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world of denim

References Worldwide www.monforts.com

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Non-fade,
life long
black
A collection
described as
‘dedicated to all
black denim
aficionado’s’
was shown by
Bossa. It included
rigid, stretch and super
stretch fabrics for black jeans that
‘never fade’.
The launch of the Ultranero range
followed more than 6 months of Bossa has created a unique technique for finishing the fabric.
development trials to provide ‘a black process that combines the use of The result is an intense black shade
jean that stays truly black - even after special dyestuffs and processes of black that retains its colour for the
40 home washes and beyond.’ together with a specially developed lifetime of the jean.

Indigo sunshine
‘Bringing back the sunshine’ for its
indigo range with the introduction of
a bright yellow bottom indigo colour,
formed part of UCO Raymond’s
collection.
A mix of several stretch and rigid
denims with different construction
and weights was also featured.
The company also introduced four
new colours for it’s Chambray indigo
shirts - Blue Lagoon (100% indigo);
Key West (75% indigo); Panama
(50% indigo) and Santa Fe (50%
indigo and 50% black).
UCO Raymond produce speciality
ring colour and stretch denim with a
capacity of 47 million metres.

2 world of denim www.monforts.com

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More than just jeans

‘Jeans are more than just jeans’ was clearly apparent following a
visit to Denim at Premiere Vision in Paris - graduated effects;
bleached, painted or woven; bi-stretch or extra stretch for
sculptable silhouettes; raised or flat textures; two toned or tonal
effects; and contrasts within the garment construction - to say
nothing of styles, cuts and colours.

Denim by Premiere Vision gave

almost 80 exhibitors, including
weavers, garment manufacturers,
finishers and trim makers from 19
countries, the opportunity to
present their Summer 2014
collections.
Denim forever Record visitors were able to
see premium-brand specialists,
As the global economy begins to fashion brands as well as luxury
show signs of improvement, names for ‘edgier’ products.
denim producers are seeing better Trends were to include new
opportunities for export. blends of fibres including cotton
and rayon or tencel for a
Indian producers, for example, are, shiny aspect with a silky
according to reports, poised for ‘look’; two-way stretch for
rapid growth. new hold and ultra-shaping;
plus new methods of
Denim players in India produce recycling and more
around 700 million metres of fabric eco-friendly manufacturing
every year of which 32% is for techniques.
New cuts, washes,
export.
enriched tones and a wide Absolute Denim
variety of prints also
In the year 2013 exports were Artistic Milliners
ensured key influences in
expected to see an increase. fashion by the denim industry.
The resulting
The global denim market saw 8% lively atmosphere provided an
growth in terms of value between escape from the global
2012-2013. Currently totalling economic crises, generating
$51 billion growth is predicted to a buoyant mood and
increase to $56 billion by 2018. eager anticipation for a Arvind
return to improved trading Berto
1.8 billion pairs of jeans are thought by 2014 for the denim Bossa
to have been sold between sector - good news for
2012-2013. It is also estimated the 20 participating Çalık
that 60 pairs of jeans are sold producers with Monfort’s Denim Valley by Royo
globally every 60 seconds. denim finishing lines. Hellenic Fabrics
which included:
In order to help denim producers
iSKO
maximise their quality, efficiency Italdenim
and profitability, Monforts are Kipas
A. Monforts Textilmaschinen GmbH & Co. KG
committed to ensuring energy Blumenberger Strasse 143-145 Matesa
cost savings and new finishing D-41061 Mönchengladbach
Orta Anadolou
Telefon: +49 - (0) - 21 61-401-0
solutions. Telefax: +49 - (0) - 21 61-401-498
Internet: www.monforts.de
Tavex
Roland Hampel, eMail: [email protected] Textil Santanderina
PUBLISHED BY MONFORTS MARKETING GROUP
Managing Director UCO Raymond

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Finishing of Denim Veredlung von Denim

by: Dipl. Ing. Kurt van Wersch, Dipl. Ing. Kurt van Wersch,
A. Monforts Textilmaschinen GmbH & Co. KG A. Monforts Textilmaschinen GmbH & Co. KG

