FALL - 2019

PRODUCTION OPERATION MANAGEMENT

FINAL REPORT ON ‘SOORTY ENTERPRISES’

SUBMITTED BY:
KATIMA RIZVI (60858)
TALHA KHAN (60267)
SUBMITTED TO:
DR. ABDULLAH ATHER
11/24/2019
 FINAL REPORT ON ‘SOORTY ENTERPRISES’ November 24, 2019

ACKNOWLEDGEMENT

“In the name of Allah, the most merciful and beneficent”

All praise to Almighty Allah, the most Courteous and compassionate. Who made the universe and presented
mankind with the knowledge and blessings of Allah be upon the Holy Prophet Muhammad (S.A.W.) who guided
mankind with the Holy Quran and Sunnah, the everlasting source of guidance and knowledge for humanity.

Words are very few to express our humble heartfelt gratitude and deepest affections to our great and respected
parents for being inspired for higher ideals of life, supported morally and financially throughout our studies, and
always prayed for glorious success about our pursuits throughout all of our life.

We like to thank our teacher, Dr. Abdullah Ather, who acted as our mentor throughout the semester and guided
us on our journey of the PO&M course and made it possible for us to compile this project report.

We deem it a great pleasure to be able to express the heartiest thankfulness and deep sense of devotion to
respected and worthy persons General Manager Mr. Shoaib Atta, Laundary Manager Mr. Bakhtiyar Ahmed and
Production Manager Mr. Javed Malik for their skillful guidance, unfailing patience, inspiring attitude and helpful
suggestions.

We would also like to say thanks the HOD of company’s department, Mr. Shakeel, Mr. Hammad, Mr. Saleem,
Mr. Saqib, Mr. Muhammad Kamran, Mr. Taj, Mr. Mansoor, and Mr. Haneef for giving me opportunity to learn in
the practical environment and their guidance throughout my training period. I also appreciate the cordial co-
operation from all concerned supervisors in the different departments.

We are responsible for errors and mistakes presented in the report and a positive and practical disapproval will
always be greeted warmth.

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Table of Contents
INTRODUCTION .......................................................................................................................................................... 5
Introduction to Soorty Enterprises ........................................................................................................................ 5
Mission of Soorty Enterprises ................................................................................................................................ 5
Soorty Enterprises’ Code of Conduct ..................................................................................................................... 5
Legal Compliance Expectation ........................................................................................................................... 5
2. Corporate Social Responsibility: Human Rights Expectation ......................................................................... 6
3. Health and Safety ........................................................................................................................................... 7
4. Environmental Management ......................................................................................................................... 8
5. Anti-Corruption .............................................................................................................................................. 8
Our Experience....................................................................................................................................................... 9
PRODUCTION DEPARTMENT OF SOORTY ENTERPRISES .......................................................................................... 10
The Production Process ....................................................................................................................................... 15
Flow Chart of Denim Production ......................................................................................................................... 15
Manufacturing of Denim...................................................................................................................................... 15
CERTIFICATIONS OF SOORTY ENTERPRISES ............................................................................................................. 21
ISO 9001:2015 ...................................................................................................................................................... 21
Business Social Compliance Initiative (BSCI) ........................................................................................................ 21
SA8000® Standard................................................................................................................................................ 21
GOTS..................................................................................................................................................................... 21
WRAP ................................................................................................................................................................... 21
SUSTAINABILITY ISSUES IN DENIM INDUSTRY ......................................................................................................... 22
Sustainable Washes by Soorty Enterprises .......................................................................................................... 23
Utilities ............................................................................................................................................................. 25
Water Management............................................................................................................................................. 25
Boilers .............................................................................................................................................................. 25
Generator ......................................................................................................................................................... 26
Air Compressor ................................................................................................................................................ 26
Research and Development ............................................................................................................................. 26
Responsibility ................................................................................................................................................... 27
Receive and Issue ............................................................................................................................................. 27
SOORTY ENTERPRISES’ PRODUCTION PLANNING CONTROL ................................................................................... 28

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AFTER IMPLEMENTATION OF SUSTAINABLITY PLAN ........................................................................................... 29

What is Brongo? ............................................................................................................................................... 29
Time Study of New and Old Brongo Machine:................................................................................................. 30
IMPACT ON THE ORGANIZATIONAL SUCCESS.......................................................................................................... 32
CONCLUSION AND RECOMMENDATION ................................................................................................................. 33
APPENDIX ................................................................................................................................................................. 34
References ............................................................................................................................................................... 37

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INTRODUCTION

Introduction to Soorty Enterprises

Soorty began as a shop in the 1980s, shipping its first export order in 1983. Our first decade was of slow and
steady growth. During this period we cultivated distinction in assembly line production and created the right
systems for apparel manufacturing. It was under the vision of Soorty’s Managing Director, Mr. Shahid Soorty,
that Soorty began focusing on denim. In the mid 90’s, after extensive travel and research, Mr. Soorty put up one
of Pakistan’s most complex laundries for denim wet processing, providing Soorty with a sustainable competitive
advantage in this field. In fact, we were the first company to bring Tonello washers to Pakistan, leading the way
for the rest of the industry.

From then on, the growth has just compounded. In 2007, we integrated backwards and established Soorty
Denim. The culture at Soorty, from the top to the bottom, is all about denim ever since the mill was put up. We
have developed a strong passion for denim, and want to inculcate this passion for denim in our end consumers.
Our dream is to inspire everyone to love their denim, and for denim to be completely sustainable. Soorty will be
at the forefront of the creation of denim fabrics and jeans, with a special emphasis on quality, cost and delivery
of our products. We will do this through research, innovation and a sharp focus on our customers’ expectations
while ensuring a sustainable impact on our Earth and her people.

Mission of Soorty Enterprises

Soorty will be at the forefront of the creation of denim fabrics and jeans, with a special emphasis on quality, cost
and delivery of our products. We will do this through research, innovation and a sharp focus on our customers’
expectations while ensuring a sustainable impact on our Earth and her people.

Their aim is to come up with the most innovative and inspiring ideas and solutions and to create a benchmark in
the local and international markets.

Soorty Enterprises’ Code of Conduct

Soorty Enterprises Private Limited (“SEL”)’s mission is to conduct the business efficiency with good corporate
governance though being a good corporate citizen to protect environment and improve quality of life of the
communities to ensuring the company longterm sustainability growth. For that reason, SEL is committed to
ensuring that the working conditions in SEL’s supply chain are safe, people is treated equally with respect and
dignity, and the operating process are environmentally responsible. “SEL Supplier Sustainable Code of Conduct”
is drawing upon internationally recognized standards and buyers’ COC in order to advance social and
environmental responsibility. Therefore, SEL’s suppliers are obligated, in all of their activities, to operate in full
compliance with the laws and regulations of the countries in which they operates while upholding the SEL
policies concerning compliance with all applicable laws, Business Ethics, Human Rights, Health and Safety and
Environment as indicated in each subsection of this code.

Legal Compliance Expectation

As a minimum, SEL expects our suppliers and contractors to maintain a strong commitment to:

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 Complying with all applicable national and/or local laws and regulations, including but not limited to
labor, immigration, occupational health and safety and the environment.
 Maintaining all the necessary licenses and permits to operate in compliance with international, national
and local laws and regulations applicable to its business operations, national and local laws and
regulations applicable to its business operations.
 Notifying SEL upon receiving notification of any regulatory inspection or legal action relating to
suppliers or contractors’ business activities with SEL.

