CONTENTS

JANUARY 2019

Food Wine & Drinks

38 TOP TOQUE 60 VINE EXPECTATIONS
Yoshihiro Narisawa, Johannes Gebeshuber from
Narisawa Weingut Gebeshuber

50 MORE THAN JUST A SIP 64 RAISING THE BAR

Rare teas and brews to New whisky releases to usher
rejuvenate jaded palates. in the new year

Entertaining 66 CELLAR CHOICE

72 CLEAN EATING, GREEN EATING Vegan-friendly wines
Redefining plant-based fare
69 TIPPLE TIPS
84 MASTERCLASS Little Red Dot
Gluten-free recipes: pumpkin
gnocchi and sprouting
broccolini & radicchio salad

72
Clean
eating,
green
eating

2 epicureasia.com
Travel
88 CHEF'S TRAVELOGUE 14 EPICURE NEWS
Exploring the hidden gems Usher in the Year of the Pig
of San Francisco with lavish yu sheng and
festive menus
92 FREQUENT FLYER
Renowned photographer 20 GLOBETROTTING EPICURE
Steve McCurry Hot new eats in Los Angeles,
Switzerland and London
94 THE TREASURED ISLAND
Discovering the island 30 EPICURE LOOKBOOK
sanctuary that is Noku Ovolo Inchcolm
Maldives
34 STYLE BUZZ
Regulars 10 horological gems
4 EDITOR’S NOTE
100 FOOD TALK
13 EPICURE LOVES Please, I'm flabulous
The Creative Retreat of
Garden Isle 102 STOCKISTS

104 EPICURE’S CHOICE

The things we crave
this month

88
Single
Thread

epicureasia.com 3
 E D I TO R ’ S N OT E

S TA R T W I T H A
C L E A N S L AT E
I f there’s one trend conscious foodies would like to see become mainstream, it’s the plant-based diet. For too long,
plant-based enthusiasts have been pigeonholed as uptight hipsters. That’s slowly but surely changing. Whether it’s for
health, environmental or ethical reasons, global consumer demand for alternative proteins has been on the upside and
looks set to soar in the coming years.
Plant-based foods earned a positive reception from consumers in Singapore last year. Diners readily lapped up
the Beyond Burger from Grand Hyatt Singapore. The hotel launched the “100 percent plant-based, gluten-free, soy-
free “bleeding” burger patty” to much fanfare, purportedly selling 1,000 burgers a day during the promotion period.
It followed up with the Sweet & Sour Omnipork, a blend of plant-based protein made from pea, non-GMO soy, shiitake
mushroom and rice. While most Chinese restaurants have a repertoire of vegetarian dishes to cater to their guests,
Si Chuan Dou Hua embraces vegetable-forward dining. Their third collaboration with Taipei’s Yang Ming Spring Green
Kitchen has resulted in many scrumptious dishes, such as Baked Water Bamboo Shoots with Japanese Miso, Mushroom
Ball with Spinach Purée, and Stir-fried fresh Peas in Vermicelli Nest. Greenies poured over plant-based cookbooks like
The Ultimate Vegan Barbecue Cookbook and BOSH! with rabid passion.
We hope that our January issue, however, can reach out to a wider audience - the meat lovers. Instead
of a 180-degree change to your diet, more often than not baby steps can often lead to big leaps. Introduce a
#meatlessmonday to your family meals and load up on the freshest vegetables you can find at your neighourhood
supermarket. Make yourself a green smoothie (that actually tastes good) once a week. Find a buddy who will support and
join on your plant-based journey.
Because taste is often cited as an obstacle to following a plant-based diet, we have worked with chef-owner Andrew
Walsh of CURE to come up with a recipe spread of colourful dishes that are bursting with flavour. Yes, they are so good,
you wouldn’t mind skipping the meat sometimes. e

Adeline Wong
Managing Editor

We love to hear your feedback.

Andrew Walsh, the man behind the pages of vibrantly coloured [email protected] instagram.com/adelinewongcy
plant-based recipes in this issue.

4 epicureasia.com
 life’s refinements

SENIOR PUBLISHER Cecilia Goh ([email protected])

MANAGING EDITOR Adeline Wong ([email protected])

WINE EDITOR June Lee ([email protected])

ASSOCIATE EDITOR Eve Tedja ([email protected])
STAFF WRITER Jessica Chan ([email protected])
DIGITAL WRITER Victoria Lim ([email protected])

SENIOR DESIGNER Darryl Pestana ([email protected])

IT & DIGITAL MEDIA DIRECTOR Jun Evangelista ([email protected])

DIGITAL MEDIA PRODUCER Tu Jie Rui ([email protected])

CONTRIBUTORS Andrew Walsh, Benjamin Ng, Celine Yap, Ching,

Eddie Teo, Lim An-Ling, Xie Huiqun, Xin, Yong Woei Na

REGIONAL BUSINESS DIRECTOR Dewi Prasodjo ([email protected])

SENIOR BUSINESS MANAGER Jack Ang ([email protected])

ADMIN & MARKETING EXECUTIVE Sheila Devi ([email protected])

MARKETING EXECUTIVE Shauna Mun ([email protected])

MANAGING DIRECTOR Dennis Pua ([email protected])

PUBLISHING CONSULTANT Ho Sum Kwong ([email protected])

epicure is published 12 times a year by Magazines Integrated Pte Ltd

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ON THE COVER Copyright by the Publisher. Reproduction in whole or in part without the written permission of the Publisher is strictly
prohibited. Views and opinions expressed in epicure are not neccessarily those of the Publisher and the Editors. Although
Photos Ching every reasonable care has been taken to ensure the accuracy and objectivity of the information provided in this publication,
Art direction and styling Yong Woei Na neither the Publisher, editors and their employees and agents can be held liable for any error and omission, nor any action
Recipe by Andrew Walsh of CURE taken based on the views expressed or information provided within this publication. All prices are in Singapore dollars unless
Shot at CURE otherwise stated and exclude miscellaneous taxes.

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 E P I C U R E LOV E S

The Creative Retreat of Garden Isle

Yearning to learn a new skill in 2019? Why not do it and enjoy a vacation at the same time? Botanical
artist Lucinda Law’s illustration workshop takes you to Kauai, Hawaii, for The Creative Retreat of Garden
Isle from 23 February to 3 March. Guests will embark on a journey through Kauai’s many private gardens,
including Allerton Private Gardens and McBryde Garden, as well as the picturesque Napali Coast with Law
and botanist Bian Tan to master botanical illustration. Attendees can expect an in-depth look into endemic
plants, from the soft blooms of PĎhinahina and Ilima to vibrant succulents. The dates coincide with the 1st
Waimea Festival and Sunday Farmer’s Market, where guests can indulge in live music and local fare. There’s
also an option to add an awe-inspiring helicopter ride ($280) over Jurassic Falls and Olokele Canyon, or a Sunrise Napali Cruise ($220) to
spot a playful pod of spinner dolphins. The full package (from $5,350) includes an eight-night stay at Kiahuna Plantation Resort.
The resort is located on Poipu Beach, which is a hotspot for humpback whales and monk seals. lucindalaw.co

epicureasia.com 13
 EPICURE NEWS

Li Bai Cantonese Restaurant

Toss to prosperity
The festive yu sheng gets an sumptuous upgrade.

For Japanese-style yu sheng, try Li Bai Cantonese Restaurant’s Salmon

Roe and Hamachi Loh Hei Platter (from $98 for small; $178 for large). The
ingredients are flown in from Japan and served with a colourful spread of
pomelo, sweet potato and pickled ginger. Available for dine-in and takeaway.
Sheraton Towers Singapore, 39 Scotts Road. Tel: 6839 5623

Ellenborough Market Café introduces the Prosperity Smoked Kurobuta Pork

Yu Sheng ($88). The pork is fried to a crisp like bacon; the savoury strips are
then mixed with tender slices of smoked salmon and a tart lemon and plum
sauce. Available for takeaway. Swissôtel Merchant Court Singapore,
20 Merchant Road. Tel: 6239 1847/1848

14 epicureasia.com
Ellenborough Market Café
 Get creative at Escape Restaurant & Lounge’s DIY Yu
Sheng Station, which is one of the highlights of its
Prosperity Feast buffet (available for lunch and dinner,
from $68). The spread will also include Sautéed Roast
Pork and Wealthy Poon Choi (dinner only) among
other savouries. Lobby level, One Farrer Hotel, 1 Farrer
Park Station Road. Tel: 6705 7828

Jade’s Gold Rush Yu Sheng is one of the most

extravagant renditions we have seen this year. On top
Man Fu Yuan of the lavish servings of abalone, lobster and salmon,
it comes with bouncy blobs of champagne jellies. The
latter complements the honey pineapple dressing. It’s
available as part of the Grand Fullerton Golden Feast
($238/person). The Fullerton Hotel Singapore,
1 Fullerton Square. Tel: 6877 8188

Golden Peony's Prosperity Treasure Set ($88),

available as a takeaway, features a Fortune Salmon
and Crispy White Bait Yu Sheng. The tangy starter is
also available as part of their Lunar New Year menu
($118/person; $1,398 for 10 persons). Other yu sheng
options include The Fortune Abalone and Salmon
(from $98) and the luxurious Fu Lu Shou Tri-star of
Lobster, Abalone, and Salmon (from $128). Level 3,
Conrad Centennial Singapore, 2 Temasek Boulevard.
Tel: 6432 7482
Hai Tien Lo
A vibrantly hued combination of purple cabbage,
Seafood lovers will rejoice at Man Fu Yuan’s 60-inch wide Prosperity Yu oranges, mangoes and silver fish makes Madame Fan’s
Sheng ($138, up to 10 guests). It’s teeming with plump scallops from Hokkaido, Prosperity Yu Sheng a must-have. For dine-in, there’s
salmon slices and, for an extra crunch, crispy pork skin. Available for an option to add South African abalone ($68/100g),
takeaway. InterContinental Singapore, 80 Middle Road. Tel: 6825 1008 Boston lobsters ($68/100g) geoduck ($68/100g) or
Kaluga caviar ($170/50g) to add a luxe touch to your
Newly appointed executive chef Ben Zeng of Hai Tien Lo has created a piglet- festive meal. 32 Beach Road. Tel: 6818 1921
style yu sheng platter in a choice of six flavours. The star is the Blossoming
Treasures Yu Sheng, which brims with slices of abalone, suckling pig, black As if the fugu (pufferfish) sashimi – first introduced last
truffles as well as crab meat sticks (from $138). Available for dine-in and year by Si Chuan Dou Hua Top of UOB Plaza - wasn't
takeaway. Level 3, Pan Pacific Singapore, 7 Raffles Boulevard. Tel: 6826 8240 enticing enough, the restaurant has upped the ante
this year. The sashimi (additional $100) is arranged
Min Jiang at One-North’s Fruitful Abundance Yu Sheng with Whole Abalone into an adorable pig shape and goes swimmingly with
comes with a refreshing Raspberry and Sour Plum Sauce (from $118). Expect The Prosperity Silver Bait & Homemade Bakkwa with
yuzu jelly ingots, a variety of tropical fruits and greens to go along with baby Fresh Greens Yusheng ($98). #60-01, UOB Plaza 1,
abalones and tobiko. Available for dine-in. 5 Rochester Park. Tel: 6774 0122 80 Raffles Place. Tel: 6535 6006

epicureasia.com 15
Savour the Executive chef Liu Ching Hai continues to impress his regular guests
with a slew of classic Cantonese dishes at one Michelin-starred Summer

abundance
Palace. Between 25 January and 19 February, diners can come by for
lunch ($88 per person, minimum four to dine) or dinner (from $508 for
four persons). Pair his signature Steamed Soon Hock or Roasted Crispy
Five fine feasts that are worth tucking into. Chicken with the Chinese New Year Wine Special ($78/bottle, $138 for two
and $188 for three). Choose between five Italian varietals, which include a
Indulge in resident chef Martin Foo’s innovative take on Chianti Classico from Felsina Tuscany. Level 3, Regent Singapore,
Chinese cuisine at Crystal Jade Palace Restaurant. Foo not 1 Cuscaden Road. Tel: 6725 3288
only jazzes up the usual noodle dish – a symbol of longevity
– with a Wok-fried Yuzu Noodle with Bacon & Mushroom, For an alternative to formal Cantonese-style sit-down affairs, try Ah Hoi’s
but also offers his take on the traditional char siew with Kitchen, an al fresco restaurant in Hotel Jen Tanglin Singapore. Two
an umami-laden black bean sauce. An extensive range of six-course menus are available for lunch ($8 for two persons) and four
set menus (from $108 to $168/person, minimum two to for dinner (from $288 for six persons) from 15 January to 19 February.
dine), including vegetarian options, is available. #04-19, Highlights include the Seafood Fried Rice with Scallion and Crispy Eggs
Takashimaya Shopping Centre, 391 Orchard Road. and the Chef’s Signature Thai Style Chilli Lobster. Book by 1 February to
Tel: 6735 2388 enjoy an early bird discount of 20 percent for dining in between  and 6
February. 1A Cuscaden Road. Tel: 6738 2222

Shang Palace's festive menu lineup this year includes luxe dishes like
Braised Bird’s Nest Pumpkin Soup with Bamboo Fungus and Winter Melon,
and Braised Three-head Whole Abalone with Liao Sea Cucumber. Choose
between four eight-course sets (from $188/person) or order from the à la
carte selection (from 21 January to 19 February). There’s also a Chinese
New Year dim sum lunch menu (from 28 January to 19 February).
Shangri-La Hotel Singapore, 22 Orange Grove Road. Tel: 6213 4473

Located in the heart of the CBD, Racines makes for a quieter spot for
gatherings during the festive period. Four set menus are available, two
for lunch (from $68 per person, minimum of two) and two for dinner
(from $128/person, minimum two to dine). Seafood lovers will enjoy the
Abundant Fortune Set dinner ($168/person, minimum two to dine) as it
features the decadent Braised Abalone in a Superior Foie Gras Sauce and
Wok-fried King Prawn, drenched in a luscious Salted Egg Yolk Lemon
Butter. Available from 21 January to 22 February. Sofitel Singapore City
Centre, 9 Wallich Street. Tel: 6428 5000

Crystal Jade Palace

16 epicureasia.com

Sofitel Singapore City Centre

 One-stop
dining spot
We’re loving the newly revamped Orchard
Cafe, an all-day dining restaurant that
serves a much wider selection of local
and international treats than before.
Think European cheeses and charcuterie,
a temperature-controlled Seafood Room
and Oyster Shucking station, a Vertical
Salad Bar as well as a Charcoal Grill
station teeming with handsome cuts, such
as the tomahawk steak. For those who
can’t do without carbs, there’s a Noodle
Bar dishing the hotel’s signature seafood
laksa, and freshly baked truffle pizza from
the Pizza Oven. What’s a meal without
dessert? Besides ice cream sandwiches,
Nyonya kuehs and waffles and crepes
made à la minute, the Dessert Showcase’s
most impressive feature is the panning
machine that coats freshly roasted nuts in
a chocolate dust. From $58/person (lunch),
from $78/person (dinner). Orchard Hotel,
442 Orchard Road. Tel: 6739 6565

The perfect host

V-Restaurant is not your ordinary restaurant. Not only is it V-ZUG’s first-ever dining
concept, it's also part of ZUGORAMA, the Swiss brand’s flagship store in Southeast
Asia. The 34-seater restaurant is equipped with V-ZUG’s full range of household
appliances, paving the way for world-class fare at the 4,500 sq ft space in Scotts
Square. Highlights include the the Combi-Steam MSLQ (and the accompanying
vaccum drawer) for the Vacuisine mode, a simplified sous-vide function for infusing
robust flavours while keeping meats tender.
Its position as a showroom also makes it the ideal spot for Four Hands
collaborations with celebrity guest chefs, which will be a regular occurrence every
quarter. Recipes created during these stints will be included in V-ZUG’s portfolio
(easily accessed through the appliances’ touch screen feature). There are also plans
for weekly classes to get customers acquainted with them. #03-11/12/13, Scotts
Square, 6 Scotts Road. Tel: 6926 0878

epicureasia.com 17
 15 Stamford by Alvin Leung

15 Stamford by Alvin Leung

Asian soul food Table Restaurant & Bar

15 Stamford by Alvin Leung is the celebrity chef’s first collaboration with a hotel, and the new 150-seater restaurant takes guests
on a whirlwind tour around Asia. Don’t expect Bo Innovation-like molecular tinkering though. The impeccably designed kitchen,
with a real charcoal fire pit, turns out soulful gems like the chargrilled pork chop ($38) marinated with eight herbal bak kut
teh spices, echoed in the compressed watermelon with angelica syrup, and BBQ sauce imbued with more spices. Another standout
is the luxe Katong-style laksa ($32), which is delectably creamy and topped with tempura prawns and jasmine tea-smoked quail eggs.
Rendang, adobo, eight treasures and chili crab are other iconic dishes that Leung shines the spotlight on; the idea is to preserve the
DNA but change the expectations of these classics. The Capitol Kempinski Hotel Singapore, 15 Stamford Road. Tel: 6715 6871
Turning six years old, Table Restaurant & Bar is revving up its menu with contemporary takes on Indian cuisine, headed
by group Rang Mahal head chef Milind Sovani. While longtime favourites remain, you can now order Martini Pao Bhajee ($16), a
Mumbai tomato-based mash that is quirkily paired with garlic bread. Malvani Fish Curry ($29), a coconut and kokum curry well
loved in south India, features seabass fillets in a light, creamy and tangy sauce that begs for a traditional naan to mop up every last
drop. Not to be missed is the Salted Caramel Chikki Ice Cream ($12) with a brittle mixture of cashews, almonds and caramelised
sugar – a welcomed addition for those looking beyond the traditional gulab jamun and ras malai. G/F, Naumi Hotel, 41 Seah Street.
Tel: 6403 6005

18 epicureasia.com
10 mins with...
BRAD ROBINSON,
chairman and chief executive officer of Ritual Gym

and seeking out new foods and tastes. What are some exciting food or
Singapore is a food lover’s paradise so one flavour projects that Ritual Gym is
never runs out of choices. working on?
We are currently researching special
Do you have a tendency to over- ingredients that impart freshness in foods
analyse the calories of a dish during and how this relates to the nutritional
mealtimes? values of the dish. This inspirational
I usually just try to enjoy food for what it knowledge enables us to create a healthy
is, unless I am going through an intense snack (available at our snack bar) and help
workout training. Then I would probably our customers achieve their desired fitness
start asking myself, is this dish worth level. After all, training is 80 percent and
spending my calorie intake on it? watching what you eat is 20 percent.

