YANMAR

DIESEL INBOARD SHOP MANUAL

ONE, TWO 8. THREE CYLINDER ENGINES

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 General Information

Troubleshooting

Operation, Lubrication, Maintenance and Tune-up

Lay-up and Fitting Out

Single-Cylinder Engines

' Multicyiinder Engines

Fuel Injection and Governor Systems

Cooling System

Eiectricai System

Transmission-KM Series

Transmission-KBW Series

Index

Wiring Diagrams

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 Contents

QUICKREFERENCEDATA .............................................. IX
CHAPTER ONE
GENEMLINFORMAflON ...............................................
Manual organization . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1. .................................
Lubricants
1
8
Notes. cautions and warnings . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2 RTV gasket sealant . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9
Safety first . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2 Threadlock . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9
Service hints . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .3 Basic hand tools . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9
Parts replacement . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 Precision measuring tools . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13
Torque specifications . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4. Mechanic's tips . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16
Fasteners . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 Bearing replacement . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18
Seals . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23

CHAPTER TWO
TROUBLLSHO<YI1NG .................................................. 26
Starting system . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27 Engine exhaust smoke . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .35
Charging system . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .31 Engine noises . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35
Charging system tests . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3 1 Engine troubleshooting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 36 .
Fuel system . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .32. Cooling system . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 36
Cooling system . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .34 . Lubrication system . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 36

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 CHAPTER THREE
OPERATION. LUBRICATION. MAINTENANCE AND TUNE-UP
Fuel requirements . . . . . . :. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 42
...................42
Engine maintenance and lubrication . . . . . . . . . . . . . 44
Preoperational checks . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 42 Cooling system . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 52
Starting checklist . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 43 Battery . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 56
Stopping the engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 44 Engine tune-up . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 57
Emergency engine stopping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 44 Transmission . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 60
Post-operational checks . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 44

CHAPTER FOUR
LAY.UPANDFITT1NGOUT .............................................63
Lay-up . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 63 Fittingout . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 66
Cooling system draining . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 64

CHAPTER FIVE
SINGLE.CYLINDERENGINES ............................................GS
Diesel engine fundamentals . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 68 Pushrods . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 79
Engine serial number and code . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 70 Pistoniconnecting rod assembly . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 79
Replacement parts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 70 Timing gearcase . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 85
Engine removal precautions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 70 Lubrication system . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 86
Valvecover . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 71 Flywheel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 89
. .
Breather assembly . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 71 Drlvedisc . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 91
Decompression mechanism . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 73 Crankshaft . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 91
Cylinder head . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 73 Mainbearings . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 93
Rocker shaft assembly . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 76 Camshaft . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 93
Valves and valve seats . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 77 Cylinder block . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 95

CHAPTER SIX
MULTICYLINDER ENGINES .............................................99
Engine serial number and code . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 99 Push rods . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 113
Replacement parts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 100 Pistoniconnecting rod assembly . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 113
Engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 100 Timing gearcase . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 118
Valve cover . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 1 Lubrication system . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 120
Breather assembly . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 1 Flywheel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 122
Decompression mechanism . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 102 Drivedisc . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 123
Exhaust manifold . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 103 Crankshaft . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 123
Cylinderhead . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 105 Mainbearings . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 126
Rocker shaft assembly . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 109 Camshaft . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 127
Valves and valve seats . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 110 Cylinder block . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 128

CHAPTER SEVEN
FUEL INJECTION AND GOVERNOR SYSTEMS ...............................138
Fuel injection fundamentals . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 138 Fuel injection pump . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 149
Fuel injection system bleeding . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 142 Fuel transfer pump . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 150
Fuel injection timing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 144 Fuellines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 151
Fuel injector . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 146 Governor system . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 152

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 CHAPTER EIGHT
COOLINGSYIZM ...................................................
.............................
Cooling systems . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 159 Seawater pump
159
170
Thermostat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 165 Freshwater pump . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 177
Hose replacement . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 168 Freshwater cooling system maintenance . . . . . . . . . 177
Drivebelts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 169 Seawater cooling system maintenance . . . . . . . . . . . 181

CHAPTER NINE
ELECTRICALSYSTEM ................................................1 8 3
Battery . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 183 Senders . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 195
Electrical protection . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 188 Warning lamps . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 197
Charging system . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 189 Alarm buzzer . . . . . I . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 197
Starting system . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 190 Tachometer . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 197
Switches . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 195

CHAPTER TEN
TRANSMISSION--KM SERIES ..........................................1 9 9
Operation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 199 Reassembly . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 208
Removal/installation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 1 Bearing adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 211
Overhaul . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 202 Drivedisc . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 213

CHAPTER ELEVEN
TRANSMISSION--KBWSERIES ......................................... 2 1 6
Operation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 216 Bearing adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 224
Removal/installation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 217 Drivedisc . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 225
Overhaul . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 217

INDEX ...........................................................227
WIRING DIAGRAMS .................................................231

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 Chapter One

This shop manual covers the GM Yanmar ma- gine is equipped with a freshwater (closed) cooling sys-
rine diesel engine series identified in Table 1. tem. Suffix letter D indicates the engine is equipped with a
Troubleshooting, tune-up, maintenance and repair are Kanzaki KBW 1OD transmission.
not difficult, if you know what tools and equipment to use Except where specified, F and D series engines are in-
and what to do. Step-by-step instructions guide you cluded when a basic model number is specified. For ex-
through jobs ranging from simple maintenance to com- ample, if model 3GM is called out in a procedure, the
plete engine overhaul. procedure also applies to 3GMD and 3GMF.
This manual can be used by anyone from a first-time
do-it-yourselfer to a professional mechanic. Detailed NOTE
drawings and clear photographs provide all the informa- Engine models ending with the letters C
tion needed to do the work right. (sail drive) or V (V-drive transmission) are
Some ofthe procedures in this manual require the use of not covered in this manual.
special tools. The resourceful mechanic can, in many
cases, think of acceptable substitutes for special tools. Metric and U.S. standards are used throughout this
However, using a substitute for a special tool is not recom- manual. U.S. to metric conversions are in Table 2.
mended, as it can be dangerous and may damage the part. Critical torque specifications are provided at the end of
If a tool can be designed and safely made, but will require each chapter (as required). Use the general torque specifi-
some type of machine work, contact a local community cations listed in Table 3 if a torque specification is not
college or high school that has a machine shop curricu- listed for a specific component or assembly.
lum. Shop teachers sometimes welcome outside work that Metric drill tap sizes are in Table 4.
can be used as practical shop applications for students. Tables 1-4 are located at the end of the chapter.
Each Yanmar marine diesel can be identified by its indi-
vidual model number. The model numbers for all Yanmar
marine diesel engines covered in this manual are listed in MANUAL ORGANIZATION
Table 1.
Some engine model numbers end with the letters F or D, This chapter provides general information useful to en-
such as 2GMF or 3GMD. Suffix letter F indicates the en- gine owners and mechanics. In addition, this chapter dis-

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 GENERAL INFORMATION 7

Common nut Self-locking nut

Correct
installation
of cotter pin

Flat washers are often used between a lockwasher and a

fastener to provide a smooth bearing surface. This allows
the fastener to be turned easily with a tool.

NOTE
Plain Folding As much care should be given to the selec-
tion and purchase of washers as that given
to bolts, nuts and other fasteners. Avoid
washers that are made of thin, weak materi-
als. These will deform and crush the jrst
time they are torqued, allowing the nut or
bolt to loosen.

Internal tooth External tooth

Cotter Pins

Cotter pins (Figure 13) are used to secure fasteners in a

special location. The threaded stud or bolt must have a
Washers hole in it. The nut or nut lock piece will have castellations
around its upper edge into which the cotter pin fits to keep
There are two basic types of washers: flat washers and it from loosening. When properly installed, a cotter pin is
lockwashers. Flat washers are simple discs with a hole to a positive locking device.
fit a screw or bolt. Lockwashers are designed to prevent a Purchase a cotter pin that will fit snugly when inserted
fastener from working loose due to vibration, expansion through the nut and the mating thread part. The cotter pin
and contraction. Figure 12 shows several types of wash- should not be so tight that it has to be driven in and out, but
ers. Washers are also used in the following functions: it should not be so loose that it can move or float after it is
a. As spacers. installed.
b. To prevent galling or damage of the equipment by Before installing a cotter pin, tighten the nut to the rec-
the fastener. ommended torque specification. If the castellations in thc
c. To help distribute fastener load during torquing. nut do not line up with the hole in the bolt or stud, tighten
d. As seals. the nut until alignment is achieved. Do not loosen the nut

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 8 CHAPTER ONE

to make alignment. Insert a new cotter pin through the nut

and hole, then tap the head lightly to seat it. Bend one arm
over the flat on the nut and the other against the top of the
stud or bolt (Figure 13). cut the arms to a suitable length
to prevent them from snagging on clothing or skin. When
the cotter pin is bent and its arms cut to length, it should be
tight. If it can be wiggled, it is improperly installed.
Full support
Do not reuse cotter pins, as their ends may break and al- areas
low the cotter pin to fall out and the fastener to loosen.

Circlips

Circlips can be internal or external design. They are

used to retain items on shafts (external type) or within
tubes (internal type). In some applications, circlips of
varying thickness are used to control the end play of parts
assemblies. These are often called selective circlips. Re-
place circlips during installation, as removal weakens and
deforms them.
Two basic styles of circlips are available: machined and
stamped circlips. Machined circlips (Figure 14) can be in- Rounded edges
stalled in either direction (shaft or housing) because both =sharp edges
faces are machined, thus creating two sharp edges.
Stamped circlips (Figure 15) are manufactured with one
sharp edge and one rounded edge. When installing
stamped circlips in a thrust situation, the sharp edge must
face away from the part producing the thrust. When in-
stalling circlips, observe the following: Direction of thrust
a. Remove and install circlips with circlip pliers. See
Circlip Pliers in this chapter.
b. Compress or expand circlips only enough to install
them.
c. After the circlip is installed, make sure it is com- Engine Oil
pletely seated in its groove.
Oil for marine and automotive four-stroke engines is
classified by the American Petroleum Institute (API) and
LUBRICANTS
the Society of Automotive Engineers (SAE) in several
Periodic lubrication ensures long life for any type of categories. Oil containers display these classifications on
equipment. The type of lubricant used is as important as the top or label. API oil classification is indicated by let-
the lubrication service itself, although in an emergency ters; oils for gasoline engines are identified by an "S" and
the wrong type of lubricant is better than none at all. The oils for diesel engines are identified by a "C".
following paragraphs describe the types of lubricants Viscosity is an indication of the oil's thickness. The
most often required. Be sure to follow the manufacturer's SAE uses numbers to indicate viscosity; thin oils have low
recommendations for lubricant types. numbers while thick oils have high numbers. A "W" after
Generally, all liquid lubricants are called oil. They may the number indicates that the viscosity testing was done at
be mineral-based (including petroleum bases), natu- low temperature to simulate cold-weather operation. En-
ral-based (vegetable and animal bases), synthetic-based gine oils fall into the 5W-30 and 20W-50 range.
or emulsions (mixtures). Grease is an oil to which a thick- Multi-grade oils (for example 10W-40)are less viscous
ening base has been added so that theoend product is (thinner) at low temperatures and more viscous (thicker)
semi-solid. Grease is often classified by the type of thick- at high temperatures. This allows the oil to perform efi-
ener added; lithium soap is commonly used. ciently across a wide range of engine operating condi-

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 GENERAL INFORMATION 21

Bearing

Blocks

Press arm

Shaft

Bearing

Spacer

k - 4 \ Press
bed

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 22 CHAPTER ONE

Shaft
I

and rewash the housing as required to re-

move all traces of oil and other chemical de-
posits.

a. The housing must be heated to a temperature of ap-

proximately 212" F (100" C) in an oven or on a hot Socket
plate. Check to see that it is at the proper tempera-
ture by dropping tiny drops of water on the case; if Spacer
they sizzle and evaporate immediately, the tempera-
ture is correct. Heat only one housing at a time. Bearing

CAUTION
Do not heat the housing with a torch (pro-
pane or acetylene)-never bring a flame Shaft Housing
into contact with the bearing or housing.
The direct heat will destroy the case harden-
ing of the bearing and will likely warp the
housing.

