Department of Yarn Manufacturing

Faculty of Engineering & Technology

National Textile University, Faisalabad

A thesis submitted to fulfill the partial requirement for the degree of Bachelors
of Science in Textile Engineering

Optimization of Modal and Dyeablepolypropylene

blended fabric alternative to 60-40 CVC knitted Fabric

Muhammad Usman (15-NTU-0125)

July, 2019

Supervisors:

Dr. Abdul Basit National Textile University Faisalabad

Dr. H. Shahzad National Textile University Faisalabad

Dr. Abdul Jabbar National Textile University Faisalabad

i
 DEDICATION
This thesis is dedicated to my parents and my teachers who supported me in
every path of my life and taught me that success is behind the seeking and
moral support me that nothing is difficult to do its just the matter of setting
your own mind and never try to follow the shortcut path in your life. The
shortcut may be easy is starting but it will lead you to the big difficult way.

ii
 CERTIFICATE
This thesis, written by Mr. Muhammad Usman under the direction of their
supervisors and approved by all the members of the thesis committee, has
been presented to and accepted by the Department of Yarn Manufacturing,
in fulfilment of the requirement of the degree of Bachelors of Science in
Textile Engineering.

________________________

Co-Supervisor

________________________

Co- Supervisor

________________________

Supervisor

_________________________

Head of Department

iii
 Acknowledgment
I am thankful to the Almighty, the Most Beneficent and the Most Merciful, who
enabled me to achieve this milestone. If all the oceans turn into ink and all
trees turn into pens even, then the praises of ALLAH SUBHANAHU WA
TA`ALA cannot be expressed.
We set our unfeigned and meek thanks before HIM, who created the
universe and bestowed upon the mankind with the knowledge as well as
wisdom to search for its secrets, favored and invigorated us with fortitude and
capability to aptly complete our search work and contribute a drop to the
existing ocean of scientific knowledge.
Trembling lips and wet eyes praise for the Prophet HAZRAT MUHAMMAD
(PBUH) who is forever a torch of guidance for the entire humanity. We feel
great pleasure in acknowledgment that all credit goes to our loving, sweet
parents for their amicable attitude and love immense orison, mellifluous
affection and well-wishing prayers.
The work present in this manuscript was accomplished under the supervision
of respected teacher Dr. Abdul Basit, Dr. Abdul Jabbar, Dr. Hafiz Shahzad.
His guidance, observant pursuit and scholarly comments enabled us to
efficiently complete my project work. He is constant source of inspiration
encouragement for us. So, we don’t have words to say thanks to him. May
Allah bless him with His knowledge, and he must serve this country and
especially this university.
Special thank are given to Mr. Manzoor, Muhammad Salman, Mr. Jameel,
Mr. Javaid, Mr. Shahid and all staff of yarn manufacturing lab who help me in
manufacturing of yarn sample in yarn manufacturing lab.

iv
 TABLE OF CONTENTS
DEDICATION ............................................................................................. ii

CERTIFICATE .......................................................................................... iii

Acknowledgment....................................................................................... iv

TABLE OF CONTENTS .............................................................................v

List of Figures ........................................................................................... ix

List of Tables..............................................................................................x

LIST OF ABBREVIATIONS ..................................................................... xii

Abstract…………………………………………………………………………..1

Chapter 1…… ........................................................................................... 2

INTRODUCTION ...................................................................................... 2

1.1 Background ......................................................................................... 2

1.2 Modal fiber .......................................................................................... 2

1.2.1 Structure of modal fibers ................................................................... 3

1.2.2 Physical properties ............................................................................ 3

1.2.3 Chemical properties .......................................................................... 4

1.2.4 Mechanical properties ....................................................................... 4

1.3 Dye able polypropylene ...................................................................... 4

1.3.1 Structure of dye able polypropylene .................................................. 4

1.4 Cotton fiber ......................................................................................... 5

1.4.1 Structure of cotton fibers ................................................................... 5

1.4.2 Physical properties of cotton ............................................................. 6

1.5 Polyester fibers ................................................................................... 6

1.5.1 Structure of polyester ........................................................................ 7

1.6 Fabric blends ...................................................................................... 7

v
1.6.1 Reasons to blend .............................................................................. 8

1.6.2 Advantages of blending ..................................................................... 8

1.7 Cotton-polyester blends (65/35 and 50/50) ......................................... 9

1.7.1 Properties of polyester cotton blend .................................................. 9

Chapter 2………………………………………………………………………..10

LITERATURE REVIEW………………………………………………………..10

Chapter 3.. .............................................................................................. 18

MATERIALS AND METHODS ................................................................ 18

3.1.1 Modal fiber ...................................................................................... 18

3.1.2 Dye able polypropylene fiber ........................................................... 19

3.1.3 Cotton fiber...................................................................................... 20

3.1.4 Polyester fiber ................................................................................. 21

3.2 Equipment ......................................................................................... 22

3.3 Design of experiment ........................................................................ 23

3.4 Method ............................................................................................ 24

3.4.1 Blow room ...................................................................................... 24

Basic operation in blow room line: .......................................................... 24

3.4.2 Carding ...................................................................................... 25

3.4.3 Drawing ...................................................................................... 25

3.4.4 Simplex ...................................................................................... 26

3.4.5 Ring frame ...................................................................................... 27

3.4.6 Autoconer ...................................................................................... 28

3.5 Fabric manufacturing ........................................................................ 29

3.5.1 Small knitting machine .................................................................... 29

3.5.2 Knitted fabric ................................................................................... 29

vi
3.6 Testing ............................................................................................ 30

3.6.1Testing equipment’s ....................................................................... 30

3.6.2 Single fiber strength tester (ASTM 3822) ........................................ 31

3.6.3 High volume instrument (HVI) Test ................................................. 32

3.6.4 Uster tensorapid 4 (ISO 2062, ASTM D1578) ................................. 32

3.6.5 Lea strength tester (ASTM D2256) ................................................. 33

3.6.6 Twist per inch (TPI) Test(ASTM D1422: 13) ..................................... 33

3.7 Design of experiment ........................................................................ 34

Chapter 4.. .............................................................................................. 35

RESULTS AND DISCUSSIONS ............................................................. 35

4.1 Fiber testing ...................................................................................... 35

4.1.1 (HVI test) ...................................................................................... 35

4.1.2 Single fiber strength test.................................................................. 36

4.2 Yarn testing ....................................................................................... 36

4.2.1 Twist per inch(TPI) test ................................................................... 36

4.2.2 Tensorapid test ............................................................................... 37

4.2.3Lea strength test .............................................................................. 39

4.3 Fabric testing .................................................................................... 40

4.3.1Gsm test ...................................................................................... 40

4.3.2 Air permeability test ......................................................................... 41

4.3.3 Thermal resistance test ................................................................... 42

4.3.4 Water vapor permeability test .......................................................... 43

4.3.5Bursting strength .............................................................................. 44

Chapter 5.. .............................................................................................. 46

CONCLUSIONS...................................................................................... 46

vii
REFERENCES .......................................................................................... I

Appendix A .............................................................................................. III

viii
 List of Figures
Figure 1.1: Modal fiber ........................................................................ 3

Figure 1.2: Cotton fiber........................................................................ 5

Figure 1.3: cross-sectional structure of the cotton ............................... 6

Figure 1.4: Polyester fiber ................................................................... 7

Figure 1.5: Structure of polyester fiber ................................................ 7

Figure 3.1: Flow chart........................................................................ 18

Figure 3.2: Modal fiber ...................................................................... 19

Figure 3.3: Dyeablepolypropylene fiber ............................................. 20

Figure 3.4: Structure of DPP ............................................................. 20

Figure 3.5: Cotton fiber...................................................................... 21

Figure 3.6: Polyester fiber ................................................................. 22

Figure 3.7: Single Fiber Strength Tester ........................................... 31

Figure 3.8: HVI Instrument ................................................................ 32

Figure 3. 9: Tensorapid ..................................................................... 32

Figure 3.10: TPI machine .................................................................. 33

Figure 4.1: TPI test ............................................................................ 37

Figure 4.2: Analysis of Tenacity of yarn ............................................ 38

Figure 4.3: Analysis of B-Force 1 ...................................................... 38

Figure 4.4: Analysis of Elongation ..................................................... 39

Figure 4.5: Analysis of Air permeability test of fabric ......................... 42

Figure 4.6: Analysis of Thermal resistances of fabric samples.......... 43

Figure 4. 7: Analysis of water vapor permeability of fabric samples .. 44

Figure 4.8: Bursting strength test ...................................................... 45

ix
 List of Tables
Table 1.1: Comparison of Properties ................................................... 2

Table 3.1: Properties of Modal fibre ................................................... 19

Table 3.2: Properties of Pakistani cotton. .......................................... 21

Table 3.3: Properties of polyester fiber. ............................................. 22

Table 3.4: Equipment specification .................................................... 23

Table 3.5: Design of Experiment ........................................................ 24

Table 3.6: Specification of Blow Room .............................................. 24

Table 3.7: Specification of Card ......................................................... 25

Table 3.8: Specification of Draw Frame ............................................. 26

