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Pechay Production Guide

This document provides a guide for pechay production. It discusses suitable varieties, climatic and soil requirements, planting methods, fertilization, pest and disease management, harvesting, and post-harvest handling. The key steps outlined are land preparation, transplanting seedlings, irrigation, fertilization with compost tea or urea, and controlling common pests and diseases through spraying hot pepper extract or removing infected plants. Pechay is harvested 3-4 weeks after planting.

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0% found this document useful (0 votes)
4K views

Pechay Production Guide

This document provides a guide for pechay production. It discusses suitable varieties, climatic and soil requirements, planting methods, fertilization, pest and disease management, harvesting, and post-harvest handling. The key steps outlined are land preparation, transplanting seedlings, irrigation, fertilization with compost tea or urea, and controlling common pests and diseases through spraying hot pepper extract or removing infected plants. Pechay is harvested 3-4 weeks after planting.

Uploaded by

Majorine
Copyright
© © All Rights Reserved
We take content rights seriously. If you suspect this is your content, claim it here.
Available Formats
Download as DOC, PDF, TXT or read online on Scribd
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Pechay Production Guide

Varieties

Black Behi; Hari Digma; Shin Kang

Gengis Khan; Shanhai No. 2

Climatic and Soil Requirements

Pechay can be grown from low to mid elevations throughout the year. Production is best, however,
during the dry season in sandy to clay loam soil, with a pH of 5.5-6.5.

Planting

A1-ha production area requires kg seeds.

Pechay can either be sown directly in soil or transplanted. Direct seeding is carried out by broadcasting
or by sowing in rows. Cover seeds to a depth of about 1 cm by raking or spreading additional topsoil.
Water immediately after sowing. Plant spacing should be 10 cm between plants and 20 cm between
rows.

If transplanted, sow seeds initially in seedbeds. Transplant seedlings 2-3 weeks after sowing at a distance
of 10 cm between plants and 20 cm between rows. Transplant preferably in the afternoon and water
immediately. Mulch with grass clippings or rice straw.

Fertilization
Apply seedlings with starter solution using urea (46-0-0) at the rate of 2 tbsp/gal of water. Side-dress
along the rows at the rate of 1 tbsp/plant one week after transplanting.

Pest and Disease Management

Damping-off, soft rot and clubroot are the most important diseases of pechay, while diamondback moth
and aphids are the major insect pests. Spraying hot pepper extract can control these pests. When
seedlings begin to wilt, reduce watering immediately. Uproot and burn disease-infected plants to
prevent spread of diseases. Cultivation is also necessary to minimize weeds.

Harvesting

Harvest as early as three weeks after planting or between 30-40 days after sowing. Harvest preferably in
the afternoon to minimize postharvest losses.

Upon harvesting, wash the plants, trim old leaves and remove roots. Grade according to size and quality,
and pack in strong rigid containers with holes at the sides to allow aeration. Pack with the base of the
plant to the sides of the baskets. Maintain turgidity by lining the basket with paper.

Source: Pechay Production Guide Info Bulletin #161/2000 PCARRD – darfu4b.da.gov.ph

Lettuce Production Guide

lettuce production guide

Lettuce (Lactuca sativa L.) is the most popular salad vegetable. Its high fiber but low nutrient value
makes it an ideal vegetable for those who watch their diet.
There are many types of lettuce. The most popular locally is the crisphead type, which includes grand
rapid type varieties. Oakleaf and Lollo Rossa. Other types are Romaine/Cos and the Butterhead/Bostoan
and Bibb lettuce.

Production Management

Varieties

Type Variety Leaf Color Maturity

Iceberg Great Lakes 54 green 45-50

Great Lakes 659 green 45-50

West Lake green. 45-50

Romaine/Cos Lital dark green 50-60

Loose Leaf Noga green 50-60

Parris Island green 50-60

Samantha red 45-60

New Red Fire red 45-60

Climatic Requirements

Lettuce is a semi-temperate vegetable requiring cool temperatures of 15-200C. The iceberg varieties will
not form heads in hotter areas. It can also be planted in low elevations during November to December.
The quality is best in high elevations (1000 m asl).

