Livelihoods May 2011
Livelihoods May 2011
May 2011
Indian Handicrafts
G Muralidhar
the ‘livelihoods’ team
‘livelihoods’ team 10
Indian Handicrafts..
Editor-in-Chief G Muralidhar
Principal Editor T Nirmala India is known globally for its rich heritage of Arts and Crafts. The
handicrafts sector enjoys a special significance in the country's
Senior Editor K Bharathi economy in terms of employment generation and earnings of
Working Editor T Venkateshwarlu foreign exchange through exports.
Thanks for sending me the Livelihoods Magazine. I must tell you, with time the content,
professional touch and perspectives on issues related with livelihoods have come up
well. Let me tell you, it fills a very important gap in information and knowledge related to
livelihoods! Congratulations for making it better and better with time.
I hope, in the coming days, livelihoods must also include the dialogue on civil society
issues related to its engagement with social transformation, rights based approaches,
etc. This issue has begun a beginning and I wish all the best.
With regards,
Rajendran
Happy
Mothers’
Day
8 May
She had schooling in Banaras (Varanasi) which was Pupul appointed as Indira Gandhi’s cultural adviser. She
started by Annie Besant, theosophist who was also active became the executive director and later chairman, of the
in Indian freedom movement. Subsequently her father got Handicrafts and Handloom Corporation of India. From
posted to Allahabad, where she first came in contact 1974 for three years she chaired the All India Handicrafts
Nehru family at age fifteen, as her father was a friend of Board (HHEC). She initiated the Festivals of India
Motilal Nehru. Subsequently she became friends with organized in London, Paris and America lasting several
Indira Gandhi. When she was eighteen, she left for months and Apna Utsav (“our festivals”) in early 1980s.
England to train as a journalist in Bedford College in She encouraged several painters and artists who are today
London, before graduating in Economics from the London household name in India. She was good organizer,
School of Economics in 1936. tirelessly promoting local hand-loom and handicraft
She married Manmohan Jayakar, a barrister in 1937 and products and established Indian National Trust for Art and
settled down in Bombay. She launched one Toy Cart, an Cultural Heritage (INTACH 1984) which was basically
english language children’s magazine illustrated by Jamini working on Art and Cultural Heritage. It was struggled to
Roy and M. F Hussain, two of India’s best-known painters. find a space for itself in the first decade. It identified
In 1940, she was appointed to the National Planning architects, researchers, volunteers who believed in
Committee headed by Prime Minister Nehru. In the course restoration and conservation of this multi-layered heritage,
of those year, she met Gandhiji twice, went to Sevagram and over the years, INTACH took on conservation studies
was exposed to Gandhian atitude. She admired him for the and projects and gradually established itself across India.
‘precision of his mind, his understanding of the nuts and She also opened several design workshops, devised
bolts of development’. marketing strategies to develop traditional crafts and
In 1942, the Quit India movement took her to the forefront started the National Crafts Museum in the late Eighties
of the agitation for freedom but a sudden attack of and, in 1990, the National Institute of Fashion Technology
appendicitis followed by surgery, kept her away from any in New Delhi. She traveled extensively to remote places in
active participation. Though she got chance to contest in India, seeking out local handicrafts and traditional skills
the elections in 1947, she declined. During this time she and was a cultural chameleon, at home in contrasting
met philosopher and theosophist Jiddu Krishnamurti and setting.
became a good disciple of him. Then she became involved Pupul Jayakar was one of the enduring supporters of the
in the handloom industry. She established the Weavers Hungry Generation literary movement in Bengal, India and
Service Centre in Chennai under the Ministry of Textiles. had helped the Hungryalists during their trial during 1961.
From 1959 on, Pupul worked towards moulding her ideas She was active with the Krishnamurti Foundation in India
and beliefs into reality. Jawaharlal Nehru invited her to until her death. She helped in the establishment of the
study the handloom sector and workout plans for its Krishnamurti Foundation in India, U. S. A., England and
revival, eventually she served as the Chairman of All some Latin American countries. She also played a great
Indian Handloom Board and Handicrafts and Handlooms part in running the Rishi Valley School at Madanapalle,
Chittoor District of Andhra Pradesh.
