FITTING

FUNDAMENTALS
for Sewers
Created exclusively for Bluprint
by: Linda Reynolds, Maris Olsen,
Beth Galvin & Pauline Alice
 TABLE OF CONTENTS
01 4 Ways to Adjust Fit

! Hemming 101
05
10 Mastering the Moulage Technique !
14 Plus-Size Fitting Tips
18 Petite Fitting Tips
19 Resources for Sewists
 4 Ways to Adjust Fit
Before Cutting Your Sewing Pattern
By Linda Reynolds

Getting the fit just right is one of the most challenging parts of sewing clothes, mostly because the
process isn't a singular step. Rather, it begins before the first pattern piece is even cut, and continues
throughout your sewing.

But it's those first steps, taken before any cutting happens, that can be the most critical to getting the fit
right. You have four key opportunities to ensure your pattern is the right size before the layout and
cutting begins. Here's how to make sure yours comes out like a pro's.

1. Select the Right Pattern Size

The number one thing to remember about choosing a sewing pattern: the pattern sizes are not the same
as the sizes of clothing you find in bricks and mortar stores — they're actually about 1-3 sizes larger.
Pattern sizes are based on three basic body measurements: the fullest part of the bust line, the natural
waistline and the fullest part of the hips and buttocks.

It's vital that you measure yourself accurately. Cutting patterns too small typically can't be fixed, so you
need to know the right size from the start.

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2. Use the Finish Garment Measurements (FGM)
The FGM is the circumference measurement of the garment, once completed, at the same three
basic body points listed on the previous page. This is particularly important if you're in between sizes.
By placing a measuring tape around each body point using the FGMs for both the smaller and larger
sizes, you can get a feel of how the finished garment will fit around your body. Then pick the size that
feels more fitting for you.

3. Measure with a Tissue Pattern Fitting

You can easily identify any critical fitting issues by pinning the base (tissue) pattern pieces together
and placing them on the body. For the best fit, the tissue fitting should be done over any
undergarments, but not over your clothing.

Pro Tip: Because tissue fitting is done on only half your body, make sure to secure the front and back
pattern pieces to your center front and back. This will make sure the test is lined up correctly.

Here are a few common fitting issues to look for:

• Make sure the shoulder and side seams are perfectly positioned.
• Ensure the bust darts are sufficient and properly directed to your bust apex.
• Double check the bodice, sleeve and bottom patterns are long enough, as this can't be adjusted
once the patterns are cut.
• Check the armhole and neckline for gaps, as these need to be addressed before patterns are cut.
• Make sure crotch seams are sufficiently fit over the buttock and follow the curves of the body
appropriately.

4. Prepare a Muslin
When you make a muslin, you're essentially creating a prototype of the base garment using
inexpensive fabric. This helps isolate all fitting issues and showcases the most comprehensive fitting
adjustments you need to make. Not all projects require a muslin, but it's a good idea for ones with
intricate styling details or that require exact fitting.

Pro Tip: Even with a muslin, more fine tuning of the fit will be required throughout the construction
process, as fashion fabrics perform differently than muslin fabrics.

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 The Basic Hemming Technique Every
Sewist Needs to Know By Linda Reynolds

If you're going to sew your own clothes — or even alter store-bought ones — you have to know how
to hem. The good news is it's a super easy skill to pick up, as the bottom edge is simply turned up and
stitched into place. (Things get more complicated when dealing with extras like lining, a kick pleat or a
cuff.) The method below can be used whether you're hemming a dress, a pair of pants, a skirt, a sleeve
— anything you put your mind to!

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How to Hem a Garment
What You Need
• WIP garment
• Pins
• Thread
• Iron
• Fabric marker or chalk
• Seam gauge, measuring tape or a ruler

Instructions
1. Determine the Placement
The hardest part of hemming is figuring out where you want the hem to be. So try on the garment and
pin the hem to where you think you want it to be. Make any adjustments necessary, moving the hem up
and down, until you settle on a placement you love.