Seedling Production

About 150-200 g of seeds is required per hectare. The best method of seedling production is by line
sowing in seed boxes or nursery beds with a soil mixture of 2 parts garden soil, 2 parts manure and 1
part rice hull charcoal. Water before sowing. Make lines 7-10 cm apart. Sow 200-400 seeds/m. Cover
with the same mixture and mulch with rice hull or fine rice straw. Water daily and prick to nursery trays
with the same soil mix after germination. Maintain under partial shade and harden by exposure to full
sunlight one week before transplanting. The seedlings are ready for transplanting 3-4 weeks from
sowing.

Land Preparation

Prepare the land thoroughly. Make beds 0.75-1.0 m wide. Incorporate generous amounts of animal
manure at 10-20t/ha. Use rice hull to improve soil texture.

Transplanting

Water the beds properly before transplanting. If the rice straw is available, mulch the beds and
transplant at 30-40 cm x 30-40 cm, 2-3 rows/bed to intercrop onion, chives, or garlic in the beds with
marigold.

Irrigation

Water the plants regularly. Use furrow irrigation, if available. Mulching helps conserve soil moisture.

Fertilization

Apply sufficient animal manure at transplanting. Use tea manure or legume tea once a week, or as
needed. Prepare tea manure by soaking manure in plastic drum. After two days, the resulting mixture,
tea manure, is used as fertilizer to boost plant growth. Legume tea is prepared by soaking leaves of ipil-
ipil or madre de cacao in water. The mixture is ready after 6-10 days.

At transplanting, use 10 g 14-14-14/hill as basal fertilizer and side-dress with 5-10 g urea (46-0-0)/plant
at 2-3 weeks after transplanting

Pest and Disease Management


Lettuce has few significant pests and diseases. In case of cabbage looper and aphids, use botanical
pesticides or soap solution. Bacterial rot can be minimized by sanitation.

Harvesting and Post harvest

Harvest iceberg lettuce at 45-60 days from transplanting, when heads are firm. Harvest loose-leaf lettuce
as needed, preferably before bolting.

For large-scale planting, sort the heads in the field and pack immediately in perforated carton boxes. If
available, vacuum cooling to 10C is best. Transport at 40C.

Source: Lettuce Production Guide

Information Bulletin No. 150/1999

PCARRD

Mustard (Mustasa)

Peppery, crispy mustard greens, also known as leaf mustards, are indeed one of the

most nutritious green-leafy vegetables available around. Its lovely top greens have

actually more vitamin A, carotenes, vitamin K, and flavonoid anti-oxidants than some

of typical fruits and vegetables.


Farm Practices

Mustard be grown in wide varieties of soil that ranges from light to heavy loamy soils.

1-2 ploughing and 2 harrowing should be given as part of field preparation. And 7- 10

tons of farmyard manure per hectare should be added as part of field preparation.

Planting Management

Mustard seed plants are normally grown from seed but can be grown from purchased

seedlings as well. Plant the mustard seed about three weeks before your last frost

date. Plant your mustard seeds about a 1 inch apart. Once they sprout, thin the

seedlings so that they are 6 inches apart.

Seasonality

Mustards are cool season winter crop. Their tender, crispy leaves are more flavorful

which last from November until March

Harvesting
Harvesting should be carried out as soon as the pods begin to turn yellow and seed

becomes hard. The mustard crop matures in about 110-140 days. Young tender green

leaves, which used as green-leafy vegetables, are gathered when the plant reaches

about 2 feet tall. If left alone, it continues to grow, reaches about 4-5 feet in height and

bears golden yellow flowers which subsequently develop into mustard seed pod7

Guide

Carrot Production Guide for Beginners

Contents hide

1 Carrot Production Guide for Beginners

1.1 Related Posts:

Carrot (Daucus carota L.) is a biennial crop. The leaves are feather like with long petioles and they are
severally divided into sections. The sheath of the petiole opens at the base. The flowers are white, small
and borne in compound terminal umbels. Carrot is propagated by seeds. The thickened fleshy root is the
edible portion. The shape, color and size of the root vary according to varieties.

carrot production

Photo by Tracy O
Carrot originated from Central Asia with Afghanistan as the primary center of origin. It is one of the most
important vegetables commonly grown in the Philippine highlands. The production areas are in Benguet,
Mountain Province, Ifugao, Nueva Vizcaya, Cebu, Davao del Sur, Negros Oriental, and Bukidnon.

