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Basic garment pattern design and the development for the standard figure

Article  in  World Journal of Engineering · June 2014

DOI: 10.1260/1708-5284.11.2.171

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 Basic Garment Pattern Design and the Development
For the Standard Figure
*Amal Fayoomy A. Tahan .P hD**
Faculty of specific Education collage Faculty of Applied Arts.
Damietta University, Egypt
*[email protected] **[email protected]

Abstract

It is common that the measurements of any human Figure are differing from the others with same
size. Based on the parameters of flat curves and measurements of the flat pattern, using the parabola
curves as stating points between the armhole and the armscy geometrical approximation of the
garment is achieved by reshaping the surfaces of the flat pattern. Bearing in mind that, in reality
there is no such thing as standard or perfect figure, the formulas for constructing basic flat pattern
has designed and developed for the standard figure. The research is trying mathematically to solve
and overcome the problem of fitness and might put a step to solve this deficiency.

Key Words: patternmaking, armhole, armscy

Introduction
In sewing and fashion design, a pattern is an original garment fro m which other garments of a similar
style are copied. It can also refer to the paper or cardboard templates from wh ich the parts of a
garment are traced onto fabric before cutting out and assembling (sometimes called paper
patterns).The making of industrial patterns begins with an existing block pattern that most closely
resembles the designer's vision. Once the style has demonstrated sales potential, the pattern is graded
for sizes. Once these steps have been followed and any errors corrected, the pattern is approved for
production. When the manufacturing company is ready to manufacture the style, all of the sizes of
each given pattern piece are arranged into a marker, usually by computer. If it proves to be quite
popular – the pattern of this style will itself beco me a block, with subsequent generations of patterns
developed from it.
By definit ion, ready-to-wear garment (RTW) is developed and offered for sale before potential
costumer select and try on style of interest. Ho wever, most sizing systems are derived fro m (ASTM
D6458-99) .Even though; individual firms have always interpreted the standards differently in order
to distinguish their garment fro m their co mpetitors. Some people might be lucky enough to have their
proportions being very close to the RTW values. This simp ly means that mass production apparel will
fit these people pretty well. Other people, who are not that lucky (Susenne et al 2005, Simmos 2004),
will have difficult ies finding a good fit in RTW. Since everybody is different, there is no such thing
as a perfect formula for every type of figure, wh ich is why it is custom design (Haute Couture 2009).
The patterns, therefore, co mmonly are constructed using specific formu las.
Pattern adjustment is the term used in the home sewing industry to refer to a variety of methods used
to change dimensions of the paper pattern to more closely approximate the measurements of the
wearer.
A sleeve pattern for example, may be lengthened or shortened according to the measured length of
the person’s arm. Modifying garment length and width to accommodate cup size at the bust is also a
common adjustment. A mount of ease for co mfort and style are factored at making pattern
adjustments. Improved fit fro m adjusted patterns may seem a logical result; however, the process of
adjusting patterns requires advanced skills that typically require specific training or experience.
However, most home sewers likely have limited access to gaining these skills. Hypothetically,
therefore, typical home sewers might not have the skills to accomplish good fit of home-sewn
apparel. However, the scenario of a home sewer therefore, investing considerable time and money to
make a garment and then being frustrated with the fit is a very likely and an unfortunate outcome.
It is therefore useful to investigate factors that could contribute to satisfaction or dissatisfaction with
pattern fit and final outcomes fro m adjusting patterns to improve garment fit.
The priority of the research is put some steps to solve the pattern deficiency of the different styles
where is still experienced hand-drafted method or even computerize in the industrial mass production.
Previous Work