Pro Tip: An easy way to hem a garment for yourself is to replicate the hem length of a similar garment
you have in your closet. Simply measure it and use as a guide for your new creation.

2. Pin It Up
Pin the excess fabric up to the underside, around the circumference of the garment. Try on the garment
again and make sure the hem is pinned evenly all around.

3. Press

With the pins still in place, press the hemline so the crease holds even once the pins are removed. If
you're working with a fabric that doesn't hold a crease well, hand baste the hem in place about ½” from
the folded hemline edge. Remove all pins.

Good to Know: A hem can be any width you want, but for guidance, pant hems should be around 1¼–
1½” and dress or skirt hems around 1½–2".

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4. Trim

Measure and mark your hem with a fabric pen or chalk. Use that mark as your guide to cut away
excess fabric.

5. Finish Raw Edges

You want to secure a hem that's invisible from the right side of the garment. There are essentially three
ways to finish a plain hem, and the type of fabric you're using will determine the appropriate approach.

For standard types of fabric, like cotton, serging the edge is the easiest approach and will produce a
clean finish. The serged stitching will prevent the raw edges from fraying and provides a medium for
the final hand stitching.

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For light- to medium-weight fabrics, use a turned edge: fold under the top raw edge of the hem by ¼”
and press in place. Stitch the folded edge down 1/16" to ⅛" from the fold (more details on stitching the
hem are below).

Pro Tip: For the turned edge method, test on a piece of scrap fabric first to make sure the added bulk
of the double layer of fabric doesn't bleed through to the right side when pressed.

For heavier fabrics, fabrics that fray excessively or are too bulky to handle a turned edge, use hem tape.
This keeps the fraying in check, conceals an otherwise unattractive edge and prevents a bulky hem
edge from bleeding through to the right side of the garment. Finish by stitching the tape to your hem.

How to Slip Stitch a Hem

The secret to a well-executed hem? A slip stitch. If done properly, it's hardly visible from the right side
and produces a secure hem. You can also use a zigzag stitch , as pictured above.

1. Prep Your Thread

Position the garment so the hem is turned up and facing you. (You're going to sew from right to left.)
Thread a needle with roughly a 20" length of thread. Knot one end of a single thread.

Pro Tip: To strengthen and prevent the thread from knotting up, run it through some beeswax and
iron before knotting.

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2. Insert
Insert the needle into the hem’s top edge,
starting from the underside and going up
through the top of the hem edge. Notice the
needle placement is roughly ⅛" or less from
the hem edge.

3. Make the First Stitch

Take a tiny stitch directly above where you
inserted the thread, at the garment base. Only
pick up a small amount of fabric. (We're talking
one or two threads.) The resulting stitch
should be quite small and perfectly vertical.

4. Keep Stitching
Angle the needle to enter the hem
approximately ½" from the first stitch. Bring
the needle up at the 6 o'clock position and
repeat the process described in steps 2 and 3.

Continue this process across the hem, making

sure only a thread or two is captured each
time and the spacing between each stitch is
consistent. On the right side of the garment,
only small, evenly-spaced pick stitches should
be visible. If applying on lofty or dense fabrics,
the stitches will likely be invisible.

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 Mastering the Moulage Technique
By Maris Olsen

Fitting can be a challenge for even the most seasoned garment sewers. But that's where a moulage, or
"mold," fitting system comes in. It was developed and used in couture houses to reduce client fitting times,
yet home sewers can use the technique to draft personal slopers for a blouse, dress, jacket or an overcoat.

Good to Know: A moulage is not a sloper. The moulage doesn't have any wearing ease added, so it's a
reflection of an individual's actual body measurements. A sloper, however, includes minimal wearing ease
and is used as the basis for creating new patterns with additional unique design lines.

