AUTEX Research Journal, Vol. 19, No 1, March 2019, DOI: 10.

1515/aut-2018-0035 © AUTEX

COMPARISON OF MECHANICAL AND THERMAL COMFORT PROPERTIES OF TENCEL BLENDED

WITH REGENERATED FIBERS AND COTTON WOVEN FABRICS

Abdul Basit1, Wasif Latif1, Munir Ashraf2, Abdur Rehman2, Kashif Iqbal2*,
Hafiz Shahzad Maqsood1, Abdul Jabbar1, Sajjad Ahmad Baig3

1
Department of Yarn Manufacturing, National Textile University, 37610, Faisalabad, Pakistan
2
Department of Textile Processing, National Textile University, 37610, Faisalabad, Pakistan
3
Department of Business Administration, National Textile University, 37610, Faisalabad, Pakistan
*Corresponding e-mail address: [email protected]

Abstract:

The demand of cotton is increasing but its low production rate cannot fulfill the world requirements. The increase in
cotton demand has augmented the production of regenerated cellulosic fibers. Furthermore, cotton has proved to
be unsustainable because of the use of huge amount of fresh water, pesticides and insecticides. The purpose of this
work is to find out the suitable blend/blends of regenerated fibers so as to replace 100% cotton fabrics. Therefore,
mechanical and comfort properties of Tencel fabrics blended with other regenerated cellulose fibers have been
compared with 100% cotton to achieve the equivalent or even better end properties. Hence, cotton, viscose, Tencel,
modal, and bamboo fibers were taken. Plain woven blended fabrics of 100% cotton and 50:50 blends of Tencel
with other regenerated fibers were prepared from normal yarn count of 20 tex. The mechanical properties (warp-
wise and weft-wise tensile and tear strengths, pilling, and abrasion resistance) and the comfort properties including
air permeability, moisture management properties, and thermal resistance were evaluated. It is found that Tencel
blended fabrics show better results than 100% cotton fabrics. Therefore, it is concluded that Tencel blended with
these regenerated fabrics can be used to replace 100% cotton fabrics.

Keywords:

Tencel, regenerated blends, mechanical properties, comfort properties, woven fabrics

1. Introduction spectral analysis of FTIR shows that Tencel is highly crystalline

than other fibers having crystalline cellulose II and amorphous
The production of textile fibers has grown to nearly 100 million cellulose. In this way, Tencel is found to have more thermal
metric tonnes, with major categories being synthetics (63%), stability than modal and viscose [4]. All the regenerated fibers
cotton (24%), regenerated cellulosic (7%), other natural fibers are biodegradable, of which Tencel fiber has high strength,
(5%), and wool fibers (1 %) [1]. Of the water present on earth, which contains water in its structure as a source of heat
fresh water that is consumable for human, animal, or plant is capacity that helps in human body’s temperature regulation.
0.65%, and only 0.3% of fresh water is renewable. Among the
different crops, cotton requires much water, damaging freshwater Modal is a modified form of viscose with induced high wet
ecosystem globally. Even though cotton fiber is sustainable, strength, high comfort, fine lustre, hand, smoothness, wicking
the production of 1 kg of cotton fiber needs more than 20,000 properties, and performance properties such as strength and
l of water, consuming 24% and 11% of global insecticide and modulus. Bamboo fiber is extremely soft, cool, and breathable
pesticides consumption, respectively. Also, cotton crop uses and has higher luster and more moisture absorption. In addition,
2.4% of world’s crop land. Moreover, cotton cultivation destructs it has anti-UV properties and inherent antibacterial properties.
ecosystems in various parts of the globe [2]. The microgaps and microholes present in the cross section of
bamboo fiber enhance moisture absorption and ventilation [5].
As only 7% of the regenerated fibers are being used currently, Organic Crop Improvement Association (OCIA) has certified
these have great potential for use in textile clothing. Three bamboo viscose fiber as an organic fiber that can be degraded
generations of regenerated cellulosic fibers, such as viscose, by microorganisms and sunshine [6]. Viscose fibers are also
modal, bamboo, and Tencel fibers are the most important hydrophilic. These inherent physiological fiber properties are
fibers because of certain properties regarding textiles and ideal for moisture management. The moisture management
environment. Different production processes and conditions for properties ensure an ample temperature balance on the skin
conventional viscose, modal, bamboo, and new Tencel fibers by enhancing the overall thermal comfort.
cause differences in the structure of the fibers, although they
have similar chemical compositions [3]. Many studies in which Tencel having outstanding properties
was blended with other fibers to study different yarn and fabric
The microstructure and thermal properties of Tencel, modal, and properties were conducted. Blended yarns of Tencel, cotton, and
viscose fibers were analyzed using DSC, FTIR, and TG. The modal were studied, and it was found that Tencel:cotton blend