Can you share some memorable What’s an under-rated eatery that you
scenes from your recent dining love in Singapore?
experiences? The Gordon Grill at the Goodwood Park
As chairman and CEO of the world’s I was enjoying some beautiful fresh Hotel. Locals tend to overlook it because
leading gym, how does the nature of Japanese crab legs at a hotel buffet in it’s an old hotel restaurant, but to me,
your work influence your appreciation Singapore. They were great and reminded it’s a classic. The steaks are fantastic,
of food? me of a trip to Hokkaido a few years back. and I love the old-school European
I do become more conscious of the food It was a very subtle yet sweet and umami menu. Where else can you find a Baked
I put in my mouth, but that said I still am taste that I can’t get out of my head. It was Alaska these days? The service is always
adventurous in exploring new restaurants simply wonderful. impeccable too.

READING LIST

J Meat-eaters needn’t be apprehensive about J This extensive tome from long-

trying vegan recipes from food writer Amanda time vegan and restaurant owner
Logan’s Great Vegan Meals for the Carnivorous Jean-Christian Jury could otherwise
Family. Whether it's to introduce additional be known as the indispensable guide
vegetables to a diet or transition to a vegan to vegan cooking. The Vegetable
lifestyle, Logan provides an array of ways to Gardener’s Cookbook boasts more
successfully feed families vegan dishes. Tasty than 50 recipes from over 150
breakfast options include eggless French toast, countries, divided into the four seasons
roasted pear parfaits, and chocolate baked oats with blistered berries. – Spring, Summer, Fall and Winter. From crispy orange-
For vegans looking to branch out from more traditional fare, Logan ginger tofu and strawberry mochi to grilled portobello
offers a dairy-free milk and vegan butter béchamel–based lasagna mushroom tostadas, this book has what you need to suit
that includes lentils, red wine, fresh sage. Published by Page Street almost every mood, taste and occasion. Published by
Publishing. Available from amazon.com. $16.94 Quadrille Publishing. Available from Kinokuniya. $52.95

epicureasia.com 19
 G LO B E T R OT T I N G E P I C U R E
Yo u r f o o d i e n e w s a r o u n d t h e w o r l d

Calling Simone
If the stunning Art Deco interiors of SIMONE aren’t enough to make you linger on at the
restaurant, chef-partner Jessica Largey (formerly from three Michelin-starred Manresa)
will impress you with her produce-driven Californian fare. Drawing inspiration from
her childhood in Ventura Country and her career through Providence and Manresa, she
presents south California ingredients in dishes like the Big Fin Squid with chanterelle
mushrooms (US$26/S$36), Oma (a washed rind cheese) with cherry mustard (US$1), and
the crowd favourite, a Dry-Aged Flannery “Jorge” Ribeye with all the trimmings (US$180).
The six-seater chef’s counter, on the other hand, is where diners can indulge in a secret
tasting menu.
PHOTOS SIMONE, ROB STARK

The restaurant, opened in collaboration with filmmaker Joe Russo, has also enlisted
Jordan Egan (NoMad) and Iain McPherson (Panda and Sons) to create the beverage and
bar menu. There’s Lance Bishop (US$15), a blend of dark rum and red wine to represent
the booming Californinan wine industry in the 1800s, and the Botanist Gin-based Kimchi
Gibson (US$18) that’s a tribute to Korean-American visual artist, Po Kim. 449 South Hewitt
Street, Los Angeles, CA 90013, U.S.A. Tel: +1 424 433 3000

20 epicureasia.com
Hot new eats
King’s Social House sets St. Mortiz’ dining scene ablaze with
celebrated British chef and restauranteur, Jason Atherton.
The restaurant, formerly known as King’s Club, sees a
complete redesign by Rosendale Design and features a show-
stopping mural by Swiss street artist duo, Bane + Pest. Grey
pine panels, upcycled from old barns, slate columns and
timber come together to create a luxe take on the farmhouses
that pepper the Engadine countryside. Expect lavish dishes,
from a truffle morel fondue to a roasted lobster with triple-
cooked duck fat chips. As the night goes on, the venue will New in Hackney’s food, drink and design consortium, Mare
transform into a club, with a programme of international DJs Street Market, is The Dining Room, a 5-seater restaurant
and slick drinks. Badrutt’s Palace Hotel, Via Serlas 27, 7500 St. serving up quintessential British fare. There’s a strong emphasis
Moritz, Switzerland. Tel: +41 81 837 10 00 on East London’s homegrown producers and artisans – as with
the rest of the market – which will complement neighbouring
establishment, Open Kitchen. Enjoy Art Deco interiors,
accentuated with antiquities from Pure White Lines, as well as
the seasonal dishes by head chef Dominik Moldenhauer. The
Duck Breast with Chestnut Gnocchi (£13/S$23) and Pastrami
Braised Ox Cheek (£13) have proven popular among guests, but
save room for the Brioche Doughnut. The latter is topped with
salted caramel sauce and a cardamom cheesecake mousse (£5).
Vegetarian and vegan menus are also available. 117 Mare Street,
London E8 4RU, U.K. Tel: +44 20 3745 2470

» 10AM Saunter over to Riga Central Market, an he creates a bevy of elegant tableware, ranging
enormous complex of five zeppelin hangars that’s from bowls to vases. The latest collection, SILK,
filled with Latvian specialities. Opened in 1930, the features a series of subtle silhouettes in matte
24 HOURS IN variety of smoked fish, black bread and birch sap finishes. 24 Antonijas street, Riga, LV-1010,

RIGA juice make for a authentic breakfast. Bring cash.

Negu iela 7, Latgales priekšpilseta, Riga, LV-1050,
Latvia. Tel: +371 27 726 955

» 6PM Settle souvenir shopping at RIIJA. The

Latvia. Tel: +371 67 229 985
design and lifestyle concept store showcases
» 12PM Head chefs Juris Dukalskis and Erisk products from local designers, including
Breibants use only locally and ethically sourced ZIEMELNIEKS’ collection of carpets and pillows
produce and meats to create a stunning menu of handmade using a Northern weaving technique.
Lasma Lidaka, contemporary Latvian fare at Restorans 3. Leave it Terbatas iela 6/8, Centra rajons, Rigas pilseta,
counsellor of economic and to them and opt for the degustation menus. Kaleju LV-1050, Latvia. Tel: +371 67 284 828
iela 3, Centra rajons, Riga, LV-1050, Latvia.
commercial affairs, head of the Tel: +371 26 660 060 » 8PM Head chef Ainars Volodka works closely
with local farmers for his seasonal menu of
representative office in Singapore, » 3PM Alberta Street is a living gallery of the Art Baltic and Latvian cuisine. Set within the
Investment and Development Nouveau-style buildings, particularly by Russian picturesque park and near the Latvian National
architect Mikhail Eisenstein. Other notable figures Opera and Laima Clock, it has one of the best
Agency of Latvia include teacher-and-student duo Konstantins views in the city. Check out their international
Pekšens and Eižens Laube who designed the list of wines. Brivibas bulvaris 26, Centra rajons,
» 8AM Stroll through Vecriga, the historical former apartment that’s been refurbished into Riga, LV-1050, Latvia. Tel: +371 26 608 882
centre of Riga. The UNESCO World Heritage the Riga Art Nouveau Museum. Take note of the
site has over 800 years of history and is ornamental reliefs featuring stylised local flora » 10PM Cap off the night with a glass of
teeming with influences from the many nations and fauna. Central District, Riga. boutique bubbly at Modernists. Expect lesser
that wandered through. Remember to pop by known names such as Emmanuel Brochet and
architectural gems like the House of Blackheads » 5PM Bring home a piece of Riga’ artistic Paul Dethune. Krišjana Barona iela 31, Centra
for a photo opportunity. Central District, Riga, innovation from designer Artis Nimanis at rajons, Riga, LV-1011, Latvia.
LV-1050, Latvia. an&angel. Using crystal, glass and titanium, Tel: +371 67 229 967

epicureasia.com 21
 G LO B E T R OT T I N G E P I C U R E
Indonesia

Surrounded by rice fields

and Mount Agung as the
backdrop, Wapa di Ume
Sidemen presents itself as
a scenic rustic hideaway
like no other. Opt for a stay
at the Di Ume Suite, which
comes with a balcony to
take in the panoramic
views. The five-star resort’s
restaurant, Sleeping Gajah,
offers one of the best
Balinese meals in the area.
Be sure to order the Kuah
Cundang Be Siap (Rp80,000),
a signature consisting of
Balinese basa rajang, a
mixture of finely chopped
spices with chicken, it’s the
perfect heart-warming soup
you need on a soulful misty
evening at the resort. Jl.
Raya Tabola, Banjar Tabola,
Sidemen, Karangasem.
Tel: +62 361 973178

The wait is finally over. After

undergoing five years of redesign
and refurbishment, Hyatt Regency
Bali is now open. Formerly
known as Bali Hyatt, the resort is
considered as one of the earliest
fine examples of Balinese resort
design and landscape. The 363-
room property sits on 500 metres
of white sandy beach and offers
three open-air dining venues, three
swimming pools, a spa, a fitness
centre and a kids club named
Camp Hyatt. The ballroom can
accommodate up to 600 guests for
cocktails, with another four multi-
function meeting rooms for smaller
events. Jl. Danau Tamblingan 89,
Sanur. Tel: +62 361 281234

22 epicureasia.com
 Chef Ragil Imam Wibowo has done
it again. After a successful run
at his Jakarta restaurant, NUSA
Indonesian Gastronomy Jakarta
and winning the Asian Cuisine Chef
of the Year at the World’s Gourmet
Summit 2018, he now helms a new
establishment in Bali. Spicy Geg x
Javara Culture offers a taste of the
the vast Indonesian archipelago
in one sitting. The casual, open-
air restaurant serves regional
Indonesian dishes, such as Mie
Gomak (Rp75,000), Gohu Udang
Jailolo (Rp35,000) and Ikan Bakar
Saus Arsik Tapanuli (Rp80,000).
Guests can also learn more about
the spices used in the dishes at the
adjoining Javara Culture outlet. As
the leading purveyor of biodiversity-
based artisanal food products,
Javara’s presence in Bali is much
welcomed. Kenja Building, Kawasan
ITDC Lot RA 7, Jl. Pantai Mengiat,
Nusa Dua. Tel: +62 361 774210

After the success of After almost a decade

their first restaurant in spent staging at fine
Canggu, Folie Kitchen dining restaurants in
& Patisserie, another two resorts in Bali,
branch has opened in Maurizio Bombini
Beachwalk Shopping has now opened his
Center. Café Folie is own establishment.
led by chef Stephane MAURI offers
Simond, who is known contemporary Italian
for fusing French cuisine with a touch
culinary techniques of tradition that
with Asian flavours. speaks of his Pugliese
Expect classics like the origin. Apart from a
Angel Hair Pasta Aglio 0-seater capacity
e Olio (Rp98,000) as well as new additions, including the savoury and five seats at the
Black Truffle Fried Rice (Rp88,000) with duck confit and poached chef’s counter, MAURI also has a bar and lounge on the mezzanine
egg. Café Folie offers a cosy indoor and outdoor space, both which level. Go for the four-course tasting menu (Rp90,000), which
can accommodate up to 80 persons. Beachwalk Shopping Center includes Tonno in Carpione, Parmigiano Ravioli, Costata di Manzo,
Level 1, Jl. Pantai Kuta, Kuta. Tel: +62 361 8464843 and Tiramisu. Jl. Petitenget 100, Seminyak. Tel: +62 817 776 177

epicureasia.com 23
 Al Nafoura Lebanese
Restaurant is now led by chef
de cuisine, Ahmad Moussa.
A Lebanese by birth, Moussa
has over 10 years of culinary
experience with hotels and
restaurants in the Middle East.
He plans to update the menu of
Jakarta’s favourite restaurant
with the help of modern
cooking techniques and fine
ingredients. Try signature
dishes, such as the Haruf
Ouzi (Rp250,000). The braised
lamb shank served with rice,
assorted nuts and yoghurt is
a favourite among guests. Le
Méridien Jakarta, Jl. Jenderal
Sudirman Kav.18-20, Jakarta.
Tel: +62 21 2513131

Enjoy bespoke gastronomy

at THE DINING STUDIO,
Keraton at The Plaza, a
Luxury Collection Hotel,
Jakarta. Let director of
culinary, Rafael Gil create a
personalised menu based on
your preferences and palate.
The Brazilian native is
passionate about elevating
the dining experience
in Jakarta and creating
different dishes for different
guests, such as the Avocado
King Crab Roll with three
kinds of caviar and Iga
Bakar with Buntut as a nod
to Indonesian cuisine. A
six-course menu is available
for a minimum of six guests
(from Rp1,200,000/person).
Reservation must be made
at least two days in advance.
Jl. MH Thamrin Kav. 15,
Jakarta. Tel: +62 21 50680000

24 epicureasia.com
 We recommend two ways to usher in
the year of the Earth Boar at Mandarin
Oriental, Jakarta. First, toss a plate of yu
sheng for prosperity and good fortune
at the sumptuous Li Feng, the hotel’s
signature Cantonese restaurant. Feast on
the restaurant’s decadent à la carte dishes,
such as the eye-catching Swan Dumpling
with Black Pepper Duck Meat (Rp98,000).
Alternatively, join the Chinese New Year
buffet at Cinnamon on  and 5 February,
where an extensive selection of delicacies
awaits. The celebration comes with a
dragon and lion dance performance on the
eve of the Lunar New Year and a visit from
the God of Prosperity. Jl. MH Thamrin,
Jakarta. Tel: +62 21 29938825

Make your way to the Barong Bar and experience barrel-

aged spirits and cocktails. The bar uses two types of
wooden barrels, American Oak and French Oak, to add to
an interesting cocktail lineup. The drinks menu is divided
into three categories: Apéritif, House Signature and Digestif.
Start with Barrel Aged Gin and Tonic (Rp180,000), continue
on to an American Oak Negroni (Rp200,000) made of gin,
Campari and sweet vermouth that have been aged together
in a single cask, and end the dizzyingly fun evening with
a little Hanky Panky (Rp200,000). You can also create a
bespoke barrel filled with your preferred spirit. Fairmont
Jakarta, Jl. Asia Afrika No.8, Gelora Bung Karno, Jakarta.
Tel: +62 21 29703333

The Chocolate Boutique & Cake Shop

at Hotel Mulia Senayan, Jakarta has
launched an array of festive hampers (price
unavailable) for the Lunar New Year. They
are offering eight variations of crafted
chocolate delights and homemade cookies
in lavish packaging. Alternatively, you
can also call Table8, the Cantonese and
Szechuan specialty restaurant, to place
an order for their sweet and sticky Nian
Gao cake, which will be available from
19 January to 19 February. Jl. Asia Afrika,
Senayan, Jakarta. Tel: +62 21 5747777

epicureasia.com 25
 BEST OF INDONESIA

Plant-
powered
city
Meet three chefs who
are more than happy to
challenge Jakartans to eat
better. By Eve Tedja.

VIEW Restaurant & Bar

Some of the dishes from VIEW

Restaurant & Bar’s first plant-based
tasting menu

O ne can wax poetic about Jakarta’s

skyline from the 22nd floor. The
twinkling lights on the elongated
view, a four-, six- or eight-course tasting
menu made of the richest ingredients
available. If you are willing to try

PHOTOS FAIRMONT JAKARTA, LOKA PADANG AND BURGREENS

bodies of skyscrapers, the blanket of night something different, however, ask the chef
haze and the distant orchestra of car horns de cuisine to share his next plant-based
form the background of a beautiful evening at tasting dinner.
this one particular restaurant and bar. With Hans Christian, the 26-year-old
its elegant coppery tones, VIEW Restaurant & Indonesian chef de cuisine of VIEW
Bar at Fairmont Jakarta is charming to say the Restaurant & Bar, was the man behind
least. A well-lit ample display of wine bottles the city’s first ever 18-course plant-
captures the attention of its guests, nudging based dinner. The special two-night only
them to sit back, relax and enjoy the sommelier’s event was created by Christian and his
recommendations. One quick look at the menu team to showcase the potential of fruits
will tell you that the restaurant is ambitious and vegetables as the heroes on the
in its gourmet offerings. If you come looking plate. “We were not targeting vegans or
for modern European cuisine with an Asian vegetarians. All we wanted to do is to
Hans Christian
influence, order the aptly named chef’s point of challenge ourselves and our guests to

