Plasticulture

Farming for Everybody

The Small Farmer’s Guide to Producing

High Yields With Modest Resources

Otis Lester Bray

 Plasticulture
Farming for Everybody

The Small Farmer’s Guide to Producing High

Yields With Modest Resources

Otis Lester Bray

© Plasticulture 2017
Table of Contents
Preface 1
Recognizing the Opportunity 4
The Land 6
The Five-Acre Growing Site 8
What is Plasticulture? Why Does it Work? 10
Marketing 12
Finding Your Water Source 13
Designing the Irrigation System 14
Choosing Your Plastic Mulch 16
Choosing Your Fertilizer 17
Choosing Your Seed 19
Required Tools and Equipment 23
Controlling Nuisance Animals 25
Using Transplants 26
Succession Planting 27
The Crops 28
An Alternative to the Five-Acre Plan 46
Containers and Storage 49
Weed and Grass Control 50
The Money Thing 51
Some Money Saving Tips 53
Disease and Insect Control 54
Closing Thoughts 56
Be Joyful and Thankful 57
Further Reading 58
Acknowledgements 59

About the Author 60

Preface

Our Creator provided a plan for feeding all living creatures. He also gave
us the ability to adapt and create new methods of producing food as we
experience changes in our world.
Across our nation, growers of food crops are faced with the prospect of
providing more food with dwindling resources – primarily water and good,
fertile land. We are being told that the world’s food needs will double by the
year 2050. Unfortunately, our current system of growing crops on large farms
in centralized areas of the nation and transporting those crops thousands
of miles to reach buyers is both inefficient and wasteful. It also requires
enormous amounts of fuel and adds to the carbon footprint.
Plasticulture farming, however, offers an opportunity to transcend these
problems. Though the specific opportunities offered in this plasticulture
farming plan are limited in scope and apply primarily to my local area, the
Piedmont region of Georgia, they are still extremely valuable. At the very
least, they will afford improvements in our diet and provide income for
many of our citizens, if properly implemented.
First, I must draw your attention to a group of dedicated, hard-working folks
who have modeled a successful food growing plan for local food banks,
children’s homes, and women and children shelters. They have also provided
countless meals for the homeless, all using the plasticulture methods
described in this book.

1
I’m talking about the Fayette County, Georgia chapter of Plant-A-Row for
the Hungry (PAR), which is embedded within the Fayette County Master
Gardeners group. Nine years ago, I was invited to join this group to teach
plasticulture growing methods. Concurrently with my invitation, the New
Hope Baptist Church in North Fayette County offered the use of a planting
site that had been grassland for twenty-five years and offered access to a 45
gallon-per-minute (GPM) well.
On this one-acre site, the PAR group has managed to produce 20,000+
pounds of typical seasonal produce each year. The “secret” to these incredible
yields is plasticulture farming. We have proven many times that our
plasticulture system works, even with a limited water supply. Thanks to
the PAR’s good work, they have been widely recognized and, as a result, a
number of “satellite” PAR gardens have appeared locally and in adjoining
counties. This, of course, is a wonderful thing!
Another dimension of this story began when the Pearson Farm in Fort
Valley, Georgia volunteered to join the effort. Pearson Farm has donated
35,000 pounds of peaches to the PAR’s distribution each year since 2010,
proving once again that when God opens one door through which we can
serve, if we step through, He will open another!

2
I have been blessed to be able to share this information with a number of
individuals and growers over the years. In the process, I have made a large
number of wonderful friends. As I approach my 88th birthday, the time has
come to write it all down. This book should be seen as an attempt to provide
a clear picture of the plasticulture process – how it works, why it works, and
how you can use it to start an income-producing produce farm.
I also offer as much information as possible to support plasticulture’s
implementation in an environment of modest land availability and water
resources. The plan is simple in design, easy to execute, and can be used in
many different settings to improve yield and growth.

3
Recognizing the Opportunity

After fifty years of working with plasticulture methods, I am convinced that

we have an opportunity in the Georgia Piedmont to combine two largely
unrecognized assets to produce a significant amount of fresh, wholesome
food for our communities.
1. Thousands of acres of fallow, sterile grassland
2. The limited, but dependable, water contained within the
subterranean granite layer that runs throughout this region
For these fifty years, I have focused on adapting a workable plasticulture
farming plan for all of the most common vegetable crops planted in the
Georgia Piedmont. The process can be used extensively to grow tomatoes,
melons, peppers, and many other foods loved throughout the United States.
After helping dozens of growers and backyard gardeners adapt plasticulture
methods in all kinds of settings, I’ve come to understand the value of sterile,
fallow land. After returning to land that I farmed twenty-five years ago,
planting crops, and witnessing the eye-opening improvements in health and
yield for every single plot, I became convinced that an opportunity exists.
I first became interested in plasticulture farming in the mid-1960s when
the materials first became available. Although my chosen profession was the
aircraft engine business (50 years), I have always had a high level of interest
in farming and have farmed on a part-time basis all of my adult life. I have

4
worked to develop methods that allow growers to produce most of our local
food crops using plasticulture. Among other benefits, the methods allow us
to properly manage a limited water supply for maximum yield.
By focusing on our dependable underground water sources and our large,
vacant tracts of underused grasslands (pastures, mainly) that are free of soil
diseases, I developed the plan that follows in this book.

5
The Land

When we discontinued the production of cotton after World War II, much
of our open land was converted to pasture and continues to be used that way
today. After 150 years of growing cotton, the land was contaminated with
wilt, blight, and other soil diseases. Planting small grains and grass was –
and continues to be – the best and easiest way to cleanse the diseased land.
After decades of being dedicated to grass, this land is as sterile as it was
when the first settlers arrived.
I am convinced that finding sterile land is, on the whole, more valuable than
finding fertile land. We can add fertility, but only nature can restore sterility.
Nowadays, we have thousands of acres of underused, sterile pastureland.
In this area, we also stand every day on top of a very large reservoir of fresh,
pure water that is trapped in cracks and fissures in a subterranean layer of
granite. This water-containing rock layer spans territory from the fall line in
Middle/South Georgia to the Appalachian mountain chain.
In a patch of land, we find several inches of topsoil and some 50 feet of hard
red clay. Between the clay and the granite is usually an area of wet sand and
gravel where the water is collecting on top of the granite before it works its
way into the cracks in the layer beneath. These cracks are inter-connected
and filled with water.
The existence of these thousands of acres of fallow, sterile, unused pasture
and other grasslands, plus the limited but dependable water supply trapped

6
in the cracks of the underground granite, offers many opportunities to begin
a productive and risk-free growing operation in the Georgia Piedmont area.
As a result, we can more effectively supply the food we will need in the years
to come.