Introduction Einleitung
The fashion-driven fluctuations and national crises in recent years have had Modisch bestimmte Schwankungen und länderspezifische Krisen konnten
absolutely no impact on denim production. The range of denim products is der Denimproduktion in den letzten Jahren nichts anhaben. Das
more varied today than ever. Denimangebot ist derzeit so facettenreich wie noch nie. Denim ist wie
Denim is still highly fashionable. Denim is ‘forever young’. Denim is immer wieder stark in Mode. Denim ist „ewig jung”. Denim ist in Form,
unrivalled in form, colour and design. Farbe und Gestaltung unerreicht. Die Denim-Industrie versucht mit neuen
The denim industry is striving to further expand its market share with Varianten und noch besserer Qualität den Markt weiter auszubauen. Das
new variants and even higher quality. bedeutet ebenfalls eine weltweite Modernisierung und Steigerung der
At the same time this means a worldwide modernisation and expansion Produktionsanlagen. Besondere Beachtung verdient unter anderem
of the production facilities. Particular attention should be paid here to elastic elastischer Denim mit seinen wachsenden Marktanteilen.
denim with its growing market shares.
Überblick: Monforts - Möglichkeiten zur Veredlung von Denim
Overview: Monforts - possibilities for finishing denim Monforts bietet eine Vielzahl von Verfahren und Anlagen zur Veredlung von
Monforts offers a wide variety of processes and ranges for the finishing of Denim an.
denim. Für die Veredlung von Denim-Rohware nach dem Putzen und Sengen
For the finishing of grey denim fabric after cleaning and singeing, for zum Beispiel:
example (e.g), padders, foam applicators, minimum-liquor applicators, Foulards, Schaumauftragsanlagen, Minimalauftragsanlagen, Reck-und
numerous versions of stretching- and skewing-units, dryers and Schrägstellwerke in verschiedenen Ausführungen, Trockner und
compressive shrinkage ranges. kompressive Krumpfanlagen.
Processes and ranges are offered for desizing, mercerising, bleaching, Zur Erzielung von Effekten werden Verfahren und Anlagen zum
stripping, continuous dyeing, washing, drying and coating in order to create
Entschlichten, Mercerisieren, Bleichen, Abziehen, Kontinuefärben, Waschen,
special effects.
Trocknen und Beschichten angeboten.
The Matex ECO-Applicator allows two-sided finishing and overdyeing with
Mit dem Matex ECO-Applicator lassen sich zweiseitige Ausrüstungen
two different dyestuffs or finishing liquors being applied in a single passage.
und Überfärbungen erzielen, wobei in einer Passage zwei unterschiedliche
Monforts denim ranges are tailored to the customer’s needs and are in
Farben oder Ausrüstungsflotten aufgebracht werden können.
operation with practically all leading denim producers.
Monforts-Denimanlagen werden auf die Belange der Kunden
A sophisticated denim concept can be offered, from individual machines
zugeschnitten und sind bei fast allen namhaften Denim-Herstellern im
through to full-scale continuous finishing ranges.
Einsatz. Von Einzelmaschinen bis hin zu großen kontinuierlichen
Veredlungsanlagen kann ein ausgereiftes Denim-Konzept angeboten werden.
The ‘classic’ configurations include:
The padder-stretching unit-cylinder dryer-shrinkage range version and
Zu den „Klassikern” gehören:
the energy-saving foam applicator-stretching unit-shrinkage range version.
die Foulard-Reckwerk-Zylindertrockner-Krumpfanlage-Version und die
The foam applicator can be replaced with a Matex ECO-Applicator.
Energie sparende Schaumauftragsanlage-Reckwerk-Krumpfanlage-Version,
This also eliminates the need for a foam mixer. [Fig.1] shows all 3 versions.
wobei auch heute die Schaumauftragsanlage durch einen Matex ECO-
Applicator ersetzt werden kann. Hier wird dann auch kein Schaummixer
Finishing of elastic denim fabric
mehr benötigt. [Abb.1] zeigt die Prinzipien der drei Anlagenvarianten
Elastic denim fabric has already established itself in the denim industry with
growing market shares. Many premium denim brands employ modern
Die Ausrüstung von elastischer Denimware
stretch denim.
Elastische Denimware hat sich in der Denim-Industrie bereits etabliert mit
These articles today have a more natural appearance and are far less
shiny (1). These articles require a few treatment steps more than for normal wachsendem Marktanteil. Viele Premium Denim Brands setzen modernen
classic denim finishing. The finishing process is therefore slightly more Stretch-Denim ein. Diese Artikel haben heute ein natürlicheres Aussehen
costly, but the prices that can be achieved are also somewhat better than und sind nicht mehr so glänzend (1). Diese Artikel brauchen einige Behand-
for the class denim fabric. lungsschritte mehr als bei der üblichen klassischen Denim-Veredlung. Die
Apart from elastic texturised PES, for example, ‘xpand’ from Trevira (D) Veredlung ist damit etwas teurer, aber auch die erzielten Preise sind etwas
with approximately 20% stretch, and yarns of elastane fibres with besser als bei der klassischen Denimware.
approximately 40% stretch, are frequently used to maintain the form Neben elastischem texturiertem PES, z.B. „xpand” von Trevira (D) mit ca.
stability and to improve the wearing comfort. 20 % Dehnung, werden zur Erhaltung der Formstabilität und zur
Of the elastane fibres Dorlastan®, Lycra®, Linel®, Glospun®, Roicka®, Verbesserung des Tragekomforts häufig Garne aus Elastanfasern mit ca.
Teplon®, etc., can be used. 40% Dehnung eingesetzt.

Bei den Elastanfasern können

Dorlastan®, Lycra®, Linel®, Glospun®, Roicka®, Teplon® usw.
Fig.1 / Abb.1 zum Einsatz kommen.

Vom Molekülaufbau ist Elastan ein Gebilde aus einem Polyurethan-Hartseg-

ment und einem Polyether- oder Polyester Weichsegment, wobei das,
Weichsegment” für die Eigenschaften der Faser verantwortlich ist. Da eine
Vielzahl von diesen Fasertypen anzutreffen sind, ist es unumgänglich, dass
die Hinweise der entsprechenden Faserhersteller in Bezug auf
kontrolliertem Schrumpf und guter Faserfixierung beachtet werden. Die
Abweichungsbereiche der jeweiligen zum Einsatz kommenden
Elastanfasern sollten beim Hersteller erfragt werden, um optimale
Bedingungen für die Ausrüstung zu schaffen. Bei der Auswahl der
Ausrüstungsparameter (pH-Wert, Behandlungszeit und Mechanikeinfluss)
muss aus Sicht der eingesetzten Elastanfasern darauf geachtet werden,
dass die angestrebten Fertigwarendaten des Artikels nicht beeinträchtigt
werden. Für Denim-Artikel kommen Baumwollmischungen mit
unterschiedlichen %-Anteilen an Elastan zum Einsatz.