Table 3.9: Specification of Simplex .................................................... 27

Table 3.10: Specification of Ring ....................................................... 27

Table 3.11: Specification of Auto Cone .............................................. 28

Table 3.12: Specification of Sample Knitting Machine ....................... 29

Table 3.13: Testing Equipments and standards ................................. 30

Table 3.14: Classifications of test ...................................................... 31

Table 4.1: HVI test Results ................................................................ 35

Table 4.2: Single fiber strength Test .................................................. 36

Table 4.3: TPI Test ............................................................................ 36

Table 4.4: Tensorapid Test ................................................................ 37

Table 4.5: Lea strength Test .............................................................. 39

Table 4.6: Blend Ratio Test ............................................................... 40

Table 4.7: GSM Test .......................................................................... 40

Table 4.8: Air Permeablity Test.......................................................... 41

Table 4.9:Thermal Resistance Test ................................................... 42

x
Table 4.10: Water permeability Test .................................................. 43

Table 4.11: Bursting Strength Results ............................................... 44

xi
 LIST OF ABBREVIATIONS
PC Polyester and cotton

CVC Chief Value Of Cotton

U% Unevenness

Mic Micronaire

SF Short Fiber

KM Kilo

xii
 Abstract
It’s a major issue that more cotton is required for making an end product.
Normally blend 60/40 cotton/polyester is used to make a shirt but also have
to face some problems when we deal with comfort properties. Polyester is
used with the blend of cotton because it has good abrasion resistant while on
the other cotton as a natural fiber having good moisture absorbency. But
there are also some disadvantages to using this blend. Like cotton fiber is
expensive and because of Natural fiber, it tore down fastly. Also, the
polyester is inexpensive and strong but also have some disadvantages as a
synthetic fiber. Not easily breathable, and it is temperature-sensitive. By
keeping all these issues in front of eyes I have done an experiment on this in
order to minimize these effects by using two different fibers Modal fiber and
Dye able polypropylene fiber. Modal fiber is used in place of cotton because
of its good resistance to moisture-wicking property and having good wet
Tenacity which is (2.5-8.0) gm/den. On the other hand, dye able
polypropylene is used because of high moisture transport and easy to wear.
Replacing the polyester because it does not have the effect of dying
migration. Samples of Modal and Dye able polypropylene is prepared and
one sample of CVC 60/40 is also prepared and the results are compared that
which sample having properties better than the CVC sample.

1
 Chapter 1.
INTRODUCTION
1.1 Background
No doubt cotton and polyester has been used for many years but with the
passage of time, it is noticed that somehow, they are not environment-
friendly. As the world is moving for environment-friendly products so there
was a need for raw material with the properties better than both of them. The
polyester manufacturing process is not environment-friendly process. While
cotton uses more water from its cultivation to end product. According to facts,
1800 gallons of water are consumed to make a simple pair of cotton jeans.
By considering these facts and some other facts many researchers worked
on a different type of raw material to improve properties and make an
environment-friendly product. Modal is the fiber whose moisture regain is
more than cotton which is about 11-14% while the moisture regains of cotton
is 8.5%. On the other hand, Dye able propylene is used because it has
excellent wicking ability and tenacity wet strength is more which is about 2.5-
7.0 gm/denier. In Table 0.1 properties of different fibers is given.
Table 0.1: Comparison of Properties
Dye able
Properties Cotton Polyester Modal
polypropylene
Moisture Regain 8.5% 0.4-0.8% 11-14% 0.3%
Tenacity (Dry) 3.00-4.00 2.50-8.00 3.9 2.50-7.00
Tenacity(wet) 4.00-5.00 2.500-8.00 2.5 2.500-7.00
Elongation% 8 11-3 15 21
Tensile strength
287-800 400-600 400-450 550-700
(MPa)
Elasticity 3-10% 19-23% 15-30% 17-21%
Density
1.5-1.6 1.4 1.4 0.5-1
(g/cm3)
1.2 Modal fiber
Modular is a sort of rayon, a semi-engineered cellulose fiber made by turning
spinning cellulose, for this situation frequently from beech trees. Modal is
utilized alone or with different filaments (cotton or spandex) in clothing and
household items, for example, night robe, underwear, bathrobes, towels, and
bedsheets. The term modulus refers to protection from stress and strain.
HWM implies that it deformation twisting when wet. HWM rayon, which is
now and again referred to as superior (HP) or Polynosic rayon, looks like

2
cotton more than it does viscose. Modular is a European nonexclusive name
for HWMrayon.

Figure1.1: Modal fiber

1.2.1 Structure of modal fibers

The structure of Modal fiber isn't so firmly stuffed because of that air
penetrability and water vapor porousness impact is more. As the dampness
recover of the modular fiber is more that is the reason it’s wet quality is more
when contrasted with viscose.
1.2.2 Physical properties
• High breaking strength
• Fabric made from modal fibers is shrinkage resistance.
• Modal is very soft, shiny,natural and silky feel than mercerized cotton.
• Stone deposits from firm water never set down on the fabric structure.
• Modal fabrics should be washed at a slighter temperature only.
• Modal fabrics can be often ironed after washing like cotton.
• Modal fiber is dimensionally constant and do not reduce in their size,
or get away from their shape.
• The aging is eliminated and the molecular chains are not shortened as
much.
• HWM fibers have longer polymer chains and a more crystalline
structure, but the degree of polymerization is still less than 1000.
• HWM rayon have high strength from 3.0 to 5.7 g\d (dry) and 1.9 to 4.3
g\d(wet).
• The specific gravity of HWM is 1.51,similar to that of viscose.
• Moisture regain is 11 to 14%.

3
 • Resilience is better than viscose.
1.2.3 Chemical properties
• Conductivity to warmth and power is great.
• A long introduction to daylight causes some loss of solidarity.
• Resistance to solid acids is poor.
• Resistance to a solid base is incredible.
• Resistance against oxidizing operators and solvents is great.
• Treated with 39 to 50 of carbon disulfide to shape cellulose xanthate.
• Mixed with 2.8% sodium hydroxide to shape thick arrangement.
• No aging procedure and separated for contaminations.
1.2.4 Mechanical properties
The modular yarn gives the greatest quality and most extreme stretching
(14.78) %. After modular yarn, bamboo yarn gives a little higher quality than
a bamboo yarn with prolongation of 13.87%. Cotton gives moderately lower
quality out of every single examined yarn and shows less lengthening
(4.19%). Viscose and bamboo yarns show more quality than cotton however
lower than modular yarns. If there should be an occurrence of mixes,
modular: viscose yarn gives higher quality (20.03 CN/tex) trailed by modular:
bamboo mix with stretching of 14.6%. Modular: cotton gives lower steadiness
with lower stretching (11.43%) as cotton fiber is a firm fiber having
lengthening of just 6.6%. Besides, factual examination (single direction
investigation of change (ANOVA)) demonstrates that the quality of yarns of
modular and its mixes have values essentially unique as p-esteem is under
0.05.
1.3 Dye able polypropylene
Polypropylene was imagined coincidentally in 1951 by two researchers
named J. Paul Hogan and Robert L. Banks. A couple of years after the fact, it
was reproduced and consummated by Italian scientific expert Professor
Giulio Natta. This current plastic's prominence detonated, which impacted
across the board creation for organizations in Europe. Polypropylene is
considered a superhero in the world of plastic. The material is an excellent
insulator and can be engineered into a variety of different products or melted
down and recycled into something new. The properties of polypropylene
include:
• Wards off water
• Eco-friendly
• Can be recycled
• Chemical resistant
1.3.1 Structure of dye able polypropylene
Polypropylene has a place with the gathering of polyolefin’s and is partially
crystalline and non-polar. Its properties are comparative to polyethylene;
however, it is somewhat harder and more warmth safe. It is a white, precisely

4
rough material and has a high compound opposition. The linear structure is
dependent on the monomer CnH2n.
1.4 Cotton fiber
Cotton is a delicate, feathery staple fiber that develops in a boll, or defensive
case, around the seeds of the cotton plants of the variety Gossypium in the
mallow family Malvaceae. The fiber is practically unadulterated cellulose.
Under common conditions, the cotton bolls will build the dispersal of the
seeds. The fiber is regularly spun into yarn or string and used to make a
delicate, breathable material. The utilization of cotton for texture is known to
date to ancient occasions; parts of cotton texture dated to the fifth thousand
years BC has been found in the Indus Valley Civilization. Albeit developed
since relic, it was the creation of the cotton gin that brought down the
expense of generation that prompted it is across the board use, and it is the
most broadly utilized regular fiber material in apparel today.