One of the best sources of beta carotene is commonly grown in high elevation like Mountain Province.
But through variety and adaptability trials, some carrot varieties could be grown now in medium
elevations and in lowland areas.

Carrot comes in different colors – white, yellow, orange, purple and violet. Several hundred varieties
exist, but there are four main types:

Imperator – has long roots (23-25cm), small shoulders and tapered tip;

Nantes – has medium length roots (15cm), uniform diameter and blunt tip;

Danvers – is large, with medium length roots (18cm), a processing type used for dicing and slicing; and

Chantenay – is short (13cm) with large shoulders, and usually a large, distinctly colored core.

Climatic and Soil Requirements

Carrot grows best in high elevation areas 1,000 m above sea level. Under such conditions, carrots are
more succulent and less fibrous, with smother texture and deeper color. Roots attain optimal color when
air temperature is 15-21 °C, but colors deepen rapidly in this temperature range about three weeks
before harvest. Temperature below 10 °C and above 30 °C reduce quality and yield of carrots.

Carrot can be planted in low and mid elevation areas, but only during the coolest months. Otherwise,
the roots will be fibrous, lighter in color, and deformed.

Carrots grows best in deep sandy loam soil rich in organic matter with pH ranging from 5.5 to 6.8.

Recommended Varieties
Practically, all varieties in the Philippines are of the Chantenay type. Open pollinated (OP) and hybrid
varieties are available commercially.

For mid and high elevation areas:

OP Varieties – Kuroda, New Koroda OP, Nikko Kuroda, KS Kuroda, Super Kuroda, New Kuroda Guson,
Kuroda Max, Kuroda Improved, Chunlong, Kuroda Selection, Kuroda Gold, Terracota, Kuroda EW 35,
Royal Chantenay

F1 Hybrids – Beniyama, S-505, Hybrid Sigma, Winter, All Season Cross, Rain Winner, Terracotta F1

For low elevation areas:

Kuroda strains such as EW 35 and Terracotta.

Land Preparation

The land should be plowed and harrowed several times until a fine filth is attained. Prepare raised beds
20cm high, 0.7-0.8m wide, and 0.3m apart. Pulverize the soil and incorporate fully decomposed chicken
at 3-5 t/ha and complete fertilizer at 3-5 bags/ha one week before planting.

Thorough field preparation is very necessary for the plant because it is small- seeded and usually planted
direct in the field. Crops planted in a well-prepared field seem to have better well-shaped, marketable
roots than plants grown in a poorly prepared soil which tend to have irregularly-shaped roots.

Crop Establishment
One hectare of carrots would require 6 to 8 kg seeds. The seeds are uniformly distributed in furrows and
covered with fine soil at about 2 cm thick. It may take about 2 weeks from sowing to complete the
emergence of the seedlings.

In low elevation areas, the best time to plant is from the last week of October up to February or during
the coolest part of the year. In the highlands, planting can be done through out the year.

Nutrient Management

The general fertilizer recommendation is 126 kg/ha N, 71 kg/ha P2O5, and 175 kg/ha K2O. However,
fertilization should be based on soil analysis. Apply organic fertilizers such as well decomposed manure
or compost at 3-5 t/ha 1-2 weeks before planting to contribute 60-100 kg NPK and micronutrients. The
remaining nutrient requirement can be applied at 30 days from sowing, just after weeding and thinning.
Cover the fertilizer with soil during hilling up. Tea manure and fermented plant juice (FPJ) may also be
used to improve soil fertility.