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 GENERAL INFORMATION 23

e. While the housing is still hot, install the new bear-

i n g ( ~into
) the housing. Install the bearings by hand,
if possible. If necessary, lightly tap the bearing(s)
into the housing with a socket placed on the outer
bearing race. Do not install new bearings by driving
on the inner bearing race. Install the bearing until it
seats completely.
b. Remove the housing from the oven or hot plate and i
hold onto the housing with a kitchen potholder,
heavy gloves or heavy shop cloths-it is hot. SEALS

NOTE Seals (Figure 57) are used to contain oil, water, grease
A suitable size socket and extension works or combustion gasses in a housing or shaft. Improper re-
well for removing and installing bearings. moval of a seal can damage the housing or shaft. Improper
installation of the seal can damage the seal. Note the fol-
c. Hold the housing with the bearing side down and lowing:
tap the bearing out. Repeat for all bearings in the
1. Prying is generally the easiest and most effective
housing.
method of removing a seal from a housing. However, al-
d. Prior to heating the bearing housing, place the new ways place a rag underneath the pry tool to prevent dam-
bearing in a freezer, if possible. Chilling a bearing age to the housing.
will slightly reduce its outside diameter, while the
2. Pack grease in the seal lips before the seal is installed.
heated bearing housing assembly will be slightly
larger due to heat expansion. This will make bear-
3. Always install seals so that the manufacturer's num-
bers or marks face out.
ing installation much easier.
4. Install seals with a socket placed on the outside of the
NOTE seal as shown in Figure 58. Make sure the seal is driven
Always install bearings with the manufac- squarely into the housing. Never install a seal by hitting
turer b mark or number facing outward. against the top of the seal with a hammer.

Tables 1.4 are on the following pages.

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 24 CHAPTER ONE

Table I YANMAR MODELS

I Model
Number of
cylinders , Displacement
293 cc (17.9 cu. in.)
Horsepower
lrpm
6.5 hpI3400 rpm
Transmission
KM2A
Transmission ratio
(forward gear)

318 cc (19.4 cu. in.) 8 hpI3400 rpm KM2C or KM2P

586 cc (35.7 cu. in.) 13 hpI3400 rpm KM2A
586 cc (35.7 cu. in.) 13 hpI3400 rpm KM2A
636 cc (38.8 cu. in.) 16 hpI3400 rpm KM2C or KM2P
636 cc (38.8 cu. in.) 16 hpI3400 rpm KM2C or KM2P
879 cc (53.6 cu. in.) 20 hpI3400 rprn KBWlOD
879 cc (53.6 cu. in.) 20 hpI3400 rprn KBWlOD
879 cc (53.6 cu. in.) 20 hpI3400 rprn KM3A
954 cc (58.2 cu. in.) 24 hpI3400 rpm KM3A or KM3P
954 cc (58.2 cu. in.) 24 hpI3400 rpm KM3A or KM3P
1126 cc (68.7 cu. in.) 27 hpI3200 rprn KBWlOE
1126 cc (68.7 cu. in.) 27 hpI3200 rprn KBWlOE
1282 cc (78.2 cu. in.) 30 hpI3200 rprn KBWlOE
1282 cc (78.2 cu. In.) 30 hp/3200 rpm KBWlOE

Table 2 DECIMAL AND METRIC EQUIVALENTS

Decimal Metric Decimal Metric
Fractions in. mm Fractions in. mm

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 Chapter Two

Troubleshooting

Every internal combustion engine requires an uninter- once, what color smoke (if any) came from the exhaust,
rupted supply of fuel, air, ignition and adequate compres- etc.
sion. If any of these are lacking, the engine will not run. After defining the symptoms, test and analyze those ar-
Troubleshooting is a relatively simple matter if it is eas that could cause the problem(s). Many problems can
done logically. The first step in any troubleshooting pro- be analyzed without expensive test equipment. A few
cedure is to define the symptoms as fully as possible and simple checks can keep a small problem from turning into
then localize the problem. Subsequent steps involve test- a large one. They can also avoid a large repair bill and
ing and analyzing those areas that could cause the symp- time lost while the boat sits in a shop's service depart-
toms. A haphazard approach may eventually solve the ment.
problem, but it can be costly in terms of wasted time and On the other hand, be realistic and do not attempt re-
unnecessary parts replacement. pairs beyond your abilities or with makeshift tools. Ma-
When all else fails, go back to basics-simple solutions rine service departments also tend to charge heavily for
often solve complex-appearing problems. putting together a disassembled engine or other compo-
nents that may have been abused. Some shops will not
Never assume anything. Do not overlook the obvious. If even accept such a job. Use common sense and do not get
the engine suddenly quits when running or refuses to start, in over your head or attempt a job without the proper
check the easiest and most accessible areas first. Make tools.
sure there is fuel in the tank and that the wiring is properly
Proper lubrication, maintenance and periodic tune-ups
connected.
as described in Chapter Three will reduce the necessity for
Be familiar with the engine compartment and engine troubleshooting. Even with the best care, however, every
components so a quick visual check is possible. Learning marine engine is prone to problems that will eventually re-
to recognize and describe symptoms accurately will make quire troubleshooting.
repairs easier. If a technician is required, saying that it will If installing replacement parts, do not use automotive
not run is not the same as saying that it quit at full throttle parts. While marine components, such as starters and al-
and would not restart. ternators, may appear to be the same as automotive com-
Identify as many symptoms as possible to aid in diagno- ponents, they are not. Marine components have been
sis. Note whether the engine lost power gradually or all at designed to withstand the unique requirements of marine

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 TROUBLESHOOTING 27

0 STARTING CIRCUIT (TYPICAL)

Starter solenoid

Key switch

service, as well as to provide a measure of safety that is STARTING SYSTEM

not required of automotive service. For example, a marine
starter is flashproofed to prevent possible ignition of fuel The starting system consists of the battery, starter mo-
vapor in the bilge. The use of an automotive starter as a re- tor, starter solenoid, starter switch, key switch, fuse and
placement can result in an explosion or fire, which may connecting wiring. See Figure 1, typical.
cause death, serious injury or boat damage. Starting system problems are relatively easy to find. In
This chapter contains brief descriptions of each major many cases, the trouble is a loose or dirty connection.
operating system and troubleshooting procedures to be
used. The troubleshooting procedures analyze common Starting System Operation
symptoms and provide logical methods of isolation.
These are not the only methods. There may be several ap- The battery switch, if used, and the key switch must be
proaches to a problem, but all methods used must have in the ON positions so battery current is available to the
one thing in common to be successful-a logical, system- starter circuit. When the start switch on the instrument
atic approach. panel is pushed, battery current flows to the starter sole-
Troubleshooting diagrams for individual systems are noid, which mechanically engages the starter with the en-
provided within this chapter. A master troubleshooting gine flywheel. The solenoid also directs current to the
chart (Table 1) is provided at the end of this chapter. starter motor, which rotates the engine flywheel to start

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 28 CHAPTER TWO

Ohmmeter
Ohmmeter

(S) terminal I I

, Starter
motor

the engine. Once the engine has started and the start
switch is released, the slave solenoid is de-energized.
Without current to hold the solenoid in position, the
3. Repeat Step 1. If the starter running speed is still too
starter motor overrunning clutch disengages the starter
slow, replace the starter.
pinion from the flywheel.

On-Boat Testing Starter solenoid clicks, starter does not run

Two of these procedures require a fully charged 12-volt 1. Clean and tighten all starter and solenoid connections.
battery, to be used as a booster, and a pair of jumper ca- Make sure the terminal eyelets are securely fastened to the
bles. Use the jumper cables as outlined in J u m p Starting, wire strands and are not corroded.
Chapter Nine, following all of the prccautions noted. Dis- 2. Remove the battery terminal clamps. Clean the clamps
connect the wiring harness and leads at the rear of the al- and battery posts. Reinstall the clamps and tighten them
ternator before connecting a booster battery for these securely.
tests. This will protect the alternator from possible dam- 3. If the starter still does not run, connect the 12-volt
age. booster battery to the engine's battery with the jumper ca-
bles. If the starter still does not run, replace it.
Slow running starter

I . Connect the 12-volt booster battery to the engine's bat- Starter solenoid chatters (no click),
tery with jumper cables. Listen to the starter running starter does not run
speed as the engine is cranking. If the starter running
speed sounds normal, check the battery for loose or cor- 1. Check the S terminal wire connection at the starter so-
roded connections or a low charge. Clean and tighten the lenoid. Clean and tighten if necessary.
connections as required. Recharge the battery if neces- 2. Disconnect the S terminal wire at the starter solenoid.
sary. Connect a jumper wire between this terminal and the posi-
2. If starter running speed does not sound nonnal, clean tive battery post.
and tighten all starter solenoid connections and the battery 3. Try starting the engine. If the engine starts, check the
ground on the engine. key switch, starter switch and the system wiring for an

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 TROUBLESHOOTING 29

Loud grinding noises when starter runs

This can be caused by improper meshing of the starter

Ammeter Voltmeter
pinion and flywheel ring gear or by a broken overrunning
clutch mechanism.
1. Remove the starter. See Chapter Nine.
2. Check the starter pinion gear. If the teeth are chipped
or worn, inspect the flywheel ring gear for the same prob-
lem. Replace the starter andlor ring gear as required.
3. If the pinion gear is in good condition, the overrunning
clutch mechanism in the starter may be defective. Replace
the starter with a new or rebuilt marine unit.

