INVESTIGATION ON YARN COUNT VARIATION OF RING

FRAME.

B.Sc. Project Work

A project work submitted to the Mawlana Bhashani Science & Technology

University for the Partial Fulfillment of the Degree of Bachelor of Science in Textile
Engineering.

SUBMITTED BY

NAME OF THE STUDENTS ID NO. SESSION

SHAMS NUR TE-14033 2013-14

MD.RAJIB MOLLA TE-14039 2013-14

MD. MAHMUDUL HASAN TE-14044 2013-14

RIMON

DEPARTMENT OF TEXTILE ENGINEERING

MAWLANA BHASHANI SCIENCE & TECHNOLOGY UNIVERSITY

August, 2019

i
 DECLARATION

It is to certify that the thesis entitled “Investigation on yarn count variation of Ring
frame” submitted for the degree of B.sc Textile Engineering is the result of our own
research, except where otherwise acknowledged, and that this thesis in whole or in
part has now been submitted for an award, including a higher degree, to any other
university or institution.

Md. Rajib Molla

Signed: ---------------------- Date: 15/08/2019

Shams Nur

Signed: ---------------------- Date: 15/08/2019

Md. Mahmudul Hasan Rimon

Signed: ---------------------- Date: 15/08/2019

ii
 DECLARATION CERTIFICATE

It is to certify that this thesis entitled “Investigation on yarn count variation of Ring
frame” is an experimental research work carried out by Md Mahmudul Hasan Rimon,
Md. Rajib Molla, Shams Nur under my supervision & that they have fulfilled the
condtions laid down in the Mawlana Bhashani Science & Technology University
ordinances. This dissertation may be considered for awarding the B.Sc. in Textile
Engineering degree.

--------------------------------------

Supervisor

Md. Rokonuzzaman

Associate Professor

Department of Textile Engineering,

Mawlana Bhashani Science & Technology

University, Santosh, Tangail-1902

iii
 DEDICATION

To our beloved parents and respected teachers

iv
 ACKNOWLEGEMENT

First of all we want to thank AL-MIGHTY ALLAH who made us able to do this.

We are thankful to our parents who like to see us successful in all fields of life and
pray for us to have a happy and long live.

We would like to express my special thanks of gratitude to my teacher Md.

Rokonuzzaman and *********** (General Manager of BEXIMCO TEXTILES &
APPAREL DIVISION) who gave us the golden opportunity to do this wonderful
project on the topic “Investigation on yarn count variation of Ring frame” which
also helped using doing a lot of Research and we came to know about so many new
things. We are really thankful to them.

We want to thank administration and staff of BEXIMCO TEXTILES & APPAREL

DIVISION who were very kind and supportive to us.
Especially to
Mr. *******(General Manager of BEXIMCO TEXTILES & APPAREL
DIVISION) who helped us throughout the project and gave free hand to perform our
experiment.

We are thank full to our beloved senior teacher and again project supervisor Md.
Rokonuzzaman, the guidance of whom has been always source of light in darkness
and he was always available to us. In difficult process of compiling and writing of our
project we are very thankful to him who told us the right way of doing this.

v
 ABSTRACT

It has been widely reported that periodic faults in cotton yarn are one of the main
reasons of yarn rejection from weaving mill. This thesis has been undertaken to study
periodic faults produced in cotton ring spinning mill, its rectification and prevention
from occurring. The purpose of periodic yarn fault detection system was to identify
defective part in the machine. This system is suitable for identifying the source of
periodic fault on the machine. It was developed because spectral analysis of machines
with complex driving systems requires time and work-consuming calculations, which
make it considerably more difficult to quickly find the cause of the detected
periodicity in the stream of fibers.

The term count variation is generally used to express variation in the weight of a lea
and this is expressed as C.V.%. The number of samples and the length being
considered for count checking affects this. While assessing count variation, it is very
important to test adequate number of leas. After reeling the appropriate length of
yarn, the yarn is conditioned in the standard atmosphere for testing before it's weight
is determined.

The main purpose of manufacturing of the yarn is to convert it in to the fabric form.
Usually 90% of the yarn is converted into the fabric form for making its use and the
remaining is used as it is in the yarn form. If the yarn is used as it is then there is no
so much need of measuring its dimensions, but if it is to be converted in to the fabric
form then in order to manufacture the required fabric, the yarn parameters plays vital
role. The fabric parameters are decided from the use of that fabric for which it is to
be used, and those fabric parameters are inculcated from the yarn parameters.

vi
 TABLE OF CONTENTS

CHAPTER # 1 INTRODUCTION ........................................................................ 1

1.1 Yarn ............................................................................................................... 1
1.2 Types of Yarn ................................................................................................. 1
1.2.1 Filament Yarn .......................................................................................... 1
1.2.2 Staple or Spun Yarn ................................................................................. 1

1.3 Manufacturing Process of Staple or Spun Yarn ............................................... 2

1.4 Brief Introduction of Departments .................................................................. 3
1.4.1 Blow Room Process ................................................................................. 3
1.4.2 Carding Process ....................................................................................... 3
1.4.3 Combing process ...................................................................................... 4
1.4.4 Drawing frame Process ............................................................................ 4
1.4.5 Roving frame ........................................................................................... 5
1.4.6 Ring Spinning Process ............................................................................. 5
1.4.7 Cone Winding Process: ............................................................................ 7
1.5 Yarn Faults ..................................................................................................... 8
1.6 Yarn Faults Classification ............................................................................... 8
1.6.1 Classimat Faults ....................................................................................... 9
1.6.2 Deviation in Yarn Quality Faults .............................................................. 9
vii
 1.6.3 Periodic Yarn Faults ............................................................................... 16
CHAPTER #2 Materials and Method ................................................................. 26
2.1 Material ........................................................................................................ 26
2.2 Method ......................................................................................................... 28
2.2.1 Identify the periodic fault length by mass spectrogram ...........................28
2.2.2 Analysis the Gearing System .................................................................. 29
2.2.3 Identify Origination Point of Yarn Fault ................................................. 30
2.2.4 Rectification of Yarn Faults ................................................................... 30
CHAPTER #3 RESULTS AND DISCUSSION .................................................. 31
3.1 Investigation and rustication of periodic faults at breaker .............................. 31
3.1.1 Identify the periodic fault length by mass spectrogram ........................... 31
3.1.2 Analysis the gearing system ................................................................... 32
3.1.3 Identify Origination Point of Yarn Fault ................................................. 33

3.1.4 Rectification of Yarn Faults ................................................................... 34

3.2 Investigation and rustication of periodic faults at Finisher ............................. 35
3.2.1 Identify the periodic fault length by mass spectrogram ........................... 35
3.2.2 Analysis the Gearing System .................................................................. 36
3.2.3 Identify origination point of yarn fault .................................................... 37
3.3 Investigation and rustication of periodic faults at Simplex ............................ 39
3.3.1 Identify the periodic fault length by mass spectrogram ........................... 39
3.3.2 Analysis the Gearing System .................................................................. 40
3.3.3 Identify origination point of yarn fault .................................................... 42
3.3.4 Rectification of Yarn Faults ................................................................... 42
3.4 Investigation and rustication of periodic faults at Ring .................................. 43
3.4.1 Identify the periodic fault length by mass spectrogram ........................... 43
3.4.2 Analysis the Gearing System .................................................................. 44
3.4.3 Identify Origination Point of Yarn Fault ................................................. 45
3.4.4 Rectification of Yarn Faults ................................................................... 46
Conclusions .......................................................................................................... 47

viii
References ............................................................................................................ 47
LIST OF FIGURES