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Finishing of Denim Veredlung von Denim

Fig. 2 / Abb. 2 Das Verhalten von schusselastischer Denimware
Eine klassische Denimware ohne Elastananteil hat normalerweise eine
Rohbreite von 158-160cm. Die Waschproben solcher Artikel ergeben
durchschnittlich

einen Krumpf von: - 15 % in Kettrichtung

und - 6 % in Schussrichtung.

Die schusselastische Denimware mit Elastananteil kann eine Rohbreite von z.

B. 180 cm haben und krumpft bei der Waschprobe ebenfalls durchschnittlich

um: - 15 % in Kettrichtung,
aber um - 34 % in Schussrichtung.

From its molecular structure, elastane is a fibre with a polyurethane hard Das heißt, die Ware hat nach der Wäsche noch eine Breite von ca. 119 cm,
segment and a polyether or polyester soft segment, whereby the ‘soft und das bei einer gewünschten Fertigbreite von 151 cm. Die schusselastische
segment’ is responsible for the properties of the fibre. Denimware muss also unter allen Umständen stabilisiert werden.
As a large number of these fibre types are encountered, it is essential to
observe the information provided by the respective fibre producers with Es wird stabilisiert, d. h. thermofixiert, um:
respect to controlled shrinkage and good fibre fixing. • eine gewünschte Dehnbarkeit,
The producer should be consulted on the deviation ranges of the • ein gewünschtes Quadratmetergewicht,
elastane fibres to be used in order to create optimum conditions for • eine gewünschte Fertigbreite,
finishing. When selecting the finishing parameters (pH value, treatment • eine gewünschte Verbesserung der Dimensionsstabilität und
time and mechanical influence), care must be taken from the point of view • ein Vermeiden von Kaltkriechschrumpf zu erzielen.
of the elastane fibres that the intended finished product data of the article Fixierbereiche liegen bei 180 bis 200 °C mit 15 - 60 sec Verweilzeit.
are not impaired. In diesem Bereich reagiert die Ware unter optimalen Bedingungen.
For denim articles, cotton blends with different percentages of elastane Die in diesem Artikel genannten Zeiten sind Erfahrungswerte der
are used. betreffenden Ausrüster.

The behaviour of weft-elastic denim fabric Die diskontinuierliche Veredlungsmethode von

A classic denim fabric without elastane content normally has a grey width of schusselastischer Denimware
158 - 160cm. The washing tests on such articles show on average a Nach dem Sengen wird die schusselastische Denim-Rohware (180cm
shrinkage of 15% in warp direction and 6% in weft direction. Warenbreite) auf einer Waschmaschine einer Heißwasserpassage unterzogen,
The weft-elastic denim fabric with elastane content can have a grey wobei hier die Ware gewaschen und grob entschlichtet wird. Danach wird
width of e.g 180cm. It also shrinks during the washing test on average by die Ware vorgetrocknet, foulardiert (appretiert) und auf dem Spannrahmen
15% in warp direction and by 34% in weft direction. getrocknet und fixiert. Trocknungs - und Fixiertemperatur 190 °C, Spannbreite
This means that the fabric still has an approximate width of 119cm after 152 cm. Als dritte Behandlung erfolgt der kompressive Krumpfprozess.
washing and with a desired finished width of 151cm. The weft-elastic denim Die zu krumpfende Ware wird mit Wasser besprüht, über eine
fabric always has therefore to be stabilised. Dämpftrommel geführt, in einem Schussrichter schräg gestellt und dann
dem Gummikalander mit einer definierten Gummituchanpressung
It is stabilised, i.e. heat-set in order to achieve: zugeführt, um danach auf dem Filzkalander fertig getrocknet zu werden.
• A desired stretch, Anstatt des Sprühsystems kann auch der Matex-ECO-Applicator zum
• A desired weight per square metre, gezielten Feuchteauftrag eingesetzt werden. Die Warenbreite vor dem
• A desired finished width, Gummikalander war 150cm, die Warenbreite nach dem Filzkalander war
• A desired improvement in the dimensional stability ebenfalls 150cm.
• Avoid cold creep shrinkage
Die Waschkrumpf-Werte nach der Behandlung ergaben:
Fixing ranges at 180 to 200°C lie in the order of 15 - 60 seconds dwell time.
Restkrumpf in Kettrichtung: -1%
Within this range, the fabric reacts under optimum conditions. The times
Restkrumpf in Schussrichtung: - 1,5 %
cited in this article are empirical values from the respective finishers.
und liegen damit im Bereich der internationalen Normen, z. B. von Levis,
Lee, Wrangler, Maverick, Mustang, General usw.
The discontinuous finishing method for weft-elastic denim fabric
Diese respektablen Restkrumpfwerte wurden in drei separaten
After singeing, the weft-elastic denim grey cloth (180 cm fabric width)
Ausrüstungsschritten erzielt. [Abb. 2] zeigt die drei Teilschritte der
undergoes hot washing on a washing machine where the fabric is washed
diskontinuierlichen Veredlung. Waschen und Teilentschlichten auf einer
and the majority of the size removed.
Waschmaschine mit anschließender Trocknung, Appretieren, Schußrichten,
The fabric is then predried, padded (liquor application) and then dried
Trocknen und Fixieren auf dem Spannrahmen Krumpfen auf der
and fixed on a stenter. Drying and fixing temperature190°C, stentering
kompressiven Krumpfanlage.
width 152cm.
The third finishing step is the compressive shrinkage process.
The fabric to be shrunk is sprayed with water, passed over a steaming
drum, skewed on a weft straightener and then fed to the rubber calender
with a defined rubber blanket pressure, before finally being dried on the felt
calender.
Instead of the spray system, the Matex-ECO-Applicator can also be
used for a selective moisture application.
The fabric width before the rubber calender was 150cm. The fabric width Fig.3 / Abb. 3
after the felt calender is also 150cm.