26 epicureasia.com
become more adventurous in their gastronomy pursuits,” says Mandias’ resolution to
Christian who holds a degree in Culinary Nutrition and tenured become a vegan as he
at Next Restaurant, Chicago under chefs Grant Achatz and Jenner was working to recover
Tomaska. his health. “At one
Despite being an omnivore, Christian believes that a plant- point in my life, I was
based diet is not just good for one’s health and well-being overweight, depressed
but also helps to broaden one’s palate. “It teaches you to seek and suffering from some
beyond the common ingredients,” he says. Under his execution, health problems. To
humble plants are transformed. Yeast, tofu, cashew and lime cure myself, I consumed
are turned into a delightful creamy dressing accompanied by raw, plant-based,
crispy mushroom, pesto, balsamic, tomato confit and basil glazed unprocessed food, and
crackers for an exciting crunch. The dish? Mock Cheese. successfully regained
Then, there are rambutan, lanzones, cucumber tree fruit, my physical and mental
watermelon, banana, snakefruit – fruits that most people health. It worked for
consume raw or turn into desserts. Instead, Christian turns them me. I felt great,” recalls
as an integral part of a dish, such as the case with the Savoury Mandias. He then
Fruit Gazpacho, a refreshing palate cleanser made of melon and decided to learn more
Max Mandias and Helga Angelina
black grapes that looks deceivingly like a mushroom soup. Most on how to cook and
of the organic ingredients are locally grown and sourced from a eat better when he lived in Amsterdam. In 2013, he returned to
farm in Serpong and Lembang. Jakarta with his partner, Helga Angelina.
Being raised in Indonesia and tutored on the culinary arts in Living in Jakarta, the couple was faced with limited
the States, taught Christian two different approaches in cooking. dining options catering to their vegan diets. There were the
“I always tried to achieve the balance between drawing the quintessential Indonesian staple dishes like gado-gado or
natural clean flavour of an ingredient and creating flavourful karedok, but they soon grew tired of peanut sauce until they
punch, especially when working with plants,” he explains. decided to open an eatery in Rempoa, a leafy neighbourhood in
Since the first event, VIEW Restaurant & Bar has been receiving southern part of Jakarta. Burgreens started off by serving veggie
inquiries and reservations for plant-based tasting menus. Is this burgers and hotdogs with a mission to offer healthier options
an encouraging sign that the urbane Jakartans are ready to that are as accessible as junk food, the latter which is frequently
embrace an alternative gastronomic experience? Christian seems consumed by Jakartans.
to think so. “To me the greatest reward was to be able to change Fast forward five years later, there are now six Burgreens
people’s perception and open up their minds. Everybody knows outlets in Jakarta. “Whatever unhealthy food you can find
that Wagyu beef is superb, but to surprise them with the tastiness out there, we have created the healthy version,” says Mandias
of cucumber tree fruit? That’s something else entirely,” states jokingly. Browsing through the menu at Burgreens, even
Christian, who will hold his second plant-based tasting dinner omnivores will find themselves tempted by the umami Tempeh
this month. Gomashio or the Pitaya Bliss Bowl smoothies. Seamlessly mixing
Western and Asian cuisine on the menu seems to be Burgreens’
Mock Cheese, Tomato
Confit, Basil Three Ways, Green and secret of success. Surprisingly, more than half of Burgreens’
Balsamic & Umami Purée
flourishing customers are non-vegans who are on their journey to nourish
Nothing will benefit their bodies with good, wholesome food.
human health and increase “It is stressful to live in this city and that is exactly why you
the chances for survival have to be mindful of the food that you choose to nourish your
of life on Earth as much body. To me, that is conscious eating. You have to learn about the
as the evolution to a combination of food that you eat - which one can actually hurt or
vegetarian diet, wrote heal you. Every time you eat means you are given a choice,” says
Albert Einstein in one of Mandias, who is a passionate advocate on veganism as a solution
his letters to a friend. This to the current environmental problems in the world. For him,
quote strengthened Max being vegan is to think about the impact that his food choice is

epicureasia.com 27
 Burgreens’ Mini Quarto Burgers nutritious dishes that go beyond
salads or avocadoes. When Talita
Setyadi introduced her concept of
vegan Padang cuisine at two pop-
up events in the end of last year,
it turned out to be an instant hit.
The succulent, rich-in-coconut-
milk-and-spices cuisine originated
from West Sumatra. Thanks to the
migrant habits of the Padangese,
there is almost no city in Indonesia
where one cannot find a Padang
restaurant. No parts of the cow
is wasted in the making of many
traditional Padang dishes, whether
it’s the bone marrow, cartilage,
tendon, skin, tongue and even
the brain.
A vegetarian herself, Setyadi
who first gained success with her

Burgreens at Pacific Place

creating on the environment and its people. Having said that, he

is not adamant about converting people to a vegeterian diet as
he believes that to include more plant-based ingredients in one’s
meal is already good enough. “I came across this fact recently:
only eight percent of Indonesians consume the right amount of
vegetables and fruits daily. That is very low and unhealthy in the
long run,” shares Mandias, who often can be found passionately
sharing his insights about healthier dining options through talk
shows or workshops around town.

Going back to the roots

As Jakartans are getting more conscious about their health and
Vegan Ramen a la Burgreens
well-being, so too the need to offer them more innovative and

28 epicureasia.com
 Padang cuisine is famous for
its remarkable use of herbs and
spices, making it a comfort food
for many Indonesians.

Talita Setyadi

pastry shop BEAU, figured out

a way to make Padang food
healthier without losing its
signature flavour. She learned
on how to replace offals with
plant-based ingredients.
Taking some existing vegetal
elements, such as potato
frikkadel, cassava leaves, and
jackfruit curry, she updated
the dishes to suit the needs
of vegans while giving
omnivores a healthier option. This approach works because when
one usually says he craves for Padang food, it is the flavour of
rendang or curry that he misses. As this article is being written,
Loka Padang restaurant is at its last stage of preparation for its
opening in Sudirman Park Complex, proving that Jakartans are Potato Rendang a la
increasingly open to making healthy food choices. e Loka Padang

epicureasia.com 29
 LO O K B O O K

The Cabinet of
Curiosities features an
oddball mix of knick-
knacks, which includes
Bowie-printed dinner
plates, old medical
prescriptions and film
cameras.

Curiouser
The interiors plays
on the concept
of new versus old
by juxtaposing

and curiouser
contemporary
furnishings against
the building’s
original silky panels.

The building where Ovolo Inchcolm now stands

used to be the symbol of Queensland’s foray into
specialist medicine. Formerly the doctor’s surgery
of Dr. John Thomson, it now offers a whimsical
blend of antiquity and modernity in Brisbane.
By Jessica Chan

S tanding before the staid façade of Ovolo Inchcolm, you’d

hardly expect the beguiling interiors of floral murals, bold
artworks and Art Deco-inspired terrazzo that’ll make the
eccentric Alice (of Lewis Carroll’s famed novel) feel right at home.
Ironically, its peculiar history as a medical practice for surgeon
and founder of Australia’s St John Ambulance, Dr. John Thomson,
in the twenties, not to mention its location in Wickham Terrace,
Brisbane’s perennial precinct for private medical specialists since
the interwar period, was what inspired this study in contrasts.
Hassell Studio’s design lead Shelley Gabriel, Ovolo Hotels’ art
curator Lisa Fehily and stylist Anna Roberts formed the dream

30 epicureasia.com
 While the restaurant,
Salon de Co, follows
a similar design, it
emulates the convival
vibes of a Parisian
salon.

team that undertook the massive refurbishment of the 50-room

boutique hotel in a short span of nine months (six for concept
design, and three for construction). “Given the interesting
backstory, it was imperative that we brought the property to life
in a way that played on its existing charm and heritage,” explained
Gabriel.
The trio was also mindful not to alter the Hong Kong-based
group’s signature of effortless living in the many lavish furnishings
and modern accoutrements, include Alexa (Amazon’s voice-
activated virtual assistant), throughout the hotel. “We’ve gone
above and beyond to ensure that every detail caters to the guests’
experience,” enthuses Girish Jhunjhnuwala, chief executive officer
of Ovolo Hotels. And, if their other award-winning properties
down south – Ovolo 1888 Darling Harbour and Ovolo Laneways –
have proven anything, it’d be that they’ve gotten the killer design
combination of new versus old down pat.

Famed set decorator Kerrie

Brown was commissioned
to design the many floral
murals, upholsteries and
staff uniforms to complete
the Ovolo Inchcolm’s
otherworldly concept.
The rooms employ
a lighter ambience
while still
interplaying new
and old elements
to intrigue guests.

Through the looking glass

What sets the otherworldly tone of the hotel is none other than
how the seemingly incongruous elements come together to
great results.
The numerous murals, upholsteries as well as staff uniforms
are created in close collaboration with Academy Award-nominated
set decorator Kerrie Brown. Most prominent is the moody
amalgamation of rich florals in her You Crack Me Up design on
the ground floor. It perfectly complements what is, perhaps,
the most outré element of the property, Roberts’ oddball mix of
knick-knacks she had christened “The Cabinet of Curiosities”.
Located in the foyer, it’s primed to give guests an inkling of the
playful approach Ovolo Inchcolm has taken to celebrate the site’s
heritage. Bowie-printed dinner plates, felt Lamingtons, aluminium
flower sculptures and, even old medical prescriptions from local
physicians populate it. Gabriel has also left many of the building’s

epicureasia.com 31
 Each room is
unique, from its
furnishings to the
contemporary
artworks specially
curated by Ovolo
Hotels’ art curator,
Lisa Fehily.

Artists featured
include Jose Romussi
(pictured here).
Towering shelves
of oddities,
such as books,
sculptures and a
singular bowling
pin, can be found
in Salon de Co.

existing components behind. The silky panels aside, nothing

celebrates its history more than the original Otis Elevator that sits
in the heart of the hotel. Shipped in from New York back in 1928,
it’s been restored with a new motor for another generation of
use.
Yet, the rooms stand distinct with a lighter ambience,
dressed in white walls and sporting a cleaner, contemporary look.
High-tech additions, including electric blinds, in-room iPad and
Alexa that’s ever ready to play guests’ favourite tunes on demand
(and more), join Fehily’s curated range of exuberant, avant-
garde artworks. Think modern artists, such as Jose Romussi,
Mr. Brainwash and Neon Pear, plus photography-based oeuvres
from Enrique Rottenberg. “The artworks, both experimental and
aspirational, exude a freedom of expression and artistic passion.
There are pieces that tell it exactly how it is and those from which
guests will take away their own meaning,” says Fehily.
One subtle detail links the rooms to the public spaces; the
aforementioned interplay between new and old. Roberts’ expert
use of bespoke furnishing in bold colours may downplay the
Georgian elements but does not take away from it. Instead, it’s
the lush colour scheme that intrinsically draws guests back to
the darker mood downstairs, which celebrates the building’s
style, albeit with an Ovolo touch. Likewise, the unique floor
plan of each room quietly hints at their former function in the
surgeon’s practice. Room 103 was the waiting and examination
room, while its split-level loft was actually an extension during
its first renovation (date unknown). The latter, surprisingly,
played into the team’s cards, and offers floor-to-ceiling views of
Brisbane’s skyline.
Its restaurant, Salon de Co, is no different. Defined similarly
by dark walls, parquetry floors and towering shelves teeming
with books and oddities, it emulates a Parisian salon that’ll make
even Gertrude Stein proud. The accompanying bar is brimming
with artisan spirits and wines for cocktails that are inspired by
the social and artistic cultures from the twenties, thirties and
forties. The dishes, however, are modern Australian, courtesy
of chef Andy Ashby (who trained under Peter Gilmore and Nelly
Robinson). You’ve got Maremma free-range duck with fennel jam,
Coffin Bay oysters topped with pomelo and yuzu, plus wattleseed
(edible seeds from Australian acacia) in a chocolate lamington
for dessert.
Calling Ovolo Inchcolm intriguing is an understatement. It
beckons travellers to seek respite and, at the same time, guide
them on a different sort of adventure in the city. No longer is it an
otherwise forgotten relic of Brisbane’s history, but an enthralling
destination putting Wickham Terrace on any frequent flyer’s
agenda. e
epicureasia.com 33
 ST YLE BUZZ

Haute
STUFF Women’s timepieces have taken
centre stage at Harry Winston
lately and the bounty is on the
Avenue collection – the American
These iconic models from jeweller’s flagship and bestselling
10 luxury maisons set the trends in line. Combining watchmaking
with the world’s most beautiful
watchmaking. By Celine Yap precious stones, Harry Winston
continually adapts its signature
Avenue case with gems of different
carats, colours and cuts. In the
For an industry that’s been around for hundreds Avenue Classic Aurora, blue and
of years, mechanical watchmaking never really pink sapphires dance alongside
gets old. Thanks to luxury maisons that continually white diamonds, letting the fire and
brilliance of the stones do all the
reinvent the classics and evolve their icons, watch talking. Price upon request.
connoisseurs are treated to ever more inspirational
masterpieces, whether it is a simple three-hand
timekeeper or a rare and exalted high complication.
The secret – they’ll tell you – is to keep on refining
the product, little by little, year after year. That’s
how a wristwatch becomes an eternal object, one
that is as relevant today as when it was created.

Designed to be an aviator’s
timepiece, the Santos de Cartier
is strikingly elegant compared
to the average pilot’s watch.
This timeless icon exists in
several forms, but it’s the latest
incarnation that has captured
both the connoisseur crowd
and the fashion mavens. Sleeker,
slimmer and endowed with
gracious curves, the new Santos
will continue to make waves in
2019, just as it has always done,
since 190. From $8,600

34 epicureasia.com
 The Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris
collection traces its lineage back to
a watch named the Memovox Polaris
which dates back to 1968. Completely
new, the Polaris balances a vintage-
With that unmistakeable crown inspired design with modern touches,
protector, the Luminor is Panerai’s such as applied hour markers and
perennial icon. Yet the manufacture numerals, as well as alternating
has found a way to reinvent this matte and shiny finishes on the
robust sports model, turning it into dial. The Memovox Polaris is one of
an elegant dress watch à la the the untold great stories of Jaeger-
Luminor Due (meaning two in Italian). LeCoultre, often overshadowed by the
Much slimmer than the regular manufacture’s de facto horological
Luminor and utterly contemporary heavyweight, the Reverso. But with
in style, it is just as suitable for men the Polaris collection just launched,
as it is for women. Most impressively, it has clearly returned to the scene as
Panerai has debuted interchangeable a cult favourite, particularly among
quick-change straps in the Luminor aficionados. $11,900
Due line – a feature that will not go
unappreciated by the style savvy.
More variations are underway,
serving to win Panerai new fans in
the years ahead. $17,600

A tribute to an historical
model from 1956 named Ref.
6073, the Vacheron Constantin
FiftySix injects a contemporary
vibe to the 263-year-old
manufacture. This brand new
collection bridges the gap
between seasoned Vacheron
Constantin collectors and
those interested in entering
the Vacheron Constantin
universe. It is the only classic
line offering steel models,
although complications
remain very much
the lifeblood of the
collection. $16,900 (steel)
and $28,200 (rose gold)

epicureasia.com 35
 From time to time, the great house of
Patek Philippe does something almost
counterintuitive, but amazingly, always
to great success and with phenomenal
results. The Calatrava Pilot Travel
Time Ref. 552 was one example, and
so was the 2018 Aquanaut Ref. 5968A
with bright orange dial features and
delivered on a bright orange rubber
strap. Almost uncharacteristically Patek
Philippe, Ref. 5968A breathed new life
to the Aquanaut collection which is too
often overshadowed by the powerhouse
Nautilus line. And when it’s so hopelessly
impossible to score a Nautilus these
days, it’s high time buyers turned to the
Aquanaut instead. $57,700 (steel)

The Omega Seamaster

is a watch that almost
everybody knows,
but the Seamaster
Diver 300m is a
timepiece that is far
less understood. This
contemporary model,
made in 1993, was
the first professional
diving Seamaster as it
comes with a helium
escape valve and is
rated to 300 metres.
The Seamaster Diver
300m has been the
official James Bond
watch since 1995, worn
by Pierce Brosnan
and then by Daniel
Craig. In 2018, Omega
introduced a refreshed
design which received
unanimous praise from
collectors, experts and
retailers alike. From
$6,600

36 epicureasia.com
 Offering Italian design and Swiss
craftsmanship, Bulgari has a
distinctive style of watchmaking
The Blancpain Fifty Fathoms is not found anywhere else in
the world’s original diving watch, the industry. That is how the
having been created in 1953 by manufacture has managed to
the manufacture’s chief executive develop its award-winning Octo
officer at that time, Jean-Jacques collection in so many different
Fiechter, himself an avid scuba ways. From the super-slim
diver. This sporty wristwatch went Octo Finissimo to the classical
through a renaissance of sorts Octo Roma, whether simple or
since Blancpain introduced the complicated, this multi-faceted
Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe in 201, timepiece has truly come into
which was a tribute to a 1950s its own, finding ardent fans
historical model – and it’s been among men as well as women.
on a roll ever since. The most The fount of creativity never
recent pieces that set the buyers stops giving at Bulgari and the
on a frenzy were the Tribute to Octo lines promise many and
Fifty Fathoms MIL-SPEC, and the more surprises for 2019. $18,350
Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe Day- (steel) and $61,100 (rose gold)
Date 70s which means Blancpain
is now firmly back on watch
connoisseurs’ hit-list. $9,200

It was the maison’s top of the line range before, but now Montblanc has
expanded the 1858 collection to include reasonably entry-level pieces
that balance value with quality. Some of the most appealing models here
include the 1858 Geosphere which proffers a unique world time display,
the 1858 Monopusher Chronograph, the 1858 Automatic Chronograph
in bronze, as well as the 1858 Automatic in bi-colour bronze and
steel. Poised to become the next-big-thing in luxury watch collecting,
Montblanc is aggressively offering exceptional products at an attractive
price tag – for now. It won’t be long before prices start heading north, so
if you’re set on a Montblanc watch, best not to dawdle. $7,500 (bronze)

epicureasia.com 37
 TO P TO Q U E

Nature’s
champion
Yoshihiro Narisawa shares his deep love
for the earth and why maintaining
sustainability is mandatory in the world
of gastronomy. By Eve Tedja

PHOTOS NARISAWA

Satoyama Scenery

38 epicureasia.com
 The interior of
Narisawa in Tokyo

O n one of the coldest days of winter, Yoshihiro Narisawa

recalled visiting a snow covered barren field in Nagano
Prefecture. He was accompanied by a farmer who dug
below the snow and showed him the soil where his chemical-free
vegetables were planted. The soil has to be pristine and healthy
tasting menu, paired with the finest Japanese wines and sakes.
For a few hours, they get connected to nature through a parade
of visually stunning dishes, such as Satoyama Scenery and Water
Salad. Almost all the produce are Japanese by origin and crafted
to express their roots, telling a captivating story about the land,
for the vegetables to grow, the farmer told him. “I was wondering history, farmers, fishermen and culture.
how can I convey this sense of purity and nature to my diners,” says Narisawa’s deep respect for the environment, responsibility
Narisawa. This encounter prompted him to create the celebrated toward nature and focus on sustainability are in part why Narisawa
Soil Soup in 2001. It is one of Narisawa’s avant-garde signature currently holds two Michelin stars and is listed at number 22 on the
dishes, where chopped burdock root and soil are fried together, World’s 50 Best Restaurants 2018 list.
brought to a boil and simmered before they are strained. It is a
tribute to terroir and epitomises the concept of his innovative I hear that you are often found foraging across Japan. How does
Satoyama cuisine aptly. that affect your way of cooking?
Yoshihiro Narisawa, who comes from a lineage of chefs, The first step, which I am still practicing today, is to observe the
grew up by the ocean, surrounded by the mountains on the Chita actual place where the ingredients grow.
Peninsula in Aichi Prefecture. Like many other top Japanese chefs, We can discover many things from it. I am able to see what is
he first perfected his skills at venerated European kitchens. Having necessary to do as a professional chef in this field. The ingredients
trained under Paul Bocuse, Joël Robuchon, Frédy Girardet, and Ezio and the environment where they grow are vital and valuable in
Santin, he headed back to Japan at the age of 26. By 2003, he had forming my decision. I visit farms and forage in many parts of
opened Les Créations de Narisawa in Tokyo, which was eventually the country, from Hokkaido to Okinawa. Each region has its own
renamed as Narisawa. He coined his cuisine as innovative Satoyama unique features. Often time when I forage, I find ideas. The idea for
as a way to pay homage to his homeland where the forest, Water Salad was found when I came across a tiny spring beside a
mountain and people coexist in harmony. mountain where wild wasabi, parsley and watercress grew under
Located in the quiet and sophisticated neighbourhood of the nature’s blessing, undisturbed by human’s intervention. I wish
Minami-Aoyama, the restaurant is minimalist in decor and almost that the future generation would be able to experience this tiny
monochrome in colour. Guests are treated to a seasonal 15-course piece of natural perfection.

epicureasia.com 39
 Tsubaki & Koji Soil Soup
chefs are required to think carefully of
the impact and the contribution that
they are making. The thing about nature
is that everything is connected, from
the soil to the dish that we serve to our
guest. What happens in the forest will
end up in the ocean. When we maintain
our Satoyama and produce, it will directly
influence the condition of seafood that
we eat. It is our duty to not only focus on
one type of ingredient because we forget
that there are limits to this resource. The
environmental issues are fully related to
food and the choices we make as chefs.
Therefore, we are obliged to be mindful on
what we create. We are always aware of
these aspects at Narisawa.