FIGURE 1.1: FLOW CHART OF SPUN YARN MANUFACTURING PROCESS ...................... 2

FIGURE 1.2: CLASSIFICATION OF YARN ..................................................................... 8
FIGURE 1.3: CLASSIFICATION MATRIX IN CLASSIMAT ................................................ 9
FIGURE 1.4: EFFECT OF COUNT VARIATION ON THE FABRIC SURFACE ..................... 10
FIGURE 1.5: HAIRINESS ON THE SURFACE OF YARN ................................................ 14
FIGURE 1.6: DIFFERENCE IN PERIODICITY ................................................................ 17
FIGURE 1.7: MOIRÉ EFFECT..................................................................................... 18
FIGURE 1.8: AMPLITUDE OF PERIODIC FAULT .......................................................... 19
FIGURE 1.9: NORMAL MASS SPECTROGRAM ............................................................ 20
FIGURE 1.10: EXAMPLE OF SPECTROGRAM OF CHIMNEY FAULT .............................. 22
FIGURE 1.11: EFFECT OF CHIMNEY FAULT ON YARN .............................................. 22
FIGURE 1.12: EXAMPLE OF SPECTROGRAM OF HILL TYPE PERIODIC FAULT ............. 23
FIGURE 1.13: SPECTROGRAM AND YARN BOARD IMAGE OF A BAD OE YARN. ......... 25
FIGURE 2.1: SEQUENCE OF MACHINES FOR YARN PREPARATION ............................. 27
FIGURE 2.2: SPECTROGRAM REPRESENTING PERIODIC FAULT .................................. 28
FIGURE 2.3: DRAFTING ELEMENTS OF A RING SPINNING MACHINE WITH GEARING
DRIVE ............................................................................................................. 29
FIGURE 3.1: GEARING DIAGRAM OF DRAWING BREAKER ........................................ 32
FIGURE 3.2: GEARING DIAGRAM OF DRAWING FINISHER ......................................... 36
FIGURE 3.3: GEARING DIAGRAM OF SIMPLEX FL-100 .............................................. 40
FIGURE 3.4: GEARING DIAGRAM OF RING FRAME RX-240 ....................................... 44

ix
 LIST OF TABLES

TABLE 2.1: THE PROPERTIES OF COTTON ............................................................... 26

TABLE 2.2: PARAMETERS USED IN THE EXPERIMENTS ............................................. 27
TABLE 3.1: PERIODIC FAULT LENGTHS OF DIFFERENT PARTS OF BREAKER .............. 33
TABLE 3.2: PERIODIC FAULT LENGTHS OF DIFFERENT PARTS OF FINISHER ............... 37
TABLE 3.3: PERIODIC FAULT LENGTHS OF DIFFERENT PARTS OF SIMPLEX FL-100 .... 41
TABLE 3.4: PERIODIC FAULT LENGTHS OF DIFFERENT PARTS OF RING FRAME RX-240
....................................................................................................................... 45

x
xi
CHAPTER ONE

INTRODUCTION

xii
 CHAPTER ONE - INTRODUCTION

INTRODUCTION:
Textile industry is one of the largest sectors in Bangladesh. It is one of the fastest growing sectors
of the country. The economy of Bangladesh now depends largely on it. Spinning is the sector to
produce yarn which is used to prepare gray fabric as well as finished fabric. In a textile spinning
factory yarn is produced according to buyer requirements. Achieving this target is depended on
several factors. The quality of yarn is determined by different aspects. Yarn count variation is
one of them. It should be maintained as much as lower variance in same count of yarn.

A yarn is defined as a product of substantial length and relatively small cross section consisting of
fiber and/or filament with or without twist.[1]

Another way, a yarn is long length continuous strand of twisted fibers of natural or synthetic
material, such as cotton, wool or nylon, used in weaving or knitting. [2]

The characteristics of spun yarn depend, in part, on the amount of twist given to the fibers
during spinning. A fairly high degree of twist produces strong yarn; a low twist produces
softer, more lustrous yarn; and a very tight twist produces crepe yarn. Yarns are also
classified by their number of parts. A single yarn is made from a group of filament or staple
fibers twisted together. Ply yarns are made by twisting two or more single yarns. Cord yarns
are made by twisting together two or more ply yarns.

13
There are two classifications of yarns that will be produced by spinning which are Filament
and Staple yarns. Filament Yarn :These yarns are made from long, and continuous strands
of fiber. Most of them from synthetic and only silk represents for natural fibers in filament.

Staple or Spun Yarn :Staple or spun yarns in other hand are made from short length of
fibers. It can be found from natural fibers or can be produced using synthetic as staple
filament yarns. As it is short length, staple fibers need to be held together with others in
order to get the long and continuous yarns.

OBJECTIVES OF THIS PROJECT:

14
OUTLINE OF THIS PROJECT:

15
 CHAPTER TWO

LITERATURE RIVEW

16
 CHAPTER TWO-LITERATURE RIVEW

REVIEW ON RECENT RESEARCH WORKS:

`

Muhammad Asad [1] Studied the Investigative Study of Periodic Yarn Faults and Its
Removal by Using Gearing Analysis. It has been widely reported that periodic faults in
cotton yarn are one of the main reasons of yarn rejection from weaving mill. This thesis has
been undertaken to study periodic faults produced in cotton ring spinning mill, its
rectification and prevention from occurring. The purpose of periodic yarn fault detection
system was to identify defective part in the machine. This system is suitable for identifying
the source of periodic fault on the machine. It was developed because spectral analysis of
machines with complex driving systems requires time and work-consuming calculations,
which make it considerably more difficult to quickly find the cause of the detected
periodicity in the stream of fibers.

Jamal Hossen [2] Studied the analysis of cotton yarn count variation by two way anova. In
a textile spinning factory yarn is produced according to buyer requirements. Achieving this
target is depended on several factors. Spinning factory runs shift wise. Count variation is
one of the major faults of spinning. Statistical approach should be established at every
sphere of the textile industry to dominate the export world.The application of statistics to
analyze is there any difference in mean number of yarn count differences due to shift and
machine number. So, two ways ANOVA may be useful to do this analysis. In this paper
count variations (yarn produced by different ring frames and different shifts) are analyzed

17
by two factorial ANOVA. This type of work can find out gigantic problems and their simple
solution.

Mohammad Mobarak Hossain [3] Studied an experimental investigation of the effects of

some process conditions on ring yarn breakage. End breakage has a great effect on ring
spinning productivity and also on yarn quality. In this study, it was aimed to analyze the
statistically significant processing parameters of ring spinning that have an effect on the
end breakage during the formation of ring spun yarn using the plackett burman
experimental design. In addition, the effects of the significant parameters on the end
breakage of ring frame were investigated. Our eight selected independent processing
conditions were mixing ratio (CIS cotton/ Shankar-6); Waste extraction% at blow room
and carding; roving twist; break draft; spacer size; top roller pressure; spindle speed and
yarn count .Two levels for each independent variable were selected to conduct the study.
For this study, 100% cotton carded yarn samples were produced by Marzoli ring spinning
frame and the results of end breakage /100 spindles/hour were calculated and analyzed for
all samples produced according to the design of experiment. As a result, the parameters
that have most significant effect on the end breakage during the formation of ring spun
yarn were obtained as waste extraction percentage at fiber preparatory stages viz. blow
room and carding, amount of roving twist, front top roller pressure and spindle speed of
ring frame. Finally, all the results of the statistical analysis were discussed and evaluated.

