INSTRUCTION MANUAL

NEW BEDFORD WHALING BARK 1841

Technical Characteristics
SCALE: 3/16" = 1'0" (1:64)
Overall length: 30-3/4 " (781 MM)
Overall height (including baseboard): 27-7/8" (708 MM)
Overall width (main yard): 10-1/8" (257 MM)

MODEL SHIPWAYS KIT NO. 2140

 HISTORY
Charles W. Morgan was built in 1841 at the Hillman Brothers’ Shipyard on the Acushnet
River in New Bedford, Massachusetts. She cost $52,000 and was registered at 351 tons,
106’ 6” x 27’2-1/2” x 13’ 7-1/2”.

Her primary owner was Charles Waln Morgan, a Philadelphia-born Quaker. The first of
Morgan’s 37 successful worldwide expeditions began on September 6, 1841. During her 80
years of service, she caught and processed more whales than any other whaler in history. Her
active days ended in 1921 with the decline of whale oil prices. From 1925 to 1941, she was on
display and struggling to survive at Round Hill, Massachusetts. Morgan was purchased for
Mystic Seaport Museum (Mystic, Connecticut) in 1941, restored, and is berthed there as a
monument to the men who built and sailed her.

Morgan was originally ship rigged. However, shortly after the Civil War, her rig was reduced
to a double topsail bark.

Refer to the bibliography for an in-depth history of the whaling industry and more details on
Charles W. Morgan.

2
 TABLE OF CONTENTS
Brief History 2 16. Open Chocks, Starboard Rail Chock,
Introduction and Credits 4 and Cleats 22
Before You Begin 5 17. Eyebolts 22
Tools Needed to Start Construction 5 18. Rudder and Steering Wheel 23
How to Work With Plans & Parts 6,7 19. Cutting Stage 23
Painting and Staining 7 20. Whaleboat Davits, Bearers
(Lashing Posts), Cranes and Slides 23
Stage 1: Framing the Plank-on-Bulkhead Hull 8 21. Whaleboats 24
1. Bending Wood 8 22. Ship’s Name 25
2. Center Keel Assembly 9 23. Miscellaneous Boxes 25
3. Installing the Keel, Stem and Sternpost 9 24. Stern Eagle, Stars, and Billet head 25
4. Cutting the Rabbet 9 25. Sea Ladder and Portlights 25
5. Installing the Bulkheads 10 26. Channels 25
6. Installing the Transom Framing 11
7. Installing the Bow and Stern Filler Blocks 11 Stage 6: Mast and Spar Construction 26
8. Covering the Mast Slots 11 1. Shaping and Tapering Masts and Spars 26
9. Installing the Waterway, Planksheer 2. Building and Installing the Masts 26
and Bulwark Stanchions 11 3. Building and Installing the Bowsprit
10. Installing the Knightheads and Jibboom 27,28
and Forward Timberheads 11 4. Building the Yards 28
11. Installing the Main Rail and Lashing Rail 11 5. Building the Spanker Gaff and Boom 28
12. Installing the Topgallent Rail 11
Stage 7: General Rigging and
Stage 2: Planking the Hull 12 Sailmaking Information 29
1. Getting Started 12 1. Rigging Options 30
2. Planking Battens and Belts 12 2. Using the Detail and Rigging Plans 31
3. Planking Butts 12 3. Rigging Lines and Block Sizes 31
4. Spiling 13 4. Treating the Lines 31
5. Fastening the Planks 13 5. Belaying Pins and Their Lines 31
6. Planking the Outer Hull 13-15 6. Rigging Tools 31
7. Planking Inboard (Ceiling Planks) 16 7. Blocks and Deadeyes 31
8. Deck Planking 16 8. Sailmaking 31
9. Rigging the Model Without Sails 32
Stage 3: Completing the Basic Hull Structure 17
1. Correcting and Sanding 17 Stage 8: Standing Rigging 33
2. Coppering the Bottom 17 1. Shrouds 33
3. Natural Wood, Double Plank Option 17 2. Backstays 34
3. Fore and Aft Stays 34
Stage 4: Mounting the Hull 18 4. Bowsprit Rigging 35
1. Baseboard with 2 Pedestals 18 5. Spanker Gaff and Boom Topping Lifts 35
2. Launching Ways 18 6. Footropes, Furling Stops, and Fixed Lifts 35
7. Manropes and Bow Netting 35
Stage 5: Adding Hull Details 18 8. Running Lights 35
1. Locating Deck Furniture 18
2. Deck Structures 18 Stage 9: Running Rigging 35
3. Skylight 18 1. Head Sails 36
4. Hatches and Gratings 20 2. Staysails 36
5. Tryworks and Workbench 20 3. Spanker and Gaff Topsail 36
6. Grindstone 20 4. Fore and Main Yards 37
7. Ladders 20 5. Mizzen Crossjack Yard 37
8. Galley Stack 20 6. Fore and Main Upper and Lower Topsail Yards 37
9. Main Fife Rail and Bilge Pumps 21 7. Fore and Main Topgallent Yards 38
10. Chain Pipes 21 8. Royal Yards 38
11. Windlass 21 9. Braces 38
12. Catheads and Anchors 21 10. Miscellaneous Rigging 38
13. Deck Bitts, Fluke Pipe and Belly Chain Chock 22
14. Port Rail and Whaleboat Logger heads 22 Final Touches 39
15. Mooring Chocks and Hawse Pipes 22 Bibliography 39
Scale Conversion Table 39

3
 Instruction Manual

New Bedford Whaling Bark

CHARLES W. MORGAN
1841

Plans and Instructions

By Ben Lankford

Model by Bob Bruetsch

Model Shipways’ Charles W. Morgan kit was developed in 1994-’97. Plans are based
on drawings and other information provided by Mystic Seaport, and from pho-
tographs taken by the author in 1994. The Model Shipways plans and instructions
were reviewed by Mystic Seaport for accuracy.

In 1983, Mystic restored Morgan as a double topsail bark. The museum relied on
photographs and other documentation to depict the whaler as she appeared
between 1892 and 1908. Those wishing to build the model in another configuration
should consult the bibliography and the numerous photographs showing changes
made throughout Morgan’s career.

© 1997
Model Shipways, Inc.,
Sold & Distributed by Model Expo • www.modelexpo-online.com
Hollywood, FL 33020
4
 Before You Begin Tools Needed to Start Construction
Charles W. Morgan is an interesting The following items are recommended for building the model.
ship and makes a splendid model. Those who have modeled before may have their favorites.
Assembling the plank-on-bulkhead 6. Soldering iron or torch
A. Knives
hull develops an understanding of 1. Hobby knife a. solder
how real ships are built, while 2. No. 11 blades b. flux
laser-cut parts assure an accurate 7. Sewing thread for seizing
shape. Although Britannia, brass, B. Files (other rigging in kit)
and wood fittings facilitate con- Set of standard or a. black
b. tan
struction, many require final finish- diamond needle files
8. Beeswax block
ing prior to installation. This is (for treating rigging lines)
especially true for the Britannia C. Clamps
9. Masking tape
castings and is discussed later. 1. A few small C-clamps
10. Wire cutters (for cutting
2. Wooden clothespins
fine wire and strip metal)
3. #16 and #33 rubber bands
Various scratch-building techniques
appear throughout the manual to D. Carving Set H. Sandpaper
encourage less experience modelers Buy gouges and chisels for Fine and medium grit
to acquire these skills. As the model carving center keel rabbets, garnet or #100 to #220
progresses, don’t be afraid to sub- counter block, stern and aluminum oxide
stitute kit fittings with your own bow filler blocks,tapering
the stem, and carving the I. Sailcloth
creations. We encourage you to try Light weave cotton or linen
it. The experience gained will prove whale boats.
cloth for making sails. Model
valuable for future projects. Expo sells a suitable cotton
E. Sharpening Stone
Keeps tools razor sharp cloth
If you are a beginner, take your
time. Morgan, with her davits and F. Boring Tools J. Finishing
whaleboats, has a fair amount of 1. Set of #60 to #80 1. Paintbrushes
detail and small parts. Always com- miniature bits a. Fine point for details
b. 1/4” to 1/2” flat square
plete one stage before going on to 2. 1/16”, 3/32”, and 1/8” bits for hull
the next. When something goes 3. Pin vise
awry, consider doing it over. A sec- K. Supplies
ond attempt usually surpasses the G. Miscellaneous 1. Paints
first, since practice makes perfect. 1. Tack hammer 2. Primer
2. Tweezers (a few) 3. Stains and varnish
3. Small, fine pointed scissors 4. White (polyvinyl acetate
4. Miniature pliers or PVA) or yellow
a. round nose woodworker’s glue
b. flat nose
(aliphatic resin)
5. Small bench vise
5. Cyanoacrylates
(generic name is Super glue)
6. Five-minute epoxy
7. Wood filler

Note: White or woodworker’s glue

in yellow or tan will suffice for
most of the model. Five-minute
epoxy provides extra strength for
affixing fittings. Cyanoacrylates,
such as Jet, Flash, or Zap, produce
quick adhesion. For most applica-
tions, the medium viscosity, gap-
filling variety is best. The watery
type is recommended for filling a
narrow crack or tacking hull plank-
ing to the bulkheads.

5
How to Work With the Plans & Parts
Before starting the model, carefully your model is shaping up; perhaps one thickness will save time. After selecting
examine the kit and study the plans. mast has too much rake (the angle at and cutting what you need, return the
First, determine if all the listed parts are which it sits). Lines should not drape remaining stock to the proper thickness
present. Handling them will quickly give over fittings or conflict with other lines pile. Don’t worry about using a piece for
you a better understanding of the kit’s when belayed (secured). If necessary, one item intended for another. Model
requirements. Try to visualize how every move a belaying point or fairlead. Put Shipways supplies enough extra wood to
piece will look on the completed model. yourself on the ship, imagine perform- complete the model.
Also, determine ahead of time what ing the task, and use logic.
must be done first. The instructions will 5. Britannia Metal Fittings
help, but a thorough knowledge of the 3. Understanding Hull Lines
plans at the outset is essential. Britannia metal is a great improvement
Beginners may not be familiar with the over the white metal castings found in
To avoid losing small fittings and hard- following hull lines. Buttock lines are older kits. Unlike white metal and
ware, sort them into labeled boxes or vertical longitudinal planes that cut pewter, Britannia doesn’t contain lead
compartments. These should have lids through the hull. Waterlines are horizon- (it’s a tin, copper, and antimony alloy)
to keep out dirt. tal planes, diagonals are diagonal planes, and won’t corrode. These fittings will
and sections are transverse vertical require final finishing before mounting
1. The Plans planes. These lines define the hull’s on the model. First, remove mold joint
shape and are used by the draftsman to flash with a No. 11 hobby blade, then
Six plan sheets are provided: fair it (create even curves). file or sand with fine sandpaper.
Second, wash fittings in dishwashing
1. Laser-Cut Wood Patterns A complete set of hull lines is not need- liquid and warm water to remove traces
2. Plank-on-Bulkhead Hull ed for this model, because laser-cut of mold release agent and the body oils
Construction bulkheads and the center keel define the your fingers have deposited. Allow to
3. Hull Plan and Profiles hull’s shape. Sheet 2 shows the bulkhead dry thoroughly before applying primer
4. Hull and Spar Details lines. They are similar to a ship’s body and painting.
5. Rigging and Sails plan or sections, and illustrate how the
6. Rigging Sections and Details hull curves from top to bottom. Consult 6. Soldering and Working
these lines when installing the bulwarks,
Sketches appear throughout the since the bulwark stanchions are built with Brass
manual to illustrate various construc- separately from the lower bulkheads.
tion techniques. Charles W. Morgan sailed during a time
when iron fittings were used. To accu-
4. Using Basswood rately portray this, some soldering is
The Charles W. Morgan kit is manufac-
tured to a scale of 3/16” = 1’ 0” (1:64). necessary. Although paper or brass
Basswood comes in 1/32”, 3/64”, 1/16”,
Each plan sheet is drawn to that scale, strips could be glued together as a sub-
3/32”, 1/8”, 5/32”, 3/16”, 1/4”, and
except areas enlarged to show detail. stitute, soldering will maintain the
1/2” thick sheets and strips. Strip widths
Most dimensions can be lifted directly model’s integrity. Here are a few tips on
are in the same increments, while sheets
off the plans by using draftsman soldering brass strips and wires, or
may be 1”, 2”, 3”, or 4” wide.
dividers or a “tick” strip (piece of paper scratch building with them:
such as an adding machine roll). Lay the Note: Model Shipways occasionally sub-
paper strip over the plan, carefully mark Cut brass sheets and strips with a small
stitutes lime (Tilia vulgaris), a European
the item’s length with a sharp pencil, pair of tin snips or heavy scissors. Thicker
wood, for basswood (Tilia americana) in
then transfer the marks to the wood. brass will require a jeweler’s saw. After
its kits. Both have a fine, uniform texture
cutting, smooth the edges with needle
and straight grain. Lime, however, has
A 3/16” architect’s scale or metric ruler files followed by wet-or-dry fine sandpa-
superior steam-bending qualities. It is
is a handy tool. Measuring and cutting per used dry. Cutting slivers from brass
often called basswood in Europe.
parts using the scale gives a better feel sheet curls and bends it sideways. To
for real sizes. Because these are model- straighten, grip the ends with a pair of
Based on Morgan’s 3/16” = 1’ 0” scale,
building plans, actual measurements small pliers and pull in opposite direc-
1/64” equals 1” on the real ship, 1/32”
have been converted to the nearest tions. Thin brass sheets can be scored
equals 2”, and so on. Generally, bass-
1/64” (0.4mm) or 1” full scale. Sheet 5 with a utility knife and metal straight-
wood strips or sheets can be used as is.
contains a table for converting imperial edge, then snapped off. Use two or three
Occasionally, a strip must be thinner
numbers to metric. light passes, cutting against a maple chop-
than the supplied size. To maintain scale,
ping block, birch board, or glass backing.
sand the strip to the required thickness
2. Making Allowances before making the part. One way is with
Drilling holes in brass with a pin vise is a
Along the Way a sanding block. Another is with a hobby
slow process. The solution is to mount a
sanding thickness planer (sold commer-
handpiece for flex-shaft machines in a
Try to be exact when following the cially). If you don’t own one, chuck a
hobby drill press. Several companies
plans, but use common sense. sanding drum into your drill press, then
manufacturer this tool and it is worth the
Adjustments may be necessary to com- clamp a block alongside the drum to act
cost. When working with brass, use a
pensate for small differences in how as a fence. This makeshift tool works
1/4” or thicker piece of maple or birch
quite well. Sorting the wood in the kit by
6
 Painting and Staining the Model
for backing. (Avoid softwoods, as these Beginning this manual with directions Stains and Finishes
flare the exit hole.) To prevent the bit on applying finishes may seem strange.
from wandering, mark the spot with a Not so! Much time and effort can be Tone wood with Floquil or Minwax
small center punch. Lubricate the bit with saved and more professional results stains. After staining, protect natural
light oil and drill slowly to avoid break- obtained if the finishing process is car- finished wood with a low sheen
age. The brass will become hot, so clamp ried out during construction. Proper polyurethane varnish or Floquil finish-
the pieces to the drill press table or hold timing in applying finishes and using es. An oil-resin mix such as natural
them down with a wooden stick. Do not masking tape to define painted edges Minwax is also acceptable.
touch the brass! If possible, keep the should eliminate unsightly glue marks
speed of the drill under 2000 RPM. Any and splotchy stained surfaces. Take
higher speed causes excessive heat and advantage of these general suggestions:
Brushes and Procedures
small bits will easily break.
Use quality soft sable or synthetic hair
Paint artist brushes. A small pointed brush is
Until recently, modelers used pure silver
good for details. For the hull, use a 1/4”
solder to avoid the corrosive qualities of Use flat finish model paints manufac- to 1/2” flat brush.
lead in soft solder. Today, many solders tured by Floquil, Polly-S, Testors,
are lead free. They’re composed of tin Humbrol, or Model Masters. Jo Sonja Before painting, clean the model with a
and antimony, are strong, and melt at artists’ paints (used by bird carvers) or tack rag. Thin paint to a consistency that
less than 450º F. Some brands are mixed Holbein Acryla Gouache are also accept- eliminates brush strokes, but doesn’t
with 3% or 4% silver, but still melt easily. able. They are a combination acrylic- run. Apply in smooth, even, overlap-
Consequently, no reason exists to use gouache. Sometimes the required color is ping strokes. Light colors will cover the
pure silver solder (melts at 1300º F). available only in gloss. To subdue the primer in four or five coats, and dark
The key to soldering is keeping the shine, spray on a clear, flat finish. Do not colors in maybe two. Check the finish
brass clean. Use a solvent, lightly sand, apply a lacquer finish over acrylics. It between applications, and sand or add
or both. Once the parts are cleaned, will blister the paint. If you intend to air- spackle to eliminate blemishes.
don’t touch them. Your fingers will brush the paint, always use the manufac-
leave greasy spots. Soldering is easy if turer’s recommended thinner. Floquil Use masking tape wherever two colors
your work is set up properly. First, makes railroad, military, and marine col- meet. Electricians’ black plastic tape is
immobilize the parts in a fixture or ors, and each has its own thinner. Note: ideal. It leaves a crisp edge and is not
other holding device, then add just The latest thinners and paints are com- overly sticky. Do not use drafting tape.
enough flux to the joint to do the job. patible with plastics. Floquil’s Dio-Sol Its edge is wrinkled and paint may run
Solder flows where flux is applied. thinner, however, was formulated for underneath. Office and art supply stores
Next, heat the joint with a small torch or lacquers and attacks plastic. sell Scotch Magic Plus Removable
pencil soldering iron. This sequence is
Transparent Tape 811. It, too, is excellent
important. The larger the parts, the
longer it takes to heat the brass and melt Paint Scheme for masking, removes easily, and does-
n’t chip off paint when peeled.
the solder. Remove excess solder with
The plans show Charles W. Morgan’s color However, don’t reuse it, for it doesn’t
needle files. The joint should look like
scheme currently used at Mystic Seaport. adhere well the second time around.
the real thing, not a big glob of fillets.
It consists primarily of black, white, and
light ochre. Airbrushing
To obtain light ochre, mix three parts Floquil Airbrushing with any of Floquil’s or
yellow ochre with seven parts white. Model Masters’ solvent-based paints is
easy, but the fumes are toxic. Spray only
Primer in a ventilated booth or do it outdoors.