7
The Five-Acre Growing Site

Before getting into the “how” and “why” of plasticulture, let’s take a moment
to discuss the framework I use throughout this text – a framework defined
by a hypothetical five-acre produce-growing site with a 15 GPM (or more)
water source.
Using this five-acre framework, we’ll consider a long-season plan to support
a market, farm-to-table operation, CSA boxes, non-profit community
gardens, and backyard growers – all through plasticulture farming, of course.
The five-acre growing site should provide significant seasonal produce from
mid-May to the first freeze. And yes, it’s a large enough growing site to
support a sustainable, profit-generating family farm!
The cultural information discussed for the five-acre plan is universal
regardless of whether one adopts the plan in full or just in part. The plan is
labor intensive, and the implementation of the full five acres would require
2-3 people for the fieldwork during peak growing times. My best guess is
that 2000 man-hours of fieldwork would be needed during the season.
The scope of each planting will largely be controlled by the availability of
the needed labor. Some facts that need to be considered in the decision to
follow this plan are:
• If you match the yields of the PAR garden, the retail value of
that yield will equal 150% of the gross income derived from
100 acres of soybeans, 100 acres of cotton, or 100 acres of
corn as calculated from current commodity prices multiplied
by average state yields.

8
• The required equipment costs are much lower and the risk
of crop failure is extremely low if the cultural practices are
properly executed.
• Offering quality produce for sale is a recession-proof business
and is not exposed to the fluctuations of commodity prices.
• The opportunity to convert small tracts of unused, sterile
pastureland to the growing of produce can improve the diet
and financial status of many of our citizens.
• This plan is tailored to the Georgia Piedmont because it is
the area with which I am most familiar. It is also based on
conventional farming practices because those are the only
methods I know; however, I would expect that an experienced
organic grower could perform the necessary conversions and
substitutions using the data provided.
• The divisions of planting space and times are based on proven
production capabilities and harvest windows.
• Several of these crops have relatively low profit margins due
to labor costs. However, it’s important to note that having
certain produce in your mix (corn, okra, beans) will bring
customers into your market to buy your tomatoes, which is
your best chance to be really profitable. In other words, okra
might be more profitable than it looks!

9
What is Plasticulture? Why Does it Work?

Plasticulture farming is practiced extensively in all regions of the United

States. Tomatoes, peppers, melons, strawberries, and other vine crops are
grown on plastic mulch.
The process consists of laying a 1 millimeter-thick plastic sheet (usually
4’ wide) over a prepared, fertilized planting bed with an 8 millimeter, 5/8”
fabricated drip tube underneath to provide moisture. Transplants and/or
seeds are planted through holes punched or cut in the plastic and allowed to
grow for the entire season.
It is my observation that most crops subject to plasticulture methods will
experience a two to three-fold yield increase over those planted using
conventional methods.
Before going any further, we must first establish an understanding of
why plasticulture farming works and the several advantages of using it in
conjunction with drip irrigation:
• Earlier crops: A significant benefit of plasticulture is increased
soil temperature in the planting bed, which promotes faster
crop development and earlier yields. Black plastic mulch can
move the harvest time up by 7 to 14 days.
• Reduced evaporation: Plastic reduces soil water loss. As
a result, more uniform soil moisture is maintained. Plant
growth on mulch can be twice that of unmulched soil.

10
 • Fewer weeds: Black-on-black and white-on-black mulches
reduce light penetration to the soil, so weeds cannot generally
survive under the mulch.
• Reduced soil compaction: The soil under the plastic mulch
remains loose, friable, and well aerated. Roots have access to
adequate oxygen and microbial activity is enhanced.
• Root pruning is eliminated: Cultivation is eliminated,
except for the area between the mulched strips. Weed growth
in these areas can be controlled by cultivation or use of an
herbicide.
• Cleaner products: The edible product from a mulched bed is
cleaner and less likely to rot because no soil is splashed onto
the plant or fruit.
• Increased carbon dioxide levels: Research has shown
that high levels of carbon dioxide, which is necessary for
photosynthesis, may build up under the plastic. Because the
film does not allow the gas to escape easily, it has to sneak
out through the holes punched for the plants. A “chimney
effect” is achieved, resulting in abundant carbon dioxide for
the actively growing leaves.
• Prevents fertilizer leaching: On unprotected soil, heavy rain
can cause fertilizer to migrate below the root zone. Plastic
mulch protects the loose, friable soil and keeps the fertilizer
in place.
Now that we understand the “why” and “how” of plasticulture, it’s time to
discuss the cultural practices, equipment, and components needed to allow
the plasticulture process to work. We must also consider the planting dates,
allocation of planting space, and detailed information on the management of
specific crops. In so doing, we can facilitate a planting process that provides
a continuous supply of produce for a market.

11
Marketing

I have no specific training in marketing; however, I have witnessed a number

of successful small farm operations and can share my observations.
For starters, you must be located where you will have a sufficient number
of potential customers. A busy highway or a residential area is best. From
there, you can establish your off-site market, farm-to-table operation, and/
or provide CSA boxes.
Keep in mind that you need to sell your produce at near-retail prices. The
high level of interest we are currently experiencing in locally grown produce
should provide you with an opportunity to charge 85-95% of grocery store prices.
To attract customers and keep them coming back, sell only top-grade produce
and stick with an established price throughout the season. If you have edible
lower-grade produce, donate it to your local food bank or shelters. Even if it
won’t sell, it can still provide someone with a meal.
Try to always have the most popular items in stock at all times. If you have
to, purchase “fill-in” items from the local wholesale farmers’ market or from
other growers to keep popular items on the shelves. It will pay off. Popular
items in this region include tomatoes, corn, melons, summer squash, okra,
cucumbers, peppers, eggplant, and any other items that happen to be popular
where you live.

12
Finding Your Water Source

Hydrologists tell us it takes 300 to 600 years for rainwater falling on top of
the ground to work its way into what will ultimately become our preferred
water source for crops. The total water content in the subterranean granite
layer is so enormous that it is hard to comprehend.
We have no aboveground method of determining the location of the
cracks from which we can extract this water. To find the water, we use a
trial-and-error method of drilling a six-inch hole into the granite with the
goal of hitting a crack that is wide enough to provide what we need. When
we drill for water in Fayette County, Georgia, where I live, we think we have
a 75-90% chance of finding a crack that provides 15-20 gallons of water per
minute within a 500-foot depth. 15+ GPM will provide sufficient water for
the hypothetical five-acre plasticulture farming plan presented here. Once
established, these wells are very dependable and seldom fail. Droughts have
no impact on this water supply.
Be sure to add a cycle stop to your well pump. This device is modestly priced
and its addition will save on power bills as it provides constant PSI (50-60)
and allows the pump to run continuously, eliminating water hammer from
pump cycling and extending the life of the impeller.
If you already have a stable pond, you can use it as a water source, too. Be
sure to route the water through a sand-filtering system to prevent algae
buildup within the drip emitters.

13
Designing the Irrigation System

Designing an irrigation system can be relatively difficult for a beginner. If

your system involves multiple feeder lines and manifolds, you should allow
the supplier to provide help.
Berry Hill Irrigation (3744 US-58, Buffalo Junction, VA 24529)1, which
focuses on small growers and backyard gardeners, offers ready-to-assemble
irrigation kits in several sizes. They also provide design help with any of
their systems. The standard drip tape used by most growers is 8 MIL tape
with 12” dripper spacing. At 10 PSI, this configuration will apply .45 gallons
of water per minute per 100 linear feet.
Water management is key to your success. The initial wetting of the plastic-
covered planting bed should soak the entire bed thoroughly. This ensures
that the fertilizer is disseminated and converted to usable form.
The type of soil beneath the plastic determines the time required to
accomplish initial hydration. With the system operating at 8-10 PSI, you
will usually need 18-24 hours of continuous operation.
After hydration, the daily operating time must be customized according to
several variables:
• Type of soil
• Current outside temperatures
1
Other than having familiarity with their products, I have no relatoionship with Berry Hill Irrigation or any
other equipment manufacturer mentioned in this text.