BACKGROUND OF THE PROJECT WORK:

18
19
 CHAPTER THREE – THEORATICAL BACKGROUND

Cotton Fiber:
Among the seed and fruit fibres, cotton has grown in stature as the most important textile
fiber in the world. In fact, cotton is the backbone and basic foundation of the world’s
textile trade and industry. Cotton is a natural vegetable fibre produced in the cotton plant
in many countries of the world even in Bangladesh also.

Fig: Cotton fiber

Properties of Cotton Fibres:
Properties of cotton fiber can be divided into two parts, one is according to physical
structure and another is using process.

A. According to physical structure:

Length of cotton fiber:

Physically the individual cotton fibres consist of a single long tubular cell. Its length is
about 1200-1500 times than its breadth. Length of cotton fibre varies from 16mm to 52
mm depending upon the type of cotton.

Indian cotton- 16-25 mm

American cotton- 20-30 mm
Sea Island- 38-52 mm
Egyptian cotton- 30-38 mm

Fineness of cotton fiber:

Longer the fibre, finer the fibre in case of cotton fibre. It is expressed in term of decitex
and it varies from 1.1 to2.3 decitex.
20
 Indian= 2.2-2.3dtex
American= 2.1-2.2 dtex
Egyptian= 1.2-1.8 dtex
Sea Island= 1.0-1.1 dtex

Fineness may be more in case of immature fibre. So it is necessary to express maturity

with fineness.

Strength and extension of cotton fiber:

Cotton fibre is fairly among natural fibres in relation to tenacity which is 3-3.5g/dtex. Its
tensile strength is between wool and silk fibre but disadvantage is low extension at break
which is 5-7%.

Elastic properties of cotton:

Recovery from deformation of cotton fibre, yarn or fabric from applied load is very low.
By applying heat it can’t be achieved. This property can be achieved by -1.Chemical
treatment to improve crease recovery, but the problem is the materials become harsher
due to chemical treatment 2. blending or mixing of cotton with elastic fibre, e.g.
polyester, blend ratio depends on the end use of the fabric. The initial modulus is fairly
high=0
5 g/dtex (wool=0.25 g/dtex)

Cross-section:
Cross-section of cotton fibre is some what ribbon like. The cell wall is rather thin and the
lumen occupies about two-third of the entire breadth and shows up very prominent in
polarized light. Fibre cross-section becomes round when mercerized.

Appearance:
Cotton fibre is fairly short, fine and creamy white color. Color of the fibre depends on soil
of growth. By adding chemicals in the soil, color of the cotton fibre may be varied.

Crimp:
Cotton fibre is more or less twisted on its longitudinal axis which cab not be seen from
out side is called convolution. The twist in the fibre does not to be continuous in one
direction i.e. if at first right direction, then left direction. This property of cotton fibre
helps in spinning.

B. According to using process:

Comfortable:
Cotton fiber has large amorphous portion and this is why the air can be in and out through
cotton fiber. So, the fabric made by cotton fiber is quite comfortable to use.

21
Soft Hand:
Cotton fiber is too much regular fiber and if properly ginned; this fibre can be the best
soft hand feeling fibre amongst the others.

Absorbent:
Cotton fiber has high absorbency power and this is why this fiber can be died properly
and without any harassment.

Good Color Retention:

If the printing is applied on cotton fiber, it seems it doesn’t spread the color outside the
design. So printing efficiency is good on cotton fibre.

Machine Washable & Dry Cleanable:

It is seen that some fibers can’t be dried or washed due to it’s sensitivity and weak
fastness properties but in case of Cotton fiber you will have large number of options to
choose. You can easily wash the cotton made fabric by machines and even you will be
able to dry this fiber by using electronic drier.

Good Strength:
If you want to seek an average strength which might be enough for you; then cotton fiber
can be your ultimate choice. The strength of cotton fiber is quite good.

Cotton Fibre Drapes Well:

The drape-ability of cotton fibre is awesome. You can use the cotton fibre made fabric in
any kind of wear which needs more flexibility and drapes.

Sewing & Handling Is Easy:

The sewing efficiency on Cotton made fabric is easier and comfortable than other fiber.
This is why the demand of cotton made fabric is higher in all over the world.

Uses of Cotton Fiber:

Cotton fiber is a versatile fibre which has wide variety of uses. But the Cotton fibre is mostly
used on the Apparel Industry to make the wearing cloth like Sweaters, Skirts, Shirts,
Swimwear, Kids wear, Blouses, Pants, Hosiery and to make other type of dresses.

Technical Properties of Cotton Fiber

The following properties of cotton fibers are considered for cotton spinning :-

1. Fiber length :
The average length of spinnable fibre is called staple length. Staple length is one of the
most important fibre characteristics. The quality, count, strength etc. depend on the staple
length of fibre.
22
Staple length - ↑.............→......... Yarn quality- ↑

Fiber length influence :

Spinning limit,
Yarn strength,
Yarn evenness,
Handle of the product,
Luster of the product,
Yarn hairiness,
Productivity.

The following length groupings are currently used in stating the trade staple:

Average : (25-35) mm
Short length : 1.010" or less.
Medium length : 1.03" to 1.13"
Long length : 1.16" to 1.6"
Extra long length : 1.6" to above

2. Fiber fineness :
Fineness is one of the most important parameter determining the yarn quality
characteristics. Fibre fineness influences the number of fibres in the cross section of yarn.

Thirty fibers are needed at the minimum in the yarn cross section but there are usually
over 100. One hundred is approximately the lower limit for almost all new spinning
process. This indicates that fineness will become more important.
Fiber influence primarily :

Spgn limit,
Yarn strength,
Yarn evenness,
Drape of the fabric product,
Handle,
Luster,
Yarn fullness,
Productivity.

Evenness is measured in Micronaire value (MIC).

Rating of MIC value –

MIC value ----------------->Fineness

23
 Up to 3.1 ------------very fine
3.1 to 3.9 ------------fine
4.0 to 4.9 ------------medium
5.0 to 5.9 ------------slightly coarse
5.9 to above ---------coarse.

3. Maturity :
The maturity of cotton is defined in terms of the development of cell wall. A fully mature
fiber has a well developed thick cell wall. On the other hand, an immature fibre has a very
thin cell. The fibre is to be considered as mature fibre when the cell wall of the moisture-
swollen fibre represents 50-80% of the round cross section, as immature when it
represents 30-45% and as dead when it represents less than 25%.
Cotton fiber structure
Immature fiber leads to :

Nepping,
Loss of yarn strength,
Varying dye ability,
High proportion of short fibres,
Processing difficulties mainly at the card

Mature fibre → Dye absorb↑ -

Immature fibre → Dye absorb ↓.

4. Fiber Strength :
Toughness of fibre has a direct effect on yarn & fabric strength.

Fibre strength - ↑→ Yarn & Fabric strength.↑ - -

Very weak cottons tend to rupture during processing both in blow room & carding,
creating short fibres & consequently deteriorate yarn strength & uniformity.

The following scale of value is used :

Below to 70% → weak,

70% to 74% → fairly strong,
75% to 80% → medium strong,
81% to 86% → strong,
87% to 92% → very strong,
93% & above → excellent.

5. Fiber cleanness :

24
In addition to usable fibers, cotton stock contain foreign matter or trash or foreign
material of various kinds :-

Vegetable matter :

Husk portions
Seed fragments
Stem fragments
Wood fragments.

Mineral material :

Earth
Sand, dust, coal.

Others :

Metal fragments
Cloth fragments
Packing materials.

Foreign matter causes :

Drafting disturbance,
Yarn breakage,
Filling up of card clothing,
Contaminated yarn.