1
In the 1980s the home sewing industry in the USA suffered a downturn, which limited home sewing
pattern selection available to the home sewer. The three major patterns companies – Simplicity,
McCall’s, and Butterick – were each acquired in leveraged buyouts. An indication of the level of
change was seen when Simplicity and McCall’s were sold mu ltiple times.
It is not surprising that a study was reported that 50-to-62% of wo men claim they cannot find apparel
that fits (Simmos, 2004 part I, II). Apparel sizing and fit are difficult concepts to research and analyze
where the relationship between the body and clothing is complex and often-amb iguous (Keiser et al.,
2003). The current method of creating size and analy zing garment fit are according to the
measurements of one ideal customer embodied in a single fit model .Moreover, adjusting the
additional sizes consequently by using grade rules to define proportional increases and decreases
fro m the base pattern. By different research (Locker 2004), evaluation of the fit model could be
visually with two dimensions as comparing linear garment measurements to linear body
measurements. Although these methods are useful for evaluating simple garment fit issues, they are
not adequate to investigate the complexit ies of multifaceted relationship between the body and
clothing for large nu mber of customers with a variety of body types within each size.
It was developed a method called ‘v isual semato metry’ (Helen, 1977), wh ich was aimed to improve
the fit of costume made apparel. Technology has led to the development of non-contact measurement
McKinnon et al., 2001, Devarajan, 2004.The emergence of sophisticated 3-dimentional body
measurements technologies (Tahan et al., 2002) and apparel CA D system has allowed major apparel
retailer to use made-to-measure as a viable marketing tool.
Hardy et al., 1976. Have been seeking to present a new methodology to generate basic patterns of
various sizes and styles using three-dimensional geometric modeling method. The geometry of a
garment is divided into fit zone and fashion zone. The geometry of fit zone is prepared from 3D body
scan data and can be resized parametrically. The fashion zone is modeled using various parameters
characterizing the aesthetic appearance of garments. Finally, the 3D garment model is projected into
corresponding flat panels considering the physical properties of the base material as well as the
reducibility of the garment. The main findings were geomet ric modeling and flat pattern generation
method for various garments. Parametrically, deformable garment models enable the design of
garments with various size and silhouette so that designers can obtain flat patterns of comp lex
garments before actually making them. A lso the number and direction of darts can be determined
automatically considering the physical property of fabric.
Parametrically deformable garment models enable the design of garments with various size and
silhouette so that designers can obtain flat patterns of comp lex garments before actually making them.
Also the number and direction of darts can be determined automatically considering the physical
property of fabric.
Ko márková et al., 2010. Led a research of maternity where pattern construction has been carried out
by taking body measurements in relation to anatomical changes of female body during matern ity.
Eventually, the Results are applied into metric pattern construction of maternity clothes as
Anthropometric data is analyzed as processed by statistical methods and correlation between body
measurements. In case of different types of maternity wear the results applied for determination of
pregnant women types. The data input as construction parameters setting to differentiate the body
proportion of pregnant women. The princip le of pattern construction of clothes for pregnant women is
to consider the changes related to pregnancy as standard used method of pattern construction.
Roger et al., 2007.Reported that dynamic ease allo wance is the amount of spacing between the
garment and the wearer that is required to allow the wearer to performance certain posture.
Furthermore, without sufficient dynamic ease allowance, the motion of the wearer will be restricted.
In this article, the authors present a single parameter model, which aims to calculate the minimal
surface needed for performing some required postures. They emphasized that the min imal surface
must pass through both end points (wrist and waist) and the collocation point (armhole). Sungmin et
al., 2007. , have found that, the generation of individually fit basic garment pattern is one of the most
important steps in the garment-manufacturing process. They have developed a new methodology to
generate basic patterns of various sizes and styles using three-dimensional geometric modeling
method. They found that a piece of garment can restrict the movement of the wearer. The position of
the last point of the armhole line is the crucial parameter that determines the dynamic ease allowance.
Experiments have been conducted and the source of error most likely co mes fro m the fact that the
sleeve of the trial cover all garment cannot be stretched fully into a straight line.
By the technique of photographic data and computer technology, (Shen et al., 1993) have explo res the
geometric nature of the upper female torso and physical measurements, to develop bodice patterns.
By provid ing data for 12 female subjects participating in the study, they used the body measurements,
in addition to front and side view photographs. These data were used to develop the experimental