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What You Need
• Large sheets of paper (30" wide is ideal) • Several yards of elastic (½" or so wide)
• Graphite pencils • Colored pencils
• Measuring tape • Tracing paper
• Straight edge ruler • Tracing wheel (dual tracing wheel preferable)
• Square • Muslin fabric
• Tape • 30" separating zipper

For a more detailed walk-through, Bluprint members can check out Suzy Furrer's class Patternmaking Basics: The Bodice Sloper

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Instructions
1. Take Measurements

It's important to do two things while gathering your measurements: be "lightly dressed" — we're
talking undergarments and nothing else — and find a fitting buddy, AKA someone you're
comfortable being in front of in your underwear.

To begin, tie a piece of elastic around your waist. There are a number of measurements you need to
take:

• Around the neck, placing the measuring tape so the ends line up at the base of the front neck,
about ¾" below the hollow and right in between the collar bones.
• The length of each shoulder, starting at the base of the neck slope.
• The base of the neck to the waist elastic, on both the front and back (note that the back will
usually be longer than the front).
• From arm crease to arm crease, across the front and back.
• From the base of the neck to the center of each breast.
• From the center of one breast to the center of the other.
• Around the body at the widest point of the chest.
• Around the body right underneath the bust.
• Around the waist.
• Around the high hip.
• Around the widest part of your hips.
• From the armpit to the waist elastic.
• Around the armpit, so the ends are together on top of the shoulder.

Record each measurement meticulously to the nearest half or full inch.

Pro Tip: The person taking your measurements should pull the measuring tape snugly around the
body, keeping the forefinger underneath the tape and a thumb on top to hold the ends together.
This helps increase accuracy and allows just a smidgen of ease for when you make the final muslin.
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2. Make Your Calculations

Once all the moulage measurements are taken, it's time for some simple algebra. We have the
detailed calculations you need to make, plus a worksheet to make it easy, for Bluprint members
in our class Patternmaking Basics: The Bodice Sloper. Sign up for a 7-day trial to get it.

3. Draft the Moulage

Draft a moulage back and front using your body measurements and calculations. You'll need the
straight edge, square template and a pencil to draw reference lines on the large piece of paper to
create your personalized pattern.

4. Construct a Muslin
Once your moulage is drafted, use the paper pattern to trace cutting and stitching lines for your
moulage muslin. Like with any garment, you'll need to staystitch curves, follow the correct construction
order and insert a zipper in the back to allow the moulage to be easily put on and taken off.

5. Fit the Muslin

Try on the completed moulage muslin and check for the correct fit. Remember, this garment should
have basically zero ease, no gaps and no wrinkles across your body. It should fit like a glove. Make
any necessary adjustments to the muslin garment, then transfer those same adjustments to the
paper pattern.

6. Draft a Bodice Sloper

Now that you have all the precise measurements for your moulage, create a sloper with minimal
wearing ease added. You'll use this as your foundation piece to create unlimited designs with a
personalized fit.

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 Plus-Size Pattern Fitting
It’s All the About Vertical Dimension
By Beth Galvin

When fitting a sewing pattern, you typically check standard measurements such as the bust, waist and
hip — all measurements of circumference. But there's another that's critical to getting the perfect fit:
vertical dimension. This measurement isn't usually marked on most patterns, but you should measure
and adjust your patterns for it (in both dimensions, actually) to get the fit you need — especially if you're
plus-size or full-busted.

The two dress forms pictured above show the potential need for vertical adjustment on sewing patterns.
The light pink form shows how bust depth, which is the distance from the top of the shoulder to the bust
apex, is considerably longer with a plus-size or full-busted figure. The horizontal line marks the bust apex
on both dress forms, and that's the point on your pattern where you want the maximum fullness to
accommodate the curves.

Imagine a pattern with bust darts that finish near that apex — clearly, they need to be closer for the less
full bust and further away for the more full bust. Which means the full-busted form needs more length in
the front of the garment to reach the waist. Here's how to get that extra length.

Good to Know: Often, wrap-style dresses or tops don’t include a side dart, so the tutorial on the next
page is a way to adjust the pattern front to create extra length when needed.