Floquil’s gray primer will highlight While Floquil’s Polly S and Model
scratches and other defects. Gray works Masters’ acrylics are not toxic, they are
better than white for this. Prime all metal difficult to airbrush. Always use the rec-
fittings and woodwork to be painted. Do ommended thinner. Thinning with
not prime parts to be stained or var- water causes surface tension problems.
nished. Lightly sand the primed items. Even when the recommended thinner is
Use a hobby spackling compound, such employed, acrylics do not cover well,
as Pic-n-Patch, or DAP, to fill any scratch- are spitty, and clog the airbrush.
es and defects, then re-prime. Experiment on your own. Some model-
ers are successful spraying acrylics, oth-
ers have poor results.

7
 Fig. 1-1 Center Keel Assembly
STAGE 1
Wax paper or plastic wrap
Framing the
Plank-on-Bulkhead Hull Weight

1. Bending Wood
Glue joint let dry 24 hrs.
Building a P-O-B hull requires bending
some wood without distorting its
Building board 3/4" particle
desired position (doing so stresses glue Use straight edge to board recommended
joints and fasteners). Although the term align reference lines
steam-bent” is used to identify the
process, there are three ways to do it.

Steam bending: Hold the piece over a Fig. 1-2 Installing the Keel, Stem & Sternpost
kettle of boiling water and bend. Hold
the wood in position until it cools. It
should remain in that position, but may
Wipe off glue squeeze-out
spring back slightly.

Soaking: Submerge the piece in warm Taper first

Glue
water for several hours. Try adding a lit- Pins or dowels as
tle household or pure ammonia. This needed for alignment Pre-fit joint before gluing
speeds up the soaking process and
makes the fibers slippery so the wood
bends easier. After soaking, hold the
piece in position with a fixture and let it Fig. 1-3 Cutting the Rabbet into each side of Center Keel
dry completely.
Fit a scrap piece of
plank as you carve
Soldering iron: Large soldering irons
with a tubular end are ideal. Clamp the
iron upright in a vise. While the iron Plank
heats, soak the strip of wood in tap
water. Some modelers prefer bending Amidships
Bearding line
around the tube near the handle (it’s not
as hot), while other use the shank. Move
the strip back and forth against the iron.
Its heat turns water into steam and dri- Chisel out
ves it into the wood. The trick is to wait
until you feel the wood wanting to yield
Bearding line
before starting the bend. Begin too soon
or apply too much pressure and the
strip will break. Rabbet
Aft and bow Cut 1/16" deep
The wood dries rapidly, so care must be
taken to avoid scorching. Resoak and
reapply it to the iron until the desired
shape is achieved. Once the piece is
formed, it can go directly on the model. Fig. 1-4 Cutting Bulkhead Bevels
Because the wood’s memory has been
permanently altered, it will never spring
back to its former shape, meaning no Inboard bevel
stress on any timber or fasteners. Spend
some time acquainting yourself with
this method and you’ll never bother Mark bevel
with fixtures again.

Cut bevel
and sand

8
2. Center Keel Assembly
Fig. 1-5 Gluing Bulkheads to Center Keel
The first step in constructing the hull is
to assemble the two laser-cut center keel Pin or tape
pieces. First, use a sharp pencil and
mark the bulkhead locations below the
slots and reference line (used to locate
Bulkheads A through O). Mark both
sides of the center keel piece. Be espe- Temporary
cially critical in locating the reference wood strip
line, for it is a key to proper alignment.
Take measurements from several points
on the plans to double check its position.
Align reference lines
Cover a flat building board or table
with a sheet of wax paper or plastic
Glue
wrap, then place Parts 1 and 2 over it.
Apply white or woodworker’s glue to
the joint. Align the reference line with a
steel or aluminum straightedge. Place a Square
weight on each piece to hold it down
while the glue dries for 24 hours
(Figure 1-1).

3. Installing the Keel, Fig. 1-6 Temporary Battens for Hull Alignment
Check keel with
Stem, and Sternpost straight edge

Add the keel, stem, and sternpost. Taper

the stem as shown on the plans before Check spacings
installing. Use dowels to align and hold
the pieces (Figure 1-2).

Option: Some modelers prefer to cut the

rabbet before adding the keel. The
choice is yours.

4. Cutting the Rabbet

If the keel is in place, the rabbet is the
glue line between it and the center keel.
The bearding line is the intersection of
the center keel and the inside surface of Tack temporary
hull planks. Measure its position from Check alignment visually
in all directions strip both sides
the plans, then mark the bearding line
on both sides of the sternpost, keel, and
stem. With a hobby knife, cut a 1/16”
deep rabbet on both sides of the center
keel and at the bow. This is so the 1/16”
thick hull planking will fit flush. Cut on
or slightly above the glue joint and take Fig. 1-7 Correcting Bulkheads at Bearding Line
your time. For the long slope at the
Flush
stern, switch to a straight chisel. Cut
with the grain to remove the wood
between the bearding line and rabbet.
The rabbet changes to follow the hull’s
shape as it moves forward to the mid-
ships area (Figure 1-3). Lastly, check-fit
the rabbet with a short length of 1/16”
thick plank. Its outer edge should lie
flush with the sides of the keel, stem,
and sternpost.
Add shim

Trim if necessary
Bearding line
Smooth flow into rabbet

9
5. Installing the Bulkheads
Fig. 1-8 Checking Hull Fairness with a Batten
Compare the laser-cut bulkheads with the
pattern plan, determine which is which, Bulkhead
and label them A through O. Test each to
make sure it will slide into the center keel
slots. If the fit is too tight, sand the slots
until the bulkhead slips on. It should be a
snug fit with a little tolerance for glue.

Using a pencil, mark the location of the

reference line on each bulkhead. It must
align with the reference line mark on the Ok. Ok. Ok. Batten
center keel. This assures an accurate hull, Needs trim or shim
because each bulkhead is correctly related depending on fairness Needs trim Needs shim
to the others. with next bulkhead

Next, mark the bevels on the bulkheads.

Use a tick strip to transfer the lines from the
plans, or lay the pattern over the bulkhead
and prick with a pin to locate the bevel. Cut Fig. 1-9 Installing Stern Frames
the bevels with a #11 hobby blade as shown
in Figure 1-4. Deck bevels and the side
bevels amidships are not drawn, because This one
they are hardly measurable. Sand these in slopes
after the bulkheads are installed. inboard

Counter block
Glue the bulkheads in place. Make sure
each bulkhead’s reference line matches the
center keel’s line. Use a small machinist
square to set each bulkhead perpendicular
to the center keel, then tack or tape a tem- Bulkhead "O"
porary strip to the top of the bulkhead to
hold it in place while the glue dries
(Figure 1-5). Use temporary strips for
alignment of frames
Once the bulkheads are installed, tack or tape
a temporary batten to each side of the hull
Cut slots
just below the deck (Figure 1-6). This is a crit-
ical step. Measure the spacing between each
port and starboard bulkhead and retack the
battens until the hull is aligned. Although the
center keel was assembled flat, it could warp
and produce a banana-shaped hull. When it Fig. 1-10 Installing the Bow Filler Block
looks correct, check it again.
Stanchion
Now examine the bottom of each bulkhead.
It should feather out and lie precisely on
the bearding line. If not, trim until it does.
Also check that the top of each bulkhead at
the centerline is flush with the top of the
center keel. Since alignment is based on the
reference marks, slight errors can occur.
Sand or add shims until the bulkheads and
center keel surfaces are flush (Figure 1-7).
Bow filler block Slot for knighthead
Next, sand in the bevels that were not pre-
cut. Check the hull’s fairness by laying a
1/8” square basswood batten against the Bulkhead "A"
bulkhead edges (Figure 1-8). Correct bumps
and dips by sanding or adding shims. This Carve to hull form
is an important check. Hull planks must lie Rabbet
flat against the bulkheads. With Morgan’s
numerous bulkheads, it’s possible for man-
ufacturing or assembly errors to occur.

10
6. Installing the Transom
Framing Fig. 1-11 Using Batten to Align Bulwark Stanchions

Follow the plans when carving the

counter block. Its bottom reflects the Clamp temporary batten
counter curve, while its forward side
matches Bulkhead O. The aft side indi-
cates the slope and curvature of the tran-
som. At the center is a hole for the rud-
der stock. Glue the counter block to the Planksheer
center keel and aft side of Bulkhead O.
Glue after all stanchions aligned

Notch the counter block and add the

transom frame pieces. Later, the transom Waterway
will be planked on both sides. Figure 1-9
illustrates the transom framing.

7. Installing the Bow and Fig.1-12 Installing the Main Rail & Lashing Rail
Stern Filler Blocks
Main rail-stripwood
Laser cut section
Carve the blocks to the shape of the hull,
then mount them forward of Bulkhead A Scarf joint
and aft of Bulkhead O. Their purpose is
to add support where the planks make a
severe curve. Although the planks still Pin and glue rail
(cut off heads)
need steam bending, they are not as like- Remove any glue squeeze-out
ly to break with the blocks in place. In
addition, the bow block provides a solid
Lashing rail inboard Future plank location
base for inserting timberheads and
knightheads (Figure 1-10). Make sure overhang is correct.
must add planks later
8. Covering the Mast Slots
Add the pieces shown on Sheet 2 to both Fig. 1-13 Installing the Topgallent & Log Rail
sides of the three mast slots in the center
keel. Cut them from scrap wood. Glue Use one pin for both rails, or Topgallent rail
securely, because access is impossible install separately using two
pins. Cut off heads Log rail
once the deck is planked. Since the slots
are larger than the actual timbers, masts Remove glue squeeze-out
can be wedged in the hole when stepped.

