celebrating three decades of excellence

october 2018 `100

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The land of plenTy

Explore Chhattisgarh—A Wild & Wondrous Adventure

the aryans Of Ladakh teMPLes By the shOre a fOreVer PLaCe sPOtLIGht dUrGa PUJa
Stunning Portraits On The Tranquility In The Towns Of Soak Your Spiritual Soul In Behind The Scenes Of The
Life Of The Drokpas Gokarna & Murudeshwar The Timelessness Of Ujjain Mega Cultural Celebration
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contents octoBER 2018

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Anchor 32
ARYANS OF THE HIMALAYA
Live a day in the life of an exotic
60
A TRIP THROUGH TRIPURA
For the avid traveller, tripura has
80
IN THE FOOTSTEPS
OF THE MAHATMA
tribe of Ladakh. With an intriguing treasures of history and architecture not just Porbandar or Ahmedabad,
beginning, the Drokpas lead a that promise to make for an visit the mahatma’s ashrams in
colourful life in the stark himalaya. unforgettable journey. mumbai, Kausani, Pune and new
Delhi this Gandhi Jayanti.
40 66
CHHATTISGARH CALLING! VEGGIE WONDERS
this largely unexplored state has more people are moving towards a
much to offer with its wildlife and vegetarian lifestyle—the best kind,
waterfalls, craft and culture, legends, some say—and the growing number
food and festivals. of vegetarian eateries is testimony.

52 72
SHIVA ON THE SHORE TIME AFTER TIME
Beyond the busy beaches of Goa time stops here. Some towns
are the temple towns of Gokarna and are timeless in their breathtaking
murudeshwar—escapes for souls simplicity and surreal atmosphere. cover Photography alamy
seeking peace by the seaside. Ujjain is one of them. Location Chitrakote falls, Chhattisgarh

octoBER 2018 1
contents OCTOBer 2018

Gateway Manifesto Spotlight

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INDIA UPDATES EXPAT DIARIES A GODDESS COMES HOME
A quick roundup of what’s happening around the Caleb Friesen on the defining moment when Durga Puja is celebrated with fervour around
country as you prepare your itinerary. India became his home and what led to the the country, but nowhere is it like in the

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life-changing experience. aristocratic houses across Kolkata. Here is a
14 peek into these family celebrations.
wEEkEND bREAk 27
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We acquaint you with a few destinations not too THE DRIVING AGENDA 96
far from the metros for a short trip. How Roshun Povaiah battled the monsoon in fRAME wORk
Delhi and exchanged it for a quick road trip to Our photographer of the month, Himmat
Di

18 the Keoladeo National Park in Bharatpur. Rana, captures a ripe moment between two
CHECk-IN Pashmina goats of the Himalaya before their
Check into new hotels and resorts and find out 28 battle of the horns.
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what suits your next vacation. GUEST COLUMN

Jairaj Singh recalls his tryst with fishing,
20 tricks his father taught him and everything he
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CHECk-OUT loves about the science of catching fish.

Discover India takes a culinary journey to bring
you the best eateries from around the country. 30
/t

GUEST COLUMN
22 Kanika Sharma unravels Sant Kabir Nagar, a
PEOPLE town that signifies the saint’s outlook towards
:/

Tipriti ‘TIPS’ Kharbangar, lead vocalist and religious unification.

guitarist of Soulmate, talks to DI about how
travel influences her music.
s

23
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fULLy bOOkED
The best companion for your next travels—get
your hands on the latest books.
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explore oUr like us on Facebook

Go to facebook.com/
Follow us on instagram
Follow our visual journeys with
SoCial side... discoverindiamagazine @discoverindia.magazine

2 OCTOBer 2018
01/10/2018
A little knowledge leads to dogmatism…a
little more takes us to questioning.
While Team DI does its best to bring India to
its readers, I know that after 30 years of showcas-
CALEB FRIESEN

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ing the country’s destinations, heritage, culture A writer-photographer who sets off
and cuisine, we are still discovering India. This backpacking without any plans

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journey into India has a beginning (you know
where you started); it, though, is an endless

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exploration, perhaps difficult to complete in a
lifetime—for its many states have many colours,
its people have many moods, its food many fla-

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vours… The more you see, the more you realise
it is still unseen. This is perhaps the process
gi
of questioning. ROSHUN POVAIAH
An automotive journalist passionate
The year was 2013. The highway was bril- about cars and road trips
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liant. As was the evening sky. I had rolled down

my car window to breathe in the non-city air
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and feel the wind that carried the whistle of the

wilderness that was all around. The highway
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belonged to our car and there was not a bird or beast in sight. There was a sense of calm,
of being in a place that had been left undisturbed.
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The silence was suddenly broken with a certain sense of alarm as our driver pushed
hard against the brake pedal, bringing our car to a very dramatic sideways halt. There was
:/

a moment of irrational fear…and then I saw why the car had been brought to a stop…a JAIRAJ SINGH
wild bear, a giant of a gentleman, was crossing the road. He was in no hurry, quite the A Delhi-based journalist writes
about the science of catching fish
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evening stroll, it seemed, and while he had our attention, he more or less ignored our pres-
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ence (not entirely a bad thing, I would say). When he was across (took over 30 minutes!)
and we had our selfies, we were back on the road.
I had been uncertain a week ago this time, when I had finalised my plan of travelling
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to Chhattisgarh. You will read about the state in the pages inside, but from what I can tell
you from my experience, I’m glad I went. Now at dusk, I had an epiphany—that while
I had travelled some, I really knew very little, about India, about myself and about life.
There are no easy answers, and after five years, I still know only little; but I have become
open to experience. I would like to think that I now go more openly towards life and let KANIKA SHARMA
Travel writer with a keen
life come to me. Such is the case with travel too. interest in history

AJAY KHULLAR
Editor

OCTOBER 2018 3
 Anchor
COVER STORY

THE UNIQUE
INDIAN
India is a billion people
plus, a thousand languages,
29 states, seven union
territories, the colours
of the palette in its
land—India is a land of
uncountable travel stories.
INDIA’S FIRST TRAVEL MAGAZINE
EXPERIENCE
You could start your journey
with these experiences that
are unique to India.
Words PRIYA BALA

Editor AJAY KHULLAR

30

DIC0818-Anchor-cover story.indd
AUGUST 2018

30-31 02/08/18 5:47 pm

Deputy Art Director MUKESH KUMAR
Assistant Art Director SACHIN JAIN
Assistant Editor STUTI AGARWAL
Senior Sub-Editor SUSHMITA SRIVASTAV
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National Head RISHI KAUL [email protected]

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02/08
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 Contributors

SUPRIYA SEHGAL SUGATO TRIPATHY ANURAG MALLICK & AMAN CHOTANI

WRITER WRITER/PHOTOGRAPHER PRIYA GANAPATHY PHOTOGRAPHER
With credits in over 30 Sugato is an ex-banker WRITERS/PHOTOGRAPHERS Aman is an award-

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Lonely Planet guidebooks, and currently a B-school After 15 years in the winning photographer
Supriya is addicted to professor and travel media, Anurag and based in New Delhi,

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India. Happily travelling writer/photographer. Priya now lead a life of and has been published
for 250 days in a year, His idea of nirvana is to travel. ‘Loosely based’ in in National Geographic,
she has abandoned the vegetate on the beach Bengaluru, they run Red India Today, Outlook

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idea of calling any one or wander aimlessly in Scarab Travel & Media. Traveller, among many
city her home. She’s the mountains. In this They write for leading other publications. In this

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travelled multiple times issue, he travels through publications and have issue, he documents the
to Chhattisgarh, and in Tripura—the northeastern authored several books. intriguing lifestyle of the
this cover story, she state steeped in history Here, the couple finds Drokpa tribe of Ladakh
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tells readers why they and culture. out why thousands flock in a compelling
must too. the temple town of Ujjain photo essay.
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PRIYA BALA PARIKSHIT RAO BINDU GOPAL RAO SUGATO MUKHERJEE

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WRITER WRITER/PHOTOGRAPHER WRITER WRITER/PHOTOGRAPHER

Priya is a food and travel Parikshit is a Bindu is a freelance An award-winning
writer whose work allows photographer and writer based in photographer and writer,
her to indulge her biggest writer with a decade Bengaluru, who believes Sugato has contributed
passions—writing, of experience in the that writing provides a to Al Jazeera, National
travelling and seeking out media landscape. His unique opportunity to Geographic Traveller
great food experiences. work on travel, food and meet a variety of people, and the Yale University
She is especially excited architecture has while exploring new Journal, among others.
about exploring the been featured in a range and unique places. On In this issue, he takes a
hidden corners of India. of publications. Here, the birth anniversary of peek into the aristocratic
In this guide to weekend he travels to the coastal Mahatma Gandhi, she homes of Kolkata that
breaks, she explores towns of Gokarna and walks us through his welcome Goddess Durga
Dimapur, and the town Murudeshwar in search ashrams across every year in their own
of Shirdi. of tranquility. the country. unique ways.

OCTOBER 2018 5
 Anchor
There’s so much to explore when it
comes to Indian cuisine. Kudos!
COVER STORY

The Pilgrim’s Progress

For centuries, the devout of every faith have stepped out to seek
God—as a ritual obligation, to perform an act of devotion, to atone for sins,
implore a grace, or seek a miracle. The reasons for pilgrimages could
MINAL RAJPUT New Delhi
be as varied as the pilgrims themselves, but every religion has places of
religious-spiritual importance that draw the pious.
Words PREETI VERMA LAL

Close To Home
The works of writers usually take
inspiration from their lives, people and

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homes. So coming up with the idea of
bringing the homes of famous writers to

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A visit to the Jim Corbett National
Park & Gurney House in Nainital,
Anchor where the famous wildlifer and
Varanasi, the ancient city on FINDING INSPIRATION writer lived, is akin to turning the
the banks of the Ganga, attracts pages of his books
the pious, the curious and the
32 SEPTEMBER 2018 salvation seekers

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DIC0918-Anchor-cover story.indd 32-33 28/08/18 8:39 pm Ruskin Bond Rabindranath Tagore Anita Desai

For The Believers

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Ours is a country of multiple religions and beliefs. It’s no wonder
then, that every year people from across the globe flock to India to
Uttarakhand and Himachal Pradesh have attracted eminent writers
through the ages. The good news is that you can visit some of the houses of
these literary legends. Or even meet the writers.
Words Abhinav Singh

seek God. And your cover story this time on the pilgrimages across
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the country can play guide to such devotees interested in religious
travel. From temples and mosques, to churches and monasteries, the Khushwant Singh Bill Aitken Pankaj Mishra
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list had it all covered and it was indeed a delightful read. Inspired, I
Photography ALAMY, GETTYIMAGES, MUNEESH TARSEM (Ruskin Bond's Photograph), WIKIPEDIA (Bill Aitken's Picture Courtsey)

70 SEPTEMBER 2018

DIC0918-Anchor-Writers Retreats.indd 70-71 28/08/18 8:57 pm

am taking my parents to southern India next month, on a pilgrimage

their readers was simply amazing. It was
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tour, and shall definitely write back to let you know how it went.
Keep up the amazing work. nice to know about where the literary
RASHI SHARMA Noida legends of our country come from. It
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was even better to read stories that

still live in these abodes in the hills. A
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simple, good read.

Back In Time visit, to relive those memories and make JOYITA DAS Kolkata
I remember going to Kodaikanal in my a few more. I can’t wait to take this
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college days and the fun of exploring trip the luxurious way this time. Also, The Last Page
wonderful pictures! Though I wait eagerly to go through all
s

Kodaikanal, or Kodai as it is lovingly

VISHNU KUMAR Mumbai your stories every month, I absolutely

Anchor called, sits pretty on a plateau of the
Western Ghats, surrounded by rolling
PIECE OF PARADISE hills and dotted with churches

The Kodai Moment

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Shrouded in a misty history lies an enchanting hill retreat where flowers and
berries grow wild, sheep graze free, forests rise tall and dark, and waterfalls create
love turning to the last page of the
A Foodie’s Dream
sweet music. Kodaikanal, with its old churches and residences, lakes and dales,

magazine, for ‘Frame Work’. I have

and a certain old-world vibe, is the balm your city soul so ardently desires.
Words & Photography SATARUPA PAUL
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Being a big foodie, regular trips to been following DI for quite some
gourmet restaurants and fine diners time now and am always amazed by
are always part of the plan when I step your selection of pictures. Introducing
out. But gorging on the local grub is various talented photographers and the
what makes me the happiest. Your best of their works, with a few words
ALAMY

48 SEPTEMBER 2018 SEPTEMBER 2018 49

latest feature described in detail how to describe the featured photograph
I can have the best of both worlds, —there is not a missing piece here. A
DIC0918-Anchor-Kodaikanal.indd 48-49 28/08/18 8:47 pm

the place on a shoestring budget. But and I couldn’t have asked for more! It budding photographer myself, I wish to
after reading your feature on the same, I was good to know that gourmet chefs contribute to this section someday.
feel like it is time to pay the city another have started going local for inspiration. SHIVANG MITTAL Dehradun

DI COORDINATES
Postal Address: Discover India, Burda Media India Pvt Ltd., 378-379 Udyog Vihar Phase IV, Gurugram—122015
Email: [email protected]
FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS Call +91-124-3083616, +91-9899414369; Email [email protected]
FOR OUR DIGITAL EDITION Magzter.com, Readwhere.com, magsonwink.net, www.jio.com, www.magazinos.com

6 OCTOBER 2018
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enter here for india

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shutterstock

A Wide-Angle Perspective & Overview Of India

Weekend Break CheCk-in & CheCk-out PeoPle Fully Booked

the Ancient city of Dimapur & Aloft Aerocity, Burma Burma, tipriti ‘tIPs’ kharbangar, Vocalist The Shooting Star, An extract
sai Baba’s shirdi elephant And co. & Monkey Bar And Guitarist of soulmate From shivya Nath’s travels
 Gateway
INDIA UPDATES

SAVE THE DATE !

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THE SACRED PUSHKAR

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Returning with its fourth edition, The Debasmita Bhattacharya and more.
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Sacred Pushkar is all set to celebrate With evocative music at the centre of
mindful living by presenting uplifting this experiential getaway, The Sacred
musical performances, healing Pushkar will provide an opportunity
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therapies, yoga and meditation to embrace Pushkar's diverse

sessions, interesting workshops, food religious, architectural, culinary and
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trails and curated heritage walks in handicraft heritage.

the timeless city of Pushkar. Some When October 12-14
of the most known and diverse Where Jaipur Ghat, Pushkar,
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performers from India and abroad Rajasthan

will be performing at the three-day Why should you go To rejuvenate
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festival. The list includes names like your body, mind and soul.
award-winning vocalist and composer Buy tickets at in.bookmyshow.
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Bombay Jayashri, Sufi singing com/events/the-sacred-pushkar/

duo Nooran Sisters, sarod player ET00079666

Words SUSHMITA SRIVASTAV Photography SHUTTERSTOCK

RAJASTHAN KABIR YATRA RANTHAMBORE CRAFT CARNIVAL

It is a six-day captivating tour of Rajasthani folk music, in and around the Let your love for traditional art forms flow free at the Ranthambore
cities of Bikaner, Jaisalmer and Jodhpur. Artistes from across the state as Craft Carnival while you create your own art pieces, buy traditional art
well as from Kutch, Malwa, Bengal, Chennai, Mumbai and Delhi will be handcrafted by local artisans, sway to folk music and dig into authentic
coming together to take up a musical voyage, dissolving the boundaries Rajasthani spreads. Try your hand at block printing on a fabric, creating
and binding all with one common love—music. The travelling music bangles, forming scented candles and more. If you want to take a quick
festival will be presenting an eclectic range of musical genres—from folk arty getaway to a place that calls out to your creativity—this is the place
to classical, abstract minimalism, electronic and acoustic improvisation. to be.
When October 2-7 When October 5-7
Where Bikaner, Jaisalmer and Jodhpur Where Shilpgram, Ramsinghpura, Sawai Madhopur, Rajasthan
Why should you go To immerse in a soulful, musical experience. Why should you go To get your hands on traditional artisan products.
Know more at www.rajasthankabiryatra.org/ What’s more While the entry fee is just `20, the activities bear no cost!

8 OCTOBER 2018
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MYSORE DASARA
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The entire city of Mysore is soaked in fervour every year during the sun goes down, for the 10 days the Maharaja’s Palace is dramatically
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10-day festival of Dasara (Dussehra). Although Dussehra is celebrated lit, and the city of palaces is transformed into a gigantic fairground.
with much fervour across the country, here it is a celebration to keep Concerts, dance performances, sporting demonstrations and cultural
alive a tradition started by the Vijayanagara kings in the 15th century. events are held all around. On the last day, the celebrations are capped
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As legends suggest, Chamundeshwari Devi, an incarnation of Goddess off with a torchlight procession.
Parvati, slew the demon king, Mahishasur, on this day at the top of the When October 10-19
Chamunda hill. Hence the festivities, celebrating the win of good over Where Mysore, Karnataka
evil, start with a procession of decorated elephants, camels and horses Why should you go To behold the sight of the glorious procession.
led by the Maharaja of Mysore to the temple on the hilltop. As the Know more at www.mysoredasara.gov.in/home/

GOBUZZINGA MOMO FESTIVAL

Think great music, exciting tipples, a venue filled with food enthusiasts from across the country
and over 300 varieties of lip-smacking momos—the world’s biggest momo festival is back in
Delhi with its fifth edition. From chocolate, vodka, kurkure, to oreo, hazelnut, roghan josh and
more, the two-day food extravaganza will be packed with interesting variants of the mouth-
watering South Asian dumpling. Bringing popular eateries and local hidden gems together under
the single peppy roof of Ansal Plaza, the GoBuzzinga Momo Festival is set to sweep foodies off
their feet once again.
When October 6-7
Where Ansal Plaza, Hudco Place, Khel Gaon Marg, Andrews Ganj Extension, New Delhi
Why should you go For the love of momos.
What’s more The festival will also have dessert carts and stalls offering other delicious foods.

