C H A P T E R TEN

STOCKS AND SAUCES

“ What I love about cooking is that after a hard day, there is

something comforting about the fact that if you melt butter and add flour,

”
then hot stock, it will get thick! It’s a sure thing. It’s a sure thing in the
world where nothing is sure!
– Nora Ephron, American author and filmmaker (1941 - )

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On Cooking: A Textbook of Culinary Fundamentals, 5e
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Labensky • Hause • Martel
After studying this unit 2

STOCK AND SAUCES

 You will be able to:
– Prepare a variety of sauces
– Recognize and classify sauces
– Use thickening agents properly
– Prepare a variety of classic and modern sauces

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Stock 3

STOCK AND SAUCES

 A flavored liquid
 A good stock is the key to a great soup, sauce or
braised dish
 The French appropriately call a stock fond (base),
as stock is the basis for many classic and modern
dishes

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Labensky • Hause • Martel
Types of Stock 4

STOCK AND SAUCES

 White stock
– Raw bones and vegetables simmered in water with
seasonings
 Brown stock
– Bones and vegetables that have first been browned then
simmered in water with seasonings
 Fish stock or fumet
– Fish bones or crustacean shells cooked slowly with
vegetables and seasonings in water
 Court bouillon
– Vegetables and seasonings simmered in water with an
acidic liquid such as vinegar or wine

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Ingredients in Stock 5

STOCK AND SAUCES

 Bones
– Beef, veal, chicken, fish

 Lamb, turkey, game, ham

 Mirepoix
– Mixture of 50% onions, 25% carrots and 25% celery by
weight
 Seasonings
– Principally peppercorns, bay leaves, thyme, parsley
stems and, optionally, garlic
 Do not add salt

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Mirepoix 6

STOCK AND SAUCES

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Labensky • Hause • Martel
Principles of Stock Making 7

STOCK AND SAUCES

 Start the stock in cold water
 Simmer the stock gently
 Skim the stock frequently
 Strain the stock carefully
 Cool the stock quickly
 Store stock properly
 Degrease the stock

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Labensky • Hause • Martel
SAFETY ALERT-
Cooling and Handling Stock 8

STOCK AND SAUCES

 A two-stage cooling method is recommended for
keeping stock out of the temperature danger zone
 First, cool the stock from 135°to 70°F (52°C-21°C)
within 2 hours
 Second, reduce the temperature from 70°F to
below 41°F (21°C to below 5°C) in an additional 4
hours, for a total of 6 hours

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Labensky • Hause • Martel
White Stock 9

STOCK AND SAUCES

 Neutral stock made from beef, veal or chicken
bones
 Blanching bones
– Wash and cut up bones, place them in a
stockpot and cover with cold water
– Bring the water to a boil over high heat
– As soon as the water comes to a boil, skim the
rising impurities; drain the water from the bones
and discard
– Refill the pot with cold water and proceed with
the stock recipe

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Brown Stock 10

STOCK AND SAUCES

 Made from chicken, veal, beef or game bones
 Caramelizing
– Do not blanch the bones
– Place the cut up bones in a roasting pan one
layer deep; it is better to roast several pans of
bones than to overfill one pan
– Roast the bones for approximately 1 hour in a
hot oven, 375°F; stirring occasionally, brown
the bones thoroughly, but do not allow them to
burn
– Transfer the roasted bones from the pan to the
stockpot
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Caramelizing the Bones 11

STOCK AND SAUCES

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Brown Stock (cont.) 12

STOCK AND SAUCES

 Deglazing the pan
– Place the pan on the stove top over medium
heat; add enough water to cover the bottom of
the pan approximately ½ inch deep
– Stir and scrape the pan bottom to dissolve and
remove all the caramelized materials while the
water heats
– Pour the deglazing liquid over the bones in the
stock pot

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Deglazing the Pan 13

STOCK AND SAUCES

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Brown Stock (cont.) 14

STOCK AND SAUCES

 Caramelizing mirepoix
– Add a little of the reserved fat from the roasted
bones to the roasting pan after it has been
deglazed
– Sauté the mirepoix, browning the vegetables
well and evenly without burning them
– Add caramelized mirepoix to stockpot

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Caramelizing Mirepoix 15

STOCK AND SAUCES

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Labensky • Hause • Martel
Fish Stock and Fumet 16

STOCK AND SAUCES

 Made with the bones and heads of fish and
crustacean shells
 Oily fish are not generally used
 Bones are not blanched, due to loss of flavor
 Fumets differ from stock because they are strongly
flavored and contain an acidic ingredient such as
white wine or lemon juice
 Require less time than other stocks; 35 to 40
minutes is usually sufficient to extract full flavor