9. Installing the Waterway,

Planksheer, and
Bulwark Stanchions
Add the waterway along the deck edge.
Note that the waterway varies in thick- 10. Installing the Knightheads 12. Installing the
ness and shape from bow to stern. At the and Forward Timberheads Topgallant Rail
bow, it also goes from a thick piece into a
heavy ceiling. Follow the plans. Make the knightheads and forward tim- The topgallant rail rests upon a log rail
berheads. Install the timberheads in the that sits on top of the main rail. The top-
The planksheer goes on top of the water- planksheer notches and the knightheads gallant rail’s curved sections are laser
way. These laser-cut pieces have square in the forward filler block notches. cut. Make the remaining sections from
holes for the bulwark stanchions. Make stripwood. Use some pins or dowels to
sure the planksheer is properly located. 11. Installing the Main locate and secure the rails (Figure 1-13).
At this point, it extends past the bulk-
heads. After the hull planking is installed,
Rail and Lashing Rail
Note: Knees at the stern connect the
the planksheer will protrude slightly main and topgallant side rails to the
beyond that as well. Heavily curved main rail sections are
rails across the transom. Since these
laser cut. Cut the other sections and
knees will eventually be inside the hur-
Next, add the bulwark stanchions. Get inboard lashing rail from stripwood.
ricane house, they can be omitted.
their correct angle from the hull planking Use pins or dowels to align and hold
layout on Sheet 2. Prior to gluing, clamp a them in place (Figure 1-12).
strip on top of the stanchions for align-
ment. When they are fair, secure the stan-
chions with a touch of cyano (Figure 1-11).

11
 STAGE 2
Planking the Hull
Before starting, it’s a good idea to know
some common shipbuilding terms that
apply to the planking process.

Plank: A single length of wood used to

plank a hull or deck. A strake is a con-
tinuous line of planks from wherever it
begins to where it ends.

Garboard strake: Planking adjacent to

the keel.

Sheer strake: Upper line of planking

on a hull.

Wale: A heavy layer of strakes below the

sheer strake. On Charles W. Morgan, the
wale’s top edge protrudes beyond the 1. Getting Started 3. Planking Butts
hull planking. However, no lower wale
edge exists. The thicker wale planks Mount the hull upside down in a vise or Planking butts are another thing to con-
gradually taper into the lower planking, cradle. Whatever it is secured in should sider before starting. Few trees grow as
so the hull is flush from the top edge of rotate. Planking is tedious and time- tall as ships are long. Consequently, real
the wale down to the keel rabbet. consuming. Think of each plank as a planks were generally 20 or 30 feet long.
project unto itself. Since hull sides are Some builders think a plank as long as
Belts: A group of planks along the hull. identical, simultaneously cut one pair of the model is easier to use. They scribe in
Belts are laid out using battens (tempo- port and starboard planks to the shape. fake butts or omit them. Although this
rary strips of flexible wood). A ribband Fit the plank on one side, then the other. can be done, working with shorter
is also a batten. It holds frames in posi- Don’t rush. Speed results in frustration planks has its advantages. For example,
tion during planking. Ribbands are and a poor job. tapers mark quicker and only one hand
removed as planking is completed. is needed to hold and fasten the plank.
2. Planking Battens and Belts Should a mistake happen, just a small
Spiling: Process for marking and cutting piece is affected. So, the following is
a plank to a given shape. Hulls are easier to plank when divided based on scale-length planks.
into belts. Each is designed to lay the
Edge-bending or springing: To bend a planks against the bulkheads without Because this is a plank-on-bulkhead
plank edgewise. excessive edge bending. They sweep up model, butts must occur on bulkheads
at the ends like the deck sheer. Planks and won’t simulate shipwright prac-
Fair: Refers to smooth, gradual curves within a belt are usually evenly spaced, tice. Use plank length to cover four
when planking. tapered, and fitted. Belts prevent errors bulkhead spaces. However, to avoid
from accumulating. stubby pieces at the bow and stern, a
Nib or nibbing: To avoid a feather edge longer or shorter plank may be neces-
when a plank runs into another at a sharp When selecting a belt width and the sary to complete the run.
angle, the plank is often cut off and insert- number of planks it contains, consider
ed into a cut (nib) in the other plank. how the planks taper and lay against To emulate shipwright practice, stagger
Nibbing generally applies to decks, but the bulkheads. Taper too much and not the butts (Figure 2-2’s pattern is similar to
sometimes hull planks are nibbed. enough stock is left for fastening. Then a real ship). This also applies to deck
a larger plank must be substituted for planking. Covering four bulkhead spaces
Stealer: A plank inserted into another two planks to increase the width. Planks follows the rule; i.e., three full plank
plank or between two adjacent planks too wide won’t lay flat. In some areas, widths between butts on a single frame.
to reduce their width. Or, when two the distance between planks widens One plank covering three bulkhead
planks taper toward a narrow end, it rather than tapers. If it becomes too spaces won’t work, because that leaves
may be necessary to cut off both planks wide, a stealer must be added. While only two full planks between butts.
and substitute a wider plank, thereby these alterations are acceptable and
leaving enough wood for fastening. employed on many ships, the best run
of planking limits their number. (Figure
Counter: Underside of the portion over- 2-1 illustrates some inserts.)
hanging the stern.
Sheet 2 shows the planking layout. Fore
and aft views along with a profile view
provide a complete picture.

12
4. Spiling
Fig. 2-1 Planking Shown Using Stealer Inserts
Edge-bending planks on real ships is
done on a limited basis. Wood is rigid, so
many planks must be cut to shape.
Spiling (Figure 2-3) is simply a matter of
transferring curves to a straight plank,
then sawing them out. The planking lay-
out shows the required stealers. In most
cases, the basswood strips are flexible Stealer
enough to edge-bend in place.

5. Fastening the Planks

Some fancy, commercial plank clamps
are more trouble than they are worth. A. Planks getting too wide
Those that screw into the edge of bulk-
heads leave a big hole to contend with
when installing subsequent planks. It’s Single plank insert
best to hold or pin short planks in
place. Be careful not to split the plank
with the pins. If necessary, drill a pilot
hole first. Smear a light film of white or B. Planks getting too narrow
woodworker’s glue along the edge of
the plank with your finger, then touch
each bulkhead with thin cyano to
quickly affix the plank. Be careful not
to glue your fingers to the model.
Fig. 2-2 Staggering the Planking Butts
While glue alone will secure the
planks, small brass brads or wooden Bulkhead
treenails provide additional holding
power and duplicate shipwright prac-
tice. If using brads, cut off and discard
the heads, then hammer in. Treenails
are commercially available, but making
your own is easy. Buy a package of
long bamboo skewers, strip off short
lengths, and pull through a drawplate Real ship: Must have 3 strakes
to the desired diameter. Drill holes between butts on same frame
(model meets rule with plank
through the plank into the bulkhead, length selected) Real ship must be 5' or more (model meets rule)
dip the treenail in white or yellow
glue, and drive in place. Another alter-
native is to whittle flat toothpicks
(round ones don’t work as well) to a
point. Place the entire toothpick in the Fig. 2-3 Spiling the Planks When Edge
hole, rap sharply with a 10-inch bastard Bending Cannot be Accomplished
file, and break off the remaining por-
tion. A file works better than a hammer,
because its serrated surface catches and 3. Use compass–run steel point along plank in place and
mark parallel line on new plank with pencil end
firmly holds the head of the toothpick,
permitting it to be driven in tightly.
Exterior stubble is dressed and sanded 4. Measure width and Cut out plank
smooth when treenailing is completed. mark, draw curve

6. Planking the Outer Hull

Belt Layout: Now the fun begins! The
hull, bow to stern, is divided into even
spaces from the main rail down to the
top of the wale. Rails and wale line are
preset lines that cannot be modified. 1. Plank already in place
Notice on the plans that planks are nar- 2. Wood: lay along bulkheads
without edge bending
rower forward than they are amidships
and aft. Although this is how they
appear on the real ship, wider planks
could be used forward on the model.

13
Planking will require tapering fore and
aft from the top of the wale down to Fig. 2-4 Transom-Hull Plank Intersection Options
the keel. Consequently, the hull below
Joint mitered, or as option taper
the wale is divided into Belts A only the hull plank when installed
through D.
Future hull plank
Morgan had no lower edge to her Counter plank
wales. They gradually tapered into the
planks, eliminating the step along the
hull found on other ships.
Section looking inboard
On Sheet 2, use a tick strip to mark the
top-of-wale location and belt seams on Counter or transom plank
each bulkhead. Transfer these points
with pencil to the model. Now, tem- Miter joint Option
porarily tack 1/16” x 3/32” basswood
battens along the marks with lil pins.
Battens assure an accurate run of planks
by correcting any errors in drafting, tick Hull plank Plan view at sides
strip marking, or transferring. However,
remember that the wale line is a given
and must follow the plans.
Fig. 2-5 Installing First 2 Strakes in Belt A
When the battens are in place, visually
check their flow. Look at the model
from the side and from the bow and
Fastener at each bulkhead
stern. Do the battens have a pleasing,
smooth curve? Are they symmetrical?
Adjust the lower battens if necessary.
The plans show what they should look
like from the side and ends. When
everything seems fair, make sure the Butts staggered between 1st
Plank BHD D to H
belt seams are clearly visible. Remark and 2nd strake
those that aren’t. Now, either remove Planksheer
Top of wale
L-S
the temporary battens or leave them in
place until they interfere with
installing a plank. S
S

Tapering Plank Edges: As planking pro- K-S H-L G-K G-C H-D D-S C-S
ceeds, the edges of a particular plank
may require tapering to butt flush
against the adjacent plank.
O N M L K J I H G F E D C B A

Properly machined planks have square

edges. Butting them together on a hull
may produce a small gap. Most are
sealed with glue or wood filler, or
caulked on a real ship. Plank edges are Fig. 2-6 Installing the Fashion Piece at Stern
often deliberately sloped to ensure they
butt against each other, while provid-
ing a sufficient gap for caulking. How
the plank runs determines whether its
top or bottom edge is tapered. Sometimes
both are. To create a perfectly smooth
hull without gaps, trim each plank edge
as it is fit. The decision to taper or rely on
filler is yours.

Planking the Counter and Transom: Cover

the counter with 1/16” planks and tran-
som with 1/32” planks. How the counter
planks intersect with the hull planks can
be done several ways. On the real ship,
the joint is mitered (Figure 2-4). Add the Fore and aft view Side view
mouldings to the transom after the This lower section curves forward
planking is completed. and inboard–carve to shape

14
Side Planking Above the Wale: Planking is
3/64” thick from the top of the wale to Fig. 2-7 Installing Deck Hatch Coaming Supports
the planksheer. From planksheer to
main rail, it is 1/32” thick. These planks Coaming
Bulkhead
are fairly uniform in width from bow to
stern and can be easily fitted. Center keel

Laying the Planks in Belt A: Planks

below the wale are 1/16” thick. Belt A
has ten strakes below the wale. The
maximum plank width is at Bulkhead
H (roughly 9” on the real ship or 1/8”
on the model). Planks taper forward to
about 3/32” and widen going aft. Use Wood support
1/8” wide strips for the midships area, under coaming
3/32” forward, and 3/16” aft.

Lift the plank widths from the hull

planking layout with a tick strip. If you
changed the locations of the battens,
divide the space on each bulkhead into Laying the Planking in Belt B and Belt C: Plank Variations within a Belt: Suppose a
ten equal plank widths. Set the slide on These belts have 10 strakes about the belt has nine planks the same width,
your proportional dividers to the num- same width as those in Belt A. If the but the tenth plank must be wider to
ber of planks in Belt A. Span the width temporary batten is still in place, remove complete the belt. Cause for worry?
of Belt A with the long legs. The dis- it. Lay the planks for Belt B and Belt C, Certainly not. No planking job, even on
tance between the points on the short but remember to stagger the butts. real ships, is that precise. After all,
legs is the width of each plank in the these are hand-cut planks and slight
belt. Mark these lines on the bulkheads Laying the Planking in Belt D: This belt variances will occur. The important
with a pencil. contains the garboard strake (next to thing is to keep their flow smooth.
the keel) and has only eight strakes.
The next step is to cut planks to fit Near the stern are two stealers fitted Fashion Piece: When planking is com-
between the marks. Belt A doesn’t per the plans. pleted, add the fashion piece at the
require spiling, so make straight tapered stern (Figure 2-6).
planks. Start at Bulkhead H. Use four Sheet 2 shows a complete planking pro-
planks; one from Bulkhead H to file. Follow it to determine the plank
Bulkhead L, another from Bulkhead L widths in Belt D aft. The hull planking
to the stern, Bulkhead H to Bulkhead layout doesn’t show all the planks aft,
D, and Bulkhead D to the stem. First, so the profile view is necessary.
lay a piece of planking stock over
Bulkheads H through L. In pencil, mark
their overall length on the plank, then
the position of each bulkhead. Next,
using a set of dividers or tick strip, lift
the plank widths from the marks on the
bulkheads and transfer to the stock.
Draw a line through the points and cut
the plank. Trace this tapered plank to
obtain another for the other side of the
hull. Repeat for the remaining planks
in Belt A.

Install these planks on the hull. Follow

the same procedure for the next strake,
but stagger the butts. Install a plank
from Bulkhead G to Bulkhead C,
Bulkhead C to the stem, Bulkhead G
to Bulkhead K, and Bulkhead K to the
stern. The hull now has four planks
comprising each strake from bow to
stern (Figure 2-5).

Move down to the next planking

strake. Stagger the butts starting at
Bulkhead F. Continue until this strake
is finished, then complete the others in
Belt A. Most planks have a severe bend
at the stern and must be steam bent.