OCTOBER 2018 9
 Gateway
INDIA UPDATES

TAWANG FESTIVAL
Held by the tourism department of Arunachal Pradesh, the Tawang traditional attire, turning the town into a riot of colours.
Festival is a three-day extravaganza that puts on display the richness of When October 26-29
the monastic tribes through their religious functions, traditional dances Where Festival grounds across Tawang, Arunachal Pradesh
and foods, displays of handloom crafts, documentaries, exhibitions, Why should you go For witnessing the amazing dance acts performed
adventure sports and more. It begins with a tradition called Sebang—a by the monks.
rally of monks that starts off from the Tawang Monastery, declaring the Did you know Tawang Festival won the title of the ‘Best Cultural
festival open. Prayer flags adorn the narrow lanes and people dress up in Tourism Festival’ at the Arunachal Tourism Awards last year.

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Words SUSHMITA SRIVASTAV

10 OCTOBER 2018
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BATHUKAMMA

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From a regular village celebration
to becoming the state festival of
Telangana, Bathukamma has grown

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into a massive carnival today.
Devoted to Goddess Maha Gauri (an
incarnation of Goddess Durga), the
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flower festival is celebrated with much
fanfare for nine days by women who
scour for unique flowers to make the
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floral arrangement that resembles

a‘gopuram’ (temple spire), take trips
to village ponds for festivities and sing
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and dance to old folk songs. A special

prasad made of wheat flour and
jaggery, called maleeda, along with
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five traditional rice dishes are offered

to the goddess and the arrangements
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are immersed in water before dusk on

the last day.
When October 10-18
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Where Hyderabad, Telangana

Why should you go To immerse in
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the cultural ethos of the state.

Please note Since it is a religious
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affair, dress accordingly and

maintain decorum.
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INDIA FILM PROJECT SEASON 8 Challenge will have over 35,000 filmmakers making 1,500 short
films, in a duration of 50 hours, two weeks prior to the event. And
Asia’s largest content creation festival, India Film Festival (IFP) is all if that wasn’t enough, exciting workshops and activities like Short
geared up to host its eighth season with the primary aim of building Scriptwriting Challenge with Terribly Tiny Tales, Voice
a community of content creators across the varying
Words SUSHMITA SRIVASTAV Photography ALAMY

Your Words Challenge with Kommune and Poster

forms of art. Expect conversations and activities across Design Challenge with The Souled Store are bound to
films, digital, literature and music with celebrated keep you hooked throughout.
as well as potential content creators. It is all about
creating, collaborating and celebrating content. When October 13-14
Lined up for two days are over 60 fun sessions that Where Nehru Centre, Worli, Mumbai, Maharashtra
will feature filmmakers, YouTubers, actors, writers, Why should you go For a fun-filled weekend with
musicians, critics and other familiar faces from the great conversations, network opportunities, delicious
industry, including Bhuvan Bam, Biswapati Sarkar, Prajakta Koli, food, and engaging workshops!
Aditi Mittal and many more. IFP’s flagship 50 Hour Filmmaking Register at indiafilmproject.co

OCTOBER 2018 11
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WEEKEND BREAK

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DIMAPUR THE GEM OF NAGALAND

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imapur, Nagaland’s largest to the rulers of Dimapur. The largest Lotha, Chakhesang, Sumi, Sangtam,
city, is also its best connected. among these stands at an impressive Ao, Rengma Pochury and Zeliang.
While many visitors to the height of 17 feet and is said to be Whether you enjoy traipsing through
northeastern state use Dimapur as a dedicated to Makardhwaj, in whose the ruins of once great cities or wish to
hopping off point for other destinations, time the Dimasa Kachari kingdom saw relax amidst nature, Dimapur will tick
its rich past and natural attractions make the pinnacle of its glory. Another group the boxes.
it an ideal spot for a short break in this of stone monuments represents the
Words PRIYA BALA Photography ALAMY and SHUTTERSTOCK

part of the country. 17 royal clans of the Dimasa Kachari NAVIGATOR

Built on the banks of the Dhansiri aristocracy, as historians refer to them. Getting there You can fly into Dimapur from Kolkata
river, Dimapur was the ancient capital While the 13th-century Kachari and several cities in the East. Dimapur is also Nagaland’s
of the influential Dimasa Kachari ruins are a top attraction in Dimapur, it only rail connection.
community. This seat of power was is also blessed with an abundance Stay There aren’t too many large hotels in Dimapur.
created as a walled city, built mainly of of natural beauty. The Rangapahar Your best accommodation choices would be homestays
bricks. Today, you can see unique relics Reserve Forest, for instance, is home and guest houses such as the Oasis Guest House which
from the past which provide glimpses to an array of medicinal plants and is quite close to the centre of town.
into the power and prosperity of a affords opportunities for wildlife Shop Dimapur is a great place to go shopping for
previous era. Archaeological finds in sightings. While in Dimapur, you can indigenous tribal handicrafts. Pick up artefacts in wood,
Dimapur include a series of monoliths. explore the tribal culture of the place cane and bamboo. They make for great souvenirs. The
These are believed to be memorials inhabited by tribes such as the Angami, rustic handlooms are also worth checking out.

14 OCTOBER 2018
 Checklist
• Explore the ruins The Kachari • Go shopping If you have a liking
ruins, as they are known, draw most for ethnic art and crafts, then you
visitors to Dimapur. The intriguing must go to the Diezephe Craft Village,
monoliths that are part of the cluster located 13 km from Dimapur. The craft
of ruins provide a glimpse into a rich village is where skilled weavers and
and unique past in this remote part craftsmen from the region gather to
of the country. This is a must-do for showcase their art. Promoted by the
history buffs. Nagaland Handloom and Handicrafts
Development Corporation Limited, the
• Visit a waterfall The Triple Falls
craft centre is a platform mainly for
in Seithekima Village, not far from
the Tenyimei community known for
Dimapur, are one of the town’s most
their excellent woodcarving, bamboo
popular attractions. This impressive
and cane work. Here you will also find
natural feature comprises three major
some fabulous handloom products.
streams rushing down in a cascade
from a height of 280 feet. They cascade • See the science centre The
down into a natural pool in a beautiful Nagaland Science Centre is a good
setting surrounded by pretty foliage. place for a family outing, especially
The Triple Falls are also a preferred for children. Located near the Naga
spot for keen trekkers. Arcade, it is one of Dimapur’s most-
• Spot wildlife The Rangapahar visited attractions. The Nagaland

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Reserve Forest is a must-see for Science Centre comprises three
wildlife enthusiasts. This wooded galleries—there is one called Our
expanse spread across nearly 50 acres Senses, another named Children’s

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is known for the multitude of medicinal Corner and one section that offers
plants found here. Bird-watchers Fun Science. From the Tara Mandal
can spot many species unique to the you can get close-up views of astral
bodies scattered across the night

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region. It also offers you sightings of
bear, deer, wild goat and more. Make sky. A science park is also part of
a trip also to Dimapur’s Zoological Park the centre and encourages children
to learn scientific facts in a

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that aims to send out a conservation
message to visitors. playful environment.
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(Clockwise from left) The
13th-century Kachari ruins are home to a
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series of intriguing monoliths; lush green

lands and swaying trees all around add to
Dimapur's enchanting beauty; the largest
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city of Nagaland is known for the rich

tribal experience it offers
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OCTOBER 2018 15
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WEEKEND BREAK

SHIRDI ABODE OF A SAINT

F
or a travel experience that and took up residence in the Kandoba associated with the life of Sai Baba
involves prayer and the temple. He then spent the next and these are all must-visit places for
opportunity to see the faith 50 years teaching and advocating his the devout.
and devotion of thousands, Shirdi philosophy of ‘one God for all’ and Besides the many shrines and
is a favoured place of pilgrimage. working to alleviate the suffering of places of worship, visitors can also visit

Words PRIYA BALA Photography SHUTTERSTOCK and ALAMY

The small town in Ahmednagar in all people. Even today, Shirdi is a the Dixit Wada Museum, Adul Baba
Maharashtra is now a major religious place to see the equalising effect of Cottage and Dwarkamai.
destination in the country and attracts his teachings, as people from different
devotees from across India as well walks of life, economic statuses and NAVIGATOR
as abroad. religious beliefs gather to soak in Getting there You can drive to Shirdi from both Pune

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An easy drive from both Mumbai the sacred atmosphere that appears and Mumbai.
(240 km) and Pune (190 km), Shirdi to pervade the very air here. They Stay Given the number of pilgrims Shirdi attracts,

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is the revered former abode of Sai all come with the purpose of paying there is no dearth of accommodation. Many fall in the
Baba who spent much of his life obeisance at the shrine of Sai Baba budget range. Check out the Sterling Shirdi.

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here. Though the life of Sai Baba is a and to seek his blessings. Scattered Travel Tip This is a pilgrimage destination and
mystery in itself, it is believed that he across Shirdi, which was once an appropriate decorum should be followed vis-à-vis attire
came to Shirdi at the tender age of 16 unassuming hamlet, are various spots and conduct.

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16 OCTOBER 2018
 (Clockwise from left) The
lush lawn surrounding the
Sai Baba temple in Pandurang
Kshetra Hadshi makes a great
picnic spot; golden brass bells
at Shirdi temple; a statue of
Sai Baba

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Checklist

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• Watch a weekly ritual

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The palki procession is one of
Shirdi’s most sacred rituals and
commemorates Sai Baba’s journey
from Dwarkamai Masjid to Chavadi.

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It’s a tradition that has carried
on for nearly a century and if you
are in Shirdi on a Thursday, you
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must watch this spectacle. Baba’s
beautifully adorned portrait is taken
from the Samadhi Mandir, where
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the procession begins, stopping at

Dwarkamai Masjid, to Chavadi. It
concludes at around 10 pm, after
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which prayers are offered to

Sai Baba.
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• Visit Lendi Baug

This is a place associated with Sai
Baba and his devotees and houses
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the samadhis of Baba's followers—

Tatya Kote Patil, Bhau Maharaj
Kumbhar, Nanavalli and Abdul
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Baba. This baug or garden is said to

have been created and watered by
the Baba himself. You cannot fail to
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feel the serenity of the spot known

as Nanda Deep, where a lamp
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burns at all hours. Neem and peepal

trees flank the marble enclosure
containing the sacred lamp.
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• Say a prayer at Chavadi

Once the tax collection office of the
village, Chavadi was frequented
by Sai Baba and he spent much of
his last year here. His followers
then converted it into a place that
accommodated pilgrims and later a
temple came up here. The temple
houses a large portrait of Sai Baba
and a bed on which he was given
his final bath.
• See the home of Laxmi
Bai Shinde
Laxmi Bai was a devotee of Sai
Baba and was with him when he
attained samadhi. Her home is now
a revered memorial and has a statue
of Laxmi Bai.
• Take a trip to Igatpuri
Picturesque Igatpuri is a short drive
from Shirdi. You can make a stop at
this town, known for its Vipassana
meditation centre.
OCTOBER 2018 17
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CHECK-IN

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ALOFT NEW DELHI AEROCITY

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THE ART OF BUSINESS!

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ntil a few years drawing in natural light along And if placing artworks your sunny siesta experience.
ago, passing by the with your attention. One step in every other corner wasn’t Re:Charge, the 24x7 gym with
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enormous Indira in and you will no longer enough, there is an entire an in-built yoga studio, offers a
Gandhi International Airport remember it is a business gallery dedicated to art that splendid view of the pool with
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meant driving through a hotel—the property stays stocks up on antiques and its massive art wall that you can
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piece of grassland. Today, the true to its brand statement, retro finds (think Bollywood gaze at while working out.
space has transformed into ‘Different by Design’. A funky posters, vintage bikes and After all that indulgence,
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a 45-acre urban oasis—with painting hangs here, a retro Madhubani paintings). Once make your way to the Korean
luxury hotels, high-end malls art piece sits there…a vintage done feeding your artistic soul, spa, ‘K’, with its range of
and numerous office spaces. car is parked in one corner, make your way to Nook, their therapeutic treatments to rid
What started as a transit a gramophone placed in the airy all-day dining restaurant you of the last bits of weariness.
hub has begun to bloom other—the lobby looks no with elaborate buffets and live Immersed deep in tasteful
into a preferred choice for less than an artist’s canvas. cooking stations that follows design with a lively vibe
leisure, and the hotels here Grouped under the categories the farm-to-table concept. The through its curated art, music
at Aerocity are keeping up of Club, Twin, Studio and signature bar lounge of the and style, Aloft in Aerocity is
with the change. Aloft New Residence Apartment, all the Aloft brand, WXYZ, stirs up sure to tickle all your senses.
Delhi Aerocity by Marriott 253 state-of-the-art rooms in cocktails all day long and holds —Sushmita Srivastav
International, the newest the hotel come designed with live performances to spice up
addition to the scene, is one a bold contemporary tonality your evenings. Designed for NAVIGATOR
of the few that decided not to and are equipped with features those on the move, Re:Fuel Go there for For the love of art
and aesthetics
play by the rules of the staid like mini-bar, cosy orthopaedic is the 24x7 grab-and-go outlet Address Asset 5-B, Indira Gandhi
business hospitality spaces. duvets and vanity amenities. that comes with gourmet meals, International Terminal 3 Road,
Arrive at the location and The meeting rooms and the bespoke cappuccinos and more. Aerocity, New Delhi
Reservations (011) 4565 0000
you will find yourself standing ballroom are designed well Splash is another lounge set up
Website www.marriott.com/hotels/travel/
before a seven-floored building to meet the requirements of right next to the infinity pool delal-aloft-new-delhi-aerocity/
with French window panes, social and corporate gatherings. in case you feel like elevating Tarrif `6,999 plus taxes

18 OCTOBER 2018
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CHECK-OUT

BURMA BURMA
Asian, Vegetarian & A Delight
Address Mall of India, Sector 18, Noida
Reservations (0120) 6296 251
Timings Noon to 3.30 pm, 6.45 pm to 11 pm on weekdays,
noon to 11 pm on weekends
Meal for two `1,500 plus taxes

I t wasn’t long ago that I sampled That dish alone was therefore

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my first bowl of Khao Suey— enough for me to look forward to a
the silken noodles soaked in meal at Burma Burma, and I knew

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creamy coconut curry, spilling it would define my experience
over with golden garlic, roasted of dining at their newly opened

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peanuts, caramelised onions, branch. What can I say…it was
spring onions, roasted chilli everything I hoped it would be!
powder and just a dash of lemon. The Burmese Khao Suey, with its

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The Asian potion is still quite distinct turmeric coconut curry,
a mystery to me, but suffice it is quite an experience; and while
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is to say that it has me under a I don’t think I needed anything
spell. I have ordered the meal- else after a bowl of it, the menu
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in-itself every single time, in any offered plenty.

restaurant where they deign to Let’s skip the soups on this
put it on the menu. one. The Lotus Stem Crisps and
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MONKEY BAR
From The Streets Of Kolkata
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Reservations Delhi (011) 4109 5155; Mumbai (022) 2600 5215;

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Kolkata (033) 4060 6446; Bengaluru (080) 4411 4455

Timings Noon to 12.30 am
Meal for two `1,500 plus taxes
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D ussehra is an enchanting time across the country, with every region

having its own unique celebration. Among the most iconic festivities
is the Durga Pujo in Kolkata and the food that surrounds it. This year,
those in other parts of India—Delhi, Mumbai and Bengaluru, to be specific,
in addition to Kolkata, of course—get to taste a selection of Kolkata
favourites across Monkey Bar outlets as part of a food promotion titled Next
Stop Kolkata.
The dishes are a judicious mix of the city’s history and geography, drawing
from the various communities that settled in the city or passed through, from
the Mughals to the Gujarati and Marwari traders, the British, Chinese and
Tibetans. As each community congregated in one area, it became instrumen-
tal in birthing a unique snack, street food or dish. Home chef, Iti Misra and
Monkey Bar head chef, Dheeraj Varma pounded the streets to come up with
a unique selection that is bound to take the taste buds on a spectacularly
tickling journey.
It’s a good idea to set the tone with the Vardaan Market Moong Daal Pak-
odi Chaat, a piquant take on the North Indian chaat with deep-fried moong dal

20 OCTOBER 2018
 ELEPHANT & CO. GASTROPUB
An Elephantastic Experience
Address Shop No. 5, Ground Floor, Sai Heritage Survey No.131/1B/1,
Baner, Pune
Reservations + 91 98206 67719
Timings 12.30 pm to 12.30 am
the Tohu Mash (an intriguing the Seabuckthorn Mary (cooler) to Meal for two `1,400 (with alcohol) plus taxes
besan batter stew) with paratha wash all that deliciousness down.
are a great start to the meal, and More Khao Suey would be

gz
the steamed buns (with every a good end to the meal if you
single filling) are perfect balls of ask me (the desserts were much

Ma
fluffy goodness. And although too sweet for my liking), though
salads may not be on top of most the Rangoon Baked Milk,

l_
people’s lists, a special mention with all its plating flourish, is a
must be made of the Tea Leaf fair choice. The service needs
Salad, with its tea-infused flavour some improvement; that and

ta
and crispy broad beans. I may the soups are the only thing
have forgotten about it under my I can fault at Burma Burma,
gi
Khao Suey spell, but it surely is but with its strategic place in
a course to add. The sticky rice the mall and unique menu,

W
Di

grilled in banana leaves is a must- booking a table prior to a meal hat better way to start a lazy Sunday morning than sharing
try too, especially the brown onion may soon be necessary. delicacies and stories with loved ones over brunch? We
and roasted chilli variation, and —Stuti Agarwal decide to visit the newly opened Elephant & Co. Gastropub in
e/

the commercial hub of Pune—Baner. With its chilled-out and

social vibe, Elephant & Co. embodies the traits of its namesake.
.m

Amid the sounds of live music and peals of laughter, we

browse the menu and decide to launch our culinary journey
/t

dumplings doused in khatta-meetha chutney and curd. It was followed with the Devil’s Wrapped Chicken, Lemon Butter Garlic Fish
with the famous Vivekanand Park Ghooghni, a mild peas curry topped and the Tangra-style Pork Chilli. While the fish is creamy,
with potato salli and served with masala brioche. The Beadon Fish Roll,
:/

delicately flavoured and easy on the taste buds, the pork is fiery
a slightly smoked fillet of Kolkata Bhekti stuffed with curried shrimps— but outstandingly delicious for those who can handle the heat.
breaded, fried and served with Kasundi mustard spiked salaad, is utterly Surprisingly, the Devil’s Wrapped Chicken turns out to be the
s

delicious. Girish Park-er Shoitan Deem, reminiscent of scotch eggs, is dark horse. Not that there’s much that could go wrong with
tp

an egg encased in shammi kebab mince and deep-fried, the result being some bacon and cheese wrapped with tender chicken strips and
a beautiful ballet of textures and flavours. Incredibly wholesome and tossed in a chilli mustard barbecue sauce, but the unusual amal-
ht

delicious is the Elgin Road Pork Momo, steamed and pan-fried Tibetan gamation of textures and flavours simply wins us over.
dumplings, served with a spicy, smoked chutney broth that is both un- For the mains we sample the Dosa Waffle with Chicken
usual and satisfying. The city’s nod to its Mughal history comes in the Chettinad, Champagne Risotto with Mushroom, Mutton Sukka
form of Esplanade’s Mughlai Porota with its spicy keema filling, served on Crispy Pita along with some Eco-style Patrani Machhi. If
with paanch-phoron baby potatoes. The wonderfully mild but intense someone had told me that dosa batter made for great waffles,
Chitpur Road Chicken Rezala is a plate inspired by Awadhi flavours and I would never believe it. And that’s why the combination of a
served with soft, triangular, layered rotis. To add to the list is the College warm crisp dosa waffle, with the hearty chicken preparation, will
Street Hing-er Kochuri, crisp urad daal-stuffed kochuris served with a certainly have me returning to Elephant & Co. for more. While
spicy potato curry and sweet-and-sour red pumpkin. Add to the list the the risotto is perfection, the patrani machhi that comes smoth-
Tiretti Bazaar Prawn Dumpling, inspired by the city’s Chinese migrants, ered with a coconut chutney takes a little getting used to. The
and the Lake Market Chicken Kabiraji, mince chicken patties with a mutton is cooked just right and flavoured well, but I can’t deny a
frilly egg coating. part of me would prefer the regular neer dosa with it. We choose
Amidst this delectable selection, it is easy to forget Monkey Bar’s to end with some Flourless Chocolate Cake with its big scoop
reputation for drinks, but the street food has inspired a few of these as of vanilla ice-cream. Smooth, gooey and bitter-sweet, the cake is
well. The quintessential puchka comes as the Puchka Paaani Capriojka, rich but not heavy. Appropriate not just for luxurious brunches,
with a twist of vodka, Gondhoraj lemon and fresh mint. Piara Peara is a the restaurant is perfect for a drink or a quick meal. Just one
guava drink spiked with tequila and tabasco, served in a chili-rimmed word of caution, when dining at Elephant & Co., come with an
glass, while Thaanda Cha is Darjeeling tea with vodka and spices. elephantine appetite. Trust me, you’ll need it.
—Anita Rao Kashi —Rama Ahuja

OCTOBER 2018 21
 Gateway
PEOPLE

STILL GOT THE BLUES

Tipriti ‘TIPS’ Kharbangar, the vocalist and guitarist of blues rock band Soulmate,
talks to Discover India about completing 15 years in the Indian music scene, her love for
her hometown, Shillong, and how travel shapes her music and work.