Accepted the range of foreign matters to the Cotton Bale –

Up to 1.2% → very clean

1.2% to 2.0% → clean
2.0% to 4.0% → medium
4.0% to 7.0% → dirty
7.0% & above → very dirty.

6. Colour :
Colour is particularly important as a measure on how well a yarn or fabric will dye or
bleach. Instrumental techniques for determining the colour of the sample have only now
reached the Industry, HVI measurement of colour provides reasonably accurate results of
average reflectance & yellowness in a sample.

25
1.5 Yarn Faults
Yarn faults may be defined as yarn irregularities that can lead to difficulties in subsequent
production stages, or to defects in fabric.

1.6 Yarn Faults Classification

1.6.2 Deviation in Yarn Quality Faults

• COUNT CV
• IRREGULARITY
• HARINESS
• IMPERFECTIONS
• STRENGTH

26
1.6.2.1 Count Variation
This is usually expressed in terms of CV between hank length such as 100 or 50 meter. In
case of drawn and spun yarns, long term irregularity arises from variation either between
groups, between bobbins or within bobbins. Between groups variation represents the
difference between spinning frames, frame sides and times of spinning, whereas
between[11][12]

Figure 1.4: Effect Of Count Variation On The Fabric Surface

(Combed cotton 100%, Nec 30, Nm 50, 20 Tex)

1.6.2.1.1 Within Bobbins Count Variation

• High card sliver & comber sliver U%

• High tension draft or improper coils in bobbins variations
• Irregular drafting &n stretching on speed frame.
• Retching in roving
• Use of separator plates at high spindle speeds.
• Excessive pinion changes in ring spinning
• Defective draw frame is a single major cause for with in bobbins variation, such as
excessive creel or web tension, roller slippage in drawing and adverse humidity conditions
in hair the draw frame drafting leading to within bobbins variations.

27
 • Low humidity

1.6.2.1.2 Between Bobbin Count Variation

• Variation in average lap weight over long intervals (e.g. half shift) including
allowance to variation in humidity
• High cm to cm variation in lap
• Excessive variation in tuft size
• Draft to waste difference between groups of cads or at combers.
• Hank differences between D.F slivers
• Stretch in the D.F slivers fed to roving
• Use of one passage post comber D.F
• Row to row differences in hank roving.
• Draft differences between roving frame
• Marked changes in hank roving over a roving frame bobbins caused by irregular
bobbins speed control
• Draft differences between ring frame
• Frequent changes of pinion in drawing and ring spinning
• Creel draft variation and bobbin holders clogging with waste
• Variation in top roller pressure
• Variation in bare bobbins diameter
• Spindle variation in ring finish
• High variation in RH% age

At several stages in spinning process stretch take place and become a source of great hidden
menace as it not only undesirable variation (between bobbins and within bobbins) but also
results in high end breakages excessive wastes and lower the quality of end product.

1.6.2.2.2 Coefficient Of Variation C.V. %

The standard deviation of the linear densities over which unevenness is measured expressed
as a percentage of the average linear density for the total length within which unevenness
is measured. C.V of irregularity can be measure using following parameters;[14][15]
28
CVm: Coefficient of variation of mass with a cut length of approximately 1 cm. This is the
CV most often quoted in yarn specification and commercial transactions.

CVm (1m): Coefficient of variation of mass with a cut length of 1 m, simulating the CV
you would have got from cutting the yarn into 1 m sections and weighing those sections.
The same applies to CVm (10m) and CVm (100m). It should be noted that as the cut length
increases, the irregularity reduces.

Yarn Count:
Count is a numerical value, which express the coarseness or fineness (diameter) of the yarn and
also indicate the relationship between length and weight(the mass per unit length or the length
per unit mass)of that yarn. Therefore, the concept of yarn count has been introduced which
specifies a certain ratio of length to weight.

The fineness of the yarn is usually expressed in terms of its linear density or count. There are a
number of systems and units for expressing yarn fineness. But they are classified as follows .

Yarn Count Variation:

The term count variation is generally used to express variation in the weight of a lea and this is
expressed as C.V.%. The number of samples and the length being considered for count checking
affects this. While assessing count variation, it is very important to test adequate number of leas.
After reeling the appropriate length of yarn, the yarn is conditioned in the standard atmosphere
for testing before it's weight is determined.

29
Importance of yarn count:
The main purpose of manufacturing of the yarn is to convert it in to the fabric form. Usually 90%
of the yarn is converted into the fabric form for making its use and the remaining is used as it is in
the yarn form. If the yarn is used as it is then there is no so much need of measuring its dimensions,
but if it is to be converted in to the fabric form then in order to manufacture the required fabric,
the yarn parameters plays vital role. The fabric parameters are decided from the use of that fabric
for which it is to be used, and those fabric parameters are inculcated from the yarn parameters.

The fabric construction is varied with respect to its end use. The main important fabric factors
deciding its construction are, yarn spacing and yarn thickness. Out of this the yarn spacing can be
measured by counting the number of yarns per inch with use of magnifying glass. The yarn
thickness i.e. yarn diameter (assuming that the yarn is almost circular in cross section) is not an
easy process even by any of the means due to the following problems.

yarn numbering
Yarn numbers is measures of the coarseness or fineness of a yarn indicating the length per unit
mass or mass per unit length and the method of calculation of count number is called as yarn
numbering system.

Importance of yarn numbering system

The fineness of yarn cannot be expressed easily in terms of diameter as in the case of wires and
cords we measure its diameter by using instrument such as micrometer or calipers. But in case of
yarn we cannot measure its diameter by using micrometer and caliper because most of the yarns
are relatively soft and compressible, also the cross section of the spun yarn is not fully circular and
it contains variations in thickness because presence of thick and thin places in the yarn and the
continuous filament yarns also suffer from this drawback. Therefore yarn numbering systems like
special methods are used to measure the fineness and coarseness of yarn.

Types of yarn numbering system

1. Direct yarn numbering system
2. Indirect yarn numbering system

1. DIRECT YARN NUMBERING SYSTEM [MASS/UNIT LENGTH]:

Direct yarn numbering system also known as mass per unit length of yarn, hence in this system
higher the yarn number or count indicates the coarser or thicker the yarn size and smaller the yarn
number or count indicates the finer or lighter the yarn size. This system is generally used for Tex
and Denier. In direct yarn numbering system the count directly express the size of the yarn and a
coarser yarn will have a higher number while a finer yarn will have a lower number. The resultant
count of the folded yarn can be easy to calculate even component threads are of different counts.
Cloth setting are comparative difficult in this system. And we cannot easily calculate the weight
of the fabric and Calculation of the amount of twist in the yarn.

30
The following formula is used to calculate the direct yarn count:

Wxl
N = --------
L

Where,

N = Yarn count or number system

W = Weight of the sample at the official regain in the units of the system
L = Length of the sample
L = Units of length of sample

Fig: Different yarn number system

1. Tex (Universal yarn numbering system):
Tex system of yarn numbering system is called as universal yarn numbering system. This system
comes under direct yarn numbering system and it is introduced by International standard
organization (ISO) and textile scientists of various organization, manufactures and technologists.
This system is applicable to yarn made from both natural fibers as well as synthetic fibers. Hence
this system is useful for replacing the several different systems which are being used in the various
sectors of the textile industry all over the world. Tex system can be used from fiber to yarn process.
For fineness of cord, wire, ropes and sliver etc. are expressed in terms of kilotex that is the weight
of the material in kg in one km length but for the fineness of fiber it can be expressed in terms of
millitex that is weight of fiber in mg (milligrams) in one km (kilometer) length. The advantages
and drawbacks of direct system of yarn numbering are also applicable to universal system.

