Journal of Asian Civilizations

CHAPTER 2

MUSLIM ARCHITECTURE

2.1. Forts and Fortresses

2.1. 1. Sangni Fort (Fig. 2.1.1-2.1.3)

Tehsil: Gujar Khan, District: Rawalpindi, Province: Punjab

Nature of site: Fort
Measurement: Length: 44m, Width: 44m, Height: 9.5m
Location and Approach:
The Sangni Fort, built at the junction of two deep ravines of Beval Kas,
is located about 04km north-west of Beval town, 9km from Kallar
Syedan and 50km south-east of Rawalpindi.

Description:
The fort has a roughly square in plan, measuring 44m northwest and
44m east west. The height of the walls is 9.5m. There are four bastions,
in part octagonal and in part semi-circular, a half abutting inside and the
others projecting outside on all sides, except for the eastern sides which
are 2.43m high and some 1.21m wide with a solid beam for the soldiers
and archery-holes (arrow-silts). The four corner bastions are hallow from
inside with a flight of steps going to the top. The walls and bastions have
been provided with archery-holes (arrow-silts) and merlons. In the
middle of the western wall is an outwardly projecting chamber with an
opening in its floor leading to the water reservoir of Bewal Kas down to
150m. This opening was for fetching water from the reservoir even in
case of siege. In the western part of the fort is the tomb of Sahibzada
Abdul Hakim who, according to the local traditions, had migrated from
Iran. The beauty of the area fascinated the saint and he settled in Sangni
Fort. People of the surrounding villages came to the tomb to pay homage
to the holy saint. The fort is constructed in standard size bricks masonry
laid in lime mortar. Main gate is provided on the southern side flanked
by two octagonal bastions. The Sikh rule in this area dates back to 1765
when Gujar Singh Bangi wrested power from Ghakkhars (Ashraf Khan
et al. 2009: 2-3).
Period: Sikh period.

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State of Preservation: Well preserved.

Map of Sangni Fort

Plan of Sangni Fort

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2.1.2. Rawat Fort-cum-Caravan Serai (Fig. 2.1.4-2.1.6)

Capital Territory Islamabad

Nature of site: Fort-cum-Caravan Serai
Measurement: Length: 100m, Width: 100m, Height:17.89ft
Location and Approach:
The fort is located about 18km from Rawalpindi on the right of Grand
Trunk Road towards Jhelum.

Description:
Rawat, a corruption of an Arabic word Rabat meaning Serai, seems
originally to be an old times Serai which later on was also used as a fort.
Rawat Fort-cum-Serai is square in plan, having four gates on the eastern
and northern sides provide access to the interior of the complex while
the southern one has been blocked in later period. The western gateway
was demolished during the construction of the mosque. It is enclosed by
a high wall having semi circular bastions on its four corners. The fort has
been constructed in rubble stone and burnt bricks.
The parapet has medium size arch shape plan merlons which is usually
in all Serais.
The three domed mosque measures 29.27m and 12m in the
middle of the western wing now completely renovated. Unfortunately,
much work of renovation has been carried out (plastered both externally
and internally) at the mosque, which had been impossible to see the
original features of the Suri Period. In the northwest corner of the fort is
an octagonal domed mausoleum built in three stages measuring 7m in
stone and brick masonry, without any cenotaph, believed to be the tomb
of Sardar Sarang Khan, the Ghakkhar Chief. Another tomb, square in
plan was constructed in stone blocks and bricks, laid in lime mortar,
stands in the southern part of the complex, now completely in ruined
condition. There are numerous scattered graves built on raised platforms
within the fortification. These graves are probably of the Sultan Sarang
and his brothers killed in the battle between the forces of Sher Shah Suri
under the Khawas Khan and Ghakkhar army led by Sultan Sarang,
brother of Sultan Adam Khan in 1542 C.E. There are regular rows of
identical living cells along the four sides of quadrangular inner face of the
defensive walls overlooking the inner courtyard. The cells are square in
plan, provided with arched entrance and a domical ceiling in front by a
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rectangular vestibule connecting it with the central courtyard (Shaikh

2005:63-65).
Period: It is said to have been built in the 1540 C.E, during the Sher
Shah Suri period.
State of Preservation: Good Condition

Plan of Rwat Fort, Capital Territory Islamabad (After: Shaikh 2005)

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2.1.3. Dhan Gali Fort (Fig. 2.1.7)

Tehsil: Kallar Syedan, District: Rawalpindi Province: Punjab

Nature of site: Fortress
Measurement: Length: 140m, Width: 23m, Height: 25m
Location and Approach:
The Fort is situated in a picturesque valley of Dhan Gali 10km northwest
of Kallar Syedan town and 20m on the right side of the road leading to
Kashmir.