Figure 1.2: Cotton fiber

1.4.1 Structure of cotton fibers

Cotton fibers have a febrile structure. The entire cotton fiber contains 88 to
96.5% of cellulose, the rest are non-cellulosic polysaccharides comprising up
to 10% of the absolute fiber weight. The essential divider in develops
filaments is just 0.5-1 µm thick and contains about half of cellulose. Non-
cellulosic constituents comprise of gelatins, fats and waxes, proteins and
normal colorants. The optional divider, containing around 92-95% cellulose,
is worked of concentric layers with alternatively formed turns. The layers
comprise of thickly pressed rudimentary fibrils, composed into smaller scale
fibrils and full-scale fibrils. They are held together by solid hydrogen bonds.
The lumen shapes the focal point of the strands. Cotton is made essentially
out of the polysaccharide cellulose. Cotton cellulose comprises of crystalline
fibrils changing in intricacy and length and associated by less sorted out

5
undefined areas with a normal proportion of around 66% crystalline and 33%
non-crystalline material, contingent upon the strategy for assurance.
1.4.2 Physical properties of cotton
• Easy to wear
• Cellulosic fiber
• Produced using the cotton boll
• Assimilates water and "relaxes"
• Moderate to dry
• Opposes friction based electricity develop
• Wrinkles effectively
• Can withstand warmth, cleansers, and bleach
• About 20% stronger when wet than dry
• Will shrink except if treated
• Can be harmed by

Figure 1.3: cross-sectional structure of the cotton

• mildew
• Damage by delayed exposure to sunlight
• Long-staple cotton.

1.5 Polyester fibers

Polyester is a class of polymers that contain the ester utilitarian gathering in
their fundamental chain. As a particular material, it most regularly alludes to a
sort called polyethylene terephthalate (PET). Polyesters incorporate normally
happening synthetic substances, for example, in the cutting of plant fingernail
skin, just as synthetics, for example, polybutyrate. Normal polyesters and a
couple of manufactured ones are biodegradable; however, most engineered
polyesters are definitely not. The material is utilized broadly in apparel.
Polyester strands are now and again spun together with common filaments to
deliver a fabric with mixed properties. Cotton-polyester mixes (polycot) can
be solid, wrinkle and tear-safe, and diminish contracting. Engineered strands
utilizing polyester have high water, wind and ecological opposition contrasted
with plant-inferred filaments. They are less fireproof and can dissolve when

6
lighted. Polyester mixes have been renamed in order to recommend their
similitude or even prevalence over common filaments.

Figure 1.4: Polyester fiber

1.5.1 Structure of polyester

Polyester is right now characterized as: "Long-chain polymers synthetically
made out of in any event 85 percent by weight of an ester and a dihydric
liquor and a terephthalic corrosive. Polyester is a smooth fiber with a
significant measurement. The fiber distance across ordinarily goes from 12-
25 micrometers (10-15 deniers). The undyed fiber is marginally grayish and
halfway straightforward. The filaments are roughly 35% crystalline and 65%
undefined.

Figure 1.5: Structure of polyester fiber

1.6 Fabric blends

As you can presumably figure, fabric blends are made when at least two
various types of strands are consolidated together to make another kind of
material with one of a kind properties. Consistently, blended fabrics have
been created to take into account explicit needs, such as improving the
surface, solidness, feel of the material, or notwithstanding decreasing the
expense of attire generation. Today there are several fabric blends
accessible in the market, however, the more famous blends for printed attire
are cotton-polyester (65/35 and 50/50), polyester-cotton-rayon (50/25/25)
and polyester-spandex (85/15). Here we are using cotton-polyester blend for
comparison.

7
1.6.1 Reasons to blend
The significant purpose behind blending strands is to deliver better execution.
By blending we can improve the attributes that are poor in one fiber, by
blending it with another sort of fabrics that exceed expectations in those
qualities For instance polyester when blended with cotton, the resultant fabric
has moderate absorbency which is nearly nil in polyester. To improve the
surface, hand or feel and presence of fabrics blending of fleece strands with
polyester delivers the ideal surface for fitting materials. Thick, when blended
with cotton, improves its luster and delicateness and consequently upgrades
its appearance. To diminish the cost this is once in a while one of the
significant explanations behind the blending of filaments. The expense of a
pricey fabric can regularly be decreased by blending with another shoddy
fiber. For instance, costly fleece is blended with less expensive polyester to
decrease the expense.
To create cross-colored impacts Fibers with dissimilar to color proclivity are
consolidated and colored together so it produces fascinating cross colors
impacts as one fiber take up the shading and the different holds its unique
shading. To improve the turning, weaving and completing proficiency, for
instance, the turning effectiveness of polyester is improved by blending with
cotton to deliver spun yarns. Blending might be done previously or during
turning. It tends to be done at the opening and blending stage. in spite of the
fact that it encourages impeccable blending it presents issues thus it isn't
very useful. Indeed, even at the fragment stage overdrawing or meandering
or turning casings blending should be possible. Blending overdrawing edge is
most ordinarily utilized today. Fragments of various filaments are joined
overdrawing casing relying upon blend proportion. They are attracted to get
solitary silver which is later handled into yarn.
1.6.2 Advantages of blending
• At the point when two unique kinds of filaments are blended, the
properties of these two distinct strands are synergized. For example,
in the blend of cotton and polyester, cotton gives the receptiveness
and polyester gives the quality.
• Blending is done to create a fabric, which is efficient by
consolidating the stylish solace properties of the common filaments
with the simple consideration and quality properties of engineered
strands.
• Blending additionally furnishes the fabric's lightweight with all
alluring characteristics. Improving spinning, weaving and finishing
proficiency and the consistency of item.

8
1.7 Cotton-polyester blends (65/35 and 50/50)
The cotton-polyester blend is adaptable and is utilized to make everything
from bedding to shirts. Since polyester doesn't therapist or change shape as
cotton does, this blend is simpler to wash and dry. Furthermore, on account
of the cotton part in the blend, pieces of clothing produced using cotton-
polyester are increasingly breathable contrasted with unadulterated polyester
items. Polyester and cotton are critical materials in the fabric and article of
clothing making ventures in light of the fact that every various valuable quality.
Poly-cotton blends are made by utilizing mechanical weavers and weaving
machines consolidate the two filaments; blend proportions regularly run from
65 percent cotton and 35 percent polyester to a 50-50 blend. While these
blends may have a few cons, the unmistakably increasingly ample aces imply
that poly-cotton is perfect for aesthetically disapproved craftspeople who
appreciate making their very own garments, outfits and furniture covers.
1.7.1 Properties of polyester cotton blend
The Low Down: 50/50 blend shirts will be truly similar in feel and fit to
standard 100% cotton tees, however, they are significantly more solid,
wrinkle-safe, and hold their shading and shape better through washing.
They're likewise going to be estimated at roughly a similar cost. The main
drawback is that they don't wick sweat great, it may remain in the shirt until it
dissipates.
• Flexible and durable and moderate
• More color fastening (holds its shading through perspiring and washing)
than 100% cotton tees, yet 100% polyester never loses its shading.
• Keeps up shape much superior to 100% cotton, however worse than
100% polyester.
• Milder and lighter feel than 100% cotton, however not gentler and lighter
than 100% polyester.
• Less powerless to intemperate contracting, pilling, wrinkles, and static

9
 Chapter 2.
LITERATURE REVIEW
Comfort properties are the main target in almost every industry nowadays. As
the utilization of more cotton and polyester cause many dangerous effects to
health so it is required to make a product from the fibers that are easy to use
and having good properties in end-use. In order to do so many works is
already done on this. Many articles are studied in order to find out how much
work is already done on these types of experiments. The conclusions of
every article are written below
The Author’s describes the part propensity of viscose and modal fibers in
watery soluble base arrangements of LiOH, NaOH, KOH, and TMAH was
examined. The viscose fibers split up to 5–7 fibrils, on the other hand, model
fiber split up to 2–4 fibrils relying upon the salt sort and focus. The febrile
structure of lyocell empowers it to part more (15–20 fibrils) than thick and
modular strands. Part happens where the inner worry of fiber is high because
of various soluble base avoid circulation inside the fiber. The part test
couldn't be accomplished for gooey and modular strands somewhere in the
range of 1 and 5M centralization of NaOH and TMAH arrangements because
of breakage of strands during the test. Over 5 M focus, no split can be
watched due to even conveyance of soluble base inside fiber[1].
Vertical wicking model was created dependent on Darcy's law. In the model,
penetrability coefficient, slender weight, and texture thickness were utilized
as the key parameters to depict wicking conduct. For the recreation and test,
fiber type and texture structure were picked as factors. In an exceptionally
permeable sew texture, gravitational impact during the wicking procedure
was critical. The higher the fine weight was, the higher was the wicking rise.
Surface wetting pressure, i.e., the explicit liquid proclivity of material, was
recently characterized to portray diverse fine weights in different sorts of
texture structures. The model, the procedure and the outcomes could give
knowledge into texture configuration to deliver texture with an ideal wicking
execution[2].
In this examination, warm properties of provoking textures sewed with cotton
and modular yarns were researched for sportswear. Cotton stays by a long
shot the most significant common fiber because of good water vapor and air
porousness, and hygienic properties and modular is a prepared bio-based
material produced using reconstituted cellulose from the beech tree. In
numerous ways, modular acts like cotton, however, it additionally has some
noteworthy points of interest over cotton. The point of this investigation was
to produce sewed textures with better solace properties by using the
astounding qualities of these filaments. In the first place, short-staple yarns
were spun having straight densities Ne 30/1, and Ne 40/1.Then, arouse