How massive is the change that you

face compared to when you started off
as a chef?
Until about 30 years ago, we could find
ingredients easily, especially in the
developed countries. Chefs only needed
Sumi Water Salad to have basic techniques, knowledge and
plating styles, and they would be able to
You must come across new ingredients quite often. What was present their dishes suitably. Now, abalone and lobster are getting
your last interesting find? harder to find as our ocean gets warmer and climate changes. For
There are so many ingredients that people do not eat today but centuries, we have tamed nature through farming, but there are
used to consume in the past. The ingredient itself is not new, but many aspects that we can’t control, things that grow in the wild
the knowledge on how we can use it is often forgotten and this and are currently threatened because we take them for granted or
threatens its existence. I’d make it relevant to the current dining destroy them all together.
lanscape with my style of cooking and, hopefully, inspire fellow We are facing massive environmental changes, scarcity and
chefs and gourmets. That is my mission. even extinction of some species. This happens globally, not just in
One example is a dish that I created for a recent collaboration Japan. I strongly believe that this is the moment for us to take the
at Il Ristorante – Luca Fantin at Bvlgari Resort Bali. It is called big steps and move forward together.
Spiedo d’ anatra marinata alla soia cotto al carbone, where I use
kuromoji (Lindera umbellata) stick to attach the duck meatloaf. In Is there a way to prevent this environmental catastrophe?
the past, kuromuji was used as toothpicks for its fragrant aroma. Go back to the roots, the origin of your culture. Seek the elders,
the indigenous tribes and learn from them. Humans have always
As the first winner of the Sustainable Restaurant Award at The been very close with nature and we used to respect it so much
World’s 50 Best Restaurants in 2013, Narisawa has plenty of more in the past when we didn’t have electricity and gas. Other
lessons to share with the rest of the gastronomy world. What are than that, talk to your farmers. Show them your appreciation
your challenges? because they are the one who are having the toughest time.
The most important lesson is to realise that as chefs we have to Often, I tell the farmers whom we work with on how we cook
acknowledge that we have limited resources and ingredients. their produce and how our guests are appreciating them. This will
Our environment is turning for the worse. With this fact in mind, motivate them. The key is appreciation. e
40 epicureasia.com
Johor Bahru dining
guide
Merk Group: This
homegrown F&B group is
epicure x OCBC the creative muscle behind
Cards brings you the some of the most innovative
best of dining in Singapore’s dining concepts in Johor
neighbour across the straits,
Johor Bahru. Check out the FACULTY OF CAFFEINE
F.O.C for those in the know started off as a cosy brunch
finale of this three-part guide, spot, evolving into a modern diner that takes a gleeful

or download the whole issue at hopscotch through cultural influences. The tight menu
doesn’t make it easy to choose between crispy chicken
epicure.com/ocbcjb. confit with mushroom gravy, and an unagi and mixed
tempura topped donburi. The sambal fried chicken is an
Check out the movers and shakers appropriate snack in between meals, as is Madam Lim’s
What’s new and happening in Johor? Bring your OCBC Credit/Debit Card Brownies – made with love by the owner’s mom.
to score the best savings as you check out the latest concepts over the
Causeway. Here are 10 you can’t miss. OCBC CARDMEMBERS EXCLUSIVE:
10% OFF TOTAL BILL
106 Jalan Trus 80000 Johor Bahru Tel: +60 12 547 7885

THE REPLACEMENT LODGE & KITCHEN

Known for their perennial brunch menu that’s served till 6pm, The
Replacement’s Eggs Benny and Croque Madame will never go out of style. But
it’s the creative menu that keeps us coming back, whether it’s to try the churros
with salted egg yolk dip, unagi bao or crab meat mentaiko aglio olio with
smoked duck. You’ll also find Melbourne-inspired hand brews and specialty teas
like Cascara coffee cherry fruit tea from Bolivia.

OCBC CARDMEMBERS EXCLUSIVE:

10% OFF TOTAL BILL
33-34 Jalan Dhoby, 80000 Johor Bahru Tel: +60 12 547 7885
 SHAKESPEARE
MILKSHAKES
Shake off your thirst at this pitstop
for all things sweet and savoury.
Crêpes, waffles and milkshakes
are the Instagram order of the
day especially when topped with
Pocky sticks and Kinder Bueno.
Fancy some croffles and sweet
potato fries? A croffle is a perfect
marriage between a croissant
and a waffle, while the fries are
topped with marshmallows, sour
TROPIQUE CAFÉ & RESTAURANT cream and truffle oil.
The Merk Group has upped its stakes by going full-tilt
into contemporary modern dining with a 120-seater OCBC CARDMEMBERS
restaurant. Tropique Café & Restaurant whisks you out EXCLUSIVE:
of Malaysia with its mod-French decor wrought around 10% OFF TOTAL BILL
9 Jalan Trus, 80000 Johor Bahru
marble and wood accents. Casual in the day, the menu
Tel: +60 16 421 8530
turns serious at night, with sashimi crudo, foie gras
chicken breast and a curated cocktail and wine list.

OCBC CARDMEMBERS EXCLUSIVE:

10% OFF TOTAL FOOD BILL
Lot D Jalan Ekoflora 1 Taman Ekoflora 81100 Johor Bahru
Tel: +60 12 547 7886
With the OCBC 365 Credit Card,
receive 6% cashback for both local
and overseas dining, everyday.
Spend at bars, pubs, hotels and country clubs will not qualify for the 6% dining
cashback. Cashback capped at S$80 per month with a minimum monthly spend of
S$800. Terms and conditions apply. For details on dining cashback,
please refer to ocbc.com.sg/365card

Amari Johor Bahru: The

first Amari in Malaysia is a 5-star
addition with 242 guest rooms,
adjoining Zenith Lifestyle Centre.

AMAYA FOOD GALLERY

Given the hotel’s Thai origins, the 26-seater Amaya Food Gallery is beautifully
decorated with a Thai-Peranakan nod. Explore the rhythm, colours and tastes of
Southeast Asia through the live cooking stations that transform into a market-
style street at dinner. Executive sous chef Kanokwan Pungjaroenkijkul (Gina) will
have you coming back for more of her Thai green curry, phad Thai with seafood,
and spicy stir-fried chicken.

OCBC CARDMEMBERS EXCLUSIVE:

20% OFF À LA CARTE FOOD BILL AND WEEKEND BUFFET
Amari Hotel Johor Bahru No. 82C Jalan Trus, 80000 Johor Bahru Tel: +60 7 266 8888
GUOMA STEAMBOAT KEITO
First housed in a shophouse in 2012, Guoma Beautifully plated bowls and plates of
has continued to win over bellies with their ramen to sashimi, are top of the mind.
comforting Taiwanese-style hotpot cuisine. Minimalist in light blond wood colours,
You have a choice of two soup bases and the restaurant offers a large bar,
an unlimited serving of prawns, fishballs, MACGREGOR’S private tatami-style dining rooms and
meats, noodles and braised meat rice. The A fine Irish pub awaits just five minutes across a no pork, no lard policy. Customers
self-service extends to the sauce station too, the Causeway. Whether you love live sports rave about the finely grilled robatayaki
where you’re recommended to crack an egg screening, live music, a wide choice of beers skewers as well as the chef’s special
yolk into the nutty and appetising Special and whiskies, fine feasts or all of the above, chilli sauce that accompanies the
Guoma Sauce. MacGregor’s aims to please. Its all-day menu ramen bowls.
ranges from Irish oysters and chicken wings,
OCBC CARDMEMBERS EXCLUSIVE: to the famous mussels in a pot, beer-battered OCBC CARDMEMBERS EXCLUSIVE:
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02-05,06,07 Zenith Lifestyle Centre, 82C Jalan Trus, Classic Lamb Shank. You’ll be rocking away in G-03B Zenith Lifestyle Centre, 82C Jalan Trus,
80000 Johor Bahru Tel: +60 10 653 6868 good company. 80000 Johor Bahru Tel: +60 11 1146 9812

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G-06 Zenith Lifestyle Centre, 82C Jalan Trus, 80000
Johor Bahru Tel: +60 7 277 6818

Zenith Lifestyle Centre:

Its handy location
and top-notch
selection of dining and NEW ZEALAND UNLIMITED
entertainment options At this brand’s second outlet, expect
place this newest mall the same great New Zealand oysters,
ahead of the pack king salmon, green-lipped mussels,
grass-fed ribeye, lamb leg and more
GOGIROU BBQ MEAT STREET that boast the fresh, pure flavours of
Inspired by the “meat street” or BBQ area of Ilsan town, this trendy Korean restaurant is Johor Kiwi-land. They also handpick 70 wines
Bahru’s favourite BBQ meat specialist. Indoor round tables are equipped with round grills and from 19 vineyards, along with boutique
overhead exhausts, while you grill up juicy beef, chicken and pork at the table. Look out for other whiskies, beers and spirits.
favourite dishes, such as japchae and the signature Jurassic beef ribs.
OCBC CARDMEMBERS EXCLUSIVE:
OCBC CARDMEMBERS EXCLUSIVE: 10% OFF TOTAL BILL
10% OFF À LA CARTE FOOD BILL 01-03A Zenith Lifestyle Centre, 82C Jalan
G-05 Zenith Lifestyle Centre, 82C Jalan Trus, 80000 Johor Bahru Tel: +60 7 268 9771 Trus 80000 Johor Bahru Tel: +60 7 505 0768
 S E E N & S AVO U R E D

A pop-up
celebration
The inaugural Christmas Pop-up by
Palais Renaissance and epicure featured
12 booths selling blueberry wines,
bespokes chocolates, customised
jewellery as well as a series of well-
subscribed masterclasses.

M ichael Bublé’s Christmas tunes lulled

shoppers and epicure readers in a jolly
mood as they descended upon Palais
Renaissance from 7 to 8 December for the debut of its
Christmas pop-up. Held at the basement of the mall,
12 vendors were there to showcase their unique
products - just in time for Christmas gifting.
Tasting portions of blueberry wine (with notes
of baked pomegranates, cranberries, blueberries,
cinnamon and clove) from Vintas, a Jerusalem Valley
Noah Estate 2011 Merlot from Israel Wines, and
Portugal wines brought in by Alentasia were handed
out to shoppers while they checked out the gorgeous
personalised cuffs and rings from SOAMI. Those looking
for foodie gifts sought out the wholesome honey from
Cerana Honey, lip-smacking festive goodies from
Hotel Jen Tanglin, fragrant English Breakfast Tea from
Tea Story and artisanal chocolates from DemoChoco.
Adding on to the Christmas atmosphere, Palais
Renaissance tenants, such as Frunatic, Ishinomaki Grill
& Sake, Prive Aesthetics and Valen Fleur joined in the
fun as well.
Early birds who signed up for epicure's
complimentary masterclasses learned the 101s of tea
and honey. Sommelier Indra Kumar gave a tutorial
PHOTO BENJAMIN NG JIAN ZHONG

on Israel wines, while Arial Goh held court with a

watercolours illustration demonstration. Another
popular masterclass was the whiskey (courtesy of
Rémy Cointreau) and DemoChoco chocolate pairing. In
the spirit of giving, $100 worth of Palais Renaissance
shopping vouchers, a Whiskey Brunch for two at Hotel
Jen Tanglin and wine glasses from Schott Zwiesel were
given out during the lucky draw.e
44 epicureasia.com
epicureasia.com 45
SPECIAL FEATURE

Coming full circle

Yardbird Southern Table & Bar returns to its classic American roots with a rousing
relaunch party and a new Great American Brunch menu at its Marina Bay Sands outpost.

Nothing says classic American flavours like Yardbird

Southern Table & Bar, and John Kunkel, founder of 50
Eggs Inc, the restaurant group behind it, was sure to
make that known at its relaunch party on 6 December.
At its Marina Bay Sands outpost, the festivities not only
marked the return of its original name – just like its
sister restaurants in Miami, Las Vegas and Los Angeles
– but also introduced the who’s who of Singapore’s
social scene to the restaurant’s lavish American spread.
Close to 300 guests attended, as well as 50 Eggs
Inc’s corporate executive chef Patrick Rebholz and
corporate executive pastry chef Hedy Goldsmith who
flew in from Miami. Celebrity emcee Roz Pho hosted
the party as actresses Constance Lau and Janice Koh of
Crazy Rich Asians fame joined the high-energy soirée
alongside Class 95FM DJ Yasminne Cheng, actor Jason
Godfrey and musician Benjamin Kheng, just to name
a few.
Esteemed guests were welcomed with signature
cocktails, including the invigorating Blackberry
Bourbon Lemonade and Southern Revival, as
well as a succession of canapés, such as their
Chicken”N”Waffles, mini Deviled Eggs and Fried Green
Tomato & Crispy Pork Belly. There was a preview
of Yardbird’s new menu when head chef Leonard
Delgado and Rebholz got behind the kitchen for a
sizzling demonstration of their Lobster Mac & Cheese.
When not indulging in the seemingly endless buffet
of oysters, salmon sashimi and caviar, guests could
be seen snapping shots of Goldsmith’s classic treat of
Coconut Layer Cake and vibrant doughnut trees. The
latter is available during the weekends as part of their
Great American Brunch, along with her colourful stack
of Funfetti Pancakes.
Four guests got to try their hand at making
said cocktails up on level one, while a DJ ignited the
party with modern rock tunes. The highlight, without
question, was when one guest took home $400 worth
of shopping vouchers from The Shoppes at Marina
Bay Sands for guessing the number of whiskey labels
available at the restaurant. As if the night wasn’t
memorable enough, guests got to bring home goodie
bags filled with items, such as Yardbird Southern Table
& Bar’s fiery honey hot sauce.
SPECIAL FEATURE
SPECIAL FEATURE

The celebration continued into the weekend

with a Great American Brunch Party on 8 December,
attended by regional media, influencers and adorable
dogs of Instagram. Guests, including Dr. Jade Kua
and fashion boutique owner Samantha Chan,
enjoyed delightful creations by Goldsmith, such as
the fluffy, mile-high Funfetti Pancakes and doughnut
trees, as well as a medley of brunch favourites, like
the Chicken & Egg Biscuit Sandwich. The party also
unveiled a refreshed alfresco seating on the bay
level overlooking the scenic Marina Bay waterfront
promenade. Little ones decorated their own
gingerbread men and Christmas baubles, while furry
friends spent a lovely afternoon basking in the sun.

http://www.marinabaysands.com/restaurants/american/
yardbird-southern-table-and-bar.html
The Gu Zhu Zi Sun
tea plant growing on
the mountain slopes

50 epicureasia.com
 U p in the misty mountainous regions of China,
deep in the natural forests, located at high
altitudes of 1,000 meters or more above sea
level, is where one will find some of the best and most
exclusive wild tea plants. These precious plants are
plants and have the capability of absorbing
more nutrients from the fertile forest soil,
living in symbiotic harmony with adjacent
wild plants, many of which have medicinal
value. This diverse forest environment
exposed to abundant sunlight, a sufficient amount of rain, produces more complex aromas and
and extreme temperature differences between day and flavours in wild tea,” says Sun.
night, which are deemed favourable, shares Annie Sun, One such region is the Anhua
group chief executive officer of Dynaforce International. County in central China where the world
Sun is also the founder of Hui Rui Tang – a nascent and famous Dark Tea (a class of tea that has
bespoke tea boutique specialising in health enhancing undergone microbial fermentation, from
teas from the wild forests and mountains of China. several months to many years) reigns.
Cacao pods growing “Unlike plantation tea, wild tea does not depend on The fermentation of tea leaves alters their
well in a farm in Calinan,
Davao, Philippines
chemicals, pesticides or fertilisers. They are deep-rooted chemistry, affecting the smell of the tea
and typically mellowing its taste, reducing
astringency and bitterness while improving
mouth feel and aftertaste. Besides aiding
digestion and relieving fatigue, wild
Anhui Dark Tea also contains vitamins,
minerals and amino acids that contribute
to improving overall wellness. Unlike green
tea, which may lose its flavour within a
year, fermented dark tea can retain its
flavour for many years. This is the reason
why fermented dark tea has long been
used as a “currency” for barter trade in the
Silk Route in the 19th century.
A sip of this prized Anhui Dark Tea will
reveal a marvellously mellow and mildly
Hong Spices farm at Sunrise. smokey flavour that lingers on the palate.
Peppercorns vines shaded
with coconut leafs on the left. A second or third cup and the exquisite
Mango orchards on the right.
nuances unfurl, and you may experience

More than
a gentle warmth spreading through your

just a sip
body as the goodness of wild tea works its
magic to soothe your soul.