Starter motor
Starter Solenoid Resistance Tests

Check the starter solenoid using the following resis-

tance tests:

open circuit or a loose connection. If the engine does not CAUTION

start, replace the starter solenoid. Disconnect the negutive battery cable be-
, fore performing resistance tests.

1. Refer to Figure 2 and connect an ohmmeter lead to the

Starter spins but does not rotateflywheel S terminal of the solenoid. Connect the remaining ohm-
meter lead to the metal body of the solenoid. The ohmme-
1. Remove the starter. See Chapter Nine. ter should indicate approximately one ohm or less.
Replace the solenoid if the ohmmeter indicates infinite re-
2. Check the starter pinion gear. If the teeth are chipped
sistance (no continuity).
or worn, inspect the flywheel ring gear for the same prob-
lem. Replace the starter and/or ring gear as required. 2. Refer to Figure 3 and connect an ohmmeter lead to the
S terminal of the solenoid. Connect the remaining ohm-
3. If the pinion gear is in good condition, disassemble the meter lead to the M terminal of the solenoid. The ohmme-
starter and check the armature shaft for corrosion. See ter should indicate approximately one ohm or less.
Brush Replacement, Chapter Nine, for the disassembly Replace the solenoid if the ohmmeter indicates infinite re-
procedure. If no corrosion is found, the starter drive mech- sistance (no continuity).
anism is slipping. Replace the starter with a new or rebuilt
marine unit.
Starter Motor No-Load Current Draw Test

Starter will not disengage when start switch is released If troubleshooting indicates that the starter motor may
be defective, use the following starter motor no-load cur-
rent draw test to determine if the starter motor is in accept-
This problem is usually caused by a sticking solenoid or able operating condition.
defective start switch, but the pinion may jam on the fly- To perform the test, the following equipment is needed:
wheel ring gear on an engine with many hours of opera- an ammeter capable of measuring 0-100 amps, a voltme-
tion. ter, a vibration tachometer and a fully charged 12-volt bat-
tery. Minimum battery capacity is 70 amp-hours for one-
NOTE and two-cylinder engines and 100 amp-hours for
A low battery or loose or corroded battery three-cylinder engines.
connections can also cause the starter to re-
1. Remove the starter motor from the engine. Securely
main engaged with the flywheel ring gear:
Low voltage at the starter can cause the fasten the motor in a vise or other suitable holding fixture.
contacts inside the solenoid to chatter and 2. Using a heavy gauge jumper cable, connect the amme-
weld together; resulting in the solenoid ter in series with the positive battery terminal (Figure 4).
sticking in the ONposition. Connect a voltmeter to the battery.

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 30 CHAPTER TWO

CHARGING SYSTEM (TYPICAL)

Battery
switch

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 TROUBLESHOOTING 31

3. Hold a vibration-type tachometer against the starter 3. Charging system warning lamp jlashes on and
frame. of-This usually indicates that the charging system is
4. To operate the starter motor, connect a wire between working intermittently. Check drive belt tension first, then
the positive battery terminal and the S terminal on the check all electrical connections in the charging circuit. As
starter solenoid. a last resort, check the alternator.
5. Note the starter rpm, current draw and battery voltage 4. Charging system warning lamp comes on and stays
while the motor is running, then disconnect the wire to the on-This usually indicates that no charging is taking
S terminal on the solenoid. place. First check drive belt tension, then the battery con-
6. If the starter motor does not perform within the specifi- dition. Check all wiring connections in the charging sys-
cations listed in Table 3, repair or replace the motor as de- tem. If this does not locate the problem, check the
scribed in Chapter Nine. alternator and voltage regulator as described in this chap-
ter.
CHARGING SYSTEM 5. Battery requiresfrequent addition of water or lamp re-
quires frequent replacement-The alternator is probably
The charging system consists of the alternator, voltage overcharging the battery. The voltage regulator is most
regulator, battery, key switch, instrument panel warning likely at fault.
light, connecting wiring and fuse. 6. Excessive noisefrom the alternator-Check for loose
A belt driven by the engine crankshaft pulley turns the mounting brackets and bolts. The problem may also be
alternator, which produces electrical energy to charge the worn bearings or, in some cases, lack of lubrication. If an
battery. As engine speed varies, the voltage output of the alternator whines, a shorted diode may be the problem.
alternator varies. The regulator maintains the voltage to
the electrical system within safe limits. The warning light
on the instrument panel signals if charging is not taking CHARGING SYSTEM TESTS
place.
All models use a Hitachi alternator with an internal The alternator is equipped with an internal transistor-
transistorized voltage regulator attached to the rear alter- ized regulator. The transistorized regulator contains exci-
nator housing. Alternator output is 35 amps (model tation and sensing circuits. The regulator controls output
LR135-05) or 55 amps (model LR155-20). Figure 5 voltage by switching the alternator rotor current on and
shows components of the charging circuit. off. A rectifier consisting of a set of diodes converts alter-
Charging system troubles are generally caused by a de- nating current to direct current.
fective alternator, voltage regulator, battery or an inopera-
tive charge lamp. They may also be caused by something Alternator Regulated Voltage Test
as simple as incorrect drive belt tension.
The following are symptoms of problems that may be This test checks the regulated voltage output of the al-
encountered. ternator. All wires connected to the alternator for normal
1. Battery discharges frequently-This can be caused by operation must be connected.
a drive belt that is slightly loose. Grasp the alternator pul-
1. Check the alternator drive belt tension. See Chapter
ley with both hands and try to turn it. If the pulley can be
Three.
turned without moving the belt, the drive belt is too loose.
As a rule, keep the belt tight enough so that it can be de- 2. Check the battery terminals and cables for corrosion
and/or loose connections. Disconnect the negative battery
flected only about 112 in. under moderate thumb pressure
cable, then the positive battery cable. Clean the cable
applied between the pulleys. The battery may also be at
clamps and battery terminals, if necessary, then reconnect
fault; test the battery condition as described in Chapter
the cables.
Nine.
2. Charging system warning lamp does not light when 3. Check all wiring connections between the alternator
key switch is turned ON-This may indicate a defective and engine to make sure they are clean and tight.
key switch, battery, voltage regulator or warning lamp. 4. Connect the positive lead of a voltmeter to the BAT ter-
Try to start the engine. If it doesn't start, check the key minal of the alternator. Connect the negative voltmeter
switch and battery. If the engine starts, remove and test the lead to the E terminal of the alternator. See Figure 6.
warning lamp bulb. If the problem persists, the alternator 5. Move the engine wire harness back and forth while ob-
brushes may not be making contact. Perform the System serving the voltmeter scale. The meter should indicate a
Circuitry Test in this chapter. steady battery voltage reading (approximately 12 volts).

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 32 CHAPTER TWO

VOLTAGE OUTPUT TEST

55A ALTERNATOR

If the reading varies or if no reading is obtained, check for 9. Connect a tachometer to the engine. Connect a carbon
poor connections or damaged wiring. pile load device to the battery terminals.
6. Turn the key switch ON. Run the engine from idle up 10. Start the engine and run at 2,500 rpm. Adjust the car-
to 2,500 rpm and note the voltmeter reading. If the volt- bon pile to obtain maximum alternator output. The amme-
meter does not indicate 14.2-14.8 volts, remove the alter- ter should read the rated amperage according to the
nator and have it bench tested by a dealership or qualified alternator model identified on the data plate on the alter-
specialist. nator (Figure 8). Model LR135 alternators should pro-
duce 35 amps, and model LR155 alternators should
produce 55 amps.
Alternator Current Output Test

This test checks the current output of the alternator. All FUEL SYSTEM
wires connected to the alternator for normal operation
must be connected. Refer to Figure 7 for this procedure. Refer to Chapter Seven for a description of fuel system
1. Check the alternator drive belt tension. See Chapter operation. A diagram of a typical fuel system is shown in
Three. Figure 9.
2. Disconnect the negative battery cable. Be aware that diesel fuel injection systems require clean
3. Disconnect the wire from the BAT terminal on the al- fuel that meets the fuel requirements specified by the en-
ternator. gine manufacturer. Many fuel problems are a result of
4. Connect the positive lead of a 0-100 amp DC ammeter contaminated fuel or fuel not approved by the engine
to the BAT terminal and the negative lead to the discon- manufacturer. Refer to Chapter Three.
nected wire.
5. Reconnect the negative battery cable. NOTE
Engine components outside the fuel system
6. Make sure the engine control is in the stop position. can also cause some of the following engine
7. Turn on all accessories and crank the engine for 15-20 symptoms. Be sure to check other engine
seconds to remove any surface charge from the battery. components that can also cause the symp-
8. Turn off all accessories. toms.

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 34 CHAPTER TWO

FUEL INJECTION SYSTEM

High pressure fuel pipe

described in Chapter Seven to remove air in fuel. Check 6 . Engine knocks-<heck the fuel injection pump timing
for a clogged or defective fuel injection pump or fuel in- as described in Chapter Seven. Check for a defective fuel
jector. injection pump.

WARNING
Wear goggles and protective clothing when COOLING SYSTEM
performing the nextprocedure. Diesel injec-
tors can spray with suficient force to pene- The engine may be equipped with a seawater cooling
trate the skin. Have afire extinguisher rated system or freshwater cooling system. Refer to Chapter
for fuel and electricalfires on hand. Eight for identification and description of the cooling sys-
tem.
To identify a faulty fuel injector on multicylinder en-
gines, loosen the fuel injector fuel line nut with the engine
running to reduce fuel pressure (only slight loosening is Engine Overheating
required). If the engine runs worse, the injector is operat-
ing satisfactorily. If the engine runs the same, the injector A problem in the cooling system generally causes en-
or the fuel injection pump is not operating properly. If no gine overheating; however, other engine problems can
fuel appears at the fuel line, the fuel injection pump is de- also cause overheating. Note the possible causes in the
fective. following list:

