LIPSTICK

Skin Structure of the Lips

What makes the lip more attractive than the regular skin:
The top corneum layer of the lip is about 3-4 layers
thick, very thin compared to typical face skin, generally
it has 15 to 16 layers.
 Skin Structure of the Lips
The lip skin contains very few melanin cells.
Because of this, the blood vessels more clearly
appear through the skin of the lips that gives a lovely
pinkish color of the lips.
 Skin Structure of the Lips
The lip skin has no hair follicle and no sweat
glands. Therefore it does not have the sweat
and body oil in protecting the lip from outside
environment.
 LIPSTICK
• Lipstick is a cosmetic product containing
pigments, waxes, oils, and emollients that
applies color, texture and protection to the lips

• The prime function of lip care preparation is to

prevent drying & cracking of the lips
 LIPSTICK
HOW LIPSTICKS WORK

Lipsticks are made from hydrophobic materials.

When the solid formula is applied to lip surface,
friction melts it briefly and allow for transfer. The
materials cools and reforms creating a film that
sticks to surface due to hydrophobic interactions.
Color is a key ingredient of lipsticks . It gives an
impression on lip surface. Silicones and oily
materials are also added to reflect light and provide
shine.
CHARACTERISTICS OF LIPSTICK
• Smooth and shiny appearance
• Freedom from sweating
• Suitable degree of firmness during reasonable
variations of climate temperature
• Retain plasticity without any tendency to dry-
out or crumble
CONSUMER EXPECTATIONS
Color

Appearance

Uniformity of color

Shelf life

Amount of pigmentation on first wear

Presence of any smudgy feel

Lasting powder

Whether or not lipstick glides on easily

LIPSTICK INGREDIENTS
• Base

• Liquid components

• Color materials

• Preservatives & other additives

 BASE
• Solid waxes
– Beeswax
– Carnauba
– Candelilla
– Ozokerite
• Softening agents
– Cocoa butter
– Lanolin (modified)
 WAX
• Best results are obtained by using a mixture of
waxes of different melting points and adjusting
the final melting point by adding a sufficient
quantity of a high melting point wax

• Formulation which contain a high concentration

of a single high melting point wax should be
avoided
 WAX
• White beeswax
– A useful agent to bind oils & high melting point
waxes
– the molten wax shrinks slightly on cooling
– Higher concentration gives a dull waxy appearance
& cause the stick to crumble during use
• Ozokerite wax
- Sticks containing more than 10% ozokerite tend to
crumble during application
 WAX
• Candelilla wax
– Gives a smooth and glossy appearance to a
lipstick if used at a slightly higher dosage
concentration than the proportion of beeswax

• Paraffin wax
- Show strong oil adsorption properties
 LIQUID COMPONENTS
OILS MIXTURE

The oil mixtures are required to blend

properly with waxes to provide a suitable
film on lips. It also acts as dispersing agent
for insoluble pigments. Ideal mixture is
one which enables the product to spread
easily
 LIQUID COMPONENTS
• Castor oil (most widely used)
• Mineral oil (gives gloss) (1-5%)
• Butyl stearate
• Oleyl alcohol
• Propylene glycol
• Isopropyl myristate (increases lip gloss)
• Silicone fluid (particularly dimethyl silicone)
 COLORS
The color of lipstick is most important commercial
and appealing view.
The color is panted to the lips by two ways:
+ By staining the skin with staining dyes (soluble
dyestuff) which can penetrate the outer layer of lip
skin. (acid eosin, and other halogenated derivatives of
fluorescein known as bromoacids)
+ By covering lips with colored layer (Insoluble
dyestuff and lake colors). Both inorganic, organic
pigments & metallic lakes are used (calcium, barium,
aluminium and strontium).
 COLORS
BROMO MIXTURE

It is essentially a solution of staining dye stuff in a fatty

material to enable the dyestuff to remain either wholly or
partially in solution. It is known as bromo acids consists of
fluorescens, halogenated fluoresceins and water
insoluble dyes. They are mainly of 2 types: Red bromo
acid: red in color and gives reddish stain. Orange red
bromo acid: orange red in color and gives pink and
yellowish pink stain. Solvents used are Tetrahydrofurfuryl
alcohol and esters Glycerol derivatives Propylene
glycol,triethylene glycol, propylene glycol.
 STAINING DYES
EOSINE
 COLORS
• Pigments: for intensity variation of color
• Titanium dioxide:
– Helps in obtaining pink shades
– Gives opacity
– High degree of brightness