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has better mechanical properties [7]. Similarly, it was found that spinning by blending the fibers in Blow room. The machines
pure Tencel yarns and its blends have better quality than other used in this study are listed in Table 3.
blends [8]. Tencel gives excellent properties in both pure as well
as blended form and can be used in sports wear [9]. In a study of Table 2. Blend ratios
thermal comfort properties of bamboo and Tencel knitted fabrics,
it was found that increase in blend ratio of Tencel increases Yarns Ratio
air permeability, water vapor permeability, and increases
Cotton 100
thermal resistance [10]. Comparative analysis of thermal
insulation properties of fabrics made of cotton and Tencel was Tencel:modal 50:50
conducted. The finished Tencel fabrics showed lower values of
Tencel:viscose 50:50
thermal conductivity and thermal absorption than cotton fabrics
and higher values of thermal diffusion and resistance. [11]. Tencel:bamboo 50:50
Dimensional properties of viscose, modal, and lyocell single Table 3. Machinery for Yarn manufacturing
jersey knitted fabrics were studied with three different loop
lengths in dry, wet and relaxed conditions. The lyocell fabrics S. No. Machine Make
showed higher bursting strength and lower spirality than modal 01 Blow room Rieter, Truzschler
and viscose fabrics due to the structure of lyocell fibers [12]. 02 Card MK-5 Crosrol
03 Drawing frame DX8, RSB D 30
The current research has been focused on the use of Tencel 04 Comber Toyoda VC-5A
fibers along with other cellulosic blends (50:50) to replace 05 Simplex Toyota FL-16
100% cotton fabric because Tencel has better mechanical 06 Ring frame Toyota RY-4
and comfort properties because of the presence of water in its
crystalline structure. The use of regenerated blends to optimize 2.2.2 Fabric samples preparation
their properties has not been reported yet. The mechanical,
thermal, and comfort properties have been evaluated and Plain woven fabrics of 120 gsm having construction of 76 × 68
reported in this study. per inch were prepared on CCI loom (model SL 8900S) made
of Taiwan. The loom had a reed of 35 with a speed of 36 picks/
min. The total number of warp ends was 1120.
2. Materials and Methods
2.2.3 Fabric Processing
2.1 Materials
The sample fabrics were first desized (detail is given in Table
Cotton as well as the regenerated fibers (bamboo, viscose, 4) and then scoured and bleached (detail is given in Table 5).
modal and Tencel) were used in this work. The specifications
of all fibers used in this research are elaborated in Table 1. Table 4. Detail of Desizing process

2.2 Methods Detergent (2g/L)

Desizer (5g/L)
2.2.1 Yarn Production
Time (6 h)
Four blended yarns of 20 tex with different ratios given in
Temperature (40°C)
Table 2 were prepared. The yarns were produced through ring
Table 1. Specifications of cotton, Tencel, modal, viscose, and bamboo fibers

Parameters Cotton Tencel Modal Viscose Bamboo

Breaking Tenacity (cN/tex) 27.9 21 25 35 36
Elongation (%) 6.6 17 20 13 14
Staple/Cut Length (mm) 27.3 38 39 39 38
Linear Density (dtex) 1.46 1.3 1.3 1.3 1.3
Moisture (%) 8.5 11 11 11 13
Length Uniformity (%) 83.6 - - - -
Micronaire (μg/inch) 4.6 - - - -
Rd value 73.3 - - - -
Short Fiber Index 33.4 - - - -
+b value 8.6 - - - -

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Table 5. Detail of Scouring and Bleaching processes

of Tencel and modal fibers than bamboo, viscose, and cotton
H2O2 (35 ml/L)) fibers. The Tencel:modal yarn exhibits higher strength as the
longer chains of Tencel and modal polymer structure make
NaOH (10 ml/L)
them highly crystalline, giving high strength [4] [13-14] [15-
Stabilizer (5ml/L 16]. The yarn blends of Tencel with viscose and bamboo and
100% cotton give the same strength (18.68–19.16 cN/tex). The
Wetting Agent 2 (g/L)
elongations of all the regenerated blends are found to be same
Time (40 min) (15.5–15.89%); however, cotton yarn elongation is only 4.1%
because cotton is a rigid fiber with only 6 % elongation.
Temperature (90oC)

2.2.4 Testing

The mechanical and thermal comfort has been tested as given

in Table 6.