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 TROUBLESHOOTING 35

1. Loose pump drive belt (except 1GM models)-A loose Black Smoke
drive belt prevents the circulating pump from operating at
the proper speed. Black exhaust smoke results from excess fuel (rich) that
forms soot when burned. Either excess fuel or insufficient
2. Loose hose or pipe connections-Air may be drawn
air can cause black smoke. Some possible causes are a de-
into the suction side of the system.
fective fuel injection pump, poor injector spray pattern,
3. Worn or defective water pump-A worn or defective low injection opening pressure, clogged air intake, re-
pump may not provide sufficient cooling water. stricted exhaust system or low compression pressure.
4. Dirty cooling system-Debris in the cooling system
prevents adequate heat transfer to the cooling water. ENGINE NOISES
5. Defective or incorrect thermostat-A defective ther-
mostat may stay closed or not open sufficiently to allow Often the first evidence of an internal engine problem is
hot water to leave the engine. An incorrect thermostat a strange noise. That knocking, clicking or tapping sound
may open at a temperature higher than specified, thereby never heard before may be warning of impending trouble.
raising the temperature of the cooling water in the engine. While engine noises can indicate problems, they are
Conversely, a thermostat that stays open and doesn't close difficult to interpret correctly; inexperienced mechanics
or opens at a low temperature will cause the engine to run can be seriously misled by them.
at less than optimum temperature. Remember that diesels are much noisier than gasoline
engines and have a normal clatter at idle, especially when
cold. It is necessary to become accustomed to these nor-
ENGINE EXHAUST SMOKE mal noises in order to detect possible problem-associated
noises.
The engine should emit colorless exhaust smoke or Professional mechanics often use a special stethoscope
smoke that appears no more than a light haze. If the ex- for isolating engine noises. The home mechanic can do
haust smoke is black, white or blue, an engine problem nearly as well with a sounding stick, which can be an ordi-
exists. nary piece of dowel, a length of broom handle or a section
of small hose. Place one end in contact with the area in
question and the other end near the ear to hear sounds em-
Blue Smoke anating from that area. There are many strange sounds
coming from even a normal engine. If possible, have an
experienced mechanic help sort out the noises.
Blue exhaust smoke indicates that oil is burning during
the combustion process. Look for a condition that allows
oil to enter the combustion chamber, such as a broken pis- Clicking or Tapping Noises
ton, broken or stuck piston rings, a damaged cylinder
wall, worn valves or guides, a defective crankcase vent, or Clicking or tapping noises usually come from the valve
an overfilled oil sump. train and indicate excessive valve clearance. A sticking
valve may also sound like a valve with excessive clear-
ance. In addition, excessive wear in valve train compo-
White Smoke nents can cause similar engine noises.

Unburned fuel causes white exhaust smoke. The un- Knocking Noises
burned fuel may be due to retarded fuel injection timing or
insufficient compression pressure. Low compression A heavy, dull knocking is usually caused by a worn
pressure may be caused by a damaged cylinder gasket, main bearing. The noise is loudest when the engine is
broken piston rings, leaking valves or incorrectly adjusted working hard, such as accelerating at low speed. It is pos-
valves. Raw, unburned fuel may be due to incorrect fuel sible to isolate the trouble to a single bearing by disabling
(low cetane rating) or a defective injector. the fuel injectors on multicylinder engines one at a time.
By disabling the fuel injector nearest the bearing, the
NOTE knock will be reduced or disappear.
White smoke may also be due to coolant Worn connecting rod bearings may also produced a
leaking into the combustion chamber knock, but the sound is usually more metallic. As with a

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 36 CHAPTER TWO

main bearing, the noise is worse during acceleration. It Chapter Seven to repair the governor. If a fuel system
may increase in transition from acceleration to coasting. problem is suspected, refer to troubleshooting in the Fuel
Disabling the fuel injectors will help isolate this knock as System section of this chapter.
well.
A double knock or clicking usually indicates a worn
Engine Will Not Run Under Load
piston pin. Disabling fuel injectors on
multicylinderengines will isolate this to a particular pis- Refer to troubleshooting in the Fuel System section in
ton; however, the noise will increase when the affected this chapter.
piston is reached.
A loose flywheel and excessive crankshaft end play
also produce knocking noises. While similar to main bear- Low Oil Pressure
ing noises, they are usually intermittent, not constant, and
Low engine oil pressure may be caused by leakage in
they do not change when fuel injectors are disabled. If
the oil circuit, excessive bearing clearance, a clogged oil
caused by a loose flywheel or coupling, the noise is gener-
filter, a loose oil regulator valve or incorrect oil viscosity.
ally heard at idle or during rapid deceleration. It is a good
Low oil pressure may also be caused by engine overheat-
idea to recheck flywheellcoupler bolt torque whenever ac-
ing or oil dilution by fuel in the crankcase.
cessible.
Verify low oil pressure by performing the oil pressure
Some mechanics confuse piston pin noise with piston
test described in this chapter.
slap (excessive piston clearance). The double knock will
distinguish piston pin noise. Piston slap will always be If the engine is overheating, refer to troubleshooting in
louder when the engine is cold. the Cooling System section in this chapter.

COOLING SYSTEM
ENGINE TROUBLESHOOTING
The temperature warning lamp should signal cooling
These procedures assume the starter cranks the engine
over normally. If not, refer to the Starting System section system problems before there is any damage. If the engine
is stopped at the first indication of trouble, serious damage
of this chapter.
is unlikely.
With standard cooling systems in which seawater is
Engine Will Not Start drawn into the engine, circulated and then expelled, cool-
ing system problems are generally mechanical-a defec-
This can be caused by the fuel system or by insufficient tive pump or thermostat, a loose or broken drive belt or
compression pressure. Refer to troubleshooting in the passages plugged with contamination.
Fuel System section of this chapter. Refer to Chapter Closed cooling systems are more complex in that they
Three and check valve adjustment. Check for low com- use a heat exchanger, which transfers heat from the engine
pression pressure by performing a compression pressure coolant to seawater without the two coming in contact.
check as described in Chapter Three. Repair the engine as The closed portion of the cooling system is pressurized
required to obtain the correct compression pressure. (like an automotive cooling system) and uses a 50150 mix-
ture of ethylene glycol antifreeze and pure soft water.
Engine Misses Check this system periodically to make sure it can hold
pressure up to 13 psi.
This can be caused by the fuel system. Refer to trouble- Heat exchangers used in closed cooling systems collect
shooting in the Fuel System section of this chapter. salt, lime and other contaminants in their passages, lead-
Sticking intake or exhaust valves can also cause the en- ing to a gradual decrease in cooling efficiency. For this
gine to misfire. reason, they should be removed every two years and the
seawater passages cleaned with a wire brush and com-
pressed air.
Engine Stops Suddenly

This can be caused by engine seizure, a governor mal- LUBRICATION SYSTEM

function or a problem in the fuel system. Attempt to start
the engine to determine if the engine rotates freely. Refer Refer to Figure 10, Figure 11 and Figure 12 for lubri-
to Chapter Three to check governor adjustment or to cation system diagrams. A rotor type oil pump receives oil

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 TROUBLESHOOTING 37

LUBRICATION SYSTEM
(1GM AND 1 GM1O MODELS)

Valve rocker arm support

Lubricating oil suction pipe

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 38 CHAPTER TWO

LUBRICATION SYSTEM
(2GM AND 2GM20 MODELS)

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 TROUBLESHOOTING 39

LUBRICATION SYSTEM
(3GM, 3GM30,3HM AND 3HM35 MODELS)

3HM AND 3HM35

MODELS

Filter

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 Table 1 ENGINE TROUBLESHOOTING (continued)
Trouble Probable cause Correction
Engine stops suddenly (continued) Governor malfunction Repair governor
Engine seized lnspect and repair
Engine slows unexpectedly Overload Locate cause for overload and rectify
Fuel filter or fuel lines clogged lnspect and unclog or replace
Air in fuel system Bleed air in fuel system
Water in fuel Remove water
Misadjusted governor Adjust governor
Piston or bearing seizure Repair damaged components; determine
cause
Engine will not run under full load Clogged fuel filter Clean fuel filter
Faulty fuel feed pump Repair fuel feed pump
Worn fuel injection pump Repair or replace fuel injection pump
Engine knocks Excessive bearing clearance lnspect and repair
Loose rod bolt lnspect and repair
Loose flywheel or coupling bolt Tighten bolt
Incorrect injection timing Adjust timing
Excessive fuel injected into cylinder lnspect fuel injection pump and injectors
Low oil pressure Oil leaks lnspect and repair
Excessive bearing clearance lnspect and repair
Clogged oil filter element Clean or replace filter element
Faulty oil pressure regulator valve Repair oil pressure regulator valve
Low oil viscosity Replace oil; check for dilution due to fuel
leaking into crankcase
Overheating Dirty cooling system Flush cooling system
Faulty thermostat Replace thermostat
Insufficient coolant flow Check water pump; check for blockage in
system
lnsufficent coolant in closed system Fill with proper coolant
Air entering system Check for loose clamps and damaged
hoses

Table 2 STARTER MOTOR NO-LOAD SPECIFICATIONS

I Model Volts Max. amperage Speed (rpm) I
12 4000 or higher
All other models 12 7000 or higher

Table 3 OIL PRESSURE

At 850 rpm
all models 50 kPa (7 psi)
At 3400 rpm
3HM and 3HM35 300-400 kPa (43-58 psi)
At 3600 rpm
all models
except 3HM and 3HM35 300-400 kPa (43-58 psi)

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 Chapter Three

Operation, Lubrication, Maintenance

and Tune-up

A diesel engine must have clean air, fuel, and oil. Regu- NOTE
lar preventive maintenance and proper lubrication will Poor fuel is one of the leading causes of
pay dividends in longer engine and transmission life, as rough engine operation orfailure to start.
well as safer boat operation.
Dirty fuel or water in the fuel can cause expensive dam-
The lubrication and maintenance intervals provided in
age to the fuel injection pump and fuel injectors. Refer to
Table 1 are those recommended for normal operation. If
Chapter Seven.
the boat is used under continuous heavy duty or other se-
vere operating conditions, including infrequent use, per-
form maintenance and lubrication more frequently. PREOPERATIONAL CHECKS
Keep the engine and accessory units clean and free of
dirt, grime and grease buildup. It is much easier and safer Before starting the engine for the first time each day,
to perform service on a clean engine. It is also much easier perform the following checks:
to pinpoint any leaks. 1. Remove the engine compartment cover or hatch and
Tables 1-6 are located at the end of this chapter. check for the presence of fuel fumes. If the boat is
equipped with a bilge blower, turn it on for a few minutes.
NOTE If the smell of strong fumes is present, determine the
Except where specified, F and D series en- source and correct the problem before proceeding.
gines are included when a basic model num-
ber is specified. For example, ifmodel 3GM WARNING
is called out in a procedure, the procedure Always have a Coast Guard-approved fire
also applies to 3GMD and 3GMF extinguisher close when working around the
engine.

FUEL REQUIREMENTS 2. Check the engine oil level as described in this chapter.
Add oil if the level is low.
The recommended fuel is number 2 (2-D) diesel fuel. 3. Check the electrolyte level in each battery cell as de-
Be sure the fuel is clean and free of water. scribed in this chapter. Add distilled water if necessary.