2. Corporate Social Responsibility: Human Rights Expectation

As a minimum, SEL expects our suppliers and contractors to maintain a strong commitment to:

 Freedom of Labour, by not engaging or employing people, under any circumstances, against their own
free will.
 Freedom of Association, by respecting the legal right of employees to become members of a labor union
or otherwise.
 Prevention of Child Labour, by not employing children below the legal minimum age requirement of the
country. If the local law does not establish a minimum age, employees must be at least sixteen (16)
years of age. Employees must be at least eighteen (18) years of age to perform night work or hazardous
work, except where permitted by local laws.
 Wages and Benefits, by complying with all applicable laws related to employee compensation, including
those related to minimum wage, overtime hours and legally mandated benefits.
 Working Hours, by complying with local laws or agreements regarding working hours, overtime hours,
and work during holidays and work during holidays.
 Non-Discrimination, by respecting diversity in the workplace and not engaging in any form of
discrimination based on sexual orientation, race, color, religion, age, marital status, pregnancy, political
affiliation, or disability in hiring and employment practices. Layoff practices that are managed in
accordance with labour laws.
 Suppliers and contractors must not unfairly terminate any employment contract without valid reasons,
which must legally be related to an employee’s work performance.
 Humane Treatment, by respecting workers’ rights and ensuring no harsh and inhumane treatment,
including any form of mental or physical coercion, or verbal abuse of workers.
 Foreign or Migrant Workers, where if foreign or migrant workers are engaged, they are to be employed
in full compliance with the labor and immigration laws of the host country.
 Prior to hiring, the basic terms of employment must be provided to workers in their native language or a
language in which they understand.
 Passports and other forms of personal identification must remain in the worker’s possession at all times
and are never to be withheld by suppliers, facilities or any third party.
 Employed in full compliance with the labor and immigration laws of the host country.
 Prior to hiring, the basic terms of employment must be provided to workers in their native language or a
language in which they understand. Passports and other forms of personal identification must remain in
the worker’s possession at all times and are never to be withheld by suppliers, facilities or any third
party.

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 Establishing grievance mechanisms that provide a means of anonymous grievance reporting and
appropriate follow-up measures while protecting the confidentiality of the complainant, appropriate
follow-up measures while protecting the confidentiality of the complainant.
 Promoting positive labor relations between employers and employees from the beginning to end of
employment, including the process of contract signing, work assignments, employee management,
probation period, opportunities for development, a good work environment, talent attraction and
retention, probation period, opportunities for development, a good work environment, talent attraction
and retention, pay raises, welfare and benefits, transfers, and end of employment.

Social Responsibility

Expectation

As a minimum, SEL expects our suppliers and contractors to maintain a strong commitment to:

 Managing impacts on health, safety, and community security throughout the entire project cycle, from
project planning to execution, production, logistics, decommission and demolition, and
decommissioning.
 Respecting surrounding communities and contributing positive benefits to societies in which they
operate.
 Participating where possible, in voluntary, industrial, governmental or community-based corporate
responsibility initiatives.

3. Health and Safety

Expectation

As a minimum, SEL expects our suppliers and contractors to maintain a strong commitment to:

 Working Environment must be a safe and hygienic place to work, with sufficient light, heating, and
ventilation. Suppliers must provide access to clean toilet facilities, to potable water, and, if applicable, to
sanitary facilities for food preparation and storage. Where provided, dormitories must be clean, safe,
and meet the basic needs of workers.
 Building Safety; Suppliers must ensure that the structure of the production unit, including dormitory
facilities provided by the production unit, is stable and safe, does not exceed the approved loading, and
does not put people in jeopardy.
 Suppliers must conduct building inspections on a regular basis as per country law or industry practice.
Building must be approved only for industrial use and it must be under single occupancy/ownership.

Suppliers must align the building structure and use (all areas of the buildings including the rooftop) with the
approved building plan, with no additional floors or external retrofit structures.

Suppliers must ensure that a valid fire license is available, covering the entire building.

Fire Safety & Emergency Response Suppliers must take precautions to prevent accidents and injury to health
from occurring in the course of work, by ensuring safe handling and storage of chemicals, the safety of

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machinery and equipment, electrical safety, the safety, strength and stability of buildings, including residential
facilities where provided, and by providing adequate safeguards against fire.

Suppliers must provide workers with regular health & safety training including fire safety training, training in
waste management and handling of chemicals and other dangerous materials.

4. Environmental Management
Pollution Prevention and Resource Reduction

Expectation

As a minimum, SEL expects our suppliers and contractors to maintain a strong commitment to:

 Comply with environmental laws, regulations and standards; obtaining and maintaining permits,
conducting regular audits, sampling and monitoring of relevant parameters are within their applicable
legal limits such as air emissions, noise, wastewater discharge, soil and groundwater quality, ecosystem
preservation
 Reducing environmental impacts from production, services and logistics throughout the entire
operational cycle, by adhering to pollution prevention principles that include minimizing generation of
waste, waste water, air emission, including efficient resource use.
 Implementation & monitoring of environmental performance, such as greenhouse gas accounting, raw
material and energy consumption, waste generation, waste water discharges, and air emissions.
 Reducing climate change impacts from greenhouse gases emissions.
 Preventing accidental releases of hazardous materials into the environment and creating adverse
impacts on surrounding communities.
 Eliminating and reducing the use of restricted, toxic and hazardous constituents/substances in products
and services Promoting greater environmental responsibility and collaborating with SEL on the
development of SEL Group’s green products and services, and conducting business with environmental
or social benefits to ensure the long-term sustainability of business of the company.
 Chemical Management Supplier must identify which chemicals are used in the factory and whether
these could have a less harmful substitute. For harmful chemicals which cannot be substituted, supplier
need to follow regional laws regarding obtaining permissions to purchase, store and use them.
 Ensure safe handling of chemicals and have the procedure in place for how to mix, transport and use the
chemicals.
 Supplier must keep strict control over these procedures in order to avoid fires, spillages and other
accidents from happening.

5. Anti-Corruption
SEL expects suppliers to adhere to high ethical standards in business practices by not tolerating, permitting, or
engaging in bribery, corruption, or unethical practices whether in dealings with public officials or individuals in
the private sector.

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Suppliers and contractors must not offer, pay, solicit or accept bribes, including facilitation payments. Suppliers
must have an anti-corruption policy and procedures in place, and review them regularly to ensure that they are
operating effective.

Our Experience
We organized an industrial trip to Soorty Enterprises in order to provide exposure to the students of the best
denim manufacturing industry. We left the university at 09:30 am and reached the facility at 11:30 am. We were
first welcomed inside the beautifully constructed and spaciously built facility by Mr. Irfan Khan (Manager
Weaving) who gave us a brief introduction of Soorty’s mission and how it aims to be at the forefront of the
creation of denim fabrics and jeans. Next we met Mr. Jamal Ahmed Qureshi (Manager Compliance) who gave us
a tour of the machines and areas when denim jeans are created. We were also explained step by step about
each process that was involved in denim manufacture:

Ball Warping – Multiple ends of yarn are reeled into a cylinder to form an untwisted rope of parallel yarns which
has a maximum capacity of 528 yarns

Rope Dyeing – These ropes of yarn are then dyed by leuco dye which is fixed on it. This is a continuous process
for which Smartec machines are used. The ropes are mainly dyed by indigo colored vat or sulfur dyes.

