Youth Cribbage program

Teachers Manual
(Fourth Edition – revised 5/2003)

Developed and Written by Dan Zeisler

Contents
1. Introduction
2. Getting Started

a. Gathering Equipment
b. Contacting School

3. Teaching Cribbage
4. Youth Tournaments

5. Handouts

a. Common Terms

b. Cribbage Counter

c. Rules Everyone Should Know

d. Cribbage Quiz #1

e. Cribbage Quiz #2

Introduction
Thank you for taking the time to look over this manual. In it you will find a complete
guide to help you successfully teach groups of children how to play cribbage.

The time and energy you put into this program will benefit every child fortunate enough
to take your class. They will improve their mathematics, logic, and critical thinking skills,
which will aid them in all academic areas in school. I’ve witnessed countless situations
where self-esteem was raised because a teenager was not a gifted athlete or an academic
scholar, but excelled at cribbage, and could challenge anyone who chose to sit across the
table from them.

Learning cribbage also provides an alternative to going home after school and spending
countless hours of either watching TV or playing Nintendo games, both, which are highly
unsociable. I have received more than a few notes from grandparents, thanking me for
teaching their grandchild cribbage, which gave them a common bond that they never
shared before.

I could go on and on, but I think you can see the many benefits kids receive from learning
how to play cribbage. Let’s also not forget the self-satisfying feeling you will get from
introducing youngsters to a game that some will enjoy for the rest of their lives. Trust me,
it feels great!

As you read through this manual, please keep the following thoughts in mind:

•1 Even though this manual was written to teach groups of kids how to play
cribbage, it can easily be adapted to work in a one-on-one situation.

•2 You must work within your own comfort zone. If you feel like you need to
modify any part of the teaching process, by all means do it.
•3 I am always looking for suggestions on how to improve this manual. You can
reach me at:
Dan Zeisler

10300 Dawkins Lane

Grass Valley, CA 95949

 (530) 274-3124
email: [email protected]

Getting Started

1. Gathering Equipment
One of the neat things about teaching cribbage is you only need two things, a cribbage
board and a deck of cards. It is usually best to have a board and a deck of cards for every
two students, but it is very easy and sometimes beneficial to pair up kids while teaching.
By doing it this way, you will only need one board and a deck of cards for every fours
students.

There are several ways to obtain cribbage boards and cards if you need them:

•1 Ask your local grass roots club director to let you borrow what you need on the
days you teach.

•2 Contact local service organizations, and explain what you are doing. Not only
might they donate the money to purchase the equipment, you may find a crib
player or two to help you out in the classroom.
•3 Inquire among the kids you will be working with. You’ll be pleasantly surprised
how many of them have cribbage boards and cards at home that they can bring to
school.
If you need to purchase boards, I highly recommend the long boards, which are used at
sanctioned tournaments. They eliminate some of the confusion other types of boards may
present. There are many ads for crib boards in Cribbage World. Contact several dealers
and see who will offer you the best price.

As far as cards go, maybe a local variety store will donate a few decks or at least give you
a discount. Just be sure and let them know of your intentions to work in the schools.

2. Contacting School
If you are not a teacher and do not know anyone in the school you wish to teach in, go to
the school principal and express your desire to teach cribbage. Take this manual along to
show him/her that you have an organized lesson plan. If the principal doesn’t think the
teaching of cribbage is warranted during instructional time, suggest that something be set
up after school. This would be a wonderful alternative to having kids go home to empty
houses of working parents.

Most likely, you will be recognized as a welcome asset to the school, and the principal
will set up a meeting between you and a teacher that would be interested in having
cribbage taught in their classroom. If by chance you don’t get a positive reply, don’t be
discouraged. Either try another school or use me as a reference by having them call me
anytime at my school (I am a Superintendent Principal of a small school district) at
(530)346-2153.

Teaching Cribbage
In the past 14 years, I have taught more than 1000 youngsters the marvelous game of
cribbage. In this time, I have made the following observations:

•1 In working with groups of 8 or more, it is very difficult to achieve success when

working with kids below the sixth grade unless you have a least one volunteer
who knows the game of cribbage helping you out. Then it can work as low as
fourth grade.

•2 The single most important learning tool is the enthusiasm of the instructor.
Obviously, you love the game or you wouldn’t be teaching it. Let your love for
the game shine; it will be contagious.