10
sewed textures were delivered with distinctive snugness factor with these
yarns and the warm solace parameters of textures were estimated on Laser
Comp. model Fox 314. The outcomes demonstrated that modular provoke
textures are viewed as favored contender for hotter atmosphere sportswear,
especially because of their lower warm obstruction, higher warm conductivity,
and higher air porousnes[3].
The goal of this paper is to outline later systematic and exploratory
examinations of the dynamic mechanical properties of carbon
nanofiber/polypropylene composites. For this situation, the carbon nanofibers
are vapor developed carbon strands (VGCF) which are developed chemically
from vaporous hydrocarbons utilizing metallic impetus particles. The
mechanical damping and capacity modulus of these materials are estimated
by utilizing a Dynamic Mechanical Thermal Analyzer (DMTA). For the
expository model, the flexible viscoelastic correspondence guideline is
utilized to change the versatile Halpin–Tsai conditions to complex structure.
The model is then approved for the forecast of the damping and firmness of
carbon nanofiber/polypropylene composites having a special fiber direction
toward infusion. Great understanding among estimated and anticipated
stockpiling esteems is found over the scope of fiber volume divisions
researched. Despite the fact that anticipated and estimated damping qualities
are in a similar range, the anticipated qualities don't demonstrate the
deliberate abatement in damping with expanding fiber volume portion.
Expectations demonstrate that composites having extremely low fiber
viewpoint proportions ought to have higher damping than those having high
fiber angle proportions and that the carbon nanofiber angle proportions of
around l/d=19 are in the range which yields the most elevated anticipated
damping[4].
This examination shows the likelihood of upgrading the antibacterial
usefulness and shade printing properties of cotton/polyester mixes (50/50
and 35/65) in one stage. Consideration of chitosan (10 g/kg), choline chloride
(15 g/kg), triclosan subsidiary (20 g/kg), hyperbranched poly amide-
amine/silver or zinc oxide nanoparticles (HBPAA/Ag-NP's crossbreed or
HBPAA/ZnO-NP's mixture – 20 g/kg) into a shade print detailing pursued by
printing and microwave restoring at 386W for 5 min outcomes in an
improvement in antibacterial action and shade printability. It was additionally
noticed that, in all cases, the G+ve (S. aureus) microscopic organisms are
increasingly defenseless to the activity of the immobilized antibacterial
specialists than the G−ve microbes (E. coli). The functionalized color prints
showed adequate antibacterial movement even after 20 washing cycles.
Methods of connections were proposed, and surface adjustment was likewise
affirmed by SEM and EDX examination[5].
The expanding request for cotton and low generation rate to satisfy the world
prerequisites helped the creation of recovered cellulose-based strands. The
reason for this work was to look at the exhibition and solace properties of

11
recovered cellulose filaments. For this reason, cotton, viscose, modal,
bamboo, furthermore, viscose strands were taken. The complete ratio of all
fiber and 50:50 mixes of modal mixed with cotton fiber and recovered
filaments were taken. Ordinary yarn of count 20 tex was made and after that
plain woven textures were made. The warp wise and weft-wise ductile and
tear strength were recorded. What's more, a trial of air penetrability,
dampness the board, warm obstruction test, and water vapor porousness
was executed. It is discovered that the 100% modal textures give higher
mechanical and comfort properties. If there should be an occurrence of mixes,
modal: viscose (50:50) gives higher mechanical and comfort properties in
woven textures[6].
In this examination, they researched the mechanical and warm properties of
PP composites strengthened with warmth dried LCNFs. The copolymer EBC
was pre-aggravated with an LCNF suspension to acquire an ace cluster. In
the meantime, the water in the LCNF suspension was dissipated by warming.
The last composites were delivered by the aggravating of the ace group and
PP. The development of collections of the LCNFs couldn't be forestalled
totally. Be that as it may, it was decreased by the two-advance procedure
embraced in this investigation. The expansion of the LCNFs not just
improved the flexural firmness of PP/EBC mixes yet additionally expanded
the effect quality of the composites with the end goal that it was twice as high
as that of the wood flour composites for a filler substance of 10 wt%. The
expansion of wood flour and the LCNFs both expanded the crystallization
temperature and crystallization rate of PP. In any case, the expansion was
more noteworthy in the instance of the LCNFs than on account of wood flour.
Then again, the expansion of wood flour and the LCNFs had no noteworthy
impact on the liquefying conduct of PP[7].
This paper examines the impact of texture's structure on the warm and
dampness the board properties of weaved textures made of two sorts of
yarns with thermo-directing impact: Coolmax® and Outlast®. The
fundamental reason for this investigation was the determination of the most
sufficient texture, to be utilized in summer and winter sportswear. The
outcomes showed that a few properties, for example, warm properties,
dissemination capacity, air, and water vapor penetrability are affected by both
crude material sort and sewed structure parameters. Wicking capacity is
affected to a more noteworthy degree by the sewed structure, while the
drying capacity is essentially dictated by crude material furthermore, to a
lesser degree by the sewed structure parameters. Fabricis favored
competitors for hotter atmosphere sportswear, especially due to their lower
warm opposition, higher warm conductivity and absorptivity, air and water
vapor porousness. When considering sportswear for a colder climate,
Coolmax based structures appear to be the best decision. These discoveries
are a significant apparatus in the structure of a sportswear item custom-made

12
to the distinctive body territories warm and dampness the board
necessities[8].
In this examination, the dimensional, physical and thermal wear properties of
the plain knitted fabric produced using 50/50 mix of modal fiber in microfiber
structure with cotton fiber are contrasted and those of the comparative fabric
produced using 50/50 mix of customary modal viscose fiber with cotton fiber
and produced using 100 % cotton fiber. All the fabric types are delivered in
three distinctive line lengths. The slight contrasts among the fabric types are
seen regarding the fasten thickness results and the dimensional constants
determined in the completely loosened upstate. In the completely loosened
up express, the dimensional K estimations of the modular microfiber mixed
weaved textures are observed to be all the more intently take after those of
the cotton textures rather than those of the ordinary modular fiber mixed
textures. The least texture thickness and blasting quality outcomes are gotten
for the modular microfiber mixed textures. The modular microfiber mixed
textures uncover lower air porousness than the customary modular fiber
mixed textures and higher air porousness than the cotton textures. It is
likewise seen from the warm solace results that the modular microfiber mixed
textures have the least warm opposition and the most noteworthy warm
absorptivity esteems. The warm conductivity consequences of the modular
microfiber mixed textures are lower than those of the cotton textures and
higher than those of the traditional modal fiber mixed fabric Due to the most
astounding warm absorptivity esteems, the modular microfiber mixed
textures furnish the coolest inclination when contrasted and the other two
fabric types[9].
In high dynamic sportswear, the dampness the board is of extraordinary
worry because of a high measure of perspiration age. Dampness the
executive's properties of plated weaved sportswear have been contemplated
by taking different mixes of profiled polyester fiber yarn on the internal and
external side of the texture. Dampness the board analyzer (MMT) was
utilized to assess by and large dampness the executives limit and different
dampness the executives' lists. Fluid dampness transmission ordinary to
texture plane and inside texture plane from a limitless fluid repository was
explored utilizing M/K GATS. The impacts of the fiber shape factor of the
internal and external side of texture on different dampness the
executives’properties have been assessed. Examination of fluctuation
(ANOVA) was utilized to check factual criticalness everything being equal.
Texture, having the fiber of higher shape factor in the blend, saw to have
better dampness the board with the bigger wetting span, higher one-way
transport limit, and speedy retention rate anyway the impact is increasingly
articulated when it is put in alongside skin layer[10].
The coloring of unmodified polypropylene (PP) filaments by the weariness
strategy are described by a low fondness of colors to the PP and by the low
colorist parameters (a low shading quickness, a low washing, and dry-

