STANDARD OPERATING PROCEDURES: ROCK CLIMBING

Definition and Scope of Activities

Locations range from mountains, quarries, sea cliffs to roadside crags which can be either
accessed by road or are located remotely.

The major activities covered within this section are as follows:

 rock climbing (open or artificial).

 bouldering
 abseiling
 Multi pitch rock climbing
 traversing using via – ferrata.

PRECAUTIONS TO MINIMISE HAZARDS

It is essential that the Standard Operating Procedures are followed and that personnel leading the
Group fully brief the group to pay attention to hazard warning information, remain in control of the
activity and follow accredited tuition and activity progression.

The specific hazards identified above are not exhaustive and additional hazards or combinations
may arise during the course of an activity necessitating ongoing attention to minimise or control
the risk(s) to a manageable level.
SEASONAL CONSTRAINTS
Climbing activities can take place all year. The normal accepted season for climbing is where
summer conditions are present but the presence of snow/ice on a route deems the classification
of risk to be winter. A slight 'dusting' of snow or occasional patches of snow is acceptable
providing the snow conditions are not worsening. Furthermore where underfoot conditions may
lead to a slip resulting in a downhill slide, conditions may be deemed as winter and winter
qualifications would be required to lead a group in this terrain.

LOCATION CONSTRAINTS

Use of remote high mountain plateaus in winter conditions should be avoided with participants
under 16 years of age.

TUITION RATIOS

The tuition ratios are:

1 Leader to 8 participants
Note: The above ratio can be increased to 1:12 where the participants are deemed
competent: for example hold N.I.C.A.S 2 award, where the leader is in a supervising role.
Note: the above ratio should also be decreased when working with very young children
or with participants of additional support needs. Consult the technical advisor where
necessary.
1 Leader to 3 participants where multi-pitch rock/snow/ice climbing is involved

TUITION LEADER QUALIFICATIONS

All leaders must hold valid first aid certificate

Minimum qualifications

Indoor climbing C.W.A

Outdoor climbing (single pitch) S.P.A
Outdoor climbing (multi pitch) M.I.A
Winter climbing M.I.C

The National Governing Bodies contact data relevant to this section are as follows:

 Mountain Leader Training – www.mltuk.org

EQUIPMENT – PARTICIPANTS

All participants must have access to clothing appropriate to conditions, harness and helmet and,
dependent on location, food/ drink, warm clothing windproof/waterproof/protective and an
emergency bivi bag.
EQUIPMENT – GROUP SAFETY

Additional equipment to be considered depending on location / conditions:

 watch
 first aid supplies
 OS map (1:50000 scale)/compass
 hot drink or means of making one
 emergency rations
 group emergency shelter or tent
 torch

ACCESS/ENVIRONMENT

As locations are mountain based there may be access restrictions due to land use. Access
permission should follow national access codes of practice

Mountains and coastal cliffs often provide an important habitat for nesting birds and species of
moss/alpines not normally found at lower levels. Groups should exercise care to reduce
unnecessary disturbance and damage from overuse of specific sites.
 RISK ASSESSMENT ASSESSMENT REF NO: Climbing 1

Activity: Generic Rock climbing and Abseil Location: Various Assessor: DS, JL
(single pitch)

Hazard Who might be Existing controls Risk Further actions

Target date dd-mm-yy

harmed?

New Residual Risk

What makes the hazard less risky? Avoid

Completion Date
What makes these controls effective? Control at source

Responsibility
Probability
Take advantage of technology

Severity
Leader

Rating
Public
Protect all

Client

Score
Make what you have more effective

Slip / Trip / Fall from height x x x Robust safety brief / appropriate 2 3 6 None
equipment / use of pen ropes if
needed / Adequate supervision of
group
None
Slip / Trip / Fall normal x x x Robust safety brief / appropriate 2 3 6
conditions equipment

None
Falling Rock / objects x x x Helmets to be worn when required, 2 5 10
area to be checked for loose objects,
items secured at top of cliff

Anchor Failure x x Qualified staff using sound judgement 1 5 5 Staff to use ‘info log’ to pass information
to select suitable anchors about changes to venue

Falling from top while setting x Instructor to use appropriate safety 1 5 5 Continued CPD and peer appraisals to
up systems avoid complacency and skill fade

None
Hair /Clothing or body part x x All loose clothing and accessories are 2 2 4
catching on equipment put away, tied or removed
Crag fast climber/stuck x x Appropriate route choice 2 1 3 Instructor to use skills to rescue if needed
climber

None
Loss of group control in x x x Use of support staff / pen ropes etc 1 5 5
hazardous area

None
Body part / equipment / x x Clothes and equipment checked for 1 4 4
clothing trapped in rock snag hazards / robust safety brief on
climbing techniques, appropriate route
choice

Poor student belaying x x Use of suitable back up systems for 3 5 15 Continued CPD
novice belayers.

Leaders to use judgement of

competency before removing backup
systems or remotely supervising.

Further actions approved by: Signature: Date:

Urgency of Action = (20>Very High) (16-20 High) (9-15 Moderate) (4-8 Low) (1-3 Very Low)
Severity = 1. Damage 2. Minor Injury 3. +3 Days/Hospitalised 4. Major Injury/Permanent Disability 5. Fatality Review Date: April 2018
Probability = 1. Very Unlikely 2. Unlikely 3. Fairly Likely 4. Likely 5. Very Likely