15
7. Planking Inboard Deck Planks: Main deck planks are Anchor Deck: Before planking the
(Ceiling Planks) 1/16” thick. Anchor deck planks are anchor deck, paint the areas under-
1/32” thick. Planking runs parallel to neath it, then add the bowsprit bitts
The inboard transom is covered with the centerline. and edge beams. After planking the
1/32” ceiling planks, as is the forward anchor deck, mount the forward
area under the anchor deck above the Prepare the strips by painting one edge breasthook.
waterway. black or dark brown to simulate deck
caulking. Or, attach the planks with Caution: Read the segment on Standing
brown woodworker’s glue. It’s dark Rigging - Fore and Aft Stays -Mainstay.
8. Deck Planking enough to pass for caulking. Decide whether to temporarily omit
some anchor deck planking and the
Hatch and Companionway Coamings: Thick Pads: Laser-cut thick pads go breasthook to facilitate rigging the
Before planking the deck, decide how under the windlass knees and around mainstay. Also, the exact location for
to treat the hatch and companionway the mainmast. Fit these before plank- the mainstay holes in the anchor deck
coamings. We recommend shipwright ing, then plank around them. may not be known at this point.
practice. Glue all coamings on top of
the appropriate bulkheads, then plank Procedure: Start deck planking at the
around them to save work and materi- centerline and work outboard. Scrape
als. Be sure to glue and pin scrap wood off any glue that squeezes out before
underneath the coaming’s three free adding the next plank. Butts can be
sides prior to installation. This takes included or omitted. On the real ship,
the place of deck beams and provides a they don’t show up as readily as the
permanent landing for the planks seams. Butts can also be scribed in after
(Figure 2-7). The alternative approach the plank is laid. Since deck planking
is to glue completed hatches and com- doesn’t curve like hull planking, using
panionways on top of the deck, but strips the length of the deck is okay. If
that affects their scale height. desired, fasten planks with brads or
treenails. See hull plank discussion.

16
 Fig. 3-1 Installing Copper Sheathing
STAGE 3
Cap plates fitted over keel,
Keel stem, sternpost and rudder

Completing the Basic

Hull Structure
1. Correcting and Sanding
Sternpost
Once all the planks are installed, exam-
ine the hull. Rub wood glue in cracks or
add filler. When seams are filled, smooth
hull and deck planks with sandpaper.

2. Coppering the Bottom

Fig. 3-2 Gore Ends of Copper Belts
During the 1983 restoration, Morgan’s
copper line was lowered to permit
work on her topside planking. Model Gore ends-cut plates to just lap
under the upper belt
Shipways’ plans show the original, Upper belt
higher line and as it appears now.

It’s time to decide whether to paint or

copper the underwater hull. While it
may seem a difficult task, coppering is
fairly easy. It just takes patience.
Lower belt
The kit includes plain or adhesive-
backed copper strips. Secure plain strips
with contact cement. Either apply a long
strip and scribe in overlapping butts, or
cut the strips into plates and overlap
them following shipwright practice. The Coloring: Copper plates will tarnish
latter looks best. 3. Natural Wood,
naturally or can be chemically treated Double Plank Option
with Patina-It. This turns them a blue-
The first step is to lay out the seams in green. A solution of sal-ammoniac
pencil. No plan exists showing Morgan’s Most wooden ships had one layer of
(available from a drugstore) and vine- external planking. However, many
exact layout, so design your own or fol- gar will do the same, or simply use a
low the author’s. It’s based on photos of builders are familiar with double-
wash coat of paint over the copper. planked European kits or want a natural
Morgan and other whalers. There are different schools of thought wood finish typical of Navy Board mod-
regarding plate coloring. Copper weath- els. Even though Morgan should be
With the model upside down, start lay- ers only when exposed to air, such as
ing the copper plates at the keel and painted, its hull can be double planked.
when a ship is in drydock for an extend- Purchase 80 strips of 0.5mm x 5mm x 20”
stern. Forward plates overlap aft ed period. Some say the patina wears
plates, and upper plates overlap lower mahogany, walnut, or some other hard-
away once the ship is back in water. The wood from Model Expo for the task.
ones (Figure 3-1). To keep seams choice is yours, but weathered copper
straight, line up the plates precisely on does give the model a salty look.
the layout lines. If they are wavy, the Double planking will cover the existing
effect is awful. Add the basic side plat- basswood, but leave the rails exposed.
ing first, then the plates capping the Solve this by substituting your wood of
stem, sternpost, keel, and rudder. choice when adding the rails, capping
them with the new strips, or staining
Gore Ends: On the plans are belts with them a similar color.
gore ends; i.e., where plates go under
others (Figure 3-2). If the plates are left Follow the basswood planking process.
square on the ends, their outline may You may want to work with longer
show through the upper belt plates. strips, since the basswood already
defines the plank shapes. Simply lift
Nailing: Some modelers like to simulate dimensions from the hull and cut the
the nails in plating by indenting the wood. When completed, sand and finish
copper with a sharp point. This is easi- the hull with Floquil oil or glaze, or tung
ly overdone, especially when too big a oil. Finally, add a coat of wax and polish.
nail is used. If it doesn’t look scalelike,
forget it.

17
 STAGE 4
Mounting the Hull
Before proceeding farther, mount the hull
to prevent damaging fittings when han-
dling the model. Proper mounting is
important, because future alignments will
require a true waterline. This kit contains
two brass pedestals and a baseboard for
displaying the model. A second option,
called the launching ways, can be made by
hand or purchased. Feel free to devise
your own approach. To avoid damaging
the base, mount the model to a flat, true
work board until finished. The method of
mounting remains the same.

Models should be cased to protect them

from dirt and damage. Furthermore, most
competitions require entries to be cased. A
case is a cheap insurance policy. However,
the kit’s baseboard may be too small to serve
as the base for the case. A case’s outside
diameter should be 4” longer than the model Morgan had a tryworks shelter, but it
(2” fore and aft), 4” wider (2” port and star- wasn’t included during the 1983
board) and 2” higher. If the baseboard does- STAGE 5 restoration.
n’t measure 34-3/4” long by 14-1/8” wide,
make a new one to accept a case. Notice the tool racks hanging under the
Adding Hull Details amidships shelter. For added detail,
1. Baseboard with 2 Pedestals place harpoons or other gear in the racks.

Round the top edges of the baseboard or

1. Locating Deck Furniture Most planked structures have pro-
cut a simple chamfer. Those with access to nounced seams. Sand their edges a little
If hatch and companionway coamings
a router can cut mouldings along the to emphasize those joints when glued.
were not installed when planking the
edges. Paint or stain the baseboard. Check the plans for other fittings that
deck, it’s time to locate them along with
Alternatives: Prefinished baseboards are may be easier to install before the furni-
the hurricane house, deckhouse, veg-
available or make your own from cherry, ture is added. Think about painting
etable bin, skylight, amidships shelter
walnut, bubinga, or rosewood. before mounting. Don’t back yourself
(boat bearer), crew’s head, bilge pumps,
into a corner.
bitts, catheads, windlass, chocks, cleats,
Mount the model so the copper line is par- eyebolts and ringbolts, chain pipes,
allel to the baseboard. Drill pilot holes in Option: Those who prefer not to plank
hawse pipes, stern eagle, tryworks,
the keel and baseboard for the pedestal the structures can substitute the sheet
workbench, scrap hopper, cooling tank,
screws. If something goes awry and the basswood. Leave it plain or scribe plank
boat davits, and fife rail.
balance is off, add a brass shim under one seams with a sharp pointed instrument.
pedestal to correct it. Commercially scribed planking sheets
To locate items, measure from a known
are also available. Although the scores
benchmark such as the centerline or center
2. Launching Ways are a little wide for Morgan’s scale, they
of a mast. Mark positions lightly in pencil.
are visually effective.
While eyebolts, cleats, and other fittings
Launching or building ways, available as associated with rigging can wait, installing
a kit from Model Expo, is another method them while working on the deck is a good 3. Skylight
of mounting. It is most suitable for models idea. Once they’re mounted, varnish the
without sails. Drill the keel to accept the deck. Then, when rigging commences, the The aft skylight is an interesting, but
rods anchoring the model to the ways. fittings are ready and waiting. tedious structure to construct (Figure
Launching ways are easily adapted to 5-2 ). For the panes, use sheet plastic
mounting on the baseboard and permit or microscope slide covers with the
2. Deck Structures back painted light blue. Panes can be
the builder to create a mini-diorama based
on a shipyard activity. Follow directions in left clear, but paint the area under the
The crew’s head, aft hurricane house, skylight black if not detailed. Cut mul-
the launching ways kit to achieve the amidships shelter, deckhouse, and berth
proper waterline level. lions and stringers from brass rod or
duplicate planked structures. Tick off wire; or, fake it and paint on the divid-
dimensions from the plans (Figure 5-1 ing bars. Eliminate some if too tedious.
Note: Stain or paint the baseboard or gives some ideas). The amidships shelter
launching ways before mounting the hull. Even with less than the correct num-
comes with laser-cut knees. After 1906, ber, the visual effect will be good.

18
Fig. 5-1 Building Deck Structures
1/32" thick vertical or horizontal planking
Option-use solid or scribed sheet

3/32"-1/8" sq. corner Overhead planking

or mid-house post

Plank backing strip

Moldings
Beam and post
Dowel for space about 1" on
Coaming alignment centers

A. Typical construction B. Corners and tops

Sliding top
Glue together
Slide

Cut out if top to Top

be left open

1/16" Sq.
Scribed line
Option
1/64"-1/32" thick
Plank

C. Panel doors D. Companionway

Fig. 5-2 Skylight Construction

Hinged top 3 sections
9 rods

Drill holes for rod in wood

strip, or slot bottom of strip
with saw

Glue

Clear or
paint light
blue

Plastic sheet or
glass inside frame
Wood panel painted light
5 brass rods blue with light yellow ochre
painted bars

Coaming

FWD.
Option for rods

19
4. Hatches and Gratings
Fig. 5-3 Assembly of Grating Strips
If the coamings are installed, make the
hatch covers or gratings. Precedence
exists for displaying the model with
hatches covered. Gratings on the hatch,
and companion doors are to provide
ventilation at Mystic Seaport. They are
not historical, so use only solid covers
and doors to represent the original ship.
Making gratings is no longer a lot of B. Edge to edge (preferred)
work. The laser-cut material can be
assembled two ways (Figure 5-3). Edge- A. Egg crate fashion
to-edge gluing produces a thinner, more
realistic grating. It seats in the hatch bet-
ter and the ledges need not be so deep.

5. Tryworks and Workbench Fig. 5-4 Building the Tryworks

The tryworks is interesting, but tricky to Chimney casting Sheath with copper
or paint copper color
make (Figure 5-4 ). Chimneys, pots, side Front panel
knees, and sliding fire doors are Britannia (painted bricks)
Painted
fittings. Make the tryworks structure from bricks
wood strips or sheets. Paint the brick Fire door
casting
areas to look like bricks. It may be possi-
ble to find printed brick paper sheets in
hobby catalogs. Hang the sliding fire Eyebolt
doors by drilling a hole in each hinge tab,
Rod
then inserting a brass rod. Don’t forget to
add the ring to the side knees.
Side panel
Make the workbench and chicken coop
from stripwood (Figure 5-5). The plans Back
show where to glue the Britannia panel Add ring
bench vise. Top
Knee
Hinged duck pen lid casting
6. Grindstone
Although a cover hides the round stone, Fill (floor of tryworks-
paint black or ash
add a brass wire to represent its crank color)
handle. (Scratch build the grindstone if
the stone is to be visible.) Because the
grindstone is portable, position it any- Curve to fit
where on the deck near the workbench. deck camber
The plan location need not be followed.
Painted brick hearth area
7. Ladders Basic water tank frame
Brass or paper strip corner straps

Each side of the anchor deck has a ladder

(actually steps); another leads to the hur-
ricane house, and the other is on the rail.
Fabricate them from 1/64” thick wood. Fig. 5-5 Workbench
Delicate ladders enhance a model, so do Top-leave gap between boards
not make them too thick. Use the fixture
shown in Figure 5-6 to align the parts Bench vise goes here
while gluing.

8. Galley Stack Fake drawer

The galley stack has a pad at its base. Slats-front and back
Notice that the Britannia fitting is based
on Mystic’s plans. However, a recent Door
Bottom of chicken coop
photo reveals a taller stack. If desired,
duplicate it from brass tubing.
Trim

20
9. Main Fife Rail and
Bilge Pumps Fig. 5-6 Building Ladders
Stile holder
Make the bitts and fife rail from wood.
Stanchions are Britannia. Britannia bilge Tread holder
Snug fit
pumps secure to the rail, so drill holes (angle slots)
in the deck to accept them. Peg the fife
rail bitts to the deck with a dowel, or Length stop
cut a square hole in the deck per Figure
5-7. In any case, make the attachment a
secure one, for belayed lines will put Stile
stress on the rail.

The foremast and mizzenmast have a

Tread
spider band, but no fife rail. This will be
discussed later.
Ladder jig
Relocate for
10. Chain Pipes various widths

Right next to the main fife rail are two

chain pipes. Drill a hole in the deck for
each one. To display the pipes with
some chain going down them, bore a Fig. 5-7 Main Fife Rail
hole in the Britannia fittings.

11. Windlass
Pump casting
Windlass barrel, purchase quadrants,
pawl, and brake crosshead are Britan-
nia. Make the pawl bitt from strip-
wood. Carrick bitts, knees, and the
deck insert pad are laser-cut wood
pieces. Fashion brake handles and the
quadrants’ connecting links from brass Stanchion Casting
(Figure 5-8).