Description:
The fort is rectangular in shape and is located on the top of a hill
measuring 140x123 m while the height of the remains of the wall is 25
m. It is made of small burnt bricks masonry laid in lime mortar and
plaster, traces of which are still visible on the walls. The walls of the
fortress are reinforced by semi-circular bastion, ten on the northern and
eight on the southern side. The fortress, probably, was constructed
during the Mughal period to safeguard the valley. The fortress was used
by the garrisons to control the road to protect travellers from bands of
robbers and for swift transmission of the royal mail (Ashraf Khan et al.
2009: 4).

Findings:
A good number of potsherds of carinated pots with averted rim and
pieces of mill stone were also found inside the fortress.
Period: Mughal Period
State of Preservation: Abandoned and in ruined condition.

2.1.4. Pharwala Fort (Fig. 2.1.8)

Capital Territory Islamabad

Nature of Site: Fort
Measurement: Length: 1262m Width: 1052m Height: 5m
Location:
Pharwala Fort is located about 24km from Islamabad on the left bank of
river Soan on the keral hills north of village Alikot.

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Description
The fort was built by Sultan Kaighor Alias Ghakkhar Shah, an associate
of Sultan Mahmood of Ghazna in 1000 C.E. The fort has six Gates
flanked by semi-circular bastions. The fortification wall is massive and is
9ft in thickness and over 5m in height. Several gates of the fort are still
quite imposing. The Hathi Gate, meant for the movement of elephants
and horses, Begum Gate for the movement of royal women, Ziarat gate
leading to the graveyard of the family, Lashkari gate meant for army,
Bagh gate to the garden. Across the river Soan and on the western side
of the fort there are remains of the mosque and graves of the Ghakkhar
ruler of Sultan Adam Khan, Sultan Momare Khan and of the later ruler
Sultan Muqarab Khan. Babar conquered the fort in 1519 CE with the
help of the Ghakkhar of the area, who helped them on the first battle of
Panipat. Humayun came to Pharwala Fort in 1534 CE on the invitation
of Sultan Adam Khan the ruler of this region. It is here that the eyes of
Humayun’s brother Kamran, were put out on the decision of war
council in 1554 C.E. According to the collected historical sources,
during the period of Akbar 10,000 infantry, 50 elephants, 200 horses
and 15000 cavalry of the Ghakkhars were garrisoned for the defense of
the area. During the Sikh rule 1825 C.E, Sardar Budu Singh captured it
from Ghakkhars and expelled them from the fort. The fort has been
constructed in small burnt bricks masonry laid in kankar lime mortar
and plaster (Shaikh 2005:61-63).
Period: Ghaznavid to Mughal.
Stat of Persevation: Dilapidated Condition

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Plan of Pharwala Fort, Tomb and Mosque, Capital Territory Islamabad

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Forts and Fortresses: District Rawalpindi

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Fig. 2.1.1: General View of the Sangni Fort, Gujar Khan

Fig. 2.1.2: Closer View of the Bastion and fortification wall of the Sangni Fort,
Gujar Khan

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Fig. 2.1.3: Main Entrance of the Sangni Fort, Gujar Khan

Fig. 2.1.4: Interior View of Rawat Fort-cum-Serai, Islamabad

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Fig. 2.1.5: General View of Sardar Sarang Khan Ghakkhar Tomb, Rawat Fort-cum-
Serai, Islamabad

Fig. 2.1.6: Rawat Fort-cum-Serai Mosque, Islamabad

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Fig. 2.1.7: Bastion and fortification wall of the Dhan Gali Fort, Kallar Syedan

Fig. 2.1.8: Main entrance of the Pharwala Fort, (Hathi Gate), Islamabad

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2.2. Mosques
2.2.1. Pharwala Mosque (Fig. 2.2.1)

Bagh Jogian, Islamabad, Nature of Site: Mosque

Measurement: Length: 10m Width: 5m Height: 5m
Location:
The mosque is located about 500m northwest of Pharwala Fort and
24kms east of Islamabad on the bank of river Soan on the Keral Hills
north of village Alikot.

Description:
The mosque is rectangular in plan with three entrances provided through
rectangular doors in its eastern wall. The mosque has been constructed
in lime stone with lime mortar plaster from inside. The façade and the
interior have recessed decorative panels with pointed arches in small
sized burnt bricks. The interior of the mosque is a single chamber which
is divided into three domed portions separated by two arches on equal
distances. The domes were corbelled in style. There were three mehrabs
in each portion of the mosque in which the central one was for daily
prayers while the other two seems to have been carved out for
symmetrical purposes and decoration. Rounded domes have been
constructed in burnt bricks on the main prayer chamber. The traces of
the enclosure wall of the courtyard are visible.
Period: Ghaznavid.
Stat of Preservation: Abandoned and in ruined condition.