What do wellness-focused consumers want in their cuppa? Xie Huiqun

discovers rare mountain teas and brews made from cacao beans and
pepper vines that will rejuvenate even the most jaded palates.

epicureasia.com 51
 Wild Green Tea from
Gu Zhu Mountain
- Gu Zhu Zi Sun
(Purple Bamboo)

Wild Red Tea

from Wu Yi
Mountain Tong
Mu Guan - Hong
Xiu Tian Xiang

Wild Anhua
Dark Tea
shaped
into cubes Wild Yan Cha
(Cliff Tea) from
Wu Yi Mountain -
Bai Ji Guan

Green
Tea from
Suzhou Xi
Shan - Bi
Luo Chun
Tea Pick for
prying tea from
compressed tea
bricks.

52 epicureasia.com
 “ It is hard and, at
times, dangerous
work, so even with
higher wages, the
younger generations
are not interested to
take it on. This leaves
the older pickers
(mainly in their 60s
to 80s) to do this
work. However, even
with the high labour
costs and limited
supply, the wild teas
produced and picked
from the high-altitude
locations are worth
the added expense
for the enjoyment
Annie Sun, group chief
executive officer of Dynaforce and health of the tea
connoisseur.”
International and founder of
Hui Rui Tang

A Gift from Mother Nature

“High altitude teas are typically more rich, smooth and fragrant, and sleep. One also needs proper nutrition, she expresses. She has
and you can brew them many more times before they lose their embarked on this tea journey and business to create her own brand
PHOTOGRAPHY XIN, CALIBRE PICTURES ART DIRECTION DARRYL PESTANA

flavour, but they grow freely among all kinds of other vegetation of wild tea (a retail outlet is also in the works) targeted initially at
and are also usually difficult to reach,” says Sun, who honed her the spa industry and also tea lovers in general (with private tea
appreciation of tea from her mother, a tea connoisseur. Sun tells sessions and events).
us that wild tea farmers often need to hire tea pickers, who are At present, there is still a lack of appreciation of the benefits of
paid by the weight of the tea picked each day. They have to go up drinking high quality Chinese tea, especially wild tea. As such, Sun
into the mountains and deep into the forests to pick the tea each would like to work on “educating the market on the health benefits
morning and return to the collection centre in the late afternoon. and the fine art of enjoying quality Chinese tea”. All her teas, which
“It is hard and, at times, dangerous work, so even with higher include a variety of red tea, cliff tea and more, will be from the wild,
wages, the younger generations are not interested to take it on. sourced from all over China, and supply will be seasonal
This leaves the older pickers (mainly in their 60s to 80s) to do this and limited.
work. However, even with the high labour costs and limited supply,
the wild teas produced and picked from the high-altitude locations
are worth the added expense for the enjoyment and health of the
For more information on private tasting sessions, contact:
tea connoisseur,” Sun adds. Email: [email protected]
Sun, who is currently in the wellness business, feels that Tel: 6842 3166
physical wellness is not just confined to proper exercise, relaxation

epicureasia.com 53
 much as chocolate as possible. Of course, it is not as
chocolatey as cocoa, but it is all natural and sugar-
free,” says Penafort.
The company started out as a specialist in
manufacturing quality chocolates with a focus on
travel retail and local consumers. Along the way, they
learned about the hardships faced by Asian farmers
and also about a more natural and sustainable way
to make chocolate, which sparked a new direction
for the company.
“A big part of our company’s philosophy now is
education: telling the untold story of chocolate. As
such, we are looking at small batch production from
each single origin plantation. Our general manager,
Wilfred Ng, does most of the travelling out to remote
farms in the region to source for cacao,” he shares.
As of today, they have partnered with farmers
in Sungai Ruan (Malaysia), Vung Tau (Vietnam),
Anaimalai Hills (India), Calinan (Philippines) and
Lampang (Thailand), and they buy the cacao beans
directly. Their single estate chocolates and cacao tea
are all 100 percent natural, vegan, halal, gluten-free,
dairy-free and nut-free. Penafort explains that going
direct is more sustainable for farmers as they are
Jerome Penafort, director of business
development for Benns Chocolate able pay the farmers up to three times higher than
market price by leaving the middle men out of
the equation.
The Sweet Spot Pursuing their intent to study the antioxidant levels and health
Until some 200 years ago, cacao was consumed as a drink, benefits of their cacao tea, Benns Chocolate has collaborated with
says Jerome Penafort, director of business development for UCSI University in Malaysia, and research has shown that both the
Benns Chocolate. Vung Tau (Vietnam) and Sungai Ruan (Malaysia) origin cacao teas
“When you are feeling stressed or sad, you feel good after have higher antioxidant levels than most regular teas, coffees and
eating chocolate as there are compounds in there that boost fruits. The Vung Tau Cacao Tea from Vietnam, for example, has
your levels of endorphins andserotonin. The same compounds are close to three times the amount of antioxidants as apples and about
in our tea; it is a “feel-good” tea that can help you relax,” Penafort 60 percent more antioxidants than strawberries.
explains. “When blending the cacao tea, we are mindful of three things:
For Benns Chocolate, cacao tea (not to be confused with cocoa) flavour, antioxidant level, and aroma. The husk adds a lot of flavours
is still a relatively new product; it was soft-launched at Food & to the tea, and has malt properties that give the tea a nice body and
Hotel Asia in April 2018. Their cacao tea is made of raw cacao nibs aroma, while the nibs give us the antioxidants. It took us some time
and husk — cacao nibs are the inner fruit of the cacao bean, the key to find the balance, coming up with the right ratio of husk to nibs
raw ingredient used to make chocolate. When you brew it, you will and to achieve the maximum antioxidant count,” says Penafort.
see that it is slightly oily, but that is all natural. The cacao tea has
a sweet perfume and a pleasant, mild taste of chocolate without
For more information, visit www.bennschocolate.com
the sugar. The cacao tea is also available at Cedele outlets, Naiise, Teapasar,
“Drawing from this history, we wanted to create something City of Tomorrow, and Bearded Bella.
that could retain all the superfood nutrients and still tastes as

54 epicureasia.com
 “ When you are feeling stressed or sad, you
feel good after eating chocolate as there are
compounds in there that boost your levels
of endorphins and serotonin. The same
compounds are in our tea; it is a “feel-good”
tea that can help you relax”

Cacao nibs

epicureasia.com 55
 Large
Lesong
pestle and
mortar

Dried
peppercorns
and pepper
flowers

Fresh
peppercorns

56 epicureasia.com
 “The idea of pepper
tea occurred to us
when a customer
mentioned that
peppers are widely
used in Asia together
with traditional herbal
medicine (Chinese
TCM and Ayurvedic
medicine for example)
as the oils from the
pepper help with the
absorption of nutrients
from the herbs”
Lai Poon Piau, founder
of Hong Spices

Spice of Life
Love pungent peppery flavours? Then this naturally spicy and only the best berries are selected for use in the pepper tea.
tea could be just the drink for you. During harvest season (around June every year), the berries are
“The idea of pepper tea occurred to us when a customer allowed to fully develop on the vine so they have the fullest flavour.
mentioned that peppers are widely used in Asia together with The berries are then harvested, sorted, processed and dried to
traditional herbal medicine (Chinese TCM and Ayurvedic create what is considered to be one of the best peppers in the
medicine for example) as the oils from the pepper help with the world. As harvest is dictated by nature, supply can be limited.
absorption of nutrients from the herbs,” says Lai Poon Piau, To produce this deliciously spicy pepper tea, dried peppers are
founder of Hong Spices. ground with other dried pepper aromatics (pepper spikes, pepper
When Lai opened Hong Spice’s Kampot Pepper farm in 2013, flowers, etc) from the vine. Some organic palm sugar is added to
it was with the primary aim to reestablish sustainable economic complement the pepper aroma. Add some hot water (not boiling
agriculture in the Kampot region through local employment, hot) and the result is a an aromatic, pleasant tea that tastes sweet-
bioresearch, and environmental conservation efforts. Kampot sour for a brief moment before the spiciness comes into play,
and the surrounding area were awarded Protected Geographical tingling your taste buds and stimulating blood circulation.
Indication status in 2010, and this helped boost the growth of the Lai is currently looking for a suitable vendor to manufacture
local pepper industry. and pack the pepper tea into retail packs; the packing of tea into
When it comes to farming, Lai believes in an “organic approach sachets is still, at the moment, done by hand. e
employing bio-nutrients and micro-organism techniques to
maintain soil health and provide effective pest control without the
For more information, visit https://hongspices.com
need for any harmful chemical pesticides”. Hong Spices products and Lesong mini Wooden Pestle are also available
On his farm, Lau allows nature to take its course. Pepper vines at http://handpicked.sg/
need to be three years old before the peppercorns are harvested

epicureasia.com 57
 S.S. Maria Theresa

The best voyage

of your life
Explore Europe’s incredible beauty, history and gastronomy
with Uniworld Boutique River Cruise Collection.

S.S. Maria Theresa

Presidential Suite S.S. Maria Theresa lobby

Uniworld Boutique River Cruise Collection takes you to some Each ship is designed to reflect the region it cruises through
of the most enviable locations in the world to celebrate and is complemented with superb food, service and
important moments in style. Awarded 2018’s Cruise Critic accommodations. Plus, you can enjoy gourmet dining with
Award for “Best European River Cruise Line” and the #1 River unlimited beverages, including cocktails and regional beer
Cruise Line in Travel + Leisure’s 2018 World’s Best Award, and wine.
its floating hotel concept brings guests on an all-inclusive, Whether you are celebrating an anniversary or renewing
picturesque tour across some of the most historic of rivers in your vows, the romantic Castles Along the Rhine, an 8-day
Europe, of which includes the magnificent Danube and storied itinerary, should be high on your list. Imagine waking up to
Rhine, with unsurpassed luxury and culinary excellence. the mesmerising riverscape of Alsace while onboard the
Billed as “the world’s only authentic boutique cruise line”, S.S. Antoinette, before making your way to many dining
Imagine an effortlessly luxurious holiday onboard a floating establishments on the ship; the full-service Bar du Leopard,
boutique hotel where you only have to pack once. The ship is the chic l’Orangerie Sky Lounge and Restaurant de Versailles.
a destination in itself with palatial interiors and lush amenities, The latter is where couples can indulge in a culinary sojourn of
such as Savoir of England beds and marble bathrooms. the region, thanks to locally-sourced produce and the region’s
 SPECIAL FEATURE

S.S. Antoinette

famed white wines. Land tours continue in the same vein at

various ports, including Rüdesheim’s Dorosselgasse that’s
filled with quaint shops and wine bars and a tour of the capital
of Alsatian wines, Colmar.
Enchanting Danube is an 8-day beguiling journey that
visits four captivating countries on the S.S. Maria Theresa:
Hungary, Slovakia, Austria and Germany. The trip is ideal
for first-time river cruisers as well as seasoned travellers
seeking to experience yet another dimension of these beloved
destinations. Take a panormaic guided tour of Budapest,
sample the Budapest that locals love with a “Do as the Locals
Do” walking tour or, for active adventurers, discover the city’s
beautiful parks and gardens via bicycle with an expert local
guide. In Vienna, enjoy VIP access to the famed Kunstkammer
with a private early-morning viewing of its acclaimed art
collection. Another highlight is Durnstein, which features a
visit to a saffron workshop in Wachau Valley or Austria’s oldest
winery, Nikolaihof wine esate. On board, guests can enjoy
complimentary wines and original cocktails as they sample the
classic Wiener Schnitzel and Bavarian sausages, either at their
restaurants or courtesy of their in-suite butler service. It’s the
ideal fuel before a scenic hike along the Ilz River as the trip
reaches its conclusion at Passau.
Best of all, for a truly special event, Uniworld’s hotel
managers can tailor the ship’s many activities and offshore
excursions to suit your needs.

For more information, visit www.uniworld.com/asia

Or, contact a Uniworld travel specialist at +65 9292 2936 or
S.S. Antoinette lobby
email [email protected]
 V I N E E X P E C TAT I O N S

The
conscious
winemaker
A personal conviction to tread lightly on
the earth drives Johannes Gebeshuber from
Weingut Gebeshuber's mission to restore the
glorious quality of Zierflander and Rotgipfler
from Gumpoldskirchen, Austria. By June Lee

60 epicureasia.com
 F or biodynamic wines, we have Austrian metaphysical theorist
Rudolf Steiner to thank, who devised the Demeter biodynamic
concept according to his doctrine of ‘anthroposophy’ in the
1920s. The holistic concept of biodynamic farming focuses on the
farm and soils as living, self-sustaining organisms to be cultivated
transferred from human to plant and back,” Johannes elaborates,
noting that the effects are visible in the abundance of insects, hares
and falcons that are attracted to his vineyards. What convinced him
to farm biodynamically is the closed cycle of land cultivation that
resembles the natural circulatory system, rather than the more
naturally without any need for synthetic intervention. ethereal ‘vibrations’ or new age practices associated with it. He does
On my seminal visit to Vienna for the 20th anniversary of wine concede, however, that there are certain rhythms to wine where it
fair VieVinum in 2018, I found that Austrian winemakers young and can taste full-bodied one day and leaner the next, that are perhaps
old were resonating with the century-old writings of Steiner with attributable to natural phases. In biodynamic practices, moon
good reason – they are truly attached to their pristine lands and the cycles are thought to be influential; for instance the period before a
traditional, closed loop method of farming which continues to make full moon increases the moisture in soil, making it ideal for
so much sense today. planting seeds.
One of these meetings happened almost
by chance while I was on an excursion to the
village of Gumpoldskirchen for a vertical tasting
of Zierflander, an autochthonous grape that once
brought fame to the region but was now reduced
to just 77 hectares under vine in all of Austria.
The trip from Vienna to the Thermenregion
led me to the quietly charismatic founder and
winemaker Johannes Gebeshuber.

Disciplined disciple
A few months after, I meet Johannes in
Singapore, where he’s supporting the annual
Austrian Wine Festival organised by Leopold’s
bar and vinothek. Celebrating his 50th birthday,
Johannes easily looks 10 years younger, thanks
to his athletic background and vegetarian diet for
the past 30 years. A persistent stomach problem
at 20 led him to quit eating meat and stop
smoking, while he turned his interest to Chinese
philosophy and other teachings.
Johannes spent the first part of his career in
marketing, which opened his eyes to Burgundian
wines. A few “trials and errors” as well as courses
in winemaking later, Weingut Gebeshuber was
PHOTOS STEVE HAIDER AND EILAND WIEN

born in 1998. Initially, he adopted a ‘cautious’

approach, observing and experimenting with
organic methods that became formalised in 2006,
and then fully biodynamic certified in 2017. There
are about 60 biodynamic wine estates practicing
Demeter in Austria, joining 221 member
producers that also include beekeepers, brewers,
fisheries and gardeners.
“I believe there’s a certain positive energy

epicureasia.com 61
 “Vineyards don’t have to look like clean alleys,” he shares. “They From past to future
should look natural, with grasses that go their own way. Organic The tasting of Zierfandler that spanned nine vintages between
berries are smaller and the skin is thicker, which help to reduce 198 and 1988 was made possible because of Johannes’ lease and
mold infection. Furthermore, the aroma is in the skin of the grape, subsequent purchase of the historical house and cellars of the
so we preserve those in our wines by not using filtration. We also cooperative winery of Gumpoldskirchen. While the cooperative has
stopped irrigation, which then pressures the plant to go deeper into moved out, their archival store of liquid gold from 195 continues to
the soil to get water.” reside in the cellar alongside the Gebeshuber production facilities,
and which was generously poured for us. We learnt that the style
The path less trodden of wine after World War II was in the Auslese, or sweeter, style –
Johannes first produced all the expected grape varieties from his Johannes attributes it to the people’s taste for something decadent
winery, a total of 25 that included Austrian staples Gruner Veltliner after the privations of wartime.
and Zweigelt. However, it was just too much to handle, and in 200, What was surprising was the style of Gebeshuber wines shown
he made the bold and less commercially driven decision to focus from 200 to the present day. It was important to Johannes to
precisely on white Zierfandler and Rotgipfer, and red Sankt Laurent restore Zierfandler and Rotgipfer, the two endemic grapes of the
and Pinot Noir. Thermenregion, to sommeliers’ menus in the country. He laments,
In 2010, he took the further step to adopt a monovarietal “Looking at wine lists, I saw all the other winegrowing regions
single-vineyard concept of Zierfandler, Rotgipfer, Sankt Laurent and there – almost exclusively, Wachau, Burgenland and Südsteiermark.
Pinot Noir, making them 80 percent of all his vineyard holdings, You could only find Zierfandler and Rotgipfer at the heurigen (wine
while the remainder comprises Gemischter Satz, the traditional taverns) back then.” The two grapes were often blended together,
Austrian field blend. While still dealing with just four grapes, this known as Gumpoldskirchner, and their popularity dates back to the
means having to track and manage 2 distinct parcels spread out Habsburg dynasty. The former is high in acidity and rich in extract,
over 25 hectares, some on highly prized fossil limestone soils that while the latter is juicier and fruitier with gentler acidity, and need
contribute to the grapes’ renowned minerality. The oldest vines the right handling in order to bring out their full potential and
are 80, while the youngest are at least 18 years old. Incidentally, his ageability. He strives for purity and precision, taming tannins and not
two sons have grown together with the winery, being 20 and 18 fermenting on skins, to achieve this style.
respectively. Having invested heavily into Gebeshuber over the past 20
However, by far the hardest decision that kept him up at nights years, whether through expansion or buying the production facility,
was whether to switch to screw cap closure in 200. He didn’t dare Johannes is consistently tweaking and critically developing the
initially to go all the way, so he split his production 50-50 between resources and grapes under his care. His goal is as much personal
cork and screw cap. Local customers loved it and he became the as it is a professional mission for the region. A sparkling Zierfandler
second producer in Austria in 2005 to convert fully to screw cap. Sekt is next, as are a few other village bottlings. Before we part, I ask
The decision however caused consternation on the export market him how he derives his decisions – whether from the analytical or
– which didn’t embrace the idea until a good six years later when it emotional side of his brain. His answer is swift and clear: “100 percent
had then become an industry norm in Austria. emotional.”