The washed shrinkage values after treatment showed:

Residual shrinkage in warp direction - 1%
Residual shrinkage in weft direction - 1.5%
and therefore lies within the range of the international standards of, for
example, Levis, Lee, Wrangler, Maverick and Mustang, etc.

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Finishing of Denim Veredlung von Denim

Fig. 4 / Abb. 4

These respectable residual shrinkage values are achieved in three

separate finishing steps. [Fig. 2] shows the three steps of the discontinuous Die halbkontinuierliche Veredlungsmethode von schusselastischer
finishing process. Washing and partial desizing on a washing machine with Denimware
subsequent drying, Liquor application, weft straightening, drying and fixing Denimveredler, die eine klassische Denim-Ausrüstungsanlage haben
on the stenter. Shrinking on the compressive shrinkage range. [Abb. 3], können Stretch-Denim auf der vorhandenen Anlage veredeln, wenn
sie die Ware nach dem Sengen vorher waschen und fixieren. Die gewasch-
The semi-continuous finishing method for weft-elastic denim fabric ene und bei 180 - 190 °C vorfixierte Ware wird dann der Denim-Ausrüs-
Denim finishers with a classic denim finishing range [Fig. 3] can finish tungsanlage vorgelegt.
stretch denim on the existing range if they first wash and fix the fabric after Die gesamte Anlagenkonfiguration wird nur zum Teil genutzt. Die
singeing. The fabric, washed and pre-fixed at 180-190°C, can then be fed Anlagenkonfiguration soll an einem Ausrüstungsbeispiel für Stretch Denim
to the denim finishing range. (240 g/m²) erläutert werden [Abb. 3b].
Only part of the whole range configuration is used. The range Die Warenvorlage erfolgt vom Stapel oder ab Kaule. Warenbreite 160 cm.
configuration is explained here taking the example of the finishing of stretch Eine Mulde mit Warenbahnführern kann den Kaulenwechsel ohne Stopp
denim (240g/m²) [Fig. 3b]. erleichtern. Mit dem Foulard wird die Ausrüstungsflotte aufgetragen. Das
The fabric is fed from the staple or roll. Fabric width 160cm. A scray with Reckwerk ist nicht im Einsatz.
fabric web guides can simplify roll changing without a line stop. The finishing Mit Zylindertrocknern wird die Ware vorgetrocknet; danach erfolgt im
liquor is applied with the padder. The stretcher is not in operation. warmen und noch feuchten Zustand die Schussrichterpassage. In einer
The fabric is predried on cylinder driers and then while still warm and Egalisiermaschine mit Nadelkette und Voreileinrichtung erfolgt die
damp passes through the weft straightener. Width control and width Breitenkontrolle bzw. die Breitenkorrektur. Die Resttrocknung erfolgt wiederum
correction are performed on a levelling stenter frame with needle chain and auf den Zylindertrocknern. Mit einer überwachten und geregelten Restfeuchte
overfeed device. gelangt die Ware zur Gummibandkrumpfanlage und dem Filzkalander.
The residual drying is again performed on the cylinder driers. With a Eine entsprechende Anzahl von Kühlzylindern sorgt für die benötigte
monitored and controlled residual moisture, the fabric is fed to the rubber Warenkühlung. Auslaufmulde mit Warenbahnführern und Sochor-/Taflerkom-
blanket shrinkage range and to the felt calender. binationen sorgen auch hier für den Kaulenwechsel ohne Anlagenstopp.
A corresponding number of cooling cylinders ensure the necessary Die gewünschten Restkrumpfwerte werden hier in zwei
fabric cooling. Here again, a delivery scray with fabric web guides and Ausrüstungsschritten erzielt:
Sochor/Folder combinations allows roll changing without a line stop. Waschen, Trocknen und Vorfixieren, Ausrüsten und Krumpfen auf der
The desired residual shrinkage values are achieved in two finishing steps: Denimanlage.
Washing, drying and pre-fixing,
Finishing and shrinking on the denim range. Die vollkontinuierliche Veredlungsmethode
von schusselastischer Denimware
The fully continuous finishing method for weft-elastic denim fabric Bei Neuplanungen von Denimausrüstungsanlagen wird immer häufiger der
When planning new denim finishing ranges, the wish is frequently expressed to Wunsch laut, nichtelastische und schusselastische Denimware auf der
be able to finish non-elastic and weft-elastic denim fabrics on the same range. gleichen Anlage zu veredeln.
For the non-elastic denim fabric, washing compartments have been part Für die nichtelastische Denimware haben Waschabteile schon seit längerer
of the denim range for many years. For weft-elastic denim fabrics, however, Zeit Einzug in die Denimanlage gehalten. Für schusselastische Denimware
not only the washing process but also the fixing process to stabilise the wird aber nicht nur der Waschprozess, sondern auch der Fixierprozess zur
fabric is required. Stabilisierung der Ware gebraucht. [Abb. 4] zeigt eine Anlagenkonfiguration
[Fig. 4] shows a range configuration for normal denim articles with für normale Denimartikel mit der Möglichkeit, große Produktionsanteile
the possibility of continuous finishing of large production quantities of schusselastischer Denimware, vollkontinuierlich zu veredeln.
weft-elastic denim fabric.
Beschreibung des Warenlaufes auf der Anlage
Description of the fabric passage through the range Nach Abrollung, Putzen und Sengen (1) wird die Ware gewaschen (2),
After unrolling, cleaning and singeing (1) the fabric is washed (2), squeezed abgequetscht und wieder foulardiert (3) (ein Saugbalken kann die
and padded again (3) (a suction bar can increase the moisture difference for Feuchtedifferenz für die zweite Foulardpassage vergrößern). Als zweiter
the second padder passage). Foulard kann auch der Matex ECO-Aapplicator eingesetzt werden.
The Matex ECO-Applicator can also be used as the second padder. Während nichtelastische Denimware gereckt und schräggestellt (4) vom
Non-elastic denim fabric is stretched and skewed (4) and fed from the Zylindertrockner (5) mit geregelter Restfeuchte zur Breitenkontrolle über den
cylinder drier (5) with controlled residual moisture to the width control via Spannrahmen (6) und dann dem Gummi- und Filzkalander (7) zugeführt
the stenter (6). It is then fed to the rubber and felt calender (7). The elastic wird, muss die elastische Denimware im Spannrahmen thermofixiert werden.
denim fabric has to be heat-set on the stenter. Nach dem Fixierprozess wird die übertrocknete Ware gekühlt und wieder
After the fixing process, the over-dried fabric is cooled and moistened befeuchtet (8), damit die zur Krumpfung benötigte Feuchte wieder in der
again (8) so that the fabric again has the required moisture necessary for Ware vorhanden ist.
shrinking. Die Auslaufkombination (9) mit Mulde und Sochoraufrollung sorgt für eine
The delivery combination (9) with scray and Sochor winder ensures spannungsarme Aufrollung der gekrumpften schusselastischen Ware.
strain-free winding of the shrunk, weft-elastic fabric. Gegenüber der diskontinuierlichen Methode ist die vollkontinuierliche
Compared with the discontinuous method, the investment costs for the Methode in den Anschaffungskosten etwas höher, in den Kosten pro Meter
fully continuous method are slightly higher, but this is the less expensive aber die günstigere Methode.
method in the costs per metre.