2
methodology and a computer program to generate slopper patterns for the upper female torso. To
compare the fitness between the experimental and hand-drafted bodices they used a conventional
pattern drafting method to develop hand-drafted bodice patterns. Eventually, an evaluation scale,
which included 25 fitting criteria, was developed. They found that 12 of the 25 items on the scale, the
experimental bodices judgment have a better fit than those produced by the hand-drafted method.
They added that, this methodology shows potential for provid ing accurate, quickly-generated bodice
patterns.
Cynthia. 1989, has reported that, Manufacturers have been struggling to meet the desires and needs of
their customers without sacrificing the efficiencies and profits gained through mass production. On
other words, every CAD system used in apparel patternmaking has some method that would enable
mass customizat ion through automatic alteration of patterns based on individual measurements.
An automatic customize garments for fit, (Bye and McKinney, 2010) have carried out a research
trying to develop a “good fit” for garments customer satisfaction, comfort, and functionality as well
as a manufacturer's success and reputation. They tried using live and three-dimensional scan models
as an alternative to the traditional fit analysis. They proposed a three-dimensional (3D) geometrical
modeling algorith m based on the mapping of 2D objects on a 3D model. They reported that the
methodology can be applied to the automatic modeling of many “secondary” garment parts like
collars, waist bands, pockets, etc. However, the results obtained are accurate in relat ion to the original
flat patterns, where, their approach is oriented towards the automation of the process of 3D garment
modeling fro m flat patterns, minimizing user intervention in the modeling process. Furthermore, this
research evaluates garments on a live fit model and makes recommendations for the acceptance or
modification of the garment for production.
Newco mb and Istook, 2011. Have led a research for ho me sewers attending home sewing to
determine satisfaction with fit of home sewing patterns. On the other hand, to conduct factors that
may affect satisfaction with the patterns. They clearly indicate that these respondents were frustrated
with the fit of home sewing patterns .Their patterns adjustment for better fit, were typically not
successful. Although that they emphasized on the research limitations ,the application sample does
not allow generalizat ion, but may lend some insight into problems of the ho me sewing pattern
industry .However, accordingly, it may have attracting and maintain ing customer loyalty.
In spite of the computer system for made-to-measure pattern production should have the capability of
determining default for sets of customer measurements, but one or more of these measurements are
missing Chiricota, 2003. Reco mmended the use of default formu lae rather than mathemat ical
interpolation of size charts. In addition to, she postulated that these default formu lae, when applied to
a given size chart set, enable measurements to be determined efficiently over wide ranging customer
sizes in both stature and girth. Although, she derived her research on the German DOB charts on
regular and outfit size charts, beside the full range of height categories and bust to hip relationships,
the specific default formu lae has been applied in the Micro Fit made-to-measure system fro m
Garment Micro Systems. The system implemented for checking the validity of measurements entered
into the system for each ind ividual customer.
La Bat and De Long 1990; La Bat 1997; La Bat and Salusso, 2007. Conducted a research by focusing
on examining the home sewers’ satisfaction with the fit of apparel produced from ho me sewing
patterns. They recommended that the new technologies in computer pattern fit methods may provide
easier and faster methods for sewers wishing to use custom fit patterns. However, St ill the question
that, how much would a sewer be willing to pay for such a service.
Schofield et al., 2006. Have shown that women are least satisfied with the fit of pants.
Turner and Bond, 1999. Have guided a research study determines the inadequacies of ASTM sizing
standards for the needs of consumers where d ivided at three target groups, segmented by age: Juniors,
Missy, and Over 55 years old.
Chiricota et al, 2001. Has derived a research for fast three-dimensional approximat ion of clothing
fro m flat patterns where his approach was imp lemented in a CAD program as currently used in the
industry. As based on the parameterization of flat polygonal curves and measurements, whilst,
reshaping the surfaces of the garment and by using some curves as stating points, a geometrical
approximation is achieved. They applied these methods to model at different elements inherent to the
field of clothing design, such as collars, lapels and waistbands. The algorithm methodology utilized,
is made up of two parts. First, the polygons used to represent the pattern as measured. Second, a
three-dimensional frame made up of spline curves that represent the garment, fro m 2-D
measurements, is constructed. These curves are then used to form the Coons surfaces, which
eventually serve as the initial conditions for a physical simulat ion.
The research of: Newco mb and Istook, 2004. Carried out by using body shape analysis software as
FFIT fo r Apparel, Size USA data and ASTM measurement data and analyzed for each of the three