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 OPERATION, LUBRICATION, MAINTENANCE AND TUNE-UP 43

4. Check the condition of all drive belts. If a belt is in CAUTION

doubtful condition, replace it. If the alarm buzzer or lamps remain on after
5. Check all water hoses for leaks, loose connections and the engine starts, stop the-engine and deter-
general condition. Repair or replace as required. mine the cause.
6. Check the oil level in the transmission as described in
this chapter. Add lubricant if necessary. Engines Equipped With Remote Control
7. Check the bilge for excessive water; ifpresent, drain or
Pump dry. Warm engine
8. Check the propeller for damage. Repair or replace the 1. If equipped with a bilge blower, operate it for at least
propeller if damaged. five minutes before starting the engine.
9. Remove any water or dirt in the fuel tank by opening 2. Move the speed control lever to the MEDIUM SPEED
the fuel tank drain valve. position.
10. Check the fuel level in the fuel tank and add fuel as 3. Rotate the key switch to the ON position. The alarm
needed. buzzer will come on.
11. Open the seacock and close any water drain valves.
12. Operate controls and check for free operation. WARNING
13. Connect the battery cables to the battery (if discon- Always have a fully charged fire extin-
nected). guisher on hand before attempting to start
the engine.
14. Open the fuel tank valve.
15. Reinstall the engine compartment cover or hatch. CAUTION
Do not push the starter for more than 15
seconds, or the starter motor may be dam-
STARTING CHECKLIST aged due to overheating.

After performing the preoperational checks, observe 4. Start the engine by pushing the start button. The alarm
the following starting procedure: lights and buzzer should go off.

CAUTION
Engines Without Remote Control Ifthe alarm buzzer .or lamps remain on after
the engine starts, stop the engine and deter-
1. If equipped with a bilge blower, operate it for at least mine the cause.
five minutes before starting the engine.
2. Move the clutch control lever to the NEUTRAL posi- Cold engine
tion.
3. Move the speed control lever to the MEDIUM SPEED 1. If equipped with a bilge blower, operate it for at least
position. five minutes before starting the engine.
4. Hold the decompression lever in the OPERATION po- 2. Move the speed control lever to the HIGH SPEED po-
sition. sition. Injection timing is retarded when starting with the
5. Rotate the key switch to the ON position. The alarm lever in the HIGH SPEED position.
buzzer will come on. 3. Move the decompression lever to the DECOMPRESSION
position.
WARNING 4. Rotate the key switch to the ON position. The alarm
Always have a fully charged fire extin- buzzer will come on.
guisher on hand before attempting to start
the engine. WARNING
Always have a fully charged fire extin-
CAUTION guisher on hand before attempting to start
Do not operate the starter for more than 15 the engine.
seconds, or the starter motor may be dam-
aged due to overheating. CAUTION
Do not operated the starter for more than 15
6. Start the engine by pushing the start button. The alarm seconds, or the starter motor may be dam-
lights and buzzer should go off. aged due to overheating.

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 OPERATION, LUBRICATION, MAINTENANCE AND TUNE-UP 45

I To engine

Whenever checking the oil level, always allow approxi-

mately five minutes for the oil in the upper end to drain
back into the crankcase oil pan.
1. With the boat at rest in the water and the engine off,
pull out the dipstick. See Figure 1 for the typical location.
Wipe it with a clean rag or paper towel, reinsert it and pull
it out again. Note the oil level on the dipstick.
2. Add oil, if necessary, so the oil level reaches the full
criteria that engine oils must meet to attain a diesel engine mark on the dipstick. Remove the oil fill plug (Figure 2)
oil classification of CA, CB, CC or CD. The classification or oil filler cap (Figure 3) and add oil through the hole in
system ranges from CA for light diesel engine service to the rocker arm cover.
CD for severe diesel engine service. Yanmar specifies en-
gine oils with classification CB or CC for use in the Engine Oil and Filter Change
Yanmar diesel engines covered in this manual.
Do not mix oil brands. For instance, do not add a differ- During normal engine operation, change the engine oil
ent oil brand than what is in the crankcase when topping after every 100 hours of operation. Replace the engine oil
off the oil level, except if necessary. Use only a filter after every 300 hours of operation. During break-in
high-quality oil. Yanmar recommends Shell Rotella, of a new or overhauled engine, change the engine oil after
Caltex RPM Delo, Mobil Delvac, Esso Standard and BP the first 20 hours of use, then after the next 30 hours of
Energol. use. Change the engine oil at normal intervals thereafter.
Refer to Table 2 for the recommended oil viscosity. Refer to the Engine Oil section in this chapter for the
recommended oil type. Refer to Table 2 for viscosity and
Table 3 for crankcase oil capacity.
Engine Oil Level Check Most installations do not leave enough space to permit
the use of the oil pan drain plug. For this reason, an oil
All engines will consume a certain amount of oil as a lu-
drain suction pump is the most common device used to
bricating and cooling agent. The amount depends on en-
drain the crankcase oil. The pump has a long, flexible
gine use and engine condition. During the engine break-in
hose, which is inserted into the oil dipstick tube and fed
period, the engine consumes more oil while the piston
into the crankcase. Several makes of pumps are available
rings seat in the cylinder bore. Engines with high hours of
from marine supply dealers. Some are hand-operated,
use may bum more oil due to worn engine components.
some are motorized and others are designed to be operated
Engines generally consume more oil at higher engine
with an electric drill (Figure 4).
speeds.
Direct the used oil into a sealable container and prop-
When to check engine oil is generally determined by
erly dispose of it.
the engine's oil consumption rate. If the engine has a high
oil consumption rate, then check the oil level before each NOTE
use or daily. If engine oil consumption is low, check the oil Never dispose of motor oil in the trash, on
level weekly. The best procedure is to check the oil level the ground, down a storm drain or over-
before operating the engine. board. Many service stations accept used

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 OPERATION. LUBRICATION. MAINTENANCE AND TUNE-UP 47

Air that enters the fuel system due to a damaged fuel

line or loose connection may cause the engine to missfire.
Ai! bleed plug Bleed the fuel system as described in this chapter.

Fuelfirter

Using clean fuel and maintaining the fuel system are

extremely important when operating a diesel engine. Die-
sel fuel, in addition to its obvious h c t i o n as fuel, pro-
vides lubrication for various components of the injection
system. Due to close operating tolerances, dirty fuel can
cause major damage to the fuel injection pump and injec-
tors. The engine is equipped with a fuel filter (Figure 6,
typical) to remove dirt from the fuel before it enters the
fuel injection pump.
Filter element After every 50 hours of operation, or more frequently if
necessary, remove and disassemble the fuel filter and
clean the inside of the fuel bowl and filter element. The
filter body contains a replaceable element. Replace the el-
ement after every 250 hours of operation or more fre-
quently if dirt clogs the element after fewer hours of

I t Canister operation. It is a good practice to replace the fuel filter ev-

ery season or if the engine has not been operated for an ex-
tended period.

NOTE
The boat may be equipped with additional
fuel filters. Be sure to clean and maintain
thosefilters according to the manufacturer j.
instructions.

NOTE
If the fuel filtering system is inadequate to
properly protect the engine, consult with a
fuel and maintain the fuel filter and fuel system compo- marine dealership that has experience with
nents to prevent a fuel system malfunction. diesel engines for fuel filter recommenda-
tions.
WARNING
Serious fire hazards always exist around Refer to Figure 7 when using the following procedure
diesel fuel. Do not allow any smoking in ar- to clean the filter or replace the filter element:
eas where fuel is present. Always have afire 1. Position a receptacle under the filter to catch spilled
extinguishel; rated for fuel and electrical fuel.
fires, on hand when refueling or servicing
2. Unscrew the retaining ring and remove the canister
any part of the fuel system.
and filter element. Note that the O-ring may remain on the
filter body or on the canister.
Fuel lines 3. Remove the element from the canister. If dirty or dam-
aged, discard the element.
Periodically inspect all fuel lines for leakage and dam- 4. Clean the canister in clean diesel fuel.
age. Replace or tighten them as required. Do not 5. Install the filter element in the canister.
overtighten a fitting to try to stop a leak; overtightening 6. Install a new O-ring on the canister.
may damage the fitting threads or the fuel line sealing sur- 7. Install the canister on the filter body, then install the re-
faces. tainer ring and tighten it hand-tight.

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 50 CHAPTER THREE

I Intake port

Alternator drive belt replacement (all models)

1. Loosen the alternator retaining nuts (B, Figure 12).
2. Move the alternator inward sufficiently to allow re-
moval of the belt from the pulleys and remove the belt.
3. Clean the pulley grooves so they are dry and free of
rust or other corrosion.
4. Place the new belt in the pulley grooves. Def lecto~
To Intake
5. Adjust belt tension as previously described.

Seawater pump drive belt replacement (2GM, 2GM20,

3GM, 3GM30,3HM and 3HM35 models) ~rilled
hole

1. Remove the alternator drive belt as described in the

previous section.
2. Loosen the screws that secure the seawater pump
mounting plate (B, Figure 14).
3. Move the alternator inward sufficiently to allow re-
0 hose
moval of the belt from the pulleys and remove the belt.
4. Clean the pulley grooves so they are dry and free of
rust or other corrosion. Mesh
5. Place the new belt in the pulley grooves.
6. Adjust belt tension as previously described.

Crankcase Breather

The crankcase breather assembly vents crankcase

pressure into the intake port or manifold. This produces a
negative pressure in the crankcase. If the breather mal-
functions, oil may be forced past the piston rings, oil seals
Refer to Chapter Five or Six for service procedures for
and gaskets.
the crankcase breather. Refer to the following paragraphs
Periodic maintenance is not normally required unless
for a description of the breather on specific models.
excessive oil gasses clog the crankcase breather. This is
usually indicated by blue exhaust smoke or oil in the in- On IGM and 1GMlO models, a reed valve system lo-
take port or manifold. If the breather must be cleaned fre- cated on the rocker arm cover controls crankcase gas
quently, determine the cause, such as broken or stuck movement. See Figure 15. The reed valve opens when the
piston rings. downward moving piston increases crankcase gas pres-

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 OPERATION, LUBRICATION, MAINTENANCE AND TUNE-UP 53

ANODE MOUNTINGS

1GM AND 1GMlO MODELS

Mounting plug
Mounting plug
Gasket

Anode
Gasket Gasket
Anode
CYLINDER HEAD
CYLINDER BLOCK

2GM, 2GM20,3GM, 3GM30,3HM AND 3HM35 MODELS

(closed) cooling system requires additional maintenance may be used for most engines, but modification of the pro-
due to the freshwater portion of the system, which in- cedure may be necessary for some installations.
cludes a freshwater pump and may include an antifreeze 1. Detach the inlet hose from the water pump.
mixture.
2. Connect a hose from a water tap to the inlet of the wa-
ter pump.
Seawater (Standard) Cooling Systems
3. Open the water tap.
Flushing the system 4. With the transmission in neutral, start the engine and
run at normal idle until the engine reaches normal operat-
Flushing procedures may differ depending upon engine ing temperature.
installation and the location of the water pump. Regard-
less of pump location, cooling water must always circu- 5. Observe the water being flushed from the cooling sys-
late through the water pump whenever the engine is tem. When the flow is clear, shut the engine off, then shut
running to prevent damage to the pump impeller. On mod- off the water tap.
els equipped with a closed cooling system, both pumps 6. Reconnect the inlet hose to the water pump.
must be supplied with cooling water.
The following procedure provides steps to flush the NOTE
cooling system of engines equipped with a seawater cool- Refer to Chapter Eight toJush and refill the
ing system as well as the seawater portion on engines freshwater portion of a closed cooling sys-
equipped with a closed cooling system. This procedure tem or to service the heat exchanger

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 54 CHAPTER THREE

Freshwater (Closed) Cooling Systems

Inspection
WARNING
When performing any service work on the
engine or cooling system, never remove the
pressure fill cap on the exhaust manifold Heat
exch
(Figure 24), drain coolant or disconnect
any hose while the engine is hot. Scalding
fluid and steam may be blown out under
pressure and cause serious injuly.