From starting as a home-grown ask for something different. But that

blues band to performing the is only for certain occasions. We
world over, take us through the are most at home playing the blues
journey of Soulmate. without any outside influence.

gz
We started out in 2003. That was
15 years ago! There wasn’t really Rudy and you keep coming

Ma
an independent music scene in India back to the Northeast for
then. We (Rudy and I) played a few performances. What is it like
shows in and around Shillong as to perform among your people

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a duo and then we decided to hire now as global artistes?
session musicians to back us up We travel a lot for gigs. Since
on bass and drums. That’s when almost all of our performances are

ta
Soulmate came into being. We outside the Northeast, it is always a
recorded our first album SHILLONG wonderful feeling to perform for our
gi
and then, we stepped out of the own home-grown fans. Surprisingly,
city with the help of friends like we are better known outside our
Vijay Nair, the late Kiran Sant and hometown! It’s only recently, with
Di

late Amit Saigal. The fact that we the help of social media, that we
produced our own songs and also began to be known among the locals.
that we were a blues/blues rock band
e/

made quite a difference. Soon, we Tell us a little bit about ‘your

found ourselves holding regular gigs India’ (growing up, memories of
at pubs, clubs and festivals in Delhi, places, people…)
.m

Mumbai and Bengaluru, and later, all Since I was born in Shillong my
around India. Organisers got familiar outlook of things has been greatly
/t

with the fact that we drew in a crowd shaped by the place. Its forest-
of both young and old wherever covered hills have taught me the
we played. It was good for their importance of respecting nature. As
:/

business, it still is. Then, we went to compared to the metro cities of India,
the United States in 2007. I feel fortunate to belong to a part of
the country where life is not as hectic
s

Talking about 2007, how does and hot!

tp

it feel to be the only blues band

that represented India at the Have you ever travelled solo in
International Blues Challenge? India? Share a memory with us…
ht

It was sure a good feeling back Yes, I actually have had a number
then…a sense of self-achievement of solo trips. Most memorable is
more than anything else. But what the time when I had the pleasure
meant the most to us was that we of performing a number of gigs in
were making a kind of pilgrimage to Delhi, Bengaluru and Mumbai with
the ‘Home of the Blues’. the late Karan Joseph ‘Madfingers’.
It was a special time for me as I got
Coming from the northeastern to connect with such a beautiful soul
city of Shillong, how have your and a great musician.
Indian roots been an influence in
your music? Tell us a travel story that African-American woman coming up I have travelled across the globe,
Our songs are actually universal. inspires you. to me and asking where I was from and yet, no cuisine in the world can
Even though we are from Shillong, At the age of 24, I stepped into and when I told her India, she asked, measure up to the joy that I get while
our words and tunes happen to America to compete at the IBC “Oh, Indiana?” I said, “No, India… digging into my local cuisine. My
touch people anywhere we perform. (International Blues Challenge). We where the Taj Mahal is.” And her favourite food hub is a place called
Our songs don’t really have that were the first blues musicians to have response was, “Girl, your soul is from IewDuh—a vibrant marketplace in
‘Indian’ feel to them, they appeal to represented India on an international the Mississippi!” That, for me, was Shillong, where you get the best of
everyone. It’s only in the recent past platform. I remember how surprised really an awe-inspiring moment. vegetables, meat and spices.
that we started incorporating Khasi the people were to hear of a band
folk music into our performances from India playing such an authentic Your favourite cuisine and your —Interviewed by
after festival organisers began to blues track. I also remember an go-to place in India for it? Sushmita Srivastav

22 OCTOBER 2018
 Gateway
FULLY BOOKED

THE LAST TOWN

W
e arrived in the pind faces as I crossed them and chatted hundred-odd kilometres to the border;
(village) of Ghallu just in my half-baked Punjabi about the they’ll be good guides, he promised, as
as the sun was rising weather, the fruit trees and the rain one of them offered us home-made lassi.
from behind fields of last night. Standing in Pakka Chisti, the last
blossoming white cotton, creating the As I walked through the cotton fields, Indian town before the Sadqi border,
illusion of melting snow. The eucalyptus the aroma of wet earth that wafted sent my heart racing. The people here live
trees and fruit orchards seemed to have through the breeze reminded me of A.R. under the constant threat of having to vacate
brightened into many shades of green Rahman’s music...this must be the mitti the town overnight, should trouble stir up
after the heavy rain the previous night ki khushbu (the aroma of our soil) he often at the border, Rajbir told us matter-of-
and birds seemed to be chirping more sings about. factly as he twisted his long moustache.

gz
merrily. Our home for the next few days As morning turned into afternoon, But that wasn’t something that was
was a humble house on a grand 400- we found ourselves squeezed into apparent on the faces of the locals as we

Ma
acre citrus fruit farm, and our caretaker a large van to see a dramatized stand-off accepted a farmer’s invite to tea, and as
and host was Rajbir, a hefty man with a between Indian and Pakistani soldiers I later followed two young girls, on their

l_
thick Punjabi accent. He seemed a little at the Sadqi border. Since my friend insistence, to their house to meet their
intimidating at first, but breaking the and I were paying for the ride, Rajbir mother over another cup of tea. Each
ice came naturally to him. After heartily had taken the liberty to invite many family has its stories, but the ease with

ta
greeting us at the Abohar train station, of his neighbours from the pind who which an outsider could become familiar
he immediately offered that we drive his had never had the chance to travel the with the family’s history, jokes and
gi
beaten-down jeep to the farm which, for politics in the span of a few minutes felt
the sake of survival, our drowsy selves unique to Punjab.
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politely declined. On our way out, I fell in step with an

The pind was less than an hour elderly farmer and asked him what it had
from the busy city of Abohar in the been like to spend his life, knowing that
e/

Ferozepur district of Punjab and just he might need to leave his house and
over nine hours from the busier city of farm at literally any moment.
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Delhi; mornings here began without We live in transit, he said. We think we

alarm clocks and car horns. Men pumped can control our circumstances, but really,
/t

water from the well, kids strode along what we can control is our spirit.
THE SHOOTING STAR
with school bags and women walked Author Shivya Nath
And so it was. In the pind of Pakka
with baskets strapped to their heads to Chishti, given its isolated location and
:/

Publisher Penguin Random

collect cotton from the fields. Whatever House India proximity to the border, life was to be
challenges their days were filled with, 201 pages; `299 lived as if in transit, as if this day were
s

they didn’t wear them on their morning the last. The way each of us was possibly
tp

meant to live.
The border itself filled me with a
Shivya Nath cycling in the
ht

rugged terrain of Spiti

grim sadness. On either side were a
small group of civilians almost exactly
alike, cheering their soldiers during the
face-off, but it didn’t have a sports-like
zeal or spirit of competition. To me,
the cheering felt laced with a sense of
vengeance, a desire to defeat the other
side, an animosity bred into us since
childhood by our textbooks and media.
My sadness stemmed from knowing
that I couldn’t walk across that imaginary
line, into a land and culture that we
had shared just a few decades ago. But
no matter, despite my passport and
visa hurdles, I pledged in those grim
moments that one day I will.
Excerpted with permission from
Penguin Random House India.

OCTOBER 2018 23
 ce
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2018 `10
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VOL. 31,
NO. 6

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JUNE

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2018

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MoUnTa Of Uttarakhand Reason
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GoD’s own t Makes Kera Make For
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In Gujarat Rich In Art

29/05/
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Lost In Time
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SHUTTERSTOCK

Travel Experiences, Narratives & Tips From The Best

EXPAT DIARIES THE DRIVING AGENDA GUEST COLUMN GUEST COLUMN

How India Became Home, A Rain-Fed Drive For Birding Catch And Release—The One Town, Three Religions,
During The Time Of Flood In The Keoladeo National Park Joy Of Catching A Fish One Saint—Sant Kabir Nagar
 CA LEB FR IES EN EXPAT DIARIES

AND INDIA BECAME

MY HOME

gz
Ma
M
y 31st day in India came to a close as I watched As I latched the train door closed, I knew that in order to

l_
Uttar Pradesh pass me by from a moving train. keep the promise that I’d just made to myself, I would need to
Amidst the rhythmic click-clack of the wheels do away with the walls, gates and locks that I’d hidden behind
passing over rail joints and the muted chatter of in other countries. There is a direct correlation between the

ta
General Class passengers sitting on the floor of the connection personal growth that we derive from being abroad and the pro-
corridor, ’60s Hindi music floated through the empty streets to tection that we employ to defend ourselves from the same. If we
gi
meet me where I sat on the train’s doorstep. It was at that pre- don’t immerse ourselves in the places where we live, we won’t
cise moment that I felt India beckoning me closer, welcoming know them, and if we don’t know them, we can’t expect to feel at
Di

me to stay, offering me the opportunity to write a new chapter of home in them.

my life. As I latched the train door closed, I promised myself that Of course, I didn’t actually expect to literally immerse myself
e/

I would call India home some day. in India, but on my 365th day here, that’s exactly what hap-
How long does it take to call a place home? For some, a year pened. Upon hearing about the flooding in Kerala, my girlfriend
.m

is ample, especially if the foreign and I made the spontaneous deci-

country shares similarities with their sion to travel to the west coast on our
IF WE DON’T IMMERSE
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country of origin. Unsurprisingly, scooty. After three days, a flooded

however, many expats never feel at
OURSELVES IN THE road in Thrissur stopped us from
:/

peace outside of their homeland; in continuing any farther. It was at the

the absence of naturally occurring PLACES THAT WE LIVE water’s edge that locals welcomed
IN, WE WON’T KNOW
s

familiarity, they actively seek out and us aboard their canoe. Naturally, we
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surround themselves with people, accepted their invitation without

places and things that help them to THEM, AND IF WE hesitation. I took off my shoes, picked
forget just how far from home they DON’T KNOW THEM, up my girlfriend (much to the amuse-
ht

really are.
On the whole, the latter is true of
WE CAN NEVER ment of the crowd around us), and
began wading through the floodwater.
the expat communities in which I was EXPECT TO FEEL AT After placing her down inside of the
raised. My private international school HOME IN THEM makeshift vessel, I climbed aboard
friend groups consisted mainly of oil and we began our journey towards
kids, mining kids, army kids and very Cheruchenam, a village on a hill that,
wealthy local kids. When we did leave our affluent neighbour- as a result of the flooding, had become an island. Our captain,
hoods and gated compounds, it was in the back seats of chauf- Srilal, pushed us through the muddy water with a bamboo pole.
feured cars. My life was a blur of cinemas, malls, exclusive par- Fellow passengers engaged us with their conversation in broken
ties, restaurants and hotels. Dirty fingers tapping on the window English and casually described the lives that they’d been leading
at red lights brought us down to earth every now and again, but since the flood began. It was at that precise moment, floating
our drivers knew to keep the doors locked, and by the time we’d through a natural disaster, surrounded by the strong, friendly
arrived at our destination, the real world was back where we faces of Keralite flood victims, that India became my home.
wanted it—out of sight and out of mind. We shielded ourselves
from the countries that we lived in. Home was where we had Caleb is a Canadian photographer who is happiest when he’s completely and
come from, not where we were. utterly lost, with nothing but his camera and curiosity to guide him.

26 OCTOBER 2018
 ROS H UN POV A IA H THE DRIVING AGENDA

WHEN PLANS GET

WATERED DOWN

gz
Ma
T
he rains can wreak havoc on the best made plans low the flyover, if you are taking this route). Signage isn’t very

l_
for a weekend road trip. Those looking to head clear, so do use the GPS—either the maps on your smartphone
out of Delhi in the latest rainy season may have or what I call the “general public service”, asking anyone and
faced this predicament. With landslide warnings for everyone for directions.

ta
Uttarakhand and Himachal, and most wildlife sanctuaries shut, Bharatpur is a straight drive of about an hour from this
it left us with only a handful of destinations in the plains for a point, but the roads are still narrow and not well-surfaced, so
gi
quick getaway. the going will be slow. Then there are chances of getting stuck
Yet, cloudy skies or not, for an avid traveller there’s never a in jams in a couple of the small towns along the route. On our
Di

dearth of places to run away to from the national capital, even last trip there, we had to navigate narrow village roads, even
if you have just a day’s time. One such place is the Keoladeo driving through a shallow pond at one point, all because a truck
e/

National Park in Bharatpur, Rajasthan, which is about 220 km had overturned and blocked the road ahead.
from Delhi, with a leisurely four hours of driving, depending The other route you can pick for your drive to Bharatpur is
.m

on the route you pick. the old NH2 that goes via Faridabad
The Keoladeo National Park, and Palwal to Mathura. If you
CLOUDY SKIES OR
/t

formerly a wetland hunting ground thought the previous route sounded

for the maharajas and the British, is NOT, THERE’S NEVER tedious, this route has a lot more
:/

now a bird sanctuary home to hun- traffic and is narrower, so the Yamuna
dreds of bird species, both resident A DEARTH OF PLACES Expressway proves to be quicker.
TO RUN AWAY TO
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and migratory. For those who want When you finally do arrive at
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to indulge in a spot of birdwatching, Bharatpur, you have several resorts

it’s a year-round destination, but the
FROM THE NATIONAL just a few hundred metres away from
best season is between October and CAPITAL. ONE the Keoladeo National Park main
ht

March, when many water birds come SUCH PLACE IS THE gate. You can leave your vehicle here
out to play. and opt for bicycles to go into the
Getting to Bharatpur is a fairly KEOLADEO NATIONAL sanctuary. A ride through the sanctu-
simple drive, or not, depending on PARK IN BHARATPUR ary won’t take more than a couple of
how adventurous you are feeling. If hours, but if you are keen on birding,
you have a vehicle that can handle it could take all day. Sometimes,
high-speed drives, pick the Yamuna Expressway out of Delhi, you can chance upon sambar, nilgai, even pythons in the park,
heading towards Mathura. It’s a straight, albeit boring, route till but the Siberian crane and flocks of painted storks are sights to
you reach the Mathura toll plaza, after which you will need to watch out for in Bharatpur.
get off the expressway and into Mathura town. If you do have more than a day to spare, you could also add
This is where things can turn ugly. The roads are narrow, Fatehpur Sikri and Agra to your travel plans. Or if more wildlife
and the streets crowded, as you manoeuvre your way across the is your thing, then the Ranthambore Wildlife Sanctuary and
town. You will have to drive through the town on narrow roads Sariska Wildlife Sanctuary are both only three hours away.
for 15 km until you reach the old NH2 that connects Delhi
and Agra. Cross the highway and set course for Bharatpur (it’s a Roshun is an automotive journalist passionate about cars, road trips and
right turn onto NH2 and then a left barely 200 metres away, be- coffee. His idea of a holiday is not the destination, but the drive itself.