13
cleaning speed) in the colored filaments. The arrangement of polypropylene/
polyester (PP/PES) mix of filaments is intriguing from the purpose of dye
ability in these strands from dye bath. Polyester's added substance in PP grid
is capable to fix scatter colors and increment the take-up of the color from a
shower. This paper displays the impact of two polyesters (polyethylene
terephthalate e PET and polybutylene terephthalate e PBT) in the energy of
coloring of PP/PES mix strands with scatter color C.I. Scatter Blue 56. The
color take-up, coloring rate constants, dissemination coefficients and
enactment vitality of PP/PES mix filaments were characterized[11].
Arrangements of ultrahigh atomic weight polymers such as polyethylene in a
generally non-unpredictable dissolvable are expelled through an opening at
steady focus through the opening and cooled to shape the first gel of
uncertain length. The principal gels are removed with an unstable dissolvable
to frame a subsequent gel and the subsequent gel is dried to shape a low
porosity xerogel. The main gel, second gel or xerogel, or a mix, are extended.
Among the items reachable are polyethylene filaments of more noteworthy
than 30 or even 40 g/denier steadiness and of modulus more noteworthy
than 1000 or even 1600 or 2000 g/denier[12].
Dye able polypropylene (PP) filaments for garments having improved
preparing properties, for example, turning properties, sewing or weaving
properties, dye ability are given, which filaments are acquired by having (an)
a 5-20C alkyl phosphate salt or (b) a blend thereof with an adduct of ethylene
oxide to a 6-20C unsaturated fat in a extent of the adduct of 1-90% by weight,
joined onto dye able PP filaments acquired by mixing a copolymer of an
aminoalkyl acrylate with ethylene with a PP furthermore, doing dissolve
turning utilizing the mix as at least one segment of the subsequent dyeable
PP filaments, the measure of (an) or (b) joined onto the filaments in wording
of % by weight of the filaments being balanced in order to fulfill the
accompanying articulation [13].
Uncovered is a strategy for making a woven or weaved texture with a
fantastic water change capacity, including the Steps of manufacturing a
woven or sewed texture having a twofold weave structure by utilization of a
polyethyleneterephthalate (PET) fiber for one Surface of said texture and a
partitioned PET/ nylon-conjugated fiber for the other Surface of Said texture,
what's more, Subjecting Said texture to a weight reduction completing
procedure. Since the texture has a void size contrast between the Surfaces
thereof as per the weight reduction wrapping up process, it can remotely
release, at a high Velocity, dampness assimilated in that[14].
This investigation analyzes the fluid dampness move properties of a chose
gathering of heat-safe work wear textures utilizing an interest wet ability test.
The Gravimetric Absorbent Testing System methodology is adjusted and
created to evaluate the impacts of wicking wrap up treatment and
hygroscopic filaments on work wear textures. Not at all like the basic vertical
technique for estimating wicking, has the system embraced in this

14
examination produced educational outcomes for dampness the board
qualities and wearer solace of material materials. The retention limit, prompt
rate of retention, and vanishing/assimilation proportion of five unique heat-
safe work wear textures are resolved and talked about. Results demonstrate
that the wicking treatment of aramid textures detectably builds their rate of
retention however does not influence their assimilation limit and water vapor
ingestion. The fire safe rayon mixes have improved vapor assimilation
properties yet antagonistically influenced fluid dampness the board properties.
Since the cotton texture demonstrates the most noteworthy level of residual
water after the dissipation test, an article of clothing made of this fabric[15].
Uncovered is a strategy for making a woven or weaved texture with a
fantastic water change capacity, including the Steps of manufacturing a
woven or sewed texture having a two-fold weave structure by utilization of a
polyethyleneterephthalate (PET) fiber for one Surface of said texture and a
partitioned PET/ nylon-conjugated fiber for the other Surface of Said texture,
what's more, Subjecting Said texture to a weight reduction completing
procedure. Since the texture has a void size contrast between the Surfaces
thereof as per the weight reduction wrapping up process, it can remotely
release, at a high Velocity, dampness assimilated in that[16].
In this paper, it is studied that what is the effect on properties when the modal
fiber is blended with the cotton and regenerated fibers. For the experiment,
modal, cotton, viscose, bamboo fibers are taken and blend of each fiber and
according to our requirement 50:50 blend of modal cotton and modal
regenerated fiber is taken, the yarn is made up of 20 counts and then
prepared plain fabric woven. It is clearly notified that 100% of modal fiber
gives excellent mechanical properties. Tensile strength, air permeability, and
water vapor permeability is enough good while on the other hand by studying
all the blends it is notified that the blend of the modal: viscose (50:50) gives
good mechanical and comfort properties like hand feel, wearing, etc[16].
Cotton (cellulose) and thick (recovered cellulose) filaments are regularly
connected in attire material textures. On account of one of kind hemp
(lignocellulose) fiber properties and its natural advantages (biodegradability),
these days hemp is reintroduced as a wellspring of filaments for attire
material applications. So as to comprehend the warmth move marvels
through the cellulose material textures, the warm properties and the
properties firmly identified with the warm conduct of textures (porosity and air
porousness) were explored. Another testing technique was connected
effectively for assurance of the warm properties of the textures. The
outcomes acquired show that warmth move through the textures is
profoundly identified with both slim structure and surface attributes of yarns
(a constant bundle of short filaments), just as air volume dissemination inside
the textures[17].

15
In this exploration, warm properties of 1×1 rib textures sewn by utilizing
different yarns of various properties were researched with all subtleties. The
referenced yarn properties were yarn check, yarn curve, and brushing
process. The warm opposition, warm absorptivity, warm conductivity, water
vapor porousness of tests were estimated with the guide of Alambeta and
Permetest gadgets individually. The aftereffects of the tests were assessed
factually and the significance levels of the connection between the deliberate
parameters were resolved. It is seen that yarn properties like yarn check,
yarn wind and brushing procedure of cotton have influenced distinctive warm
solace properties of 1×1 rib sewed textures. While the yarn bend and yarn
tally increment warm opposition esteem lessening and water vapor
penetrability esteem increment. The brushing procedure has a similar impact
on warm properties[18].
The dimensional, some physical and warm solace properties of the plain
weaved textures having modular thick microfibers in three diverse fasten
lengths are examined in correlation with the comparative textures having
customary modular thick filaments. The textures produced using microfibers
and ordinary strands display distinctive dimensional properties. The join
thickness results and the dimensional constants determined at the
completely loosened up state uncover that the textures with microfibers tend
to have lower shrinkage inclination than those with ordinary strands. The
factual outcomes demonstrate that the fiber type (or fiber fineness) and the
fasten length influence some physical properties and the majority of the warm
solace properties of the textures altogether. The blasting quality estimations
of the textures with microfibers are seen to be marginally higher than those of
the textures with regular strands. Be that as it may, the distinction between
the blasting quality estimations of these textures is observed to be factually
irrelevant. The textures with microfibers uncover lower thickness and air
penetrability and, higher pilling inclination than those with traditional strands.
It is likewise seen from the warm solace results that the textures produced
using microfibers have higher warm conductivity, warm absorptivity and most
extreme warmth motion esteem and, lower warm opposition and warm
diffusivity esteems. In view of the higher warm absorptivity and most extreme
warmth transition esteems, the textures from microfibers furnish cooler
inclination when contrasted and those from customary strands[19].
Fiber industriousness, stretching, length, fineness, and shading were
estimated for 5 Gossypium barbadense L. what's more, 37 C. hirsutum L.
fiber tests. These examples were spun into 12-and 27-tex yams on a ring
framework and into 27-tex yarns on an open-end framework; yam
industriousness was resolved. Fiber industriousness and length were
decidedly connected with yam diligence. No connections of fiber fineness
with the perseverance of 27-tex yams were identified. A considerable
segment of the variety in 27-tex yarn persistence was owing to varieties in
fiber diligence and length[20].

16
Polypropylene (PP) nanocomposites with three diverse dirt loadings were set
up by arrangement blending method. The arrangement blended
nanocomposites were expelled to strands utilizing a solitary screw extruder.
The PP nanocomposite strands got were consistently colored with three
particular scatter colors at various degrees of concealing. The improved dye
ability of PP nanocomposite filaments was described by spectrophotometric
estimations. Attractive wash, light and container quickness results were
additionally accomplished. Mechanical properties and level of crystallinity of
nanocomposite strands with various mud loadings were likewise
researched[21].

17
 Chapter 3.
MATERIALS AND METHODS
Different blend ratios of Modal fiber and Dye able polypropylene fibers were
used in order to compare with the 60/40cvc which is also made as a sample.
Count of 30/1 is made. A careful selection of materials and methods was
made according to the required research. First of all, calculated blends of
Cotton/polyester and Modal/Dye able polypropylene were made and spun
into yarns. Then the knitted fabric was manufactured with the help of
sampling machine and then was tested via different methods.

Sampling Blow room Card Drawing

Ring
Testing Knitting Roving
spinning

Figure 3.1: Flow chart

Different type of materials was used for experimentation of this research. The
material used for this experimentation is given below
➢ Modal fiber
➢ Dye able polypropylene fiber
➢ Cotton fiber
➢ Polyester fiber
3.1.1 Modal fiber
Modal fiber is used as a blend with dye able polypropylene fiber because
Modal fiber has high resistance to shrinkage, high breaking strength, and
other comfort properties better than mercerized cotton. Modal uses just
beech wood, in this way it is an assortment of thick rayon; a nonexclusive
name for altered thick rayon fiber that has high tirelessness and high wet
modulus. For this study 1.3 denier, high wet modulus modal fiber was used.
Modal is a wood mash based cellulosic fiber, made out of unadulterated
wooden chips from the beech tree, actually as the European Schneider

18
Zelkova3.2 tree. While gooey rayon can be acquired from the wood mash
from various trees,

Figure 3.2: Modal fiber

Table 0.1: Properties of Modal fibre

Sr.No Parameter Units Values

1 Density g/cm3 1.53

2 Moisture regain % 11.8

3 GPD (dry) 2.2-4.0

Tenacity
(wet) 3.8-5.0

4 Dry (%) 7.0

Breaking Elongation
Wet (%) 8.5

5 Work of rupture (mN/Tex) 11.5

6 Initial modulus (mN/Tex) 13300

3.1.2 Dye able polypropylene fiber

Dye able polypropylene fiber is used in this experiment because of its
comfort properties and not the bad smell of sweat produced. This has better
thermal insulating properties. Fibers using conventional disperse dyes makes

19
the fibers more attractive for apparel end-uses. This is due to its lightweight
and comfort, cottony softness, easy-care, easy wear, moisture, durability,
breathability, thermal insulation, and stain resistance. It is difficult to dye
polypropylene because of its moisture regain which is 0%. But pigment
dyeing is Possible in order to make dye able polypropylene. Use in
sportswear as its property that does not feel the wearer uncomfortable and
not the bad smell of sweat produced.