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Finishing of Denim Veredlung von Denim

The following points favour the use of the fully continuous method Folgende Vorteile schlagen für die vollkontinuierliche Methode
for the finishing of weft-elastic denim fabrics: zur Behandlung von schusselastischer Denimware zu Buche:
• Higher utilisation of the range • höherer Nutzeffekt der Anlage,
• Higher production speed • höhere Produktionsgeschwindigkeit
• Lower space requirement • geringerer Platzbedarf und
• Lower personnel costs • geringere Personalkosten.

The latest fully continuous finishing method for classic and elastic Die neueste vollkontinuierliche Veredlungsmethode
denim fabrics für klassische- und elastische Denimware
The most modern, most ecological and most economical denim range Die modernste, ökologischste und ökonomischste Denimanlagen-
version is shown in [Fig. 5]. Version zeigt [Abb. 5]. Mit dieser Anlage lassen sich Warenbahnen aus
This range allows fabric webs of 100% cotton and of cotton blends 100 % Baumwolle und aus Baumwollmischungen mit Elastan veredeln.
with elastane to be finished. Different setting parameters are selected, Je nach Qualität werden unterschiedliche Einstellparameter angewählt.
depending on the quality.
Der Warenlauf ist wie folgt:
The fabric passage is as follows: Nach der Abrollung wird die Rohware geputzt und gesengt. In der
After unrolling, the grey fabric is cleaned and singed. In the following nachfolgenden Waschmaschine wird teilentschlichtet und der erste Krumpf
washing machine, the fabric is partly desized and the first shrinkage in the in Länge und Breite der Warenbahn findet statt. Je nach Größe der
length and width of the fabric web takes place. Depending on the size of Waschmaschine lassen sich noch andere Prozesse einbinden.
the washing machine, other processes can be integrated. Ein Hochleistungs-Quetschwerk entwässert die Warenbahn optimal für
A high-performance squeezing unit optimally dewaters the fabric web for einen Nass-in-Nass-Prozess. Die Ausrüstungsflotte wird im Minimalauftrag
a wet-in-wet process. Minimal amounts of finishing liquor are applied with mit dem ECO-Applicator aufgebracht. Eine Konzentrationskontrolle der
the ECO-Applicator. A concentration check of the finishing liquor (as is Ausrüstungsflotte (wie bei dem Nass-in-Nass-Verfahren mit zwei Foulards
necessary with the wet-in-wet process with two padders) can be eliminated nötig) kann hier entfallen. Beim ECO-Applicator-Einsatz wird die
here. When using the ECO-Applicator, the finishing liquor is not diluted. Ausrüstungsflotte nicht verwässert.
The fabric is then predried in the cylinder drier unit. Residual drying, Mit dem Zylindertrockenteil wird die Ware vorgetrocknet. Die
stretching and skewing are performed on the Thermex 6500 stretching Resttrocknung, Reckung und Schrägstellung erfolgt auf dem Thermex 6500
and skewing-unit. Reck- und Richtwerk. Die Ware wird dabei behutsam stufenweise gereckt,
The fabric is thereby carefully stretched in stages by passing it over rollers indem sie über Walzen geführt und in kleinen Schritten schräggestellt
while skewing and stretching in small steps. The process takes place in a und gereckt wird. Der Vorgang läuft in einem definierten Wärme- und
defined temperature and moisture climate and achieves better fabric Feuchteklima ab und erzielt bessere Warenausfälle.
appearances.
Dies bedeutet im Vergleich zur herkömmlichen Denim-Recktechnik:
Compared with the conventional denim stretching technique this means: Signifikant geringere Reckkräfte und weniger Warenspannung, besserer
significantly lower stretching forces, less fabric tension, better ‘look and „Look and Feel”, höhere Produktionsgeschwindigkeit und eine einfachere
