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Introduction To Zari

Zari is a type of embroidery from India done with metallic threads. It originated from Persian words meaning "gold" and "weaving". Traditionally done with gold and silver, it is now also done with coated plastic or copper wires. The document discusses the history, processes, materials, tools, types (e.g. kamdani, kataoki bel), motifs, and designs of zari work. It also provides a SWOT analysis of the zari industry in India. The leading markets are in West Bengal, Maharashtra, North India, and South India. Surat is the largest producer of raw materials for zari.

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janhavi madaan
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2K views

Introduction To Zari

Zari is a type of embroidery from India done with metallic threads. It originated from Persian words meaning "gold" and "weaving". Traditionally done with gold and silver, it is now also done with coated plastic or copper wires. The document discusses the history, processes, materials, tools, types (e.g. kamdani, kataoki bel), motifs, and designs of zari work. It also provides a SWOT analysis of the zari industry in India. The leading markets are in West Bengal, Maharashtra, North India, and South India. Surat is the largest producer of raw materials for zari.

Uploaded by

janhavi madaan
Copyright
© © All Rights Reserved
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Download as DOCX, PDF, TXT or read online on Scribd
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Introduction to Zari:

Zari Zardozi is the most lavish type of weaving in India. Zardozi


got its name from two Persian words which signify 'Zar' as gold
and 'Dozi' remains for weaving. From antiquated circumstances,
nation is known for the utilization of brilliant weaving on
different items like improvements and decorations and
extraordinarily on the court outfits and the frill like shoes were
finished with Zari weavings.
These days Zardozi weaving is finished with wound metal wire
or a wire of plastic center that is shaded brilliantly outside,
which is more pocket benevolent and lighter to wear. It is a
complex kind of weaving customarily finished with gold, silver
and different valuable stones. It is known for its regal and
sumptuous appearance.
Details for formation of Zari strings:
Zari embroidery is one of the finest embroidery in India which is
done with metallic strings called as kalabattu which forms the
zari.
Zari strings under goes into a long procedure to be formed,
metal ingots are melted into metal bars called pasa, which then
goes into the process of beating to form fine lengths.
Then the fine lengths of metal are pulled through perforated
steel plates to make it into metal wires, followed by Tarkashi
process. The wire is flattened and twisted with silk or cotton
strings to become kalabattu or kasab, which has uniform
evenness, softness and is easily twistable.
Tikora is a gold thread spirally twisted for complicated designs,
to make the item more affordable, the layer of silver or brilliant
is given to the copper base.
Dull zari is known as kora while the zari which has shimmery
effect is known as chikna.
Zari is categorized into three sorts:
Real zari– genuine zari is simply made of gold and silver.
Imitation zari- It is made of silver electroplated daintily copper
wire as a substitution of silver, yet with expanded cost of copper
as well, the generation is done in extremely restricted amount.
Metallic or Plastic zari- Made of polyester or nylon wire
wrapped with metalized film. It is moderate and less expensive
in contrast with genuine zari and Imitation zari.
Value run for imitation and real zari falls between Rs.15000 to
Rs.20000, contingent upon the work done and for metallic zari,
the value goes from Rs.1200rs to Rs.1500.
Different types of zari embroidery :
Kamdani- It is a lighter needle work done on a lighter material.
The effect produced is glittering and is called hazzarabutti
(thousand lights).
Kataoki Bel- Border pattern made of stiff canvas and whole
surface is filled with sequin edging.
Mokaish - It is done with silver wire or badla. The wire itself
serve as a needle.
Tilla or Marori work – Gold thread is stitched on the surface
with a needle.
Kinari work- These are done only at the edges, in the form of
tassels.
HISTORY
The workmanship started in Persia and came in India around
1700-1100BC, the time of apparatus veda. Zari work flourished
amid Mughal period around (1556-1605), under the sovereign
Akbar when Perso-Islamic culture started to consolidate and
intermix with local Indian components.
Ever, Zardozi is acclaimed for its superb look, with the weave of
gold and silver string, to amplify the general look of fabric,
plans are done with pearls and valuable stones, known as the
image of sovereignty. These days, zardozi is worn amid
extraordinary events, for example, weddings and celebrations,
fabric with zari grants a magnificent look to the individual
wearing it.
ZARI WORK IN INDIA:
The leading Indian market of zari products are Kolkata in east;
Mumbai and Nagpur in west; Jaipur, Amritsar, Delhi and
Varanasi in North; and Mysore, Bangalore, Salem, Chennai,
Madurai, Kanchipuram and Kumbakonam in the south.
Lucknow zardozi work are more ornate and has a three
dimensional motifs which is similar to Delhi motifs. Whereas
Agra and Hyderabad are limited to their minimalistic simple
patterns with large motifs and Chennai is the influence of
regional Tamil zardozi motifs.
Consumption of zari is most in South India.
Surat is the largest producer of raw materials for zari like thread,
ribbons, borders, etc.

