Step-by-Step

Vol. 2
$1.95 USA

Finishing
German
Tiger I, s.Pz.-Abt. 503 Armor
Wiking Panther Ausf. A By Glenn Bartolotti

Step-by-step guide to painting and finishing WWII German Armor

 Step-by-Step
Vol. 2

Finishing
Tiger I, s.Pz.-Abt. 503
German
Wiking Panther Ausf. A Armor
By Glenn Bartolotti

A complete easy to follow step-by-step

guide to painting and finishing WWII
German Armor

Bladerunner8u Production, © 2009 Copyright © 2009 by Glenn L. Bartolotti

[email protected] All rights reserved.
 Materials Used
The materials I use are very easy to obtain and simple to use. Most are inexpensive
and found at most all art supply stores.
Over the years I have learned to used these basic materials to obtain finishes that look
very realistic. Consistency is very important and following each steps is very important
to obtain the desired finish.

You will notice that in none of the steps will you see the method of dry-brushing. I do
not like to use this method as some armor modelers do. I prefer a more subtle look in
which I feel represents the look of a full scale armor vehicle.

The materials below were used to finish the 2 models in this volume.
Mr Surfacer 500
Painter Masking Tape
Orderless Turpentine
Micro Sol Decal setting solution
1 each No. 3 round paint brush
1 each No. 0 round paint brush
1 each No. 1 flat paint brush
1 can generic flat grey spray primer
1 can Testors Model Master gloss spray
1 can Testors Model Master lusterless flat spray
Testors Model Master flat enamel paints-colors specified in text
Testors Model Master airbrush thinner
Model Color Vellejo acrylic paint
Brown
Black
Armor Yellow
Red Brown
Artist oil paint
Black
Raw Umber
Burnt Sienna
Pastel Sticks
Yellow Ochre
Raw Umber
Rust
Olive Green
No. 2 Pencil

Note: Materials used for painting and weathering only.

The figures seen in some of the photos used more
paint colors than listed above.

 Tiger I, s.Pz.-Abt. 503

As with all of their procurement

efforts, Germany established a
program to control manufacturing
and application of camouflage
paints. Specifications were sent
to the paint suppliers detailing
the exact method for preparing ensured uniformity in both the tone scheme of Dunklegrau
test specimens to send in for paint and the final assembled (dark grey) and Dunklebraun
examination and approval. In product. These camouflage (dark brown). Dunklegrau RAL
addition, the inspectors at the paints were used for the entire46 (later renumbered RAL 7021)
assembly plants were provided range of military equipment andwas the base coat. Irregularly
with color swatches to use in vehicles intended for frontlineshaped patches of Dunklebraun
accepting products painted in use - not just Panzers. RAL 45 (later renumbered RAL
accordance with orders specified 7017) were to be spray painted
in contracts. This strictly At the start of the War, all onto 1/3rd of the surface.
controlled and enforced program Panzers were painted in a two-
In June 1940, a general order
was issued to stop applying
patches of Dunklebraun and
only use Dunklegrau RAL 46 for
the entire surface.

I have always wanted to do a

Panzer Grey Tiger because of
the classic color on a classic
tank. I wanted it to look the part
of a veterant tank that fought
many battles. This is my effort.
1 1. The kit used is DML 1/35 Initial
Tiger I. It was Modified to a later
easy Tiger used by the s.Pz.-Abt.
503. To do so I added the side
skirts from a Tamiya kit, a side
loaders hatch and a few small
details. Mr Surfacer 500 is used for
light mud and texture.

2 2. The model is given a primer

coat to give the model a good
base to start the paint process. I
use a basic spray can primer that
can be purchased at the local
home store. This primer coat
makes painting the steps much
easier because you get a smooth
coat of color to allow you to see all
the areas that will be needed to be
painted in the steps used to shade
and high light the model. The
primer also protects the photo-etch
parts and now hold the final paint
better,

3
3. The paint that will be used to
airbrush this model will be Testors
Model Master enamel paint: 2142
Flat White, 2075 Dunkel Braun
RLM 61 ( which looks gray?),
Rust, and Flat Black. Flat paint is
very important to my step-by-step
finishing.
 4. The first step in the painting
4 process is the pre-shade this is
the darkest shadow color. Dunkel
Braun RLM 61( which looks gray?)
is used mixed with black about half
and half. What you are trying to
achieve in this is to make sure any
areas that your light source cannot
hit is painted. You are for the most
part adding artificial shadows. All
the recesses, corners, tracks, and
under objects that stand off the
tank. It is also best achieved in
some areas by painting the areas
from under the tank as to just paint
under the objects.