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Vegetable Stock 17

STOCK AND SAUCES

 Should be clear and light colored
 Contains no gelatin and has little body
 May be used as a substitute for meat stocks in
vegetarian dishes
 Strongly flavored vegetables from the cruciferous
family or those that are bitter should be avoided
 Potatoes and other starchy vegetables will cloud
the stock and should be avoided

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Commercial Bases 18

STOCK AND SAUCES

 Powder or paste flavoring added to water; used to
replace stock
 Even the best base is a poor substitute for a well-
made stock
 Bases vary greatly in quality and price
 Sodium (salt) is the main ingredient in many bases

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Court Bouillon 19

STOCK AND SAUCES

 Commonly used to poach fish and shellfish
 A flavored liquid, usually water and wine or
vinegar, in which vegetables and seasonings have
been simmered to impart their flavors and aromas
 Not actually stock, but prepared in the same
manner
 Nage-aromatic court bouillon served as its own
sauce

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Glaze 20

STOCK AND SAUCES

 A dramatically reduced stock
 1 gallon of stock produces 1 to 2 cups of glaze
– Glace de viande is made from brown stock
– Glace de volaille is made from white stock

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Sauces 21

STOCK AND SAUCES

 With a few exceptions, a sauce is a liquid plus
thickening agent plus seasonings
 Follow these procedures for fine sauce making:
1. Make good stocks
2. Use thickening agents properly to achieve the
desired texture, flavor and appearance
3. Use seasonings properly to achieve the desired
flavors

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Thickening Agents 22

STOCK AND SAUCES

 Roux is the principal means used to thicken
sauces
 Roux is a combination of equal parts, by weight, of
flour and fat
– White roux
Cooked only briefly, used in white sauces
– Blond roux
Cooked slightly longer to take on a little
color, used in ivory-colored sauces
– Brown roux
Cooked until it develops a darker color and a
nutty aroma, used in brown sauces

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White, Blonde and Brown Roux 23

STOCK AND SAUCES

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Incorporating Roux into
Liquid 24

STOCK AND SAUCES

 There are two ways to incorporate roux into a
liquid without causing lumps
– Cold stock can be added to hot roux while
stirring vigorously with a whisk
– Room-temperature roux can be added to hot
stock while stirring vigorously with a whisk

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Guidelines for Using Roux 25

STOCK AND SAUCES

 Use heavy nonreactive pot to prevent scorching
and discoloring.
 Roux should not be cooler than room temperature
when combined with liquid.
 Avoid over thickening. Roux does not thicken a
sauce until almost boiling.

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Other Thickening Agents 26

STOCK AND SAUCES

 Cornstarch
– Slurry
 Arrowroot
 Beurre manié
 Liaison
 Emulsification
– Permanent
– Semipermanent or temporary

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Sauce Families 27

STOCK AND SAUCES

 Leading, grand or mother sauces are the foundation for
the entire classic repertoire of hot sauces

 The five leading sauces

– Béchamel
– Velouté
– Espagnole (brown)
– Tomato
– Hollandaise

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Béchamel Family 28

STOCK AND SAUCES

 Cream
 Cheese
 Mornay
 Nantua
 Soubise

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The Velouté Family 29

STOCK AND SAUCES

 Fish sauces  Allemande sauces
– Bercy – Aurora
– Cardinal – Horseradish
– Normandy – Mushroom
– Poulette
 Suprême sauces
– Albufera
– Hungarian
– Ivory

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Espagnole (Brown Sauce) 30

STOCK AND SAUCES

 Demi-glace and – Marchand de vin
Jus Lié – Mushroom
– Bordelaise – Périgueux
– Chasseur – Piquant
– Châteaubriand – Poivrade
– Chevreuil – Robert
– Madeira or port Charcutière

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The Tomato Sauce Family 31

STOCK AND SAUCES

 Creole
 Spanish
 Milanaise

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The Hollandaise Family 32

STOCK AND SAUCES

 Béarnaise
 Choron
 Foyot
 Grimrod
 Maltaise
 Mousseline (Chantilly sauce)

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SAFETY ALERT – Handling
Emulsified Butter Sauces 33

STOCK AND SAUCES

 Emulsified butter sauces must be held at
temperatures conducive to bacterial growth
– Always use clean, sanitized utensils
– Prepare sauce close to service time
– Never hold Hollandaise-based-sauces more
than 1 ½ hours.
– Never mix an old batch with a new batch of
sauce

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Butter in Sauce 34

STOCK AND SAUCES

 Compound butter
 Monter au beurre
 Beurre blanc
 Beurre rouge

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Other Sauces 35

STOCK AND SAUCES

 Pan gravy
 Pan sauces
 Coulis
 Contemporary sauces
– Salsa and relish
– Vegetable juice and essence
– Broth
– Flavored oils

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Labensky • Hause • Martel