•3 The second most important tool is PATIENCE. Remember you are working with
children, most of whom are very sensitive. They need to be encouraged to ask
questions and assured that no question is a dumb question. Remind them that
cribbage is a fun, yet rather complicated game that takes a lot of practice to learn.
•4 Try and arrange a fifty-minute to one-hour period to work with the class at least
once but preferably twice a week. This time frame tends to allow kids to practice
and grasp various concepts, and not lose interest in what’s going on.
Now I’m going to lay out a step-by-step approach to teaching the game of cribbage from
start to end. Keep in mind that this format works well for me, but there are many different
ways to teach a subject, so be ready, willing, and able to change things around if
necessary to better suit your situation or teaching style.
 Day 1

1. Introduce the cribbage board. Show that the object of the game is to get to the out
hole first. Point out how one always pegs up the outside of the board and down
the inside. Explain why we use two pegs rather than one to keep track of where
we are.
2. Let the students know that you are going to first teach just a small part of the
game called “pegging”. Tell them there is a lot more to cribbage, and it will be
introduced at the next session.

3. In a place where everyone can see, deal four cards (face-up) to two imaginary
players. Then discuss the concepts of 15’s, 31’s, runs, pairs, pairs royal’s, and
go’s. Write on the chalkboard the point values of each. Now play out the hands,
talking about why you chose to discard the way you did. As you do this, have
couple of volunteers peg points as they are earned. Do this three or four times,
making sure that pairs, runs, etc. all come into play. After the first couple of times
through, ask the students to raise their hands and suggest which card should be
played next. Judging from experience, you will find the most difficult task for
kids to grasp is runs during pegging. They will often discard in ways that will set
up their opponent to capitalize a run, or they will play into a run, and not see it,
therefore missing points.

4. NOW LET THE KIDS HAVE AT IT! Either working individually or in teams of
two so they can share strategies let them play. Remember, at this point, they are
only dealing each other four cards and practicing the concept of pegging. As they
play, circulate around the room to make sure everyone seems to be on the right
track. Watch for kids leading into runs! Encourage students to ask questions.

By using this approach, I feel that is doesn’t overwhelm students with too much
information the first day.

Day 2

1. Review what was taught during the first session. Lay out two four cards hands,
 and have the class together; tell you how to correctly play the hands. Then let
them get into groups and for 10-15 minutes, let them refresh themselves on the
fine art of pegging.

2. Now comes the time to show the kids the entire game of cribbage. Collect all
boards and cards so that there are no distractions. Then gather your students
around and tell them it is time to show them the complete game of cribbage.

3. Teach them how to cut for deal. Then deal two hands (face-up) and step by step
march them through the discard of the crib, the pegging sequence, and finally the
counting of the hand. It is at this time that I pass out the cribbage counter handout,
and we discuss all the ways to find points in your hand. (Because of their
exposure to pegging, they should be able to identity all sources of points except
flushes and nobs.) As you go through the cribbage counter, take the time to
visually demonstrate hands that contain double runs, flushes, and pairs. Once
again, encourage the kids to ask questions if they do not understand. Once done
going over the counter sheet, play a few more hands face-up, showing the
appropriate play.

4. Hopefully, there will be time to let everyone try a hand or two with an opponent.
Many times however, and especially with a large group (20 or more), by the time
you get through the counter sheet and demonstrate a few hands, class time has
expired.

Day 3
1. Just to get a feel for where the kids are at after the first couple of sessions, ask the
class the following questions:
 a. Who gets to deal first?

b. What’s a crib, and who get it?

c. What happens when a jack is cut as the starter card?

d. What is a double run, and how many points are they always worth (not
including the 15’s)?

Most likely, all these questions will be enthusiastically answered. If so, it shows
that the kids are learning, and you are doing an A+ job!

2. Let the kids start playing cribbage. Pick a pair of students, and have them play
together against you. As they lay down their hands, evaluate their moves and how
they chose to discard into the crib. One game will take almost the whole class
period, but from that time on, your opponents will have a solid foundation of
cribbage on which to build upon.

Day 4

1. Introduce the Common Terms handout, and go over it with the kids.
 2. Everyone plays cribbage! Pick two new opponents to tutor as you play them. If
there is a student who seems totally lost at this point, have him or her play with
you as a team member. This really helps get a youngster on track sometimes.

3. This is a great day to bring in as many volunteer cribbage players as you can.
Can’t you see how wonderful it would be to have each new cribbage player and a
peer, play and receive instruction for a veteran player? Also, isn’t it great to create
an opportunity for community members from different generations to work and
play together. How often does that take place where you live?

Day 5 on out
From now on, your primary goal is to play everyone in the classroom because that’s
where the most sincere learning takes place. Each day before you play, try to disclose a
new facet of cribbage. Here are some suggestions:

•1 Talk about the ACC

•2 Bring in some past editions of Cribbage World

•3 On a large piece of tag board arrange four or five cribbage hands, and have
students write down how many points they are worth.

•4 Discuss the origin of cribbage

•5 Educate the kids about sanctioned tournaments and Grass Roots clubs.
•6 Give the Cribbage Quiz included in the handout section of this manual.