Livelihoods of ‘Sundarbans’
West Bengal in India is home to the world’s largest delta
and mangrove forests, the Sundarbans. The 20000 sq km
forest delta stretches across the lower reaches of the
Bengal basin. While 60 per cent of Sundarbans is in
Bangladesh the rest is in West Bengal in India. Between
India and Bangladesh, Sundarbans cover about one million
hectares of land and water. Sundarbans act as South
Asia’s largest ‘carbon sinks’. The Indian Sundarbans
occupy about 9630 square kilometer in the North and
South 24 Paraganas of West Bengal and are bounded by
River Muriganga in the West, River Raimangal in the East,
Bay of Bengal in the South and Dampier Hodges line in the
North. There are 102 islands of which 54 are inhabited by
about 4 million people.
are available in this region, but the availability of fish has
Although gazetted as a reserved forest, the Sundarbans been gradually decreasing during the recent years.
currently provides more employment, more revenue and
more income from non-wood forest produces (Golpata, , One of the major aquatic destruction activity in Sunderbans
honey, grass etc.), fisheries resources (shrimp fry, fin fish, region is the collection of Shrimp fry which is done by both
crabs, shells) and herbal medicinal plants. men and women. A vast majority of the landless
households living in this region are involved in shrimp fry
It was observed that the majority of people in Sundarbans collection. Though this activity is contributing significantly
are engaged as agricultural labour (66-79%). It was also to the incomes of households, the prolonged fishing
observed that agriculture, in spite of being the main periods with the nets lead to the long-term negative impact
occupation of the people in Sundarban, is not high yielding to the aquatic bio-diversity and reduction in fish production.
(only 10 quintals per hectare for the main crop) due to
salinity of the soil, which prevents optimum growth of Beetle leaf cultivation, livestock rearing, shell craft making,
agricultural crops. Around 50% of agricultural laborers are small enterprises are some of the other important
landless. Therefore, the Reserve Forest area serves as the livelihood activities of Sunderban region. Some people also
buffer for their survival and though the percentages of migrate to other parts of the country to work as labour
NTFP collectors are less (varying from 6-9%), the mainly in the construction industry.
contribution of NTFPs is enormous in the total annual Tourism is also generating livelihoods to a good number of
household income (79%). people in this region. The bio diversity of the region with its
The livelihood of nearly 2 million people is linked with the rich flora and fauna offers scope even for eco-tourism and
non-agricultural sources, which mainly include fishing and health tourism.
allied activities from the rivers and creeks as one of the The livelihoods of Sunderbans are facing high risk due to
major sources of income. However, Sundarban being a the increased occurrences of coastal floods and coastal
biosphere reserve and is a protected area under the IUCN erosion. The proportion of consumer rupee realized by the
Category 1A imposes several restriction for the collection people of this area for their produces is very low due to
of the NTFPs from forest areas. But, certain relaxations isolation, lack of infrastructure and the characteristic
have been made for the collection of few specific NTFPs, behavior of the nature.
which are mostly animal based like honey, fishes and
crabs. Nearly 19-25% of the households are engaged in A typical household of this area lives in high risk of loss of
fishing activities while 15-20% are engaged in honey employment, loss of produce and income and expenditure
collection. without incomes, in addition to lower productivity in kharif.
Self-supporting collective diversification mechanisms to
Collecting the leaves and fruits of Golpata is another help one another in times of distress, survival support
important livelihood of the people at Sundarbans. Golpata during the crisis, embankment maintenance funds,
or Nypa palm (Nypa fruticans) is a versatile species of ‘shelters’ for people and produce etc., will be useful.
palm tree. Economically it is the most important source of
non-wood produce of plant origin. Golpata collection starts Biodiversity of Sundarbans and Mangroves offer scope for
from mid November to mid March. Honey and Bee wax producing a variety of herbs that have local use and
are also collected in the Sunderban forests which is mostly market outside. Local value addition of the products,
done by the poorest sections of the community. vocational training to women and youth are some of the
options that can be considered for improving livelihood
Fishing is yet another important livelihood which is mostly opportunities for the people of Sunderbans.
done from mid June to mid August. Large varieties of fish
Indian Handicrafts
India is known globally for its rich heritage of Arts and Crafts. The handicrafts sector
enjoys a special significance in the country's economy in terms of employment generation
and earnings of foreign exchange through exports. Many agricultural and pastoral
communities depend on their traditional craft skills as a secondary source of income in
times of drought, lean harvests, floods or famine. In the era of Globalization and
mechanization, protecting and preserving the traditional skills of Indian artisans while
ensuring that they provide viable livelihood option for their owners is a great challenge.