In shortly,
Tex is defined as the weight of yarn in grams per 1000 meter of yarns or 1 km length.

31
i.e., wt. in grams per 1000 meters of yarn.

1000 x Weight in gram’s

Tex = -------------------------------
Length in meter’s

2. Denier:
In the direct denier system, the yarn count number indicates the weight in grams of 9000 meters
of yarn.

9000 x Weight in grams

Denier = ------------------------------------
Length in meter

3. Spyndle Count:
This system is generally used for jute, hemp or dry spun-linen yarn. Spyndle count is defined as
weight in pounds per one spindle of 14400 yards.

Weight in pound x 14400

Spyndle = ---------------------------------
Length in yards

4. Grex Count:
It is defined as weight in grams of 10000 meters of yarn.

Weight in gram’s x 10000

Grex count = ----------------------------------------
Length in meter’s

INDIRECT YARN NUMBERING SYSTEM [LENGTH/UNIT MASS]:

Indirect yarn numbering system also known as length per unit mass of yarn, Hence in this system
higher the yarn number or count indicates the finer or lighter the yarn size and smaller the yarn
number or count indicates the coarser or thicker the yarn size. This system is generally used for
English cotton count, Worsted count, Linen count, Woolen count, French cotton count and
metric count. As compared to direct yarn numbering system this system is very easy to calculate
weight of the fabric, when the count of warp and weft are expressed in this system. The amount
of twist in the yarn and cloth setting (threads per inch) are directly proportionally to the square
root of yarn count and very difficult to calculate. The count does not express the size of the yarn
directly. And a coarser or bulky yarn will have a small count number than a finer or less bulky
yarn. And it is very difficult to calculate the resultant count of the folded yarn in this system,
when the component threads are different counts.

32
The following formula is used to calculate the indirect yarn count:

N = (L × w)/ W ×l

Where,
N = Yarn count or number system
W = Weight of the sample at the official regain in the units of the system
L = Length of the sample
L = Units of length of sample
W = Units of weight of sample

Numbering system Units of length(l) Units of weight(W)

English cotton count (Ne) 840 yards 1 pound (lb.)
Metric count (Nm) 1000 meters / 1km 1 kg
Woolen count (YSM) 256 yards 1 pound (lb.)
Worsted count (Nek) 560 yards 1 pound (lb.)
Linen count (NeL) 300 yards 1 pound (lb.)
French cotton count 1000 meters 500 grams

Types of yarn count :

 Normal count
 Conditional count
 Average count

Ring Spinning Machine:

33
The ring spinning machine was first invented in 1828 by the American Thorp. In 1830, another American
scientist, Jenk, contributed the traveler rotating on the ring. There have been many development has done
in ring spinning machine for the last years but the basic concept remained unchanged.

Advantage of Ring Spinning System:

1. Any type of material (fibre) can be spun
2. Wide range of count can be processed
3. It delivers a yarn with optimum characteristics.
4. Idealized twisting system
5. It is uncomplicated and easy to operate
6. Higher yarn strength can be achieved
Disadvantages of Ring Spinning System:
1. Low production
2. Machine generates more heat
Limitations:
In ring spinning machine twisting and winding are done simultaneously. That’s why the power
consumption is higher.

Major manufacturer of ring frame:

1. Lakshmi Machinery Works Limited, India
2. Toyoda Textile Machinery , Japan
3. Rieter Machine Works Limited, Switzerland
4. Suessen Gmbh, Germany
5. China Textile Machinery Group co. Limited, china
Operations involved in ring frame:
1. Creeling
2. Drafting
3. Twisting
4. Winding
5. Building
6. Doffing

34
Function of ring frame:
1. Draft the roving until the required fineness is achieved
2. Twist the drafted strand to form yarn of required count and strength
3. Winding the twisted yarn on to the bobbin for suitable storage, transportation and further
processing.
Drafting system:
A) Regular drafting without apron-
1. Conventional 3 over 3 drafting system
2. Improved drafting system
B) Apron drafting
1. Single Apron- a. Saco Lowel Drafting, b. Improved system
2. Double apron- a. Casablanca’s drafting system, b. SKF drafting system
Some important models of SKF drafting system:
 SKF PK-211
 SKF PK-220
 SKF PK-225
 SKF PK-235
 SKF PK-255
 SKF PK-265
 SKF PK-2025
Types of drafting system:
There are commonly two types of drafting system are used in ring frame:
1. Spring loaded drafting system or Pendulum arm. example: SKF PK 2025 or Texparts 2035
2. Pneumatic drafting system: SKF PK 3025

Various components of Ring Frame

Thread guide:
It is a yarn guide made by bending a wire named snail wire. Snail wire may be different in types like p-
shaped wire

Functions:
1. Its main function is to guide the yarn thus maintain the security of the yarn.

35
 2. It prevents yarn collision with adjacent yarns.
3. It surface should be smooth to prevent rubbing of yarn. Rubbing creates yarn hairiness.
Spindle:
The spindle is the main part of a ring frame which helps in twisting, winding simultaneously. Sometimes,
spindle referred as ‘heart of spinning’. It hold the bobbin, somewhat loosely but tight enough to prevent
slippage.

Spindle
Functions of spindle:
1. Twisting and winding is performed by spindle.
2. It holds the bobbin.
3. The capacity of ring frame is mainly determine by the number of spindle.
Different parts of spindle:
The parts of spindle are given below:-
 Spindle blade
 Wharve
 Bolster
 Lock
 Bearing
 Bolster cage
The last three parts help the spindle to fix at the right place and work properly.

Ring:
The ring are made of low carbon steel i.e. soft steel or ceramic in the form of a bar which modeled into
ring shaped either by bending and welding or by pressing by means of dies and then the stock is given the
36
desired projection term as ring flange.

Function:
There are some important functions of ring. These are given below:-
1. Ring guides the circular run of the traveler.
2. It also helps in twisting by means of running of the traveler.
3. It also acts as a track of traveler.

Figure: Ring cups

Classification of ring:
A) According to origin or element:- i. Metallic ring, ii. Ceramic ring
B) According to number of flange:- i. Single flange ring, ii. Double flange ring

Relation between bobbin dia and Ring dia:

B= 0.39R
Where B= Bear bobbin dia and R= Ring dia.

Flange:
The path of traveler on the ring is called flange. It may be single or double.

Flange width:
The term flange width express the difference the outer diameter and inner diameter of a ring. Flange
width is expressed in flange no.

Flange width= (Flange no. + 3)/32 inch

Flange no. Flange width (mm)

1 3.2

1.5 3.6

2 4

Traveler:
Traveler is the most tinny and simple mechanical element in ring frame which carries the most important
37
function like simultaneous twisting, winding, thread guide etc.

Function of traveller:
Traveler does some important in ring frame. These are mentioned below:-
1. Twisting on the drafted strand of fibre.
2. Winding of the yarn on the bobbin.
3. Maintain winding tension of the yarn by the frictional resistance between the ring and the
traveler.
4. It acts as a guide for yarn on the way to be wound on the bobbin.

Figure: Travelers
Traveler speed and its effects:
Traveller does not have a drive of its own. It drags along behind the spindle. Since the spindle rotates at a
high speed, a high contact pressure is generated between the ring and traveler during winding, mainly due
to centrifugal force. The pressure introduces strong frictional forces which in turn lead to significant
generation of heat. It is the important problem of ring/traveler.