Once you’ve played everyone in the class, it is time to conduct a tournament!

Youth Tournaments

Before a youth tournament can be conducted, a class period must be used to go over
tournament rules, and to explain how to fill out a scorecard. (If you plan on conducting a
tournament, contact me so I can send you a copy of an official scorecard.) To easily
accomplish this, use the handout, “Rules Everyone Should Know,” and read it over
together. To demonstrate the filling in of a scorecard, either make an overhead projector
copy of it, or draw a sample one on the chalkboard and give a visual lesson on filling out
a card. It is a good idea to let each student have a blank scorecard to practice on at this
time.

Next comes finding enough time to have a tournament take place. Figure on a six game
tournament taking 3 to 3 ½ hours, and up to another hour or two if you have playoffs. So,
unless you can talk a teacher into blocking off an entire day, consider holding the
tournament on a Saturday at the school. Besides not having to worry about time
constraints, a Saturday tournament allows other youths that may know how to play, but
are not in the class you are teaching, an opportunity to participate.

Once everyone is seated and ready to go, ACC rules are used plus I add one more: No
new hand may be started after 30 minutes. I set a timer, and when it rings, the hand that is
being played is the last one. Whoever is closest to the out hole is declared the winner. If it
is by 31 or more points, then of course it is a skunk. If you know any other adult cribbage
players, I highly recommend you talk at least two others to be judges and help with other
logistics of the tournament.

Once all the scorecards are in, I usually allow the top eight cards (unless there are more
than 32 participants, then it is the top 25%) into the playoffs. After lunch, I then conduct
a one-game single elimination playoff, with the finals being two out of three.

Prizes can vary from trophies, to gift certificates, to ribbons, to just about any creative
idea you have. Some popular prizes I like to use are: t-shirt, cribbage boards, decks of
cards, and Joe Wergin’s “Cribbage for Kids” and “The Cribbage Generation is here”,
both which can be ordered through ads in “Cribbage World”.

The Cribadier General Program in conjunction with the American Cribbage Congress
will also make cash donations (up to $250!) to approved tournaments to help with the
costs of running such an event. Contact me at the address or e-mail at the front of this manual
for more details in regards to this.

I sincerely hope that this manual encourages you to get started teaching cribbage to the
youth of America. If you have any questions, suggestion, or wonderful stories about
teaching kids cribbage, I’d love to hear about them. Please don’t hesitate to get in touch!
 HANDOUTS
Common Cribbage Terms

•1 CRIB: The extra hand of four cards for the dealer. Nicknames include: cat and
kitty.

•1 DEAD HOLE: The 120th hole (last hole before going out). Also known as the
stink hole.

•1 DOUBLE SKUNK: If a player fails to reach the sixty-first hole before their
opponent wins the game.

•1 FIRST STREET: The first thirty holes on a cribbage board.

•1 FOURTH STREET: The last thirty holes on a cribbage board.

•1 GO: A player says this during pegging when he/she cannot play a card from his
hand without going over thirty-one.

•1 MUGGINS: This is said when an opponent either misses counting some points in
his/her hand, or under pegs. You then get the points he/she missed or messed up
on.

•1 NINETEEN: It is impossible to have a cribbage hand that equals 19, therefore, a

nineteen point hand means a hand that contains zero points.

•1 PONE: The player who is currently not the dealer.

 •1 RIGHT JACK: Another term for Nobs (having a jack in your hand which is the
same suit as the starter card – worth 1 point).

•1 SECOND STREET: The second set of thirty holes on a cribbage board.

•1 SIR JOHN SUCKLING: The inventor of Cribbage.

•1 SKUNK: If a player fails to reach the ninety-first hole before their opponent wins
the game.

•1 STARTER CARD: The card that is cut after both players have discarded their two
cards into the crib. If the starter card is a jack (Nibs or His Heels) it is worth 2
points to the dealer.

•1 THIRD STREET: The third set of thirty holes on a cribbage board.

•1 TWENTY-NINE: The best hand possible in Cribbage! Chances for getting this
hand are more than 1:200,000.

CRIBBAGE COUNTER

Pegging
•1 15 or 31: 2 points

•1 Runs of 3 or more: 1 point for each card

•1 Pairs (2 of a kind): 2 points

 •1 Pairs Royal (3 of a kind): 6 points

•1 Double Pairs Royal (4 of a kind): 12 points

**Note: If a jack is cut as the starter card, it is referred to as HIS HEELS and the
dealer gets 2 points. Take the points as soon as the jack is exposed.