To prepare tea manure, soak ¾ sack of dried cow or horse manure in ¾ plastic drum (200-L capacity) of
water. Soak for 5-7 days with frequent stirring. Dilute tea manure in up to 20 parts water and spray on
the leavers at 1-2 weeks interval. To prepare FPJ, mix three parts chopped plant shoots or banana trunk
with one part raw sugar or molasses. Ferment mixture for 5-7 days. Dilute 1 part FPJ to 20-40 parts water
and drench on the plots or use as foliar fertilizer.

Water Management

Carrot needs a lot of moisture during the first 30 days of growth. Irregular watering leads to cracking and
forking. Water every 5-7 days or as needed.

Put mulch after planting and water the beds. Mulch with rice straws or any other mulching materials to
minimize weed growth and moisture loss. After two weeks or after the seeds have germinated, remove
the mulch and put mulch between rows.
Thinning and Hilling Up

Thinning is done to provide enough space to the growing roots. Start thinning at 30 days after sowing, at
a spacing of 10cm between plants. Hill up immediately after thinning to cover the sidedressed fertilizer.
Second weeding and hilling up is done 45 days after the first weeding.

Pest Management

Pests

Cutworm

Spray with biological insecticide such as Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt) and Nuclear Polyhedrosis Virus (NPV)
following the recommended rates. If needed, spray with inseticide like fipronil, fevalerate, permethrin, or
other registered chemicals following the recommended rates.

Mole Cricket

Use biological sprays such as Bt and NPV. Spray with pesticides such as diazinon following the
recommended rates. Use carbofuran following the recommended rates, as a last resort.

Slugs

Spread rice hull ash or slug pellets around the plots just to cover the soil

Aphids
Spray with hot pepper extract (100g macerated hot pepper / 16L water). If needed, spray carbaryl or
malathion following the recommended rates.

Armyworm

Spray with Bt following the recommended rates. Maintain populations of ground beetles and tachinid
flies. Spread ash baits along the field borders. If needed, spray recommended pesticide such as carbaryl,
fenvalerate, or malathion following the recommended rates.

Diseases

Powdery Mildew

Spray sulfur based fungicides or mancozeb following the recommended rates

Bacterial Soft Rot

Avoid injury to the roots during harvest and remove the infected roots.

Root-knot

Practice crop rotation with non-host crops like corn. Plant marigold by broadcasting the seeds in
between seasons. Plow under the marigold plants at land preparation. Marigold may also be
intercropped along borders and alleys.

Alternaria blight
Use resistant or tolerant varieties such as Terracotta and S-505. If infection is severe, spray appropriate
fungicides such as mancozeb and chlorothalonil following the recommended rates.

Harvest Management

Carrots can be harvested 2-3 months after sowing, depending on the variety used. Harvest the carrots if
the leaves turn yellowish and the roots are big enough. Loosen the soil using a spading fork then pull the
carrot roots carefully. Remove split roots. Haul the roots to the packing house immediately after harvest.
Yields are usually 20-30 t/ha under favorable and good management.

Postharvest Handling

Cut the leaves 5-8cm from the shoulder. Wash the roots and air-dry. Sort and classify according to size
and appearance. Roots that are cracked, deformed, and forked are considered non-marketable, but can
still be cooked or processed.

Pole Sitaw Production Guide

Pole sitao (Vigna unquiculata subsp. Sesquipedales (L.) Verdc.) has the following names: asparagus bean,
garter bean, snake bean, Chinese long bean, Yardlong bean (English); kacang panjang (Indonesian and
Malaysian); tao-fak-yao (Thai); dau-dau (Vietnamese); dau-gok (Chinese); lobia (Hindi); and sasage
(Japanese). Locally, it is known as sitaw (Tagalog), hantak (Waray), utong (Ilokano), batong (Cebuano) and
latuy (Marinduque).