The front roller delivers a certain length of yarn. That’s why length wound up must corresponds to the
difference in peripheral speed of traveler and spindle. The speed difference is due to lagging of the
traveler relative to the spindle.

Parts of traveller:
There are three parts of a traveller. They are given below:-
 Bow
 Horn
 Flange
Types of traveller:
Travelers can be classified into following two ways:-

A) According to shape:-
 C – traveller
38
  Elliptical traveller
B) According to the X-section of wire:
 Round traveller
 Flat traveller
 Semi-circular traveller
Specification of traveller:
A ring traveler is specified by the followings-
1. Traveller no.: 1, 2, 3, 1/0, 2/0, 3/0 etc.
2. Cross section of the wire and shape
3. Flange no.
4. Surface finish- Stainless steel made,Carbon finish,Nicle finish etc.
5. Type of materials etc.
Notation of traveller:
A traveller can be notified as follows-
 3/0 MS/hF
 5/0 MS/FF
 7/0 HI-NI/ hf
Here,
3/0- Traveller number
MS- Mild steel
Hf- Half flange
FF- Full flange
HI-NI- High Nicle Finish
Traveller Number or size of traveller:
Here, if the weight of 10 traveller is 10 grains then the number of those traveller is 1 and so on.

Recommended traveler no. for various yarn counts:

Count (Ne) Traveller No.

16 2
20 1-2/0

30 3/0-4/0

40 6/0-8/0
50 10/0-12/0

39
 60 13/0-15/0

80 16/0-19/0

100 19/0-20/0

Force acting on traveler:

1. Traveller weight
2. Frictional force between ring and traveler
3. Centrifugal force
4. Balloon tension
5. Winding tension
Apron:
Rubber Apron is made of synthetic rubber material, with excellent wear-resistance/oil-resistance/ageing-
resistance and smooth surface. In addition, it is of good stability, flexibility & wide application. It is used
in drafting system of ring frame and some other modern drafting system in spinning machine. It contains
cradle for guiding its direction of length.

Figure: Rubber apron

Rubber cot:
It is one type of synthetic rubber material which is used in top rollers of ring frame drafting system. The
rubber cots also used on drawing frames, combing machines & spinning frames. Its hardness can be
varied. The hardness of rubber cots is expressed by degree. Generally harder cots are used in the back
rollers and softer rollers are used in front rollers.

Hardness ranges are given below-

 Soft: 60° to 70° Shore
 Medium: 70° to 90° shore
 Hard: above 90° shore

40
80° to 85° shore are mostly used at the back roller and 63° to 65° shore at front roller.

Figure: Rubber cots

Recent development of ring frame:
1. Improved drafting system
2. Higher no. of spindle (up to 1008)
3. Auto doffing
4. Auto piecing
5. Higher draft range (more than 100)
6. Grooved T-in cylinder
7. Inverter motor device
8. Gearing in oil bath
9. Tangential belt drive
10. Data collection system (Ring Data)
11. Roving stop motion etc.

Different types of wastages of spinning mill:

There are various types of wastages which are found in spinning mill during the processing of raw cotton.
About 12-13% wastages are produced for card process and 25-30% wastage are produced for combed
process. The names of different wastages are given below:
1. Blow room (waste= 3%) i. Dropings-2 ii. Lap waste etc.
2. Carding (waste= 4%) i. Dropings-1 ii. Sliver waste iii. Vacuum waste
3. Draw frame (waste= 0.5%)i. sliver waste
4. Lap former (waste=0.5%) i. lap waste ii. Sliver waste iii. Vacuum waste
41
 5. Comber (waste= 12-18%) i. Noils ii. lap waste iii. Sliver waste
6. Simplex (waste= 0.5%) i. Roving waste ii. Sliver waste
7. Ring Frame (waste= 2-3%) i. Pneumafil ii. Hard waste ii. Sweeping iv. Vacuum waste
8. Winding section(waste=1%) i. Hard waste

Advancement in Ring Spinning

Ring spinning:
Spinning process is done by machine called ring frame. It converts the bobbin into a yarn. The bobbin
taken from the previous process fly frame is mounted on ring frame either automatically or manually.
The ring frame stretches the material using a drafting 2s and 140s. Ring yarn is finer and more hairy when
compared to open end.

Fig: Modern ring frame

Need of advancement:
42
  In ring spinning a large number of changes had occurred for continuous improvement in
production, quality and efficiency…
 Air suction.
 Air pipes.
 Additional air conditioning requirements.
Advantages:
 Production of high strength yarns.
 Spinning of fine yarn count.
 Proper for special yarns.
 It is flexible as regards quantities (blend & lot size)
 The speeds in drawing section are best controlled, yarn evenness is excellent. But if short fibers
are too much, yarn unevenness occurs.
 Fine yarns can be produced as compared to open-end spinning system
Disadvantages:
1. Process stages are more numerous. Roving stages exists as an extra process compared to other
systems.
2. The high speed of the traveler damages the fibers.
3. Capacity of the cops is limited.
4. Energy cost is very high.
5. Low production rate.
Zones in Ring Frame:
There are totally four types of zones.
1. Creel zone
2. Drafting zone
3. Twisting zone
4. Winding zone
Automated drafting system:
 All rollers driven by individual motors, controlled by individual drives.
 Possible to alter draft and twist from the key pad. Fine turning of twist & draft adjustments
possible.

43
  Interfacing & drive communication through and other types of protocols make controls simple
and very accurate.
Automatic doffing:
 Used to make the doffing function automated
 It has the main components
 Doffing Beam unit
 Servo Disc Belt
 ROBO DOFF unit

Fig: Full cops are gripped by the doffing unit and come down

44
 CHAPTER FOUR

45

MATERIALS & METHODS

 CHAPTER FOUR- MATERIALS & METHODS

MATERIALS: Raw cotton

The important physical and chemical properties of cotton are given below –
Physical Properties:
- Tenacity – The strength of cotton fibre is attributed to the good alignment of its long polymers i.e. its
polymer system is about 70% crystalline, due to the countless continuous hydrogen bond formations
between adjacent polymers, and the spiraling fibrils in the primary and secondary cell walls. It is one of
the few fibres which gains strength when wet. This occurs due to the improved alignment of polymers and
increase in hydrogen bond numbers.
- Elasticity – Relatively it is elastic due to its crystalline polymer system and for this cause cotton
textiles wrinkle and crease readily.

46
- Hydroscopic Nature – The cotton fibre is because of absorbent, owing to the countless polar OH
groups. In its polymers, these attract water molecules which are also polar. The hydroscopic nature
ordinarily prohibits cotton textile materials from developing static electricity. The polarity of the water
molecules attracted to the hydroxyl groups on the polymers distribute any static change which might
develop.
- Thermal properties – Cotton is not thermoplastic and hence excessive application of heat energy
reasons the cotton fibre to char and bum, without prior melting.
- Luster – Lintreated cotton has no pronounced luster. Therefore in order to make it lustrous they need
to be mercerized.