feel’ with higher production speed and simpler residual moisture control. Restfeuchteregelung.
The fabric width, skew and number of filling threads is monitored by a Die Warenbreite, die Schrägstellung und die Schussfadenzahl werden
special camera and the measured values are converted into corresponding von einer speziellen Kamera aufgenommen und die Messwerte in
control pulses for the range control. entsprechende Regelimpulse zur Anlagensteuerung umgewandelt.
The following stenter with upline Matex ECO-Applicator and a coating Der nachfolgende Spannrahmen, mit vorgeschaltetem Matex ECO-
range is then used either for finishing, drying of the coating or surface Applicator und einer Beschichtungsanlage, wird dann je nach Artikel
stabilisation (fixing), depending on the article. wahlweise zum Ausrüsten, Trocknen der Beschichtung oder
The machine settings depend on the process to be employed. The fabric Flächenstabilisierung (Fixierung) eingesetzt.
arrives at the range for the compressive shrinking process with a controlled Die Maschineneinstellungen richten sich nach dem zu fahrenden
residual moisture content or with moisture application using the Matex Prozess. Mit einer geregelten Restfeuchte oder mit einem Feuchteantrag
ECO-Applicator. mittels Matex ECO-Applicator erreicht die Ware die Anlage für den
Two rubber calenders and two felt calenders ensure a high production kompressiven Krumpfprozess. Zwei Gummikalander und zwei Filzkalander
speed with gentle use of the rubber blanket and effective energy consumption. sorgen für eine hohe Produktionsgeschwindigkeit bei schonendem
Two rubber calenders and two felt calenders are required to produce, for Gummitucheinsatz und effektivem Energieverbrauch. Zwei Gummikalander
example, denim of 14.5oz/yd² with 1-2% residual shrinkage with at least
und zwei Filzkalander werden benötigt, um z. B. Denim von 14,5 oz/syd mit
7m/min.
1-2 % Restkrumpf mit mindestens 70 m/min zu produzieren. Eine
Low-tension guidance of the fabric during rolling is important for the end
spannungsarme Warenführung zur Aufrollung ist für das Prozessende
of the process.
wichtig.
Conclusion
Schlussbetrachtung
When we look at the ‘flyers’ of the department stores and the catalogues
Schaut man einmal in die Auslagen der Kaufhäuser und in die Kataloge
from the leading suppliers of leisure wear, the classic denim fabric and
namhafter Anbieter von Freizeitkleidung, so nehmen die klassische
weft-elastic denim fabric take up a good proportion of the pages.
Denimware und die schusselastische Denimware schon einige
It is really quite remarkable what the ‘denim mafia’ comes up with year
Angebotsseiten in Anspruch. Es ist recht bemerkenswert, was sich die
after year to boost the market growth.
„Denim-Mafia” Jahr für Jahr einfallen lässt, um dem Markt Wachstum zu
Denim finishing and jeans production are among the most innovative
verschaffen. Denim-Veredlung und Jeans-Fertigung gehören zu den
segments of the textile industry.
innovativsten Gebieten der Textilindustrie.

Fig. 5 / Abb. 5

Literature / Literatur :[1] The Denim Bible, Jeans Encyclopedia III, 2011, by sportswear international, page/Seite 312.

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||
…lots of Turkish,
Italian and French
Hellenic
||
From Hellenic Fabrics, a new range of
customers ladieswear featuring 98% cotton and
2% elastane, offering comfort-stretch
with 40 - 62% stretch; plus three new
colours including satin.
The Greek company specialises
in premium denim fabric. A new
Nana Houzanna, collection also featured a wide variety
Hellenic Fabrics of denim fabrics in terms of weave,
composition and finishing.