Figure 3.3: Dyeablepolypropylene fiber

Figure 3.4: structure of DPP

3.1.3 Cotton fiber

One sample of cotton and polyester is also prepared in order to check the results of
our experiment by comparing with the result of this sample. Cotton is a natural fiber
having good tenacity (3-4) but not good than dye able polypropylene fiber which is

20
(2.5-7.0). One sample of cotton and polyester is also prepared in order to check the
results of our experiment by comparing with the result of this sample.

Figure 3.5: Cotton fiber

For this project, Pakistani cotton was used

Table 0.2: properties of Pakistani cotton.

Sr.No Parameter Units Values

1 Micronaire µg/inch 4.7

2 Short fiber % 7.9

3 Uniformity Mm 83.8

4 Maturity % 34.6

5 Elongation - 6.4

6 Rd value - 75.3

7 Strength - 29.6

8 Moisture % 7.9

3.1.4 Polyester fiber

Blend with cotton fiber having characteristics of lightweight. Durability and
wrinkle resistance. But on the other hand, polyester has low absorbency and
more static and pilling problems.

21
 Figure 3.6: Polyester fiber

This spares profitable oil crude materials, decreases vitality utilization, and
dispenses with strong waste sent to landfills.

Table 0.3: Properties of polyester fiber.

Sr.No Parameter Units Values

1 Denier Dtex 1.2

2 Fiber Length Mm 34

3 Tenacity (Dry) cN/tex 48

4 Elongation (Dry) % 35

5 Tenacity (Wet) cN/tex 35

6 Elongation (Wet) % 51

7 Brightness of Fiber - Bright

8 Moisture % 0.4
Polyester is a classification of polymer whose monomer contains the ester
utilitarian gathering. The most widely recognized polyester for fiber designs is
poly (ethylene terephthalate), or PET. This spares profitable oil crude
materials, decreases vitality utilization, and dispenses with strong waste sent
to landfills.

3.2 Equipment
Different types of equipment/machines were used in this research, which is
shown in 3.1. Machines required on which this experiment was processed
step by step

22
Table 0.4: Equipment specification

Sr
Equipment Specifications
No

1
Blowroom Machine Toyoda OHARA HERGETH-1992
1

2
Card Machine Howa
2

3
Draw frame (Breaker) DYH-500c
3

4
Drawframe (Finisher) RSB-D40
4

5
Simplex Toyoda FL-16
5

6 Ring Machine Ry-6 (36) spindles

7
Auto cone MURATA
7

8
Weighing Balance BSM320.3 Electronic Balance
8

3.3 Design of Experiment

The ratios of the fibers that were used in this experiment for experimentation
were given below. Total 6 samples of different ratios were made and then
spin that samples.

23
Table 0.5: Design of Experiment

Sr. No Modal% Dyeablepolypropylene% Cotton% Polyester%

1 85 15 _ _

2 70 30 _ _

3 50 50 _ _

4 30 70 _ _

5 15 85 _ _

6 _ _ 60 40

3.4 Method
5 Samples of Modal and Dye able polypropylene fiber of different ratios were
used for doing a comparison with 60/40 CVC. The first step was to collect the
raw material and the Weight it from weighing balance according to the
required ratio. Then these samples from the spinning process one by one
and after the yarn prepared knitted fabric made through the single jersey.
3.4.1 Blow room
After collection of samples, the next step was the mixing of the selected
materials. Mixing was done first manually and after that, the further fiber to
fiber mixing was done in blow room. Each sample was run separately in blow
room. In blow room, fiber to fiber opening is also done by different types of
beaters
Basic operation in blow room line:
There are four basic operations involved in the blow room line.
• Opening operation
• Cleaning operation
• Mixing and blending operation
• Lap forming operation

Table 0.6: Specification of Blow Room

Sr.No Parameter Unit Values

1 Lap Weight Ounces/yard 12

24
2 Waste Gram/sample 110

3 Lap Sheet - 300 points

scutcher

4 The setting of Grid - Closed

Bars

3.4.2 Carding
Then the next step was carding, for this card machine was used. In card,
each input is given in the form of lap sheet and after carding action out is
obtained in the form of sliver. In this opening is done on fiber level. Fibers are
aligned in the card machine and are oriented parallel to each other. Sliver is
a soft rope of fibers with no strength and no twist. All the eight samples were
carded.
Main actions take place between some regions in the carding machine.
➢ Between the feed roller and taker-in. (combing action)
➢ Between the taker-in and cylinder. (stripping action)
➢ Between the cylinder and flats. (carding action)
➢ Between the cylinder and doffer.(doffing action)
➢ Between the doffer and stripper. (stripping action)

Table 0.7: Specification of Card

Input 12ounces/yd

Output grains 65grains/yd

Taker-in speed 770rpm

Cylinder speed 300rpm

Doffer speed 20rpm

3.4.3 Drawing
Drawing is the task by which slivers are mixed, multiplied and leveled. In
short-staple turning, the term is just connected to the procedure at a drawn
outline. In illustration slivers are prolonged when going through a gathering of
pair rollers, each pair is moving quicker than the past one. This license
brushing, drawing and extending of a few slivers to make them solid and
uniform. In most present-day worsted drawing sets, there are 3 entries of
stick drafting and roving procedure
Objectives
➢ To fix the pleated, twisted and hooked strands.

25
 ➢ To make the fiber parallel to their neighbors.
➢ To improve the consistency of strands by drafting and multiplying.
➢ To decrease weight per length unit of sliver.
➢ To expel dust from slivers.
➢ To mix crude material of the same hank consummately.

Table 0.8: Specification of Draw Frame

Parameter Breaker Finisher

Doubling 6 6

Delivery speed 350m/min 250m/min

Input grains 60 65

Output grains 65 65

Break draft 1.2 1.1

Main draft 5.3 5.1

Total draft 6.52 6

Delivery type Single Single

Auto leveller No Yes

Drafting roller 5/4 4/3

3.4.4 Simplex
Draw frame slivers are sustained to the roving frame in huge jars. The slivers
are gone through separators and afterward over the guide rollers and
pressure rollers. Presently the slivers are gone through the drafting rollers.
There is dead weight over these drafting rollers. Here, for the most part, the
6-15 draft is given. The conveyed slivers are too dainty to even think about
holding themselves together thus turn is required. The drafted strands of
filaments are then gone through flyers. These flyers make contort in the fiber
strands by pivoting and wind is normally 30-65 for each meter. There are
axles in the flyers on which the wound filaments for example roving are
wound.
• To draft the sliver to decrease weight per unit length.
• To embed a limited quantity of wind to reinforce the roving to
counteract breakage during next preparing.
• To make tapered or tapper state of the bobbin.

26
 • To wind curved strand on the bobbin.

• To insert the twist in sliver.

• Make a suitable package in the form of roving.
• To reduce the weight per unit length.

Table 0.9: Specification of Simplex

Parameter Values

Delivery speed 550RPM

TPI 0.75

TM 0.75

Break draft 1.5

Total draft 7.80

Drafting setting 4/4

Hank roving 1.1 Ne

3.4.5 Ring frame

The feed material originates from speed frame for example roving bobbin is
put on the creel. The creel which is connected to the machine is umbrella sort.
At that point, the feed material is passed under the guide rollers and through
the trumpet into the drafting zone. Here some draft is embedded into the
roving. The draft framework is 3 more than 3 drafting framework with cover.
The conveyance material that is conveyed from the front roller is come to the
voyager over pneumatic waste authority, lappet and through an inflatable
controlling ring. To embed an adequate measure of a curve to the yarn.
• To wind the yarn onto the bobbin.
• To manufacture the yarn bundle appropriately.

Table 0.10: Specification of Ring

Delivery speed 16000rpm

TM 4.1

Break draft 1.24

Total draft 33

27
Main draft 25.19

Twist type S twist

Ring size 38mm

Drafting system ¾
3.4.6 Autoconer
The auto cone is a cutting-edge yarn winding machine. It is used to plan a
greater bundle from ring bobbin. It is simply not just having a twisting
machined, there additionally some additional detail of this machine. There
are a few highlights of the autoencoder. Anyway, the basic ones are being
talked about. These are as per the following.
Objectives
➢ Computerized spinning bobbin feed
➢ Linkage with the ring-spinning machine
➢ Yarn bundle rewinding with programmed feed bundle change
➢ Manual filling of the feed bobbins into the feed magazines
➢ Rewinding of physically crept yarn bundles
➢ Rewinding of leftover yarn bundles
➢ Predefined bundle thickness
➢ Persistent internet estimating of the yarn strain

Table 0.11: Specification of Auto Cone

Sr.No Parameter Values

1 Winding speed 980rpm

2 Grove drum 2.5

3 Type of cradle Cantilever

4 Type of Feeding Tray

5 Splice Time 9s

6 Untwist Pressure 6.3Pa

7 Clearer Uster Quantum 2

8 Splicing Pressure 6Pa

After the yarn had prepared then the samples were send to knitting
department where the knit fabric of every sample were made. Yarn samples

28
were sending to the NTRC and testing laboratory in order to get required
tests, Knitted fabric also sends to NTRC to get different required parameters.