GEBESHUBER VOM GEBESHUBER LAGE GEBESHUBER LAGE LAIM

MUSCHELKALK PINOT MODLER ZIERFLANDER ROTGIPFLER 2015
NOIR 2016 2015 Grapes: 100% Rotgipfler
Grapes: 100% Pinot Noir Grapes: 100% Zierflander Taste: Rotgipfler’s aromatic
Taste: A zesty Austrian Taste: At 14.5%, this is a profile really stands out here,
Pinot Noir, this bright big white, but its power is with expressive white fruit and
number sees spontaneous well-sheathed in buttery, white florals on the nose. There’s
fermentation in open warm notes of mango and a medley of lychee and coconut
wooden tubs, mashed by pear, with hints of pineapple notes, with a delicate honeyed
hand and stored for 10 sweetness. High levels of tone that belies its supple savoury
months in a 500-litre barrel. acidity along with elegant character. A big wine at 14.5% that
Expect a soft entry of dark structure and potential to will mature gracefully over as many
berries, with balance, ample age make this one for the as 30 years. $83
minerality, spices on the cellar. Drink with seared
palate and a long finish. $42 seafood or roasted veal. $83 Gebeshuber wines are available
from leopold.sg

62 epicureasia.com
 RAISING THE BAR

A whisky new year

The interest in malts continue unabated in 2019 with these new releases.

Manzanilla sherry, Bordeaux wine and port barrels contribute their

commanding, individual character to the limited release Bowmore
Vintner’s Trilogy. The 18 Year Old Double Matured Manzanilla is the
youngest but also the most all-rounded, with salted caramel and a
bitter note of orange peel on the finish. The most popular, 26 Year
Old Wine Matured’s amber hue hints at its full-bodied spice and oak,
with a dry, tannic finish. The final 27 Year Old has the richest balance
of peat smoke and port-finished toffee character, finishing with
Bowmore’s signature hint of salt. $2,197, set of three from The Grande
Whisky Collection, #05-01 ION, 2 Orchard Turn.
Sherry cask expert Glendronach is making a splash not just with
its Revival Aged 15 Years ($299) – which was brought back after
being discontinued in 2015, but with the 1993 #393 Aged 25 Years
($1,099). The latter was selected by master blender Rachel Barrie
as an exclusive for Southeast Asia, and is memorably composed of
apricot Danish and sultana notes, with a dry sour raspberry and
dark chocolate finish. Distributed by Malt Wine Asia and retails at
The Grande Whisky Collection.

Speyside single malt Glenrothes heralds its return to Edrington

ownership with the bright and catchy Soleo Collection, featuring
four all-new whiskies now available in Singapore. Newer drinkers
will find the 12 Year Old easy to enjoy with sweet vanilla notes,
while longtime fans gravitate to the 18 and 25 Years Old, aged in
sherry casks. The Whisky Maker’s Cut at 8.8 is the strongest and
most appealing with its nutmeg, orange and warming spices.
At leading retail outlets including asherbws.com

64 epicureasia.com
 FROM ST EMILION
TO LION CITY

Two new distributors have joined the fray with fresh picks for the market. Interco
MLE is established by Jeremiah Kee, who aims to bring in more independent
bottlers to Singapore. They are the main distributors of Blackadder International,
which is acclaimed for its Raw Cask bottlings complete with cask sediment and
bottled at cask strength. Look for a range of rum and Japanese whisky, alongside
heavy hitter Scotch gems, such as the Raw Cask Glen Ord 13 Year Old 200 ($167
from interco-mle.sg). At 61.5, it’s a powerhouse of ripe fruit with lingering grassy,
leathery notes on the long finish.

Zerlina Zhuang is the driver behind Spirits

Castle, which also brings in independent It was a wonderful start, as summarised by
Taiwanese bottles along with the exciting new Singapore chancellor Melvin Choo of
single malt from Wales, Penderyn. While the the Jurade de Saint-Emilion’s establishment
Madeira Finish expression is the best-known of a local chapter in November. Seven
Penderyn house style, its Dragon Series is
members were inducted, including wine
noted for maturation finishes in Madeira, red
merchant Sandy Tan from La Vigne D’or
wine barriques and peated quarter casks. For
and Dr Richard Chen, in the presence of 110
connoisseurs, the Gold Range is bottled at 6
and the latest Rich Oak ($10 from spiritscastle. dinner guests and 12 Jurats representing
sg) edition was officially launched in Singapore. their respective wine houses at a ballroom
Its youthfulness of green apple and guava notes in Marina Bay Sands. The sumptuous
balance well with accents of cinnamon, vanilla menu prepared by DB Bistro featured
cream and oak. Maine lobster paired with a lithe Château
Lanbersac Cuvée Or Rouge, and Petit Filet
Special bottlings are all the rage, and 1855 The Migon, which matched with an earthy
Bottle Shop has managed to secure a highly rare Château Laroze Grand Cru Classé 2011.
aged Lowlands single malt for Singapore. It’s the
The oldest wine brotherhood in the
first time that Auchentoshan is participating in
world celebrates its 820th anniversary
a single cask programme, and the result is The
this year, with a grand celebration in
Auchentoshan 1987 30 Year Old Single Cask ($1,088
from 1855thebottleshop.com), with just 383 bottles Saint-Emilion in June on occasion of the
for Singapore. The triple-distilled malt is smooth 20th anniversary of the Jurisdiction’s
with honey and melon notes, delicately accented inscription on the UNESCO World Heritage
with hints of apple pie and rose petal, finishing List. Look out for more Saint-Emilion
with a distinct ginger aftertaste. events happening locally over the
year. jurade.sg

epicureasia.com 65
 CELLAR CHOICE

These vegan-friendly
TASI PROSECCO DOC 2017
Sparkling wines are not
fined, and would usually be

wines do not use a safe vegan choice. This

fresh, boutique Glera from

animal products as
Veneto goes the extra mile
to adhere to organic and
biodynamic principles for

fining agents in the

additional peace of mind.
Tasi means hush in Venetian
slang, and the focus here is

winemaking process. on its delicate nose of white

flowers and fine structure,
thanks to 20 days on lees
after fermentation. With a
Domaine Laporte dry finish, it’s suitable to
Le Grand Rochoy 2015 drink now, on its own and
with dim sum or raw seafood.
First established in 1850, Domaine Laporte changed hands $40 from baccowines.com
in 1986 when respected winegrower Henri Bourgeois took
over. Now Bourgeois’ grandsons are in charge of the vividly
intense Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Noir from this estate. VINS DU JURA THILL
CHARDONNAY SUR
The Le Grand Rochoy bottling has always been a prestige MONTBOUCON 2015
selection of fruit with tightly wound mineral texture and Certified organic since
2015, this Côtes du Jura
richness that is extracted from its renowned soils. The producer has always had a
wine is balanced by fleshy stone fruit and flinty, almost light ecological footprint.
From manual labour to using
smoky notes. While young now, it can be appreciated with recycled bottles that weigh
seafood, fish or white meat. $68 from Wine Clique less, Eric and Bérengere
Thill run the operations
on 5.2 hectares of old
vines in Gevingey. On the
HIGHLIGHTS sur Montboucon terroir,
the Chardonnay’s power
›K_\_`ccj`[\k\iif`i`jX),$_\ZkXi\dfefgfc\m`e\pXi[ZXcc\[;fdX`e\ is amplified by the fine
du Rochoy, which is south-facing and rich in rare silex soil. vintage year, with full grape
›)'(,nXjgifd`j`e^XZifjjk_\i\^`fe#n`k_XnXid[ipjldd\i maturity leading to well
leading to lower yields but high quality in Sancerre. distinguished fruit character
›K_\[fdX`e\nXjZ\ik`Ó\[]lccpfi^Xe`ZYp<ZfZ\ikj`eZ\)'(*#Xe[ on the palate and superb
named one of the top 100 wineries of the world in 2014.
aromatics on the nose. Enjoy
with gentle meats, such
as roast pork or poached
veal, or with stronger
VINNATUR LOOKS TO seafood dishes. $54.90 from
2019 Established in 2006 in Italy, brownbagwines.com

VinNatur is to date one of the very few

associations in the world that commits
KUMEU RIVER ESTATE
to consumers’ health by guaranteeing CHARDONNAY 2017
no pesticide, herbicide or synthetic The Croation family of
Brajkovich has firmly placed
chemical use by its 180-plus natural wine New Zealand Chardonnay on
producers from nine European countries. the map, with bottlings that
“Our future goals include replacing beat top-class Burgundies
in a 2014 blind tasting. Their
copper and sulphur with biodegradable estate bottling is drawn
vegetable extracts that help the vine build from six vineyard sites for a
well-rounded, more complex
up resistance, as well as increasing the and supple selection, which
vineyard’s biodiversity,” says Angiolino was whole-bunch pressed
Maule, VinNatur’s president. The next and underwent 100% barrel
fermentation with natural
edition of their important fair, renamed as yeast. The cool vintage lent
VinNatur Tasting, takes place from 6 to 8 a citrus and peach aroma,
carried through with ample
April. vinnatur.org/en/
acidity on the finish. $67
from Vintage Fine Wines

66 epicureasia.com
 CELLAR CHOICE

KOPPITSCH ROT NO.7

AUTHENTISCH 2014
Alexander and Maria Koppitsch
Powell & Son Steinert are enthusiastic adherents of
Shiraz 2015 low intervention winemaking
with a focus on tasting what the
If there’s anything you should expect from soil brings to the grape. Based
in Neusiedl am See in Austria
Dave Powell, it would be straight talk. After where Alexander took over his
ostensibly being ousted from Torbreck in family’s vineyards, the estate is
hand-farmed based on Rudolph
2013, which he founded, Powell set up a new Steiner’s biodynamic principles.
a venture with his eldest son Callum who Fermentation takes place naturally
without temperature controls,
trained in Rhone. Steinert is their top single while wine rests on lees until
vineyard bottling in Eden Valley, with historic bottled without filtering and fining.
The blend of Zweigelt, St Laurent,
dry-grown 120-year-old vines at 80m altitude Blaufrankisch and Syrah is juicy
that produce intensely complex flavours. This with a touch of structure from
aging in large oak barrels, with
is destined icon territory, with barely a misstep expected notes of dark cherry
from heady aromas to the voluptuous yet firm and black pepper, and hints of
limestone complexity. $46.90
framework of the palate, finally finishing with from brownbagwines.co
the lingering traces of soft, dusty tannins.
Expect a cellaring window of at least 20 years.
VILLA S. ANNA POLDO
$750 from Indigo Wine Co DOCG 2010
Poldo is made only in excellent
vintage years, when a strict
selection of grapes destined for
HIGHLIGHTS Vino Nobile di Montepulciano
are used to make this full-bodied
›9\cfe^`e^kfk_\Jk\`e\ik]Xd`cp#k_`jknf$_\ZkXi\ blend of 80% Sangiovese, 10%
single vineyard in the Flaxman Valley area yielded just Merlot and 10% Mammolo. The
200 cases in 2015. Its fruit provides the backbone for
estate is led by an all-female team
famous Barossa wines.
›K_\]il`k`j_Xe[g`Zb\[`ek_i\\j\gXiXk\gXjj\jXe[ of mother and daughters, who
fermented using traditional open-top concrete vats and harvest grapes manually and
pump overs. Once fermented the wine is racked and the work with sustainable methods
skins are slowly basket-pressed to encourage gentle on the fruit. Rested underground
extraction of tannin. for 34 months in oak barrels, the
›8]k\i]\id\ekXk`fe#k_\n`e\^f\j`ekfe\n;fd`e`hl\ wine is kept for two years after
Laurent barriques – legendary Burgundy oak barrels bottling. If drinking now, decant it
made from, air-dried Tronçais wood. Wild malolactic
fully to release its hints of violets
fermentation takes place followed by 18 months oak
maturation before bottling without fining or filtration. and wild berries, with savoury
nuances of spices. Great with
game like venison, or traditional
Tuscan stews. $117 from Wine
List Asia

CAMBRIDGE ROAD THE

GRAVEYARD BLOCK PINOT
NOIR 2016
Its naked bottle – save for a
manilla tag – tips you off on
the winemaker’s philosophy
at first sight. No fining or
Natural and artisan wine show Raw Wine
filtration, with extremely small
celebrates its 18th fair in London from 10 levels of sulphites, result in a
to 11 March, with editions now spanning structured, seamless Pinot Noir
from a biodynamic vineyard
across Berlin, Montreal, New York and L.A. in Martinborough. Look for
Closer to home, Temple Cellars organised classically styled strawberry and
Funk’d Fest in 2018, encompassing cherry notes, with a savoury,
wild herb palate. While rich with
naturally healthy fermentation in food and texture and acidity, this is one to
drink. The fair will be back this or next drink young, together with roast
fowl and light pasta dishes. $330
year, check for updates at fb.com/funkdfest per 6 pack from vinomofo.com.sg

68 epicureasia.com
 TIPPLE TIPS

Jump-start 2019 on a lighter note. Quench your thirst

with a Seedlip cocktail that relies on layers of flavour rather
than alcohol for a sophisticated sip. Head to Wild Honey
Mandarin Gallery for your Seedlip fix.

Raspberry and Little Red Dot Know your botanicals

thyme shrub
›,'dcJ\\[c`gJg`Z\0+ Alcohol-free Seedlip
›),'^iXjgY\ii`\j ›+'dcZfc[Z_Xdfd`c\k\X ‘spirits’ contain all the
›/k_pd\jgi`^j ›),dck_pd\Xe[ flavour but no ABV,
›-bX]]`ic`d\c\Xm\j raspberry shrub thanks to a secret
›),'^ZXjk\ijl^Xi ›('dcZ_\iipZfi[`Xc distillation technique.
›(),dcXggc\Z`[\i ›Y\c`dY`e^]cfn\ij#]fi Its heavier variant,
vinegar garnish Spice 94, brings out
›(),dcm\ial`Z\ notes from warming
» Add crushed ice to a Allspice berry and
» Combine all mixing glass, and add all cardamom, with oak
ingredients in a Mason ingredients except garnish. and grapefruit peel for
jar and muddle to Stir then strain into a a pleasant tannic and
release flavours. vintage cocktail glass, bitter finish.
» Screw on the lid, topped with fresh crushed
give a shake, and ice and garnished with
leave overnight. Strain flowers.
through a fine strainer
the next day.

thyme sprigs

apple cider kaffir lime

vinegar leaves
raspberries

cherry earl
cordial grey tea

belimbing
PHOTOGRAPHY EDDIE TEO flowers
STYLING DARRYL PESTANA
RECIPE MICHAEL HAN, PLAN B ASIA epicureasia.com 69
 E N T E R TA I N I N G & T R AV E L

Noku Maldives

» Redefining plant-based fare

» The hidden gems of San Francisco
» Noku Maldives, a sanctuary of indulgence
epicureasia.com 71
 CLEAN
E AT I N G ,
GREEN
E AT I N G
With a wheelbarrow full of plant-based
ingredients more readily available than ever,
there’s no better time to explore
these bracing flavours. Trust us, you’ll hardly
miss the meat.
 Spring Plate with fermented
cashew cheese
Heralding the start of spring and the micro-seasons, this
dish incorporates 14 raw and cooked spring vegetables with
colourful leaves, cheese (made from fermenting cashew nuts
with natural yeast). A plate of garden perfection indeed.

Grey Japanese paper

dyeing plate from HULS.
 Spring Textures of Carrots
Plate with with Yuzu Gel and
fermented Buckwheat
cashew cheese This Japanese-inspired dish is served on a beautiful
bespoke wooden dish to bring out the elements of the
Serves 2 heirloom carrot – from root to stem.
Prep time 8 hours fermentation + 5
minutes
Cook time 1 hour
Serves 6
cashew nut cheese Prep time 1 hour 30 minutes + 2 » Add yellow carrots and stir under
1kg cashew nuts, toasted hours marination low heat and cook the carrots till
2g salt Cook time 1 hour 30 minutes soft.
6.6g honey » Pour the remaining ingredients and
white heirloom carrot tartare stir well.
» Soak nuts overnight in water 200g carrots, grated » Once the carrots are soft, blend
» Blend nuts with salt and leave them 25ml sesame oil them into a purée.
overnight covered with cloth 25ml yuzu juice
» Once done, remove the top layer and 25g minced shallots pickling liquid for carrot slices
discard. Fold the honey in with the 3g red chilli, deseeded 200g white balsamic vinegar
remaining layer. 10g Dijon mustard 100g water
10g capers, chopped 100g sugar
to assemble 200g carrots, chopped
1 baby spring onion, charred » Mix all ingredients together and
1 pearl white onion, pickled season with salt to your liking. » Bring all ingredients (except
1 red radish, sliced » Strain off excess water from the carrots) to a boil and then let it cool
fresh snap peas, halved mixture. down to 30°C
50g broccoli couscous (available from » Finish with some olive oil for » Marinate overnight with chopped
iherb.com) flavour. carrots.
1 heirloom tomato confit
1 baby carrot, yellow, sliced carrot purée to assemble
1 baby carrot, purple, sliced 20g shallots, chopped 1 baby yellow carrot, raw
5 pieces of red vein leaves 5g thyme 1 baby white carrot, raw
3 pieces of nasturtium 5g garlic 1 baby purple carrot, raw
edible flowers 200g yellow carrots, chopped pickled carrots
5 pieces of spinach leaves, picked (available from Culina) 5 red vein sorrel leaves
3 pieces of red endives 3g sugar fried buckwheat
3 oxalis wood sorrel, green (available 3g cumin powder
from Edible Garden City) » Assemble according to picture on
» Sweat shallots, thyme, garlic till page 75.
» Assemble according to picture on aromatised.
page 73.
 Beetroot Dumpling
This dish is a great example of zero wastage. Beetroot
is sliced raw and compressed, while beetroot trimming
is juiced down and made into a pickling stock. The
skin is peeled, fried, then dried into a crumb and
mixed into the cheese hazelnut praline filling.