5 5. Next step in the painting process

is the base coat this is the main
color Dunkel Braun RLM 61 used
with no mix. What you are trying to
achieve in this step is to make sure
you cover the areas that were not
painted in the pre-shade painting.
As you can see you don’t have
to worry about being perfect
just make sure you can see the
shadow for the most part and a
blending effect is achieved.

6. Next step in the painting process

is the high-light. This is the main
6 color, Dunkel Braun RLM 61 mixed
with 2142 Flat White, mix 4/1 to
lighten the base color. You want to
add enough white to alter the base
color and contrast is important
in this step. What you are trying
to achieve is to make sure any
areas of your light source can hit
is painted. A faded effect is also
achieved since this Tiger has worn
it’s Panzer Grey color for over a
year.. This step will bring out your
tank’s details. Paint all the high
spots, centers of any panels and
the tops of objects that stand off
the tank. Once again contrast is
important!
 7. Next step in the painting process
7 are the Tracks. I thin 1785 Rust
about 6/1 and spray it on the tracks
as close as possible not getting
any on other surfaces except the
tracks. Your airbrush should be
set to do a small spray which is
usually achieved by turning the air
pressure lower, and making sure
your paint is thinned. Remember
just get a hint of the color on the
tracks.

8 8. The model is now given a

Testors clear gloss coat only in
the areas that the decals will be
applied. I used the decals included
in the Initial Tiger I kit. When dry
spray the tank with Testors clear
flat and allow to dry for about 2
days. A flat finish is very important
to my step-by-step finishing.

9. Next step in the painting process

is the tools and equipment I paint
all tools and equipment on the tank
before final weathering. In painting
these items study the way metal
and wood looks in real life and
add the colors into your paint to
really get a good contrasting look
and make sure you use various
colors and shade as you can in
each item. Most important don’t
paint items just one color or shade.
I use acrylic paint but any paint
you are comfortable with will work.
The metal items are painted in
dark shades of brown, they will be
9 treated with a metallic finish later.
 10 Next step is the wash.
10 First I brush the model with clean
turpentine.

I put a dab of raw umber and

black oil paint on a pallet, the oil
paint is thinned and mixed with
turpentine on the pallet and then
applied to the model with a small
brush. I do not want the wash
to coat the entire model, it is
controlled just were I want it. This
is called a pin wash, apply to all of
the surface details to create false
shadows around each one, and
any excess wash is blended into
the surrounding surface once dry.
I streak raw umber only down the
sides like it would naturally, but
care should be taken not to overdo
this...be subtle. Note the difference
in the left side without the wash
and right side with wash.

Once the body of the tank’s wash

has dried it is turned on its side
and the road wheels are given a
wash. It is put on its side so the
wash stays around the bolts and
details not allowing the wash to
drain down to the bottom of the
wheels only. This gives all the
wheels a even effect all around.
 11. Next the tires/road wheels
are given a very thin wash of black
11 oil paint thinned with turpentine.
The wash works well because
stark black rubber is not realistic.
Let wash flow all around the road
wheels in the same manner.
It is impossible to add the wash
behind the road wheels but if you
can’t see it no one will see it is not
painted there.

12. Next step in the weathering

process is the paint chips &
12 scratches. I add chipped paint
with raw umber oil paint and a
small no. 3 brush. The key to chips
are make them small and without
any pattern, keeping them on the
most abused edges and damaged
areas. On older damaged areas
first paint the chip with burnt
sienna, then add the raw umber
inside the chip so the sienna
borders the umber. Use common
sense and remember that less is
more with chipped/worn areas, and
think very very small!