14
 • Size of plant
• Stage of growth
The bed needs to be damp at the time of seeding and kept in that condition
going forward. The initial daily watering time usually requires 1.5 or 2 hours
as the season progresses and temperatures rise. Increase that to 2-2.5 hours
per day as the plant size increases.
These systems can operate at 5 to 15 PSI, which means a great variation in
the amount of water applied in a given time. That being the case, you need to
check the planting beds frequently by punching a small hole for access. The
beds should be damp from shoulder to shoulder. Adjust the times as needed
to accomplish this. Plants respond better to consistent watering and the risk
of leaving the water uncontrolled for a long period is unacceptable.
A timer is necessary in every system. Timers are available in many sizes,
including small, battery-powered units that fit onto 3/4” garden hoses and
large, multi-zone configurations.
If a system is allowed to run for more than a few hours, fertilizer will leach
out of the root zone and go to waste. The only way to reapply fertilizer
is through the drip system and the amount needed will become hard to
calculate.

15
Choosing Your Plastic Mulch

The standard plastic choice for most applications is 1 MIL black-on-black

or white-on-black (4 ft. width), which is usually sold in 4,000 ft. rolls.
Choose black-on-black for early planting to gain the benefit of warm soil
and earlier maturity.
Choose white-on-black for crops planted after mid-May to achieve a
15-degree lower surface temperature in mid-season and avoid injuring the
tender plants. One of the major advantages of plasticulture is the ability to lay
it in advance of planting time and stay on schedule with successive planting
schemes, regardless of weather conditions. We always lay the plastic for our
February-March onions and potatoes in the late fall before the winter rains
start. Some tomato growers lay the plastic for early tomato crops in the fall.
It will retain usable status until planting time.
I will not make an attempt to provide laying information. There are videos
online that depict the process far better than any written instruction – search
for them! Since you use a layer only a few times per year, go online and look
for a co-owner. This implement, like all tillage equipment, will hold its value
for many years.

16
Choosing Your Fertilizer

Perform a soil test to determine fertilizer and lime needs. If lime is required,
apply 125% of the recommended amount. Our experience has shown that
if we only apply the recommended amount of lime, the result will be a PH
of 6.2-6.3. Vegetable crops, tomatoes in particular, prefer a slightly higher
PH than this.
The soil test will show the amount of balanced fertilizer needed for a 100
ft. row, but we must temper that with the fact that many of our crops are
planted in double rows on each bed. Since we plant many different crops in
the same plot, we try to match a universal application plan acceptable to all
crops. Many of our growers use this distribution plan and it seems to work:
Apply 12 to 15 lbs. of fertilizer per 100 linear feet. Use Super Rainbow 10-
10-10 or an equivalent product.
We use a balanced 10-10-10 mineralized fertilizer because it contains the
minor elements needed for vegetable crops. Using this complete product
is important to achieve the best results! Don’t buy the less expensive “box”
store products.
The fertilizer is applied in 24” to 30” bands to provide fertility as the plant
root system grows. This application is usually sufficient for the entire growing
season with the exception of tomatoes, but we’ll address that exception in
the cultural practices section.

17
The mulch layer will mix the fertilizer with soil and create a crowned, raised
bed. In our PAR garden, we use a 30” drop fertilizer spreader, which we pull
with a golf cart or ATV. Some of our growers use a slinger-type spreader
with a skirt added to control the width of application.

18
Choosing Your Seed

The subject of seed is broad and could take days to cover. The development
of disease-resistant seed varieties provides giant advancements in our ability
to produce higher yields of better quality produce with less effort than ever
before.
I have spent 50 years in search of the most desirable varieties for our area.
No single answer exists for any particular crop, and personal preference
certainly plays a role.
I have many years of experience teaching gardening classes and one of the
questions most often asked is: “What varieties should I plant and where do
I procure them?” Thankfully, there are several right answers. We are blessed
with multiple seed providers2 who focus on varieties that are compatible
with our area. While I like to support local businesses, we live in a limited
farming area and the garden centers and local seed and feed stores offer very
limited choices. There simply aren’t enough sales to warrant the inventory
investment, so I have had to look for seed outside my immediate area.
The following list comprises the total seed purchased in 2016 for our PAR
garden and my own backyard planting:
Willhite Seed Inc., Poolville, TX 76487, 800-828-1840, willhiteseed.com
• Clemson Spineless 80 Okra
2
Other than direct experience using their seeds, I have no connection or relationship with any of the named
vendors or supplies

19
 • Silver Queen Corn
• Super 45 Cantaloupes
• Midas II Yellow Summer Squash
• Senator Zucchini Squash
• Cut Master Seedless Watermelon
Willhite Seed Company is a long-established, family-owned seed company
that has been a leader in the development of melon varieties for many years.
The Super 45 cantaloupe and Cut Master seedless watermelon are among
our favorites. All the varieties in Willhite’s catalog would do well in the
Georgia Piedmont.
Twilley Seed Company, Hodges, SC, 800-622-7333, twilleyseed.com
• Watermelon Shiny Boy
• Southern Green Turnip
• Royal Crown Turnip
• Savanna Mustard
• Lacinato Kale
• Cinderella Carriage Pumpkin
• Mustang Pumpkin
Twilley focuses on small growers and has a long history of offering all the
latest hybrid varieties. They offer a complete line of the Cole crop varieties
we speak to in the early and late planting proposals, plus most of the other
suggested varieties.
Clifton Seed Company, Moultrie, GA, 229-891-2221, cliftonseed.com
• Green Beans – Greencrop
• Corn – Silver King
• Southern Peas – Pinkeye Purple Hull
Clifton Seed Company has a large inventory of most of the seeds we plant

20
locally and is a good source for growers who require larger amounts of seed.
Seeds ‘n Such, Graniteville, SC , 803-663-501, seedsnsuch.com
• Tomato – Original Goliath (Po1)
• Tomato – Celebrity
• Eureka – Cucumber
• Early Sunsation – Bell Pepper
• King Arthur – Bell Pepper
Seeds ‘n Such is a small specialty seed company featuring hundreds of
tomato and pepper varieties and some other vegetables.
Johnny’s Selected Seeds, Winslow, ME, 877-564-6697, johnnyseeds.com
• Hakurei Turnip
• Siberian Kale
• Batavia Lettuce
Johnny’s is an excellent provider with a large inventory of seeds. They
provide some specialty items not found elsewhere; however, because of their
northerly location, their focus is short season, cooler climate varieties that
might not work in our area. The Hakurei “salad” turnip is a must as is the
Batavia lettuce that grows well in hot weather.
Our first objective is to choose seed that yields a food with excellent taste
and appearance. Our second objective is to find seed that provides an
acceptable yield. Thirdly, we’re looking for seed with the maximum level of
disease resistance.
Some of the varieties we choose are hybrids; some are open pollinated.
The hybrid seeds are obviously much more expensive, but one of the great
features of plasticulture is a high germination rate that limits the amount of
seeds needed. Do not allow the price of seed to determine your choices! The
additional yield from the more advanced varieties will more than compensate
for the increased cost.