RAW MATERIALS AND TOOLS FOR ZARI:


 Butter paper for tracing.
 Pencil/pen for sketching the motifs/design into paper.
 Kerosene and chalk powder solution.
 Wooden frame (karchob).
 Needle and Aari.
 Scissors.
 Hammer
 Dyed fabrics like satin, silk, velvet.
 Threads (metallic, cotton).
 Beads, dabka, sequins etc.
 Naag/Nagina
 Tapka/Kodha/Maal
 Bhuliyan
 Salma and Sitara
 Markin

Process:
The wooden frame for making zari is called karchob (commonly
known as Adda). Here the fabric is placed tightly in karchob
while all the selvage is temporarily stitched to it.
The chapai of motifs or design is done on paper first and after
the final selection of motif, it is traced on butter paper, the
outline of the motif is then perforated with a needle.
A tracing solution is made with mixing kerosene oil and the
chalk powder after tracing.
The traced out butter paper is placed on the fabric onto which
embroidery will be done, the butter paper is hold tightly and the
tracing solution is applied on the butter paper with a help of
cotton, here the solution gets into the fabric with the help of tiny
holes make on the butter paper.
After tracing, the fabric is left over 20-30 minutes, so the
solution dries and the motifs get traced.
Zari embroidery is done with aari using metallic threads. Aari is
a type of a needle mostly used in zari work. For making any
motifs, mostly zari elements like coiled wire, dabka, tilla, beads
are used to give the zari work an elegant look. Fabrics mostly
used in zari work are satin, velvet, silk etc and the colors of
fabric are mostly in shades of solid and bright colors like
maroon, red , green, blue etc.
Mainly, chain stitch is used for outlining the design and for
filling, satin stitches are followed in zari work.
After embroidery, it's then polished for a better look.
The ready product is then wrapped with Chimki and is ready to
be delivered.
DESIGNS:
The patterns were inspired by ancient reliance and custom, but
they vary from place to place and are handed down over the
centuries, mostly from Persian and Mughal culture.
Zardozi embroidery also uses katori, tiken and sequins to create
more ravishing designs. Salma sitara is a type of design in which
floral motifs are used, for intricate pattern gija or thin stiff wire
is used whereas, tikori which is a gold thread spirally twisted, is
used for complicated designs.
MOTIFS:
Motif is an image/design which gets repeated in a pattern
The patterns in zari are inspired by ancient reliance and custom,
but they vary from place to place and are handed down over the
centuries, mostly from Persian and Mughal culture.
Mughal and Persian motifs consist of:
Geometric
These motifs include lines in various forms, such as vertical,
horizontal diagonal and curved. They form fabric designs, such
as concentric circles, diamond and their associated designs.
Natural
Natural motifs portray as direct replica of things as they exist in
nature, such as Paisley, flowers, trees, birds and other natural
things.
Placement/ layout of motifs:
The patterns or layouts can be made in various ways to form the
design, the are; Side layout
Half layout
Border layout
Side layout:- The motifs in this layout are placed close to
touch each other, but are separated by ground area, seeming to
float on a plain background.
Half layout:-. Motifs of different sizes and shapes can be
added to pattern and placed in different directions, even upside-
down.
Border layout:-. The rhythmic effect is achieved through the
length of the border. Even if the lines are broken, it should be
done at regular intervals, so that the eye automatically sees it as
a continues line.
SWOT Analysis :
Strength-
 Long lasting work.
 Large, diversified and potential market.
 Large product variety and range available for different
markets.
 Need low capital expenditure.
 Production flexibility.
Weakness-
 Time consuming
 Labour intensive
 Expensive
 Frequent power cuts
 Low wages
 Lack of communication facilities.
 Less aware about international requirements and market.
 Insufficient information of new technology.
 Sparse information of current market trends.
 Less interest of young people in practising zari craft.
 Still confined in cottage industry.
 Lack of promotion of products.
Opportunity-
 Rising demand for hand crafted Products like zardozi in
developed countries.
 High requirement of hand crafted products in fashion
industries.
 Development of retail infrastructure for zari products.
 E-Commerce and Internet are emerging as large platform to
sell the products.
 Use of sustainable packaging and products.
 Larger product mix.
 Incorporation of zari embroidery in leading designers’
collection
Threat-
 Tough competition in domestic market from other crafts.
 Better quality machine made products at cheaper rate.
 Increased price of raw materials.
 Fear of getting their designs copied.

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