A mix of staining dyes pigments and Tio2

(Titanium dioxide) is usually used in
lipstick preparation.
 COLORING MATERIALS

Ingredient Amount

Staining Dyes 0.5-3

Oil soluble pigment 2
Insoluble pigments 8-10
Titanium Dioxide 1-4
 OTHER INGREDIENTS
• Perfume
• Preservatives
• Antioxidants (BHA, BHT, propyl gallate)
• UV filters (benzophenone)
• Fats: Provides emollient and lubricating
effects (petroleum jelly, lanolin, paraffin oil
and cocoa butter)
Example of lipstick ingredients
Carnauba wax 10g
Bees wax 15g
Lanolin 5g
Cetyl alcohol 4g
Castor oil 62g
Candelilla wax 2g
Ozokerite wax 2g
Dye q.s
Perfume q.s
LIPSTICK PREPARATION

• Color preparation
• Melting & mixing
• Molding
• Flaming
• Packaging
LIPSTICK PREPARATION
 TYPES OF LIPSTICK
• Pearlescent lipstick

• High gloss lipstick

• Transparent lipstick

• Liquid lipstick

• Lipstick for hot countries

 PEARLESCENT LIPSTICK
• Pearlescent pigments possess optical effects
that serve decorative purpose

• Titanium dioxide flakes are not single crystals

but polycrystalline and slight porous

• Packed with vitamin E and castor oil for

continuous moisture
FORMULATION
BRANDS
 HIGH GLOSS LIPSTICK
• Gives lips a glossy luster & sometimes subtle
color

• Distributed as a liquid or solid

• Can be translucent, or various shades of

opacity
FORMULATION
BRANDS
 TRANSPARENT LIPSTICK
• It uses soluble or solublized dyes

• It uses suitable solvents such as

monoalkylolamide of mixed fatty acid or
dipropylene glycol methyl ether

• Provides a natural and a sophisticated finish

FORMULATION
 LIQUID LIPSTICK
• Provides more permanent films

• “smarting” is an issue that occurs on

application of these types of lipsticks
BRANDS
LIPSTICK FOR HOT COUNTRIES
• Enriched with herbal extract

• Hydrates & protects lips for hours

• Color pigment contain:

– Comfrey
– Plantago ovata seed
– Sambucus nigra seed
FORMULATION
BRANDS
EVALUATION OF FINISHED PRODUCTS
EVALUATION OF FINISHED PRODUCTS

• Color control
• Determination of melting point
• Softening point
• Microbial testing
• Rancidity
• Rupture test
• Breaking load test
 DEFECTS IN LIPSTICK

- Problems with ingredients

- Molding related problems

FORMULATION RELATED PROBLEMS

• Sweating: caused due to high oil content or in

ferior oil binding
• Bleeding: separation of color liquids from
waxy base
• Blooming: due to higher percentage of cetyl
alcohol
• Streaking: expected to be caused due to
titanium dioxide
Sweating Streaking Bleeding
 Molding related problems
• Laddering: lipstick does not look smooth or
homogeneous
• Deformation: noticeable in softer formulae
• Cratering: shows up flaming when stick
develops dimples
• Mushy failure: caused due to granularity of
carnauba wax
Laddering Deformation Cratering Mushy failure
Deformation occurring when coring
takes place on side of the mold
Beyond the beauty
Lip care
 Lip glosses
Lip glosses are quickly
becoming more popular
than lipsticks. In the past,
glosses were just for
teenagers, but now even
the most sophisticated
women of any age want
shiny, youthful lips.
 Lip care
Loving your lips is about
more than just color and
beauty—it’s total lip care.
– Contouring Lip Gloss
– Replenishing Lipstick
– Defining Effects®
Smooth Lip Liner
 Key benefits
The ultra shiny, longwearing gloss features oligopeptide
technology to define and contour the lips.

Contours lips, giving them shape and definition.

Stimulates collagen production in lip tissue for fuller looking

lips without irritation.

Provides ultra longwearing shine.

Supplies antioxidant protection for more youthful looking lips

 Key ingredients
– Palmitoyl oligopeptide—an oligopeptide technology
composed of three key amino acids that work to increase
collagen synthesis, improve elasticity and smoothness, and
enhance lip definition.

– Red raspberry (Rubus idaeus) seed oil—a powerful

antioxidant that contains high levels of vitamin E in its most
active form and protects lips against free radical damage to
keep them healthy looking and youthful.

– Dipalmitoyl hydroxyproline (DPHP)—an amino acid

synthesized in the body and essential for collagen building. It
also helps fortify lip tissue to increase moisture, helping
alleviate cracking and dryness for a smooth application.