Once a year, or whenever troubleshooting the cooling

system, check the following items. If the proper equip-
ment is not available, have the tests performed by a radia-
tor shop.
1. Loosen and remove the pressure fill cap (Figure 24).
2. Check the cap seals for tears or cracks. Check for a ChecWFill Coolant (Equipped With a
bent or distorted cap. Rinse the cap under warm tap water Remote Reservoir)
to flush away any loose rust or dirt particles.
Refer to Figure 26.
3. Inspect the cap neck seat for dents, distortion or con-
tamination. Wipe the sealing surface with a clean cloth to 1. Check the level of the coolant in the remote reservoir
remove any rust or dirt. tank (Figure 26) when the engine is cold. The coolant
level should be between the marks on the tank.
4. Check the fluid level and fill the system if necessary as
described in the ChecWFill Coolant section in this chap- 2. If the coolant level is low, but the tank is not dry, add
ter. coolant to the tank. Refer to the following section for the
5. Check all cooling system hoses for damage or deterio- proper coolant mixture.
ration. Replace any hose that is questionable. Make sure
WARNING
all hose clamps are tight.
Do not remove the pressure fill cap (Figure
6. Check the heat exchanger (Figure 25) for cracks or 24) from the pressurized cooling system
damage. Service, if necessary, as described in Chapter when the engine is hot.
Eight.
3. If the coolant level is low, but the tank is dry, remove
ChecWfill coolant (not equipped with the pressure fill cap on the exhaust manifold (Figure 24).
remote reservoir) Add coolant to the exhaust manifold so it is full, replace
the cap, then add coolant to the remote reservoir tank to
WARNING the proper level.
Do not remove thefill pressure cap (Figure 4. Run the engine until it reaches normal operating tem-
24) from the pressurized cooling system perature, then let the engine cool. Recheck the coolant
when the engine is hot. level in the remote tank and, if necessary, refill the remote
reservoir tank.
1. Loosen and remove the pressure fill cap (Figure 24).
2. Check the level of fluid in the system. It should be
level with the iron plate at the bottom of the filler neck. Coolant
NOTE
Only use a high-quality ethylene glycol-based anti-
Excess coolant (above proper level) will be
expelled when coolant reaches operating freeze designed for aluminum engines. Mix the antifreeze
temperature. with water in a 50150 ratio. Coolant capacity is listed in
Table 4. When mixing antifreeze with water, use only soft
3. If the exhaust manifold is not properly filled, add cool- or distilled water. Distilled water can be purchased at su-
ant. Refer to the Coolant section in this chapter for proper permarkets in gallon containers. Do not use tap or salt wa-
coolant. ter because it will damage engine parts.

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 OPERATION, LUBRICATION, MAINTENANCE AND TUNE-UP 55

FRESHWATER HEAT EXCHANGER

(TYPICAL)

Seawater

Freshwater

Seawater

WARNING
Do not siphon coolant by mouth with a hose.
The coolant mixture is poisonous and in-
gesting even a very small amount may cause
illness. Observe warning labels on anti-
freeze containers. Make sure to discard used
antifreeze in a safe and suitable manner and
wipe up any spills. Do not store antifreeze in
open containers. Keep antifreeze out of the
reach of children and animals.

W tank WARNING
The EPA has classz3ed ethylene glycol as an
environmental toxic waste. It is illegal to

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 56 CHAPTER THREE

flush it down a drain or pour it on the

ground. Put it in suitable containers and
dispose of it according to local regulations.

CAUTION
Be careful not to spill antifreeze on painted
surfaces, as it may damage the surface.
Wash any spilled antifreeze immediately
with soapy watel; then rinse the area thor-
oughly with clean water:

Flushing and refilling freshwater coolant system

Use the following procedure to flush and refill the

freshwater coolant system. Refer to the preceding section
to flush the seawater portion of a freshwater coolant sys-
tem.
Replace the coolant in the freshwater coolant system af-
ter every 500 hours of operation or annually, whichever
occurs first.

CAUTION
Perform the following procedure when the
engine is cold.

1. Remove the pressure fill cap (Figure 24).

NOTE
Position the drain hoses in suitable contain-
ers to catch coolant when draining the cool-
antfrom the exhaust manifold and engine.

2. Open the drain valve at the end of the heat exchanger

(A, Figure 27) and the drain plug on the underside of the
exhaust manifold (B).
3. Unscrew the drain plug on the side of the engine block
(Figure 28, typical).
4. If an excessive accumulation of scale is apparent on
the interior of the cooling system, use an automotive cool-
ing system cleaner. Be sure to thoroughly flush out the
cooling system with freshwater afterward. BATTERY
5. Close the drain plug on the exhaust manifold and the
drain plug on the engine block. Inspect the electrical connections and make sure they
6A. Engines without a remote reservoir-Fill the exhaust are secure and corrosion-free.If corrosion is present at the
manifold with coolant. The coolant should be level with terminal ends, detach the wires, clean the corrosion and
the iron plate at the bottom of the filler neck. reattach. Make sure that wires are correctly routed and
6B. Engines with a remote reservoir-Pour coolant into will not contact moving parts or touch hot (especially ex-
the exhaust manifold so it is full. Install the pressure fill haust) parts.
cap, then add coolant to the remote reservoir tank to the Remove the battery vent caps and check battery electro-
proper level. lyte level. It should be about 3/16 in. above the plates or
7. Run the engine until it reaches normal operating tem- even with the bottom of the filler wells. See Figure 29.
perature, then let the engine cool. Recheck the coolant Test the battery condition with a hydrometer (Figure 30).
level and, if necessary, add coolant. See Chapter Nine.

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 OPERATION. LUBRICATION. MAINTENANCE AND TUNE-UP 57

@ BATTERY CUTAWAY VIEW

necessary to restore and maintain maximum power and

performance.
Perform an engine tune-up as needed at periodic inter-
vals to maintain maximum engine performance. If the en-
gine is used infrequently, perform a tune-up at least once a
season.
A tune-up consists of the following:

m
1. Compression test.
2. Valve adjustment.
+ Hydrometer 3. Idle speed adjustment.
Careful and accurate adjustment is crucial to a success-
ful engine tune-up. Each procedure in this section must be
Read with performed exactly as described and in the order presented.
hydrometer level
NOTE
Some engine settings, such as maximum en-
gine speed and torque level, are controlled
by adjusting screws in the governor assem-
bly. These adjusting screws are set by the
manufacturer and secured by a lockwire to
prevent unauthorized adjustment. Adjust-
ment of these screws should be performed
only by trained personnel. Detaching a
lockwire may void the engine warranty. Im-
proper adjustment can cause engine dam-
ENGINE TUNE-UP age.

A smooth-running, dependable marine engine is more Compression Test

than a convenience. At sea, it can be the difference be-
tween life and death. To keep the engine running right, Check the compression of each cylinder as the first step
follow a regular program of preventive maintenance. in a tune-up. A compression test measures the compres-
Part of any preventive maintenance program is a thor- sion pressure at the end of the compression stroke. Its re-
ough engine tune-up. A tune-up is a series of adjustments sults can be used to assess general cylinder and valve

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 OPERATION, LUBRICATION, MAINTENANCE AND TUNE-UP 59

CAUTION
@ ADJUSTMENT
VALVE CLEARANCE
(ALL MODELS)
Always rotate the crankshaft in the normal
running direction (clockwise at crankshaft
pulley); otherwise the water pump impeller
will be damaged.
Adjusting screw
4. Rotate the crankshaft nut clockwise so the 1T mark on
the flywheel aligns with the reference pointer (B, Figure
31) on the clutch cover. The piston must be on its com-
pression stroke.

NOTE
Some transmissions do not have an opening
in the clutch covel: Remove the starter to
view the timing marks on the flywheel(Fig-
ure 33).
NOTE

@ IDLE SPEED ADJUSTMENT

(1GM AND 1 GM1O MODELS)
When thepiston is on its compression stroke
and at top dead centel; both valves will be
closed. This can be determined by the posi-
tion of the intake and exhaust rocker arms.
Both should have free play, which indicates
that the valves are closed.

5. Measure the clearance between the rocker arm and

Idle valve stem (Figure 34). Correct valve clearance is 0.2 mm
speed (0.008 in.).
screw
6. If the clearance is incorrect, loosen the locknut, then
rotate the adjusting screw on the rocker arm (Figure 34).
Hold the adjusting screw, then tighten the locknut. Re-
check the valve clearance.
7A. 2GM and 2GM20 engines-Rotate the crankshaft
360" so the 2T mark on the flywheel aligns with the refer-
ence pointer (B, Figure 31) on the clutch cover. The pis-
ton for number 2 cylinder must be on its compression
stroke (see preceding NOTE). Perform Steps 5 and 6.
rough engine operation and possible engine damage, such 7B. 3GM, 3GM30, 3HM and 3HM35 engines-Rotate
as burnt valves. Excessive valve clearance will reduce en- the crankshaft 240" so the 3T mark on the flywheel aligns
gine performance. The recommended interval for valve with the reference pointer (B, Figure 31) on the clutch
adjustment is after every 300 hours of operation. How- cover. The piston for number 3 cylinder must be on its
ever, it is a good practice to check the valve clearances compression stroke (see preceding NOTE). Perform Steps
during each tune-up. 5 and 6.
The engine must be cold when adjusting valve clear- 8. Reinstall the rocker arm cover.
ance. On multicylinderengines, the cylinder nearest the
flywheel is the number one cylinder. Idle Speed Adjustment
1. Remove the rocker arm cover as described in Chapter
Five or Six. The correct idle speed is 825-875 rpm. Refer to the fol-
2. Observe the flywheel (A, Figure 31) through the open- lowing procedure to adjust the idle speed.
ing in the clutch cover. A cylinder is at top dead center if 1. Run the engine until it reaches normal operating tem-
the mark on the flywheel is aligned with the reference perature.
pointer (B) on the clutch cover. 2. Place the transmission in neutral.
3. Rotate the crankshaft with a wrench on the crankshaft 3. Loosen the jam nut on the idle speed screw (Figure 35
pulley retaining nut (Figure 32). or Figure 36).