The symmetrical windlass barrel is Bitt

based on Mystic’s drawings. However, Thumb
in 1990 the windlass was modified to cleat
Dowel
reflect Morgan in her 1885-1905 config-
uration, and this is presented as an
option. In 1886, a ring gear was added
to the starboard end of the windlass
and covered with a wooden box. A
steam donkey engine and bailer were
installed below deck to operate the
windlass. If following this modifica-
tion, add the wooden box. Fig. 5-8 Windlass
Wood block Support rod
12. Catheads and Anchors Brass

Make the catheads from wood. Anchors

are Britannia. If desired, substitute a
wood stock for the Britannia one; other-
Solder Crosshead casting
wise, paint it to resemble wood. Stow
Wood
the anchors per Figure 5-9. Each cathead
has a thumb cleat. These are for
stowage and the anchor release chain.
Pump handle Connecting rod
brass wire

Connecting link
brass wire
Note: Handle iron is
rectangular, but
brass rod can be
used on model
Quadrant casting on windlass

21
13. Deck Bitts, Fluke Pipe,
and Belly Chain Chock
A whaler has three important bitts and
corresponding chocks on its starboard
side. Forward is the fluke chain bitt to
which a chain is attached. It feeds
through the fluke pipe in the hull. The
chain is tied to the whale’s tail when
cutting-in. At midships is the belly
chain bitt. A chain feeds through the
belly chain fairlead chock at the rail. Aft
is the head bitt. Its chain feeds through
one of the oblong chocks along the rail.

Make the bitts from wood and a brass

pin (Figure 5-10 ). Chocks and fluke
pipe are Britannia. Drill and file the
correct diameter hole in the deck for
the fluke pipe, then glue it in place.
Unless the model will be displayed
with a whale alongside, omit the chain.
Or, tie the chain to the bitts and pile
some on deck beside them.

14. Port Rail and Whaleboat

Loggerheads
Loggerheads are Britannia. Drill and
glue them to the port rail and in each
whaleboat as shown on the plans.

15. Mooring Chocks and

Hawse Pipes Fig. 5-9 Anchor Stowage
The forward round mooring chock,
oblong chocks along the rail, and
anchor hawse pipes are Britannia.
Mount them per the plans. Make cavils
from stripwood and install along the
inside of the bulwarks.

16. Open Chocks, Starboard Anchor deck

Anchor
Rail Chock, and Cleats lashing Toggle thru chain
rings
Along the rails are small cleats and Inboard
open chocks in addition to a larger
open chock on the starboard rail. These
are Britannia. Install according to the
Chain Chain
plans. Glue and peg if a rigging line
will put strain on them.

17. Eyebolts
Eyebolt locations are shown on the hull
and rigging plans. The kit has a suffi-
cient number of them. Drill a hole to
accept each one. Using a toothpick or
Microbrush, spread a thin film of Outboard
cyano on the bolt, then insert. Don’t
overdo the glue. Tug on the eyebolt to
check that it will not come out.

22
Eyebolts are simply wire bent into a
loop. To close the loop, touch with a lit- Fig. 5-10 Deck Bitts Chamfer
tle solder or epoxy. Figure 5-11 shows
an easy way to produce scale eyebolts.
Brass pin
18. Rudder and Steering Wheel Fluke chain,
belly, and head
bitts all similar
Although the rudder is laser-cut, it
must be shaped according to the plans. Dowel
Create pintles and gudgeons from paper
or brass sheet (Figure 5-12). After
installing the rudder, make the tiller
from wood and strap it to the rudder
stock. The steering wheel, posts, and line
drum are Britannia. Fit these to the tiller.
Rig the wheel per the plans. Fig. 5-11 Easy Eyebolts
19. Cutting Stage
Drill bit to suit Touch of super glue
Make the cutting stage and its post from eye diameter
wood, then rig as shown on the plans. desired
Twist wire-size to
The stage can be presented in its low- suit scale
ered or stowed position (Figure 5-13 ).
Don’t forget to leave gaps between the
planks. This platform had to drain fast Drill hole
to prevent the mates from slipping while
cutting blubber from the whale.

20. Whaleboat Davits,

Bearers (Lashing Posts), Fig. 5-12 Installing the Rudder
Tiller
Cranes, and Slides Brass
or paper
Brass or paper strip
Davits are laser cut. Make the lashing strap
posts, cranes, and slides from strip-
wood. They look like metal in photos, Pin (solder, epoxy, or omit)
but are actually oak. Longhorn cleats
and snatch blocks are britannia. Note:
Cleats are higher on the aft port and
starboard davits to clear the hurricane
Glue or solder Pin or Glue pintle and
house. Make the davit stays from brass cut off ends gudgeon
wire fitted into eyebolts (Figure 5-14).

No two davit pairs have the same spac- Rudder should already have
ing, so double check the plans when copper sheathing
locating them. Since every whaleboat is
identical, their lifting eyes may not line
up with every davit set. This is no prob-
lem, because the tackle is either slightly
in or out. To achieve vertical, parallel
tackle, adjust the lifting eyes on each Fig. 5-13 Cutting in Stage End tabs on each lift will assist with
boat to correspond with its davit set. alignment. The wide tab is the stern
21. Whaleboats Blocks on shrouds and the narrow one the bow. Each

Morgan has a pair of straight davits at the lift from tab end to tab end is the same
Five whaleboats hang from davits and
stern. Mystic Seaport installed them based length. When assembling the lifts,
two are stowed upside down on the
on photographic records, but has no idea keep the tabs in line. Use only a thin
amidships shelter. Inboard detail can
what their function was. They may be for coat of white or woodworker’s glue.
be omitted for the stowed boats.
another whaleboat or workboat. Too thick a layer will
affect the hull’s over- Post
These whaleboat models are
Position stowed all height. You can also use cyano.
unique. Instead of the usual
Britannia casting or solid hull, Model
Hollow the boat with chisels
Wood rail
Shipways has laser-cut lifts for
and sandpaper. Carve or
bread-and-butter construction Wire
sand the inside
(Figure 5-15). When hollowing these Solder corners to the Secure inside rail
hulls, the challenge is to carve them as
intersection of two lifts. When all is
thin as possible without breaking
smooth, the shape should be correct.
through the wood.
Next, cut off the tabs and carve or sand

23
the exterior hull to its correct profile. Be
careful; the hull is becoming thin. Make Fig. 5-14 Whaleboat Davit Stowage
templates from the body lines to fine
tune the hull’s shape. Add the keel and
rudder and the basic hull is done. Stay brass
Davit
Carving a small boat hull is difficult. Eyebolt
One way to check its thickness is shown Varies for each davit
in Figure 5-16. This is a homemade dou- Lash
ble-ended caliper. Commercial metal Thimble
ones are too big for model work. Bearer
Lashing line
Carving Option: Temporarily omitting
the bottom lift might make hollowing
the hull easier. Carve the inside close to
what is required, then glue on the bot-
Channels
tom lift and complete the carving. Or,
carve the hull to the inside of the ceiling Coil
planks, add those planks, then install
frames above the ceiling as shown on
the plans. This is a good approach, Slide
because the hull is thin and fragile. wood
Lashing line Pintle
How much detailing to include is an Eyebolt Eyebolt
individual choice. Soles, frames, Copper rub Bearer gudgeon
thwart knees, moulding, and other strake Stay
items shown on the plan add to the brass Eyebolt
model, but might be a little difficult to Pad under boat keel
make. Don’t be afraid to try. Just keep
the scale in mind. Boat slide Crane under boat

Fig. 5-15 Building the Whaleboats

Whaleboat Gear: The kit provides a Bri-

tannia loggerhead plus small and large
line buckets. Fabricate the oars, har-
poons, and small buckets from wood
and brass wire. These are fun to make
and really add to the look of the
model. Everything is on the plans. Oar locks
Centerboard case
3
Colors: Whaleboat colors are based on
those at Mystic Seaport. Rails
2
Thwarts and knees
22. Ship’s Name Laser cut lifts
Molding
1
Frames
The stern and forward hull sides carry Cuddy board
the ship’s name. The best way to add 1. Align tabs on all lifts as Ceiling and and bow box
this detail is to buy dry transfer letters floor
you glue up lifts
(available at art and office supply stores
or model railroad shops). After applying, 5. Complete the details
give the letters a coat of flat varnish. Stern Bow (follow plans)

23. Miscellaneous Boxes

Make the cooling tank, scrap hopper by 4. Add keel
the tryworks, and vegetable bin aft after carving
from stripwood (Figure 5-17). Because
the real cooling tank is copper, brass 2. Cut off tabs to correct hull 3. Carve/sand interior/exterior
sheet can be used if desired. profile after lift glue is dry to hull lines

24. Stern Eagle, Stars,

and Billethead
24
The stern eagle and billethead are Bri- Fig. 5-16 Homemade Double-Ended Caliper
tannia. Paint on the stars at the stern.
Gap is hull thickness
Pin or bolt at center
25. Sea Ladder and Portlights
"A" "B"
Morgan has sea ladders (wooden steps)
on either side of the hull. Round port-
lights and the rectangular one can be
simulated by drilling a shallow hole in
the hull, then painting it black.
1/16" plywood
26. Channels Model hull
Gap "A" must equal gap "B" if ends do
not touch, sand one end until both
Either fashion the channels from strip- ends touch (zero gap)
wood and install them now, or wait
until it’s time to make the chainplates.
Consult Stage 9 for chainplates and
channel details.
Fig. 5-17 Miscellaneous Boxes
At this point, the model has a consider-
able amount of fittings on board. Take
another look, correct mistakes, and Wood or brass
touch up paint blemishes. Go over the
plans again. Has anything been
missed? When all is satisfactory, get Open top scrap hopper
ready for the masts and spars. Tie down
ring Corner post

Slats
Bottom
of tank Edge molding
Riveted cover slat ends
corners

Copper cooling tank (open top) Vegetable bin

Mast and Spar Construction

1. Shaping and Tapering
Masts and Spars
Masts and spars are drawn to scale on
the plans. Dowels for provided, but
require final tapering. A dowel, because
it is round, is difficult to taper. The best
approach is to taper the dowel from its
maximum diameter to square at the
ends, then eight-sided. Sand to achieve
final rounding. This prevents a dowel
from becoming an oval (Figure 6-1).

Although a little tricky, dowels can be

tapered by chucking them into an elec-
tric drill or lathe. As the dowel turns,
taper with sandpaper.

Experienced modelers file masts and

spars from square stock, because mark-
ing tapers is easier. Applewood is
excellent here, because its dense, twist-
ed grain is strong and resilient.

2. Building and Installing

the Masts

25
 Fig. 6-1 Shaping & Tapering the Masts and Spars
STAGE 6
Straight line - No!
After squaring mast heads to their
proper width, cut the tenon or tongue
at the top (Figure 6-2).
Bottom of mast, max. dia. of
On most ships, the heel of the topmasts Desired curve. Mathematically a
gaff / boom, or Cl. of yard
and topgallant masts has a rectangular parabola, but very close to arc
or square section. Although the of a circle. Simply taper spar
gradually toward the end.
restored Morgan’s heels are round like
the rest of the mast, they do have a fid round
slot. Drill this hole, then shape it with a
file. The fid, a rectangular or square
pin, prevents the mast from falling
through the top (Figure 6-3).

After completing the basic masts, drill

holes for the required sheaves (pulleys).
1st cut to square 2nd cut to octagon 3rd sand round
A sheave is used for yard halliard tyes.
Once a line runs through a hole, it’s
impossible to tell if a sheave is present,
so don’t install real ones. Fig. 6-2 Squaring the Mast
Mast Bands: Use brass or paper strips for
the mast bands. Figure 6-4 shows some
3. Cut tenon
options. Fit the bands on the spars as
soon as they are tapered. Do not install
eyebolts or other fittings that could pre-
vent attaching the mast bands, or tubs 1. Slot with razor saw
for the upper topsail yards.

2. Slice square
Mast Caps, Tops, Trestletrees, Crosstrees, and
Spreaders: Although mast caps are laser-
cut, some filing may be necessary if the
holes don’t fit the masts. Glue eyebolts in
the mast caps per the plans.

The basic platform for the fore and main

tops and the curved supports are laser-
cut. Make the other straight parts from
stripwood (Figure 6-5). Tops are simple Fig. 6-3 Fid in Topmast Heel
and fun to do.

Fashion trestletrees, crosstrees, and top-

mast spreaders from stripwood. Curved
crosstrees are laser cut. Figure F-6 illus-
trates the mizzen crosstree assembly.

Eyebolts, Jackstay, Boom and Gaff Fittings,

and Spider Bands: The mizzenmast and
yards have wooden jackstays for securing
the spanker. Jackstays are laser-cut and
about the right size for the mizzenmast Fid
and lower yards, but a little large for the
topgallant and royal yards. Slightly sand
the strips or make new jackstays from
1/32” square stock (Figure 6-7). Pin and
Rectangular hole in mast
glue them to the spars.

Cyano a large eyebolt to the spanker

boom and gaff. The masts have smaller
eyebolts for rigging. Check the plans for
their locations, drill a hole, and cyano the
26
eyebolt in place. Pin hole for securing Pin to hold
Fig. 6-4 Making Mast Iron Bands band to spar parts while
Britannia spider bands may need their To form wrap around Solder - this can soldering
holes filed before they will slip on the drill rod or dowel represent the bolted
masts. It may also be necessary to ream same diameter as flange
their belaying pin holes. Option: Add spar it fits
Brass strips
the belaying pins before installing the Option glue paper
spider bands. strip on spar

Install band, then drill holes in Eyebolt Solder

Note: The mainmast spider band is high spar for eyebolts - glue Wire link Cut off and shape with
above the deck, probably so it won’t file - drill hole first
Pin and solder
interfere with the fife rail. This is unusu-
al, but that’s how it is on the real ship. Band for yard slings
Sailors belayed lines by climbing on the and halliard tyes Optional method
fife rail.