OCTOBER 2018 27
 JA IR A J S INGH GUEST COLUMN

HOOKED BY
A FISH

gz
A
Ma
bout two years ago, my father one day sat me down plugs, swivels, reels and fishing lines. Over drinks, they would
and told me that if I were truly interested in catch- sit and reminisce about previous fishing trips and adventures.

l_
ing fish, I must learn how to read the river. Up until Invariably, by five in the morning we would set off for
then, I used to feel that fishing, or angling as some Himachal Pradesh, which would take upwards of 12 hours’
people like to call it, was a sport which worked on luck and es- travel, including the lunch break. I remember my mother

ta
sentially required the skill of not getting your tackle stuck in a would whisper into our ears before we would fall asleep at
twig or rock somewhere in the middle of the river. night, allaying our anxieties about the next day’s journey, that
gi
My father, though, was serious. He wiped his spectacles, tomorrow by this time we would be in Larji, listening to
looked at the bookshelf beside the writing table in his room, the river.
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where he keeps most of his literature on fishing, and pulled Of the many things one can tell you about river fishing, it is
down a slim book on understanding trout (and how to catch most definitely not boring. Most people think it entails sitting
e/

it), telling me to go over it carefully. idly by the water with a fishing pole, waiting for the fish to
Ever since I was little, I’ve been visiting the Tirthan Valley bite. This does not happen. It requires work. It also requires
.m

in Himachal Pradesh. This was the letting go.

first time I was being told about the One of the most beautiful things
HOURS OF STANDING
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science of catching fish, which was I find about fishing is the feeling of
not based on intuition, campfire UNDER THE SUN AND wading into the water, treading care-
:/

banter and myth. fully, as the rocks on the riverbed

At home, there’s an old trunk in CLOUDS, FEELING are loose and slippery, to find dark
THE COOL MOUNTAIN
s

which lie family photographs of trips pools. Sometimes, hours can go by

tp

we would take come summer. One

photograph in particular, I remem-
BREEZE COURSING ITS and the fish don’t bite. You can’t
help feel a tinge of competitive-
ber, shows my younger brother and WAY THROUGH THE ness, or frustration if you catch
ht

I playing on the rocks. Our father VALLEY, LOST IN THE nothing. It’s natural. You just have
can be spotted up ahead, casting in to be careful not to alarm the fish.
the river. He’s wearing a grey hat, an MUSIC OF THE RIVER, If the water is clear, you can see
old T-shirt, fishing jacket and green IS MEDITATIVE the fish as clearly as the fish can
shorts. His eyes are firmly fixed on see you. Most times fishing is not
the tip of the fishing pole, which about the number of fish you net
he’s holding on to with one hand while working the reel with and take home. (Although fresh river trout is most delicious.)
the other. It’s about catch and release. Hours of standing under the sun
My father and uncle were passionate anglers. Every sum- and clouds, feeling the cool mountain breeze coursing its way
mer, they would meticulously plan their journey and we would through the valley, lost in the music of the river, is meditative.
look forward to spending our holidays beside the river. They Then suddenly you feel a tug on the line, and you see the fish
would put the fishing equipment proudly on display, before twirling and twisting, and, before you know it, the fish has
packing everything, well, the night before. Boxes of old and hooked you.
new fishing tackle would be brought down from cupboards.
Some would contain shiny silver and golden spinners of vari- The writer is a New Delhi-based journalist and author. He was the for-
ous shapes, patterns and sizes. Others would include flies, mer founding editor of DailyO, an opinion and analysis online platform.

28 OCTOBER 2018
Time to unfurl the sails again

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THE MILLIONAIREASIA INDIA

Ma
REGATTA IS BACK

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Sunshine.
Stardust. And More…

25TH & 26TH NOVEMBER 2018

PARTNERS

Contact: Nidhi Kandari +91 9899985606 | [email protected]

 K A NIK A S H A R M A GUEST COLUMN

CALLING OUT
TO KABIR

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fter Prime Minister Narendra Modi’s recent visit to next to each other, separated merely by a fence. The temple

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Maghar to lay the foundation of the Sant Kabir Acad- complex has a library that has books on Sant Kabir, his teach-
emy, I was intrigued. A small town in Uttar Pradesh, ings and more. It is also equipped with food and lodging for
Sant Kabir Nagar suddenly found its place on India’s Kabir Panthis (followers of Kabir) who visit the Samadhi. As we

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map; and just a four hours’ drive from Lucknow, I wasn’t going walked past the mazhar, towards the rear end, we reached Kabir
to miss the opportunity to explore it. Gufa, which is believed to be the meditating place for the holy
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Sant Kabir, the renowned saint whose teachings can be found saint. The complex has another small mazhar, established for the
in almost every religious text, was invited to Maghar by Nawab Sufi saint who first suggested calling the holy saint to the town.
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Bijuli Khan Pathan. The kingdom had witnessed no rain for Exploring on foot, we crossed the road and reached the
12 years, and in order to save his people, he complied with a banks of River Aami. This small pond is believed to have been
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Sufi saint who suggested extending an invitation to Kabir for a created by Guru Gorakshnath and was the lifeline of Maghar. In-
visit. He believed that the holy saint’s humble ways and prayers sufficient, the people had requested Sant Kabir’s help, and while
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would bring respite to the people. he sat meditating for abundance and
Of the belief that death in Kashi prosperity, a dark cloud drifted over,
WHAT FASCINATED ME
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(Varanasi) attains one a place in heav- and the dried river was revived. It is
en and you’re born a donkey if you
ABOUT SANT KABIR considered to be as holy as Ganga,
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die in Maghar, his disciples weren’t in but over the years has been polluted,
favour of the journey. However, the NAGAR WAS THAT and it is advised not to consume
I VISITED THREE
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saint believed that God should reside water from it anymore.

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in your heart, and so he wasted no Farther along the road is a

time in starting his journey from Kashi DIFFERENT RELIGIOUS gurudwara, which is the only one in
to Maghar. ESTABLISHMENTS, the world dedicated to a saint—Gu-
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When his time of death was near,

Sant Kabir locked himself up in a
ALL OF WHICH WERE rudwara Bhagat Kabir Ji. Still under
construction, it was established about
small cottage and told his disciples DEDICATED TO ONE five years ago and is affiliated to the
not to enter until they could no longer HOLY SAINT Golden Temple in Amritsar.
hear the chants of “Ram!”. The day It took me about three hours to
they stopped, a heavy-hearted Nawab explore Maghar. What fascinated
Bijli Khan Pathan decided to perform the last rites as per Mus- me was that I visited three different religious establishments,
lim beliefs. Vir Singh Dev, the King of Kashi, insisted that the all of which were dedicated to one holy saint. The caretakers of
last rites be done as per Hindu beliefs. Both decided to wage a each recited the same words and told me the same stories. The
war and agreed that the one victorious would have the final say. visit made me rethink the source of divinity and the essence of
Before they could commence, a divine intervention asked them karma. It helped me realise that enlightenment is not about the
to open the cottage, and instead of a body they found two flow- number of holy places you visit but about having the conviction
ers and a piece of cloth. The two kings took a flower each, and to live by one’s faith and belief.
so the Samadhi Sthal and Mazhar Kabir Sahab were established.
The Samadhi Sthal, where a temple was established in 1553, Kanika is a travel enthusiast and writer who documents interesting journeys
and the mazhar, which was established in 1518, have been built on her content portal, TravEtc.

30 OCTOBER 2018
 Anchor
G r e At i d e A s f o r t h e t r Av e l l e r

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SHUTTERSTOCk

Far From The City Hustle Lie Gokarna & Murudeshwar

curious case of drokpas GoinG VeGetarian celebratinG Gandhi traVellinG to tripura

A Peek Into The Interesting Vegetarian Eateries Have Us Learning Gandhigiri At The The Largely Unknown State
Lives Of The Drokpas Of Ladakh Considering An Alternative Diet Ashrams Of The Mahatma Abounds In Rivetting Experiences
 Anchor
PHOTO ESSAY

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Not bound by inhibitions, the

Drokpas have for centuries
led an exuberant and
merry life; of music, dance,
jewellery, flowers, and lots
and lots of barley wine
 ARYANS OF
THE HIMALAYA

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OCTOBER 2018 33
 High up in the hilly terrain of Ladakh, beyond the popular
spots of the Pangong lake, Magnetic Hills, and the monasteries,
survives what is believed to be among the oldest tribes in
India—the Drokpa. Drokpa, meaning ‘Aryans’ or ‘white-
skinned’ in Ladakhi, is a tribe of nearly 3,000 people, scattered

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across three small villages. Known to be the last of the original
Aryan race, the Drokpas are the ‘free birds’ of all surviving

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tribes, and have for centuries lived an unrestrained life soaked in

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fashion and pleasures of the flesh.
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Photography AMAN CHOTANI Words STUTI AGARWAL
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34 OCTOBER 2018
 Not too far away from the woes of the
heart, the Drokpa women, much like the
men, boast of a distinctive style—garbed
in woollen dresses that they accessorise
with intricate hand-made silver jewellery,
beads, seashells, flowers, feathers, and
goatskin capes—all to enrapture the right
mate within their tribe

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Leading a life of husbandry and
agriculture, in the midst of the apples,
grapes, walnuts, and dried apricots,
grown in the Drokpas' well tended
vegetable gardens, the men are as
attuned to fashion as their women, with
their woollen dresses over trousers,
and unusual headdresses decorated
with flowers, seashells, and coins

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36 OCTOBER 2018
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A popular theory traces the origin of the
tribe to a group of soldiers who were left
behind from Alexander's army—tall, fair,
with light coloured eyes, full lips, and
distinct brows—the Drokpas are quite
different from other tribes of Ladakh

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38 OCTOBER 2018
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 Anchor
COVER STORY

CHHATTISGARH

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CALLING! gi
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If you haven’t heard of what Chhattisgarh offers the discerning
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traveller…here is a comprehensive list. If you haven’t ventured deep

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into the heart of India…now is the time.

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Words SUPRIYA SEHGAL

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Rushing water plummetting
down onto a bed of rocks—
the Chitrakote waterfalls are
postcard-perfect

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liced off from Madhya Pradesh, Chhattisgarh
is one of the newest states of India, but one
of the oldest enclaves, thriving with ancient
traditions and customs. Weekly haats (markets),
ancient temples, dense and deep jungles,
frothing waterfalls, a well-defined spiritual
circuit and intriguing customs are some of the things that
awaken travellers to a new world. We’ve curated a list

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of some of the things that may feature as essentials for a
complete Chhattisgarh immersion, but with a destination

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as characterful as this, we’d never get ahead of ourselves to
commit that it is fully comprehensible in one trip.

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Wild At Heart
Expect an endless carpet of green no matter where you

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look. Cloaked in paddy fields, thick undergrowth and dark
forests, Chhattisgarh’s landscape is further embellished by
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shimmering rivers and sheets of water breaking the calm
drift to fall gloriously on a bed of rocks. In short, nature has
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used its most mesmerising charm in Chhattisgarh. The state’s

elegance unfolds in every new location. Despite massive
deforestation of saal trees at the hands of European settlers,
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Chhattisgarh’s forest cover can still leave you speechless.

Amongst the top national parks and sanctuaries, the canopy
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of towering trees and continuous woodlands of Kanger

Valley National Pak, Barnawapara Wildlife Sanctuary
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and Achanakmar come to mind before the others. Though

the forests are teeming with wild inhabitants, they do
not get prominence like some of the popular destinations
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in neighbouring Madhya Pradesh—much to the offbeat

traveller’s delight. Expect to see large mammals like wild
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buffaloes, tigers, wild boars and families of nimble deer in

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the tall grasslands and thick woods. Kanger Valley National

Park in Bastar is especially popular for caves filled with
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ancient stalactite and stalagmite formations.

Stunning Waterfalls
Apart from surrendering to the silence of deep forests,
you can also absorb the aura of rushing water flung over
rocky escarpments in Chitrakote, Mandawa and Tamara
Ghoomar, amongst other waterfalls. Of these, the U-shaped
Chitrakote is postcard-perfect. Watching the monsoon-
swollen Indravati river plummet 95 feet before crashing
on a rocky bed is one of the most stunning sights in the
state. A small path winds down to the base of the falls at
a distance, so you can face the white curtain of water that
falls with great flourish and pomp. Seasoned fishermen take
slim dinghies right up to the edge of the water, making the
scene even more dramatic. The other way to see the falls
from a comfortable spot are the government-run luxury
tent camps that are propped diagonally opposite the falls.
It is recommended to stay a night here, in the company of a
constant symphony of rushing water.

octoBER 2018 43
Monuments Of Wonder enthusiasts. Now in ruins, the architecture is distinct with a
Chhattisgarh has a remarkable collection of temples and mandapa, garbgriha and a spire. Inside the sanctum, idols of

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monuments that have an abiding spiritual essence. While three Tirthankaras are enshrined.
temples and Buddhist viharas built during the third and 11th

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centuries dot parts of north Chhattisgarh, it’s the abode of The Temple Of Sheorinarayan
Danteshwari Devi in Dantewada and the ruins of Barsur Sheorinarayan (Shivrinarayan) is located at the confluence of

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that hold sway in the south. Dramatic ruins in Sirpur are easily three rivers—Mahanadi, Jonk and Shivnath, near the city of
accessible from the capital, Raipur, and can be traversed over Bilaspur. Apart from being a coveted ‘holy dip’ town, it is
a day. The epicentre in the northwest is Kawardha, where well known for its Nar Narayan Temple that was built by

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the ancient Bhoramdeo Temple, with a ‘Kamasutra-esque’ King Shabar. Shabari, a notable character in the Ramayana,
canvas and relics around, is located. Rajim hosts the grand finds significance in this temple. It is said that the temple
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Kumbh Mela for sages at the confluence of the Mahanadi, also commemorates her and her unwavering devotion to
Pairi and Sondur rivers. There are dozens of spiritual interest Lord Ram.
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locations in the state, which could account for a trip alone.

Kawardha Temple Complex
Eminent Sirpur A masterpiece of architecture, the Bhoramdeo Temple
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The now sleepy town of Sirpur is barely a testimony for the lies 17 km from Kawardha. Wend your way through an
once culturally vibrant capital of ancient Dakshin Koshala. It idyllic setting of the simple village life of the Baigas and
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was one of the busiest trading ports and architecturally rich the dense woods. Ornate patterns and sculptures cover
places in the country, considered even more eminent than every inch of the walls of the temple. The sanctum lies a
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Harappa of the Indus Valley Civilisation. Today, you can stroll couple of steps below the mandapa, with a shivling in the
around ruins of the sixth to 10th centuries established temples middle. Four rows of sculptures cover the length of the
and monasteries like the Lakshman Mandir, Teevardev temple—from the base to the spire. Other less exquisite but
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Complex, Ram Temple, Anand Prabhu Kuti Vihar, ancient temples like Mandwa Mahal and Cherki Mahal lie
Gandeshwar Temple and Surang Tila. His Holiness the in a 10-km radius.
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Dalai Lama has visited Sirpur, not once but twice, citing his
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draw as the immense peace that he has felt here. Sirpur is only The Hill Town Of Mainpat
an hour and a half-hour drive from Raipur. A Tibetan settlement (formally known as the Phende Ling
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Tibetan Settlement), Mainpat is fragmented into seven camps

Ghatrani Waterfall & Jatmai Temple on this plateau and is Chhattisgarh’s designated ‘hill station’.
The Ghatarani Waterfall and Jatmai Temple lie within eight Great weather apart, it is known for the monasteries and red-
km of each other and about 90 km southeast of Raipur. The robed monks who pray in them. Fluttering prayer flags and the
Ghatarani Waterfall announces itself before you can see it sounds of chants from the monasteries waft through the crisp
through the thick foliage of saal trees. You can go to the base air of the town.
across a bridge, walking past a Bhairava statue. In the leafy
embrace of a thick-forested area lies the Jatmai Temple. Destination Dantewada
It is said that the name Danteshwari Devi was given to the
The Tri Loop Of Champaran, Rajim And Arang original Manikeshwari Devi of the Nagavanshi kings who
Champaran holds special significance for the Vallabh sect, ruled the region before the Kakatiyas of Warangal arrived in
as this was the place where founder Saint Vallabhacharya Dantewada, south of the state in Bastar. Though the ancestral
was born. A big complex of bright shrines and exhibits draws deity came with the Kakatiya king, Rudra Pratap Dev, who
devotees from all parts of the country. At the confluence of the decided to enshrine her at the confluence of two rivers, both
Mahanadi, Pairi and Sondur lies the spiritual town of Rajim— Hindus and tribals of Bastar accepted her as the Kuldevi. Each
the ‘Prayag’ of Chhattisgarh. The Rajiv Lochan Temple year, Bastar Dussehra is celebrated to commemorate her as
is the biggest highlight of the town, apart from the periodic the most important goddess of the region. While Dussehra is
Kumbh Mela that is organised on a grand scale. Remains of an apt time to visit the Danteshwari Temple in Dantewada,
the ninth-century Bhand Deval Temple will interest history the spiritual fervour runs strong even on other days.