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How to Make a Vertical Adjustment
What You Need
• Pattern Pieces • Paper
• Measuring tape • Muslin fabric
• Marker or pen • Pins
• Scissors or a rotary cutter • Ribbon or string

1. Evaluate the Pattern

Above is a front bodice pattern piece of a

mock wrap front with shoulder darts. The bust
apex is indicated on the pattern as the small
circle with the +. The center front is also
marked, and that should be transferred to your
pattern so the wrap overlaps properly. There is
no side bust dart, but that will be added to
create shape and allow for the longer front
measurement from shoulder to waist.

2. Make a Muslin

The test muslin of the pattern shows the

circumference seems to fit around the body
and be where you want it. But the issue with
the bodice's length is clear: the yellow dots
represent the bust apex on the pattern, and
they are about 2" higher than the actual apex
of the form shown by the upper ribbon.

The bodice is also pulling upward under the

bust, so the garment waist will not be in the
right place. To fix this, measure the distance
between the pattern mark of the apex and the
actual apex. This will be the distance the
pattern will be lengthened over the bust.

Then, measure the distance between the

bottom of the bodice and the waist. If that's
more than the difference you'll be adding at
the bust, you may want to add a little more at
the bottom edge as well, or deepen your
seam allowance to permit some adjustment
when you sew the top and bottom together.

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3. Split the Pattern Piece
Draw a horizontal line across the pattern,
either through the apex or just under as
shown. Make sure that line is
perpendicular to the grainline. Add a few
vertical lines across this horizontal line —
these will be used to connect the pattern
piece after you split it.
Cut the pattern piece in half using this line.

4. Lengthen the Pattern Piece

Insert a strip of paper between the split
pattern pieces. In the example above, we
added 2" across the bodice front. Line up
the vertical lines to keep everything even,
including the grainline.

5. Adjust the Front Cutting Line

By adding the 2" in the middle of the
bodice, the long front edge will become a
bit jagged. Smooth this edge by redrawing
the cutting line, splitting the difference
above and below the inserted piece. Trim
off the excess.

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6. Add a Dart

With the added length, the front bodice is now 2"

longer than the back bodice piece at the side
seam. To take up that difference, add a side bust
dart . This kind of dart is really helpful to get a
good fit on a full bust, so don’t be afraid to add
one where none exists.

The dart point should be about 1½" to 2" away

from the bust apex. To make it more pleasing to
the eye, slant your dart upward instead of making
it completely horizontal.

Pro Tip: Pin your paper pieces together and test

on your body. You can pinch out the extra to see
just where the side dart should go.

Make sure the front and back bodice seams are

trued up, then you are ready to try a second
muslin.

7. Test the Adjustments

Before you begin sewing, test your adjustments

on a new muslin to see if they work. The one
pictured above has the the bodice length
adjustment and a side seam bust dart added. The
bottom of the bodice hits at the waist and retains
the ease and blousing of the pattern design. The
new dart creates fullness where it's needed over
the bust, and allows the fabric to drape instead of
pulling the waist seam upward.

With these adjustments, the bodice drapes nicely

and will be much more comfortable than it would
have been without the front length adjustment.
Then you know the bodice pattern piece is ready
to use with your fashion fabric!

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 Sewing Tips for Petites
Finding the Perfect Patterns & Styles
By Pauline Alice

If you're under 5'4", you're considered a size petite by the fashion industry — as well as the pattern
companies industry. And when you're searching for a pattern, you want one that helps you look taller and
gives great proportions to flatter your shape. Keep these tips in mind while you're browsing to help you find
the perfect pattern for your next garment.

1. Notice the Neckline

U- or V-shaped necklines are often the most flattering for petites, as they help elongate the neck. Necklines
that are more horizontal, like a boat neck, might make you seem even more petite because of its horizontal
emphasis.

2. Find Figure-Flattering Options

It's best to choose patterns that won't overwhelm your smaller frame, so avoid any with lots of frills or
layers. Instead, look for patterns with simple-yet-interesting design lines, along with ones that are more
fitted than loose. Can't get enough of the layers? A good compromise could be a fitted bodice dress with a
slightly gathered or pleated skirt.