21
Call these providers to order a paper catalog, or explore their offerings online.
The catalog will typically be the only source for information on disease
resistance, plant size, yields potential, and seed count. Use the catalog depth-
planting chart for each individual crop. This resource provides the essential
information needed to plant your garden.
Every good garden begins with good planning. Space allocation, planting
distance, and seed-per-hill are essential factors. We will soon explore these
factors so that you can evaluate how much seed you need. Leftover seed is
viable for at least two years and should be stored in a sealed container.
Completing a site plan and ordering seed early is very important (before
March 1st)! Some of the most popular varieties sell out quickly and shipping
dates can be problematic in the busy season.

22
Required Tools and Equipment

Most of the tools and equipment you need are standard farm implements.
Here is a list of what we use in our PAR garden:
• Pull-type drop fertilizer spreader, 30”
• 1968 Model Ford 3000 tractor, 40 HP
• 5-shank all-purpose plow
• 5-foot 16-disc smoothing harrow
• 5-foot 3-point hitch rototiller
• 4-gallon battery-powered Hudson NeverPump sprayer; this
sprayer maintains a steady 60 PSI
• Push-type Earthway seeder
The rototiller is optional if you have sandy loam soil that can be worked
into a smooth surface to accommodate the mulch layer. A fan-type tractor-
mounted sprayer will be needed for larger plantings. For large plantings, also
consider a tractor-mounted hole punch. HPI from Berry Hill and the Berry
Hill Planter #P1 deserve consideration.
The Earthway seeder has been a standard for backyard gardeners for many
years; however, large plantings of Cole crops are better served with one of the
more advanced push-type seeders. Look online and check out the available
inventory. Also consider the small seed planters that can be mounted on a
tool bar or cultivator frame.

23
Though I have not tested it, Berry Hill introduced a new push-type seeder
in 2017 that will plant multiple crops through the plastic! Demonstration
videos on YouTube also show the Ferris Farm PolyPlanter Jr. seeder, which
could be a great labor saver. I suggest giving these products some attention.
If you must purchase a mulch layer, a recent introduction of a 3’-4’ compact
layer, the Berry Hill RB448, which makes a crowned 4” height bed is now
available. This layer is well constructed and only requires a 30-HP tractor.
The price is approximately $2,000.00, plus shipping.

24
Controlling Nuisance Animals

Deer control is absolutely critical. The two major methods of controlling

deer are:
• Electric fence: This is the first choice of most growers.
Standard construction consists of 6’ t-post or equivalent on
20’ centers with 14-gauge wire spaced from the ground at
intervals of 6”-24”-42”-60”. A 120-volt electrical system,
solar power, or batteries can power the fence chargers.
• Deer netting: This is a woven material, usually with a 1”
pattern. It is available in 5’, 6’, or 7’ heights. Deer netting
looks fragile, but it works well. Deer do not usually make an
effort to breach any type of barrier.
Growers who live near ponds might have problems with geese. Deer netting
seems to work well for geese, too. They are usually reluctant to fly over the
fencing!

25
Using Transplants

Plan ahead so you have the right transplants at the right time. Tomatoes,
peppers, and eggplant require transplants to accommodate the succession
planting schedule – a schedule you must follow carefully to provide a steady,
even flow of produce.
Small quantities of plants can usually be purchased at local garden
centers; however, when larger amounts are needed, you should make prior
arrangements with local greenhouse operators or plant dealers to ensure
availability of the desired varieties at the proper time.
It would be wise to consider the addition of a greenhouse. A small greenhouse
combined with a matching slat house can produce a large amount of
transplant during the season. All of the information for these buildings is
readily available online.

26
Succession Planting

I made a major mistake in planting my entire one-half acre backyard garden

for the past 48 years. As a result, it is contaminated with multiple soil diseases
that create problems every season.
In retrospect, it would have been much better to redirect a portion of my
garden to grass or small grains each year to control the various soil diseases
which now exist. Doing so would have rehabilitated the land to something
closer to a sterile state each year.
In any case, the perfect planting site is one in which we can match a tract of
fallow, sterile land with an adequate water source and apply the plasticulture
growing practices. Most of us will not be able create this ideal scenario, so
we must use other available resources. Thankfully, plasticulture adds value
and yield to any planting site when properly managed.
If you are fortunate enough to have available space, it is beneficial to allow
it to be planted in grass or small grains for three to four years. Our five-
acre plan encourages succession planting schemes to provide a consistently
balanced flow of seasonal produce for a retail market; growers who support
food banks and backyard gardeners; CSA providers; and/or farm-to-table
operations.
Now to the growing plan for our five-acre site! Keep in mind that the
schedules and divisions of acreage are based on this hypothetical site but
can be broken down into any division that fits your needs.
Using six-foot row spacing, five acres will provide 30,000 linear feet of
planting rows with allowance for access and drive rows.

27
The Crops

April 15 has been chosen as the starting date for warm season crops as it
is considered the frost-free date for our area. If your frost-free date differs,
simply shift the planting dates to the proper date for your planting site.

Growing Tomatoes
The Celebrity variety is a proven performer and a safe choice for openers.
There are many good varieties available and you may try to find a better
fit, but be careful. Disease resistance is an extremely important part of this
choice. Celebrity is a determinate variety and is grown extensively in our
area.
Avoid mixing varieties of unknown quality with your main crop. If you
want to experiment with other varieties, separate them so that disease spores
can’t migrate into your main crop and cause you to lose production.
Tomatoes are your most important crop and best source of income. While
they provide your best opportunity to make a significant amount of money,
you must also plant more profitable crops (i.e. okra, corn) to bring in other
customers who will ultimately purchase your tomatoes.
Tomatoes must be harvested 2 to 3 times per week. Harvest all the tomatoes
with color, clean them, and store them in a cool place (not in a cooler). They
will be ready to sell in 3 to 4 days.

28
Here are space allocations for tomatoes on the five-acre growing site:
• 8,000 linear feet divided into 4 equal plantings
• Each planting accommodates 1,000 plants
• Plant spacing is 2 feet in row centers
Planting Dates in our area are:
• April 15
• May 10
• June 5
• July 1

A few growing tips for your tomatoes

The Florida weave system is the most popular method of support. It entails
driving 4’- 6’ stakes between every other plant and stretching tomato twine
at planting time to prevent the plant from falling over and forming a “dog
leg,” which will make it difficult to control. There are videos online showing
the process. If possible, buy the Honduras pine-treated stakes. I have some
that are 30 years old and have no sign of rot.
Good planning is essential to guarantee availability of transplants. County
Farms Nursery in Baxley, Georgia provides transplants for some of our
growers. They sell plants in 1,000 plant lots; however, you must order in
advance and be ready to plant your tomatoes when they arrive.
Pruning the lower three or four suckers is important. Pay close attention
to plant growth and accomplish this task when the largest suckers are six
inches long. Multiple testing procedures have produced the same result:
Pruning will not reduce the number of pounds produced but will greatly
increase the number of #1 tomatoes harvested.