3. Results and Discussion

3.1. Properties of Yarns

The different properties of the prepared yarns are elaborated

in Table 7. Moreover, the tenacities and elongation percentage
of yarns are represented in Figure 1. The Tencel:modal yarn
gives higher strength (21.42 cN/tex) than other regenerated Figure 1. Mechanical properties of yarns
blends and 100% cotton fiber. It is due to the higher tenacity
Table 6. Summary of testing

S. No. Equipment Testing Model Standard

ASTM D2256 / D2256M
1 Yarn tensile tester Yarn tensile properties Tensojet 2000
- 10e1
Warp and weft tensile
2 Tensile tester 1992 ASTM D5035 – 11
strength of fabrics
Warp and weft tear
3 Elmendorf’s Tear tester 1992 ASTM D1424 - 09(2013).
strength of fabrics
Determination of pilling
4 Martindale tester 1992 ASTM D 4970-02
resistance of fabrics
Determination of abrasion
5 Martindale abrasion tester 1992 ASTM D 4966-98
resistance of fabrics
Moisture management Determination of moisture
6 M-290 AATCC 195-2009
tester management of fabrics
7 Air permeability tester Air permeability of fabrics M-021A ASTM D737-04 (2012)
Thermal resistance of
8 Thermal resistivity tester M-259B ASTM D1518-11a
fabrics
Table 7. Properties of yarns

Thin Thick Neps

CVm b-f
Yarn Nec CLSP (−50%) (+50%) (+200%) IPI H
(%) (cN/tex)
(km−1) (km−1) (km−1)
Cotton 30.3 2404 13.45 2.5 44.2 90.8 137 4.9 377
Tencel:modal 30.4 3257 12.92 0.0 22.5 26.8 49.3 6.3 430
Tencel:viscose 30.4 2676 13.23 0.8 27.5 29.2 57.5 6.3 379
Tencel:bamboo 30.6 2577 13.34 0.8 27.5 40 68.3 5.2 365

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3.2. Mechanical Properties of Fabrics Pilling is a fabric surface defect due to fiber movement or
slippage of yarns caused by abrasion and wear. Pilling occurs
The graphical representation of tensile and tear strength of the in four steps: fuzz formation, entanglement, growth, and wear
woven fabrics is given in Figure 2. Tencel:modal fabric in warp off. The formation of fuzz and pills influence the fabric surface,
wise and weft wise gives the higher tensile strength (24 kgf) which affects the esthetics and durability of a fabric and its
than other fabrics. It is due to higher strength of Tencel:modal acceptance by consumers. Similarly, abrasion is the rubbing
yarn because tensile strength mainly depends on the strength of a textile surface over another surface, which damages the
of yarn and fibers. Considering the warp-wise direction, the fibers, yarns, and fabrics. The results of propensity to pilling
tensile strength of Tencel:viscose and Tencel:bamboo fabrics of fabrics and their abrasion resistance are given in Table 8.
was 24 and 21 kgf, respectively, however; cotton fabrics has Cotton shows more pilling and lower abrasion resistance;
a strength of 24 kgf, which is similar to that of Tencel:viscose however, Tencel:modal, Tencel:viscose, and Tencel:bamboo
because their yarns have same strength. Similar is the case in have lower pilling and higher abrasion resistance than other
the weft-wise direction as can be seen in Figure 2a. blends. Pilling and abrasion resistance depends on numerous
factors such as fiber type, inherent mechanical properties of
Tear strength depends on the yarn strength and yarn mobility the fibers, fiber dimensions, yarn structure, and construction
in the fabric structure. The yarn mobility further depends on and thickness of the fabrics. Cotton gives more pilling and
the yarn twist and fiber and yarn smoothness. Fabric weave lower abrasion resistance because cotton fibers have lower
being same has no effect in this work. The maximum tear extension at break and work of rupture and lower ability to
strength (Figure 2b) in both warp and weft directions is given withstand repeated distortion and, hence, offer less resistance
by Tencel:modal fabric because of the higher strength of to pilling and abrasion.
Tencel:modal yarns. Cotton yarns were given more twist than
the yarns other than cotton as these have lesser fiber length 3.3. Comfort Properties
(27 mm). So cotton fabric has minimum tear strength in both
warp and weft directions as the yarn is less strong, more rigid, 3.3.1. Air Permeability
and less smooth because of more twist and more irregularities
(number of imperfections, IPI = 137). Tencel:viscose has more For a woven fabric, nature of fiber, yarn twist, yarn linear
tear strength (although yarns have same strength and twist) density, and yarn structure affect the air permeability. As yarn
than Tencel:bamboo because Tencel:viscose yarn (IPI= 28.2) twist is increased, the yarn diameter and the cover factor are
is smoother than Tencel:bamboo yarn (IPI = 41.4) so yarns decreased, resulting in increase in the air permeability. Increase
may have better mobility in Tencel:viscose fabrics. in yarn twist may also make more circular yarn, making the