A herbaceous crop, pole sitao has trifoliate leaves. The flowers are in pairs and borne on the axil of the
leaf which vary in color depending on the variety. Calyxes are generally green and purple. It is a viny
annual crop that produces 30-60 cm long pods which hang in pairs with many seeds. Pods are either
green, dark green, light green or purple. They are quick growing and every other day harvesting is often
necessary.

pole sitaw (488x434)


Pole sitao is an important crop in Asian countries like Malaysia, Thailand, Indonesia and the Plippines. It
is also considered as one of the most important vegetables in certain parts of Taiwan and China.

In the Philippines, pole sitao is the most popularly produced vegetable among edible legumes because
the pods, young shoots as well as the beans are available throughout the year. It is grown in home
gardens, on dikes around paddy fields, under partially shaded areas as a companion crop or commercial
crop.

The succulent young pods of pole sitao are eaten as whole pods and only need very light cooking. It can
also be a good supplement to infant food whether cooked singly or mixed with other vegetables. The
young leaves, shoots and sprouted seedlings can also be utilized as vegetables. Juices from the leaves are
used for some medicinal properties.

Bureau of Agricultural Statistics (BAS), 2010 showed that the total land area planted to pole sitao is 14,
681 hectares with a total volume of production of 119, 453.02 metric tons. Central Luzon has the highest
volume of production (32%), followed by Cagayan Valley (15%) and Davao Region (11%).

Pole sitao is a good source of protein, vitamin A, thiamin, riboflavin, iron, phosphorous and potassium. It
is also a very good source of vitamin C, folate, magnesium and manganese.

Pole Sitaw Production Guide – Growing Pole Sitaw

Varieties

In 1975, the Bureau of Plant Industry, Economic Garden, Los Banos, Laguna developed the firs
commercial variety of pole sitao known as BPI-Ps 1 and was approved by the Philippine Seedboard. At
present, BPI-LBNCRDC has six (6) varieties registered and released by the National Seed Indury Council
(NSIC) for commercialization. NSIC Ps 4 (“Hitik”) and NSIC Ps 5 (“Rikit”) are the latest pole sitao varieties
approved last 2008. The green podded varieties are BPI-Ps 3, BPI-Ps 4 and NSIC Ps 4 while the light gen
podded varieties are PSB-Ps 2 and NSIC Ps 5. Seeds of these five (5) varieties of pole sitao are available at
the Center.
A. Soil and Climate Requirements. Pole sitao is well suited in warm climate at a temperature range of 20-
35 oC. It can thrive well under full sunlight although it can tolerate partial shading. Higher percentage of
pod set can be achieved when planted in May for wet season and in October-November for dry season.
Any type of soil is suited to pole sitao production. However, a friable fertile soil is preferred to obtain
healthy growth and high quality pods. The soil must have a pH value of 5.5-6.8.

B. Varietal Selection – Planting right varieties adapted to a specific area may increase yield by as much as
20%. In the varietal selection, there are important considerations to look into:

a. Adaptability to soil and climate

b. Maturity

c. Yield

d. Disease resistance and insect tolerance

e. Market/consumers demand

C. Land Preparation. Thorough land preparation is important to obtain high yield since operation renders
the soil for seed germination. Plow the field twice and harrow after each plowing. For single row trellis,
make furrows one (1) meter apart and 0.75 meter for A-type trellis before planting. Apply 2-3 tons dried
animal manure per hectare while preparing the field.

D. Planting. The seeding rate for pole sitao requires 10-12 kg/ha. For hill method of planting, after basal
fertilization with organic and/or inorganic fertilizers, sow 2-3 seeds per hill with a distance of 30 cm
between hills and cover lightly with soil. Allow only 2 plants per hill. For drill method of planting, seeds
are planted at a depth of 2-3 cm at a rate of 15-18 seeds per linear meter with 100cm spacing between
rows.

E. Mulching. Use rice straw or plastic mulch particularly during dry season. This method helps to
suppress weed growth and to conserve soil moisture.
F. Cultivation. Off-baring and hilling-up should be done after 14 days from emergence or before the
plants start to cling on.