3. Look at the Length

Skirts and dresses that hit just above the knee create the illusion of longer legs, whereas something like a
maxi skirt can overwhelm a petite figure. As for pants, cropped trousers and high-waisted pants create the
appearance of length, so either is a smart choice.

4. Pay Attention to Colors and Prints

Monochromatic prints and small patterns look great on petite frames, as loud prints might make you look
too youthful. And dressing in one color — or in similar shades — creates cohesiveness in a look that makes
you look taller. (There are no horizontal breaks!) A contrasting top and bottom, however, cuts the body in
two and makes you look smaller.

Stripes are always a debate: vertical or horizontal? Thick or thin? If you want your body to look longer,
you're after thin, vertical stripes — especially on dresses. Wide stripes can create a lot of contrast and break
up the silhouette too much, while thin stripes (especially vertical ones) create length.

5. Accentuate the Waist

It's helpful for petites to follow the ⅓ - ⅔ rule to accentuate the natural waistline (which is situated
approximately at ⅓ of your body). Easy ways to do so: wear shirts tucked in to high-waisted trousers and
skirts, opt for tops with peplum and thin belts, and keep an eye out for short and fitted jackets. There's
plenty of room to experiment and find something that suits your personal style.

Of course, any petite person can break these rules as long as the outfit fits well and the details and patterns
are proportionate to his or her size and style.
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Resources for Sewists
Must-Have Tools

• Fabric
• Thread
• Clover Hera Tool
• Olfa Splash 45mm Rotary Cutter
• Karen Kay Buckley Perfect Scissors
• Creative Grids Rulers
• Omnigrid Foldaway Cutting and Ironing Mat
• Coats & Clark All-Purpose Polyester Zippers

Classes to Watch

Patternmaking Basics: The Bodice Sloper — Create a moulage and use it to make a custom-fit bodice
sloper — the foundation for personalized patternmaking.

Patternmaking Classics: The Wrap Dress — Learn to draft a custom wrap dress from start to finish.

Fitting Solo: From Measurements to Muslins — Learn how to take your own measurements, make
basic pattern adjustments and create fitting muslins for personalized garments.

Designing Your Wardrobe: Drafting Tops — Go beyond the sloper and draft your own top patterns.

Suzy Furrer on Patternmaking — Get an inside look at three of master patternmaker Suzy Furrer's
favorite garments as she shares her unique perspective on design and fashion history.

Kits You'll Love

• The School of Making Swing Skirt Kit
• The School of Making T-Shirt Kit
• Startup Box: Sewing
• Startup Project: The Flirty Dress Kit

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 Meet the Experts

Linda Reynolds Maris Olsen

Linda Reynolds learned to sew as a young girl Maris Olsen is a seriously awesome sewing geek,
and has been sewing ever since. Trained as a and prefers to spend the majority of each day in
professional seamstress, she loves sharing her her sewing studio. Since retiring from a hi-tech
passion for the craft as a sewing instructor career, her new life-mission is to imbue students
teaching garment sewing to teens and adults. young and old with the love of textiles, stitching
Her blog Simply Sewing Studio offers helpful tips and the pure joy of creation. She blogs about her
and easy solutions to everyday sewing dilemmas. sewing and teaching adventures at Sew Maris.

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Beth Galvin Pauline Alice
Beth started sewing in 3rd grade and discovered Pauline is a French independent sewing pattern
her lifelong fascination with patterns and fabric. designer who started her own line, Pauline Alice
She sews and blogs in beautiful Northern Sewing Patterns, in 2013. Her designs offer a
California, where she makes far too many coats feminine look and a touch of retro aesthetic for
and jackets for the sunny climate. On her blog the modern and everyday lady. She also shares
SunnyGal Studio Sewing she shares her projects her sewing journey, tutorials and inspiration on
with tips on construction and fitting. her blog.

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