44 OCTOBER 2018
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SANTOSH K. MISRA, IAS

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(Above) A complex of shrines

and exhibits, Champaran,
the birthplace of Saint
Vallabhacharya, is special for
the Vallabh sect; His Holiness
the Dalai Lama has visited
Sirpur twice
Chhattisgarh is home to seven major
tribes—Bison Horn is one of them;
(facing page) a Gondi dancer prepares
to mount his bamboo sticks and thump
to tribal percussion

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46 OCTOBER 2018
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The tribals of Chhattisgarh are known for
their craftsmanship using various natural
resources; (below) the haats are a weekly
coming together of tribal communities
selling their ware

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River-side Barsur Arts & Handicrafts
The only remnant of the erstwhile stronghold of the The innate creative talent of the tribals produces wonders

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Chhinndak Nagwanshi rulers as early as 840 AD, Barsur is in metal, wood, clay and other natural materials. Most of the
home to many chronicles in stone. The town lies at the edge themes are hinged on local gods and goddesses and the agro

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of the Indravati river and is known as the city of temples and background of the state. Small clusters of homes are often
ponds. It is said that the town has 147 temples and an equal engaged in crafts like bell metal work (dhokra), wrought iron

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number of ponds. Of these, only a few are prominent and craft, terracotta, cowrie shell work, sisal and bamboo products,
worth a visit—Pedamma Temple, Mama-Bhanja, Twin weaving, stone carving, wood craft, Kosa silk production,
Ganesha, Solah Khamba, Battisa Shiva Temple and Tumba art, Godna printing and tribal painting. One can visit

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Chandraditya Temple. Saathi, an NGO based in Kondagaon, which helps access
villages around. Since the crafts are widespread and addressed
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Meet The Tribals Of Bastar in small clutches, one needs ample time to detour from the
The entire belly of India, including parts of Maharashtra, highways and see entire households engrossed in keeping the
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Madhya Pradesh, Chhattisgarh, Uttar Pradesh, Odisha crafts alive.

and even Andhra Pradesh can be called the ‘tribal belt of
Gonds’. In the context of Chhattisgarh, while many of the Attend A Jagaar
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tribes speak the universal Gondi language (also their own Lakshmi Jagaar is an oral tradition of performing a ritually
tribal dialects), their identities can be distinguished by enacted myth, featuring Goddess Lakshmi and her consort,
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physical features, clothing, music, dance and crafts. The Narayan. Largely seen in the Halbi-speaking areas of
main tribal ring in south central Chhattisgarh (Bastar) is Bastar, one has to visit villages of Jagdalpur, Narayanpur,
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occupied by seven major tribes—Bison Horn Marias, Abhuj Kondagaon, Dantewada and Bijapur to attend one. The
(or Hill Marias) Murias, Bhatras, Dhurvas, Halbas, Dorlas and local temple of the village hosts the Lakshmi Jagaar for three
Gadbas. These are further divided into sub-sects that make consecutive years and is hero-worshipped by elder women
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for almost 40 tribes. The northwestern parts of the state are called gurmayees (singers). The ceremony is rooted in themes
home to the Baigas, easily identifiable by the tattooed faces of of harvest, love and protection. These are usually held in the
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the women. The only way to get a peek into the local life in winter months of October-February. The Lakshmi Jagaar can
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the villages is to visit during madhai (a fair or festival), when start on any day, but must end on a Thursday. On this day,
the mood is charged and hospitality is at its best. Else, visit a the songs are sung for the whole night. In fact, Jagaar can
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local weekly market. be translated to ‘being awake’. Apart from being a devoted
religious gesture, it also has entertainment value, as villagers
Haats Of Chhattisgarh gather together to meet at the local temple. While Lakshmi
For a crash course in seeing local life, cuisines, crafts and Narayan are the highlights of the story, it is organised to
and identifying tribals from different regions, there is no invoke gods from all parts of Chhattisgarh (and other places)
better place to visit than the weekly markets or haats. to bless the village for a better harvest and a prosperous year.
Each day of the week is assigned to one or more regions, The folk tale sung by the gurmayees is the highlight of any
for the weekly haat. Small shops come up with vegetables Lakshmi Jagaar.
(sold in units of 20, known as cowrie), toiletries, fish, clothes,
local liquor and other things that one might need during the Bastar Dussehra
course of the week. Communities trudge up to 1,000 km Use Jagdalpur as the base to see the festivities of the 75-
on foot or tempos to arrive at their regional haat by noon, so day unique Dussehra celebrations from July to October,
the best time to visit is around lunch, when commerce and when both the Hindus and tribal population of the region
activity are in full swing. Traditionally, the haat was not only commemorate Goddess Danteshwari. Fascinating rituals and
a place where tribals could barter local produce but also a ceremonies unfold as the region throws itself into celebrations.
communal hotspot to socialise, drink and exchange news. Plan a trip around the last 10 days when Jagdalpur transforms
Male-dominated rinks hosting cockfights are a prominent into a melting pot of cultural activity with thousands of tribals
feature during the haats and cater to the weekly dose of low- descending onto the city to take part in the ancient rituals.
stake gambling. The highlight of the festival is a large indigenous wooden rath

OCTOBER 2018 49
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The 75-day Bastar Dussehra celebrations are a unique

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(chariot) that is made by locals of Bedaumar and Jharumar the namesake drink. They yield summer flowers that are
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villages and pulled by the Bison Horn Marias. Legend goes processed to make the potent local colourless alcoholic drink.
that one such rath was brought from neighbouring Odisha, and Dried mahua flowers can be seen in piles in the local haats.
the ceremony was imported from Puri, where the Kakatiya The white, frothy salphi might be more palatable for the urban
kings did the same at the Jagannath Temple. The chariot palate. It is a beer-like drink that is best consumed straight
moves along with the beat of the Munda Bajas, played by from a container made of tumba (gourd).
a small troupe from a specific community from the nearby Salphi has both a practical and heart-warming legend attached
Potanar village. The town is alive with markets, ceremonies to it. The tribals used to plant a salphi tree (fish tail sago palm)
at different temples and visits to the Bastar Palace. People as soon as a child was born in the house. Both the child and
carrying Anga devas (local gods propped on heavy ladders) the tree would grow together, under similar care, and at the
are often seen breaking into trance-induced runs, adding a age of 18, the tree could start yielding the sap, which is used
mystical mood to the entire scene. for several purposes in tribal life. The young person could
Photography ALAMY, GETTY IMAGES and

sell this to earn a living and use the product of the tree for
Unique Brews Of Chhattisgarh his family. The tapping schedule is adhered to with great
Alcohol is un-sensational and an essential part of the daily life precision—once every morning and evening at fixed times,
CHHATTISGARH TOURISM

of the tribals. The local potent brews possibly give them the thrice in summer. Many tribals believe that salphi cures
bravado to live in extremely elemental circumstances. Do not diabetes and serves as an antiseptic as well—but for most, it’s
be surprised to see women and children (in small proportions) the beverage to pick on a warm afternoon in the plains. Chhind
also drinking regularly. The shady mahua tree that dots the is another version of salphi, also extracted from a type of
entire belly of India is the main source of ingredients for palm. Other versions of this are landa (made from fermented

50 OCTOBER 2018
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coming together of the Hindus and tribal population to commemorate Goddess Danteshwari; white and frothy, salphi is Chhattisgarh's home-grown liquor
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visiting a temple ceremony or a visit to an artisan’s house can only be done with the help
rice) and rusum (made from jaggery). The best place to try of local knowledge.
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these is a haat, where rows of women scoop drinks from large

cauldrons and serve them in a leaf cup. STAY
It is likely that you’re going to base yourself in Raipur to explore the belly of the state,
Jagdalpur to get around Bastar and Kawardha to see the northern parts. Here are some of
the recommended stays in Chhattisgarh.
NAVIGATOR
Hyatt, Raipur
GETTING THERE One of the few branded names to grace the city, the Hyatt experience is expectedly
Raipur, the capital city of Chhattisgarh, is connected by air, rail and road to major metros comfortable and luxurious.
and cities of India. The state’s airport is situated about 15 km from the town. Air India, www.raipur.hyatthotels.hyatt.com
Jet Airways, Jet Konnect and Indigo are some of the airlines that service Delhi, Mumbai,
Hyderabad, Indore, Nagpur, Kolkata, Chennai and other major cities from here. The Raipur Hotel Devansh Residency, Jagdalpur
railway station lies on the Howrah-Nagpur-Mumbai line, with connectivity to key cities in A great pick from the otherwise weathered list of hotels in Jagdalpur, Devansh offers
North, East and Central parts of the country. clean and spacious rooms. Room service, a high-end shower cubicle, internet, a fridge and
flat-screen TV add up to give you the nudge to book.
BEST TIME TO GO TO CHHATTISGARH Ph (0) 77822 21199
As in most of Central India, the most viable period to travel is from October to March. Palace Kawardha, Kawardha
Culture aficionados should keep madhais (fairs and festivals) in mind; most of them happen Established in the 1930s by Maharaj Dharamraj Singh, the erstwhile palace and now hotel
between January and March. The Jagdalpur Tribal Dussehra (Bastar Dussehra) starts as stands on 11 acres and is beautifully embellished with Italian marble, stone and art.
early as July and runs for 75 days, with the most exciting days in early to mid-October. www.palacekawardha.com
The festivals are local calendar-driven, so planning with someone in Chhattisgarh is
essential. The waterfalls circuit, the main draw for nature lovers, is best visited just after Chitrakote Luxury Tents, Chitrakote
the monsoon. Stay at least one night in either the cottages (12) or luxury tents (6) just ahead of the
Chitrakote Waterfalls at the tourism board-run Chitrakote Luxury Tents. Choose the
ON GROUND ASSISTANCE rightmost tents for a view of the falls or the more atmospheric tents that overlook the
It is highly recommended to hire a guide for your trip, especially if you are interested in Indravati river snaking below in the valley.
accessing the tribal villages. Seeing local life with experiences like a meal in the village, www.chhattisgarhtourism.net

OCTOBER 2018 51
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TEMPLE TOWNS

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 The larger-than-life Shiva statue at
Murudeshwar seems to be rising from
the ocean and draws hundreds of
devotees every day

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ALAMY

Connected by a long myth, on a long shoreline, the coastal towns of Gokarna and
Murudeshwar in Karnataka are for those holidaymakers who yearn for tranquility.
Words and Photography PARIKSHIT RAO
OCTOBER 2018 53
I
ndia is a contradiction at every step. One of Magical Starts
the most magical things to happen here is the Myths have sprinkled Gokarna’s air with holiness. In a custom
possibility of finding peace right in the thick of its that dates back centuries, Lord Shiva is worshipped in the
famed chaos. When it comes to travelling around form of an atmalinga every morning and evening by a retinue
the country’s 7,516-km coastline, Goa is the natural, of serious, saffron-clad priests at the village’s Mahabaleshwara
hallowed choice for almost every tourist stepping Temple. The temple’s story of origin is interesting and has
onto the west coast and landing straight inside a all the wizardry unique to legends that feature the Hindu
shack in search of King’s beer. Further down south, pantheon. At the behest of his mother and after years of
Kerala beckons those who fly in on chartered flights and tour rigorous penance, Ravana acquired a powerful boon of

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packages to spend days at a plush resort. Lying smack in the immortality in the form of a manifestation of Shiva’s very soul—
centre of these tourist magnets, Karnataka’s beaches usually the atmalinga. However, there was one condition; the atmalinga

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get snubbed, as a result of which they have retained much of would get rooted to the first spot it was kept on. Keen to install
the tranquility that seasoned travellers prefer on their the idol in his private temple, Ravana carefully adhered to this

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beach holidays. rule on the long journey from Mt Kailash to Lanka—until he
Among the many quiet towns and villages that dot coastal arrived at Gokarna.
Karnataka, Gokarna and Murudeshwar share a laidback, Afraid that Lord Shiva’s gift may spell doom in the hands of

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spiritual vibe and great beaches (some undiscovered) that Ravana, the gods tricked him by sending Ganesha as a Brahmin
redefine the quintessential idea of a beach vacation. Bonded boy, who offered to hold the linga until the king finished his
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by a common mythological story, these temple towns are about evening prayers near the beach. When Ravana returned, he
75 km away from each other and are a great alternative when did not find the boy anywhere but instead saw the atmalinga
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you’ve had enough of boisterous barflies and rainbow hunters. on the ground. In a furious rage, he tried to wrest it, but rules
being rules Ravana only managed to twist the atmalinga into
Down to Earth a mildly distorted state. Behind the tall, granite walls of the
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Gokarna is no stranger to tourists. For decades, bikers and Mahabaleshwara Temple constructed in the Dravidian style of
frugal backpackers from Bengaluru and wizened international architecture, the atmalinga still remains rooted to the ground,
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travellers have considered it to be an alternative to Goa. drawing hundreds of faithful folks each day.
Between my first visit to Gokarna—10 years ago—to recent
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years, the unhurried pace of life tinged with spirituality has Seaside Wonders
remained pretty much unchanged. Shrines may have put Gokarna on the pilgrimage circuit, but
In a way, there are two Gokarnas—the main village where the famous beaches that have firmly placed it on the global
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the iconic temple attracts pilgrims from across India and tourism map are a short trek away to the south. A moderate
the secluded beaches set against rocky cliffs that call out to 25-minute hike, along the hill beyond Rama Temple, leads
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hammock-bound western travellers. Somewhere between the to Kudle Beach—the first door to Gokarna’s alternative side.
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two diametrically opposite groups of visitors, amidst the ringing There is a mystical cave and carvings of Shiva on the hills en
of temple bells and the brightly coloured cafes, exists a bucolic route too. Kudle is a medium-sized, pretty beach with many
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Gokarna—one of lush paddy fields flanked by coconut trees, cafes that also provide accommodation in rudimentary shacks
clear streams reflecting moonlit skies, forested knolls that open hidden away among the trees. There is a motorable road, but
up to panoramas of the Arabian Sea and red terracotta roofs that driving trades first-hand experience of the great scenery for
are just a few shades darker than the earthen colour of the mud instant gratification.
walls that support them. North Karnataka’s landscape is gentle on the eyes. A series
Take a walk around the village at dawn and Gokarna’s charm of small hills, fringed with coconut trees and forests, erupts
as ‘Kashi of the South’ becomes apparent. As an ancient centre gradually from the flat expanse of a typical coastal town and
of Sanskrit learning, it is not uncommon to see young children rolls down to meet the sea in rocky clumps, creating small
sitting on the wide verandas of modest homes, reciting from beaches and lagoons. It is a sight that keeps recurring in varying
scriptures. The serene waters of the Kotiteertha, a man-made degrees of ruggedness and remoteness as you cross over from
reservoir surrounded by temples, is the place where the town’s Kudle to Om Beach—a name that has contributed a lot to its
many Brahmin priests help the deceased attain moksha as the popularity. Coincidentally, the landscape also agrees because
languid dailyness of rural life manifests all around. Car Street, the sandy expanse is spread out like the symbol ‘Om’.
the main thoroughfare winding through a cluster of shops and Longer hikes can be made, across dodgy terrain, to Half
temples, literally makes Gokarna a one-street town before Moon and Paradise Beach but boats can get you there for a
meeting its sandy end at the Main Beach. The best view of small fee as well. There is great simplicity involved in naming
this long and beautiful beach is from the Rama Temple, a beaches here, usually based on their shape. Half Moon is, well,
popular sunset point and the venue for sporadic Carnatic music a tiny water-filled curve that usually hosts a small community
concerts, or the Bharateshwar Temple higher up. of happy lotus-eaters, while Paradise is larger and farthest, and

54 OCTOBER 2018
 Every day, priests perform
rituals by the serene waters
of Kotiteertha reservoir in
Gokarna; (below) spirituality
exists in the very air and every
nook and cranny of the temple
town of Gokarna

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(This page, above) The beaches of Gokarna are ideal for those in search of tranquility; inspired by the spiritual vibe of Gokarna, an artist carved Lord
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Shiva's face on a rock near Kudle Beach; (facing page) a young priest-in-training at the crack of dawn in Gokarna
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OCTOBER 2018
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The 123-foot-tall, ash-grey
statue of Lord Shiva
dominates the landscape
of Murudeshwar

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perhaps, making a point about the good vibrations felt here. daily halt at the railway station 6 km away! Kandukagiri also
All these beaches have basic cafes and shacks that rent out no- pays homage to Hindu mythology in a quirky theme park that
frills rooms. features large statues of Ravana giving the idol to Ganesha,
On the northern end of Gokarna lie the remote beaches of Krishna advising Arjuna, and strangely enough, the Sun God.
Manjaguni and Honey Beach. The former is a local beach that An innocuous sound-and-light show, held every evening,
is next to a fishing village, while the latter has a plush resort and brings these concrete characters to life and enthrals audiences
cottages for a memorable holiday. These beaches are accessed by retelling the legend of Murudeshwar’s origins.
by roads that skirt cosy villages and involve crossing the
Gangavalli river to take you deeper into the coastal experience. Silent Liquidity
Mornings in Murudeshwar are quiet affairs. Not to say that
Country Cousin the rest of the day doesn’t follow suit. Owing to the town’s

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My love affair with Murudeshwar started with a postcard I compact size, almost all activities revolve around the temple or
saw hanging in one of Goa’s souvenir shops. A larger-than-life the beach, attracting few overnighters and almost no long-term

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Shiva statue seemed to be rising out of a pretty ocean. This vacationers. Pilgrims from nearby districts and armies of shy,
was long before Photoshop dramatically altered our digital rural schoolkids on educational tours, walking hand-in-hand,

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lives, but the photograph seemed real and unreal at the are commonly seen on day trips. For many of these children,
same time. Murudeshwar is their first experience of the ocean and it’s
Murudeshwar’s story began at about the same time as moving to see the beach transform into their vast, liquid

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Gokarna’s. Before Ravana tried to uproot the atmalinga at playground every morning.
Gokarna, he threw the cloth covering the sacred idol to the Speedboats and jet skis line up to take travellers farther
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south where it fell in present-day Murudeshwar. The temple into the powerful waves that characterise coastal Karnataka.
is the undisputed nucleus but, despite its legendary status, Swimming is discouraged due to strong undercurrents.
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the current example of Dravidian architecture is only 35 However, not splashing around in the cobalt blue sea also
years old and financed by a local businessman. Here, Shiva deserves punishment. On quieter evenings and nights, gentle
is worshipped in his ascetic form as ‘aghora’ and hundreds waves kiss the white, powdery sand, hemmed in by palm and
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of pilgrims cross the tower’s wide, granite threshold flanked areca groves, making the beach perfect for long walks. Skip
by life-sized elephants every day. Early morning rituals are the first hundred metres on the main stretch and enter an
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popular among pilgrims, after which they queue up to watch undisturbed zone that’s perfect if you love talking to waves or
Murudeshwar’s boundless seascape and an aerial view of the listening to them.
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village’s breezy, palm-covered landscape from the temple’s The beauty of Karnataka’s rural landscape is better
18th floor window observatory before heading home. appreciated when you explore it at leisure. Away from the sea,
Built at the base of Kandukagiri hill and surrounded by the you can hire a bicycle and explore lagoons, old temples and
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sea on three sides, Murudeshwar temple’s literal high points other villages that surround Murudeshwar. The road conditions
are the 249-foot-high gopuram and the 123-foot-tall statue of are decent and you’ll pass several hamlets on the way. With
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Shiva crowning the hilltop. As ‘aghora’, this ash-gray sculpture such diverse experiences and a quiet seaside life, Murudeshwar
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is one of the most serene renditions of the Hindu god and is the sort of place where, after the pilgrims have left, what
dominates the landscape for miles. You can even spot it from remains is a divine beach where only the truest sea
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inside the Matsyagandha Express that makes a two-minute lovers linger.