G. Trellising. In hill and drill methods of planting, provide poles after 14 days from emergence. Vertical
trellis is used for single row plot with a distance between rows of one (1) meter. Ipil-ipil, bamboo and
kakawate poles are used 3-4 m apart with in the rows and are secured on top with GI wire #16. Tie the
top wire to the stakes at the end of e rows to make the poles stable. Plastic straw is used at the bottom
portions in every row. Straw lines are tied vertically from top to bottom in every hill. For double row
plots, A-type trellis is spaced apart at 0.75 m. Synthetic straw is also used for the pole sitao to cling on for
the trellis.

H. Vine Training. As vines develop, train the crop to cling to the trellis by spreading them evenly across
the trellis until they reach the top.

I. Soil Nutrition. The general fertilizer recommendation for pole sitao is 135 kg/ha N, 135 kg/ha P205,
and 112 kg/ha K20. However, fertilization should be based on soil analysis. Before first plowing, apply 3
tons of well decomposed manure per hectare. Before planting, apply 3 bags/ha of 14-14-14 as basal
fertilizer and sidedress wi1-2 bags of urea (46-0-0) at 1 month after planting. Muriate of potash (0-0-60)
should be applied at the rate of 1-2 bags during flowering stage. Foliar fertilizers should also be

applied weekly starting at flowering stage.

J. Organic fertilizer: Fertilizer should be bio-degradable materials of microbial, plant or animal origins
produced on organic farms such as vermicompost and processed chicken manure. Basal applications
organic compost of 5-10 tons/ha are needed for vegetable legume crops. Supplementary application of
Fermented Plant Juice (FPJ) or Fermented Fruit Juice (FFJ) should also be applied twice a week up to
fruiting stage.

K. Irrigation. Pole sitao has a relatively deep root system which enables it to tolerate drought. Application
of water the critical growing period of the crop particularly during dry season is required to increase
yield. Adequate supply of water is necessary to increase flowering and pod setting. Too much water can
result in flower drop and ca cause root rot. During wet season, irrigate only when necessary.
L. Weed Management. Weeds may cause considerable yield loss if not controlled early in the season.
Hand weeding should be done as often as necessary even after flowering. Perform spot hand weeding.

M. Crop Protection. Insect control for pole sitao depends greatly on the use of chemicals especially
during seedling stage. Though there are attempts to practice integrated pest control especially through
cultural management practices.

N. Pest and Disease Management

pole sitaw 1 Pest Management

pole sitaw 2 Pest Management

pole sitaw 3 Pest Management

For effective control, use resistant varieties and other measures like crop rotation, rouging and pruning
of infected plant parts and planting of repellant and companion crops. Organic pesticides such as
citronella extract, guyabano seed extract, luyang dilaw and perla soap can also be utilized to control and
minimize pests for vegetable legume, and if needed, the use of chemicals/fungicides will be the last
resort in controlling pests and diseases of pole sitao.

O. Harvesting. The young and tender pods of pole sitao are ready for harvest 7-10 days after flowering.
Harvesting should be done at 2-3 days interval to prolong the productive life of the plants. Harvesting is
done manually. Harvest the pod by holding the stem end before twisting it free. To avoid weight loss,
harvesting should be done early in the morning or during the cooler times of the day. The pods should
be kept in a shaded area after harvest. To prolong the shelf-life, dip the harvested pods in coconut water
for 1 minute. In the Philippines, no attempt has been made to mechanize harvesting.

P. Post Harvest Handling. Separate the marketable and non-marketable pods. Marketable pods are

tender, straight, long and unblemished. Non-marketable pods are short, curved, damaged by insects or
diseases.; and past the picking stage but can still be utilized as vegetable. Pack the harvested pods in
plastic sacks, thick lined bamboo baskets, polyethylene bags or wrap with fresh banana leaves. If pole
sitao pods cannot be sold used for 1-3 days, store small quantities in moistened clay jars. Store pods at
12-15 oC for not more than 2 weeks at 90% relative humidity if cold storage facilities is available. Keep
the pods away from ripening fruits during transport and storage.