Fairleads, and Stay Leads: The fore and

mainmasts have wooden fairleads for Fig. 6-5 Building the Tops
running lines, in addition to cleats and a
chock for the main and mizzenstays.
Add these per the rigging plans. Drill fairlead and shroud holes

Mast Assembly: With parts made and pre- Laser cut parts
fitted, assemble tops, caps, crosstrees, and
trestletrees on the lower masts, topmasts,
and topgallant masts. Before gluing, check
to make sure the lower mast, topmast, Cross frame
and topgallant mast align. Check the pro- Crosstree
file and fore and aft views. Adjust the Taper lower edge
upper mast heel holes if necessary.
Trestle trees
Option: Some modelers like to build mast
assemblies as they rig; install lower
masts, do the shrouds and lower stays,
then add the topmasts, etc. Just keep
checking the alignment at each level.
Cheek knee
Mast Wedges and Mast Installation: A
laser-cut ring represents the mast coat
(Figure 6-8). Shape these parts by filing
the edge. Slip a mast coat over the mast
before stepping it. Add slivers of wood
as necessary to jam the mast in the hole. Fig. 6-6 Mizzen Crosstree Assembly
Check the alignment forward, aft, and Hole for shroud
athwartships, so it matches the plans. Crosstree
Finally, slide the mast coat down and
glue to the deck. Fairlead block

The foremast coat is shaped differently

from the main and mizzen coats. This Metal cover plate
was observed from photographs. Trestle tree

3. Building and Installing rigging. Assemble the cap and jibboom 4. Building the Yards
the Bowsprit and Jibboom on the bowsprit. Be careful and align it
correctly before gluing. Mortise the aft The yards are made now, but installed
Make the bowsprit from square strip- end of the jibboom into the block at the as rigging progresses. Footropes are
wood. It has an unusual shape with a bow as shown on the plans. included at this point, because they are
flat top. Taper the wood, then cut the easier to do with yards in hand. They
tenon for the cap (Figure 6-9). Although Insert the bowsprit through the opening in and spar details are shown on the plans
the bowsprit cap is laser-cut, enlarge the bow, seat it between the bitts. Check (Figure 6-10). Paint the yards as they are
and angle its holes and taper the top the side angle and make sure it lines up finished. Then they will be ready to
and bottom edges. The jibboom is a sim- with the centerline. mount when rigging starts.
ple tapered spar. Drill holes to represent
sheaves for the stays. Dolphin Striker: Hook the dolphin striker 5. Building the Spanker
into the proper eyebolt on the bowsprit
cap. It can hang loose until rigging begins. Gaff and Boom
Add the bees and various eyebolts for
Complete these spars in hand as much

27
as possible. They will be installed later.
Fig. 6-7 Making a Wooden Jackstay
Note: The maximum diameter of the
gaff and boom is not at the center, but Pin to spar
about one-third out from the forward
end. This is not clearly seen on the
Wood strip
plans. Gaff and boom are tapered just
like a yard, only the taper begins at a
different place.
Cut between file indents

The spanker boom and gaff have a hook

gooseneck (Figure 6-11).
Use round hand file or rotary power drill

Fig. 6-8 Mast Coats

Laser cut ring

Fore mast shape Main and mizzen mast shape

Fig. 6-9 Making the Bowsprit Tenon for cap

Flat on Top
Square

Bee
Groove for
Forestay
Round
General Rigging and
Sailmaking Information
Newcomers to the nautical world
should learn the following rigging Fig. 6-10 Yard Details Truss / sheet
terms. Old salts can skip this part and Sling or halliard tye band
block band
grab a mug of grog. Cleats on miz
crossjack yard
Jackstay
1. Each edge and corner of a sail has a
name. On a square sail, the top is the Truss
head, the bottom the foot, and the sides (varies) Yoke on top-
casting gallent and
the leech. Lower corners are the clews. royal yards
On a fore-and-aft sail, the top is the (wood)
head, bottom the foot, aft side the leech, Stirrup and footropes
and forward side the luff. The lower for-
ward corner is the tack, aft lower corner Hole represents sheave for sheets
Iron band
the clew, upper forward corner the
throat, and the aft upper corner the peak.
A triangular sail is similar, except the
upper corner is called the head. It has Fig. 6-11 Boom & Gaff Gooseneck
no throat or peak.
Brass band
2. Standing rigging: Fixed lines support-
ing masts and spars. Standing rigging is
Wire hook
generally tarred; hence, it is black or
dark brown.

3. Shrouds: Transverse lines supporting Eyeball in mast

masts. Deadeyes are wood and have
three holes for reeving the lanyard.

28
 STAGE 7
Lanyards are lines used to tighten
shrouds, stays, or other lines. On mod-
ern ships, metal turnbuckles have
replaced deadeyes. A heart or bullseye is
similar to a deadeye, except it has one
large hole. They are used for more per-
manent installations.

4. Chainplates: Iron bars or rods holding

the deadeyes. Topmast shrouds have no
chainplates. Instead, rods or lines run
from the deadeye or bullseye to the
mast band. These are called futtock
shrouds. If they go just to the lower
shrouds, they generally tie to a wooden
or metal rod called a futtock stave.
However, this is not the case on Morgan.

5. Footropes: Lines seamen stand on when

working and furling sails. Stirrups hold
the footropes.

6. Stays and backstays: Lines supporting Fig. 7-1 Seizing the Lines
the masts from fore and aft forces. A
running backstay has a movable tackle on
deck. Morgan has no running backstays.

7. Bobstays: Support the bowsprit from

upward loads. Guys support the jib-
boom and bowsprit from side forces.
Bowsprit guys are sometimes called Constricter knot Clove hitch 1. Begin the 2. Wrap 3. Tuck and glue
(will not loosen) knot
bowsprit shrouds. Bowsprits occasionally Regular procedure
have a vertical strut below the jibboom
cap to increase the stays’ downward
pulling force back to the hull. This strut Starter knots
is the martingale or dolphin striker, and
– Glue – Eye splice
Morgan has one. Head stays run
through the jibboom, down to the dol- 1. or 1. 2. Wrap
phin striker, and back to the bow.
Martingale stays are separate, and start
at the jibboom rather than continuing
from the head stays. Fig. 7-2 Homemade Rigging Tools Flatten end of a rod,
then file to shape
8. Running rigging: Lines that move,
reeve through blocks, or operate sails
and spars. Brass rod

9. Blocks: Wooden or metal shells with

Push
sheaves (pulleys) for handling lines. A Make several
purchase (tackle) consists of several Wooden handle lengths
Pull
blocks and a line to provide a mechanical
advantage for handling sails and spars.

10. Halliards or halyards: Lines for raising

and lowering a sail, yard, boom, gaff, or
flag. The part of a halliard attached to a
yard is called a tye. For gaffs, the outer File out head of a steele or
halliard is the peak halliard. At the gaff plastic crochet needle
jaws is a throat halliard, named for the
part of the sail it operates. Downhauls,
outhauls, and inhauls drag a sail along a
boom or up and down a stay.

Sheets: hold the lower corners of a sail or

29
boom. When not in use, sails are furled
(bundled on the yard, boom, or mast). Fig. 7-3 Stropping Model Blocks
Clew lines pull up the corners of a
square sail, leechlines pull up the sides, Wire strop
and buntlines pull up the belly for furling
the sail. Brails are like buntlines, except
they pull loose-footed fore-and-aft sails Twist
toward the mast for furling. Bowlines,
attached to the sides of a square sail, pull
With hook
it forward. These are used primarily on
18th century and older ships.
Glue then cut off Slip knot then glue
11. Reef bands: Horizontal reinforcing
bands on the sail. They have short Line strop
lengths of rope called reef points. In
heavy weather, sailors tie the reef points
to a yard or boom to shorten the sail. Seize

12. Parrels or parrals: Lines or devices for

holding yards, booms, and gaffs to their
respective masts and spars. A truss, jeer,
and sling are similar to a parrel. These
are lines or iron fittings holding a yard
Fig. 7-4 Sailmaking Weave in same direction as seams
up and against the mast. They are most
common on the stationary lower yards.

13. Braces: Lines attached to the ends of

yards for directing their angles and hold-
Pencil lines
ing them taut. Lifts are standing or run- then sew
ning lines for holding yards when low- Sail cloth
seams
ered. A topping lift is a line holding up the
end of a boom when the gaff is down or
absent. Vangs, port and starboard lines,
prevent a gaff from swinging sideways.
Mark with pencil

1. Rigging Options
"A" "B" "C"
Like the real ship, the model can be (Final shape)
(cut) (Fold)
rigged four ways. The plans cover the
details. It’s your choice, but consider "A"
these comments. "B"
"C"
Full set of sails including fore-and-aft and Iron before sewing Sew
square sails: Not many modelers go to Tuck corner and
sew by hand
this extreme. It’s a good approach, if Hem (tabling)
the objective is to own one model like
that. However, the mass of sails
obscures most spar and deck details.
Sails look better on a ship at sea. choose this approach, and beginners Because more line diameters are shown
should definitely opt for it. on the plans then provided in the kit,
Sails furled, yards lowered on their lifts: use the following guide:
Here is a pleasing compromise. Reality
is maintained without sacrificing detail.

Sails furled and hoisted: This creates the 2. Using the Detail and
illusion of a ship in port with some
sails still drying after a day’s run. Mix Rigging Plans
furled sails with full open ones, or sails
with yards partially down. Use bunt- Sheets 5 and 6 show the masts and
lines and clewlines to partially pull up spars with attendant rigging. They are
square sails. Possibilities abound, so drawn so every line is clear and its
look for a pleasing effect. Study paint- belaying point known. Study them and
ings for ideas. Marine artist John have a complete picture of each rig
before starting. Do this and rigging will Use every diameter available to enhance
Stobart’s work is an ideal reference. the model’s scalelike appearance.
proceed smoothly.
Additional diameter lines are commer-
No sails, yards lowered on their lifts: Now cially available. Some modelers substi-
the ship is in port with her sails 3. Rigging Line and Block Sizes
tute the kit’s nylon cordage with linen
removed for repairs. Most modelers

30
or cotton lines. Stropping 3/16” scale blocks is diffi-
cult. Some alternatives are shown in
4. Treating the Lines Figure 7-3.

Worming, Parceling, and Serving: Lines on

Stretching the Sails: This step assures the
ships were wormed, parceled, and 8. Sailmaking sail’s proper shape, since sewing may
served wherever chafing might occur.
have altered it. Using the original pat-
Shrouds are a prime example. Worming Choosing the proper material is critical. tern, trace the sail’s outline onto a piece
inserts thin pieces of line (worms) Sailcloth must be lightweight, yet fairly of paper. Place the paper on a solid, but
between the strands. Parceling winds opaque. Tightly woven cotton is porous backing, such as a wood or cork
canvas strips saturated with tar around acceptable and available from Model board. Now wash the sail again and lay
the wormed part. Happily, that isn’t Expo. Although linen is ideal, most is it over the outline. Stretch the wet mate-
necessary for the model. Only consider too heavy for 3/16” scale models. rial to the sail’s outline, then secure
serving (binding the wormed and
with stick pins through its outer edges.
parceled area in the opposite direction Wash sailcloth several times to When dry, the sail will have resumed its
with spun yarn). Use fine silk or linen preshrink it. When dry, iron the cloth, proper shape. Iron it one more time.
thread. Avoid cotton. It’s too fuzzy. but be careful not to scorch it. Next,
Range of lines Kit supplied line lightly draw the seams and hem Boltropes and Reef Points: Boltropes can
Although
shown on serving
plan addsdiameter
authenticity and
to use (tabling) lines in pencil, then sew the be omitted, since they are nearly invisi-
elevates the model’s quality, many mod- seams using light tan cotton thread. A ble at 3/16” scale. However, to include
elers
Lesselect
thanto not to do it. They
.016" simply
.009" sewing machine makes fast work of them, follow the tedious method in
give
.016"the line a heavy coating.017"
- .020" of the project. Practice on scrap cloth and Figure 7-5.
beeswax.
.024" - .032"Don’t be afraid to .030"
try serving. set the stitch so it doesn’t pucker the
All it takes is
Greater than .032"practice. Serve only the
.048" material. (Figure 7-4). For the restored period, Morgan had no
heaviest shrouds and stays.
reef bands and reef points on any sail.
When done, iron the sails. Be careful not
Seizings: Seize lines with cotton, nylon, to burn them. Next, cut the sail’s shape Furled Sails: Don’t furl sails made from
or silk thread. Do not secure lines with using Line A in Figure 7-4. Fold over the sailcloth and cut to the original’s scale
knots. Knots are for shoelaces. Touch hem, iron it flat, and sew as close to size. The material is usually too heavy,
seizings with diluted white glue (Figure Line B as possible. Tuck the ends and resulting in a bulky furled sail. To solve
7-1). hand stitch the corners. The sail is now this problem, either proportionally
ready for stretching. reduce the size of a sail by one-third
when using sailcloth (Figure 7-6), or
buy a lighter material such as Silkspan
(model airplane covering tissue).
Beeswax: Beeswax protects lines against
Depending on their size, even Silkspan
moisture and lays down fuzz. To soften
beeswax, hold it to a light bulb. Run
the line across the beeswax, then
through your fingers to soften and Fig.7-5 Boltropes
smooth it out. Do this several times to
thoroughly coat the line. Boltrope

5. Belaying Pins and Their Lines

Sheet 6 includes a complete belaying
pin plan. Each belaying point and its
Form a
appropriate line have the same num-
cringle
ber. Some lines run through fairleads Sew by hand through
before they belay. Sketches on the plans the boltrope, not
Boltrope around it
show which lines have fairleads.

6. Rigging Tools
Fig. 7-6 Shapes for Furled Sails
Some homemade tools are essential for
Cut to this size to
the rigging process (Figure 7-2). Similar reduce bulk for furling
shapes are commercially available.

7. Blocks and Deadeyes

The kit may or may not include
bullseyes. If not, take a deadeye and
ream its center. Wooden bullseyes and
Full sail
hearts are sometimes not available in the
required sizes.

31
sails may require being reduced by one-
third. Test first to see how much materi-
al is required for a neat, tight furl.

Even furled sails need some seams and

hems, as these details are visible.

9. Rigging the Model

Without Sails
Even though sails are omitted, include
most of the lines attached to them; i.e.,
clewlines and sheets, buntlines and
leechlines, and fore-and-aft sail hal-
liards and downhauls. These lines
remain when sails are removed. They
are shackled together, tied off, or
secured to some other stowage point.
The sketches here and on the plans
show some details.