Chemical Properties
- Effects of alkalis – These fibres are resistant to alkalis and are comparatively unaffected by normal
laundering. The resistance is because of the lack of attraction between the cotton polymers and alkalis.
- Effect of Acids – Cotton fibres are weakened and destroyed by acids. Acids hydrolyze the cotton
polymer at the glycosidic oxygen atom which connects the two glucose units to form the cellobiose unit.
Mineral acids being stronger than organic acids will hydrolyse the cotton polymer more quickly.
- Effect of Bleaches – The most common bleaches used on cotton textile materials are sodium
hypochlorite and sodium perborate. They are: oxidizing bleaches and bleach because of the oxygen
liberated from them.
- Effect of Sunlight and weather – The ultra-violet rays of sunlight provide photo chemical energy
whilst the infra-red rays provide heat energy essential to degrade the cotton polymers in the pressure of
atmospheric oxygen, moisture and air pollutants. The breakdown of polymers takes place through diverse
hydrolysis reactions. The beginning degradation is noticed as a slight fibre discoloration. Fading of
colored cotton textile is partially because the breakdown of the dye molecules in the fibre’s polymer
system.
- Color Fastness – Cotton is easy to dye and print. The classes of dye which may be used to color
cotton are azoic, direct, reactive, sulphur and vat dyes. The polar polymer system easily attracts any polar
dye molecules into the polar system. Therefore, dye molecules which can be dispersed in water will be
absorbed by the polymer system of cotton.
However, the dye molecules can enter solely the amorphous regions of the polymer system of cotton. The
small inter polymer spaces in the crystalline regions of the polymer system prohibit the entry of the
crystalline molecules.
- Mildew – Cotton is damaged by fungi. Heat and dampness support the growth of mildew. The fungi
produce a chemical compound which has the power of changing cellulose to glucose. The fungi feed on
the molecules of sugar: Cotton treated with acrylo nitrite is resistant to mildew.
- Insects – Moths and beetles do not change cotton. Silver fish will eat cotton cellulose especially if
heavily starched.

47
1.3 Manufacturing Process of Staple or Spun Yarn
Staple yarn manufacturing is a sequence of processes that convert raw cotton fibres into
yarn suitable for use in various end-products. A number of processes are required to obtain
the clean, strong, uniform yarns required in modern textile markets. Beginning with a dense
package of tangled fibres (cotton bale) containing varying amounts of non-lint materials
and unusable fibre (foreign matter, plant trash, motes and so on), continuous operations of
opening, blending, mixing, cleaning, carding, drawing, roving and spinning are performed
to transform the cotton fibres into yarn.[3]

48
 Figure 1.1: Flow Chart of Spun Yarn Manufacturing Process

1.4 Brief Introduction of Departments

1.4.1 Blow Room Process

Blow room is the initial stage in spinning process. The name blow room is given because
of the “air flow” And all process is done in blow room because of air flow. Blow room is
49
consisting of different machines to carry out the objectives of blow room. In blow room the
tuft size of cotton becomes smaller and smaller due to that cleaning also done. Mixing of
cotton is done separately as well as in blow room. Compressed layer of bale is also open in
blow room with the help of machine. Other contamination in the cotton such as leaf,
stone, iron particles, jute, poly propylene, colored fibers, feather and other foreign
material also remove from cotton by opening and beating. Then open material feed to the
next carding process uniformly.[4]

1.4.2 Carding Process

Carding process is very important role in spinning mill. It helps us both way to open the
tuft into a single fiber and to remove the impurities and naps. Textile experts are convinced
for the accuracy of following statement.

“The card is the heart of spinning mill” and “well carded is well spun” (Vijykumar, 2007) [5]

Card feeding is done by two ways. One is manually and other is through chute feed system.
In manual case the lap which is produced in blow room and it is feed to the card. In chute
feed the material is feed through air flow system to card machine. It is important to
say that lower the feed variation better is the carding quality. Lower the feed variation then
draft variation will also be less. Then yarn quality will be consistent. If the card is having
auto leveler then nominal draft should be selected properly. In some circumstances card
also act as a cleaner and remove a certain amount of short fiber. Approximately 90%
cleaning efficiency is achieved with the help of carding machine.[6]
1.4.3 Combing process
For getting high quality of yarn, one extra process is introduced which is called combing process.

Combing is an operation in which dirt and short fibers are removed from sliver lap by
following ways. In a specially designed jaws, a narrow lap of fiber is firmly gripped
across its width. Closely spaced needles are passed through the fiber projecting from jaws.
Short fiber which we remove is called comber noil. The comber noil can be recycled in
the production of carded yarn. Yarn which is get from comber sliver is called comber
yarn. Carded sliver are combine into comber lap in a single continuous process stage. Flat
sheet of fiber which is get from comber lap is fed into the comber in an intermediate.

There are different ways by which value of combing is used in the manufacturing of cotton.
By spinning point of view combing process makes more uniformity in the yarn. Strength of
yarn is also high because in combing process short fiber are removed and only fiber
having good strength remains. So it play very important role for increasing the yarn
strength. Because of straightened condition of fibers combing makes possible spinning
smoother and more lustrous yarn. In combing process length of fiber are strong so
it need less twist produced then carded yarn. [7]

50
1.4.4 Drawing frame Process
Draw frame is simple and cheap machine. In spinning regarding to quality point of view it
play very important role .If its setting is not done properly then it affects yarn strength and
elongation. For improving quality draw frame is final process in the spinning mill. It effects
on quality especially on evenness of sliver. In the spinning process there are chances of
elimination of errors in draw frame machine. Draw frame play very important role for the
quality of yarn. Without it participation quality can never be improved.[8]Drafting
arrangement is the heart of the draw frame. Drafting arrangement should be simple, stable
design, should have ability to produce high quality product. It should have high fiber
control.
Auto leveler is also used to adjust and to improve the linear density of the sliver.
Without auto leveler it is very difficult to improve the quality of the draw frame sliver.

1.4.5 Roving frame

It is an intermediate process in which fibers are converted into low twist lea called roving.
The sliver which is taken from draw frame is thicker so it is not suitable for manufacturing
of yarn. [7]

Its purpose is to prepare input package for next process. This package is to prepare on a
small compact package called bobbins. Roving machine is complicated, liable to fault,
causes defect adds to the production costs and deliver the product. In this winding
operation that makes us roving frame complex. There are two main basic reasons for using
roving frame. The roving sliver is thick and untwisted. Because of it hairiness and fly is
created. So draft is needed to reduce the linear density of sliver. The ring drafting
arrangement is not capable that it may process the roving sliver to make the yarn.

Draw frame can represent the worst conceivable mode of transport and presentation of feed
material to the ring spinning frame.

1.4.6 Ring Spinning Process

Ring Spinning machine is used in textile industry to twist the staple fibers into a yarn and
wind on a bobbin for the winding section for more precise the yarn to minimize the
defects of end yarn. Ring machine is very important due to yarn quality. Ring Spinning is
the most costly step to convert fibers into yarn and approximately 85% yarn produced
in ring spinning frame all over the world. It is made to draft the roving into a desired count
and impart the desired twist to produce the strength in the yarn. If twist is increased, yarn
strength is also increased at optimum limit.[2]

The input of ring frame is roving which comes from roving section this is final stage where
yarn is make. Here in this section need more drafting to reduce the liner density of roving

51
and more twist to make a yarn. The output of ring frame is yarn which is wound on a ring
bobbin which is used for next winding process.
1.4.6.1 Function of Ring Process
There is a different function of Ring Spinning process in which roving is converted
into yarn through passing different zone like drafting, twisting and winding zone.
There are three important zone of Ring processes below here. [9]

• Drafting Zone
• Twisting Zone
• Winding Zone

1.4.6.1.1 Drafting Zone

Drafting is the first zone of ring process and is very important part of machine and mostly
effects on the evenness and strength of yarn. In quality point of view, there are many points
which are related to the quality of drafting system.