29
Keep in mind that you will not be successful in growing tomatoes without
a disciplined fungicide program. Early blight and late blight are always
a threat to tomato growing and could destroy your chances to harvest a
full crop. We use a fungicide that has been in production for fifty years,
chlorothalonil. It is sold under the brand names Chem-Nut, Initiate, and, in
small quantities, Daconil 2787.
Fungicides are a preventive measure and must be applied before disease
strikes. You cannot cure a sick leaf ! Apply it every 7 to 10 days for acceptable
control – and yes, that includes just before rains. If the material stays on the
plant long enough to dry, it will zero out the disease spores. If left unsprayed
before the rain, the disease spore will multiply rapidly.
For insect and worm control, add an insecticide to the spray tank. We use a
permethrin (Chlorothalonil) mixture in the PAR garden. Some growers like
to alternate the Chem-Nut with Pristine, another fungicide. This spray mix
works for peppers, eggplants, melons, cucumbers, and squash with much
success.
Make the planting hole slightly larger than the plant root (2”x 2”) and
backfill with a good grade of wet fertilized planting mix (1 tablespoon of
20-20-20 per gallon of water). This will get your plants off to a stronger start
and result in an earlier harvest.
Wondering about yields? If all fertility, moisture, disease, and insect control
needs are met, you can reasonably expect 15-20 pounds of tomatoes per
plant.
Adequate and consistent moisture control is absolutely essential to tomato
production. Blossom end rot is usually a product of inadequate or irregular
water application. Thankfully, drip irrigation provides an opportunity to
control moisture at optimum levels at all times.
Increase the total pounds of #1 tomatoes per plant by applying fertilizer
when the first tomatoes reach maturity. In a commercial setting, the
recommended procedure is to inject 50 pounds of potassium nitrate per
1,000 plants through the fertilizer injection system. Be aware of the need

30
to run the drip system for at least one hour after the injection process is
complete to properly distribute the fertilizer within the root system.
Backyard gardeners who do not have injectors and, in particular, growers
of indeterminate varieties should apply 5 pounds per 100 feet of 10-10-10
along edges of the plastic strip. The root system will be outside the plastic by
this time and will pick up the fertilizer.
Proper harvest practices are important to protect the final product. Tomatoes
should be harvested 3 times per week, removing all the fruit that is showing
color.

What about my backyard tomato garden?

All of the above information concerns a commercial growing operation.
Small backyard growers and community gardens can add indeterminate and
heirloom tomatoes to the mix. Some of the very best quality tomatoes fall
into these two categories!
Indeterminate varieties continue to grow as long as proper fertility, moisture,
and disease/insect controls are present. I am writing this on September 26,
2016, and have had a garden salad for lunch with tomatoes from plants that
were transplanted on April 15, 2016 and started to produce ripe tomatoes

31
the last week in June!
One hundred Goliath plants have produced well over 2,000 pounds of
tomatoes in our backyard garden. Some of the tastier tomatoes available fall
into this category: Goliath and Big Beef are some of our favorites. They have
good disease resistance; they’re also strong, productive, and easy to grow.
The main challenge with growing these indeterminate tomatoes is the
support system. We stake ours at planting time with a 4’ to 5’ stake and, when
the plants reach the top of the stake, we add an “extension” (a 7’ piece of ¾”
PVC pipe). There are several options for the extension, including sections of
bamboo which are at least ½” in diameter at the smaller end. The extenders
do not need to be driven into the soil – just tape them two or three times to
the primary stake.
A word of caution in your variety selection: Use only proven performers. Do
not plant Big Early or Big Boy. They were the first hybrids introduced and
have no disease resistance.
The heirloom varieties have gained popularity and are relatively easy to
grow. Cherokee Purple has won many taste contests. Brandywine is also
very popular. Some of my friends have good results with a novelty tomato
called Goldman’s Italian. It produces a very different looking tomato: pear-
shaped with prominent sutures. It has a very good flavor and limited pulp. It
has also become a favorite for canning, salsa, and tomato paste.

Growing Squash
Yellow summer squash and green zucchini squash are easy to grow and are
always in demand. Grow them from transplants or by direct seeding.
On the five-acre growing site, we allocate 3,000 linear feet of row with six
plantings of 500 linear feet. Planting dates are:
• April 15
• May 5
• May 25

32
 • June 15
• July 1
If possible, pursue the first planting of 500 linear feet with transplants and,
at the same time, direct seed the second row. Repeat direct seeding as noted
above.
The in-row spacing should be 15”-18”, double row, 6” on each side of the
drip lines. Squash plants are hollow. If you get them near the drip line where
it is very moist, they will rot.
Yellow squash sell much better than zucchini, so a ratio of 4 to 1 would
probably be good for starters. The recommended varieties are: Midas II
yellow squash and Senator zucchini from Willhite.
The only pest control generally needed before June 1 is to spray an insecticide
around the stems at ground level to control vine borers. After June 1st, be
alert for the appearance of powdery mildew and/or leaf-footed stink bungs.
The standard spray mix of Chem-Nut fungicide and permethrin insecticide
at 7 to 10-day intervals will control these pests.
You can continue planting squash throughout the summer, but you must
purchase virus-resistant seed for planting after the end of June. Twilley
offers several virus-resistant varieties.

33
Growing Cucumbers
Plant the Dasher II variety for a standard cucumber and Eureka for “Kirby-
style” cucumbers. Both have performed well in our experience.
The Eureka cucumbers are extremely popular. Although they are pickling-
size, many prefer them for slicing and salads. At 4-5” long, they are crisp and
tasty without any trace of bitterness!
Spray them with the standard fungicide/insecticide mix to control cucumber
beetles, pickleworms, and powdery mildew. Harvest them at full size as
shown in the seed catalog.
Allocate 1,500 linear feet of row, just as with summer squash. Plant 250 feet
of row at each planting with in-row spacing of 15” to 18”.

Growing Cantaloupes
One of the most popular items in any market, quality melons are relatively
simple to grow when you follow a few sound cultural principles. The same
disease/insect control program recommended for tomatoes works well for
cantaloupes, too.
Utilize a 7 to 10-day interval application of the fungicide/insecticide mix
described for tomatoes. Allocate 4,000 linear feet of row with the first
planting on April 15th and subsequent plantings on May 1, May 15 and
June 1. Each planting should yield 1,000 melons over a two-week period.
Use transplants for the first planting if available.
There are many good hybrid varieties available with the most popular one
being Athena; however, all of the newer varieties are bred to have a very
short harvest window and accommodate commercial growers.
We’ve had much success with the Super 45, a variety that was hybridized
from the PMR45 melon. If you haven’t heard of the PMR45, it was the
standard cantaloupe for many years! The Super 45 produces a 4-5 lb., well-
netted, attractive melon with outstanding taste. Willhite is the single source
for this variety.