NAVIGATOR
ESSENTIAL INFORMATION enough to walk everywhere, and you can guesthouses on the seashore close to only-vegetarian food scene, serving
The beaches around Gokarna and even hire bicycles. If you wish to explore the temple. delicious thalis and refreshing, tall
Murudeshwar have strong currents. the sea or beaches around, negotiate with glasses of splendid Gadbad ice-cream in
People do swim but take care as there the boat operators at the beach or the local SHOP several flavours. Naveen Beach Resort in
are no lifeguards, especially on the more fishermen who make daily trips. Religious souvenirs and paraphernalia Murudeshwar has a bar and serves great
remote beaches. dominate shopping at both towns, along seafood, prepared the Mangalorean way.
STAY with coir handicrafts and toys. In Gokarna,
GETTING THERE Gokarna A number of hotels, you can pick up a hammock or musical CHECKLIST
Air Goa’s Dabolim (156 km) is the closest guesthouses, homestays and shacks are instruments on Car Street or books at Sri • Don’t hesitate to order the Gadbad ice-
airport to Gokarna, while Murudeshwar is spread out across the village and other Radhakrishna Bookstore. cream at Prema Restaurant, Gokarna with
closer to Mangalore airport (158 km). beaches. Gokarna International Beach every meal.
Rail Some trains on the Konkan Resort, Nimmu House and Om Beach Resort WHEN TO GO • Visit the underground cave temple on the
Railway line stop at Gokarna Road and are a few of the upscale and comfortable These temple towns can be visited year- hike from Gokarna to Kudle Beach.
Murudeshwar stations. More trains options available here. round, although summers can get very • Catch a sunset from the Rama Temple
stop at nearby towns of Kumta, Ankola Murudeshwar Mavalli Beach Heritage hot and monsoons can be unpredictable, in Gokarna.
and Bhatkal. Home (www.mavallibeachheritage.com) especially if you are hiking or indulging in • Come face-to-face with the
Road Both towns are best reached by road is a lovely heritage homestay offering outdoor activities. Shiva statue through the viewing gallery
either by driving or taking regular, overnight great facilities, apart from Naveen Beach at Murudeshwar.
buses that leave daily from Bengaluru (480 Resort (www.naveenhotels.com) and Sea EAT • Rent a bicycle and explore rural life here,
km) and Mysuru (450 km). View Beach Resort. Kamath Yatri Nivas Prema Restaurant near the Main Beach featuring lagoons, fields, rivers and secret
Gokarna and Murudeshwar are small and Panchvati Guest House are budget is the tested veteran of Gokarna’s beaches hidden farther up north.

OCTOBER 2018 59
 Anchor
EASTERN DELIGHT

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A Trip Through
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Tripura
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(Clockwise from left) Constructed in Indo-Islamic

fusion style, the Neermahal Palace stands tall in the
middle of Rudrasagar lake; it remains unknown who
carved the larger-than-life sculptures of Unakoti;
over the years, Rudrasagar lake has shrunk due to
deforestation; the tall watchtower of Vanghmun
village offers spectacular sunset views
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Surrounded by more popular neighbours, Tripura, with its rustic appeal,
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rich history and culture, rare flora and fauna and friendly locals, deserves a
mention in India’s tourism brochures and in your travel plans.
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Words & Photography SUGATO TRIPATHY

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SHUTTERSTOCK.

OCTOBER 2018 61
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tates like Tripura hold within them uncanny surprises lies a dilapidated brick temple, probably dating back to the
bound to delight the quintessential traveller. Sharing 8th-9th centuries. Explore further and you can find sadhus in
more than 800 km of border with Bangladesh, this deep meditation, child priests playing with incense sticks and
nondescript Bengali-speaking state has some historical if lucky, a rare sighting of the extremely shy clouded leopard.
and architectural gems worth exploring. Unakoti is four hours’ drive from the state capital, Agartala.

Unakoti Neermahal Palace On The Lake

It is uncertain who carved these colossal structures across large Located in western Tripura, this is the only ‘lake palace of
granite rock faces. Unakoti means ‘less than a crore’, indicating eastern India’. In 1930, Maharaja Bir Bikram Kishore Manakya,
the estimated number of gods and goddesses in Hindu the then ruler of Tripura, gave a British company named Martin
mythology. Archaeologists believe the carvings date back to the and Burn the contract to construct a summer palace in the
11th-12th centuries, with no certain theory about the sculptors. middle of Rudrasagar lake—a deep and extensive wetland. It
There is something inexplicably magical about these larger- took nine years to construct one of the finest examples of Indo-

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than-life sculptures spread across the undulating topography Islamic architecture in eastern India. Built majorly with marble
amidst lush green surroundings. Most carvings being of Lord and sandstone, it has numerous balconies, dome-shaped towers,

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Shiva in varied forms indicates this place was a Shaivite extensive pavilions and bridges. The beautiful red and white
centre flourishing during the Pala dynasty rule. The bas-relief palace is divided into two parts. The western side, called Andar

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structures depicting huge Shiva heads are considered the Mahal, was meant for the royal family, and the eastern side
largest such in India. The art style is unique and differs from consisted of an open-air theatre for cultural programmes, dance,
the classical, suggesting typical tribal art forms from that era. theatre and other forms of entertainment. Arched doorways

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Painting a vivid bathing scene are the three striking figurines lead to the various domed and open terraces with an expansive
of Lord Ganesha, carved out of a steep rock, with a seasonal view of the lake. The Rudrasagar lake has shrunk by almost
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spring flowing down over them. Farther up the hill from here 40 percent in the last 50 years due to deforestation in the
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Neermahal Palace has numerous balconies, dome-shaped towers, extensive pavilions and bridges built with marble and sandstone; (facing page) the
three figurines of Lord Ganesha carved on a steep rock are the most striking structures of Unakoti

62 OCTOBER 2018
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 NAVIGATOR
GETTING THERE
There are daily flights to
Agartala from Kolkata and
Guwahati. You will largely be
dependent on local and public
transport in the state.

WHEN TO GO
November to February

WHERE TO STAY
Hotel Sonar Tori Located
near the airport, it is a small
boutique hotel. Double rooms
cost `3,000 onwards. (www.
hotelsonartoriagartala.com)

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Ginger Hotel The budget
hotel chain of the TATA
group is another stay option

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in Agartala. Double rooms
from `3,000 onwards. (www.
gingerhotels.com/agartala)

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BAMBOO
PRODUCTION
Famous for its bamboo
cultivation, several furniture
and household items are
made of bamboo. Incense
sticks produced out of
bamboo are sold all over
India. More than 50 percent
of the agarbatti sticks of
India are produced in Tripura.
 DISCOVER THIS
Orange Festival—Though the state’s orange production is on the decline and there is focus on betel nut and pineapple cultivation, every November
the Orange Festival is organised by the Tripura Tourism Department and celebrated in Jampui Hills with much fanfare by the tribal villages. The
streets of Agartala are also filled with orange vendors.

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catchment area. The decrepit palace is on the priority list of Park is a part of the sanctuary and covers an area of five sq km.
the Tripura Tourism Department for renovation and revival as The place also houses a botanical garden, a zoo, a toy train
it is one of the most popular destinations and landmarks of the and a lake. It is home to some rare and endangered species

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state, with more than three lakh visitors each year. Neermahal of animals such as the crab-eating mongoose (thought to be
is an hour’s drive from Agartala. extinct, it was spotted here after 72 years). The bespectacled
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langur, pig-tailed macaque, barking deer, monitor lizards
Ujjayanta Palace and the clouded leopard are a few of the highlights of the
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One of the finest architectural landmarks of the state, Ujjayanta sanctuary. The sanctuary’s water bodies are also home to more
Palace was built by Bubagra Radha Kishore Manikya Bahadur than 150 species of birds, such as the red breasted parakeet,
in 1901. Built in the Indo-Saracenic style of architecture, it was Blyth’s kingfisher and the greater racquet-tailed drongo.
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the seat of the Tripura kings. Now one of the largest museums Toy train rides and boating are popular among families here.
of Northeast India, it covers an area of 800 acres, housing 22 An hour’s drive from Agartala, keep a day for exploring this
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galleries, a collection of more than 1,400 stone sculptures, beautiful sanctuary. Permits are required for an overnight stay.
terracotta plaques, copper plate inscriptions, sketches and
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drawings, oil paintings and ornaments depicting the culture, Jampui Hills
tradition, history, art and lifestyle of various communities of the Touted as the only hill station of Tripura, Jampui Hills is
small state. Christened ‘Ujjayanta Palace’ by Nobel laureate situated at a height of 3,200 feet, close to the Mizoram border.
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Rabindranath Tagore, it is surrounded by Mughal-style gardens, Here, two American Air Force pilots were rescued by brave
canals, ponds and fountains. The palace is closed every Monday tribal youths during World War II. The Tribal Research
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and on public holidays. Institute of Mizoram has commemorated this event at the only
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accommodation option available here—The Eden Tourist

Kamaleswari Temple Lodge at Vanghmun. The state-run lodge is very basic and
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Located adjacent to the Bangladesh border, it is one of the attracts mostly local visitors looking for a fun weekend getaway
most sacred Hindu sites in Tripura. Dedicated to Kali, it is in the hills. The village of Vanghmun has a few thatched
thronged by lakhs of visitors every year. Revered as a Shakti restaurants serving noodles, pork pickle and rice. An eco-
Peeth, the temple structure is simple. The complex, though tourism park has been developed by the government with a
crowded, is clean and well-maintained. Built on the banks of tall watchtower. Sunset views from here, with outlines of the
Kamlasagar lake, the other end of which falls in Bangladesh, Chittagong Hills and the sundry mountain ranges of North
it is also a popular picnic spot. Families with large lunch Tripura and Mizoram, are spectacular. Famous for orange
baskets are often seen by the lakeside. Many tourists visit this cultivation, the tourism department holds the Orange Festival
place for the thrill of seeing an international border from such every November. Jampui is a six hours’ drive from Agartala.
proximity. Separated by a barbed wire, there are few security
guards in the area. A weekly ‘Border Haat’ is conducted Udaipur’s Ancient Temples
Photography ALAMY and SHUTTERSTOCK

where merchants from both the countries sell goods. Located Udaipur—the former capital of Tripura, houses some of the
an hour’s drive from Agartala, the approach road is narrow oldest temples of the state. Tripura Sundari (16th century)
with agricultural fields on either side. During the monsoon it is the most important and revered Hindu temple here. The
becomes difficult to visit this temple. ancient Bhubaneswari Temple on the bank of the Gomati river
dates back to the 17th century. The dilapidated ruins of the
Sepahijola Wildlife Sanctuary Jagannath Temple (16th century) are a must-visit if you are
Spread across an area of 14 sq km, this sanctuary houses many in Udaipur. It is the only temple in Tripura built entirely
rare species of flora and fauna. The Clouded Leopard National from stone.

OCTOBER 2018 65
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FOR THE LOVE OF FOOD

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October 1 is celebrated

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as World Vegetarian Day and we
look at the food that is healthy,

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sustainable and is rapidly
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growing in popularity. Being a
vegetarian by birth and choice,
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I am often questioned about my

food preferences. However, I
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have always maintained

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that the best food is vegetarian.

And, luckily, there are many
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people and restaurants

who think similarly, which is
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reflected in the large number

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of exclusive vegetarian eateries

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that are mushrooming across

the country.
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Words BINDU GOPAL RAO

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OCTOBER 2018
67
SHUTTERSTOCK.
Lifestyle Matters proteins like shroom balls, pea pro, bean pro, tofu, amaranth,

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Today, being a vegetarian is a lifestyle choice and not hemp’s root and sweet potato aspire to be replacements of
restricted to religion or culture. In a fast-paced world, the nutrients and textures we usually get from meat with

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people are constantly on the lookout for food that is fast, yet vegetarian sources. Nitin Dixit, co-founder of Greenr Café in
nutritious and satisfying. “People are now more appreciative Gurugram, says, “A plant-based kitchen uses ingredients that

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of the nutritional value and health quotients of vegetarian are sourced entirely from plants. Hence, even ingredients like
food. Moreover, working professionals prefer food items that milk/dairy products which are present in vegetarian kitchens
are light and easy to digest, yet flavourful. The emerging are absent or need to be declared on a menu in a plant-based

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trend of raw food has gained much acclaim over recent years restaurant. At Greenr Cafe, we have created over half a dozen
as these ingredients show quicker results in weight loss and unique plant proteins, which are complex food components
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in fighting chronic diseases,” says Neeraj Rawoot, Executive around which our dishes are built.”
Chef, Sofitel Mumbai BKC.
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The Indian vegetarian diet traditionally consisted of a Health Notes

restricted number of items. “However, with the introduction Thanks to an abundance of scientific research that
of Indianised international food, the vegetarian palate of demonstrates the health and environmental benefits of a
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the country has expanded. Since most global cuisines and plant-based diet, dieticians recommend that we derive our
delicacies include meat, restaurants are seen adopting a calories from grain products, vegetables and fruits. The trend
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vegetarian course to cater to Indian taste buds. In fact, towards clean eating and fresh produce makes vegetarianism
vegetarian Chinese food preparations can be found at every a sustainable option. With more and more people becoming
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nook and corner in India,” says Animesh Damani, Managing aware of what they are eating and where their food is sourced,
Director, Platinum Hotels, Ahmedabad. vegetarianism is on the rise.
“Meat, dairy and other products have limited shelf life
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Starry Affair and are known to cause several health issues. Vegetarianism
Top-end fine dining restaurants have started introducing is the most sustainable, guilt-free and clean form that can
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dishes that have a global influence in the menu, along with easily be sourced locally and replaced quickly without hassle.
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their classics. Indians have been globetrotters for many years, Also, India is known for its wide variety of vegetarian cuisine.
but it is only now that they have finally opened up to global You have so many options to choose from. There is hardly
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foods. Guests look for international food with desi flavours any need to go the other way if you are conscious about your
and are happy to try unique creations by popular chefs. health and eating habits,” says Praneta Mehta, co-owner,
Interestingly, vegetarian food has moved into the fine dining Kettlery – Tea Bar & Kitchen, a Mumbai-based restaurant.
space and even five-star hotels do not hesitate in setting up
exclusive vegetarian restaurants. ITC Hotels, for instance, Twist of Taste
moved in quickly to fill this niche demand. “We saw the need Modern taste palates have evolved largely due to the easy
for an exclusive vegetarian restaurant and the Royal Vega access to global cuisine. Today, a fusion of several vegetarian
initiative has been well worth it. Featuring a fine collection cuisines to create unique and innovative dishes is on the rise.
of signature vegetarian dishes from across India, Royal Vega The availability of several variations of grains, pulses, fruits
at ITC Grand Chola showcases the classical grandeur of the and vegetables has also made it easy to innovate and curate
subcontinent and beyond. This luxury restaurant is based really exciting and delicious vegetarian food. “The beetroot
on the concept of seasons and presents a delightful offering shikampuri kebab in our menu is an adaptation from the
of delectable vegetarian food from the royal kitchens of famous Hyderabadi kebabs, (usually non-vegetarian) with
India and is pan-Indian in nature,” says Ajit Bangera, Senior a vegetarian twist. The taste and look of the dish is very
Executive Chef, ITC Grand Chola. similar to the original shikampuri kebabs, but it is made with
all-veg ingredients. Also, we are moving back to Ayurvedic-
Plant Protein style eating, so Vedic methods or ‘Satvik’ foods are also in
Plant Protein (PlantPro) is a rising phenomenon and a trend. For example, the black rice khichdi on our menu is an
significant development in the food industry. Plant-based adaptation of the famous yogic meal with a twist,” says Mehta.

68 AUGUST 2018
OCTOBER 2018
 Fine dining spaces like Royal
Vega at ITC Grand Chola have
started including signature
vegetarian dishes from across
India on their menus

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TOP VEGETARIAN
RESTAURANTS IN INDIA
Royal Vega at ITC Grand
Chola, Chennai
Must try Ksiratumbi Kofteh,
Gucchi Chilgoza, Makhane

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Chuara Kheer
Reservations (044) 4906 5272,
(044) 4906 5271

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Rasovara, Lavelle
Road, Bengaluru

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Must try Mandvi ka Dabeli,
Bikaneri Mutter Pack,
Rajasthani Kadhi

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Reservations (080) 4173 8968,
+91 98860 60965 gi
Burma Burma, Mumbai,
Gurugram and Bengaluru
Must try Samosa Soup, Khow
Suey, Avocado Ice Cream
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Reservations Mumbai
(022) 4003 6600/01/16;
Gurugram (0124) 4372 997/98/99,
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Bengaluru (080) 4300 8120

Carrots, Bengaluru
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Must try Muscle Relaxer Juice,

Crunchy Waldorf Salad, Fully Filled
Mashed Potato Pie
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Reservations (080) 4117 2812

Kettlery – Tea Bar &

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Kitchen, Mumbai
Must try Silver Needle Tea, Fried
Dokhla Chat, Black Rice Khichdi
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Reservations (022) 3375 6405

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Tuskers, Sofitel Mumbai BKC

Must try Ratalo ki Tikki, Jodhpuri
Gatte, Malpua
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Reservations +91 91673 91130

The Terrassen Café, Hyderabad

Must try Vegani Keema
Noodles, Kathi Falafel Roll,
Terrassen Ragi Cake
Reservations +91 93982 73467,
+91 83097 37962

The Real Green Café, Pune

Must try Stir-fried veggies with
quinoa, Desi Aloo Garlic Sandwich,
Peanut Butter Banana Milkshake
Reservations +91 88062 70327

Hamsa, Chennai
Must try Kacche Kele Aur Anar Ki
Tikki, Kofteh Brindavan, Anjeer Aur
Adrak ka Halwa
Reservations (044) 3085 3831

The Holy Tree, Ludhiana

Must try Broccoli Saag Exotica,
Quinoa Biryani and Salan, Phirni
Reservations +91 98725 78300,
(0161) 4601 301
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Chefs at restaurants across the country are choosing to go completely vegetarian or vegan with their ingredients and serving interesting preparations like
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Rajwadi Khichadi (facing page) and Dal Baati Churma (above, left), served at Khandani Rajdhani, and Khow Suey (above, right) at Burma Burma
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“Currently we can see that a vegetarian version of all Vegan Vows

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cuisines, whether Indian or international, is being made. A key driver of the vegetarian movement is being fuelled by
Restaurants have started exploring regional cuisines for good,” people going vegan (abstaining from use of dairy products
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says Aji Nair, COO, F&B division, Mirah Hospitality. that come from animals). Susmitha Subbaraju, co-owner,
Carrots, India’s first vegan restaurant in Bengaluru says, “The
Ingredient Intensive intention was to let people know that there is no need to use
There has also been a visible return by restaurants to use animals for food as you can cook a variety of food with plant-
of traditional grains. “Timur, quinoa, ashwagandha, jimbu, based ingredients.” The menu here is huge, and the team
edamame, safed haldi, tamarind leaves, zakhia, artichokes, ensures that there is something for everyone’s palate. The
white asparagus and a variety of fresh edible flowers are in fusion menu has winners like the Carrots Healthy Platter and
vogue today. At Royal Vega, the finest ingredients are sourced Aubergine Mushroom Platter that use vegetables and grains
from all over the country,” says Bangera. in an interesting manner. Subbaraju, who has been vegan
The resurgence of millets, jowar, bajra as traditional since 2003, says that vegans have more choices than one can
superfoods can hardly be undermined. Moringa, quinoa, chia imagine. “When I turned vegan, I thought I was giving up
and flax seeds are also finding space in vegetarian kitchens dairy. But by avoiding one kind of curd or milk, I actually
and pairing of vegetarian food, healthy beverages and cold got so many more kinds at my disposal and a lot of these are
pressed juices is becoming popular. Ankit Gupta, co-owner very easy to make.” In fact, you can use almond milk, brown
of Burma Burma, says, “We are trying to create flavours rice milk, soya milk, oat milk, millet milk, coconut coffee
which have not been used before. For instance, we have an and curds from peanuts that has a nice thick, creamy texture.
indigenous product called tohu, which is made with roasted Remember the old adage, ‘You are what you eat.’ Vegetarian
gram flour (besan), and I can assure that no one can figure out food is not just the right way to stay healthy but is also
the ingredient in that preparation.” ecologically sustainable. Now that’s a win-win for sure.