13. Next step is pastel pigment

weathering. I use pastels in the
13 same way you use pigments,
but I make my own powder. The
pastels are $1.00 a stick at the art
store and come in a large variety
of shades. I use a file to grind
them into powder. I mix them with
turpentine on a pallet and apply
them with a brush. Make sure you
thin the powder heavily because if
not it will dry and cover to much, a
little goes a long way!
Apply this mixture to the road
wheels as well.
 13 continued is the muffler pipes
13 get the same mixture of pastel
powder and turpentine but with
more of the rust color. Use a
thicker mixture this time.

14. Next step is metal accents

I use a no. 2 graphite pencil to add
14 the metal accents to the raised
parts of the tracks. I also add this
to the areas you can see on the
drive sprocket teeth.

The pencil is also used on the

metal tools. Just highlight the
edges of the tools and not the
entire metal area.
Finished Model
 Wiking Panther Ausf A

Because Dunkelgrau RAL 7021

presented a very stark contrast
against snow, OKH decided to
provide the troops with white
paint to paint the equipment
during the winter. The paint was
water-soluble, so that it would
run off the equipment when the
first rain started to wash away the
snow. To prevent having to re-
paint stencils, tactical numbers
and unit emblems, these were sparingly, if at all. Some units the conditions. For example,
often left without whitewash. had to be creative, using chalk where a solid white cover
or even sheets to provide some would blend in very well
Because of the large distances kind of camouflage. Stacked against a snow-covered field,
the whitewash had to be snow on the vehicles was also an irregular pattern would be
transported, and relatively small used. Some of these interim more suitable against woods
supplies of whitewash, several solutions were obviously better where the trees would be left
vehicles only received whitewash than others, also depending on uncovered with snow.
 1 1. The kit used is the Dragon
(DML) Panther Ausf. A late kit.
It was built using Cavalier 1/35
scale resin zimmerit #CV133
Late Production Horizontal Pattern
for DML Panther and Lion Roar’s
photo etch update set #LE35022.

2. The model is given a primer

2 coat to cover and protect the photo
etch parts and give the model
a good base to start the paint
process. I use a basic spray can
primer that can be purchased at
the local home store. This primer
coat makes painting the steps
much easier because you get a
smooth coat of color to allow you
to see all the areas that will be
needed to be painted in the steps
used to shade and high light the
model.

3
3. The paint that will be used to
airbrush is model will be Testors
Model Master enamel paint: 2142
Flat White, 2005 Burnt Umber,
2102 Afrika Braun, 1785 Rust,
2091 Dunkelgrun, and 2007 Burnt
Sienna.
 4. The first step in the painting
4 process is the pre-shade this is
the darkest shadow color. 2005
Burnt Umber is used in this step.
What you are trying to achieve
in this is to make sure any areas
that your light source cannot hit
is painted. You are for the most
part adding artificial shadows. All
the recesses, corners, tracks, and
under objects that stand off the
tank. It is also best achieved in
some areas by painting the areas
from under the tank as to just paint
under the objects.

5. Next step in the painting process

5 is the base coat this is the main
color. 2102 Afrika Braun is used
in this step. This paint is used
as I feel it is a better shade than
Dunkelgelb. What you are trying to
achieve in this step is to make sure
you cover the areas that were not
painted in the pre-shade painting.
As you can see you don’t have
to worry about being perfect
just make sure you can see the
shadow for the most part and a
blending effect is achieved. I left
more 2005 Burnt Umber showing
since the final paint will be white
this will give more contrast.

6 6. Next step in the painting process

is the 1st camo color. 2091
(Dunkelgrun) and 2nd camo color.
2007 Burnt Sienna. Since the tank
numbers will be masked to show
through the white wash camo. I
used a No. 1 flat brush to hand
paint this in. You must let the base
coat dry completely for a few
days before hand painting over it.
As you can see I only added this
camo colors to a few places to give
the hint that the white wash is over
a 3 color scheme. You may wish
to add more camo colors to show
through the white as you desire.
 7. Next step in the painting process
7 is the Mask. Since the tank will
be white washed I wanted the unit
numbers to show as my reference
photo showed. I used painters
masking tape to cover the area
the decal unit numbers would be
applied.

8 8. Next step in the painting process

is the white wash color. 2142
Flat White is used in this step.
What you are trying to achieve is
to make sure any areas of your
light source can hit is painted.
Paint all the high spots, centers of
any panels and the tops of objects
that stand off the tank. Cover most
areas of the tank but leave areas
like corners and cracks, indentions
and the tracks unpainted. Contrast
is important!