“livelihoods” attempts to understand the problems, challenges and opportunities that are
associated with the Indian Handicrafts sector.
found in India. Embroidery is done too on leather, felt and wood articles. The intricately carved stoneware made of
velvet etc. This segment of the industry accounts for marble, alabaster or soapstone, etc., inlaid with
almost half a million strong employment in addition to a semiprecious stones carry on the heritage of Indian stone
large number of designers, block makers, weavers and crafts.
packers involved in the trade.
Glass and ceramic products are a fast upcoming segment
Brass, copper, bronze, bell metal etc are used for a variety in the handicrafts from India. The age-old production
of wares and in a variety of finishes. Scintillating process of mouth-blowing the glass instills a nostalgic
ornaments are available in a wide range of patterns, styles feeling. The varied shapes of ceramic and glass in a
and compositions. Made from precious metals, base number of colours, would appeal to Western aesthetics
metals, precious and semi-precious stones; these while retaining the Indian touch.
ornaments have traditional as well as modern styles.
The craftsmen and craftswomen who create these different
Wooden articles in India range from the ornately carved to handicrafts often have learned their art as a hereditary
the absolutely simple. One can find toys, furniture, profession and are taught from infancy. Some skills are so
decorative articles, etc. bearing the art and individuality of intricate and so specialized (such as the famous thewa
the craftsman. India is known particularly for its lacquered gold filigree-on-glass jewelry or the grinding of local stones
and minerals into paint pigments) that the manufacturing
process is a secret still closely guarded by a small number
of families. Others acquire their individual luster through
lifelong apprenticeship and practice. Some are regional
specialties, whose techniques, motifs, and materials make
them instantly identifiable; others are found, with some
variation, in communities throughout India. What all the
many thousands of beautiful and unique craft expressions
in India have in common, though, is that the weavers,
potters, carvers, painters, embroiderers, goldsmiths, and
others who create such beauty with consummate skill and
knowledge enjoy few of the fruits of their labor.
When it comes to the marketing of the handicraft products,
there are majorly three channels of distribution. Retailers/
direct sales is the most common distribution channel for
selling handicrafts in India. There are large numbers of
retailers who provide wide range of products in India. Apart
from retail and direct sales channels, wholesalers and
Fruits Business
In Nallakunta, before Sai Baba Temple, we see a fruit vendor, Md.Mahaboob. He is a Muslim and he is unmarried.
His age is about 22 years. In his family, he has mother and father. He told that his father is a government em-
ployee. Before this fruit business he was a driver.
He belongs to Bidar district in Karnataka. He studied up to 7th standard in government school. By listening to the
ideas of other he came to Hyderabad city 4 years ago. He will sell many types of fruits like Mangoes, Apples,
Grapes, Oranges etc. At present he is selling various types of mangoes.
He not only do this fruit business but also sells different types of news papers in the morning. Daily he earns up to
Rs.50 to Rs.80 on this papers and he will earn nearly Rs.1500 to Rs.2000 per month. He reduces the price of un-
sold mangoes up to 20% of original price. He will pay rent Rs.10,000 per month for his shop.
Sericulture
Since ages, silk and silk fabrics have
attracted mankind and have found their
place among the most valued and elegant
human fabrics. Sericulture is both an art
and science of raising silkworms for silk
production.
Silk as a wearable fiber was first discovered by the Chinese
empress Xi Ling Shi during 2,640 B.C. and its culture and
weaving was a guarded secret for more than 2,500 years
by the Chinese.
Silk was a profitable trade commodity in China. Traders
from ancient Persia used to purchase richly coloured and
fine textured silks from Chinese merchants. The history of
sericulture in India dates back to even pre-Buddhist period.
In India sericulture got rich patronage from kings or
emperors. The British Raj particularly was interested in
sericulture due to the world situation involving China and
Japan during the world war periods as also to collect raw
material for its own use.