OCTOBER 2018 71
 Anchor
HOLY GROUND

A town of innumerable legends, an ancient metropolis, venue

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of the Maha Kumbh, home to the great poet Kalidasa…to sum up the
significance of Ujjain in a few words is perhaps impossible…

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it was the keeper of time itself!

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Words ANURAG MALLICK & PRIYA GANAPATHY

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A then-and-now portrait of Ujjain's sadhu; (facing page) a Brahmin venerates the holy water at Ram Ghat during the evening aarti

72 OCTOBER 2018
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OCTOBER 2018
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SHUTTERSTOCK.
Before he built the famous 'Jantar Mantars'
in Delhi, Jaipur, Mathura and Varanasi,
Jai Singh constructed the vedashala in
Ujjain. The design, inspired by Ulugh Beg's
observatory in Samarkand, comes together
with the Shankhu Yantra that calculates
the length of the day and Samrat Yantra
that tells time

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he greatness of Ujjain is immense on archery, horse and elephant riding from the venerable sage in a
so many different planes. As per Hindu total of 126 days. Till today, the sage’s lineage are custodians of
mythology, this is one of the four places the temple complex.
where drops of nectar fell from the kumbha Geographically, Ujjain is situated at the precise spot where

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(pot) carried by Jatayu, sanctifying it as a the first meridian of longitude and the Tropic of Cancer
holy teertha. Located on the banks of the intersect, which is why it is hailed as the Greenwich of India.

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sacred Kshipra river, Ujjain is the venue of the Maha Kumbh The karka rekha (Tropic of Cancer) passes through Ujjain,
or Simhasth Mela that takes place once every 12 years when crossing the temples of Mahakal and Mangalnath, considered

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millions come for a ritual bath as Jupiter transits through Leo the birthplace of Mangal (Mars), also believed to be the closest
(simha). It is home to one of the 12 jyotirlingas in the country point on Earth to the Red Planet. Shops outside the temple
(and perhaps the most powerful), with the Mahakaleshwar sell set thalis of red-coloured objects of worship—flowers,

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temple spire looming large over town. After the killing of sacred thread, dyed rice, cloth—to propitiate the fiery god,
Kamsa, Lord Krishna is believed to have come here for his Angareshwar. The Tropic of Cancer marks the northernmost
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martial education. position of the sun in its yearly course. Since Ujjain is the
Historically, Ujjain was one of the 16 mahajanapadas (great shortest distance from the Earth’s surface to the sun, it was
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metropolises) in ancient India and the capital of the western considered the navel of the Earth.
province under the Mauryan rule. Ashoka served as its viceroy The importance of Ujjain to Hindus is the same as Cuzco
and his children, Mahendra and Sanghamitra, were born here. was to the Mayans; for both calculation of time and planetary
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As Avantika or Ujjayini, it was the capital of legendary ruler positions was critical to ascertain the auspicious time for rituals.
Raja Vikramaditya whose folk tales live on in ‘Betal Pacheesi’ Ujjain was a leading centre for astronomy and mathematics
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and ‘Singhasan Batteesi’. It was at the Gadhkalika Mandir in ancient India and home to astronomers like Varahamihira,
that Kalidasa worshipped the deity of Kali and received her Brahmagupta and Bhaskaracharya. Surya Siddhanta, a fourth-
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blessings to become India’s greatest Sanskrit poet laureate. It century astronomical treatise, is one of the earliest known
was another great monarch, Harsha, who renovated the shrine. descriptions of standard time in India. Postulating a spherical
From a spiritual and religious context, Ujjain is home to Earth, the book describes the Prime Meridian or zero
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various Hindu sects and akhadas. The Nath Sampradaya’s longitude, as passing through Avanti (Ujjain). In his treatise,
moolsthan (origin) is located here and Baba Matsyendranath’s Lilavati, Bhaskaracharya writes, “The location of Ujjain is
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samadhi is here too, as is Indian yogi Lahiri Mahasaya’s. The exactly under the sun, which is nowhere else in the world.”
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Harasiddhi temple where Sati’s elbow is supposed to have Before GMT (Greenwich Mean Time) was adopted as the
fallen is the hallowed centre of the Shakta cult. Ujjain is also global time marker in 1884, Ujjain used to be India’s standard
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a famed seat of tantra kriya and naga sadhus can be initiated time. Even today, wherever you may be born, a panchang
nowhere else but here, as they follow the ultimate practice of (horoscope) is always drawn based on Ujjain time, roughly 29
shav kriya (ritual consumption of a cremated corpse). Kapalikas minutes behind IST. It was here that Vikramaditya drove away
and Aghori sadhus flock to the shrine of Kala Bhairav, where the Sakas and started a new era in 57 BCE called the Vikram
buffaloes are no longer sacrificed but alcohol is still ritually Samvat or Ujjain calendar. The best place to understand
offered to the deity. the importance accorded to timekeeping is the Vedshala
Ujjain seemed like Vishnu’s viraat roopa (giant cosmic (observatory), built between 1725-30 by Maharaja Sawai Jai
form), or to stay true to the paramount deity, Shiva as an Singh II as governor of Malwa.
unending column of fire whose top or bottom could not be In 1719, Jai Singh witnessed an argument in Muhammad
gauged even by gods—too large to comprehend for the human Shah’s court concerning the right time when the Delhi
mind. We pondered where to start and whether Ujjain would Sultan should start a journey. Inspired by the observatory in
live up to its expectations or buckle under its own weight. It Samarkand, built by Timur’s grandson, Ulugh Beg, Jai Singh
was with great trepidation that we checked into the Trolet Inn constructed the first of his vedshalas in Ujjain, before his other
(an acronym for ‘The Road Less Travelled’) but were instantly ‘Jantar Mantars’ at Jaipur, Delhi, Mathura and Varanasi. The
put at ease by the affable Moongis. They planned out our unique Bhitti Yantra or transit instrument is found only at
itinerary, and as instructed, we began with the top eight sights. Ujjain’s vedshala. Our guide explained the Shankhu Yantra,
Maharishi Sandipani’s Ashram, considered the best among which calculates the length of the day, and the Samrat Yantra
the main education centres in ancient India, was where or sundial, recognisable by a long flight of steps, which tells
Krishna, Balarama and Sudama received their training in arms, the time. In 1923, Maharaja Madhav Rao Scindia of Gwalior

OCTOBER 2018 75
renovated the observatory and added a correction table. Our As per the Avanti Khand of the Skanda Purana, the
guide asked us to come back on June 21, the summer solstice, concept of time has been divided into four yugas and 84
when the sun would be directly overhead, “12:29 se 12:30 ke kalpas, each governed by 84 Mahadevs. Around Mahakal’s
beech, ek minute ke liye aap ki khud ki parchhayi aapka saath chhod shrine, four Shiva shrines guard the cardinal directions and
degi (For one brief minute, your own shadow will forsake you).” 80 other Shiva temples can be found. These are collectively

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We headed to the temple of Kala Bhairav, where stalls sold known as Chaurasi (84) Mahadev and Shiva-bhakts flock to
bottles of alcohol to be offered to the deity. As per one story, Ujjain to complete a holy circuit during chaturmasa (the four

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the four Vedas were recited by Brahma—one from each head monsoon months).
—and written down by Lord Ganesha. Brahma got conceited The next morning, after a breakfast of poha at our homestay,

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and wanted a fifth Veda, but was stopped by other gods. Since we set about covering Ujjain’s remaining sights. ‘Vikram ka tila’
Brahma was in no mood to relent, the gods went to Lord Shiva was a kitschy sculptural complex of King Vikramaditya seated
and from his third eye appeared Batukh Bhairav, who was on his Singhasana Batteesi, surrounded by his Navaratnas or

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sent to pacify Brahma or kill him if he didn’t pay heed. To nine jewels of his court. The wise and valorous king was gifted
atone for his sin of Brahma hatya, Bhairav performed penance the royal throne by Indra for solving a dispute between the
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at Siddhvat on the banks of the Kshipra. That’s how the apsaras (celestial maidens) Rambha and Urvashi. Durgadas
Kalbhairav temple came into existence and the surrounding ki Chhatri commemorated the valour of Durgadas Rathore
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area was called Bhairavgarh or Behrugarh. who fought the Mughals for 25 years to save Ajit Singh, the
Just beyond the high-walled Behrugarh Jail, we strolled last heir of the Marwar clan. He retired to Ujjain to worship
down the narrow alleys to watch artists make designs with Mahakal and in 1718 died at the age of 81; as per his wishes
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molten wax in dingy workshops before dyeing them into he was cremated at Chakratirtha where a red sandstone chhatri
colourful bedsheets, dupattas and fabrics in striking maroon, (canopy) was erected. Other luminaries were also laid to rest
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green and blue hues. The traditional wax-resist dyeing in Ujjain. Near Bhartrihari Cave was the serene riverside
technique called dabu is more famously known as batik. samadhi of Matsyendranath, founder of the Nath Sampradaya,
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In his memoirs, Greek chronicler Ptolemy recorded that worshipped locally as ‘Peer Macchindra’.
“Behrugarh’s mallow-tinted cotton was shipped as far as Rome In the garden of Kalidasa Akademi, a figure of Kavi Kulguru
and was much coveted among Ozene’s (Ujjain’s) other major Kalidasa was seated under a dark cloud, a representation of
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exports of onyx, porcelain and fine muslins”. his elegiac poem Meghaduta (Cloud Messenger). Inside, there
We failed to locate the legendary tree near Gadhkalika were sculptures inspired by his other works, Vikramorvasiya
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Temple where Kalidasa was found cutting the branch he sat and Kumarasambhava. Ujjain occupies a prominent place
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on but spotted the devout hurling coins on the twin giant in the world of literature. The writings of Bhasa are set in
deepastambhas (lamp pillars) at the Harasiddhi Temple. The Ujjain; as is Shudraka’s play, Mrichchhakatika (The Little Clay
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prevailing belief is that if the coin doesn’t fall down, your Cart). Vikramaditya’s elder brother, Bhartrihari, lived and
wish will come true. After witnessing the evening aarti at meditated here, writing his Shringarshatak, Nitishatak and
Ram Ghat in Ujjain, we found ourselves in a serpentine Vairagyashatak here.
queue outside Mahakaleshwar Temple that shuffled For a brief period during the 18th century, Ujjain became
forward sluggishly. Yet, there was no irritation or impatience the capital of the Scindia state of the Maratha confederacy,
displayed by the devotees, who contrarily clapped and when Ranoji Scindia established his capital here in 1731,
sang happily. Chants of ‘Jai Mahakal’ rent the air as time though his successors moved it to Gwalior. We continued
stretched interminably. farther to Kothi Palace, a grand edifice planned during the
Mahakal is worshipped as the Controller of Time and the reign of Jiwaji Rao Scindia but built in 1887-88 after his
Destroyer of Elements. ‘Kaal’ denotes both ‘time’ and ‘space death by the British. A synthesis of European and Indian
as darkness’. Nothing lies beyond him, no dimensions, not styles—with Mughal and Rajput gate and windows, Maratha-
even time (kaal), which is why he is worshipped as maha kaal style courtyard and Gothic domes, it is currently used as
or ‘greater than time’. Since everything in this universe occurs administration offices. At Sai Palace Hotel near Mangalnath
in cycles in relation to time and space, believers throng to seek Temple we stopped to try the local staple, dal-bafla-laddu. The
Mahakal’s blessings to help attain moksha or liberation from turbaned steward welcomed us with a heart-warming litany,
the endless cycle of birth and rebirth. Hence, the practice of ‘Jitna chahe leyo thali mein, ye bekaar na jaaye naali mein (eat as
bhasmarti or worshipping the linga with ash! One must book a much as you want, but don’t waste any food)’, ending with the
slot online in advance to witness the early morning ritual, but customary greeting in these parts, “Jai Mahakal”. It was more
we were satisfied with a darshan of the powerful linga. than a salutation, it was hello, goodbye, see you again….

76 OCTOBER 2018
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Home to the Maha Kumbh that

takes place every 12 years,
Ujjain sees millions flock to the
holy grounds for a ritual dip in
the Kshipra river
The ghats of Ujjain are
always busy—whether
with pilgrims thronging
the steps, villagers
lounging in the sun, or
crafty sellers selling a
variety of ware

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DISCOVER
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Baba Mahakal’s
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Bhasmarti
A fascinating ritual
has been unfolding at
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Mahakal temple in the

dead of the night for
centuries. In the wee
hours of the morning,
after the jalabhisheka
of the linga with water,
milk, honey and curd,
it is anointed with
sandal and turmeric
paste, decorated
with bilvapatra (bael
leaves) and flowers
before performing
the bhasmarti with
ash. The chief priest
dramatically swings
and waves the pouch of
ash over the linga (in
the past ashes from the
night’s first cremated
pyre were used), as
clouds of ash shower
down, covering it in
grey dust.

78 OCTOBER 2018
 NAVIGATOR
GETTING THERE
The nearest airport is the Devi
Ahilyabai Holkar International Airport
in Indore, 56 km away.
WHERE TO STAY
Trolet Inn Homestay
7/64, University Road,
Ingle Compound

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Ph +91 98265 93004, 98931 17817
Hotel Kalpana Palace Ujjain
36, Hariphatak Road, Mahakal

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Marg, Ujjain
Ph +91-99266 77990, (0734) 556 022
hotelkalpanapalace.in

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INFO
Shree Mahakaleshwar Temple

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Jaisinghpura, Ujjain
Ph (0734) 2550 563
E-mail [email protected]
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www.mahakaleshwar.nic.in
www.mahakaleshwar.org.in
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Govt. Jiwaji Observatory

Chintaman Road, Jabsinghpura,
Ujjain
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Ph (0734) 2557 351

Email [email protected]
Timings Sunrise to 7 pm
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Entry Fee Adults `10, Students

`5, Foreigners `100
(Children below 6 free)
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Constellation Show 11 am-5 pm

(Adults `20, Children `10,
Foreigners `100)
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Kalidas Akademi
Kothi Road, University Road, Ujjain
Ph (0734) 2515 404
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TIP
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Book online for the bhasmarti.

Reservations open 15 days in
advance and 500 people are
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allowed darshan. Carry your ID

(PAN card not accepted) and bar-
coded printed tickets.
WHERE TO EAT
Grab a typical Malwa thali of dal-
bafla for `160 at Sai Palace near
Mangalnath Temple. Apna Sweets
serves dal-bafla thali on Sunday and
assorted snacks and namkeen.
WHEN TO GO
Kalidasa Akademi, a cultural
organisation dedicated to the life
Photography SHUTTERSTOCK and ALAMY

and works of Kalidasa, organises

Akhil Bhartiya Kalidas Samaroh in
Ujjain on Kartika Shukla Ekadashi
(Oct-Nov).
WHAT TO BUY
Batik and tie 'n' dye fabrics from
Behrugarh at Behrugarh Prints (Ph
+91 98276 41290, 98276 37337)
or Sana Enterprises (Ph +91 99075
16622, 98272 14700).
 Anchor
PEOPLE & PLACES

In The Footsteps

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Of The Mahatma

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taking a trip to some of the places that were part of his eventful life.
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80 OCTOBER 2018
 Statue of Mahatma Gandhi
at Veera Soudha Garden
in Belgaum city of Karnataka

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ohandas Karamchand Gandhi or Mahatma and a collection of a whopping 34,065 original letters to
Gandhi, born on October 2, 1869, at and from Gandhi. You can see some of his personal items at

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Porbandar, Gujarat, needs no introduction. Hridaya Kunj, which was his original residence and also check
The face of India’s freedom movement, out the extensive library that has over 21,500 books that take

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the Mahatma or ‘Great Soul’, as he was you up close to the life and times of the Mahatma.
known, fought for independence with a nonviolent stance
that has endeared him to the citizens of the country and Mani Bhavan Gandhi Sangrahalaya, Mumbai