Counting Your Hand

•1 Any combinations of 15: 2 points

•1 Runs of 3 or more: 1 point for each card

•1 Double Runs: a run of 3 or 4 cards with one card duplicated. A 3-card run double
run is worth 8 points while a 4 card double run is worth 10 points.
Example of a 3 card double run: 4-8-8-9-10
Example of a 4 card double run: 10-10-J-Q-K

•1 Double-Double Runs: 16 points

Example of a double-double run: A-A-2-2-3

•1 Triple Run: a run of 3 cards with one card triplicate: 15 points

Example of a triple run: 2-2-2-3-4

•1 Pairs (2 of a kind, Pairs Royal (3 of a kind), and Double pairs Royal (4 of a kind)
are scored the same as listed in the pegging section.

•1 Flush: a hand in which all the cards are the same suit: 1 point for each card.
NOTE: If the starter card is not the same suit as your counting hand, you still get
credit for the flush, however, in order to receive any points for a flush in the crib,
the starter card must ALSO be the same suit as the rest of the cards in the crib.
•1 Nobs: having a jack in your hand with the same suit as the starter card: 1 point.
 Rules Everyone Should Know

•1 Shuffling:
01. Riffle the pack two or three times and finish with an over and under shuffle.

•1 Cutting the Pack:

1. The pack must be cut taking off at least four cards and leaving at
least four.

2. In the cut for Starter Card, a person may not look at the bottom
card and also, the dealer may not look at the bottom card of the
pack. Penalty in either case is two points.

3. After the cut for Starter Card, the two packets must be reunited
before the cards are dealt out.
4. In cutting for the Starter Card, if the cut card is face up, turn it over
and reshuffle that portion of the pack and cut again for a starter.

•1 Dealing:

1. If the dealer exposes a card or cards while dealing, the cards shall be re-
dealt.
2. Do NOT pick the cards up until dealer has completed the distribution.

•1 Pegging:

1. Record your first scores on the outside lane and after making the turn, use the
inside lane.

2. After completing the first series toward 31, cards may not be turned over.
3. When the fingers are taken off the peg, the pegging is completed.

4. In the case of pegging short of the mark, the points are lost.

5. When a player takes up the front peg to record a score, the back peg immediately
becomes the front peg. Points are lost by this error.

6. If a person pegs in the wrong direction, to bad! The pegs stand as placed.

7. If both pegs fall out and the two players cannot agree where they belong, call a
Judge. After listening to both opinions, the judge arbitrarily places the pegs on the
board.

8. If, in error, a person pegs too many points and the opponent calls the player on the
error, the front peg is moved back to the correct spot and the caller receives that
amount of points as a penalty.
9. If too many points are pegged and a peg is placed in the Game Hole, thus
claiming the game, the following procedures takes place.

a. The peg is placed in the correct hole.

b. The opponent receives the extra point(s) taken.

c. The offender is then penalized 15 points backward from the front peg.
•1 Scoring:
1. Enter a 2 for a game won, and 3 if it is won by a skunk. Record the spread points,
plus or minus, and enter two digits as 03 or 07.

•1 Dishonesty:
1. “Deliberate over-pegging, switching deals, altering scorecards, throwing games,
or any other dishonest acts are subject to banishment from the Congress for life.
 Cribbage Quiz # 1

1. How do you decide who get to deal first in a game of cribbage?

2. What is nobs, and how many points is it worth?

3. When counting the points in your hand, what point value is impossible to get?

a. 16 points

b. 19 points
c. 28 points

4. Not including any 15’s how many points is a double run always worth?
5. Illustrate the best hand possible in a game of cribbage. How many points is it
worth?

6. What is muggings?

7. What is a flush? What is different about holding a flush in your hand, and having
one in the crib?

8. Describe what a skunk is.

9. Where on a cribbage board would I find the “stink hole?”

10. What are the point values for the following hands (assume there are NO flushes):

4-4-5-6 Cut card 6 Points =

3-4-4-8 Cut card 9 Points =

8-9-910 Cut card 5 Points =

2-4-6-8 Cut card K Points =

 Cribbage Quiz # 2

1. In what country was the game of cribbage invented? During what Century?

2. After both hands have been shown through pegging, who counts first, the dealer
or the pone?

3. What is the name given to the card that is cut after both players have discarded to
the crib?

4. How many total pegging holes are there on a cribbage board?

5. What street would a player be on if his front peg was in hole number fifty-six?
6. What is a “Go”?

7. True/False: Once your fingers have been removed from the peg you just moved,
you must leave it in that position even if you didn’t peg enough.

8. How many points will you have in your hand if you hold four jacks and anything
is cut but a five?

9. Illustrate an eighteen and a twenty-two-point hand.

10. What is the only cribbage hand you can hold where no matter what the cut card is,
it cannot increase the point value of your hand? (Hint: it’s a twelve point hand)