When rigging a model without sails,

most builders do not install bunt and
leechlines or their blocks. Furthermore,
most of the fore-and-aft sail sheets are
omitted. The choice is yours. However,
more lines mean more fun and, in the
end, more realism. Try to visualize
which lines to remove with the sail and
which ones are easily left in place after
being unhooked or untied from the sail.

Standing Rigging
Before starting, sort lines by size, coat with
beeswax, and keep them handy. Use cot-
ton, silk, or nylon sewing thread for seiz-
ings. Treat this with beeswax. Keep white
glue at the ready for dabbing on a seizing
if necessary. Usually sewing through the shrouds. Morgan’s lower deadeyes have brass wire (Figure 8-1).
shrouds followed by a half hitch will pre- steel rod chainplates. Make these from
vent a seizing from unraveling.
Fig. 8-1 Chain Plates
Caution: Before rigging the mizzen top-
mast, install the gaff topsail mast hoops. Simplified model option

1. Shrouds
Solder or Twist
Note: These directions assume the shrouds Brass wire
epoxy wire
will be installed first, then fore and aft
stays. However, as an option one could
install lower shrouds, then lower stays,
followed by upper shrouds and upper
Twist
stays. Just remember that at each mast-
head the stays go on top of the shrouds.

Begin the standing rigging with the lower

32
 Fig. 8-2 Deadeye Spacing & Seizing Details
STAGE 8
Tie
The rigging plan shows the proper
sequence for installing the shrouds. To set
up the shrouds, make a temporary brass 1. Pull tight
wire fixture to space the deadeyes as seiz-
ing progresses (Figure 8-2). The fixture Start
knot
should be longer than the final spacing of here
deadeyes. Reeving the lanyards will
tighten the shrouds to their final proper Lanyard
(looking outboard)
spacing. Make a test shroud first to see
2. Seize
how much it stretches. Figure 8-2 also
shows the sequence for reeving lanyards.
When looking outboard at any deadeye,
always start with a knot in the upper left-
hand deadeye hole. Consequently, port Old time Morgan
option now
deadeyes have the knot aft and starboard
deadeyes have it forward. Keep an eye
on the masts. Rigging the shrouds can
pull them out of alignment. Twisted
wire jig
Note: In her later years, Morgan carried
iron wire shrouds on the main and
mizzenmasts and hemp ones on the Longer than final
spacing. Let lan-
foremast. By the time she came to yards stretch
Mystic Seaport, all her rigging was iron shroud to obtain
wire. Consequently, Morgan’s shrouds spacing
are spliced around the deadeyes, then
served. Because this is not a convention-
al method for older ships with hemp
shrouds, use a triple seizing. It’s easiest.

Fig. 8-3 Futtock Shrouds

Instead of chainplates, the topmasts
have deadeyes and futtock shrouds
(Figure 8-3). Make the futtock shrouds
from brass wire.Note: Topgallant shrouds
have bullseyes, but the royal mast has no
iron futtock shrouds, deadeyes, or
bullseyes. Its shrouds pass through the
crosstrees and set up with a lanyard at the
futtock band. Twist

After the shrouds are in place, add the Brass wire

ratlines (Figure 8-4). Lower shrouds have
wood battens instead of ratlines. Stain
the battens, then seize them to the
shrouds. Make the sheer pole from brass
wire, then paint. Twist

Before installing the upper ratlines, give

them a generous coating of beeswax. This
will help hold them in a slight downward
curve. If the ratlines tend to bow upward,
tug them gently into position. Touching
the loops with white glue will help freeze
them. Ratlines are difficult to do if tied Pin to eyes in
with clove hitches. Use half hitches and mast band
avoid pulling the ratlines too tight, there-
by altering the spacing between shrouds.
The step or space between ratlines should
be a scale 14 to 15 inches.

2. Backstays

33
Topmast, topgallant, and royal back- Fig. 8-4 Ratlines
stays are similar to shrouds, except no
ratlines connect them. Install them after
the shrouds are up. Note: The royal
backstays use bullseyes rather then
deadeyes and set to an eyebolt instead Thread with
of a chainplate. Model options needle-glue
and cut off

Cleats on the topmast spreaders pull the

fore and main topgallant and royal All clove
hitches-glue
backstays outward. Careful! Don’t
and cut off
apply too much tension or the spreaders
could break. Real ship

Eye splice Clove

3. Fore and Aft Stays and seizing hitch on
at last inner
Rope ratlines shroud shrouds Model option
Install the fore and aft stays once the glue only
shrouds and backstays are up (Figure 8-5). Wood battens on
Lash
Be careful! Don’t pull the masts out of line lower shrouds
when installing the stays. Begin with the for-
ward lower stays and work aft and upward.

The mainstay is double and goes on each

side of the foremast, through the holes in
the anchor deck, and seizes to the Fig. 8-5 Shroud & Stay Details
bullseyes in the bow planksheer. Those
who read the caution and didn’t install all Single shroud or Shrouds in pairs
the anchor deck planking will have no backstay each side
problem with this step. Others will find it
more difficult.
Seizing at upper mast
The mizzen and forestay are set up by a
lanyard at the head.
Lanyard

Most forestays go through the bowsprit Stay over top of

and jibboom, down to the dolphin strik- shrouds
er, and back to the hull. These runs are
shown in the sketch along with other Mizzen & Forestay
bowsprit rigging. Rigging the bowsprit
is probably easier prior to completing
the forestays.

4. Bowsprit Rigging
Figure 8-6 shows the standing rigging Fig. 8-6 Bowsprit Rigging
at the bowsprit. When rigging, keep the Jibboom
dolphin striker in position. Adjust the Fore topmast shrouds Fore topgallent stay
martingale stays and backstays to stay P/S (inner)
accomplish this. Fore royal stay

The plans show 60-link-per-inch chain for Forestay

Jib stay
the martingale stays. The smallest chain
manufactured is 32 to 40 links per inch,
and 40-link chain is becoming scarce.
Jibboom shrouds
Simply use the smallest chain provided.
While not to scale, it still looks satisfactory. Footropes Jibboom
P/S shrouds
P
(outer)
5. Spanker Gaff and S
P
Boom Topping Lifts Chain martingale stays
S

Although these lines are standing rig- Chain

bowsprit Martingale
ging, they are installed after mounting shrouds Chain bob- backstays
the gaff and boom and are discussed P/S stays
under running rigging. The gaff topping
lift is like the martingale stays. Use the
34
smallest chain provided.

6. Footropes, Furling Stops

and Fixed Lifts
As noted earlier footropes, and even the
ends of fixed lifts, are easier to install
with the spars in hand. Like the ratlines,
footropes may require some work
before they hang naturally.

Add the footropes on the jibboom.

Furling stops (tan lines) should be
added before seating the jibboom.

7. Manropes and Bow Netting

When the standing rigging is completed,
add the netting over the bowsprit. The
rigging plan shows the net. Use fine
thread and tie knots, or just glue the
threads to form a net. Or, look for netting
in a craft or florist shop.

8. Running Lights
Add the Britannia running lights on the
mizzen shrouds. Make the box from
stripwood. File the casting flush on one
side to fit against the box. This is actual-
ly a bow light and, consequently, not
the correct shape.

Examine the model before moving to

the next stage. Is a mast or the bowsprit
and jibboom out of alignment? Now is
the time to correct these mistakes.

1. Head Sails
For simplicity, the forestay sail, fore top-
STAGE 9
mast staysail, jib, and flying jib can be Halliard runs are identical to a ship with
called head sails. Add the halliard, sails, except for the head block’s loca-
Running Rigging downhauls, and sheets to the sails tion. Sheets are removed with the sails.
before installing on the model. Leave
Decide whether or not to rig with sails. enough extra line for belaying after
The following discusses both choices reeving through the various blocks.
2. Staysails
and how to rig them. Each sail, along
with its spars, is presented separately so Staysails between the fore and main-
Morgan has metal hanks for bending masts and main and mizzenmasts are
one group can be finished before mov- the head sails to the stays. A detail is
ing to the next. Although the sequence treated like head sails. If rigging with
on the plans. For the model, use a sim- sails, notice on the plans that the
isn’t critical, we recommended starting ple brass ring.
at the bow with the fore-and-aft sails, mizzen topmast staysail sheets pass
then adding the square sails. through a fairlead block, or thimble, on
If sails are not installed, attach the hal- their way down to the deck. Lower
liard to the downhaul and run it to the staysail sheets go directly to their
end of the bowsprit (Figure 9-1).

35
belaying points.
Fig. 9-1 Jib Rigging Without Sail
Note: Some belaying points for the
lower staysail sheets were not identi-
fied on Mystic’s drawings.
Consequently, Model Shipways’ plans
Halliard
reflect an educated guess.

3. Spanker and Gaff Topsail

Downhaul
Set up the gaff and boom topping lifts,
then hook the gaff and boom to the
mast eyebolts. Rig the spanker first. If a
sail is installed, rig the brails. If no sails
are used, knot the brails at their blocks
on the mizzenmast, or omit them.

If showing a furled spanker, furl it

against the mast and partway on the Fig. 9-2 Spanker & Gaff Topsail Rig with Sails Removed
gaff with brails pulled tight.

Boom sheets will pull everything tight.

If they pull the boom too low, adjust the
length of the gaff topping lift chain or
boom topping lift.

The gaff topsail is furled against the Halliard

mast doublings almost in a bundle. Use
a small piece of cloth for the furled sail. Gaff topsail and downhaul
On a real ship, the bundled sail is not removed. Hook halliard and
outhaul at cap could also
that bulky. With no sail, the mast hoops include tack line going to
simply stack on the mast. Figure 9-2 belay point
illustrates some rigging possibilities
with sails removed.
Outhaul
4. Fore and Main Yards Topping lift

Secure the yard truss and add the chain Wood hoops
sling. Add the yard lifts next. The plans stacked
illustrate the lower yards with a course
in place. If no sails are used, here are
some options. Knot leechlines and bunt-
lines at the thimble fairleads, or omit-
ted. With the sheet, pull the clew garnet
block at the tack up to the block on the Topping lift
Spanker head outhaul and
mast, then remove the tack. Or, hook downhaul hooked together
the sheet and tack to the clew garnet,
then hoist the yard (Figure 9-3). In this
case, sheet and tack drape along the Brails stopped
hull over the shrouds. off at block or
omitted

Although the braces can be added now,

waiting until last is better, since they may
get in the way when rigging other yards.
Outhaul and inhaul hooked together,
or omit inhaul and secure outhaul on
5. Mizzen Crossjack Yard top of boom

The mizzen crossjack yard has no sail. It

simply provides a place for the main
yard braces. Set the yard with its parrel,
sling, and lift. The lift is a fixed one,
secured at the masthead by a lanyard
(Figure 9-4). Steady the yard by adding
the port and starboard guys. Sheets

6. Fore and Main Upper and

Lower Topsail Yards
36
The lower topsail yard is fixed. Secure it Fig 9-3 Lower Course Rig Without Sail
to the truss, then add the chain sling.
Set the upper topsail to the tub parrel.
The plans show these yards rigged with Bunt and leech lines knotted off at thimbles, or omit
furled sails and with no sails.

The lower topsail yard does not have a Lift

lift. The upper topsail yard lift is fixed to
eyebolts at the cap. Note: The upper top-
sail has no clewlines or buntlines, but
Option - remove sheet and tack
does have a downhaul at the yardarms.
Its sail is furled by lowering the yard.
Clew garnet
Tack
The upper topsail sheets are an unusual
rig (Sheet 6). Port and starboard sheets
are interconnected, and only one line
belays on deck (Figure 9-5). Sheet

The upper topsail yard has a tye and

halliard. Rig the tye through the mast
sheave, then add the remaining lines.
The tye and halliard are mostly chain. Fig 9-4 Mizzen Crossjack Yard Rig
Use the smallest chain provided, or
obtain it from some other source.

Lanyard

Thimble
Sling
Lift

7. Fore and Main

Topgallant Yards
These yards are fitted with parrels and Guy
have fixed lifts, a buntline combined with
a leechline. For model without sails, tie
these at the fairlead thimbles on the yard,
or omit. Hook sheets and clewlines
together similar to the lower yards. The
plans show the position of the yards when Fig 9-5 Upper Topsail Sheets
lowered for furling and without sails.

Halliard tackle blocks set up on the fore

and main tops instead of at the deck. This
helps keep the deck free of clutter.

8. Royal Yards
Lash to truss

The fore and mainmasts have royal yards,

but the fore royal yard is sent down while
the ship is on the whaling grounds. This
is how Morgan is displayed. The main
Upper topsail
royal yard is rigged similar to the topgal-
sheet
lant. It has no bunt or leechlines, but it
does have running lifts. Blocks are seized
to the mast.

Like the topgallant, the royal halliards set

topside. The royal tackle belays to an eye- To belay
bolt in the topmast trestletrees. Lower topsail
yard
9. Braces

37
Braces can be installed taut, or allowed Fig 9-6 Brace Runs
to droop a bit. If not taut, beeswax them
thoroughly and shape with your fingers
until they hang in a realistic curve. Some
brace runs are shown in Figure 9-6. Main upper topsail brace
Main lower
Thimbles topsail yard
10. Miscellaneous Rigging and lanyard

Flags and Flag Halliards: Pendant

Mizzen
Flag halliards are located at the fore, crossjack
main, and mizzenmasts, and at the end
of the spanker gaff. Halliards are a sin-
gle line reeved through a small block
or thimble. An eyebolt will suffice for Main yard
this model.
Pendant
Fashion flags from lightweight cotton
cloth and paint with acrylics. Acrylic
paint is flexible. If flags are cut from
paper, shape the paper before installing
so the flags hang naturally. Fig 9-7 Cutting Tackle
Fish Tackle:

A fish tackle is used to hoist the anchor.

For stowage, it hooks to the cathead pin.
The hook at the end is britannia.