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Plan of Pharwala Mosque, Islamabad Capital Territory

2.2.2. Dhan Gali Mosque (Fig. 2.2.2)

Tehsil: Kallar Sayedan, District: Rawalpindi, Province: Punjab

Nature of site: Mosque
Measurement: Length: 10m, Width: 10m, Height: 3m.
Location and approach:
The site is located in Dhan Gali, Tehsil Kallar Syedan

Description:
Remains of a mosque making part of a fort in the past were found on the
small hill top. The mosque was constructed in stone masonry and
plastered in lime mortar. The main chamber of the mosque was
approached by an entrance provided on the east after passing through a
veranda. There are niches inside the chamber for keeping lamps. The
mosque seems to have been part of a settlement complex where a

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considerable number of pottery pieces were collected.

Period: Mughal
State of Preservation: Abandon and in ruined condition

Plan of Dhan Gali Mosque, District Rawalpindi

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Mosques: Islamabad Capital Territory and District Rawalpindi

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Fig. 2.2.1: Pharwala Mosque, Bagh Jogiyan, Islamabad

Fig. 2.2.2: Remains of the Mosque of Rani Mangho at Dhan Gali, Tehsil Kallar
Syedan

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2.3. Tombs and Graveyards

2.3.1. Rani Mangho Tomb (Fig. 2.3.1)

Tehsil: Kallar Sayedan, District: Rawalpindi, Province: Punjab

Nature of site: Tomb
Measurement: Length: 7.3m, Width: 7.3m, Height: 3m
Location and approach:
The tomb is located at Dhan Gali, Tehsil Kallar Syedan, Distt.
Rawalpindi.

Description:
The tomb is square in plan. Entrances are provided on three sides, i.e.
North, East and South. Mehrab is present in the western wall. The tomb
was constructed in sand stone and brick masonry, plastered with lime
mortar. Stairs have been provided on the southern corner of the tomb
from outside the roof. The width of the entrance of the tomb is 1.5m,
while the height is 2.60m. There are no traces of cenotaph inside the
tomb while a small grave on the northern side of the tomb is present.
Period: Mughal
State of Preservation: Bad state of preservation

Plan of Rani Mangho Tomb

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2.3.2. Pharwala Graveyard and Tomb

Bagh Jogiyan, Islamabad Capital Territory

Nature of Site: Graveyard and Tomb
Measurements of Tomb: Length 7m Width 7m Height 3.5m

Description
Graves:
In the north of the Pharwala mosque, there are graves of the Ghakkhar
rulers Sultan Adam Khan, Sultan Momare Khan and the tomb of the last
ruler Sultan Muqarab Khan.
Tomb:
The tomb is octagonal in shape having its entrance to the east. It has low
height dome decorated with leaf patterns. In the interior of the tomb
there are three false arches on the remaining three sides, leaving the wall
having entrance. The tomb was constructed in stone masonry and
plastered with cement plaster in later times. Adjacent to the tomb on the
southern direction there are the remains of a structure, probably, used
by the custodian (majawar) of the shrine.
Period: Ghakkhar
Stat of Preservation: Dilapidated Condition.

2.3.3. Palina Graveyard (Fig. 2.3.2)

Tehsil: Kallar Syedan, District: Rawalpindi, Province: Punjab

Nature of site: Graveyard
Measurement: Length: 30m, Width: 25m, Height: 3.5m
Location and Approach:
The graveyard is located about 500m on the north of Village Palina

Description:
The remains of enclosure wall and graves probably of the early Mughal
period constructed with stone pebbles, laid in lime mortar and plastered
with lime surkhi have been reported. The enclosure contains some
graves of small bricks and stones. The enclosure wall of the graveyard is
decorated with false arches and Mehrabs decorated with rosette in relief.
At the upper limits, the plaster was convex which is characteristic of the
early Mughal period style.
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Period: Mughal
State of Preservation: Ruined condition

2.3.4. Mohra Malhiar Graveyard (Fig. 2.3.3-2.3.4)

Shah Allah Ditta, Islamabad Capital Territory

Nature of the Site: Graveyard
Measurement: Length: 20m, Width: 18m, Height: 2m
Location and Approach:
The graveyard is situated towards the west of Shah Allah Ditta Village,
and 14km northwest of Islamabad.