Re-beaming – Next, the ropes are opened and leas are removed from them by parallel wounding them on a
beam using a Karl Mayer machine.

Sizing – Another Karl Mayer machine is used in this process, only this time it covers the yarn with a sticky
substance at high temperature to strengthen it.

Weaving – The warp and the filling is interlaced. The filling thread is inserted between 2 layers of warp sheets
using a suitable carrier. TOYOTA’s Airjet and PICANOL’s Rapier weaving machine is used at Soorty

Finishing – This comprises of a series of value adding steps such as Singeing and Bleaching in which fiber
hairiness is removed and fiber is bleached respectively. Mercerization is also done to remove the natural twist of
fiber. Next, the fiber is washed in various mixtures which add luster and strength along with removing natural
waxes and chances of shrinkage.

Inspection – This is the final and the most important step because it determines the quality standard of the
industry. In order to test the material fastness, drip ability, strength, elasticity etc. tests are carried out and there
is even a stitching unit to test the material’s reliability.

All of these processes are done to ensure that the customer receives only the material of the best quality. The
industry has come a long way from its vision and this made us realize that the textile industry is not extinct in
Pakistan instead, it has a bright future lying ahead of it which has a great potential for innovation and
advancement. We would like to thank SOORTY Enterprise for giving us such an amazing experience and also
Being Student for providing us an opportunity that brought us closer to the industry. We look forward to more
events like these and hope that there will be much more to learn from them.

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PRODUCTION DEPARTMENT OF SOORTY ENTERPRISES

The production department of Soorty Enterprises is based on the production of garments as well as denim.

Garment Dry Process

Garment Dry Processes are used to give rough look or worn look to Denim (Jeans) Products and their proper
look can be seen after washing.

Normally, these special effects are most widely used to Denim Products:

 Mustaches/Whiskers
 Scraping
 Grinding
 Destroy
 Hand ripping
 Pinning
 KMnO4 Spraying
 Tie Effect

Whiskers/Mustaches

Whiskers/Moustaches are
produced by Local Abrasion. It is
purely mechanical process, not using
any chemical. It is a water free
process therefore no drying
required.

Method Engineering

 Firstly, Pattern Master makes the pattern

 Fix the Pattern to the legs of stand

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 Load the Garment on the legs of stand

 Adjust the Garment by making right placement of Whiskers area according to pattern
 Press the pedal by foot so that Pattern could be visible on the Garment
 Produce the Whiskers by rubbing the Emery Paper on the desired area of Garment
 Unload the Garment.
 Pattern is developed according to given work order by the customer.

Pattern Formation Method

A Thick rubber Sheet/Hard Foam is fixed on a thin Plastic Sheet and Tracing/Marking of required Whiskers is
done on the Rubber Sheet. Then cut the Rubber along the Traced lines of the Pattern and Whisker’s Design get
visible in the form of required Jumps and Cuts. And pattern is fixed on the stand.

Standards

During Whisker’s formation on the Garment following standards must be kept in special concentration according
to the Customer Sample:

 Placement of Whiskers (Whisker’s Area)

 No. of Whiskers
 Sand Paper/Emery Paper, For Whiskers 600# 400# or 320# Sand Paper is used for Abrasion.
 Intensity of Whiskers, Intensity of Abrasion should be according to Work Order Sample.
 Whisker’s pattern & Shape must be according to Work Order Sample. Its edges, its thickness, its starting
and ending shapes should be accurately formed.
 Size of Whiskers, Length and width of Whiskers, starting and ending points of Whiskers should also be
kept in concentration and compared with customer sample.

Scrapping

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Scraps the garments from the require area by Local Abrasion. It is purely mechanical process, not using any
chemical. It is a water free process therefore no drying required. Emery paper is being used to scrape the
garments in particular placement & design.

Method Engineering

 Pick the Garment from the Trolley.

 Mark the Scrapping Area with the chalk.
 Load the Garment on Inflated Balloon.
 Close the evacuation valve and turn the filling valve to fill the air pressure in the balloon up to
requirements and Garment should be in appropriate tension.
 Scraps the Garment with Emery Paper on desired areas of panels.
 Then, evacuation valve is turned to evacuate the air from the balloon.
 Unload the Garment and place it on the trolley.

Machine & Work Aids

 Balloons made by Rubber tubes

 Compressor
 Valves for Air Pressure
 Pipelines for air transfer
 Sand Paper/Emery Paper (Silicon Carbide Paper)
usually 400/320 grains
 Trolleys for Material Movement

Abrasion Method

For Scrapping, garment is usually rubbed from Up to downward direction

Standards

During Scrapping on the Garment following standards must be kept in special concentration according to the
Customer Sample:

 Placement of Scrapping (Scrapping Area)

 Sand Paper/Emery Paper, For Scrapping 400# or 320# Sand Paper is generally used in Industry for
Abrasion.
 Intensity of Scrapping, Intensity of Abrasion should be according to Work Order Sample.
 Scrapping Shape must be according to Work Order Sample. Its edges, its thickness, its starting and
ending shapes should be accurately formed.

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 Size of Scrapping, Length and width of Scrapping, starting and ending points of Scrapping should also be
kept in concentration and compared with customer sample

Faults

Following Faults are observed during Scrapping:

 Wrong Marking for Scrapping.

 Merging of Scraps is improper and it appears just like a band.
 Uneven Scrapping area means scraping area is smaller for one side (Right or Left) and scrapping area is
larger for other side (Right or Left). This could be due to wrong abrasion of worker.
 Silvet in the scrapping area due to less filling of Air Pressure in the balloon. This is an unwanted line.
 Thread arises in the Scrapping area which causes to produce an Unscrapped line in the Scrapping Area.
 Scrapping Placement is out means distance from the waist band, out seam, inseam or bottom is
incorrect. Up or down Scrapping is done.
 Intensity of Scrapping is incorrect means garment is less abraided or more intensely abraided then
required abrasion. This is due to wrong Scrapping #.
 Uneven Abrasion means during Abrasion; Sand paper/Emery paper is worn out after some rubbing. So,
the difference between stating and ending Abrasion is arisen. More abrasion at right panel and less
abrasion at left panel.

Miss Operation

 Rubber Tubes get Punchier &when it is repaired then there could be a problem in scrapping at that
specific point.
 Valves for filling & evacuation of air in the Balloons could be damaged.
 Compressor is not working properly.
 Grinding
 Grinding isgenerally being done to get the worn effect on the edges, mostly at the edge of pockets and
on the bottom of garment etc.
 Grinding is being done on pocket edges & bottom hems edges by running against abrasion surface or
stone to achieve worn out effect.

Destroy

Destroy is Heavy/Intense Abrasion area on thighs, yokes, fly, back pockets, knee or any other place on the
Garment which is made purposely to create used look.

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Pinning

Pinning is done to give an effect below the pockets over belt or at the sides by the help tag gun or by machine.