Figure 2. (a) Tensile strength and (b) tear strength of woven fabrics

Table 8. Mechanical properties of fabrics, pilling scale 1 to 5 (1 = dense surface fuzzing and/or severe pilling and 5 = no change).

Tensile strength (kgf) Tear strength (gf)

Pilling resistance Abrasion resistance
Material
Warp Weft Warp Weft (After 1,000 cycle) (yarns break at cycles)

Cotton 24 20 1,100 1,100 2 12,000

Tencel:modal 31 25 1,440 1,460 3.5 21,500
Tencel:viscose 21 24 1,520 1,240 3 16,750
Tencel:bamboo 24 25 1,160 1,065 3 16,000

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fabric more air permeable. Fabrics having higher-density yarns drawing water through capillary action (wicking) which makes it
are closely packed in a tight woven structure, with reduction a comfortable fiber [20]. Considering Figure 4b, Tencel:viscose
in air permeability [17-18]. Fiber cross section affects on the and Tencel:bamboo give better moisture management than
intra-yarn spaces, which further affects the fabric porosity [19]. cotton, which is due to the Tencel fibers that absorbs and
Tencel:modal fabric (Figure 3a) gives maximum air permeability spreads moisture readily.It has nano-channels (present in
(605 mm/s). Modal and Tencel fibers have such fiber structure core) through which water is transported making it efficient in
containing channels that increase the porosity of fabric. moisture management. Tencel has a unique fibril structure,
Tencel:viscose and Tencel:bamboo have an air permeability tiny components that make up the fiber. Submicroscopic
of 530 and 516 mm/s, respectively, and, hence, are more air channels between the individual fibrils regulate the absorption
permeable than cotton (391 mm/s). Tencel:Viscose is more air and release of moisture. Tencel completely absorbs and then
permeable than Tencel:bamboo, which might be due to more releases the moisture outside, giving the wearer a comfortable
regularity of Tencel:viscose yarn (IPI = 28.2). Cotton fabric is feel [21].
least air permeable as cotton fiber is coarser (1.46 dtex) than
other fibers (1.3 dtex), so cotton fabric has less intra-yarn 3.3.3. Thermal resistance
spaces. Moreover, cotton yarns have more imperfections (IPI
= 137), which may cause more air resistance giving less air Figure 3c presents the thermal resistance of the woven
permeability. fabrics. In this work, as yarn and fabric parameters are same,
the thermal resistance mainly depends on the nature of the
3.3.2. Moisture Management fibers. Tencel:modal provides more heat resistance than
Tencel:bamboo, Tencel:viscose, and cotton. As bamboo and
Moisture management is a one-way transport of moisture and viscose are thermally conductive than cotton [22-23], Tencel
overall moisture management capacity (OMMC) of a fabric [5]. proves to be more thermal resistant. The nanostructure
The results for OMMC are given in Figure 3b. The Tencel:modal, of Tencel fibers is different from the other known cellulose
Tencel:viscose, and Tencel:bamboo fabrics give better moisture fibers. Nanostructure of Tencel consists of the nanofibrils and
management than cotton fabrics. Cotton, bamboo, and viscose nanochannels that manage the moisture of the body produced
fibers are hygroscopic but the moisture regain of cotton fiber in case of perspiration or sweating [24]. This property of Tencel
is 8.5% compared to 11% for bamboo and viscose fibers; thus has made it thermally resistive. Cotton fabrics show the least
they readily absorb water. Hence, bamboo and viscose fibers thermal resistance. It is due to their intrinsic convolutions
absorb more than they spread, resulting relatively in lower present in cotton fiber, which offers thermal resistance by
OMMC as compared to cotton fiber. It is generally known that entrapping air in the convolutions. This air captures the body
cotton has moisture absorption ability. Lumen appears in the heat which is slowly released. But the thermal resistance of
center when fiber matures. Lumen helps in water absorption by cotton is less when compared to Tencel and modal. Although

Figure 3 (a) Air Permeability, (b) Moisture Management, (c) Thermal Resistance of fabrics

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