Culture of sustainability
Launched just last spring, the Viking
range of denim from Arvind saw four
new colours and three new shades of
brown, blue and green introduced.
For its Cruiser range, Arvind
launched a top side with either a
colour or transfer coating and a
coating or multiple colours on the
backside of the denim.
”Another debut with the latest
collection was a ‘leather look’ 11oz
denim, offering up to 36% stretchabilty,”
announced Arvind’s Country Manager
Bangladesh, Anil Kumar.
Arvind was formed in 1930 and
pioneered the manufacture of denim
in India during the 1980’s. It currently
produces 110 million m/year
making the company a
leading global producer.
Core competencies
features design,
innovations and
sustainability
with the company
exporting to 70
||
countries worldwide. ...a leather look
Leading clients
denim with up to
||
include GAP, Levi
Straus, Abercrombie
& Fitch and Calvin Klein. 36% stretchability.

Anil Kumar
Country Manager Bangladesh,
Arvind

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comfort-stretch jeans
Available in fabric weights between
7 - 14 oz/yd² for female, male and
children’s jeans, the collection also
featured a wide range of colours.
In summing up the show, Hellenic’s
Nana Houzanna, confirmed that
”despite these difficult economic
times, it has been a very good show
with lots of Turkish, Italian and French
customers.”

Two-sided denim from Absolute

Introduced in Munich last year,
Absolute Denim received ”great
feedback to its two-sided denim,”
according to the company’s Sales
& Marketing Spokesman.
As a direct result, the Thai company
has extended the range with another
five new colours on the inside and five
different colours on the backside;
creating a two-sided denim jean.
A new ‘washed look’ for the Polar
and Newton collections also saw five
new colours introduced.
Absolute Denim’s production
facilities in Thailand are ranked as
one of the most modern mills in the
world with a 90,000 m² building;
producing up to 2 million m/month
under a single roof.

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Four new collections from Çalık Blue

Turkey’s Çalik Blue was formed in
1987 to offer a ‘new perspective to
||
the textile industry with innovation, The denim is
creativity, quality, concepts and textile
treated like an
||
technology’. And they did not
disappoint, launching four new
collections - Classic, Vintage, artist’s canvas
de-luxe and non-denim.
”For the denim Classic range, for Faith Türk
example, rather than the all-over
bleached and splattered looks of Sales & Marketing
recent seasons, we have created a Director,
more controlled approach to ‘painterly’ Çal| k Blue
jeans with flecks of white carefully
applied,” explained Sales and
Marketing Director, Fatih Türk,
adding, ”The denim is treated like an
artist’s canvas.”
The company has retained its
principles and has rapidly become
a fully integrated denim producer;
starting production of gabardine
fabrics in 2004.
Today it is recognised as an
international player with markets Tri-blend technology from Tavex
across Europe, the USA, China,
Singapore, Israel and North Africa. A new generation of stretch fabrics, based on innovative
technology offers a ‘renewed vision of stretch.’

It features a tri-blend yarn structure,

Lycra dualFX, which features the high
stretch properties of Lycra fibre and
the recovery and low shrinkage power
of Lycra T400 fibres, plus the versatility
of cotton.
The result claims Tavex is maximum
elasticity and resistance, high recovery
and low shrinkage; providing super
stretch denim that is comfortable to
wear and retains its shape.
Tavex’s collection also featured a
new evolution of pastels in bright
impressionistic colours including
pinks, clear translucent turquoise and
kiwi, plus sky blues from pale to the
deepest blue.
In 2006 Tavex and Brazil’s Santista
Textil merged to form the Tavex
Corporation offering a consolidated
background of more than 150 years in
the production of denim, flats and
workwear textiles.
The company today produces over
185 million m/year from its 10 factories
worldwide and is considered to be the
world’s biggest denim producer.

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This latest innovation, ‘Reform,’

Super soft offers, according to Banu Yenici,

Senior Marketing Executive,
”incomparable holding and stretch.”

and shape ”It looks one size smaller - a key

word for ladies - with recall technology
using iSKO yarns.”

retention ”For menswear however, Lycra has

been difficult to market as being
considered as unmanly. This is all set

from iSKO to change soon with a new weaving

innovation, LoomFX,” she disclosed.
Also making its debut, Bluegeox,
made in collaboration with Geox, and
iSKO, extended its popular offering super soft-touch jeans made
with a thermo regulating denim;
jegging range of denim with using carded yarns with the same
iSKO Recall technology to techniques employed for wool.
Considered as a leader in the
offer improved recovery. production of denim fabric technologies
globally, iSKO offers a wide range of
The Turkish company also introduced innovative textile products to meet
super stretch and shape retention for the diverse needs of the denim sector.
‘skinny’ jeans combining Lycra and It has offices in 35 countries around
Lycra T400 fibres in a single fibre. the world.

Culture of sustainability
With a strong culture of sustainability, It prides itself by offering premium
Pakistan’s Artistic Milliners collection quality denim fabrics to meet client
focussed on its finishing side of needs with package deals featuring
jeans - reducing the overall water product development, design
consumption and energy demands support, reduced lead times and
in the manufacturing processes. on-time deliveries.
The company was established in With a new ‘state of the art’ denim
1949 and is recognised as a vertical mill AM-5, the company’s production
integrated textile producer and one of capacity will be increased to 3 million
the world’s largest denim producers. metres.