Serves 10 yuzu ponzu gel

Prep time 2 hours +  hours marinade 175ml yuzu juice
Cook time 2 hours 30 minutes 1 liter water
88g sugar
cheese filling 33ml white soya sauce
750ml milk 33ml mirin vinegar
100ml cream 25g agar powder
32.5ml lemon juice
10g salt » Pour all ingredients into a pot and bring
them to a boil.
» In a pan, boil milk and cream to 95°C. » Boil for 10 minutes to dissolve the agar
Then add lemon juice and let the mixture powder and stir well
boil for 2 minutes. » Once done, pour the mixture in a tray
» Set aside for 15 minutes, allowing the and let it cool down before setting it in
curds to curdle up. the fridge.
» Once it is set, pour off the whey and » Place the chilled mixture in a blender and
keep the curd. Add more salt if desired and blend until it achieves a gel-like texture.
blend until smooth.
beetroot dressing
beetroot pickle 1 liter beetroot juice
200g white balsamic vinegar 0g xanthan gum
100g water 10g salt
100g sugar 10g sugar
250g beetroot, sliced 50ml olive oil

» In a pot, bring all ingredients (except » Mix all ingredients, except olive oil,
beetoroot) to a boil before cooling it down together and blend.
to room temperature. » Split the beetroot dressing with 50ml of
» Marinate the sliced beetroot in pickling olive oil and plate accordingly.
liquid for four hours.
» Wrap beetroot with cheese filling.
Large Rock plate
from HULS.
Brush ginsai Frame plate from HULS.
Fork, stylist’s own.
 Tomato tartare
with spring micro
herbs
Leverage on the different colours and sizes of heirloom
tomatoes and turn them into a raw tartare. Tomato juice and
trimmings are used to make clear tomato water. Optional: add
dry and grinded black olives to form a black oil dressing.

Serves 2
Prep time 1 hour 30minutes » Cut tomatoes in small pieces. Mix all
Cook time 2 hours 30 minutes ingredients well and blend in a blender.
» Once done, strain in a cheese cloth and
tomato jam season with salt and fish sauce to balance
1kg Roma tomatoes the acidity.
50ml extra virgin olive oil
2 sprigs of thyme black olive oil (optional)
1 clove of garlic, chopped 200g of pitted black olive
a pinch of salt 100ml of extra virgin olive oil

» Set boiling water to blanch tomatoes, » Preheat oven to 160°C, dehydrate black
peel the skin off and de-seed them. Mash olives till dry for about 0 minutes.
the tomato. » Blend with blender until smooth.
» In a hot pan, add olive oil, thyme and » Before use, shake well.
garlic. Stir well and until aromatised, be
careful not to burn them. assembly
» Mix tomatoes and cook them until they raw heirloom tomatoes, peeled
are completely dry, almost like a jam fried garlic chips
texture. fried shallot rings
micro chives
tomato water micro basil
2kg Roma tomatoes
20g Oba leaves » Season tomato jam with salt and black
a pinch of salt pepper
1 tsp fish sauce » Raw heirloom tomatoes can be cut
according to shapes of your liking.
» Assemble according to picture.
Large Rock plate from HULS.
 Parsnip Cake with
basil sorbet and
burnt orange
This plant-based dessert that incorporates a root vegetable
(parsnip), a fruit (orange) and a herb (basil).
Tasty and refreshing? You got it.

Serves 8 » Mix all the ingredients together and

Prep time 1 hour 30 minutes + overnight bring to a boil.
freezing » Let it cool before placing the mixture
Cook time 2 hours 30 minutes into the freezer.
» Blend in PacoJet before serving.
parsnip cake
38g butter burnt orange segments
60g egg white 1 orange
62g icing sugar
63g parsnip purée » Segment orange and cut into pieces.
10g corn flour » Torch the segments to have that
13g honey burnt taste.

» Grease butter on a 12cm mould and place orange curd

it in the chiller. 500ml orange juice
» Whisk egg white slowly with all the 125g sugar
ingredients. Make sure all the ingredients 2.5g agar powder
are kept cold. 10g gelatin
» Pour in the mixture into the mould.
» Bake at 120°C for 10 minutes. » Boil all ingredients in a pot and let it set.
» Once set, blend it to get a smooth gel-like
basil sorbet texture.
1 litre water » Pour into piping bag to be used
500ml glucose syrup before plating.
500ml simple syrup
225ml lemon juice assembly
3 branches of basil leaves » Assemble according to picture.
 GREEN MACHINE
+
VIRGIN COSMO DE CURE
+
PINEAPPLE & GINGER COOLER
Refreshing, wholesome and thoroughly addictive, these
colourful mocktails can be the life of any party.

GREEN MACHINE VIRGIN COSMO DE CURE PINEAPPLE AND GINGER COOLER

best paired with Parsnip Cake with Basil best paired with Beetroot Dumpling best paired with Textures of Carrots with
Sorbet and Burnt Orange. Yuzu Gel and Buckwheat.
roselle syrup
200g coriander, washed 00g roselle flower 500g ginger
100ml water 200ml water 500ml water
pinch of salt sugar, to taste 150ml organic Malaysian honey
30ml lime juice 120ml pineapple juice
200ml green apple juice » Simmer roselle flowers in water to 30ml spicy ginger beer (available from East
extract the colour and flavour for 25 Imperial)
» Blend coriander, then add water, salt and minutes. ginger jelly candy, to garnish
lime juice to blend further until fine. » Sous vide roselle flowers at 60.5°C
» Strain liquid from the blender to separate overnight. » Cook ginger down in water and honey
the debris. » The following day, add sugar to taste. for 20 minutes at 65°C until a syrup
» Juice green apples to get 200ml of juice. Strain the syrup for any debris, then chill consistency is achieved.
until needed. » Mix in spicy ginger beer, garnish with
rice crisps ginger jelly candy, then serve in a rock
1 cup rice rosewater glass or tiki mug.
50g rose flower
» Cook rice with  parts water until the 500ml water
grains are firm.
» Blend rice with water at 1:1 ratio. » Simmer rose flower in water for about
» Spread out rice on a tray and allow to dry 30 minutes to get a concentrate of natural
overnight. Break into pieces when rice has flavours.
dehydrated into a crisp.
assembly
to serve 90ml roselle syrup
15ml soda 10ml rose water
green apple balls 30ml lime juice
rice crisps 15ml egg white

» Mix green apple juice with coriander- » Fill up shaker with ice and give a few stirs
lime juice mix and soda, then serve in a to chill, discard ice.
high ball glass and garnish with green » Pour all ingredients into the shaker and
apple balls and rice crisps. dry shake it for 10 seconds.
» Add in ice and hard shake for 10 seconds.
Double strain the mocktail and serve it in a
martini glass.
 Green
Machine

Pineapple
and Ginger
Cooler

Virgin Cosmo
De Cure

Concept ADELINE WONG

Art direction and styling YONG WOEI NA
Photos CHING
Videography by TU JIE RUI
Text VICTORIA LIM
Recipes by ANDREW WALSH OF CURE
Shot at CURE
 MASTERCLASS

W hen head chef Fabrice Mergalet

was first tasked to come up with a
gluten-free menu for The Butcher’s
Wife, a cosy restaurant in Tiong Bahru, he thought
it would be a headache. It turned out to be easier
than he thought as the experiment process is
similar to other recipes he has created. One of
the difficulties, however, for the French chef was
getting the right gluten-free flour ratio for the
pumpkin gnocchi. It took him and his team several
tries before they could crack the code. “Once we
found the golden ratio, everything went smooth
sailing for us,” he says.
Mergalet chose to incorporate pumpkin in
the gluten-free gnocchi. “Pumpkin is a very versatile ingredient,

Mastering… it works well in both sweet and savoury dishes. By adding the
orange squash plant to the recipe, you’ll get a smooth, creamy

gluten-free and delicate texture in one bite.”

For greens to go with the gnocchi pumpkin, Mergalet shares

pumpkin gnocchi his crowd-pleasing Broccolini & Radicchio Salad, accompanied

with a creamy-salty bagna cauda and not-too-sweet compressed

and sprouting peaches. “It’s always better to blanch the broccolini and
radicchio in boiling salted water to keep the colours. Be careful

broccolini & not to overdress the salad, this will keep it crisp and fresh,”
shares Mergalet.

radicchio salad
PHOTOGRAPHY EDDIE TEO

For wine pairing recommendations, Mergalet suggests

the Domaine Dupasquier from France, a red wine that goes
beautifully with the salad as it’s herbacious with a rustic
Head chef Fabrice Mergalet shares two tasty character. For the pumpkin gnocchi, have it with Punt Road
gluten-free dishes from The Butcher’s Wife’s Chardonnay from Australia. The Chardonnay exudes vanilla-
menu. By Victoria Lim esque and buttery notes with a hint of ripe white fleshed fruits.

84 epicureasia.com
 1.3 1.3 1.3

1.3 1.5 1.5

1.7 1.7

GLUTEN-FREE PUMPKIN 2 cloves of garlic, grated a dough. Let it rest for 30 minutes before
GNOCCHI 20ml lemon juice shaping the dough into gnocchi balls
50g sage butter (15g each).
Serves 2 40ml water 1.4 Blanch the gnocchi in salted water for
Prep time 1 hour 20 minutes 20g pumpkin cubes 3 minutes.
Cook time 10 minutes 2 brussels sprouts 1.5 In a pot, melt sage butter with water
to create an emulsion. Then add cubes
200g potatoes 1.1 Roast potatoes at 190°C for 30 minutes of pumpkin and brussels sprouts into the
700g pumpkin before crushing them. emulsion.
200g gluten-free flour 1.2 Roast pumpkin at 170°C for 15 minutes 1.6 Add cooked gnocchi, then garnish with
1 egg before crushing them. Parmesan cheese.
50g Parmesan cheese 1.3 Mix flour, egg, Parmesan cheese, Tabasco
10ml Tabasco sauce sauce, ginger, garlic and lemon juice together. assembly
10g ginger, grated Then knead the mixture together to form 1.7 Plate according to picture, or as desire.

epicureasia.com 85
 1.1 3.1 3.2

“ It’s always better to

blanch the broccolini
and radicchio in
boiling salted water
to keep the colours. SPROUTING BROCCOLINI
Be careful not to & RADICCHIO SALAD
overdress the salad,
this will keep it crisp
Serves 2
Prep time 40 minutes + 2 hours infusion

and fresh.” sprouting broccolini & radicchio bagna cauda

Check out epicure on YouTube for a behind- 2kg sprouting broccolini 2 cloves of garlic
the-scenes video of this masterclass.
1 radicchio 3 sprigs of thyme
300ml olive oil 6 anchovies
3.3
200g pommery mustard 400ml cream
2 chillies, sliced 100ml milk
salt for seasoning 20g potatoes
10ml olive oil
1.1 Blanch the sprouted broccolini and
radicchio in salted boiling water for 2 minutes, 3.1 Cook garlic and thyme till slightly golden
before placing them into a bowl of ice water. brown.
1.2 After 30 minutes, pat the vegetables 3.2 Add anchovies and cook till they break
dry and set aside. apart.
3.3 Then add cream, milk and potatoes.
1.3 Mix oil, mustard and sliced chillies, before 3.4 Cook till potatoes become soft, then blend
tossing in sprouted broccolini and radicchio. and strain through a fine strainer.
3.5 Finish the dip by mixing in olive oil.
peaches
2 peaches assembly
4.1 Plate according to picture, or as desire.
2.1 Slice peaches before juicing the trimmings.
Put the sliced peaches and juice in a vacuumed
bag and chill it for two hours.

86 epicureasia.com
epicureasia.com 87
Yosemite Valley

C H E F ’ S T R AV E LO G U E

The
great escape
Malcolm Lee explores the unspoilt wilderness
of San Francisco on a whirlwind road trip.

T he Gold Rush. The Summer of Love. Silicon Valley.

San Francisco has many nicknames. She’s like a chameleon
who changes every year. It’s a city unlike any other in the
United States.
Working long hours at my restaurant Candelnut makes me
Mirror Lake; I have heard plenty of lovely stories from friends who
went to the latter.
During my hike to Nevada Falls, adorable squirrels were out
in full force, even though they seemed more interested in the
backpackers who were trying to keep their food safe. They made
yearn to travel. I jump at any given chance to take both long or hiking up the stairs to reach the the top of Nevada Fall less painful.
short trips to recharge and gain new inspirations for my dishes. Last Being at the top, sitting on the warm granite and feeling the
July, I spent two weeks spent in San Francisco, which was just what cool sprays of water from the fall takes your mind off stress and
I needed for my mind, body and soul. problems.
Mirror Lake, on the other hand, was not as impressive as the
Conquering Yosemite Valley sandy beaches and views of the granite walls above, but it was
I had the crazy idea to spend a couple of days in Yosemite during interesting to learn about its history and why visitors were once
summer. I wanted to witness the full beauty of Mother Nature so my charged for admission. I spotted a group of teenagers tubing on the
plan was to hike up to Nevada Falls and Bridalvail Falls, as well as lake. Tip: remember to bring a tube and join in the fun.

88 epicureasia.com
 Bridalveil Falls was the highlight of my days in Yosemite Valley. year, rather than simply spring, summer, autumn and winter. The
Not only is it the most accessible waterfall (you’ll see it when you ingredients come from her five-acre plot in the nearby San Lorenzo
enter Yosemite Valley), it is also, in my opinion, the most beautiful vineyards and the rooftop garden atop the restaurant, while meat
waterfall you’ll ever see. Plunging at 189 meters, the Bridalveil and seafood are sourced locally. The wine list features a great
Fall has a light and swaying flow; when the sunlight hits you’ll be selection of global wines and Japanese sakes, but its catalogue
surrounded by an ethereal mist. The most exciting part of my hike of rare Californian vinos is the standout. If you can, stay at one
was when I came face to face with a grizzly bear. It was just a few of SingleThread’s five guest rooms – hosting guests overnight
meters away from me but it merely gave me a look through and according the principles of omotenashi, the Japanese style of
went about its merry way. Now, this is an experience to speak about. hospitality which anticipates a guest’s every need, has always
been an integral part of the concept. There are cosy touches in
Eating through the Golden City the rooms, including a fireplace, heated bathroom floors, a huge
When it comes to dining, you have to try SingleThread Farm soaking tub and a Japanese toilet. There’s a space-age-silver Ratio
Restaurant. It offers three 11-course, kaiseki-style menus daily. Each coffee maker and Teforia tea maker (the latter scans your choice
showcases the current moment in nature and uses produce that is of tea pod and sets the water temperature and steeping time
at its absolute peak, as determined by chef Katina Connaughton’s
Japanese belief that there are 72 microseasons throughout the Lazy Bear

TREATS by Lazy Bear:

Gummy Bear, Cosmic
Brownie, Macaron and Gold
Nugget

Lazy Bear’s Honey,

Banana, Walnut

Lazy Bear’s Seaweed,

Kale, Matcha

epicureasia.com 89
 Hillside Villa Decks,
Rush Creek

Early Winter in Sonoma County,

a dinner series by SingleThread
Farm Restaurant

automatically); treats in the complimentary snack bar include Cruise control

pressed juices and homemade ice creams in flavours like rhubarb, From Rush Creek Lodge I headed to Big Sur, a very worthy road
and lavender and sunflower seed. trip destination for anyone who loves the outdoors. The rugged
Another interesting stop is Lazy Bear, an underground supper stretch of coastline offers stunning beaches and mountains and
stop. You sit where you’re told, eat what’s placed in front of you, also some really great restaurants. Take Highway 1; despite the
and make polite conversation with strangers throughout the longer travelling time, the views of the Pacific Ocean, rocky
meal. Each course seems familiar. (There is just one menu a night.) bluffs, sandy beaches, towering redwoods, and vibrant green
Chef-owner David Barzelay can’t get too adventurous, but each hills are worth the extra time spent on the road.
dish has unexpected elements that will make diners sit up and Make a pit stop at Pebble Beach for the nearby Spyglass Hill
take notice. The crisply seared scallop is flanked by bright yellow Golf Course. There are picturesque views as well, all of which
sunflower petals, a hint of persimmon, brown butter and crisp you can see on this scenic drive. Stop at Fanshell Overlook to
sunchoke chips. Try the matsutake soup, an intense mushroom view a white sand beach where harbour seals are. The Cypress
broth infused with Douglas fir that tastes the way a fresh-cut tree Point Lookout offers one of the most dramatic views of the coast
smells. in the entire state. Check out The Lone Cypress, which has stood

90 epicureasia.com
 Winemaker Weekends,
Rush Creek Lodge

The crisply seared

scallop is flanked
El Capitan, by bright yellow
Yosemite Valley
sunflower petals, a
SingleThread Farm
Restaurant
hint of persimmon,
brown butter and
crisp sunchoke chips.
Try the matsutake
soup, an intense
mushroom broth
infused with Douglas
fir that tastes the way
a fresh-cut
tree smells.

Malcolm Lee
is the head
chef and
owner of the
first Michelin-
starred Peranakan restaurant,
alone, clinging to its granite pedestal for Candlenut. Lee, is also the
over 250 years. first Singaporean recipient of
Don’t miss the Natural Bridges State the Miele Guide Scholarship.
Beach. It’s famous for the natural arch Infusing modern techniques with
in the huge rock located right off of the traditional flavours. The 33-year-
shoreline. This stop is a must-do as it’s old chef has created several
the only one of the three original arches notable dishes, such as the
that remains and is in danger of collapsing Buah Keluak Ice Cream – buah
due to erosion. If you don’t see it now, keluak nut ice cream made with
you might not see it ever. Keep an eye 80 percent Valrhona chocolate,
out for migrating gray whales, monarch served on a bed of salted
butterflies, and sea otters. There are also caramel, chocolate crumble
tide pools where you might be able to spot Wine down with a glass and topped with milk chocolate
of vino after arriving
hermit crabs, urchins, and sea stars. espuma.

epicureasia.com 91
 F R E Q U E N T F LY E R

Master of iconic
“Luxury is about having the time and the opportunities to
learn about a place, having some local assistance that can help you

moments discover the location and have a meaningful experience,” states

Steve McCurry on his definition of luxury travel. This passion to
travel deeper led him to witness the giant tortoises of Galápagos
With an illustrious career that spans over 0 years, Island in their natural habitat and have a close encounter with
Steve McCurry is renowned for his award-winning the last remaining mountain gorillas in the jungle of Virunga
evocative images. The American photographer Mountains, East Africa.
shares his travel plans and projects with Eve Tedja.
Can you tell us about your current project or preoccupation?