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 OPERATION, LUBRICATION, MAINTENANCE AND TUNE-UP 61

Transmission Oil Level Check screw it in. Pull out the dipstick and read the oil level on
the dipstick.
Check the transmission oil level on a weekly basis.
1. With the boat at rest in the water and the engine off, un- 2. Add oil, if necessary, through the dipstick hole so the
screw the dipstick (Figure 39, typical). Wipe it with a oil level reaches the full mark on the dipstick. Use the oil
clean rag or paper towel. Reinsert the dipstick, but do not recommended in the preceding section.

Table I MAINTENANCE SCHEDULE

Daily Check fuel level
Check engine oil level
Weekly Check battery
Check air filter
Check transmission oil level
Check drive belt tension
Check electrical wiring
Every 50 hours Clean fuel filter
Every 100 hours Change engine oil
Drain fuel tank
Every 250 hours Replace air filter element
Replace fuel filter element
Change transmission oil
Every 300 hours Replace engine oil filter
Adjust engine valves
Every 500 hours Inspect thermostat
Every 1500 hours Inspect seawater pump
Every 2000 hours Replace thermostat
Annually Replace freshwater (closed system) antifreeze

Table 2 ENGINE OIL VISCOSITY

Ambient Temperature Oil viscosity
Below 50" F (10" C) 1OW, 20W or 20120W
- -
50" 68" F ( l o 20" C) 20 or 20120W
-
6s. - 95O F (20" 35" C) 30 or 40
Above 95" F (35" C) 50

Table 3 ENGINE OIL CRANKCASE CAPACITY

- -

Model Oil capacity

lGM, lGM10 1.4 qt. (1.3 L)
2GM, 2GM20 2.1 qt. (2.0 L)
3GM, 3GM30 2.8 qt. (2.6 L)
3HM, 3HM35 5.7 qt. (5.4 L)

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 CHAPTER THREE

Table 4 FRESHWATER (CLOSED) COOLING SYSTEM CAPACITY

Model Capacity I
2.9 L (0.77 gal.)
3.4 L (0.9 gal.)
4.9 L (1.3 gal.)

Table 5 TUNE-UP SPECIFICATIONS

Idle rpm Full throttle rpm Fuel injection Valve clearance
Model (no-load) (no-load) timing
25" BTDC 0.2 m (0.008 in.)
15" BTDC 0.2 m (0.008 in.)
25" BTDC 0.2 m (0.008 in.)
25" BTDC 0.2 m (0.008 in.)
15" BTDC 0.2 m (0.008 in.)
15" BTDC 0.2 rn (0.008 in.)
28" BTDC 0.2 m (0.008 in.)
28" BTDC 0.2 m (0.008 in.)
28" BTDC 0.2 m (0.008 in.)
18" BTDC 0.2 m (0.008 in.)
18" BTDC 0.2 m (0.008 in.)
28" BTDC 0.2 m (0.008 in.)
28" BTDC 0.2 m (0.008 in.)
21" BTDC 0.2 m (0.008 in.)
21" BTDC 0.2 m (0.008 in.)

Table 6 Compression Specifications

Pressure Maximum difference
(all models) between cylinders

I 390-470 psi
(2700-3800 kPa)
43 psi
(300 kPa)

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 Chapter Four

Lay-up and Fitting Out

LAY-UP ber is specijied. For example, ifmodel 3GM

is called out in a procedure, the procedure
Boats that are stored for more than a month require also applies to 3GMD and 3GMF.
careful preparation for the lay-up. This is necessary to
prevent the engine from freezing. A thorough service will 1. Run the engine until it reaches normal operating tem-
also minimize damage from corrosion or fuel system con- perature.
tamination. Begin the service, if possible, while the boat 2. Change the engine oil and filter as described in Chapter
is still in the water. Three.
If the boat has been removed from the water, a supply of 3. Use a suitable engine fogging oil as instructed by the
cooling water must be made available to the engine. This oil manufacturer.
can be accomplished using a water hose attached to the
water pump inlet. Always start the water flow before 4. Thoroughly inspect the engine, including the cooling
starting the engine. and fuel systems. Perform service work that will protect
against damage during extended storage, such as replac-
CAUTION ing hoses and gaskets. Make a list of problems that should
Some of the following steps require water be corrected before the boat is returned to service.
for the cooling system. The boat must be in 5. If the engine is equipped with freshwater cooling, flush
the water, or a source of water must be con- and change the freshwater coolant as described in Chapter
nected to the seawater cooling pump. Three.
NOTE 6. Drain the seawater cooling system as described in this
Except where specified, F and D series en- chapter. Be sure to drain or blow out all portions of the
gines are included when a basic model num- system.

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 66 CHAPTER FOUR

able containers and dispose of it according done, determine if the work is easier, and possibly more
to local regulations. Make sure to wipe up economical, if performed before returning the engine to
any spills and cover any containers of anti- service.
freeze. Keep antifreeze out of the reach of 1. Remove all covers placed over engine openings during
children and animals.
lay-up.
3. Open the drain on the underside of the exhaust mani- 2. If the seawater cooling system is filled with an anti-
fold (Figure 1). freeze solution, drain the antifreeze from the system using
4. Open the drain on the engine block (Figure 2, typical). the draining procedure described for the seawater cooling
5. Allow the freshwater section to drain completely. system or the procedure for the seawater section if
6. On models equipped with a remote reservoir, discon- equipped with a freshwater (closed) cooling system.
nect the hose to the engine and drain the coolant from the 3. If left loose during lay-up, tighten the seawater pump
reservoir. Reconnect the hose. cover screws (Figure 3).
7. Close the drain plugs. 4. Adjust belt tension for the water pump and alternator
8. If refilling the freshwater section, refer to Chapter drive belts as described in Chapter Three.
Three for the filling procedure. 5. Replace all fuel filters.
6. If equipped with a fuel tank drain valve, open the drain
Seawater cooling section valve and remove any water that may have accumulated in
the tank.
Refer to the following procedure to drain the seawater
section. WARNING
1. Place a suitable container under the drain, if space per- Be sure to have a Coast Guard-approved
fire extinguisher on hand whenever working
mits. This will prevent water from draining into the bilge.
around fuel.
NOTE
Ifno waterflows from the drain, check the NOTE
drain to make sure it is not obstructed or Ifthe fuel in the fuel tank is dirty, old or con-
plugged. taminated with watel; drain orpump out the
fuel. Clean the tank and refill with fresh,
2. Open the drain on the underside of the exhaust mani- clean fuel. Although fuel filters will remove
fold end cap (Figure 2). most contaminants, excessively dirty fuel
may clog the filters or enter the engine,
3. Allow the water to drain completely, then close the
causing damage.
drain.
4. Loosen the cover screws on the seawater pump (Fig- 7. Bleed the fuel system as described in Chapter Seven.
ure 3) and drain any water in the pump. If the gasket is
8. Check the battery electrolyte level and fill if necessary.
damaged, remove the cover and install a new gasket and
Make certain the battery has a full charge; recharge if nec-
the cover.
essary. Clean the battery terminals and install the battery,
5. Remove the lower end of the cooling system hoses making sure the cables are connected properly. Cover the
from the pump and exhaust manifold. Lower the hoses battery terminals with a light coat of petroleum jelly.
and allow them to completely drain. Then reconnect the
hoses and clamp securely. 9. Check the crankcase oil level. Add oil, if necessary. If
the oil was not changed at time of lay-up or if the engine
NOTE has been in storage for an extended period of time, change
It is possible that undrained water may re- the oil and oil filter.
main. Protect the seawater cooling section 10. Move the engine control to the STOP position. Posi-
by filling it with an antifreeze solution. tion the decompression lever in the ON position. Engage
the starter and crank the engine for 30 seconds. This pro-
FITTING OUT cedure will pump engine oil to the engine bearings and
other engine parts.
Preparing the boat for use after storage is easier if the 11. On engines equipped with a freshwater cooling sys-
engine was properly prepared before storage. Refer to the tem, check the coolant. If the coolant is contaminated or
list of needed work that was to be performed before re- has reached its scheduled replacement time, drain, flush
turning the engine to service. If there is other work to be and refill the freshwater cooling system.

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 LAY-UP AND FITTING OUT 67

12. Thoroughly inspect the engine. Check for leakage, 15. Operate all engine controls to be sure they operate
rust or corrosion that will affect engine operation. Check properly and smoothly.
all hoses for deterioration and clamps for tightness. 16. Start and run engine. Check for oil and water leaks.
13. Check all through-hull fittings. Check engine operation.
14. Make sure water is available to the cooling system. 17. Tune-up engine as described in Chapter Three.

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 Chapter Five

Single-Cylinder Engines

This chapter covers the Yanmar 1GM and lGM 10 sin- pansion and exhaust cycle occur in the same sequence for
gle-cylinder, diesel engines. compression ignition engines as for spark ignition en-
The engine consists of a cast-iron cylinder block, con- gines. The major differences are how the fuel is intro-
taining a full-length water jacket around the cylinder. duced into the combustion chamber and how the ignition
The cranksliaft rotates counterclockwise as viewed is accomplished.
from the flywheel. Two main bearings support the crank- The principle of operation for compression ignition en-
shaft, with the front bearing providing the thrust surfaces. gines is to compress air in the cylinder without fuel; as the
The crankshaft gear drives the rotor-type oil pump located pressure increases, so does the temperature. The tempera-
in the lower front of the engine block. ture of the compressed air is sufficient to ignite the diesel
The camshaft is gear driven and located in the engine fuel injected into the cylinder. To achieve the required
block above the crankshaft. One end of the camshaft is high-compression pressure/temperature, diesel engines
supported by a ball bearing (front), and the other rides di- have compression ratios between 16:1 and 22: 1. These
rectly in the block (rear). In addition to operating the high compression ratios raise the cylinder air temperature
valves, the camshaft operates the fuel transfer pump and to approximately 1000" F. Diesel fuel will ignite at ap-
has an actuating lobe for the injection pump attached at proximately 750" F. Therefore, diesel fuel injected into
the front. the cylinder will immediately begin to bum.
Valve actuation is via mechanical lifters and pushrods A high-pressure fuel delivery system is necessary to in-
acting on the rocker arms mounted in the cylinder head. ject fuel into the cylinder. The injector pressure must be
Engine specifications (Table 1) and tightening torques higher than air pressure in the cylinder, and the fuel must
(Table 2) are located at the end of this chapter. be forced through the small openings in the fuel injector to
properly atomize the fuel. Refer to Chapter Seven for fuel
DIESEL ENGINE FUNDAMENTALS and governor system operation.
Refer to Figure 1. During the intake stroke, air is drawn
Diesel engines are compression ignition engines, as op- into the cylinder.
posed to gasoline engines, which are identified as spark During the compression stroke, the air is compressed to
ignition engines. The intake, compression, ignition, ex- raise its temperature. The seal between the piston and the

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 SINGLE-CYLINDER ENGINES 69

0 4-STROKE DIESEL ENGINE PRINCIPLES

As the piston travels downward, the exhaust When the crankshaft continues to rotate, the
valve closes and the intake valve opens, piston moves upward, compressing the air.
allowing air to be drawn into the cylinder. When
the piston reaches the bottom of its travel
(BDC), the intake valve closes and remains
closed for the next 1 112 revolutions of the
crankshaft.