3.5 Fabric manufacturing

3.5.1 Small knitting machine
The sample knitting machine is very popular for its high speed and easy to
handle. Knitting sample machine is basically used for testing purpose.
Sample knitting machine makes a sample in tabular form for the testing.
Many needles in this machine set at circular row form, one yarn end-use for
the make the knitted sample. Needles moves at high speed in up and down
motion to create a loop. Fabric construction single interlock fabric. Persistent
length of yarn is changed over into vertically intermeshed circles either by
hand or by machine.
Objectives
➢ To reduce the time because of the high speed.
➢ Easy to handle.
➢ To achieve the tubular form structure of the fabric.

Table 0.12: Specification of Sample Knitting Machine

Specifications Values

Machine N.P. I 20

Number of needles 222

Needle gauge 54

Denier 270-150

Count 30/1

3.5.2 Knitted Fabric

Knitting is the second mostwell-known procedure of fabric or piece of clothing
arrangement by between circling one or one lot of yarns. Persistent length of
yarn is changed over into vertically intermeshed circles either by hand or by
machine. The expression "knitting" has been advanced from the Saxon word
'Cnyttan' which thusly was gotten from the antiquated Sanskrit word 'Nahyat'.
Weaving is one sort of fabric assembling process in which fabric is created
by inters looping among circles shaped by single or a few yarns encouraging
at the same time. Weaved fabrics created with fasten arrangement.

29
3.6 Testing
The testing was done on each step. Both fabric and yarn were tested on
different standards. Different types of tests were done. All samples were
tested and then compared the test results with each other. On the basis of
results, it was concluded whether our product could compete with others or
not. The comparison of all the samples done on the basis of results and then
compared the results of all the samples according to the research main task.
Following test was done yarn and fabric test were done in testing lab and
NTRC lab n order to get the final results. The comparison of all the samples
done on the basis of results and then compared the results of all the samples
according to the research main task. The following test was done.yarn and
fabric test were done in testing lab and NTRC lab n order to get the final
results. The testing was done on each step. Both fabric and yarn were tested
on different standards. Different types of tests were done. All samples were
tested and then compared the test results with each other.
3.6.1 Testing equipment’s
Following tests were done for the yarn and fabric.

Table 0.13: Testing Equipments and standards

Sr.No Equipment Specification Test Standard

Yarn strength Determination of yarn ASTM D1578

1
tester tensile property.

yarn evenness Determination the ASTM D1425

2
tester uniformity of the yarn.

Single fiber Determination of single ASTM 3822

3
strength tester fiber strength.
Determination of the
Moisture ISO BS 7209
4 moisture ability of the
absorption tester
fabric.
Air permeability Determination of airflow ISO 9237
5
tester through the fabric
Thermal resistivity Determination of the ISO 11092
6
tester thermal resistivity of fabric
Bursting strength Determination of bursting ISO-13938-2
7
tester strength of the fabric

30
Table 0.14: Classifications of test

Fibers Test Yarn Testing Fabric Testing

TPI Test Air permeability Test

HVITesting(ISO2403,
ASTMD1445 (ASTMD1422:13) (ASTMD737)

Bursting Strength
UT-5
Single Fiber Test
Test(ASTMD1425) (ISO-13938-2

Lea strength Test Moisture Management

(ASTM D2256) (BS7209)

Tensorapid Test

(Iso2062 – ASTM
D1578)

3.6.2 Single fiber strength tester (ASTM 3822)

Fiber strength tester is used to measure the tensile strength of the fiber and
also define the fiber elongation of synthetic or natural fiber i-e cotton, wool,
silk, viscose, polyester, etc. Testing performs on 0.001-1000mm/min speed
for the fiber strength test.

Figure 3.7: Single Fiber Strength Tester

31
3.6.3 High volume instrument (HVI) Test
The testing of strands was dependable of significance to the spinner. It is
finished by the HVI machine. High volume instrument frameworks depend on
the fiber group quality testing, ie, numerous strands are checked in the
meantime and their normal qualities decided. Conventional testing utilizing
micronaire, Pressley, stylometry, and fibro chart is intended to decide normal
incentive for countless filaments, the alleged fiber group tests. In HVI, the
group testing strategy is computerized.

Figure 3.8: HVI Instrument

3.6.4 Uster tensorapid 4 (ISO 2062, ASTM D1578)

Uster Tensorapid is used for both types of yarn natural cellulosic base and
synthetic yarn. Uster tester basically measured the single yarn tenacity,
elongation and the ability of yarn braking force.

Figure 3.9: Tensorapid

32
3.6.5 Lea strength tester (ASTM D2256)
Lea strength tester used 120 yards length of the yarn. Two jaws are mounted
on the lea strength tester one us fixed another is moveable, lea adjusts on
the jaws and moveable jaw down the word as result stretch produce in the
yarn. Then this stage finds out the yarn elongation and strength of the yarn.
3.6.6 Twist per inch (TPI) test(ASTM D1422: 13)
The measure of twist in a yarn characterizes the style of yarn – a yarn with a
great deal of air, for example, a woolen-spun yarn will have substantially less
curved than a yarn with little air, for example, a worsted-spun yarn. The
measure of wind additionally influences the yarn as far as stretchiness,
quality, corona, and numerous different characteristics. Filling or weft yarns,
for the most part, have fewer bends per inch since quality isn't as significant
similarly as with twist yarns and exceedingly curved yarns are, as a rule,
more grounded. Filling or weft yarns, for the most part, have fewer bends per
inch since quality isn't as significant similarly as with twist yarns, and
exceedingly curved yarns are, as a rule, more grounded. The measure of
wind additionally influences the yarn as far as stretchiness, quality, corona,
and numerous different characteristics.

Figure 3.10: TPI machine

33
3.7 Design of experiment

Polyester
Sample # Modal Dyeable Cotton
polypropylene

1 85 15 0 0

2 70 30 0 0

3 50 50 0 0

4 30 70 0 0

5 15 85 60 40

• Required Count = 30/1

• Type of process= Ring spinning
• Average sample weight= 4.5Kg
• Total no of Sample= 5
• Fabric= knitted Fabric

34
 Chapter 4.
RESULTS AND DISCUSSIONS
Various results of the samples that are tested in the testing lab and NTRC lab.
Actually tells that how much your results fair with your experimentation.
4.1 Fiber testing
4.1.1 (HVI Test)

Table 0.1: HVI test Results

Attributes Observations

Mic. 4.87

Mst. % 7.5

Mat 0.87

UHML (in) 1.085

UI% 81.4

SF% 9.8

Str. (g/tex) 28.2

Elg. % 6.4

Rd 73.8

+b 9.4

CGrd 32-2

TrCnt 56

SCI 112

35
4.1.2 Single fiber strength test

Table 0.2: Single fiber strength Test

Force at break Elongation at Tenacity

Fiber Name
(CN) break% (CN/Tex)

Modal (1.3 Denier) 4.416 1.087 30.882

Dyeablepolypropylene 6.5 1.36 44.42

Polyester (1.2 Denier) 7.009 1.751 53.896

4.2 Yarn testing

4.2.1 Twist per inch(TPI) tEST

Table 0.3: TPI Test

Twist per Standard

Sr No Sample Ratios CV%
inch Deviation

Modal: Dyeable
1 18.7 0.48 2.58
polypropylene 85:15

Modal: Dyeable
2 19.3 0.48 2.50
polypropylene 70:30

Modal: Dyeable
3 18.6 0.51 2.77
polypropylene 50:50

Modal: Dyeable
4 19.3 0.48 2.50
polypropylene 30:70

Modal: Dyeable
5 16.1 0.31 1.96
polypropylene 15:85

6 Cotton: Polyester 60:40 18.3 0.48 2.63

36
 25

18.7 19.3 18.6 19.3

20 18.3
16.1
15

10 TPI

0
Sample 1 Sample 2 Sample3 Sample4 Sample 5 Sample 6

Figure 4.1: TPI test

It is clear from the figure 4.1 twist per inch of all the samples. TPI can affect
the fabric in a variety of ways, the higher the twist, the lower is the diameter
of the yarn and less air will pass from fabric.