Seed Production

Except for isolation and rouging, the cultural management techniques in seed production are similar to
fresh pods production.

A. Isolation. The isolation distance depends on the nature of pollination of the crop, whether self or
cross pollinated. The isolation distance of pole sitao is 10-50 meters.

B. Field Inspection. It involves identification of a variety and removal of undesirable plants from the main
crop through a process termed rouging. The undesirable plants may be weeds, plant of other crop
species, plants of another cultivar of the same species, diseased plants and other off-type plants.
Rouging should be done at least three times: first at pre-flowering stage; second at flowering; and third
at pod formation.

C. Harvesting. Select plants that are vigorous and free from pests and diseases. Harvest pods when
physiologically mature or when pods have turned brown and begin to dry. Harvested pods at 20 days
after pollination will give the best quality seeds. It may be necessary to harvest 3 times a week at peak
harvest. Dry pods should not be allowed to remain in the field to prevent shattering during sunny days
rotting or sprouting of seeds within the pods during the rainy days. When dry pods remain longer in the
field, these are also being exposed to insect pests.

Place the harvested pods under the sun for 2-4 days until brittle. Threshing is carried on by beating pods
enclosed in net bags or sacks and manually beat with a stick. Separation of seeds from the threshed pods
is done by winnowing. Sort out small, wrinkled and seeds damaged by insect. Sun dry the seeds for 4-5
days. Before packaging and storage, seeds must have 10% moisture content (MC). Seeds must be packed
in thick plastic, containers or aluminum foil, label with the name of the variety and date of planting then
keep in a cool or storage area. In the absence of cold storage, seeds can also be stored in the refrigerator.
If properly stored, viability of the seeds becomes longer.
source: Bureau of Plant Industry

Variety Description (fresh)

a. Mistisa

potential yield: 30 tons/hectare (t/ha)

maturity: 55 days after transplanting (DAT)

fruits: medium long, striped light violet, have 1 week storage life, very good for “Pinakbet”

resistant to bacterial wilt, and moderately resistant to fruit borer, leaf hopper, and phomopsis ideal for
organic production

IPB-released variety

b. Mara

potential yield: 15 t/ha

maturity: 52 DAT

fruits: medium purple, shiny, medium long, with good storage life

resistant to green leaf hopper, moderately resistant to bacterial wilt

NSIC-released variety

Environmental Requirements

Eggplant belongs to the family of Solanaceae.

It can be produced throughout the year, but it is best planted at the tail end of the rainy season. This will
coincide with the long dry months of the year, promoting better fruit maturation and harvesting, and
avoiding fruit rotting.

Grows best with temperature range of 22-32°C. At extreme temperatures of 15°C and below, and 33°C
and above, flower fertilization and yield are significantly reduced.

Tolerates drought and excessive rainfall better than its relatives, tomato and pepper.
Cultural Management

a. Seedbed Preparation

Prepare a seedbed, seedbox, or tray.

Mix 1:1:1 garden soil, compost and sand, or 1:1 garden soil and coir dust.

Sterilize by heat, or drench the soil mixture with fungicide solution.

Saturate the soil with water.

Make horizontal rows 5 cm apart.

Sow the seeds in rows. Cover the seeds with soil, put mulch, and water gently (200-300 g of seeds is
needed per hectare).

b. Pricking

Prick the seedlings .5 days from seedling emergence, or when the cotyledons have fully opened and true
leaves have appeared.

For pricking in seedbeds, make raised beds 1 m wide.

Sterilize the soil by drenching with insecticide-fungicide solution to protect the seeds from ants and
damping-off.

Prick the seedlings 5 cm x 5 cm apart.

Construct polyvinyl plastic or protective structure to protect the seedlings from rain.

During hot days, provide a shade above the seedbed to protect newly pricked seedlings, and remove the
structure as the soon as the seedlings are established to avoid pale and lanky seedlings.