In independent India, initially sericulture was export
oriented. The export item was not raw silk, but finished silk
fabrics. Today sericulture has gained new importance as
agro-economic practice for rural development, generation are fed on leaves of oak, asan and arjuna trees. Tasar
of self-employment, empowerment of women and export constitutes a minor share of about 2% in total silk. Eri Silk is
earnings. Moreover, sericulture fits in to the scheme of multi a fine quality silk spun from cocoons of silkworms belonging
- farming system practices in many of the rural villages in to saturniidae family, which are fed on castor leaves. Unlike
India with farmers having marginal land holding. other kind of silk, this cannot be reeled and hence it is only
spun. It has natural copperish colour. Eri has about 8%
India has the distinction of commercially producing all four
share in the total silk market. Muga Silk is a coarse variety
varieties of silk – mulberry silk and non-mulberry silk
of silk produced from cocoons of silk worms belonging to
including tasar, eri and muga. Mulberry silk is a fine quality
saturniidae family, which are fed on Som and Soalu leaves.
silk that is produced from silkworms reared on mulberry
It has a rich golden colour. Its market share is less than
tree leaves and has the major share of about 90% in total
1%.Mulberry silk is produced mainly in Karnataka, West
silk sector. Tasar silk is a coarse quality silk reeled from
Bengal, Jammu & Kashmir, Tamil Nadu and Andhra
cocoons of silkworms belonging to saturniidae family, which
Pradesh although some other States have made
some progress in this direction under their
development plans. Tasar silk is mainly produced in
Jarhkhand, Bihar, Chattishgarh, Madhya Pradesh,
Orissa and West Bengal & Andhra Pradesh. Eri
yarn is produced in Assam, Bihar, Manipur,
Meghalaya, Nagaland and West Bengal. Muga silk
is predominantly produced in Assam. The climate in
NE India is suitable for growth of non-mulberry
silkworms – muga and eri. The number of
sericulture villages in NE region is about 38000 to
40000. Geographic Indication Right has been
conferred to muga silk yarn.
Indian sericulture is unique in several ways. While it
is the only country that commercially produces all
the four types of silk, it is the only country that is
consuming over 80 percent of the silk fabric
production within the country. India is the second
Activity Man-days Man-years By the year 2025 domestic demand is expected to increase
to 45,000 MT/yr. Therefore, silk production has tremendous
A. Mulberry cultivation and silkworm rearing growth potential in India, which could provide additional
a. Mulberry cultivation 585 employment opportunities for up to 4 million rural families.
At present, approximately 8 million families (of these 80%
b. Leaf / shoot harvesting 320
are rural poor) are involved in silk production as part of their
c. Silkworm rearing 350 livelihood, engaging in sericulture as an agro-based cottage
Sub-total 1255 5.02 industry.
B. Reeling of silk cocoons The export earnings from the silk are growing steadily
@ 300 mandays per 1000 kgs of because of increasing demand for Indian Silk goods
reeling cocoons (@ 8.0 renditta; particularly, from the USA and European countries. Exports
760 kgs cocon / ha.; 95 kgs raw earnings showed an increase of 45.5% from 2002-03 to
silk / ha.) 2250 9.12 2006-07. India exported silk worth Rs.3,338.35 crores
during 2006-07. During the period April to December of the
Total (A + B) 3535 14.14 year 2010-11, export earnings provisionally have slightly
C. Twisting declined to 1971.19 crores, when compared to `.2,131.23 in
the same period of 2009-10. The India Silk Goods have
@ 220 g of silk per mandays 432 1.727
high export potential because of its distinctiveness and low
D. Weaving
Handloom @ 0.13 kg per man-
day 438 1.752
Powerloom @ 0.3125 kg per
manday 122 0.486
Sub-total (Weaving) 560 2.238
E. Printing and Dyeing
@ 40 mandays for 40 kg of raw
silk 95 0.38
F. Finishing
@ 751 mandays for 40 kf of raw
silk 1784 7.135
G. Silk waste processing
@ 18.775 mandays per kg of raw
silk 26 0.104
Total (C to G) 2896 11.58
Grand Total 6431 26
Broken Lives
Hasty Decision Makes Life Miserable
Doraswamy belongs to kadappa district, Duvvor mandal, agriculture work and he also want to buy sheep. His friends
Silapuram village. His age is about 38 years. His father also suggested him to buy sheep and start sheep
was farmer. He wants to provide good education to his business. He has only one acre of fertile land. The land is