• Type of the draft

• Selection of drafting parts like apron, rubber cots and spacer.
• Range of draft
• Draft designing and setting
• Service and maintenance
• Type of perforated drum

1.4.6.1.2 Twisting Zone

It is the second zone and is also very important part of Ring machine in which the
strands of fiber are converted into a yarn by the twist inserted. The strength of yarn is
depend upon the amount of twist which are given in twisting zone and it is most important
than other zone due to required strength of yarn. There are some very important points
related to quality point of view in twisting zone are;

• Material and type of traveler

• Wear resistance
• Lubrication of fiber

52
 • Smooth running
• Spindle and Traveler Speed
1.4.6.1.3 Winding Zone

This is the last section of ring machine in which yarn is wound on the plastic bobbin by the
up and down movement of ring rail which is linked to a small motor. It is also very
important because the setting of ring rail makes coils of yarn on bobbin in such a way that
the Z-twist is not open during winding process. Some points are very important during
winding process. That’s are;

• Ring rail speed setting

• Bobbin material
• No. of coils per inch

1.4.6.2 Ring Spinning Effects on Quality

Ring spinning is the first stage of post spinning in which yarn produced from the
roving installed on the hanger on the ring machine. Ring process is the heart of textile plant
and there is lot of factors effect on the yarn quality. Speed of machine makes a major
role on the yarn quality, as the speed increase of ring machine, the imperfection (Neps
200%, Thick +50, Thin -50) of yarn increase. Hairiness is also affected in ring production
process and mainly produced by the movement of burnt traveler and high speed of
machine.CV of count is also very important and ring spinning process is the last stage of
process where we can reduce the CV of yarn count. Imperfection of yarn count in quality
point of view is so important that every customer required this quality standard, that
imperfection should be minimum as possible. [9]

1.4.7 Cone Winding Process:

It is the last section of yarn manufacturing process where auto cone machines are installed
and take an input material from ring spinning section as a yarn bobbin and give a yarn on
paper cone after passing detecting instrument as an output. In winding section, there are lot
of heads in auto cone machines use to wound the yarn from ring bobbin yarn to paper cone
yarn. Now days, there are some companies to manufacturing these machines and Savio
company is one of them which produce a fully automatic machine for spinning industries.
In quality point of view, it is a very good machine and has also very low maintenance cost.
Winding department plays an important role in the production and quality of yarn
and causes direct effect on them. The yarn which made in ring section is not finish yarn and
can’t sell to customer. After making the yarn in ring process, auto cone section made
it more even yarn by passing through the optical sensor and capacitor sensor which is
installed in different heads of machine.

53
The yarn which is obtained from winding section is able to sell the customers.

Measurement of Yarn Counting System :

1. Wrap reel and balance method
2. Beasley's yarn balance
3. Knowles balance
4. Quadrant balance method
5. Sliver, roving count by measuring drum
6. Count data system
7. Auto sorter by Uster
Methods of Yarn count measuring system:
The different end-uses require yarns of different thickness. The accepted way to indicate the thickness of
a yarn or material in various stages of yarn manufacturing is to give the yarn count or linear density. The
length of the material is measured out, and then weighed. Count is expressed as the length per unit
mass.The linear density is expressed as mass per unit length. Each system is referred to as being either
indirect or direct.

54
Fig: Count measurement machine

55
Objectives of this study:
1. To know about yarn count.
2. To know about the calculation of yarn count.
Theory:

The yarn count is a numerical expression which defines its fineness or coarseness. It also expresses
weather the yarn is thick or thin. A definition is given by the textile institute – “Count is a number which
indicates the mass per unit length or the length per unit mass of yarn.

Length in yard x Weight Unit

Cotton count = ---------------------------------------------------- ………… (1)
840 yard x Weight in pound

Required apparatus:
 Digital Balance.
 Sample of yarn.
 Calculator.

procedure:
At first, a lea of yarn has been taken. Then the lea was weighted by digital balance. The weight gram was
converted to pound. Then the data were put in equation (1). The count was calculated by the equation.
Finally average count have been calculated which is the cotton count of this sample.

56
Experimental Data:
Table 1: Measurement of Yarn Count

Table 2: Measurement of Yarn Count CV%

Results:
The average count is 42 and the CV% is 5.95.

Discussion:
In this experiment, the yarn count of the given cotton sample was determined by wrap reel and analytical
balance. It is a very easy process of determining yarn count. We must be careful about some steps of this
process. We should maintain proper tension of yarn when yarns are wind on wrap reel. The weights
should also be taken very carefully. Otherwise the count can have error. We also should be aware about
our body movement in the lab. Otherwise any accident can be occurred.

Conclusion:
It is a very easy process of determining yarn count. But a disadvantage of this process is, it is slower than
any other process. There need more time than another process. However, it is so much used process as it
is so easy to be done.

57
 CHAPTER FIVE

RESULTS & DISCUSSION

58
CHAPTER FIVE - RESULTS & DISCUSSION

59
CHAPTER SIX

CONCLUSIONS

60
 CHAPTER SIX-CONCLUSIONS

CONCLUSIONS

61
 REFERENCES

[1] C. A. Lawrence, Advance in yarn Spinning technology. Philadelphia: oodhead

Publishing Limited, 2010, pp. 2 –4.

[2] Werner Klein, Manual Of Textile Technology (Short Staple Spinning Series ). The
Textile Institute, p. Volume 4 (1–45).

[3] Carl A. Lawrence, SPUN YARN TECHNOLOGY Library of Congress Cataloging-

in-Publication Data. Washington D.C.: CRC PRESS, 2003.

[4] P. R. Lord, Handbook of Yarn Production: Technology, Science and Economics.

CRC Press; 1 edition, 2003.

[5] T. Vijykumar, “Report on experience with the Rieter C 60 CARD. Link, 51.,”
Rieter, vol. 19, pp. 3–6, Dec-2007.

[6] Angelfire.(n.d.), “Carding. Retrieved from Angelfire.”

Available: http://www.angelfire.com/jazz/pakspinning/CARDING.htm.

[7] Peter R.Loard., The Economies, Science and Technology of Yarn Production.
Manchester, England: CRC Press; 1 edition, 1981, pp. chap.12, page149–171.

[8] Angelfire. (n.d.)., “Draw Frame. Retrieved from Angelfire,” 2010. Available:
http://www.angelfire.com/jazz/pakspinning/DRAWING PROCESS.htm.

[9] Muhammad Adnan Abid, “How to minimize the defects rate of final product in
textile plant by the implementation of DMAIC tool of Six Sigma,” University of Boras,
2010.

62
[10] B P Saville, Physical testing of textile. New York: Woodhead Publishing Limited,
1999, pp. ch#4 (77–108), ch#5 (142–145), ch#11 (296–300).
[11] T. P. A. T k Pattabhiram, Essential Facts Of Practical Cotton Spinning.
Mahajan, 1979.

[12] E. Oxtoby, Spun Yarn Technology. Boston, Lomdon: ButterworthHeinemann.

[13] Muhammad Furqan Khurshid, “Study of yarn faults and their identification,
reasons, rectification and impact on subsequent process,” Bahauddin Zakariya University
College of Textile Engineering & Technology Multan, 2009.

[14] USTER®, “Description of all quality parameters measured by Uster Technologies

fiber and yarn testing equipment,” vol. 3, no. July. pp. 10–13, 2010.

[15] USTER®, “USTER® STATISTICS Aplication Handbook,” no. January. pp. 12–
29, 2013.

[16] Application Manual Of Uster Quantum Chapter 1 Uster Technologies Ag

Switzerland

[17] AUTEX Research Journal, Vol. 9, No4, December 2009 © AUTEX p: 103 -
105

[18] USTER TESTER 5 application hand book 4-32

63