S
I came back from a trip to Oaxaca, Mexico with Silversea Cruises
teve McCurry’s fame skyrocketed when, disguised in Afghani to photograph the Day of the Dead. At the moment, I am currently
attire, he crossed the Pakistan border into rebel-controlled working on a long-term book project on Buddhism and supporting
Afghanistan, right before the beginning of Russian Invasion my sister, Bonnie McCurry, to promote the book that she compiled
in 1979 and captured one of the most heartbreaking images from and wrote, Steve McCurry: A Life in Pictures.
the war-torn country. One of those iconic images was the Afghan
Girl, a piercing photograph of a girl whose searing green eyes Is there still a place in the world that you have never visited and
garnered the attention of the world. would like to explore deeper?
Since then, the Philadelphia-born photographer has won I feel very lucky that, at this point in my career, it is much easier
[DESTINATION] BY STEVE MCCURRY

numerous awards, including the prestigious Robert Capa Gold for me to list the countries I haven’t been to, than the ones I have
Medal and the World Press Photo Contest, and gotten his works visited. Even so, I have barely scratched the surface of what is out
published and exhibited around the world. McCurry continues to there to see. I would love to be able to visit North Korea or Iran. We
amass captivating images of vanishing cultures, powerful animals are working on this trip to Antarctica and I feel very lucky to have
and forgotten rituals through a vibrant and humane lens, including this unique opportunity to discover new places with Silversea. It
those he took on his recent travels with Silversea Cruises. The was always my dream to visit the Galápagos Islands. Being in such
small luxury ships sail to over 1,000 fascinating destinations in the close proximity to gorillas in Uganda or snow monkeys in Japan
spirit of discovery. was also a thrill.

92 epicureasia.com
 The Galapagos Islands

Gorilla of Virunga
Mountains of East Africa

The Asaro Mudmen of

Papua New Guinea

How do you travel for leisure? Is there a

particular ritual when you explore a new place?
I’m always curious about my destination. But when
I travel somewhere new, I wander and observe
without any preconceived ideas.
Winter in Japan
Is there a destination or culture that continues
to inspire you and makes you want to dig deeper? Name one memorable dining experience you have had on
Even in the countries I have visited the most - India, China, Bhutan, your travels?
or Tibet for example - there are countless towns or remote In the Japanese Alps during a trip with Silversea in January 2017.
villages that I would still love to explore. There are situations, We dressed in traditional yukata and had what seemed like a
rural lifestyle, habits, or rituals that I would like to capture before 15-course meal, kaiseki, with the most elegant presentation at Biyu
they fade away. The pictures I took of the mud men, the Asaro no Yado, a ryokan in Nagano. e
tribespeople, is one example. They live in the rural highlands of
eastern Papua New Guinea, isolated from tourism and modernity.
Their enduring ritualistic dance involves smearing their bodies in DESTINATION HIT
mud and donning heavy clay masks. Its origin remains a mystery.
J Biyu no Yado
I’ve been fascinated with the culture of Papua New Guinea my 2951-1 Hirao Yudanaka Onsen Shimotakai-gun, Yamanouchi-machi
whole life so to be able to capture those images was really special. Nagano Japan, 381-0401 Tel: +81 269 33 4126

epicureasia.com 93
 T R AV E L F E AT U R E

THE
TREASURED
ISLAND
Spurred by pressing environmental issues (coral mining and
biodiversity loss), Noku Maldives has designed green
initiatives to help restore Maldives to its former glory.
Victoria Lim explores the luxury boutique resort.

94 epicureasia.com
M ade up of 26 atolls – consisting of more than 1,000 coral
islands – and surrounded by azure waters, it’s no surprise
that Maldives is a popular honeymoon and wedding
destination. In 2017 alone, the island country welcomed over 1.3
million visitors from around the world.
Roxy Pacific Holdings Limited, is a 5-minute seaplane ride from
Maldivian Seaplane Terminal in Malé City. Its unbeatable location
serves up a sun-kissed utopia of white, powdery sand, pristine
waters and breathtaking vistas of the magnificent Indian Ocean.
Kitted out for all you’ll need to spend a day under a cloudless sky,
When we arrived at Velana International Airport after a four- the six-month-old resort offers activities like snorkelling, kayaking
hour flight from Singapore, we were greeted with a resounding and stand-up paddle boarding. On a clear day, you can expect to see
“Maruhabaa!” from the Noku Maldives staff, who were there to pick schools of fish darting between gorgeous coral. A Noku Maldives
us up. That was to be a greeting we’d hear on loop in the days to Experience starts from US$1,866 and includes return ground and
follow. Used in place of hello, goodbye, and well wishes of happiness boat transfers, Beach Villa stay (minimum of four nights), dolphin
and good health, the Maldivian word means ‘life’. And Maldives is sightings, snorkelling and the relaxing Noku Spa Couple treatment.
indeed invigorating, thanks to the warmth of its people and the If an idyllic day baking in the sun is more your cup of tea, you’ll love
splendour of its unspoilt landscape. the ocean-facing daybeds, the resort-style infinity pool, and the cosy
cabanas. It’s beachside luxury at its finest.
Little island The food is another highlight of the resort. One of the best
White sand beaches are par for the course in Maldives – almost meals was whipped up by Noku Maldives’ executive chef Lance
every five-star resort has its own private beachfront, but the newly Seeto, who spent the last eight years on the island. Born in Papua
opened Noku Maldives offers a little more exclusivity. Think South New Guinea, the Chinese-Australian grew up in Melbourne, which
Beach in Miami, sans the ostentation. explains his penchant for reimagining Maldivian cuisine through an
Set on its very own island, Noku Maldives, built by Singapore’s Asian lens. One dish, in particular, sparkles: the lovo beef rib with

epicureasia.com 95
mango pickle. Cooked in an earth oven (a huge pit in the ground When it’s time to call it a day, go for the traditional Maldivian
lined with wood fire-heated stones), the meat is braised in port Bobo massage. Treatment beds are set up outdoors in private huts
wine and spices and then roasted in the earth oven for hours. The within a lush meditation garden, so you get to enjoy the chirping of
result? A melt-in-your-mouth beef rib bursting with smoky, earthy birds and a light, balmy breeze while a skilled masseuse kneads away
flavours. at your tense muscles using exotic oil blendd.
Of course, when in Maldives you can’t miss out the enormous
schools of colourful reef fish. For first-timer snorkellers, Beyond the beaches
professional divers from Sub Oceanic, a diving centre within Noku The collection of islands, vibrant coral reefs and a temperate climate
Maldives (you can book your snorkelling experience via your Island all year round make Maldives a perennial paradise for nature lovers
Host) will accompany you on your trip to Orimas Thila and help you - one that should be preserved.
navigate the magical beauty of the coral reefs. The school of grey Noku Maldives shares the same sentiment, which is why it has
reef sharks is a sight to behold. Tip: do not panic when the sharks included several corporate social responsibility (CSR) programmes
swim pass you, remain calm and stick close to your guide. These as part of its mission. Besides repopulating its coral and floral
playful sea creatures are just curious, and will swim away after population, there’s also a tour around Manadhoo – an island Noku
a while. Maldives adopted as part of its social responsibilities - led by general
manager Justin Heng (if you’re lucky). The island sits in the middle
Lap of luxury of glistening turquoise waters and is flanked by imposing hills. It
If you love lazy vacations, you will be pleased to know that each is where a humble community resides. We shared an energetic
guest will be assigned to an Island Host who will take care of his exchange of “Maruhabaa” with the village chief, who then brought
every need. From transport to specialised menus, they’ve got it us on a tour of the village. Before we concluded the tour, we
down pat. helped to plant a tree in the community garden and visited a local
One of the best thing to do in Noku is to enjoy the unparalleled school where kids were taught the know-hows on how to protect
view of the magnificent Indian Ocean from the comforts of your their environment throught an intriguing presentation of coral
own villa. Imagine watching the sun dip into the horizon while restoration conducted by dive manager Florian Luthi of Sub Oceanic.
sipping a refreshing Tom Collins, all sinking into the hammock We could not have ended the day on a more meaningful note. This
fitted in the Beach Villa’s backyard. slice of paradise is ours and theirs to protect.

What you can spot

around Noku Maldives

01 02 03 04 05
Picasso Long-Nose Oriental Yellow Sea
Triggerfish Filefish Sweetlip Margin Snake
Triggerfish

Noku Maldives
Kuda Funafaru, Noonu Atoll, Republic of Maldives. Tel: +960 656 1010. Email: [email protected]. www.nokuhotels.com/maldives

96 epicureasia.com
epicureasia.com 97
 Plan your trip
Upon arriving at Velana International Airport
on the island of Malé, you'll be greeted by a
representative from Noku Maldives. The friendly
staff will escort you to the ferry or seaplane
(Trans Maldivian Airways) terminal. Depending
on the volatility in the weather, you could be
taking either transport or a combination of both
to reach the resort.

Maldives is hot and sunny all year round, with

average temperatures of 23°C to 31°C. The best
time to visit is between November and April;
the other months are low-season periods due to
monsoons and the high tides.

If you are looking for a local photographer to

capture the best moments of your wedding,
honeymoon or birthday, try Asad’s Photography
(@asad.photo on Instagram). Rates from
US$1,500. www.asad.photo

Wifi connection in Noku Maldives is a bit spotty,

so it’s better to purchase a local SIM card from
the airport before boarding the seaplane or
speed boat.

Maldives is a Muslim country, but the Sharia law

is not practiced in most of the islands except for
Malé, the capital.

Noku Maldives
Kuda Funafaru, Noonu Atoll, Republic of Maldives. Tel: +960 656 1010. Email: [email protected]. www.nokuhotels.com/maldives

98 epicureasia.com
epicureasia.com 99
 F O O D TA L K

Please, I’m f labulous

The struggle to fight the podge is nothing new, especially to an aspiring foodie.
Jessica Chan takes on the fast-growing diet trend of intermittent fasting
and discovers some personal demons she needs to fight.

I ’ve done it all. Atkins, Cabbage Soup, Macro and the silly egg
diet; the latter had me downing up to eight tasteless, boiled
eggs a day. What these diets had in common were how
short they lasted. A bowl of spaghetti cacio e pepe with copious
shavings of Pecorino Romano (and a glass of Chianti Classico,
Then, I hit a wall. My weight remained the same or, worst,
went up. Wretchedly, my flabby self isn’t one to throw in the
towel that easily. I increased my fast to 18 or 20 hours while
squeezing the most out of my gym membership – to no avail.
I was crushed. I started scrutinising what I ate – no carbs, and
please) would always win out in the end. It comes as no surprise only white meat and greens – and skipped dinner. It moved the
that my weight yo-yoed over the years. Nothing, however, scale down a miniscule 250g, but no aspiring epicurean could
weighed me down more than my obsession to be thin. feel happy doing this. I was waving goodbye to the dreamy
Joining the publishing industry was a dream come true for burst of sweet and sour in a balsamic strawberry donut, and an
me, yet it presented an additional hurdle. The numerous work unctuous, well-marbled steak.
engagements aside, my social circle narrowed to those in the Was it worth it? I wasn’t sure. I had unwittingly hinged my
same line. I couldn’t risk whispering the word “diet” for fear happiness on the unforgiving number that appeared on my
of being sneered at. I was spreading word of how amazing a weighing scale every morning. And I couldn’t stop.
restaurant was, but, internally, I was filled with crushing guilt. It Perhaps, it was serendipity. I took a solo week-long trip to
went beyond gaining a few pounds or having to give up wearing Sydney. The city's gastronomic offerings, from its fine dining
those bodycon dresses the Kardashians can’t seem to leave the restaurants to up-and-coming bars, were enticing; reservations
house without. Adding calories in my body made me feel like I had for Matt Lindsay’s ester and Cory Campbell’s Bea Restaurant
done something wrong; something to be punished for. Ironically, were made way before my arrival.
I’d indulge even more to bury my unease. It was a vicious cycle. I I had no one to split my meals with and I couldn't ask
needed a way out. Campbell to prepare smaller portions because of my tighter
Old habits die hard. I jumped onto another fad diet. jeans. (It would been funny to watch his reaction to my request.)
Intermittent fasting sounds easy. Fast for 16 hours a day – Strangely, I felt fine. There was no obsessing over the
including eight hours of sleep – and eat as usual during the eight- calories I raked up. Sydney had a different view on food and it
hour eating window. Erin Wathen, author of Why Can’t I Stick To infected me. “How could something so delicious be bad for you,”
My Diet, suggests that its efficiency boils down to our body not chuckled an old man I happened to share a table and glasses of
having to constantly process food and using stored fats as an Pinot Noir with. “It’s all about balance. That crackling’s only bad
energy source. A thinner physique and a more focused, energetic for you if you eat too much of it.” I didn’t have to change what I
mind just by skipping breakfast? And, if Dwayne 'The Rock' ate. I had to change the way I thought about food. Rather than
Johnson swears by it, who am I to say no? deny and binge, I had to make a conscious decision to enjoy

ILLUSTRATION LIM AN-LING (WWW.MUSINGCATS.COM)

No research online, however, prepared me for the hunger what’s on my plate. It’s not about the amount, but – as cliché
pangs. Singapore’s foodie culture wasn’t helping either. I could as it sounds – the experience. I didn’t have to gorge myself to
barely get through the day without a whiff of shallot oil, splashed remember how delightful the tamari butter sauce that drowned
onto freshly steamed chee cheong fun, or the enthusiastic slurping Lindsay’s grilled king prawns were, and how he ingeniously used
of fish ball noodles, with extra lard on the side. ikura and two-year-old kefir cream for an umami bomb of an
The silver lining? It worked. Three months in, I shed an appetiser.
estimated three kilograms. Even as I was moving from one I’ll admit. My fraught relationship with food is far from over.
restaurant menu to the other, I was keeping the weight off. My I still practise intermittent fasting, albeit with a more carefree
energy levels were at an all-time high. No longer bogged down by attitude. (It's not the end of the world if I eat five minutes before
food comas, I was ready to hit the gym at 7am. I felt amazing. I've noon.) I shouldn’t let the vague idea of a perfect body stop me
regained control over my body. I thought I would be able to shed from enjoying what brings me joy. When I feel good, I’ll be sure
the remaining kilos. to look (darn) good as well. e
100 epicureasia.com
 S TO C K I S T S

Harry Winston

Blancpain Cartier HULS Gallery Jaeger-LeCoultre Officine Panerai Vacheron Constantin

#B2M-237 The Shoppes #01-20/02-10 ION Singapore #02-08 ION Orchard #01-18 ION Orchard #02-07 ION Orchard
at Marina Bay Sands Orchard 24 Duxton Hill Tel: 6509 1010 Tel: 1800 429 8361 Tel: 6509 8800
Tel: 6634 8771 Tel: 6732 0181 Tel: 6225 6331
Montblanc Omega Vintage Fine Wines
Bvlgari Delcie’s Desserts Indigo Wine Co #01-34 Ngee Ann City #01-11 ION Orchard vfwasia.com
#01-03 ION Orchard #01-83, Block 34 #04-03 See Hoy Chan Tel: 6735 5038 Tel: 6509 9712
Tel: 6735 5038 Whampoa West Hub 100c Pasir Panjang Wine List Asia Pte Ltd
Tel: 6282 2951 Road Patek Philippe #07-05 Crescent @
Tel: 9832 7404 #B2M-239 The Shoppes Kallang 47 Kallang
Harry Winston at Marina Bay Sands Pudding Road
#02-19 ION Orchard Tel: 6688 7008 Tel: 6314 9473
Tel: 6883 9509

102 epicureasia.com
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 EPICURE'S CHOICE

Arcadia Yachts, known for its eco-friendly designs, has

launched the Arcadia 105 to much fanfare. Its signature
low-consumption sailing, 00 sq ft network of solar panels
and thermal insulating glass have won the vessel the Most
Innovative Yacht award from the World Yacht Trophies right
after its debut. The smart layout continues in its interiors.
Floor-to-ceiling windows are available throughout, with
electric side windows that roll down automatically to allow
ocean air in. In particular, there’re fold-out balconies for
an impromptu al fresco dining experience. Owners can also
customise their boats (more than 50 design combinations
are available). Price upon request. arcadiayachts.it/en

The health conscious but

sweet-toothed can finally
have their cake and eat it
too. Known for her diabetic-
friendly vegan cakes, chef
Delcie Lam of Delcie’s
Desserts has launched a
new menu of vegan treats Feel and look like a queen with Duvelleroy’s latest
targeted at those on a Keto couture hand fans. The Parisian house, which has
PHOTOS ARCADIA YACHT, ALBERTO COCCHI

or Paleo diet. Low in pesky been supplying the likes of Queen Victoria and
carbohydrates and using only Eugénie de Montijo with the elegant accessory
plant-based proteins, natural since its founding in 1827, continues to excite with
sweeteners and extra virgin coconut oil, the guilt-free desserts include their latest; the Feather Balloon Bronze Hand-Fan
the “classic” Opera cake (from $95), Mixed Berry Nutty Ice Cream Cake (€2,300/S$3,588) and Triple Peacock Hand-Fan
(from $70) and even a nut-free Blueberry Cheesecake (from $78). Or jazz (€3,800). The latter is the epitome of savoir-fare
up your afternoon tea with the Low Carb Dark Chocolate Almond Bars with its combination of French molt peacock
($20/box) and Coconut Almond Cookies ($32.80/tub). #01-83, Block 34 feathers upon iridescent mother-of-pearl, sourced
Whampoa West. Tel: 6282 2951 from the Philippines. eventail-duvelleroy.fr/en/store

104 epicureasia.com