Binding

There are two types of binding;

 Tie binding
 Net binding

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The Production Process

Denim is a durable cotton twill textile in which the weft passes under two or more warp threads. It is
typically used to make jeans, overalls, and other clothing. Denim was traditionally colored blue with indigo dye
to make blue "jeans".

Flow Chart of Denim Production

Spinning
↓
Bale Warping
↓
Rope Dyeing
↓
Long Chain Beaming
↓
Sizing
↓
Weaving
↓
Finishing
↓
Inspection & Folding
↓
Packing
↓
Dispatch

Manufacturing of Denim
The term "Denim" has originated from the city of Nimes in France where "serge de Nimes" was manufactured.
Denim is made from a vat dye, the Indigo dye, which is applied to cotton fabric in loosely held form in layers. As
far as manufacturing process of denim is concerned, it is similar to that of Grey fabric up to the process of
weaving with the only difference that in case of Denim Fabric, it is dyed at the stage of sizing where as in case of
Grey Fabric, the decision regarding dyeing stage depends upon the finished product. The details of each process
are given below:

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Denim manufacturing

Spinning

The initial stage of denim production is Opening and Blending. Opening begins with baled cotton fiber being
separated into small tufts. A blend of cotton fibers is made on each opening line. These bales are selected using
USDA High Volume Instrument (HVI) data, and PCCA's unique computer blending software produces optimal
yarn strength.

Cotton is delivered by air suction from the Opening and Blending lines, through additional cleaning and blending
machines, to the Cards. The major functions of Carding are to remove foreign matter and short fibers, form the
cotton into a web and convert the web into a rope-like form known as a sliver.

The drawing process produces a single, uniform sliver from six card slivers. The additional blending, paralleling
of fibers and cleaning in this process produces a sliver for Open End and Ring Spinning. For Ring Spinning,
however, the sliver must pass through an additional process called Roving.

Cotton Fibers are formed into a yarn by centrifugal action in Open- End Spinning. Individual fibers are laid down
in the groove of a fast spinning rotor and twisted into yarn. After the cotton fibers are spun into yarn, the yarn is
wound into a large package.

Open End Spinning

The Open End Spinning Machines have robots on each side which automatically pieces up (repairs broken ends).
On a different track, they have another robot that automatically doffs (removes full packages) and starts up a
new package. The size and quality of each yarn end are monitored by the Barco Profile System to ensure
uniformity.

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Ring Spinning

In Ring Spinning, the spinning frames receive Roving via a transit system from the roving machine. Yarn is
formed from cotton fibers that are twisted together after being drafted by passing between three steel rolls and
three rubber rolls. The yarn then is wrapped on a bobbin as it spins on a spindle by use of a traveler. The
relationship between roll speeds, traveler speeds and spindle speeds controls the amount of twist in the yarn.
Ends down levels and production information are gathered by the Uster Ring Expert System. The spinning
frames automatically doff bobbins full of yarn and send them to package winding.

ACG also has the capacity to produce Amsler Open-End yarn, also known as Faux Ring Spun yarn. This
technology enables ACG to impart various slub patterns into an Open-End yarn. Denim made from this type of
yarn has yarn character and surface interest that cannot be achieved with traditional Open-End yarn.

Fabric Weaving

a. Grey Yarn on Cones

Normally yarns received for weaving in cone forms are either from ring spinning or from open end spinning in
single or double fold as required. For weaving, yarn used is categorized into:

 Warp yarn
 Weft yarn

Normally for Weaving, yarn used as warp should be sufficiently strong to withstand stress and strains exerted
during weaving operations. Hence they are having Count Strength Product(CSP) and further sized to increase its
strength. The weft yarn is directly used on weaving machines and in some cases, if required, is rewound also so
as to enhance its performance in weaving.

b. Warping on Sectional/ Direct Warping

The warp yarn is required to be fed into a sheet form to the weaving machines. At warping, the individual cones
are put into the creel (the number of cones depends upon fabric construction) and yarn from individual cones is
pulled together in sheet form, wound on a barrel called warping beams (for Direct warping) or on weaving
beams (for Sectional Warping). Normally if warp sheet is with patterns of different coloured yarns it is processed
on sectional warping machine.

c. Sizing of yarn in Set/ Beam to Beam Position

The object of Sizing is to improve the strength of yarn by chemically binding the fibres with each other and also
improve upon its friction resistance capacity by chemically coating the surface of yarn/fibres. Further, number of
threads in warpers beam sheet is very less against number of threads required in whole width of fabric. Hence
multiplication of sheets by drawing yarns together from many warp beams and again making one sheet is also

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performed on sizing machine. On sizing, normally, 8-12 % size material on warp thread is applied. This
improvement in strength and frictional resistance characteristic of warp yarn is essential because during
weaving, yarn has to undergo severe strain & stress as well as frictional operations.

d. Drawing–in

Weaving is basically interlacement of two sets i.e. warp and weft threads in desired sequence and pattern. To
obtain this interlacement, warp yarn sheet is bifurcated & opened in the form of two layers/ sheet and weft
thread is inserted between so opened two warp sheets. This operation is called shedding. to perform shedding
the warp yarn needs to be passed through healed eyes of the healed shafts, this operation is called as drawing-
in.

e. Beam Gaiting or Knotting on Loom

The drawn weavers beams are fixed on weaving machines, threads are tied and healed shafts are coupled. This
operation is called Beam Gaiting. If undrawn warp threads are directly knotted to the threads of finished beams,
it is called Knotting. These operations are essential because normally weavers beam can carry only certain
length of warp sheet on it and when so woven, whole length is converted to the fabric by weaving machine.
Further warp length is required to be fed which can be done by knotting or gaiting other beams on weaving
machine.

f. Weaving

As stated earlier, weaving is interlacing two sets of yarn and making fabric. One set is called warp thread which
is in sheet form, the other one is called weft thread which is inserted between two layers of warp sheet by
means of a suitable carrier i.e. Shuttle, Projectile, Rapier, Air current, Water current, etc. Depending upon the
type of the weaving machines. The different types of technologies available for weaving machines are briefly
explained as below:

 Conventional Shuttle Weaving System by Ordinary Looms or Automatic Looms.

 Shuttle less Weaving System by Airjet /Waterjet/Rapier/Projectile

Shuttle loom is a conventional Technology with much less production on account of slow speed and excessive
wear and tear of machinery. This shuttle loom technology has now become obsolete. Denim is woven through
Shuttle less Weaving System by using 96 ZAX-e Type Tsodakoma Corporation’s Airjet looms or rapier looms or
projectile looms. These looms are distinguished by weft insertion method, which is briefly discussed hereunder.

Airjet Looms

These types of looms adopt the latest development in Weaving Technology where weft insertion is done with
the help of compressed air. A very high weft insertion rate up to 1800 metre per minute is achieved. Compared

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to rapier and projectile looms, these looms are less versatile but are economical and are used in mass textile
production unit like denim.