Description:
A graveyard belonging to the early Mughal period, with in enclosure,
decorated with false arches and constructed with small bricks (35 X45
cm), which is laid in lime mortar, has been reported. The graveyard has
a monumental gateway (measuring 3.5X3.5m) decorated with a pointed
arch. The enclosure contains many graves of small bricks in lime stone
which are in much dilapidated condition and covered with wild growth.
Period: Mughal
State of Preservation: Abandoned and in ruined condition

Tombs and Graveyards: Distict Rawalpindi, Islamabad & Capital

Territory

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Fig. 2.3.1: The tomb of Rani Mangho, Kallar Syedan

Fig. 2.3.2: View of Palina Graveyard Enclosure Wall, Kallar Syedan

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Fig. 2.3.3: View of Mohra Malhiar graveyard, Shah Allah Ditta, Islamabad

Fig. 2.3.4: View of Gate, Mohra Malhiar graveyard, Shah Allah Ditta, Islamabad

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2.4. Serais
2.4.1. Serai Kharbuza (Fig. 2.4.1)

Islamabad Capital Territory

Nature of site: Serai
Measurement: Length: 420m,Width: 420m, Height: 15m
Location and Approach:
Serai Kharbuza is located about 15km northwest of Rawalpindi and on
the right side of the Grand Trunk Road leading to Peshawar.

Description:
A splendid monument of Mughal Period, Serai Kharbuza is square in
plan with two arched-gateways provided in the northern and southern
walls of the Serai complex. The Serai has a series of living cells with a
veranda in front along the parameter wall. The parapet has medium size
simple and plain merlons, staircases were provided in the corner mental
bastions. The Serai has been constructed in small bricks masonry and
plastered in lime-surkhi. The mosque, built in the north-western corner
of the Serai, is now completely repaired and plastered with cement
mortar. An ancient well constructed in burnt brick masonry, is to the
northern side of the mosque. The interior of the mosque was painted
with fresco paintings. The Mehrab is painted in floral design in blue,
orange and green colour. There were also the remains of the baoli of
Suri period, now covered by the mosque of this Serai (Dar 1994: 15-68).
Period: Suri/Mughal era.
State of Preservation: Dilapidated Condition.

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Plan of Serai Kharbuza, Islamabad and Capital Territory

2.4.2. Pakka Khanpur Serai (Fig. 2.4.2)

Tehsil: Gujar Khan, District: Rawalpindi, Province: Punjab

Nature of site: Serai
Measurement: Length: 130m, Width: 130m, Height: 7.62m
Location and Approach:
The Serai is located in the village of the same name and 35km northeast
of Gujar Khan town along the major Mughal trade route leading into
Lahore and Kashmir.

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Description:
Pakka Khanpur Serai is square in plan and a magnificent example of the
Mughal architecture. Its entrance was through a monumental arched-
gateway in the northern wall. It has a double-storey gateway with two
rooms to accommodate the watchmen. The façade of the gateway is
decorated with four centered blind arch panels. The Parapet has
medium size, simple and plain merlons. The Staircases were of small
burnt bricks masonry, laid in lime surkhi and plaster. The remains of
one mosque and another renovated one are in its courtyard. The
mosque constructed in the western wall is now completely ruined, while
the southern one has been completely rebuilt.
According to S. R. Dar, “Serai Pakka is unique in one respect
that it contained two mosques- one for men in the courtyard (it was intact
in 1968 but now rebuilt completely) and another for females in the
western wall (now in complete ruins).”(Dar 1985, JCA, Vol 27 No.12 pp
15-68) The idea does not find confirmation from the results of the
survey and investigation, which show that the Serais were used as
caravans of traders and not for habitation. Thus it is unlikely that there
was a separate mosque for females inside it. Instead the two mosques
might have been built for two religious sects. The Serai has an ancient
well (4.40m in diameter) made of burnt bricks, which is still utilised by
the inhabitants of the Serai. The living cells are of 3.30x2.70m in all four
walls with a veranda in front, which they open into the central courtyard.
The height of the cells is 3m and the thickness of the wall 80cm. Only 13
original cells are still preserved while others have been renovated and
occupied by the local people.
The Serai was mentioned in the travel notes of William Finch
(1611 C.E.) as discussed in (Ansari 1975: 32 and Foster 1921: 108). It
was also mentioned by Martin Neill (1845: 308) who passed from here
while on military tour sometimes between 1839 C.E. and 1842 C.E., and
recorded in the narrative of 2nd Sikh war by Edward Thackwell (1870:
136) as having been reached by the British army on the 8 march 1848. It
was also mentioned by Harri Ram Guptas’s (1999: 14) history of the
Sikh as the location from which Sahzaman addressed a letter to Ranjit
Singh (1780-1839) in 1796 C.E. (Campbell, 2010:77; Ashraf Khan et al.
2009: 3-4; Dar 1994: 15-68).
Period: Suri/Mughal Period.
State of Preservation: Dilapidated Condition
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Plan of Serai Pakka Khanpur, District Rawalpindi