3
age groups. This methodology could allow for a greater understanding of the body shapes of target
consumers. The research emphasized on the revisions of the ASTM sizing standards. Based on the
Size of USA data, it would imp rove the fit of clothes, whilst, imp rove customer satisfaction, and
enhance the business performance of apparel retailers as well.
Agins, 1994. Has used an apparel program manager for the U.S. Navy, where "quality control people
at women's and children's apparel manufacturers revealed that the highest number of garments
returns retailers, is because of size and fit. However, a focus simp ly on returns does not give a true
indication of the fit problem.
Harms et al., 2010. Presented and validated a comprehensive modeling and simu lation framework to
predict recognition performance in casual loose-fitting garments. This research introduced a
fundamental challenge limit ing informat ion quality obtained from s mart sensing garments .The
obtained informat ion has a quit influence of text ile movement relative to limbs. Furthermo re, where
a metric was derived to assess fitting, the body-garment mobility submitted a statistical posture and
wrinkle-modeling approach to simulate sensor orientation errors pertained to local garment wrinkles.
The fundamental research based on analyzing simu lations of shoulder and elbow rehabilitation
postures with respect to experimental data. By using actual casual garments, their conclusion
confirmed congruent performance trends with estimation errors below 4% for all study participants.
The approach allows estimat ing the impact of fitting before imp lementing a garment and performing
evaluation studies with it. On the other hand, relating to performed body posture, utilized sensing
modalities, and garment fitting, they argued that the simu lations revealed critical design parameters
for garment prototyping. Moreover, that the modeling approach can substantially expedite design and
can assist development of smart garments through early-stage performance analysis.
Beazley, 1997. Exp lained in her researches how to undertake an anthropometric survey, to obtain
sizing and fitting systems .She recommended that, special knowledge is required to analyze
statistically body measurements fro m surveys by control measurements, size ranges, body proportions
whilst size intervals have to be calculated. She conducted a survey of 100 young women was
undertaken in 1993/98 at Manchester Metropolitan University where 10 body measurements were
taken. She submitted two examp les of body measurement tables covering 30 measurements where
formulated to illustrate the procedure. The results were analyzed statistically for body measurements
especially in s mall surveys. Beazley, 1998. Has used the result to illustrate the statistical analysis of
body measurements for the formulat ion of sizing systems and body measurement charts. Sizing
systems were suggested for three heights short, mediu m and tall and bust fittings mediu m, s mall and
very small. A further system of changing proportion in girth measurements was developed fro m the
survey of young women based on percentiles and bust fittings. The neck girth which did not correlate
strongly with any measurement was analyzed separately.
Beazley, 1999.Continued her study by comparing the problems of taking accurate body
measurements with different equip ment, formu lating size charts for different garments and fabrics
and relating these to different systems of pattern construction. Although she emphasized that the
coding of sizes is still not uniform but finally, she applied these results for testing prototype garments
for size and fit.
Wright, 2001. Declared that a comfortable, attractive garment supposed to fits properly. It is neither
too large nor too small and conforms to the contours of the body without binding, sagging, straining,
or wrinkling. . Fitting problems usually involve one or more of these basic body areas: neckline, bust
line, hipline, arms, shoulder line, back waistline, abdo men.
Pattern adjustment or alteration is often necessary to achieve good fit in a garment whilst, making
adjustments or alterations before the garment is cut fro m fabric will eliminate many problems
In spite of, working out new procedures and organizing work efficiently, especially at the familiarity
of types of patters, Hollen, 1981.Exp lained that knowledge of pattern will give increased
understanding of such things as garment fitting, altering, correcting erro rs that might occur.
Based on body shape and fit preference, Anderson et al., 2001. Reco mmended that fashion
innovativeness and satisfaction with RTW and demographic variables were used to profile groups
females. Length and tightness were the most common comp laints for problems of fit with RTW
regardless of the location. Results were significantly higher for having mult iple rather than singular
fit problems. Overall, female respondents who felt better about their bodies were more likely to select
fitted clothing. Clothing benefits such as fashion innovativeness, fashion image and figure flaw
compensation were associated with body shape and fit preference.
Drafting pattern: -
Th is type of pattern is the issue of the present research which is an engineering approach based on a
set of the body measurements bearing in mind, the accuracy of the pattern depends on the accuracy of
the measurements.