Finishing
a. Grey Fabric

The finally woven fabric or Grey Fabric, as it is popularly called; wound on a cloth roll is taken out from weaving
machines at certain intervals and checked on inspection machines for possibilities of any weaving fault. If such
faults are seen anywhere in fabric during inspection, certain corrective steps are taken at weaving, warping,
sizing, etc so that they can be minimized in subsequent product. This is a quality control exercise.

b. Denim Fabric

Denim Fabrics woven of 100% cotton would be very strong and durable. Traditionally Blue Denim is warp faced
cotton fabric with 3 x 1 twill construction with warp being dyed in a solid color and weft left un-dyed. The look
and quality of the Denim Fabric shall improve after dyeing, the process of which differs from plant to plant.
Normally the process of dyeing dictates the technology of Denim manufacturing.

The dyeing for Denim Fabric happens at the sizing stage. Generally there are two most popular methods of
dyeing Denim Fabric. They are:

 Rope Dyeing
 Sheet Dyeing

A company can adopt any of the methods. Sheet Dyeing Method is commonly used for manufacture of its Denim
Fabrics, which has following advantages over Rope Dyeing Method:

1. The technology is less capital intensive.

2. The technology is a proven one.
3. The cost of production is lower.
4. The process time is lower.
5. The Sheet Dyeing machines are very easy to operate.
6. The only defect in Sheet dyeing is that there is a problem of center to selvedge shade variation.

c. Sheet Dyeing Process

This process eliminates a few intermediate processes of the rope dyeing. The yarn sheet is washed with
chemicals such as caustic and washing soda and after squeezing the excess water; the yarn sheet is allowed to
pass through Dyeing Troughs one time for oxidation and development of dye on yarn. After dyeing, the dyed

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yarn is washed again with fresh water for two-three times and finalIy squeezed before allowing it to pass
through six drying cylinders. The dyed yarn enters the starching device and sizing is done. After sizing, the sized
warp beam goes for weaving. After weaving, the woven Denim Fabrics goes for various finishing processes
consisting of brushing, singeing, washing, impregnation for dressing and drying. Brushing and singeing should
eliminate impurities and help to even the surface of the fabric. Dressing regulates the hand and rigidity of the
fabric while compressive shrinking regulates its dimensional stability.

Even today Denim Fabric without Indigo Dyeing is not called authentic Denim. Initially when Denim Fabric
entered the fashion market, Denim manufacturers were using Natural Indigo Dye, which was costly and giving a
natural finish. Though Synthetic Indigo Dye has gradually replaced Natural Indigo Dye, some unorganized
manufacturers still prefer the latter and attract premium after branding them “Natural Dye Used”.

d. Making-Up

Weaving of fabrics on such multi sizes is not economical, hence a standard width fabric is then sent to making
up. Fabrics are cut into the desired width as per size required on this machine. Denim Fabric and Grey Fabric are
thoroughly checked for various types of defects such as:

 Weaving Defects
 Uneven Dyeing
 Bleaching and Dyeing Defect
 Oil Stain
 Patches

Here the final product is categorized quality-wise. The products then found okay are segregated and sent to
packaging department whereas defective ones are sent for correction. After inspection, the sets are wrapped
with polythene covers and sent for dispatch as per buyer’s specifications.

Dispatch
Rolls and sets so formed and packed as per buyers’ requirements are then sent for final dispatches.

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CERTIFICATIONS OF SOORTY ENTERPRISES

ISO 9001:2015
Quality management systems — Requirements

ISO 9001:2015 specifies requirements for a quality management system when an organization:

a) Needs to demonstrate its ability to consistently provide products and services that meet customer and
applicable statutory and regulatory requirements, and

b) Aims to enhance customer satisfaction through the effective application of the system, including processes
for improvement of the system and the assurance of conformity to customer and applicable statutory and
regulatory requirements.

All the requirements of ISO 9001:2015 are generic and are intended to be applicable to any organization,
regardless of its type or size, or the products and services it provides.

Business Social Compliance Initiative (BSCI)

BSCI has previously contracted with SAAS to conduct surveillance of BSCI audits and auditing companies to verify
that BSCI auditing protocols are being followed. The auditing measures provide better insight into the audit
quality and, at minimum, include a regular schedule of SAAS office audits and shadow audits of BSCI auditing
companies and auditors. At this time, SAAS has ceased its oversight activities on behalf of BSCI and BSCI has
developed other arrangements for its oversight program.

SA8000® Standard
The SA8000® Standard is the leading social certification standard for factories and organizations across the globe.
It was established by Social Accountability International in 1997 as a multi-stakeholder initiative. Over the years,
the Standard has evolved into an overall framework that helps certified organizations demonstrate their
dedication to the fair treatment of workers across industries and in any country.

SA8000 measures social performance in eight areas important to social accountability in workplaces, anchored
by a management system element that drives continuous improvement in all areas of the Standard. It is
appreciated by brands and industry leaders for its rigorous approach to ensuring the highest quality of social
compliance in their supply chains, all the while without sacrificing business interests.

GOTS
The Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) was developed through collaboration by leading standard setters
with the aim of defining requirements that are recognized world-wide and that ensure the organic status of
textiles from harvesting of the raw materials through environmentally and socially responsible manufacturing all
the way to labeling in order to provide credible assurance to the consumer.

WRAP
WRAP is the world's largest independent certification program mainly focused on the apparel, footwear, and
sewn products sectors.

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Becoming a WRAP certified facility involves much more than simply passing an audit. We take a collaborative
approach to social compliance certification in which we work with our facilities to ensure that they remain in
compliance with our 12 Principles. This does require, however, that all of our facilities actively engage in the
process themselves and see to it that effective management systems are maintained to ensure compliance
requirements are met.

SUSTAINABILITY ISSUES IN DENIM INDUSTRY

The fashion industry is “incredibly wasteful and harmful to the environment." That is the message that designer
Stella McCartney, and an increasing number of other brands, have taken to addressing. Given its focus on fast,
cheap, and trend-specific fashion that is essentially meant to be disposable, fashion industry often gets a bad
rap for it the damage it does to the environment. From growing cotton to manufacturing textiles, water is an
essential component. We take a look at the relationship between fashion manufacturing and H20.

20 percent – The average amount of global industrial water pollution that can be tied to garment
manufacturing. (World Resources Institute).

25 – The number of recycled plastic bottles (reclaimed from the ocean) that activewear brand Girlfriend
Collective uses to make each pair of its leggings. (TFL).

85 percent – The percentage of water used in textile processing that goes into dying the fabrics, which, in many
cases, leads to run off, thereby polluting nearby water sources. (Cotton, Inc.).

715 gallons – How much water it takes to produce the cotton needed for one t-shirt – that is almost three years’
worth of drinking water. (WWF).

1,468 gallons – The average amount of water that Reformation saves per pair of its eco-friendly denim. (TFL).

1,800 gallons – The gallons of water to grow enough cotton to produce just one pair jeans. (Tree Hugger).

1,900 – The number of individual fibers that can be rinsed off a single synthetic garment (namely, one made
from polyester) and end up in our oceans. (The Guardian).

100,000 – The number of pairs of jeans that Levi recently manufactured with one of its Chinese suppliers using
100 percent recycled water. (Levis).

1 million – The number of pairs of sneakers made from reclaimed ocean plastic that adidas sold in 2017. Each
pair of shoes reuses 11 plastic bottles. (CNBC)

25 billion gallons –The water required for one year’s worth of global textile production (including cotton
farming). (Elle MacArthur Foundation).

1.3 trillion gallons – The amount of water used each year for fabric dyeing alone. (World Resources Institute).