34
The Super 45 also sets fruit over a longer period of time than the other
hybrids and has a longer harvest window. Cantaloupes are somewhat fragile
and require some special attention. We usually have showers and rainy
periods during the harvest season and this requires close attention to the
irrigation. Maturing vines have roots outside the plastic and can add too
much moisture at the critical ripening time, resulting in stem end cracks
that make them unsalable.
Another issue during rainy periods is that water accumulates underneath
the maturing melons outside the plastic so that they stick to the soil, leading
to cracks in the moist area. A simple solution is to move all the netted
melons enough to have them rest on a different area. It does not require
much relocation – just enough to have the melon rest on a new spot.
If your cantaloupes are near a habitat that can accommodate field rats,
rodents can become a problem. Simply scatter D-Con pellets along the
edges adjacent to the field when the melons start to ripen. Fortunately, rats
like D-Con more than cantaloupes.
On the five-acre site, the row spacing for cantaloupes is 2 feet with 8’-9’
between rows to accommodate the vines.

35
Growing Watermelons
These are everyone’s favorite and easy to grow! Allocate 4,000 linear feet of
row. Each 1,000-foot planting should produce 600-700 melons. Aim for
24”-30” of in-row spacing with a row width of 8’-9’. Use transplants for the
first planting, if available. Planting dates are:
• April 15
• May 1
• May 15
• June 1
Disease and insect problems are less frequent in watermelons than in
cantaloupes; however, it’s a good idea to use the same spray program.

There are many hybrid and open-pollinated varieties available. I will offer
three from Willhite that should fit most produce market needs. Willhite has
been a long-standing, dependable melon breeder for many years, and any
of the following three varieties would fill the need for a 15 to 25-lb. seeded
watermelon.

36
 1. Legacy – A recent introduction, it has found good grower
acceptance. It is an attractive melon with good taste. The
seeds are modestly priced as compared to the hybrids and
it should perform well for a local growing operation. This
variety is only available from Willhite.
2. Dixilee – This is another a Willhite offering that sells well in
produce markets. It’s a very good tasting melon with strong
vine growth.
3. Crimson Sweet – A long-standing favorite that works well
in any market, Crimson Sweet has name recognition and is
an established favorite variety.
Try the hybrids if you wish, but I believe of any of these three will fill your
needs.

Growing Corn
High quality, fresh sweet corn is a favorite item in the local produce market.
Three types of sweet corn are available:
1. Normal (SV)
2. Sugary Enhanced (SE)
3. Super Sweet (SH2)
In our area of Georgia, the long-time favorite is the normal white variety,
Silver Queen. It has name recognition and an old-fashioned flavor. Many
growers have switched to Silver King, which is very similar to Silver Queen.
It is an SE variety with increased tenderness and sweetness. It has longer
harvest time, longer shelf life, and matures ten days earlier than Silver Queen.
Some growers combine them in a single planting for the convenience of a
longer harvest. The 10-day maturity interval precludes cross-pollination.
If you are interested in a bi-color variety, both Honey & Cream and Peaches
& Cream are acceptable SE varieties. A long-time favorite in the yellow
corn family is Kandy Corn. It is an SE variety with wonderful flavor and

37
good shelf life. It has strong, 7’-8’ burgundy-colored stalks and green husks
flushed with red.
If you have covered storage available, cut a portion of the stalks at ground
level immediately after harvest and stand them up to dry for corn shocks in
the fall. The stalks will bring in as many dollars per unit as the ears. Store
them upright to dry and to prevent mold.
On the five-acre site, allocate 6,000 linear feet for corn. In-row spacing is 9
inches, double rows. Planting dates are:
• April 1
• April 15
• May 1
• May 5
• June 1
• June 15
Corn earworms are always an issue in growing sweet corn. Control them by
applying a permethrin spray at the first appearance of silks. Repeat spraying
at 3 to 5-day intervals until silks begin to wilt and dry. The biological control
product (Dipel) bacillus thuringiensis provides some control but requires
more frequent spraying.

38
Growing Peppers
A combination of green, red, and yellow peppers is a good mix for your
market. Allocate 500 linear feet for peppers. They will only require one
planting between April 15th and May 1st if you care for them properly.
Peppers grow best in warmer weather.
The same culture and support system used for tomatoes will work for
peppers. Plant 100 linear feet in the yellow variety, “Early Sunsation.” Do
not harvest any of these as green peppers. Plant 400 feet in the red variety,
“King Arthur.” Harvest 200 feet of these as green peppers and allow the
remaining 200 feet to mature to red. Red peppers sell much better than
yellow because of the higher level of lycopene.
Assuming proper management, your single planting of peppers should cover
the entire season!

Growing Eggplant
Plant 100 linear feet on April 15th and manage them the same as peppers
and tomatoes. The Epic variety (hybrid) is a good choice; the small-sized
cluster fruits of the Hansel variety are also popular.

39
Growing Okra
Fresh okra is a customer magnet for your market. Okra is easy to grow, but
harvesting it is a challenge. Two plantings should cover the entire season.
Plant 500 linear feet on April 15 and 500 linear feet again on June 1. Plant
a single row with 15”-18” spacing. When the second planting comes into
production, cut the plants of the first planting off at 15”-18” high to produce
new growth and provide a late season supply.
Clemson 80 is the standard variety and performs well in this area.

Growing Beans
Several varieties of beans have been developed the heirloom variety, Kentucky
Wonder. The leading varieties are Greencrop (Green Crop) and Kentucky
Dreamer, both of which develop a large bush plant with good yields. These
varieties retain the Kentucky Wonder taste, plus present a longer, straight
pod without strings.

40
Greencrop is available from several seed dealers. These long (8”) flat beans
sell out quickly in most markets! Growing this variety is labor intensive as it
needs to be planted at two-week intervals.
Plant in double rows, 8”-9” apart, 3 seeds to the hill. Do not thin. The vines
grow large, so consider adding short stakes along each bed shoulder with a
couple of strands of tomato twine to keep them upright. The typical yield is
5-8 bushels per 100 linear feet.
If you are interested in a round green bean, consider the Strike variety.

Growing Southern Peas

Peas are not a strong income provider; however, if you have unused land,
they are an excellent groundcover. Sowing them with a cyclone seeder is
the usual process. After preparing the land, sow them on top of the soil and
cover them using a smoothing harrow with the discs adjusted to the most
extreme angle. Hold the harrow up with the lift so that it touches the soil
deep enough to get complete coverage on the surface.

Do not plant peas before June 15. The Pea Curculio, which stings peas and
leaves an egg inside the pod, does not attack them if planted after this date.
Peas have a short growing season and can be planted until early August. The

41
planting rate is 50 pounds per acre: Double row, 8” spacing, 3 seeds to the
hill. Peas may also be planted on plastic beds cleaned off after earlier crops.
Pinkeye Purple Hull is a favorite variety for most growers.