4
Experi mental work
The ability to customize garments for garment fit is directly restricted to the availability of a
comprehensive, accurate set of measurements. To obtain accurate physical measurements, a basic
knowledge and set of skills are required that are hardly found in the average salesperson at a retail
clothing outlet. The development of technology may have significant potential for use in the apparel
industry, particularly for customizat ion or mass customization strategies to be employed.
Regarding to the sleeves and Strictlylly speaking, the hand is composed of the upper and lower arm
which is covered by a sleeve. The sleeves can be set-in or grown-on. Set-in sleeve means that the
sleeve is a separate piece of fabric sewn to the bodice of the garment at the armhole wh ile the grown-
on sleeve is an extension of the bodice. The generic sleeve is, therefore, defined to cover the arm
fro m shoulder to wrist. The shape of the sleeve can restrict the movement of the arm where main
cause of the restriction is due to the shape of the armhole of the sleeve. In fact, the most accurate and
the minimu m steps should manipulate with the style of pattern, which require restriction of any major
alteration.
Application
The research intended to use the pattern of female standard Measurement (ESCO, 2002) size 40.
Using the style of Go ldsworthy, 1980, hand draft pattern. Regarding to the accuracy, the pattern has
carried out by the computer CAM system (Invostronica systems format.
The facility of using the computer program is to measure any length on the pattern itself (fig 1) as
reported at table (1), where it was intended to measure the length of WA (AC) and JN (AB) on the
front and back pattern respectively Fig(2,3). It is known that all blocks automatically include the
minimu m amount of ease needed to accommodate comfortable movement. The amount of ease for
each measurement is indicated on screen command informat ion where the measurements reported.
The indicated amount is automatically added to the measurement to the entered data. It’s easily to
increase or decrease the ease through adjusting the measurements as required.
The results reported at table (1) showed that, the front curved armhole length (on the pattern Fig (2)
does not show the same of front curved length on the sleeve at Fig (3),in the meantime, the back
armhole curved length JN Fig (2) does not the same of the back AB armscy curved length Fig (3).
Co mputer measurement differences between front armhole length and front armscy length is 17%
whilst back armhole length and back armscy length is 4.7% .On the other hand, the straight line
length of JN armhole and the straight line length of AC sleeve is 28% difference. Lastly, length of AB
and length of WA is 13% difference. This is not the computer mistaken, but the common deficiency
of the flat pattern itself, and it is thought that the whole styles of pattern varied from one to the others
according to complicity of the man ipulation wh ilst, depend on the styles of the pattern itself.
The measurement logically, supposed to show that JN=WA = AC=AB as straight line, which is not,
Just almost AC=A B whilst WA is longer than JN with almost 3.3 cm. this is really not accepted
because this type of engineering style and the default will affect the entire pattern. According to these
results, it is most of interest to work out for a new formu la to solve mathematically this deficiency.

The mathematical anal ysis

Assumpti on
The length of line JKWN in the back pattern side, in Fig (1) is supposed to be equal the length of line
AHGFB Fig (2) armsy.The length of line WA Fig (1) suppose to be equal the length of line AJKLC
Fig (2) armho le, bearing in mind that the line AB is same of line JN in the back pattern. Assume that
each line will be divided in two parts each equal 4 α where α≠ 0 and α is a real number. In the front
pattern, the line AC is the same of the line WA. Suppose the line AB and the line AC Fig (2) equals
the X-axis as shown at the sketch of Fig (3& 4).
Because the dress fitting problem is experienced not the same length between the crown of the sleeve
and the length of the armhole of the back and front of the block, the curved line AHGFB (back b lock)
and the curved Line AJKLC (front block) each will be divided in two curves as shown in Fig (3, 4) by
the dotted lines, one part is upward and the other is downward. Suppose that the equation of half of
the sleeve crown is: Y=ƒ(X) where only real nu mber will be used. The normal system of equation of
Correlation is parabola and will be represented by equation (1) for the curves of both back and front
pattern upward and the downward parts as well as follows.
Y = a + b x +c x2 …….. ……. (1)
Where a, b and c are constant real numbers.
Fro m the pattern design as assumed that the length of AB=AC Fig (2).The nu mber of reading points
on the curve =3 as was determined according to the shaping of the sleeve head as the style has been
drawn .The coordinate, therefore , will be as: (2, 0) & (1, 3.5 α) & (0, 4 ) for the back Armscy.