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the world, not just during his life but even 70 years after his A memorial since 1955, this is where you can visit a museum,
death (on January 30, 1948). A pioneer, whose thoughts and see photographs of his life and also visit the library that has
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philosophies were far ahead of his time, his quote ‘be the over 40,000 books and periodicals. The first floor has an
change you want to see’ could not be more relevant than today. auditorium where films on Gandhi are screened, and you can
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Mahatma Gandhi’s birthday is also the International Day also listen to his voice on request—they even have recordings
of Nonviolence. of his speeches. You can also see his living room on the second
After studying law, he went to South Africa where he floor that has been preserved in its original form. Do take a
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spent 21 years, and it was there that he formed his political look at the Picture Gallery which has documents, posters, and
and ethical views. His role in India’s freedom struggle significant letters and articles written by Gandhi. Also spend
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began in 1915, and he was the face of the Non-Cooperation a moment on the terrace where Gandhi would sleep and hold
Movement and the famed Salt March. His repertoire of prayer sessions.
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writings, philosophy, teachings and belongings can be seen and

experienced at several museums and memorials across India. Anasakti Ashram, Kausani
Here are some places that are an ode to the man who is known Located in the quaint town of Kausani in Uttarakhand,
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as the ‘Father of the Nation.’ Anasakti Ashram or Gandhi Ashram is the place where Gandhi
stayed for two weeks in 1929. This is the place where he wrote
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Kirti Mandir, Porbandar on and practised Anasakti Yoga. The ashram is a kilometre
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Where better to start than at the place where Mahatma Gandhi away from the Kausani Bus Stand. Prayers are held in the
was born. On the first floor is the kitchen and bedroom of morning and evening at the ashram. The walls of the small
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his parents and his study is on the next floor. There are 22 museum here have many of Gandhi’s words and photographs.
rooms in all here that house a library with over 20,000 books The ashram is now a research and study centre with 24-room
(some of which are written by him), a prayer hall, a spinning accommodation and library. The facilities are basic and the
hall, nursery for children as well as a museum that has some food served is vegetarian—the idea being to provide an
rare pictures from his childhood. The temple complex has a experience of Gandhi’s simple lifestyle. Also known as the
planetarium where shows are held on a regular basis. Do check Geeta Anasakti Yog, the ashram was built by Gandhi’s disciple,
the panel of photographs that celebrates many historic events Sarla Ben.
in the country.
Aga Khan Palace, Pune
Sabarmati Ashram, Ahmedabad A white structure with lush green lawns and arches, the Aga
The nerve centre of India’s freedom struggle, and in a sense, Khan Palace in Pune is the place where Gandhi, Kasturba
the foundation where Gandhi formulated his philosophies of Gandhi and Mahadev Desai (his secretary) were imprisoned
truth and nonviolence, Sabarmati Ashram is located on the post the Quit India Movement in 1942. This is where
bank of the Sabarmati river, five km from the Ahmedabad City Kasturba and Mahadev Desai died, and a National Memorial,
Center. While the ashram was started in 1915 at the Kocharab with photos and paintings depicting Gandhi’s life is housed
Bungalow of Jivanlal Desai, it was shifted in 1917 to its current here. Located two km away from Bund Garden in Yerwada,
location, as Gandhi wanted a space where he could experiment Prince Karim Aga Khan donated the palace to the Gandhi
with khadi, farming, animal husbandry, cow breeding and other Samarak Samiti in 1972. Gandhi was kept here for 21 months
activities. The ashram now has the Gandhi Samarak Sangralaya and the film Gandhi was widely shot on location here. You

82 OCTOBER 2018
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Kirti Mandir in Porbandar is the place where Mahatma Gandhi was born. The temple complex today houses a library, a prayer hall, a museum and more;
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(below) visitors/residents at Sabarmati Ashram in Ahmedabad weaving khadi at the spinning wheel
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(From left) The pathway of the Gandhi Smriti Bhavan in New Delhi reminds us to follow in the footsteps of the Mahatma; Aga Khan Palace in Pune has
marble figurines of Mahatma Gandhi and Kasturba Gandhi on the premises
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can see Gandhi’s writing desk, bed, and Kasturba Gandhi’s Other Places
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sari, clothes and footwear that have been well preserved here. • Gandhi Memorial Museum, Madurai, built in 1959, is
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Old photographs of the independence movement can be where you can see part of the blood-stained garments
seen here. Marble memorials of Kasturba and the Mahatma worn by Gandhi when he was assassinated.
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designed by architect Charles Correa are on the premises,

• Gandhi Museum, Barrackpore, West Bengal, showcases
which were declared a monument of national importance by
artefacts that are a testament to Gandhi’s relationship with
the Archaeological Survey of India (ASI) in 2003. Free training
Bengal and its people.
in embroidery, candle making and chalk making is conducted
here regularly. • Gandhi Samarak Sangrahalaya, Patna, is a three-room
museum that has a Satyagraha Bhawan with a display of
Gandhi Smriti or Birla Bhavan, New Delhi charkhas and tools used by farmers.
Located on the Tees January Road in New Delhi, this is where • Dandi Kutir, Gandhinagar, is a three-storied museum
Gandhi spent the last 144 days of his life. This place is home that opened in 2015 and has a cable-stayed bridge and 79
to one of the largest museums dedicated to the Mahatma iconic sculptures and artworks.
and also has small doll houses depicting his life, some of his • Gandhi Bhavan in Bengaluru has many records from the
Photography SHUTTERSTOCK and ALAMY

personal belongings and a collection of over 6,000 original visit of the Mahatma in 1934 when he came to collect
pictures. A 30-minute multimedia show on Gandhi’s life is money for the Harijan Fund.
held every day at 1 pm. The library here has around 60,000
• Kasturba Gandhi Memorial Trust and Gram Seva Vikas
books and the surrounding bookshops sell books on Gandhi
Vidyalaya in Assam were inaugurated by Gandhi.
too. Gandhi Darshan is located close to the Gandhi Samadhi
He elucidated the need for khadi work here.
at Rajghat. The Spinning Wheel Gallery, Martyrdom Gallery,
The Entrance Gallery, Art Gallery and Ashram Gallery are • Mahatma Gandhi Digital Museum in Hyderabad uses
important aspects of this space. technology to display the works of the Mahatma.

84 OCTOBER 2018
 Spotlight
D U RGA P U JA

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SHUTTERSTOCK

Kolkata’s Biggest Cultural Festival

PEEK INTO THE PAST HOMECOMING SCRUMPTIOUS SPREADS UNIQUE RITUALS

Take A Trip Down Memory From Aristocratic Households Savour The Elaborate Bhog Distinct Age-Old Traditions
Lane To See How It Started To Ancient Homesteads Prepared In Bengali Style Steeped In Faith
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SHUTTERSTOCK.
 Spotlight

A GODDESS
COMES HOME
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Come October and the entire city of Kolkata becomes a magical celebration,
an exuberance of spirit. From humble homesteads to plush
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condominiums to working class neighbourhoods, everyone gears up
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to welcome Maa Durga in their own way.

Words & Photography SUGATO MUKHERJEE
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urga Puja in Kolkata is a religious festival, and (now a small neighbourhood at the southern tip of the city) is
much more. The metropolis transforms itself into perhaps the oldest family Durga Puja or it might even be the
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an open-air art gallery dotted with impossibly first organised Durga Puja of Bengal. The Roychowdhurys
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artistic pandals (temporary structures that house were the erstwhile zamindars of the land of what would later
Maa Durga and her children during the five days of Puja) become the grand metropolis of Calcutta and it was from this
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cast with canvas, clothes and bamboo. The interiors are often family that the British purchased three villages—Sutanuti,
decked up in art deco style and pandal-hopping is the favou- Gobindapur and Kalikata—and the urbanisation process began
rite way to soak in the artistic spirit during these five days. in the final decade of the 17th century. However, some of the
On the other end of the spectrum, far removed from historians believe that it was Raja Kanshanarayan of Taherpur
the sheen and vibrance of the neighbourhood festivals, the who started Durga Puja way back in the 17th century. But
aristocratic households (or Bonedi Bari as they are called in Durgotsav was still a small family affair for about a century.
Bengali) still preserve the orthodox ways of worship, starting The Battle of Plassey took place in 1757, which changed
from iconography to offerings in the expansive thakur dalan the course of history of Bengal and eventually, of India. In
or Durga dalan (corridor of worship). Once upon a time, they the conspiracy against Nawab Siraj-ud-Daulah, it is believed
were either rich zamindars of an undivided Bengal or affluent that a key player was Nabakrishna Deb, a close confidante of
trading merchants and business associates of the British rulers. Robert Clive. When the British East India Company took over
The owners of these grand residences led an opulent and of- the reins, Nabakrishna Deb would become a very influential
ten decadent lifestyle and the pomp and grandeur with which zamindar of Bengal and later be conferred the title of ‘Raja’ by
these families celebrated Durga Puja, became a part of the British.
city folklore. Raja Nabakrishna Deb, after the battle, built the famous
Sovabazaar Rajbari (now in North Kolkata) and started his
The Beginnings Durga Puja. History says that Lord Clive wanted a grand
Celebrated since 1610 at their ancestral home at Barisha, the thanksgiving ceremony but the only church in Calcutta had
Durgotsav of the family of Sabarana Roychowdhury of Barisha been razed to the ground by Siraj ud-Daulah during his attack

OCTOBER 2018 87
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KNOW BEFORE
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YOU GO
• The doors of many of these
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houses remain open for visitors

during the five-day celebrations
but please remember you are
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entering a family home and not

a tourist spot.
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• Do not use your camera

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without permission.
• The thakur dalan is for family
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members and their guests only.

• It is a religious festival, so a
modest dress code would be
appreciated inside the houses.
• If your visit coincides with a
ritual, do observe silence and
again, do not use your camera
without permission during
these ceremonies.

A courtyard hemmed in with

stately pillars becomes a
playground for the children
of the para (locality).
During the five-day festival,
the doors of the bonedi
homesteads remain open for
neighbours and visitors
88 OCTOBER 2018
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OCTOBER 2018
89
An important ritual where an
adolescent girl is worshipped
alongside the idol of Maa Durga;
(below) one of the rituals of Durgotsav
in bonedi families involves the women
of the family sitting with clay bowls
filled with burning frankincense

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a year earlier. Deb convinced Clive to offer his thanks at the scale. However, steeped in tradition and history, this ancient

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goddess’ feet at his grand residence during the Durga Puja. house is still a major draw during the five days of Durgotsav.
Deb’s Puja became a status symbol among the aristocratic

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and wealthy Bengali families of the time and eventually grew Laha Bari
into a major celebration. All the Bengali trading merchants The red brick houses of the Laha family of North Calcutta

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doing brisk business with the British built magnificent have been a prominent feature of the city’s traditional urbans-
mansions in Calcutta and started their own Durga Pujas, cape for more than two centuries and their Durgotsav, now
and an overabundance of ‘bonedi barir’ Pujas became a grand hosted in turns at different addresses by different branches of

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annual affair and talk of the town. the family, is as old. The clay idol of Durga differs from the
usual 10-armed slayer of Mahishasura. Here, Durga is seen sit-
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The Homesteads ting on Shiva’s lap. The ashtadhatu idol of the kuladevi (family
With the passage of time, the flamboyant abundance that deity) Jai Jai Ma is temporarily shifted from the family prayer
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was the high point of the festivities has faded but the archaic house to the thakur dalan during Durga Puja, where she is wor-
charm of the celebrations has been lovingly retained in these shipped along with Maa Durga.
ancient households. Maa Durga, in keeping with the religious
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tradition of Bengal, is perceived more as a daughter of the Khelat Ghosh’s House at Pathuriaghata
family and the festivities rivet around her annual homecoming Located in Pathuriaghata in the north of the city, this house
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from her abode in the Himalaya. that had belonged to the wealthy 19th century merchant,
Most of these 150-odd aristocratic homes have their own Babu Khelat Chandra Ghose, has arguably the grandest thakur
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thakur dalan (the courtyard of worship) where Durgotsav has dalan in the city. The majestic 30-yard-long marble corridor
been carried on for 150 to 300 years. The idols are placed in resplendent with ornate statuettes and the grand dancing hall
the middle of the thakur dalan on an elevated platform with an is awe-inspiring. The tradition of offering homemade sweets
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ornate semi-circular backdrop called the chalchitra. Inside the to Maa Durga is unique to this Ghosh family Puja.
private quarters of these bonedi bari, the annual homecoming
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of Maa Durga is not simply a souvenir from a golden past but a Jorasanko Dawn House
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revered inheritance brimming with emotions. A successful trader, Gokul Chandra Daw started Durgotsav
in 1840. His descendants built up a colliery and made a major
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Sabarana Roychowdhurys’ House at Barisha contribution to construction of railway tracks across India. Tra-
The red pillars that dot the flanks of the walkway leading to ditionally, gold ornaments along with emeralds and diamonds
the Durga dalan are silent witnesses to a momentous event which were brought over from Europe are used to decorate
in Calcutta’s history—the deed for the transfer of Sutanati, Maa Durga, her companions and also the chalchitra—a custom
Gobindapur and Kalikata is said to have been executed here that spawned city folklore that Maa Durga comes to wear her
at the Atchala (eight-roofed structure typical of Bengali temple jewellery at the Jorasanko Dawn House. The house is immac-
architecture). The family has branched out for many years ulately maintained and a spectacular ritual on Vijaya Dashami,
now, each branch with their own Durga Puja celebrations. But the last day of the celebrations, draws visitors from far and
the one most famous is the family’s original Atchala Puja from near to this grand residence.
1610 that antedates the city itself.
Rani Rashmoni’s House at Janbazar
Sovabazaar Rajbari At a time when zamindari was primarily a male bastion, Rani
Started by Raja Nabakrishna Deb in 1757, the Durgotsav at Rashmoni, a remarkable lady in the early 19th century, was a
Sovabazaar Rajbari was known for the pompous musical soi- glorious exception. The founder of the Dakshineshwar Kali
rees on the Puja evenings. The guest list included the who’s temple and known for charity, Rani Rashmoni started Durgot-
who of Calcutta and the auspicious Sandhi Puja was always sav at her Janbazar residence in central Calcutta. The festival
performed to the sound of cannon fire. The Debs’ Durga Puja has been carried on for the last 150 years by the families of her
now has two addresses on the same street, hosted by the two daughters and remains one of the best examples of Durga Puja
branches of the Deb family and observed on a much subdued in its purest form.

OCTOBER 2018 91
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(Clockwise from left) The day of Rath Yatra is the start-off point of Durga Puja in many houses. In an ancient courtyard the family chariot is being
pulled by family members; women of a family dressed in traditional attire coming out of the private quarters to welcome the goddess; the
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festive season often starts with a fresh coat of paint to enliven the celebrations
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OCTOBER 2018 93
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(This page) An elaborate spread of the bhog in a chamber behind the thakur dalan;
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Dutta Bari at Girish Park Badan Chandra Roy House, Colootola

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Initiated in 1882 by Shyamal Dhan Dutta, a solicitor in the The house of Badan Chandra Roy’s family at Colootola, in
High Court, the puja is carried out by his descendants. A central Calcutta seems in a time warp as you enter the beauti-
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stickler for ancient rituals that start with the Chandipath on the ful mansion from the whirlwind of chaos that surrounds it.
auspicious day of Mahalaya to the final day of Vijaya Dashami One of the immaculately maintained residences of Calcutta’s
when members of the family carry the idols on bamboos to the old town, it houses the 170-year-old Durgotsav. The embowed
river bank for immersion, the Durgotsav in this stately home- thakur dalan is fronted by a courtyard dotted with beautifully
stead is also known for its philanthropic overtures—poor and arranged pillars embellished with ornate lamps at the top. A
homeless people are served khichuri on Vijaya Dashami by the staunch Vaishnavite household, the Puja feasts of the Roy fam-
family members. ily mostly involve traditional vegetarian delicacies.

Baishnabdas Mullick House, Pathuriaghata Purnendu Dhar House

It is not often that you find a house where nine generations Another Vaishnavite house in the same locality is the majestic
of the family have lived under the same roof. The Mullicks homestead of Purnendu Chandra Dhar, and the chief attrac-
of Pathuriaghata, whose forefathers made a fortune in the jew- tion of this family Durgotsav is the way the goddess is wor-
ellery business, have continued their Durgotsav shipped here. Instead of being in her conventional avatar of
for about 240 years. The palatial mansion is spread across mahishasurmardini (demon-slayer), Maa Durga is worshipped
three wings and you can get a glimpse of the laidback charm here as Abhaya Durga, a deity who assures her devotees of
of an orthodox Bengali household during the festival in a peaceful world, and in this avatar, the seated idol has two
the outer courtyard where family members and guests en- hands instead of 10. Maa is surrounded by her children and
gage in animated adda as various rituals are observed at the her handmaidens and a couple of lions timidly seated at her
thakur dalan. feet complete the picture.

94 OCTOBER 2018
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the Visarjan ceremony (immersion of the idols in the holy Ganga) is a colourful affair with smearing of faces with vermilion powder and impromptu dances
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The Holy Feast (Bhog) idols of the deities in the thakur dalan, usually by the same
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An important part of the Bonedi Barir Puja is the bhog offered artisan who has been at the job for many decades, a legacy
to Maa Durga and her children. A mouth-watering assortment passed on to him by his father.
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of sweets and savouries is usually the staple fare of edibles, An important ritual at the start of the Puja is the bath of the
but in some of these houses it is a more intimate affair, which banana leaves (Navapatrika snaan) that usually takes place at
emphasises the fact that the goddess is a member of the one of the many ghats lining the Ganga on the western flank of
family. In some, the bhog is an elaborate spread of buttered Calcutta. On Maha Ashtami, a rather gory ritual of animal sac-
rice and pulao or khichuri, an assortment of fried vegetables rifice used to be a high point till a few decades ago, which has
and curries, and traditional fish preparations—all cooked in been thankfully done away with in most houses. The ritual is
orthodox Bengali style. The Maha Bhog always ends on a now marked by the symbolic sacrifice of vegetables, or in some
sweet note with payesh (rice pudding) and a delectable array cases, of curious sugar structures. Another important ritual is of
of sweetmeats. deifying an adolescent girl and worshipping her alongside Maa
Durga. A custom practised on Maha Ashtami mornings in some
Rites And Rituals of the old merchant families is when the women of the family
The unique rituals related to Durgotsav start with Kathamo sit with clay bowls filled with burning frankincense in their
Puja (worshipping the wooden structure that houses Maa Dur- hands and on their heads, facing the goddess. The ancient
ga and her companions for five days) in the grand residences. tradition of freeing Neelkanth (the Indian Roller) birds, as the
This usually happens around Ratha Yatra in July and often forerunners bearing the news of Durga’s departure for Kailash
assumes spectacular proportions when, as part of the ritual, to Lord Shiva on Vijaya Dashami, was banned by the Wildlife
womenfolk pull the huge family chariot (ratha) in the court- Preservation Act a few years ago. Clay models of the birds
yard of the Dawn family residence at Jorasanko. The festive are now worshipped alongside Maa Durga’s idol and are later
season begins and it is mostly the custom to sculpt the clay freed symbolically.

OCTOBER 2018 95
 Frame Work
A MOMENT IN THE LIFE OF INDIA

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GUTS & GOATS

Moments before their early morning grazing expedition, two Pashmina goats take stance to lock horns for a playful battle. In an
attempt to intimidate the other, rather nonchalant one, and gain headway into his head butt, the “big guy” takes a jump and a
leap in the air before coming down hard. The Changthangi, or Pashmina goat, is a breed endemic to the Himalaya. They are bred
by the hardy nomadic Changthangi tribe of Ladakh for their ultra-fine undercoat, Pashm. The fine and delicate Pashm is then
hand-spun and woven by skilled artisans to create the silken art called the Pashmina.

PHOTOGRAPHER OF THE MONTH

HIMMAT RANA
Over 3,000 km trekked and five states traversed, Himmat is on a mission to explore, learn and share the mystery that is India.

96 OCTOBER 2018
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