Growing Sweet Onions

The famous short season sweet onions that we grow in Georgia are a perfect
match for plasticulture! With all due respect to our friends in Southeast
Georgia, the onions we grow in the Piedmont match up well with theirs in
every respect.
Plants are available from Dixondale Farm in Carrizo Springs, Texas. This
supplier publishes a chart showing proper planting dates for every zip code.
For my zip code, the date is February 15th. Each case of approximately 2,000
plants is priced at $75.00 postpaid. Our typical yield has produced 600 to
800 pounds of cured onions per case. We have great success with the Texas
Legend and Yellow Granex varieties.
The culture could not be easier. We prepare 100 feet of black-on-black
plastic for every case before the winter rains, generally in October. These
plants require extra fertilizer because of the small root system – usually 25
lbs. of mineralized 10-10-10 for every 100 feet. Using a sod roller with ¾ x
2” spikes added at 4” spacing, we plant 18 plants per foot.
Two weeks after planting, apply water soluble 20-20-20 at the rate of 1

42
tablespoon per gallon of water. Repeat this at 2 to 3-week intervals to give
the plants an initial boost until the bulbs begin to form. We use a watering
can for this operation.
Purple blotch is a disease that attacks the leaves and stops growth. Each of
the 14 leaves supports one layer of the onion. The health and vigor of the
leaves control the width of the layer, thus determining the size of the onion.
Simply adding 1 tablespoon of chlorothalonil to each gallon of the fertilizer
water will control the purple blotch fungus.
Hydration is critical in the later season and must be carefully managed.
As for harvest and storage, simply follow the instructions furnished by
Dixondale. They tell you everything. Green onions at tennis ball-size should
be available to match the early Cole crops and potatoes we propose in in a
later section.

Growing Potatoes
A special springtime treat is the “new” red Pontiac potato. These are easy to
grow on plastic and can be harvested as needed. As harvested, they have a
very different taste from those at the grocery store. They have a high level of
natural dextrose, which converts to starch after a few days, much like sweet
corn and English peas.
The availability of seed potatoes is limited to a short period in February and

43
early March. After determining the amount needed, follow this process:
A 50 lb. bag of seed potatoes should plant 200 linear feet. Typically sold in
50 lb. bags, you will need to open the bags to expose a sample of the sprouts.
If the sprouts are less than ½” long, store them in a warm area and the
sprouts will quickly form.
Cut the seed potatoes into 2-ounce pieces (called sets), which will be
approximately the size of an ice cube. Each set must have at least one sprout.
Store the sets in vented crates or baskets for at least a week to allow the cut
sides to form a hard surface. Having the hard surface protects the sets from
decay while the root system is being developed.
If you must delay planting for a period of 2 or 3 weeks, the sets will be fine
as long as you store them in vented crates where they have air circulation.
The ideal planting date is sometime in mid-March.
Cut a 2”x 2” hole in the plastic at 12” intervals in double rows and plant the
sets 2” deep with the sprouts pointed upright. The typical yield is 10 to 1. A
50 lb. bag of seed should produce 500 lbs. of potatoes. Harvest the potatoes
after you’re certain the beds are dry. Brush the dirt off with a soft brush. This
will afford the maximum storage time.
Potatoes should match up well with your Cole crops and the onions as
described earlier.

44
Growing Sweet Potatoes
Sweet potatoes are easy to grow using plasticulture methods with little
attention in growing season, save for hydration. The leading varieties are
Beauregard and Covington. Scott Farms in Lucama, North Carolina is
a grower who focuses on producing disease-free plants. At this writing,
typical plant (called “slips”) prices are $75.00 per thousand postpaid. Slips
are usually available in mid-May.
Plant double rows at 12” apart. Be sure plants stand up at transplanting –
touching the plastic sheet will cause major damage. Cut off the root end to
accommodate this.
Field rats are a problem if you are planting in a site near grass or weed
patches. Use D-con pellets around the perimeter to control them. Ample
supplies of quality potatoes are available at produce supply markets should
you decline to grow these vegetables. These should be added to fall offerings
of Cole crops and pumpkins.

45
An Alternative to the Five-Acre Plan

Not everybody is able to pursue the full five-acre growing plan, and that’s ok.
There are other ways to generate cash flow from your plasticulture farming
efforts. By planting crops as I describe below, you’ll be able to begin selling
them in mid-May.
The availability of hybrid turnip and mustard green seeds is key to your
opportunity. These products represent a major step forward in quality,
appearance, yield, and taste when compared to the open-pollinated varieties.
I will attempt to schedule planting dates that match them up for a mid-May
delivery start.
The major problem with growing these spring crops is site preparation due to
wet soil. Here is the solution: Lay 6,000 linear feet of black-on-black plastic
mulch in the fall before the winter rain begins (between mid-October and
Thanksgiving). This will accommodate the planting of the transplants and the
direct seeded crops. Plant the transplants as you usually would. The process
involves removal of the plastic on the beds to be direct seeded, leaving the drip
tape intact. Using an Earthway seeder, plant a double row with 6” on either
side of the drip tape.
These hybrid seeds are much more expensive than open-pollinated seed, but
they are absolutely worth the investment. Purchase the following transplants
from Country Farms Garden in Baxley, GA for planting on or about March 15:

46
 • 500 broccoli plants
• 500 cauliflower plants
• 2,000 collard plants
• 1,000 cabbage plants
Purchase the following seed for planting on or about March 15th from
Twilley Seed:
• ¼ lb. - 3045u Lacinato kale
• ¼ lb. - 4654 Savanna mustard
• ¼ lb. – 4654 Southern Green turnip greens
• ¼ lb. – 4644 Royal Crown turnips
From Johnny’s Seeds, purchase:
• ¼ lb. – 706 Hakurei turnip
• ¼ lb. – 3926 Siberian kale
Half of these seeds will be needed for fall planting on or about Labor Day.
Any leftover seeds may be kept for up to two years if properly stored.
To reduce the labor costs on the mustard and turnip greens, simply pull
the mature (8” tall) plants, chop off the root, and bundle them like collards.
Backyard gardeners can harvest individual leaves if re-growth is desired.
Plant a second crop of the greens, mustard, and kale 2 to 3 weeks after the
initial crop.
Plant 1,000 linear feet of the Southern Greens on or about March 15th at the
same time. Plant 500 linear feet of Siberian kale, 500 linear feet of Lacinato
kale, 500 linear feet of Royal Crown turnips, 500 linear feet of Savanna
mustard, and 500 linear feet of Hakurei turnips – all at two rows per bed. If
you have space left, perform a second planting of Southern Greens.
Also consider selling tomatoes from Florida. Growers in the Sunshine
State start delivering large amounts of vine-ripened tomatoes to the local
wholesale produce market in mid to late May. These tomatoes are not on a
par with our local ones, but they are acceptable and sell very well. Add the

47
tomatoes to your kale, cabbage, collard, turnip greens, broccoli, onions, and
new potato display to attract customers at the start of the season!

48
Containers and Storage

If you plant a substantial portion of what is included in the proposed five-acre

plan, you must provision a matching amount of harvest containers, storage
boxes, and bins. Check with the produce manager at your local supermarket.
The conversation could result in lots of free containers!
At some level of production, you will also need a cooler. The manufactured
coolers are expensive and difficult to set up. An alternate plan is described
at storeitcold.com. At that site, you will find instructions on how to locally
fabricate a simple insulated building cooled by a common window air
conditioning unit! The company sells a replacement temperature control
unit that can reduce the cut-off temperature to acceptable levels for vegetable
storage.
A couple of our growers have installed these units and they work very well.
The cost is a small fraction of what you would pay for a manufactured
commercial cooler!