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Sustainable Washes by Soorty Enterprises

There are three types of machines in Soorty Unit 9 that uses for the sustainable washes purpose.

These types of washes are the near coming future of garment wet and dry processes, because these washes are
works on very low percentage of water and chemicals concentration and also these type of washes are less time
taken and less labor require for these washes as compare to present processing zone of garment.

 Laser Machine
 Ozone Machine
 E-Flow Machine

Laser Section
In our laser depart we have 4 laser machine of Jeanologia Flexi HS3D and 2 machines of Jeanologia Flexi HR. We
can produces dry process effects like Whisker , Scrapping ,Chevrons, Tie effects with help of infrared rays on
different pixel times and dpi and we can also produce ripping and cuts effects on garments through different
breakage type. We can do every type of fashion working through laser machine because it works on image
which we draw on adobe photo shop and feed the laser machine then laser machine just read the designing and
produces the image effect on garments on the selected area. While the pixel time, dpi and breakage type are
the control parameters of laser machine the reading selection of these parameters depends on buyer’s
requirement or provided counter piece.

In my training session i work on weaving effects on garment through laser technology and make diamond weave
on garment and as well as worked on dry process effects through laser technology on raw garment and further
did wet processing on this garment for the judgment of these dry process effects.

Below given images is my trail working at laser department.

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Ozone Section
We have 2 jeanologia ozone machine in our unit. we can produce wet process effects like lighten the indigo
shade, produce random effect on indigo dyed garment & remove back staining from garment through ozone
gas, because ozone gas is oxidizing agent for indigo.

In my training session I did bleaching of indigo dyed garments, produced random effect and got grain effect on
through ozone gas.

Below attached images are my trail working on ozone machine.

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E-FLOW
In this machine we can achieve wet process effects on low quantity of water and chemicals through nano bubble
particles showering of chemicals. In e-flow machine nano bubble particle showering of chemicals provide a
cloudy environment of chemicals which results in that whole garment reacts with chemicals. We can save huge
amount of chemicals and water through this machine as compare to present garment wet process.

Utilities

Utilities department of SEL U-09 deals with Air Compressor, Generator, Water Management, Boilers and
General Maintenance.

Water Management
SEL has a water hydrant at Mehran town Karachi. This hydrant system produces about 14 lac US gallon (1 US
gallon= 4.5 liters) on daily basis through bore system. And provide the different units of SEL through
underground pipe lines. Water consumption of unit 9 is 6 lac gallons on daily basis. TDS of this water ranges
from 3500 to 4500.

Boilers
SEL U-09 has 2 gas boilers and 2 coal boilers. 1 gas boiler has the capacity of 6 tons and other one has 3 tons.
In coal boilers 1 has the capacity of 10 tons and other one has 6 tons. Steam consumption of unit 9 A & 9 B is

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around 8 tons per hour. Coal boiler produces the steam of 5.5
to 6 bar pressure. They are generating steam from coal boilers
and gas oilers place on standby condition.

Generator
SEL U-09 has 1 mega KW Gas generator, 1 KTA diesel ( 1000 KW)
generator & 1 QST 30 diesel generator for the power generation.
They are generating the power from diesel generators and gas
generator place on stand by condition.

Air Compressor
There are 6 air compressors for producing
the compressed air in soorty unit 9.

 Air Compressor ( Atlas copco) 55 K.W

 Air Compressor ( Atlas copco) 55 K.W VSD
 Air Compressor ( Kaiser) 75 K.W
 Air Compressor ( Atlas copco) 75 K.W
 Air Compressor ( Atlas copco) 75 K.W
 Air Compressor ( Chinese) 37 K.W

Research and Development

R&D team is always busy in getting and implementing new and innovative ideas. Our development process is driven
by addressing the global market trends and producing garments which encompass wash flexibility and performance.

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We research with industry experts. Attend garment fairs worldwide and include all influence which is important
to our customers. The department has a strong coordination with production facilities to ensure garments
compliance and establish efficiency and development improvements.

Responsibility
 To deal with garments quality and design development as per customer seasonal requirements and for
inspirations.

Receive and Issue

This depart is responsible that how much quantity of garments we receive from other units & how much issue
them after process

The other unit sends their garments in this unit by the help of Chelan. They also produce the fresh garments
issue status in which no defect found. In every order they receive 3% to 5% excess garments of the exact order
for their backup. If there is any issue like spots rejection, worn garments then they cover from that excess
garments

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SOORTY ENTERPRISES’ PRODUCTION PLANNING CONTROL

 PPC depart is responsible for production planning
 They plan that which style should stitch in which unit also which style should wash in which unit
 They got a garment from merchandiser for which they plan & evaluate it according to the fashion
We have four categories which are,
1. Rinse
2. Basic
3. Fashion basic
4. Super fashion
 We set the garment according to the category
 The most important thing for planning is to remember the last loading date & delivery date
 Stitching, planning & washing should be under coordination
 They should aware from all situations
 Planning depart plan on daily, weekly & monthly basis
 Stitching departs should also in contacts to each other that which style is running in which unit
 Stitching depart plan on their daily basis
 For a good planning the most important thing is that we should know how much capacity we have
in any unit, also the capability
 The repeat styles should run in last concerned unit
 It is also important that how much target we can achieve from any worker in a day & how much
any depart can produce
 They are also feeding the data also the targets of workers
 If any style gets delay due to any changing in garment then this delay accept the buyer But if any
delay cause due to us then the buyer can claim & we can pay the penalty That’s why all departs
should ready & avoid any delay by their sides

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AFTER IMPLEMENTATION OF SUSTAINABLITY PLAN

What is Brongo?

Brongo is one of the leading company producing washing & dyeing machines in Italy since three generations.
Durability, Efficiency, Sustainability are the three key factors for the company based in Florence. They will be
one of us during Denim Première Vision!

In BRONGO product and process sustainability is a concept that was already explored in all the directions trough
different and innovative type of machines where the technology is applied to the fashion:

 Washing machines saving water thanks to a unique and proprietary system for low liquor ratio;
 Washing machines saving energy thanks to HW/SW efficiency optimization;
 L4200: reduction of stones consumption with 20% less stone-wash time keeping the natural effect of
the process;
 B-CLOUD: a sustainable spray system to apply chemicals on garments with almost ZERO WATER
consumption. Then, the B-SAFE, an automatized airborne filtering system.

Because when they spray chemicals in a regular washing machine – as consequence of the volume of air that it’s
injected inside the drum – the products could come out contaminating the work area and the operators.

For this reason at BRONGO they have designed B-SAFE!

Thanks to an innovative “filter system” and a software control B-SAFE keep clean the airborne coming out from
the machine during the spray process preserving the health of the workers, the environment and optimizing
the process.

B-SAFE is the BRONGO ethical answer to a sustainable solution.

Being sustainable means also being conscious and the respect of the workers comes first.