son. He joined his son in a good school. But Doraswamy used to grow several types of crops. He sells his
did not pay attention on education. He studied up to tenth remaining his one acre of land to purchase sheep. He
class and he was not interested for his further studies. He thought that growing sheep is very easy but he doesn’t
discontinued his education. He got married. Now in his know how to feed them and how to protect them from any
family he has his wife and two sons and his father. One disease or something else, and when to sell them and how
son is studying fifth class and other son is studying in to get profits on them. And also he doesn’t know about
third class in a mandal private school . diseases they get. He did not think about all this things and
started his business with his sheep. Because of poor
He has three acres of land in which he grow paddy and
maintenance he lost his sheep. Before he bought these
sugarcane .The income which he get from his crop is
sheep he already lost his property. He got loses in sheep
enough for his livelihood. Doraswamy want to build a new
business. He borrowed amount from money lenders with
house in place of his hut. So he sold his 2 acres of land
high interest to purchase more sheep. But he did not
and built a new house. He used to get good income from
overcome from the business lose. Now he is doing labor
his one acre and his labor work. In his village most of the
work. He shifted his children from mandal private school to
people are rearing sheep. They are getting good income
government school. Now he is telling to all his colleagues
on sheep rearing. He was not interested in doing that
and other people to first think and do any work.
Q: What is your name? Age? A: I earn almost Rs. 8000/- per month.
Q: Where is your native village? A: I have a loan in SHG Rs. 70,000/- I took loan for house
construction.
A: We live at Jagannadhapuram at Korukonda Mandal in
East Godavari district. Q: Do you have any savings?
Q: How many members are in your family? A: Per month I save Rs. 50/- in SHG, I pay per year Rs.
5000/- for Rs. 50,000/- policy for my daughter.
A: We are 5, two sons, one daughter , myself and my
mother also live with us. 4 yrs back my husband died. Q: Do you have any plan for your children future?
Q: What did you study? A: I didn’t save anything for them. Till my last breath I Will
put my effort on my children education. I want to complete
A: After my husband’s death I completed my class 10th.
my degree and get permanent job.
Q: When did you get marry?
Q: Do you have any other livelihood?
A: 12 years back I got marry.
A: In my free time I conduct a local SHG meetings, I write
Q: when did you join as a CRP? SHG books, and I do leaf plate making. For my family
A: At first I joined as a health CRP in 2007. Then I worked survival I do any work.
as a TFI , Abhaya hastam CRP. Q: Would you like to share anything with us?
Q: What is your Present livelihood? A: I like to help others who are in need, till now I am
A: Now I am working with Helpage India CRP, I am doing working hard and leading a good life, I don’t ask anybodies
trainings for Elder self help groups, I can do tailoring and help. I want get permanent source of income. That is my
orange baskets making. I can handle the entire three well aim.
now.
Resources
(GVM) is an NGO which continuously playing a vital A.R.T based in Bangalore, India, was founded in
role in the development of Indian handicrafts society. 2001 to strengthen and foster relationships within
Gramin Vikas Hastakala (NGO)s extensive grass- and beyond the perimeters of art and architectural
roots connection and involvement in various handi- history, archaeology, craft, design and related disci-
crafts manufacturing form various villages from all plines. A.R.T.’s initiative lies in promoting research,
over the india. This NGO , representing various gathering resources, and generating creative explo-
classes of people and interests, plays a surrogate rations and teaching methodologies. Working in both
role by engaging in public policy making. formal and non-formal educational fora, A.R.T.
seeks to democratize art history and research, pro-
Chitralakshana.com was started in July 2002. The mote greater literacy about the politics of art and
Site's intention is to provide information on the vari- facilitate critical inquiries and practices.
ous concepts of Indian Art The team working to build [email protected]
Chitralakshana.com is profoundly qualified in Art his-
tory, computer design and internet concepts.