49
Weed and Grass Control

The area between the plastic-covered beds is difficult to keep free of weeds
and grass. Growers use various methods of weed control, none of which are
totally effective. It usually takes a combination of efforts to gain total control
over weeds and grass.
In 6’ row spacing, the area is usually about 36” wide. Some growers use
pre-emergent herbicide, some by tilling and others by a mop saturated with
Roundup solution. It is important to keep this area weed-free to prevent
disease spores and insects from propagating. It also makes plastic removal
easier if no roots are allowed to penetrate the covered plastic shoulders.
The edgers shown on page 63 of the 2017 Berry Hill catalog show great
promise and should be an asset in the control of weeds and grass between
rows.

50
The Money Thing

It is impossible for me to quantify the capital expenses for the initial setup
because every site is different; however, I can help with the direct operating
cost. Here is the material list for the five-acre growing site:

2 Tons Super Rainbow 10-10-10

$1,200.00
or equivalent

10 Gallons Chlorothalonil (fungicide) $350.00

5 Gallons Permethrin (insecticide) $200.00

3 Gallons TriTec (matricide) $150.00

5 lbs. Dipel wetable powder

$75.00
(biological control)

Transplants * (tomato, pepper, eggplant) $700.00

Seeds $800.00

Seed potatoes and onion plants $500.00

30,000 feet plastic mulch $900.00

30,000 feet 8 Mil. drip Tape $600

51
These are the major expenses, but you will certainly have others. The major
expense will be labor, and this is hard to quantify. My best estimate is that
you will require 2,000-2,500 work hours during a season. In our PAR garden,
we have no labor cost and our typical direct cost is less than ten cents per
pound of produce.

52
Some Money-Saving Tips

Do not invest in a major underground PVC water supply system. The

aboveground flat tube and oval hose supply lines work well. If having these
on top of the ground is a problem, simply make a shallow furrow with a
single-foot sub-soiler or a middle buster and bury it deep enough to get
it out of the way. The Berry Hill catalog has all the information you need
about this arrangement.
Before spending large amounts of money on an underground power cable,
consider using a solar-powered fence charger. You should also investigate
using a battery-charged timer.

53
Disease and Insect Control

A major barrier to the success of this project is yield loss due to diseases
and insects. As mentioned earlier, we are using a simple approach in our
PAR garden that involves one fungicide (chlorothalonil) and one insecticide
(permethrium). We apply these in a mix, as needed, to all our main season
crops. Chlorothalonil has no time-before-harvest requirement. Permethrium
has no time-before-harvest requirement on most crops we grow either;
however, several crops require a one-day limit before harvest.
If you choose to plant the early and late crops, it will be necessary to add a
miticide (TriTek) and a biological control (bacillus thuringiensis), sold as
Dipel, to control soft-bodied insects and cabbage looper caterpillars. We use
organic products when applicable, but find it necessary to use conventional
methods in some areas to protect our yield.
We know we can produce safe, healthy food using conventional insecticides
as recommended in the University of Georgia Home Gardeners Disease
and Insect Control Guide. It is important to recognize that all plant diseases
attack the underside of the oldest leaves first and that most insect damage
occurs in the same area. We recommended the Hudson battery-powered
pump sprayer because it produces a constant high pressure (60PSI), which
will produce a finer mist and move leaves during the spraying process. The
spray material must be approved for the specific crop. What’s more, all
mix ratios, application rules, and time-before-harvest guidelines should be
observed. Also, all operator safety measures must be observed when applying
these recommended products. Pay careful attention to the information on
the product labels and the UGA guide.

54
Here are some observations about disease and insect problems:
• Square vine borers attack plant stems at the soil line in every
planting.
• Leaf-footed bugs, stink bugs, and pickleworms start to
appear in mid to late June.
• Pickleworms attack all cucurbits except watermelons around
July 1. This is a “wipe-out” pest that must be controlled by
preventive spraying methods.
• Cucumber beetles attack cantaloupe and cucumber vines
just above the soil line when the plants are very small. They
transmit a virus that kills the plants before they are mature.
• Corn earworms attack most ears of corn in early plantings
and attack more aggressively as the season progresses.
• Aphids attack all the Cole crops and can be controlled by the
organic miticide TriTec.
• Cabbage loopers attack cabbage, broccoli, and cauliflower.
These pests make products unsuitable for sale. Bacillus
thuringiensis will control them.

Every insect will attack eggplant. The standard spray mix will protect
those vegetables as well. Be sure to locate a farm chemical supply for these
purchases. The local garden center will not stock them. We drive ninety
miles to A.M. Bickley Chemical, Inc. in Marshallville, Georgia, and it is
well worth the drive.

55
Closing Thoughts

There is an old adage that states, “The best fertilizer you can apply to the land
is the footprint of your own boot.” In other words, it is absolutely necessary
to spend time checking all of your crops.
We must keep a close eye on the irrigation system, watch out for insect
and disease problems, and be on the lookout for any signs of fertility issues.
Learn to use the two best tools you will ever possess: your eyes. Train your
vision to recognize how a healthy plant should look, including leaf color and
vigor.
There is much information online that shows disease symptoms and the
presence of insect damage. You can’t remedy a problem unless you recognize
its existence.
Make a work calendar and try to stay on schedule. The time required to
accomplish any of these routine tasks will multiply if you fall behind.

56
Be Joyful and Thankful!

Be joyful in the privilege of watching God’s handiwork in the conversion

of a seed the size of a pencil point to a bucket full of wonderful tomatoes.
Be thankful that He allows us to help a little with the process.
Be joyful in the privilege of sharing our bounty with friends, family, and
especially the needy.
Be thankful that we have been provided the resources to make others’ lives
better.
We are all leaving a footprint. Our legacy will largely be determined by the
demonstration of our faith and by how we treat other people.

Otis Lester Bray – January 18, 2017

57
Further Reading

Myers, Jeff, “Starting a Fruit Orchard in the Atlanta Area”, 2014

58
Acknowledgements

I would like to thank all of the Plant-a-Row volunteers for their diligent
work and selfless dedication. Additional gratitude goes to New Hope Baptist
Church, which provided our growing site. Thanks also to Al Pearson, whose
donations have fed countless needy children and families, and to my friend,
Ginger Vawter, for encouraging me to write this book. My thanks and love
to Adam Green, my grandson, who from the earliest days of his life has been
a joy to our family and who willingly edited my efforts at putting this to pa-
per. Finally, I would like to recognize my wife of 66 years, Charlotte, for her
boundless love and her support for my farming activities.

59
About the Author

Otis Lester Bray is an 88-year resident of Fayette County, Georgia. A

veteran who spent 50 years in the aviation industry, he has worked as a part-
time farmer and gardening hobbyist all his life. He started working with the
Fayette County chapter of Plant-a-Row for the Hungry in 2008. Through
his interactions with that group, he was inspired–and encouraged–to finally
put to paper his vast knowledge of farming in the Georgia Piedmont.

60
61
 About the Author

Otis Lester Bray is an 88-year resident of

Fayette County, Georgia. A veteran who
spent 50 years in the aviation industry, he
has worked as a part-time farmer and
gardening hobbyist all his life. He started
working with the Fayette County chapter
of Plant-a-Row for the Hungry in 2008.
Through his interactions with that group,
he was inspired – and encouraged – to
finally put to paper his vast knowledge of
farming in the Georgia Piedmont.

Plasticulture
Farming for Everybody