(After: Campbell 2010)

Serais: Islamabad Capital Territory and District Rawalpindi

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Fig. 2.4.1: General View of the Serai Kharbuza, Islamabad Capital Territory

Fig. 2.4.2: General View of the Main Entrance of Pakka Khanpur Serai, Gujar Khan,
District Rawalpindi

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2.5. Baolis
2.5.1. Kenthala Baoli (Fig. 2.5.1)

Tehsil: Haripur near Shah Allah Ditta Caves, District: Haripur,

Province: KPK.
Nature of Site: Baoli
Measurement: Length: 11.3m, Width: 3.50m, Height: 04m
Location and approach:
The Baoli is situated 1km north of Shah Allah Ditta Caves on an ancient
route coming down from Taxila valley and 500 m south of Kenthala
village in Haripur Tehsil.

Description:
The Kenthala Baoli is in much better condition and architectural
features are well preserved, exhibiting a circular well of 2.50 dia and a
separate access through comparably descending flight of 35 steps. The
structure is oriented east-west. The well has been sunk down to eastern
side of the access gateway. It is rectangular in shape and has been
constructed in dressed lime stone masonry laid in lime mortar. A
stairway descends directly from the platform and ends up at a similar
small landing built-up at a short level above the water table.
Period: Suri Period.
State of Preservation: Good state of preservation.

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Plan of Kenthala Baoli, District Haripur

2.5.2. Shah Bagh Baoli (Fig. 2.5.2)

Tehsil: Kallar Syedan, District: Rawalpindi, Province: Punjab

Nature of site: Baoli
Measurement: Length: 18m, Width: 03m, Height: 05m
Location and Approach:
The Baoli of Shah Bagh is located at Ghazanabad village and 10km
north-east of Rawat Town on the left side of the Road leading to Kallar
Syedan.

Description: The Baoli measures 18m and it includes a circular well,

4m in diameter, staircase of 35 steps, and is well preserved. It is
rectangular in shape, constructed of brick masonry laid in lime mortar.
Traces of lime plaster are still visible. The structure is oriented east-west,
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the well is sunk to west of the stepped access way. The steps are built in
dressed schist stone slabs. Its structure is comparable to that of Kenthala
Baoli near Shah Allah Ditta Caves in Islamabad, with the only exception
that the Kenthla Baoli has been constructed in limestone masonry. It is
perfectly preserved. The Baoli was used to quench the thirst of the
travelers and their animals. Such baolis are frequently found along the
ancient routes constructed during the Sher Shah Suri and Mughal
periods (Ashraf Khan et al. 2009: 5).
Period: Suri Period
State of Preservation: Perfectly preserved.

Plan of Shah Bagh Baoli, District Rawalpindi

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2.5.3. Shershah Baoli (Fig. 2.5.3-2.5.4)

Tehsil: Gujar Khan, District: Rawalpindi, Province: Punjab

Nature of site: Baoli
Measurement: Length: 5.50m, Width: 4.9m, Height: 6m
Location and Approach:
The Sher Shah Baoli is located in the village of the same name, about
05km from Gujar Khan and on the left side of Grand Trunk Road
leading to Rawalpindi.

Description:
The Baoli, rectangular in shape, consist of a circular well (Dia 07 m) and
a flight of stairs with fourteen steps descending from a platform. The
Baoli is oriented north-south. The Baoli has been constructed in brick
masonry laid in lime mortar. The Baoli was constructed on an ancient
route and its water was used to quench the thirst of the travelers and their
animals. Such Baolis are frequently found along the ancient route
constructed during the Shershah Suri and Mughal Period.
Period: Suri/Mughal period.
State of Preservation: Abandoned and in a ruined condition.

Plan of Shershah Baoli, District Rawalpindi

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Baolis: District Rawalpindi and Haripur

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Fig. 2.5.1: General View of Kenthla Boali, Haripur (near Shah Allah Ditta Caves)
Islamabad Capital Territory

Fig.2.5.2: Shah Bagh Boali, Kallar Syedan, District Rawalpindi

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Fig. 2.5.3: Sher Shah Boali, Gujar Khan, District Rawalpindi

Fig. 2.5.4: Sign Board along Sher Shah Boali, Gujar Khan, District Rawalpindi

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