Pricking could also be done in seedling/plug trays with individual ‘cells’. Prick one seedling per ‘cell’.

Reduce watering 1 week before transplanting to harden the seedlings

c. Land Preparation

Prepare the land thoroughly by mechanical means or with the use of animal-drawn implements.
Make sure to break big clods of soil.

Make furrows 75 cm apart.

d. Transplanting

Transplant one seedling per hill 3-4 weeks from pricking or 1 week after hardening. Seedlings for
transplanting should be 3-4 inches high with 4-6 leaves.

Transplant seedlings 50-75 cm between hills and 75-100 cm between rows.

Irrigate the field immediately.

Transplant during cool or cloudy days, or late in the afternoon to avoid excessive heat during planting.

e. Fertilization

Apply organic fertilizer or compost or dried animal manure at the rate of 3-10 t/ha during land
preparation and incorporate it well with the soil.

Fertilizer rate depends on the results of soil analysis.

Without soil analysis, apply 1 tbsp (15 g) 14-14-14 per hill before or after transplanting, which is
equivalent to 8 bags/ha.

When basally applied, apply fertilizer in holes and cover with a thin layer of soil

21-25 days from transplanting, sidedress 2 tbsp (10 g) of a mixture of 2 bags of Urea (46-0-0) and 1 bag
Muriate of Potash (0-0-60).

Repeat sidedressing every month or after every 2-3 harvestings.

f. Irrigation

Follow furrow irrigation.

Irrigate every 10 days during dry season and when needed during rainy season.

If drainage is poor, construct a canal.

g. Weed Control and Management


Mulch with rice straw or black plastic sheets to reduce weed population.

Do not allow the weeds to flower and bear seeds.

Cut tall weeds if the plants are in the vegetative stage.

h. Insect Pest Management

Plant insect repellant plants like Amarillo, ginger, ‘kutsai’, and other aromatic plants.

Use organic pesticides like the juice of native hot pepper and soap.

Control fruit and stemborer by releasing earwigs, known predator of insect pests.

Spray recommended insecticides only if needed.

i. Disease Management

Prevent bacterial wilt by planting after rice or by crop rotation.

Prevent phomopsis by mulching with rice straw or black plastic sheet which prevents the soil to come in
contact with the leaves and fruits.

Avoid producing the seeds during wet season.

j. Isolation

To avoid cross pollination with other eggplant varieties, maintain an isolation distance of at least 200 m.

k. Roguing

Remove not true-to-type plants or plants of other eggplant varieties.

Rogue out plants that are infected with virus and remove fruits infected with phomopsis and
anthracnose.

l. Harvesting

Harvest when fruits have turned yellow-brown and have lost the pale violet color.
Post-Harvest Handling

a. Seed Processing

Soften the fruit by rolling them gently by foot on a flat floor or by beating the fruit gently with wood bat.
Apply just enough pressure so as not to crack the fruit.

Cut a small portion at the fruit peduncle end and open the whole fruit by hand to expose the seeds.

Submerge the fruits in a pail of water and press out the seeds from the fibrous tissues. Good seeds settle
at the bottom while the immature seeds float.

Discard immature seeds and tissues, and refill the pail with water.

Repeat the process until no seeds float.

Put clean seeds in net bags and air-dry for 2-3 days, then sundry for 4-5 days while turning the seeds
from time to time. Increase sun drying period as the seeds dry.

For oven drying, dry seeds initially to no more than 30°C, and increase it to 40°C as the seeds dry.

For dry sealed packaging, dry the seeds thoroughly.

Packaging/Storage

Dry seeds absorb moisture from the air. Use moisture resistant packaging materials such as thick
polyethylene plastic, aluminum-lined packets, tin cans, or glass jars. Seal well.

Seeds can be packed in paper packets but must be placed in large tin cans or wide-mouth glass jars with
desiccants such as charcoal, silica gel. calcium chloride, quick lime, or wood ash at the bottom.

Cover tightly.

Keep seeds away from moisture and high temperatures. The cooler and drier the area is, the longer the
life of the seeds.

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