5
Assuming that the origin of the curve started at the first of the highest point of the crown, i.e., at point
(H). Substituting in equation (1), where the summat ion of the values is ∑ of each colu mn at table (2).

To know the constant values of a, b and c, it is required to have three equations as follow:

n a + b ∑x+ c ∑x 2 = ∑y ………… …… (2)

a∑x +b∑x2 +c∑x3 = ∑xy ……… …………… (3)
a∑x2 +b∑x3 +c∑x4 = ∑x2 y…………………. (4)

For the estimation of the upward part of the curve of the armscy and solving the three equations (2, 3,
and 4) together with the by using the matrix .By substituting the values of x and y from table (2), the
matrix man ipulated to find the constant parameters; then:

The parameters (a, b, c) will be equal:

a =2.024 & b =0.415 α-1 and c = - 0.219 α-2
Then equation (1) will be as:

Y=2.024+ 0.415. ……….. ..(5)

At X= 2α, X= 3α and x= 4 α
The new values are 1.978 cm instead of 2 cm wh ilst 1.3 cm instead of 1.0 and 0.18 cm instead 0 cm at
the end of the curve.
For the downward curve of the Armscy whilst bearing in mind that the intersection point will be
assumed to be in the middle of the second division of the X-axis (- 0.5, α).
With reference to the known shaped point on the downward curve, the assumed points were
determined as:
(0, 0) & as shown in table (3)

Substituting values from table (3) to equations (2, 3, and 4) and solving those equations together by
the matrix and obtain the constant parameters (a, b, c). It was found as:

a = - 0.482& b = 0.925 α-1 and c = 0.891 α-2

Then equation (1) will be as:

Y= - 0.482 (6)
This equation covered the curve (the armhole path) for the downward division of point (L) fig (2),
whilst the pervious equation (5) covers the upper curve of the armhole path.
At X=α .The new value of Y= 1.334 cm instead of 0.5 that’s mean the curve is going to be deep and
longer with 62.5% fro m the basic line.
By choosing the same steps on the path of the armhole for each side of the front Armscy and
by solving equations 2, 3, 4 together by the matrix and obtain the constant parameters (a, b, c). It was
found as:
a = 3.465 & b = 0.932 α-1 and c = - 0.283 α-2
Then Y= 3.465+0.932
At X= 2α, X= 3α and x=4 α
The new values of Y= 2.52cm instead of 2.5 cm (i.e. 26%), 1.2 cm instead of 1.0 (i.e. 20%) and 0.69
cm instead of 0 at the end of the curve.
For the smallest curve of the Armscy and by solving equations 2, 3, 4 together and obtain the constant
parameters (a, b, c) the new values are:
a = - 2.48 & b = 0.053 α-1 and c = 0.031 α-2
Then equation (1) will be

6
 Y= - 2.48 +0.053
At X=α
The new value of Y= 2.39 cm instead of 1.5 cm (59.3%) that’s mean the curve is going to be deeper
and longer also, bearing in mind that, the basic pattern is not dealing with the thickness of the fabric.
This factor depends on the experience and professionality of the cutting and marker makers. It has to
be considered with the other variab les.

Conclusion
An important first step in understanding patterns is the mastery of the basic concept. However, it is
basically understand that the Perfect style pattern never achieved in minutes even by experienced
pattern cutters. One of the most important attributes of a good cutter, eventually, is the simplicity of
man ipulating such style patterns to extend their use. Suggestions, therefore, made where appropriate
for using perfected style patterns as basic for other styles. However, the correct style of pattern should
not need any major alteration, which is not true. The suggestion has been made by the present
research might be to somehow solve the problem without any significant alterat ion.
The present research is a door open to other researcher to carry on that direction to minimize the
wo men co mplain fitness.

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