Identical to other one

except for lower block
hook (small hook)

Cutting Tackle: To foretop

Shackle

Whaleboats and cutting or cutting-in tack- Thimble

le give whalers their uniqueness. Drill
sheave holes in the large, laser-cut blocks,
and make brass strops for the lower
blocks. Large and small blubber hooks are
Britannia. Shape some large shackles for
the chain at the top (Figure 9-7).

Whaleboat Rigging, Cutting-Stage

Tackle, and Steering Gear Tackle:
To windlass
Rigging for these items was discussed
in Stage 5.

FINAL TOUCHES
When all the rigging is up, recheck every
seizing. If necessary, add another touch
of white glue. Check for shiny places on
the rig. If necessary, touch up standing
rigging with Floquil’s Dark Stockholm
Tar stain or black liquid shoe polish. For
running rigging, use Floquil’s Weathered
Manila stain or brown liquid shoe polish. Blubber hook
Check if any painted wooden parts have Trip line
fouled during the rigging process and
make repairs.
Shackle
Congratulations
38
 ing from out-of-print source. Most of the
Charles W. Morgan is finished! Take a data was taken from the Charles W. Morgan.
moment to revel in your accomplish-
ment. You have done what others only 6. The Story of Yankee Whaling, American
wish they could do. You’ve persevered Heritage. 1959.
when the going became rough and your
Good account and pictures of the whaling
effort has produced results. You’ve industry. Availability unknown.
developed skills you never knew you
had, increased your vocabulary, and
become a time traveler. We hope you’ve
enjoyed your voyage on this remarkable
whaler and look forward to sailing with
you on your next shipmodeling project. 7. Sperm Whaling from New Bedford, by
Elton W. Hall. 1982, New Bedford Whaling
Museum Publication

Superb photos, taken by Clifford W.

Ashley, of the Bark Sunbeam in 1904. Great
action photos.

8. To Build a Whaleboat, by Erik

A.R.Ronnberg, Jr., Model Shipways

This is a Model Shipways publication which

accompanies the Model Shipways whale-
boat kit. Wonderful for a close-up view of
the small whaleboats carried by the whalers.

9. The Ashley Book of Knots, by Clifford

W. Ashley.

By far, the best book on knots ever written.

This book is a modeler's dream because it
details the rope work done on old sailing
ships. Every type of knot, basic and fancy, is
Bibliography shown, along with hundreds of rigging pro-
cedures. An excellent drawing of a whale-
1. The Charles W. Morgan, by John F. ship cutting-in tackle is included.
Leavitt. 1973, Mystic Seaport Publication.
10. The Whaleboat; A Study of Design,
A complete history on the Morgan. Every Construction, and Use from 1850 to 1970,
voyage is logged, and the crews identified. by Willits D. Ansel, 1978, Mystic Seaport
Publication.
2. Whale Ships and Whaling - A Pictorial
History, by George Francis Dow. 1925 Everything you ever wanted to know about
(Dover Reprint). a whaleboat.

Very good account of whaling and SCALE CONVERSION TABLE

whaleships. Many excellent photos of
R I G G I N G
Charles W. Morgan.
Diameters for Lifesize Vessel Diameters in Tenths of an Inch Diameters Converted to 3/16" Scale
3. The Yankee Whaler, by Clifford W. Inches in 10ths ÷ 64=
Ashley. 1926 (Dover Reprint) 5/16" .3125" .005" (.12mm)
3/8" .375" .006" (.15mm)
History of whaling and many photos of 1/2" .5" .008" (.20mm)
Clifford W. Ashleys oil paintings, many of 5/8" .625" .009" (.25mm)
which are now in the New Bedford 3/4" .75" .012" (.30mm)
Whaling Museum. 7/8" .875" .014" (.35mm)
1" 1" .016" (.40mm)
4. Whale Ships and Whaling, by Albert 1-1/4" 1.25" .020" (.50mm)
Cook Church. 1938. (Reprinted)
B L O C K S
Excellent photo record of all kinds of whale- Lengths for Lifesize Vessel Lengths Converted to 3/16” Scale
ships, Morgan included. Great for detail. Inches in 10ths ÷ 64=
5. Birth of a Whaleship, by Reginald B. 4" .06" (1.52mm or 1/16")
Hegarty. 1964 (Out-of-print) 5" .08" (2.03mm or 5/64")
6" .09" (2.28mm or 3/32")
This book describes the construction and 7" .10"(2.54mm or 7/64")
rigging of a whaleship in detail by a man 8" .13" (3.18mm or 1/8")
who was there. Wonderful text, worth find- 10" .16" (4.06mm or 5/32")
12” .19” (4.83mm or 3/16”)

39
0
MODELER'S LOG
Date Time Notes

MODEL SHIPWAYS, INC.

Sold & distributed by Mode Expo • www.modelexpo-online.com
Hollywood, FL 33020
 3/14/2013

CHARLES W. MORGAN
PARTS LIST MS2140

PART # ITEM QUANTITY DESCRIPTION/NOTES

BRITANNIA CASTINGS 9 pk

WP5701 Windlass Barrel 1

WP5702 Windlass Quadrants 2
WP5703 Windlass Brake Crosshead 1
WP5704 Windlass Double Pawl 1
WP5705 Billet Head 1
WP5706 Stern Eagle 1
WP5707 Anchor Shanks 2
WP5708 Anchor Stocks 2
WP5709 Bilge Pumps 2
WP5710 Bench Vise 1
WP5711 Grindstone (covered) 1
WP5712 Tryworks Knees 4
WP5713 Tryworks Chimneys 2
WP5714 Tryworks Fire Doors 2
WP5715 Port Midships Loggerheads &
Whaleboat Loggerheads 6
WP5716 Hawse & Fluke Chain Pipes 3
WP5717 Forward Round Mooring Chock 2
WP5718 Oblong Mooring Chocks 6
WP5719 Belly Chain Fairlead Chock 1
WP5720 Starboard Midships Rail Chock 1
WP5721 Standard Open Chocks 8
WP5722 Standard Cleats 8
WP5723 Longhorn Cleats for Davits 10
WP5724 Snatch Blocks for Davits 10
WP5725 Large Cutting-In Tackle Hook 1
WP5726 Small Cutting-In Tackle Hook
& Fish Tackle Hook 2
WP5727 Steering Wheel 1
WP5728 Steering Wheel Aft Post
& Drum 1
WP5729 Steering Wheel Forward Post 1
WP5730 Galley Stack 1
WP5731 Chain Pipes (covered) 2

1
WP5732 Mainmast Fife Rail Stanchions 3

WP5733 Fore & Main Lower Yard Truss 2

WP5734 Fore & Main Topsail Iron
Sheet Blocks 2
WP5735 Fore & Main Upper Topsail
Fixed Truss & Bands 2
WP5736 Fore & Main Lower Topsail
Parrel Tub & Truss 2
WP5737 Fore & Main Spider Bands 2
WP5738 Mizzen Spider Band 1
WP5739 Large Whaleboat Line Tubs 5
WP5740 Small Whaleboat Line Tubs 5
WP5741 Tryworks Pots Male (half) 2
WP5742 Tryworks Pots Female (half) 2
WP5743 Running Lights 2

BRASS AND MISCELLANEOUS FITTINGS AND MATERIAL

WP0411 Belaying Pins 150

WP0429 Small Eyebolts 200
WP0428 Large Eyebolts 30
WP0955 1/8" Split Rings 40
WP0888 1/64" x 1/16" Strip 4 ft
WP40285SEC 0.010" Dia. Wire 10 ft
WP40244SEC 0.020" Dia. Wire 20 ft
WP0516 42 Link/Inch Chain 6 ft Small gauge
WP0480 21 Link/Inch Chain 6 ft Bobstays, Mainstays
WP0993 Nails 50
WP0976 1/4" Copper Tape 108 ft Bottom sheathing
WP0426 Ship’s bell 1

DEADEYES, BLOCKS, AND OTHER WOOD FITTINGS

Note: All deadeyes and blocks are Walnut unless otherwise noted.

WP0390 3/32" Dia. Deadeyes 35

WP0339 9/64" Dia. Deadeyes 60
WP0340 3/16" Dia. Deadeyes 45
WP0301 3/32" Single blocks 40
WP0302 1/8" Single blocks 75
WP0304 3/16" Single blocks 25
WP0308 1/8" Double blocks 40
WP0310 3/16" Double blocks 15
WP0311 1/4" Double blocks 2

RIGGING LINE

Note: Rigging line is Cotton/Poly mix. Black is for standing rigging. Manila Hemp is for
running rigging. Stain line for other desired coloring.

WP1218 0.008" Dia. Black 15 yds

WP1210 0.021" Dia. Black 15 yds
WP1211 0.028" Dia. Black 15 yds
WP1215 0.040" Dia. Black 10 yds

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WP1241 0.008" Dia. Manila Hemp 50 yds
WP1242 0.021" Dia. Manila Hemp 25 yds
WOOD DOWELS

Note: All dowels are Beech unless otherwise noted. Dowels are supplied in lengths as noted. Cut to
length as required.

WP5105-24 5/16" x 24" 1 Foremast & mainmast

WP5104-24 1/4" x 18" 1 Mizzenmast
WP5103-24 3/16" x 24" 3 Fore & main topmast, jibboom
Fore & main lower topsail yards
WP5102-24 5/32" x 10" 1 Mizzen topmast
WP5101-18 1/8" x 18" 4 Fore & main topgallant masts
Mizzen crossjack
Spanker boom & gaff
Fore & main topsail yards
WP5100-12 5/64" x 12" 3 Fore & main topgallant yard
Main royal yard
WOOD STRIPS, SHEETS, AND BLOCKS

Note: All wood is Basswood or Limewood (European Basswood) unless otherwise noted. Wood strips,
sheets, and blocks are supplied in lengths as noted. Cut to length as required.

STRIPS

WP3600-24 1/32" x 1/32" x 24” 4

WP3602-24 1/32" x 1/16" x 24” 20
WP3603-24 1/32" x 3/32" x 24” 25
WP3604-24 1/32" x 1/8" x 24” 4
WP3661-24 3/64" x 3/32" x 24” 25
WP3660-24 3/64" x 1/8" x 24” 3
WP3687-24 3/64" x 3/16" x 24” 2
WP3618-24 1/16" x 1/16" x 24” 2
WP3619-24 1/16" x 3/32" x 24” 60
WP3620-24 1/16" x 1/8" x 24” 80
WP3622-24 1/16" x 3/16" x 24” 15
WP3623-24 1/16" x 1/4" x 24” 2
WP3625-24 3/32" x 3/32" x 24” 3
WP3626-24 3/32" x 1/8" x 24” 1
WP3628 -24 3/32" x 3/16" x 24” 1
WP3629-24 3/32" x 1/4" x 24” 1
WP3631-24 1/8" x 1/8" x 24” 2
WP3633-24 1/8" x 3/16" x 24” 2
WP3640-24 3/16" x 3/16" x 24” 1
WP3643-24 1/4" x 1/4" x 24” 1
WP3651-24 5/16" x 5/16" x 24” 1 For Bowsprit

SHEETS

WP4601-24 1/32" x 2" x 24” 1

WP4606-24 1/16" x 2" x 24” 1

BLOCKS
Note: Block sizes shown on plans must be cut from the piece supplied below.

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WP3609-24 3/4" x 2" x 12" 1 Stern blocks

LASER-CUT WOOD PARTS

Note: All Laser-Cut wood is Basswood or Limewood (European Basswood) unless otherwise noted.

WP4620-A 3/16" Thick Set 1

Center Keel 2 parts
Keel 2 parts
Sternpost 1 part
Cutting Tackle Block (special) 2 parts
Rudder 1 part
Stem 1 part

WP4620-B 3/16" Thick Set 1

Bulkheads J-O 6 parts

WP4620-C 3/16" Thick Set 1

Bulkheads D-I 6 parts

WP4620-D 3/16" Thick Set 1

Bulkheads A-C 3 parts

WP4607-E 1/16" Thick Set 1

Planksheer Set 2 sets (2 parts each)
Forward Main Rail Section 2 parts
Fore Top Forward Cross Frame 1 part
Main Top Forward Cross Frame 1 part
Fore Topmast Crosstrees 2 parts

WP4634 -F 1/32" Thick Set 1

Fore Top Platform 1 part
Main Top Platform 1 part
Mizzenmast & Gaff Hoops 20 parts
Grating Strips, 12" Long 2 parts 1/32" sq. holes after assemble
Jackstay Strips (12” long) 5 parts

WP4613-G 1/8" Thick Set 1

Fore and Mainmast Caps 2 parts
Bowsprit Cap 1 part
Cutting Tackle Block (typical) 4 parts
Whaleboat Davits 10 parts

WP4610-H 3/32" Thick Set 1

Forward Breasthook 1 part
Fore & Main Topmast Caps 2 parts
Mizzenmast Cap 1 part
Windlass Carrick Bitt/Knee Set 2 sets (2 parts each)
Carrick Bitt Deck Insert Pad 2 parts
Amidships Shelter Knee 6 parts
Foremast Coat 1 part
Mainmast Coat 1 part
Mizzenmast Coat 1 part

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WP4636-I 3/64" Thick Set 1
Forward Topgallant Rail Section 2 parts

WP4611-J 3/32" Thick Set 7

Whaleboat Lift Sets 7 parts each

PLANS AND INSTRUCTIONS

Note: Plans are printed on both sides of a single sheet.

WP2140MB Instruction manual 1

WPPL2140-A Plan, Sheet 1 & 2 1 1. Laser patterns 2. P-O-B hull
WPPL2140-B Plan, Sheet 3 & 4 1 3. Hull plan 4. Hull & spar details
WPPL2140-C Plan, Sheet 5 & 6 1 5. Rigging profile 6. Rigging sections
WPPL2140 Parts List 1

Note:
Page 16 of instructions refers to laser cut thick pads, this is an error. There are no laser cuts pads.
Those are to be made by builder.

Baseboard and pedestals not included in this kit