9. The model is now given a

Testors clear gloss coat only in
the areas that the decals will be
applied. Echelon™ Decal set No.
AXT351015 is used to represent a
Wiking Panther. Micro Sol is used
to set and flatten the decals into
the cracks of the zimmerit. When
the decals dry you may have to
puncture with a xacto knife blade
tip any areas that don’t set down
and then reapply some Micro Sol.
When dry spray the tank with
Testors clear flat.
10
10. Next step in the painting
process is the tools and
equipment I paint all tools and
equipment on the tank before final
weathering. In painting these items
study the way metal and wood
looks in real life and add the colors
into your paint to really get a good
contrasting look and make sure
you use various colors and shade
as you can in each item. Most
important don’t paint items just one
color or shade. I use acrylic paint
but any paint you are comfortable
with will work. The metal items are
painted in dark shades, they will be
treated with a metallic finish later.
I use German Black Brown Acrylic
paint for the metal items.
If you miss a few tiny spots the raw
umber wash will hide and blend the
items together.

11. Next step is the wash.

11 First I brush the model with clean
turpentine. I put a dab of raw
umber oil paint on a pallet, the oil
paint is thinned with turpentine on
the pallet and then applied to the
model with a small brush. I do not
want the wash to coat the entire
model, it is controlled just were I
want it. This is called a pin wash,
apply to all of the surface details
to create false shadows around
each one, and any excess wash
is blended into the surrounding
surface once dry. I streak it down
the sides like it would naturally, but
care should be taken not to overdo
this...be subtle.

Note the difference in the left side

without the wash and right side
with wash.
 12 12. Once the body of the tank’s
wash has dried it is turned on its
side and the road wheels are given
a wash. It is put on its side so the
wash stays around the bolts and
details not allowing the wash to
drain down to the bottom of the
wheels only. This gives all the
wheels a even effect all around..

13 13. Next step is pastel pigment

weathering. I use pastels in the
same way you use pigments,
but I make my own powder. The
pastels are $1.00 a stick at the art
store and come in a large variety
of shades. I use a file to grind
them into powder. I mix them with
turpentine on a pallet and apply
them with a brush. Make sure you
thin the powder heavily because if
not it will dry and cover to much, a
little goes a long way!
The spare tracks get pastel
washes using shades of rust, and
olive green pastel powder. Apply
the rust shade first and then add
blotches of the brown and olive
after. When the wash dries it is
quite convincing giving a good
representation of weathered iron.
Add this same mixtures to the
metal areas of the tools.

The muffler pipes get the same

mixture of pastel powder as the
tracks but with more of the rust
color added.

Pastels dried on tracks

 14. Next step in the weathering
process. The tracks get a earth
color pastel pigment thinned
heavily with turpentine. Make
sure you thin the powder heavily
because if not it will dry and cover
to much of the tracks, a little goes
a long way!

Apply this mixture to the road

wheels as well.
14

15
15. Next step in the weathering
process is the paint chips &
scratches. I add chipped paint
with raw umber oil paint and a
small brush. The key to chips are
make them small and without
any pattern, keeping them on the
most abused edges and damaged
areas. On older damaged areas
first paint the chip with burnt
sienna, then add the raw umber
inside the chip so the sienna
borders the umber. Chips on the
zimmerit will be a grey color. Use
common sense and remember that
less is more with chipped/worn
areas, and think very very small!
 17. Next step is metal accents
I use a no. 2 graphite pencil to add
the metal accents to the raised
parts of the tracks. I also add this
to the areas you can see on the
inner road wheels which rub on the
outer wheels.

17

The pencil is also used on the

metal tools. Just highlight the
edges of the tools and not the
entire metal area.

Sprocket teeth and track teeth also

receive the same treatment

18
18. Next the road wheels are
given a wash of black oil paint
thinned with turpentine. The wash
works well because stark black
rubber is not realistic. Notice
the wheel on the right that has
received the wash.
Finished Model
Stay tune for more Step-by-Step
Armor Finishing Projects!

A complete step-by-step guide

to painting and finishing WWII
German Armor

$1.95 USA
Bladerunner8u Production, © 2009
[email protected]
12/14/09