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Time Study of New and Old Brongo Machine:

OLD BRONGO:
PROCESS WASH TEMPERATURE START END TOTAL DRAIN Unprocessed Water
TIME TIME time filling

WASH 5 mint 50c 9:46 9:52 6 mint 88 sec 3 mint & 6 3

mint mint

DESIZE 15 50c 10:02 10:17 15 88 sec 5 mint 3

mint mint mint
2 mint 50c 10:24 10:26 2 mint 88 sec - 3
mint
ENZYMES 5 mint 50c 10:28 10:33 5 mint 88 sec 2mint 3
mint
2 mint 50c 10:37 10:39 2 mint 88 sec 4
mint
WET 15 50c 10:44 10:59 15 88 sec - 3
STONNING mint mint mint

WASH & 2 mint 50c 11:05 11:07 2 mint 88 sec - 5

LOW mint
SPINNING 5 mint 50c 11:09 11:15 6 mint - 12 mint -
LOW 2 mint 50c 11:33 11:35 2 mint 88 sec - 5
SPINNING mint
5 mint 50c 11:37 11:42 5 mint - 5 mint -

 Process start at 9:40 and ends at 11:50

 1kg KDS and 2 kg LCN chemical use
 1kg KDS and 1kg enzymes
 6 bags of stone
 Total processing time 97 mint for this machine
 Total unprocessed time 33 mint for this machine

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NEW BRONGO

PROCESS WASH TEMPERATURE START END TOTAL DRAIN Unprocessed Water

TIME TIME time filling

WASH 5 mint 50c 9:50 9:55 5 mint 77 sec 3 mint 2

mint

DESIZE 15 50c 10:05 10:20 15 77 sec 4 mint 3

mint mint mint
2 mint 50c 10:23 10:25 2 mint 77 sec - 2
mint
ENZYMES 5 mint 50c 10:29 10:44 15 77 sec 2mint 2
mint mint
2 mint 50c 10:47 10:49 2 mint 77 sec 3
mint
WET 15 50c 10:52 11:07 15 77 sec - 2
STONNING mint mint mint

WASH & 2 mint 50c 11:12 11:14 2 mint 77 sec - 4

LOW mint
SPINNING 5 mint 50c 11:16 11:21 6 mint - 10 mint -

LOW 2 mint 50c 11:37 11:39 2 mint 77 sec - 4

SPINNING mint
5 mint 50c 11:40 11:46 6 mint - 4 mint -

 Process start at 9:50 and ends at 11:51

 1kg KDS and 2 kg LCN chemical use
 1kg KDS and 1kg enzymes
 6 bags of stone
 Total processing time 98 mint for this machine
 Total unprocessed time 23 mint for this machine

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IMPACT ON THE ORGANIZATIONAL SUCCESS

The sustainability drive held by the Soorty enterprises led them to become a very eco friendly
company. They got recognized as the first ones in Pakistan to install Monfort’s Eco Applicator making
them popular among the media, the government and most importantly, the customers. As the world is
moving towards a water deficit, this water saving economic step taken by the Soorty Enterprises has
opened new doors of success and popularity.

Not just that, this sustainability drive has made the production of denim more efficient and cost
effective as the same amount of denim is being washed and processed by Brongo in less time using
lesser volumes of water.

Following is an article taken from the internet (reference attached) about Soorty enterprises being
Pakistan’s first to install the Monfort’s Eco-Applicator.

“Soorty Denim, a leading, Karachi headquartered denim producer, has significantly slashed its denim finishing
costs as a result of the installation of Pakistan’s first Monforts Eco-Applicator.

The improvement has been verified by an in-depth sustainable production study carried out with Archroma, the
Switzerland based multi-national organization that was created from the textiles, paper and emulsions
businesses of chemicals giant Clariant.

Denim leader

Soorty is a major producer of denim fabric and jeans, now employing some 22,000 people across its operations,
which are centered around Karachi in Pakistan, and with a new, award-winning garment making-up department
and office in Bangladesh, as well as a design studio in Amsterdam. Among its prestigious clients are C&A, Calvin
Klein, Dorothy Perkins, Esprit, H&M, Lee, Mango, Tommy Hilfiger, Tom Tailor and Zara.

“Between 70-80% of our manufactured denim is being converted into finished pairs of jeans,” said General
Manager Alam Mazhari. This equates to over 2.4 million pairs of jeans a month, but Soorty has big plans for the
coming years. A systematic expansion programme saw the installation of a Monforts Montex stenter along with
a Monforts sanforizing range installed in 2006. A repeat order for both machines for a second finishing line
followed in 2009.

Today Soorty is in the process of commissioning its third Montex stenter and sanforizing range. Once fully
running, the company’s finished woven denim capacity will be increased to a monthly 5.5 million metres.

Eco-Applicator

The Eco-Applicator has been designed to enable the extremely precise application of functional finishes to
fabrics and dry them in an extremely efficient and compact single-stage unit. It is designed to offer significant
energy savings with reduced liquor application. The multi-functional and multi-purpose process is said to ensure
the lowest energy input for consecutive drying to its minimal liquor application.”

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CONCLUSION AND RECOMMENDATION

We experienced a lot from Soorty Enterprises Pvt Ltd.. During our visit. we came to know that how the different
activities take place, what are the procedures and how the work practically done.

The Soorty Enterprises Pvt Ltd. is on the way of progress. It has been earning profit for the last few years. The
management is professionally qualified and experienced.

Following is a list of our recommendations to them that they can implement on their location;

 Garments stocking racks and area should be more.

 Implementation of Standard Safety precautions should ensure.
 Proper centralized ventilation system should be install.
 Proper ambulance or first aid facility provide for both workers and management.
 Provide high quality mess facility for the management.
 Provide the proper ventilate canteen for the workers.
 Plant roof should be Reinforced concrete style for maintaining the internal temperature.
 Every month provide the healthy activity facility to workers for mind relaxation.
 Provide fire emergency activity in proper way.
 Proper exhaust system for ozone gas after the process.
 Provide the standard system to suck the fabric fluff in air department.
 Trolleys should be kept empty and properly managed after transferring the product to its place.

Soorty Enterprises Pvt Ltd product is of high quality. The demand of Soorty Enterprises Pvt Ltd products is
increasing with the passage of time. The company is expanding its capacity to satisfy the demands of their
customers. Management of the company is trying to improve more and more to earn profit and improve the
economy of the Pakistan.

THANK YOU FOR YOUR TIME!

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APPENDIX
Soorty denim is one of the fastest growing denim companies from Asia and highly focused on the Research and
Development activities. Based in Pakistan, they are a vertically integrated group with activities from Spinning to
Garment mfg. We spoke to the dynamic director of the company – Mrs. Nargis Soorty to find out how the
company is growing and the areas it is focusing on :

1. Please tell us something about Soorty Denim and its history.

The name Soorty is synonymous with garments since the last 25 years. Soorty Denim’s history is comparatively
newer. In fact, the first denim mill was built in 2005 with a view to cater its own garment needs. After the
success of the first mill, the second mill was also started to cater to the export of fabrics after a tremendous
increase in demand in global markets. We can now proudly claim our mill as about the largest one in Pakistan
with a capacity of 3.2 million meters per month. Out of our capacity of 3.2 million meters/month, around 1.4
million is used to produce 60,000 garments a day and the remaining 1.8 million is available for exports of fabric.

Soorty Denim has been the fastest growing denim mill in Pakistan since its inception. Soorty Enterprises Ltd. as a
whole employs more than 12,000 people in 12 units across Karachi. Our factories are certified by ISO 9001:2009,
BSCI, SA 8000, GOTS, OE 100 as well as WRAP.