Handicrafts’ Exports
Indian handmade products have a niche market all over the world creating a distinct impact through exclusive designs,
workmanship, finesse, colors and raw material etc. The sector shows a not so significant growth in the 2009-10 fiscal but
grows substantially in the first half of the 2010-11 fiscal. Keeping in view the trend, the sector is expected to show
phenomenal results by the end of 2011.
The swiftly rising growth in handicraft exports came about after a two-year collapse, from the second half of the last
financial year, and the upward trend continues till date. Although there has been an increase in all product categories,
however the increase fashion accessories has been commendable. Fashion product section comprise of costume
jewellery, hand-printed textiles and scarves, embroidered and crocheted garments, bags and purses, zari supplies,
footwear, shawls, belts, chappals, and stoles etc. The average growth of the Fashion accessories section has been
around 32% in the first three months of the current fiscal year. While the international market for fashion jewellery and
accessories is around $16 billion, India's share in this is zero. Increase has been noticed in nearly all the products
categories in exports of handicrafts. In some categories, it showed less and in some it showed more progress.
1 Imitation Jewellery 26
2 Wood wares 24.27
The major handicraft hubs of world markets are Moradabad, Jaipur, Saharanpur, Jodhpur and Narsapur and they utilize
about 1 million people. The Ministry of Commerce, Government of India has set an export target of Rs. 10,000 crore by
the end of this year. To achieve the target, there is a need to chalk out a clear-cut export strategy. Some of the points
which may provide advantage to it is promotion of lesser known and environment friendly crafts viz. paper and jute-based
handicrafts, exploring non-traditional markets in the regions of South America and South Africa, and Israel, up gradation
of quality to make India's crafts competitive enough in the international market, organizing training programs for
expanding skills of the craftsmen, upgrading technology and introducing contemporary tools for making improved
production, organizing workshops, sponsoring buyer-seller meets and trade-fairs, undertaking R & D in areas such as
technology, manufacturing process, designing, and product development.
Shining Livelihoods
Declining Livelihoods
Nara Chandra Babu Naidu admits that he was carried Soul’s Journey into Joy, of blissful merger in the Soul of
away by the ‘certificates’ of Bill Clinto, Bill Gates, Tony the Universe, is possible with using a trident of love – love
Blair, Wolfenson etc., and now he realizes that wealth as everyone wants/needs to be loved; make each one feel
needs to be distributed equitably apart from facilitating its s/he is important; and praise/appreciate each one and her/
creation! his contribution as everyone needs appreciation. Use this
trident and express it – liberally – verbally and non-verbally
As we take reprieve from Sathya Sai Baba, Cricket, – thoughts, words and deeds. Show it. As Sriram says
Examinations and Elections, the Telangana is coming back ‘stab’ with trishulam. What you get is not blood but love.
to central stage. Jayalalithaa comes back in Tamil Nadu, And you journey into Joy.
Mamata takes charge in West Bengal, Oommen Chand
scrapes through in Kerala. Rahul Gandi fights for farmers In the confluence of the souls, we are in ‘trishulayaanam’
in UP and MSP (Minimum Support Prices) agitations are seeking and relishing saha-amritayogam to be in harmony
not able to impress Union Government. with universal raas leela and sahathaandavam.
Flow and pursuit persists because we are designed for Can we be there? Yes, if we pursue Atma Yoga.
being so, despite mounting deficits in rest and sleep. So be Relentless focus on understanding co-existence through
it! expression of love, importance and appreciation, for being
in universal usefulness! Krshna confirms - any free soul
During the month, secrets to grow younger and live longer that practices and pursues relentless devotion achieves
have been gathered (courtesy – Deepak Chopra) – affirm knowledge of existence and being useful and sees
everyday and every way – ‘I am increasing my mental and direction for action, for being one viswaatma.
physical capacity’; get into restful awareness/meditate
regularly; sleep restfully after eating early, walking a bit Join us in the world of yoga – for the joyous co-existence
and writing down the thoughts; take balanced food that of the innermost and viswaatama - towards
includes six tastes – sweet, salty, sour, pungent, bitter and saharaasathaandavayogasiddhi. You will not regret it.
astringent – and rainbow colors; walk around and exercise
a bit; be in human contact by staying connected/related