4.2.2 Tensorapid Test

Table 0.4: Tensorapid Test

S
B-
Sr Sample Ratios TENACITY(CN/TEX) ELONG %
Force(C)
No

Modal :Dyeablepolypropylene
1 327.4 16.64 8.83
85:15

Modal :Dyeablepolypropylene
2 309.8 15.74 8.96
70:30

Modal :Dyeablepolypropylene
3 278 14.13 9.32
50:50

Modal :Dyeablepolypropylene
4 298.2 15.15 10.99
30:70

Modal :Dyeablepolypropylene
5 377.3 19.17 12.72
15:85

6 Cotton:Polyester 60:40 326.5 16.59 7.13

37
 25

20 19.17
16.64 16.59
15.74 15.15
15 14.13

10 Tenacity (CN/Tex)

0
M/DPP M/DPP M/DPP M/DPP M/DPP CVC
85:15 70:30 50:50 30:70 15:85 60:40

Figure 4.2: Analysis of Tenacity of yarn

It is clear from the figure 4.4 that sample 4 having a blend ratio of 15% Modal
and 85% Dyeablepolypropylene having more tenacity as compared to the
other samples. It means more the force required to break on per Tex.

400 377.3

350 327.4 326.5

309.8
298.2
300

250
208
200
B-Force (CN)
150

100

50

0
M/DPP M/DPP M/DPP M/DPP M/DPP CVC
85:15 70:30 50:50 30:70 15:85 60:40

Figure 4.3 Analysis of B-Force 1

It can be seen from figure 4.3 that B-force of various yarns checked through
Tensorapid Test. It is clearly noticed that sample for having a blend ratio of

38
15% Modal and 85% Dye able polypropylene have highest breaking force
among all which means that 377.3CN force is required to break the yarn.

14 12.72
12 10.99

10 8.96 9.32
8.83
8 7.13

6 Elongation %
4

0
M/DPP M/DPP M/DPP M/DPP M/DPP CVC
85:15 70:30 50:50 30:70 15:85 60:40

Figure 4.4: Analysis of Elongation

4.2.3 Lea strength test

Table 0.5: Lea strength Test

Sample Lea strength

Material Blend ratio CLSP
number (lb)

1 Modal/Dyeable M/DPP 85/15 99 3089

polypropylene

2 Modal/ Dyeable M/DPP 70/30 88 2735

polypropylene

3 Modal/ M/DPP 50/50 77 2344

Dyeablepolypropylene

4 Modal/ M/DPP30/70 89 2565

Dyeablepolypropylene

5 Modal/ M/DPP 15/85 98 3981

Dyeablepolypropylene

6 CVC CVC 60/40 100 3850

These are the values of lea strength of our yarn samples. As predicted
sample one has the highest value due to highest ratio of Modal used.

39
4.2.4 Blend ratio test

Table 0.6: Blend Ratio Test

Sample number Material Blend ratio

1 Modal/Dyeablepolypropylene 82:18±1

2 Modal/Dyeablepolypropylene 69:31±1

3 Modal/Dyeablepolypropylene 52:48±1

4 Modal/Dyeablepolypropylene 27:73 ±1

5 Modal/Dyeablepolypropylene 14:86 ±1

6 CVC 53:47 ±1

The blend ratio test is actually performed to see what variationcomes in the
ratios of the samples that we selected before.

4.3 Fabric testing

4.3.1 Gsm test

Table 0.7: GSM Test

Sample number Material Blend ratio GSM

1 Modal/Dye able polypropylene M/DPP 85/15 143

2 Modal/Dye able polypropylene M/DPP 70/30 132

3 M/DPP 50/50 100

Modal/Dye able polypropylene

4 Modal/Dye able polypropylene M/DPP30/70 106

5 Modal/Dye able polypropylene M/DPP 15/85 110

6 CVC CVC 60/40 94

40
 4.3.2 Air permeability test

Table 0.8: Air Permeablity Test

Air Permeability

SR Blend (mm/sec)
Material
No ratio
Inner Outer
SD CV% side SD CV%
side

M/DPP
Modal/Dyeablpolypr
1 85/15 2450 174.9 7.14 2450 221.7 9.3
opylene

M/DPP
Modal/Dyeablpolypr 70/30
2 2880 203.8 6.17 3102 413.36 13.11
opylene

M/DPP
Modal/Dyeablpolypr 50/50
3 2398 145.3 6.6 2700 433.1 16.4
opylene

Modal/Dyeablpolypr M/DPP
4 30/70 2328 416.8 17.9 2560 293.51 11.5
opylene

M/DPP
Modal/Dyeable
5 15/85 2428 126.1 5.16 2484 137.22 5.2
polypropylene

CVC
6 CVC 60/40 2124 356.5 16.7 2552 94.97 3.7

41
 3500

3000

2500

2000
Inner Side
1500
Outer Side
1000

500

0
Modal/DppModal/Dpp Modal/DppModal/Dpp Modal/Dpp CVC 60:40
85:15 70:30 50:50 30:70 15:85

Figure 4.5: Analysis of Air permeability test of fabric

It is clear that Modal is a high wet modulus fiber with a circular structure and
this decreases the circular area and hence less diameter. Due to the high TPI
of sample 1, 2 and CVC, they have high air permeability value as twist
increases, the diameter of the yarn decreases and hence more air is passed.
4.3.3 Thermal resistance test

Table 0.9: Thermal Resistance Test

Thermal
Sample No Material Blend Ratio Cv%
Resistance(m^2*k/W)

Modal/Dyeable
1 M/DppP85/15 0.0160 17.67
polypropylene

Modal/Dyeable
2 M/Dpp 70/30 0.020 5.00
polypropylene

Modal/Dyeable
3 M/Dpp 50/50 0.019 19.58
polypropylene

Modal/Dyeable
4 M/Dpp 30/70 0.019 10.76
polypropylene

Modal/Dyeable
5 M/Dpp 15/85 0.020 5.00
polypropylene

6 CVC CVC 60/40 0.018 14.670

42
 0.025
0.020 0.02
0.02 0.019 0.019
0.018
0.016
0.015

0.01
Thermal Resistance
0.005

Figure 4.6: Analysis of Thermal resistances of fabric samples

It can be seen from figure 4.6 that cotton has more thermal resistance as
compared to modal; this is due to the bean like structure of cotton fiber which
traps heat in the crimps. Modal also has porous structure which can trap heat
hence both fibers has good thermal resistance.
4.3.4 Water vapor permeability test

Table 0.10: Water permeability Test

Water vapour
Sample No Material Blend Ratio Cv%
Permeability

Modal/Dyeable
1 M/DppP 85/15 99.56 0.30
polypropylene

Modal/Dyeable
2 M/Dpp 70/30 99.26 0.26
polypropylene

Modal/Dyeable
3 M/Dpp 50/50 96.81 0.81
polypropylene

Modal/Dyeable
4 M/Dpp 30/70 96.87 0.80
polypropylene

Modal/Dyeable
5 M/Dpp 15/85 98.61 0.89
polypropylene

6 CVC CVC 60/40 97.12 0.94

43
 100
99.56
99.5 99.26

99
98.61
98.5

98

97.5
97.12 Water Vapor Permeability
97 96.81 96.87

96.5

96

95.5

95
Modal/Dpp
Modal/Dpp
85:15 Modal/Dpp
70:30 Modal/Dpp
50:50 Modal/Dpp
30:70 15:85

Figure 4.7: Analysis of water vapor permeability of fabric samples

It is clear from figure 4.7 that Sample 1 with 85% modal shows the highest
WVP due to the fact that drying factor of modal is high as compared to cotton
and because cotton absorbs the moisture. Water vapor permeability is the
ability of a compound to transmit moisture from the body. If the WVP is low
and thermal resistance is high, this creates an uncomfortable sensation.

4.3.5 Bursting Strength

Table 0.11: Bursting Strength Results

Bursting
Sample No Material Blend Ratio Cv%
Strength(Kpa)

Modal/Dyeable
1 M/DPP 85/15 154 5.24
polypropylene

Modal/Dyeable
2 M/Dpp 70/30 148 10.59
polypropylene

44
 Modal/Dyeable
3 M/Dpp 50/50 138 7.87
polypropylene

Modal/Dyeable
4 M/Dpp 30/70 148.4 5.41
polypropylene

Modal/Dyeable
5 M/Dpp 15/85 150.8 8.54
polypropylene

6 CVC CVC 60/40 163.4 10.45

200 184.8
180 163.4
160 154 148 148.4
138
140
120
100 Bursting Strength (Kpa)
80
CV %
60
40
18.54
20 5.24 10.59 7.87 5.41 10.45
0
M/DppP M/Dpp M/Dpp M/Dpp M/Dpp CVC
85/15 70/30 50/50 30/70 15/85 60/40

Figure 4.8: Bursting strength test

Bursting strength of the fabric depends upon the strength of material used. It
can be observed from figure 4.8 that both CVC and Sample 1 has the highest
values for bursting strength as they contain the highest ration of Modal fiber.

45
 Chapter 5.
CONCLUSIONS
It is concluded from the experiment that the sample 1 having ratio of 75%
Modal and 30% dye able polypropylene shows the results resembled the
CVC 60/40Sample Breaking strength, Tenacity and the elongation of sample
4 is more than all of the other samples. Modal property having good moisture
Regain and Dye able polypropylene used for aesthetic purposes and having
very good Wet modulus tenacity so this ratio of material can be utilized as a
replacement of CVC 60/40 in Industry.

46
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II
Appendix A

III