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New denim shirts

Turkey’s Matesa Denim was formed in
1989 producing yarns and knit
fabrics and starting production of
denim in 2006. Today it is a fully vertical
integrated producer, specialising in
lightweight special denim fabrics
using tencel, cupro, elastane, mixed
polyester and cotton.
The new collection featured denim
shirts and 4.5 oz/yd² lightweight
denim.
The company’s reputation is
synonymous with quality. Its mill is
equipped with the latest technology
to produce the latest fashionable
rope-dyed denim fabrics with
special finishes.

Lightweight collection
A wide range of 5 - 6 oz lightweight
denims for ladies tops and shirts
featured highly in Berto Industra
Tessile’s collection with super stretch,
double twist and special coatings.
Formed in 1889, and originally
producing sail cloth for Venetian
sailing boats, Berto expanded its
range to include woven fabrics for
work garments, table linen, shirtings
and, in the 1980’s, denim.
Continuous investment has been
the key company’s continued success.
As denim output grew, the company
installed an indigo dyeing plant and
recently took delivery of a new Montex
stenter featuring the country’s first
Monforts ECO-Applicator unit; allow-
ing the company to undertake new
denim treatments and effects.
Leading European designer brands
supplied by the Italian producer
include; Armani, Dolce & Gabbana and
Valentino.

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Sustainable lifestyle of the primary manufacturers in the

marketplace, producing over
60 million metres/year.

and production As a leading denim brand, Orta

pursues a sustainable lifestyle and
production. It founded its sustainability
The collection from Orta Anadolou incorporated with an exclusively division in 2010 and already uses a
collection introduced a range of designed, second-hand ‘look.’ 5% improved cotton in production.
exceptional inky blue denims and a The Turkish company started denim
brand new authentic green shade, production in 1985 and remains one

to the environment and desire for

New era of Tencel high quality fabrics - giving innovative,

functional and fashionable features,
including wrinkle free, faster drying
From Textil Santanderina, Tencel contrasts plus compatibility with and wash resistant.
fabrics have been processed with coating, drying and personalized Located in Northern Spain,
Eco-Sandye ecological dyeing finishing Textil Santanderina has been
process to offer improved colour The new process’s development awarded certification for OEKO-Tex
fixing, more effects and colour was led by the company’s sensitivity Standard 100.

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Montex stenter incr

production of stretch
Tavex Corporation has upgraded stretches but manufactured much representitive for Mexico.
closer to the US market. Mr Avendano added that the
its manufacturing facilities in
The eight-chamber Montex is Montex has features which make the
Mexico to increase sales to the able to handle material to a width machine particularly suitable for denim
US market with a new Montex of 200cm and was delivered and manufacture, allowing the elimination
installed by Sattex, the Monforts of several traditional process steps.
stenter for the production of
stretched denim.
Tavex Corporation, the world’s largest
manufacturer of denim, has installed a
Montex stenter at its Tlaxcala factory
in Mexico to increase production of
stretched denim.
Tavex Corporation acquired
Mexican denim manufacturer Acotex,
with its plants in Puebla and Tlaxcala,
as a move designed to increase
access to the US market.
Founded more than 150 years ago,
Tavex also has denim manufacturing
plants in Spain, Morocco, Brazil and
Argentina.
Adalberto Avendano, Tavex’s
manager for dyeing and finishing at
Tlaxcala, said that the installation of
the Montex was part of the company’s
programme to upgrade facilities at the
factory, which is devoted to denim
production.
”We already had two Sanforisors at
Tlaxcala, and there are Monforts
stenters at other plants within the
group”, he says. ”We are therefore
familiar with the technology and
maintenance support.
”There is one stenter here from
another manufacturer, which dates
back to the time when this was an
Acotex factory, but our familiarity with
Monforts meant that we were happy
to invest in a Montex to extend our
production range.”
Stretch denim is the biggest volume
trend in the market and in Mexico
Tavex is putting considerable emphasis
on expanding the stretch business.
The strategy is, says Mr Avendano,
to emulate the premium European

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reases
h denim
”This really is a stenter that is
perfect for denim,” he says. ”Monforts
and Sattex installed and commissioned
the machine, and trained our operators
and maintenance staff. Now the
machine is practically handling itself.”

The Montex is handling materials

widths of between 170 and 180cm,
at weights that range between
290gm/m2 and 460gm/m2.
”We decided to split the production
of denim types between our existing
stenter, which is producing standard
denim, and the Montex, which is
producing stretched denim,” said
Mr Avendano.
”The machines are working
Monday to Thursday on a 24-hour
basis, with two 12-hour shifts, and
on Friday, Saturday and Sunday they
are not working.
”On this basis, the two machines
are processing at the rate of 17 million
metres of denim per year. During the
period March to December 2011,
starting from the time the Montex
came on-line, it processed 6 million
metres of stretched denim. So on a
yearly basis, production is evenly di-
vided between the two.”
Mr Avendano says that 90% of
Tavex’s Mexican production is going to
the US, the world’s largest market for
denim. Tavex’s total denim
capacity at its Mexican plants is more
than 20 million metres per year.

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Competence in
Denim Finishing

A. Monforts Textilmaschinen GmbH & Co. KG

Germany | A Member of Fong’s Industries Group

www.monforts.com