Our vertical integration helps us achieve precision and the utmost excellence in the manufacturing of our
garments, right from its foundations. Going forward, we feel those companies who have garment and spinning
units under their own umbrella will be the ones succeeding long-term.

2. What are the main product strengths of your company? What kind of customer base do you cater to?

Our vision is to bring the right product in the market at the right time – to be proactive, ever-evolving, and
innovative and product development leaders. We are ready to experiment with anything new. Currently, we are
mainly doing bottoms, specializing in constructing high quality fabrics for use in ladies high stretch
jeggings. We experiment with different kinds of slubs and fibers such as modal, viscose and wool and weave
with techniques that add value and uniqueness to our product. Coupled with our European laundry and garment
expertise, we always have the extra edge when it comes to new developments. Our washing plant has
collaborated with an Italian laundry team of 6 technicians from Martelli who have provided 2 years’ worth
extensive training to our employees. The plant is one of its kinds in Asia and has been acclaimed by some buyers
as the best they have seen in the region. We take pride in our ability to produce any sort of wash currently in the
market.

Having our own RnD dept. in both denim and garment divisions also, Soorty denim fabrics benefits us
tremendously as both teams are constantly researching and working together to create new collections and
conjure new ideas. At the denim mill, our product development manager from Montebello works on our
seasonal collections and a different Italian designer works with us in the garment division. Washing expertise is
always available for help and experimentation during their research. The washing unit actually has its own RnD
dept. that helps in research for different types of washes. Having this whole vertical chain helps us work like a
single unit, stay connected and ultimately develop a superior product in a short timeframe.

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Soorty’s production model has the flexibility to produce for high street retailers as well as high fashion brands.
Our high end product coupled with cutting edge prices means companies ranging from Gstar, Diesel, Tommy
Hilfiger and Rock and Republic to Inditex Group, Esprit, Tom Tailor, C&A, Mango, Dorothy Perkins and a few
others all benefit from our services. We have been working with some of them for many years in order to forge
the strong relationships that now exist between us. We are currently exporting around 15 million jeans and
twills yearly.

3. We hear of some interesting products from Soorty for A/W13. Can you throw some light on it?

Soorty always brings something new to its fabric collection Coated denim fabrics Soorty, something
unconventional & rich in its values. Since denim is all about innovation, concepts & refined ideas in the right
direction, for our Autumn Winter collection 13/14 we have decided to experiment with avant-garde weaves as
well as employ the over-arching theme of sustainability.

To accommodate the large customer range, the collection is divided into groups ranging from Leather Coated,
Color denim, Weft Dyed to Back side coated and some special finishes.

In today’s world Denim is just not any regular fabric and that’s why our team has crafted & engineered the
products with special fibers & finishes. Yes, we have taken it to a next level by incorporating trendy fibers like
Tough Max, Thermolite, Wool, Recycle, Super Soft, Elasto-Soft, Dual Fx & T400.

One of the most significant elements of the collection is that we have added a special group named (Mile Stone)
which is one of the customers most loved fabrics of all time. It reflects Soorty’s true heritage, passion & devotion
to Denim.

4. Your company is an integrated manufacturer – from yarn to garments .How does it help you add
value for your customers?

We can proudly say that Soorty is the best example of vertically integrated manufacturer. We feel going forward
the success of Denim mills will be accredited to garment manufacturing. The backward integration of Soorty is
the perfect example.

Our research and development team in denim and garment division work in coordination to bring out new
collection and new ideas continuously, starting from yarn to washing techniques. Having the complete setup
under one umbrella is an advantage in today’s competitive world.

5.The denim industry grown very well in Pakistan over the last decade. What do you think are the
reasons for the same?

Pakistan is one of the largest producers of cotton. It has the short staple courser cotton ideal for denim fabric.
Besides, Pakistan was he pioneer in textile industry. During the quota free regime till 2005 Pakistan was one of
the duty free countries for EU. This gave the industry more and more opportunity to invest and prosper. We
have institutes and experience which give us an advantage over our neighboring countries. Almost 55% of our
export is textile.

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6. What are the trends emerging that you see for denim fabrics, garment styling, washes etc?

The emerging trends for the future seem to reflect on an emphasis on women’s denim fall winter 2013 new
fibers and weaving techniques. Denim is now becoming an integral part of every wardrobe and it seems as
though cleaner looks will become popular in concord with its new role as practical, every day clothing. The fabric
will also have a richer feel and look which will make it more versatile and appealing for not only work wear but
every other occasion too. Additionally, the washes will be focused towards greater sustainability and eco-
friendliness. Styling will vary from simple to more innovative cuts which will enhance the body contours giving a
slimmer silhouette.

7. Denim has undergone a massive transformation over the last two decades. In early 90s denim
used to be a 14.5 oz standard product and today all kinds of fibers, dyeing techniques, weaves
,finishes etc are used . How much future scope do you think is left to take these developments
further?

In the past decade science has advanced by leaps and bounds. There is so much more room for improvement. I
see a lot more new development in fiber and slubs. The weaving techniques will be adjusted accordingly to
having that cutting dge advantage of such versatile fabric. Making it not only sustainable but giving the comfort
and stretch needed in this fast pace lifestyle.

8. We have been hearing of talks between Indian and Pakistan ministries to alter duty structures so
that import of fabrics from either country into other becomes duty free. Do you think this could help
the denim industry?

This is going to be a key part in the interest of both the countries .Pakistan being a huge producer of textile and
India has a huge consumer market. We see a lot of opportunity with the right policy in place I think both
countries will have an advantage.

9. Europe is undergoing some difficult times. Do you think this will affect the consumption of denim
there?

Europe is going through a correction phase which will no doubt affect the economies everywhere. Denim
growth will be affected momentarily. The top retailer is planning to venture into new markets in BRIC which will
keep the steady growth.

10. How is Soorty adding value for customers in such difficult times?

Our team thrives on new findings and loves to experiment with new discoveries and for this reason we have a
monthly collection on our website which our customers have excess to and they can choose the fit or the wash
look for their new season. There is a tab for accessories as well. With only a click of the button a new product is
created. Soorty always delivers “value for money”. This is our policy and our customers have an advantage since
they work with us. Being a vertically integrated company our customer has the best lead time to new
developments and advantage over others to react to the demand and supply of today’s volatile fashion industry.

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References
http://www.soorty.com/company/

file:///C:/Users/HP/Downloads/soortycorporateprofile-120519121051-phpapp02.pdf

https://www.google.com/search?q=soorty+enterprises&sxsrf=ACYBGNTP2T05GdRororI8d3s7g0iAukRuw:15744
91031483&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwjspIiV3P_lAhXN8eAKHWv2A7cQ_AUoAXoECGoQAw&b
iw=1600&bih=708

https://www.denimsandjeans.com/interviews/pakistan-denim-mill-soorty-interview-july-2012/5468

http://webcache.googleusercontent.com/search?q=cache:http://beingstudent.com.pk/2017/05/11/industrial-
visit-to-soorty/

https://textilelearner.blogspot.com/2014/08/overview-of-denim-fabric-types-and.html

https://www.thefashionlaw.com/

https://www.innovationintextiles.com/soorty-denim-installs-pakistans-first-monforts-ecoapplicator/

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