Exhaust valve

As the piston almost reaches the top of its When the piston almost reaches BDC, the
travel, the injector sprays fuel into the exhaust valve opens and remains open until the
combustion chamber. The fuel is ignited by the piston is near TDC. The upward travel of the
heat of compression. The piston continues to piston forces the exhaust gases out of the
top dead center (TDC) and is pushed downward cylinder. After the piston has reached TDC, the
by the expanding gases. exhaust valve closes and the cycle repeats.

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 70 CHAPTER FIVE

Fuel injector

Open - chamber
chamber

cylinder must not permit compression leakage, which ENGINE SERIAL NUMBER AND CODE
could lower the temperature of the compressed air. Also,
the cylinder must not contain fuel that could ignite prema- The engine serial number and model designation are lo-
turely during compression. cated on a plate attached to the rocker cover (Figure 3).
Near the end of the compression stroke, fuel is injected The engine serial number is also stamped on the side of
into the cylinder and ignited by compressed air. Fuel in- the cylinder block (Figure 4).
jection continues during several degrees of crankshaft ro- Have the engine model number and serial number avail-
tation, depending upon desired speed and load. Expansion able when ordering parts. Record the engine model and
of the air caused by the burning fuel pushes the piston serial numbers and store them for future reference in case
down on the expansion (power) stroke. the identification plate on the engine is defaced or lost.
The exhaust valve opens just before the piston reaches
the bottom of travel. The exhaust valve remains open as
the piston moves upward pushing burned (exhausted) gas- REPLACEMENT PARTS
ses from the cylinder.
When installing new parts on the engine, make sure the
Different combustion chamber designs may be used on
part is designed for use on a marine engine. Automotive
diesel engines to accomodate specific engine operating
and marine engine parts may look similar; however, auto-
criteria. An open combustion chamber (direct injection)
motive parts may not be capable of operating in a harsh
design is illustrated in Figure 2. The fuel and air are con-
marine environment.
fined to one area. Usually the piston crown is concave to
form the combustion chamber and provide turbulence re- Use only Yanmar parts or parts approved for use on ma-
quired for mixing the fuel with the compressed air. The rine engines.
shape of the combustion chamber and the shape of the in-
jection spray pattern are matched so that fuel will be dis-
tributed evenly throughout the chamber. ENGINE REMOVAL PRECAUTIONS
The Yanmar engines covered in this manual are
Some service procedures can be performed with the en-
equipped with a precombustion chamber for each cylinder
gine in the boat; others require removal. The boat design
(Figure 2). The precombustion chamber increases com-
and service procedure to be performed determines
bustion efficiency, which produces greater power with re-
whether the engine must be removed.
duced emmissions. Combustion first occurs in the
precombustion chamber when hot, compressed air enters WARNING
the precombustion chamber just as fuel is injected. Com- The engine is heavy, awkward to handle and
bustion continues as the fuel and air are mixed and forced has sharp edges. It may shift or drop sud-
from the precombustion chamber into the engine cylinder. denly during removal. Toprevent serious in-
Additional mixing and ignition are completed in the cylin- jury, always observe the following
der. precautions.

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 SINGLE-CYLINDER ENGINES 77

1. Wear cap
2. Keys
3. Valve spring retainer
4. Valve spring
5. Valve seal
6. Valve guide
7. Valve

VALVES AND VALVE SEATS

Servicing the valves, guides and valve seats must be

done by a dealer or machine shop, as special knowledge
and expensive machine tools are required.
A general practice among those who do their own ser-
vice is to remove the cylinder head, perform all disassem-
bly except valve removal and take the head to a dealer or
machine shop for inspection and service. Since the cost is
low relative to the required effort and equipment, this is
usually the best approach, even for experienced mechan-
ics. The following procedures are provided to acquaint the
home mechanic with the procedure.

Valve Removal

Refer to Figure 22.

1. Remove the cylinder head as described in this chapter.
2. Remove the rocker shaft assembly as described in this
chapter.
3. Remove the wear cap (1, Figure 22) on the valve stem.
4. Compress the valve spring with a compressor like the
one shown in Figure 23.

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 78 CHAPTER FIVE

T Valve head thickness

'r-
5. Remove the valve keys (2, Figure 22) and release the
spring tension.
6. Remove the valve spring retainer and valve spring.

CAUTION
Remove any burrs from the valve stem lock
grooves (Figure 24) before removing the
valve to prevent damage to the valve guide.

7. Remove the valve.

8. Remove and discard the valve stem seal (5, Figure
22).
9. Repeat Steps 3-8 for the remaining valve.

Inspection

1. Clean the valves with a fine wire brush or buffing

wheel. Discard any cracked, warped or burned valves.
2. Measure the valve stems at the top, center and bottom
for wear. A machine shop can do this when the valves are
ground.

NOTE
Check the thickness of the valve edge or
margin after the valves have been ground.
See Figure 25. Any valve with a margin less
than 0.75 mm (0.030 in.) should be dis- 4. Insert each valve into the guide from which it was re-
carded. moved. Holding the valve just slightly off its seat, rock it
back and forth in a direction parallel with the rocker arms.
3. Remove all carbon and varnish from the valve guides
This is the direction in which the greatest wear normally
with a stiff spiral wire brush.
occurs. If the valve stem rocks more than slightly, the
NOTE valve guide is probably worn.
The next step assumes that all valve stems 5. If there is any doubt about valve guide condition after
have been measured and are within speczfi- performing Step 4, measure the valve guide. Compare the
cations. Replace valves with worn stems be- results with specifications in Table 1. Worn guides must
fore performing this step. be replaced.

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 SINGLE-CYLINDER ENGINES 79

8. Check each spring on a flat surface with a steel square.

See Figure 27. Slowly revolve the spring 360" and note
the space between the top of the coil and the square. If it
exceeds 1.4 mm (0.055 in.) at any point, replace the
spring.
9. Check the valve guides (Figure 28) for wear and
looseness. Refer to Table 1 for valve guide specifications.
A loose valve guide must be replaced.

Valve Guide Replacement

Valve The cylinder head is equipped with replaceable valve
guides (6, Figure 22). The intake and exhaust valve
guides are identical. Take the cylinder head to a dealership
or machine shop if valve guide replacement is required.
When installing the valve guides, the grooved end must
be toward the top of the cylinder head. The groove must
be flush with the head surface as shown in Figure 29.
Val
gui
PUSH RODS

1 . Remove the rocker arms as previously described.

2. Remove the push rods and mark them so they can be
reinstalled in their original positions.
3. Inspect push rod ends for damage. Maximum allow-
able runout is 0.03 mm (0.0012 in.).
4. Reinstall the push rods by reversing removal proce-
dure. Adjust valve clearance as described in Chapter
Three.

PISTONICONNECTING ROD ASSEMBLY

6. Test the valve springs under load on a spring tester
(Figure 26). Replace any spring that does not meet the Piston/Connecting Rod Removal
specification in Table 1.
1. Remove the engine as described in this chapter.
7. Inspect the valve seats. If worn or burned, they must be 2. Place a suitable container under the oil pan and remove
reconditioned. This is a job for a dealer or machine shop, the drain plug. Let the crankcase oil drain, then reinstall
although the procedure is described in this chapter. the drain plug.

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 80 CHAPTER FIVE

3. Remove the cylinder head as described in this chapter.

NOTE
Note the location of the long screw when re-
moving the oil pan retaining screws.

4. Remove the oil pan.

5. Rotate the crankshaft until the piston is at bottom dead
center. Pack the cylinder bore with clean shop rags. Re-
move the carbon ridge at the top of the cylinder bore with
a ridge reamer. These can be rented for use. Vacuum out
the shavings, then remove the shop rags.
6. Rotate the crankshaft until the connecting rod is cen-
tered in the bore. Measure the connecting rod side clear- Piston Pin RemovaYInstallation
ance with a flat feeler gauge (Figure 30). If the clearance
exceeds specifications (Table I), replace the connecting The steel piston pin rides directly in the piston and the
rod during reassembly. connecting rod bushing. Circlips at each end retain the
7. Remove the connecting rod bolts. Lift off the cap, piston pin in the piston.
along with the lower bearing insert. 1. Before removing the piston, place the crankshaft end
of the connecting rod in a vise with soft jaws. Rock the
8. Use a wooden hammer handle to push the piston and
piston as shown in Figure 32. Any rocking motion (do not
connecting rod from the bore.
confuse with the normal sliding motion) indicates wear on
9. Remove the piston rings with a ring remover (Figure the piston pin, piston pin bore or connecting rod small end
31). bore (or a combination of these).

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 SINGLE-CYLINDER ENGINES -- 81

Piston
rings

Piston pin

A Bore

Connecting
rod

Rod cap

with a hair dryer. Separate the piston from the connecting

rod.

PistonICylinder Bore Check

Bolts
Unless precision measuring equipment is available,
have this procedure done by a machine shop.
1. Measure the piston diameter with a micrometer (Fig-
2. Remove the clip from each side of the piston pin bore ure 34) at a right angle to the piston pin bore 9 mm (0.35
(Figure 33) with a small screwdriver or scribe. Hold a in.) from the bottom of the piston skirt.
thumb over one edge of the clip when removing it to pre- 2. Measure the cylinder bore diameter at several points
vent the clip from springing out. with a bore gauge (Figure 35). Figure 36 shows the
points of normal cylinder wear. If dimension A exceeds
3. Use a wooden dowel or suitable tool and push out the dimension B by more than 0.02 mm (0.0008 in.), rebore
piston pin. If the pin is difficult to remove, heat the piston the cylinder and install a new pistonlring assembly.

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 82 CHAPTER FIVE

Cylinder
block
surface

7
3. If the cylinder bore is damaged or excessively worn,
rebore the cylinder bore and install a new piston. If the
piston is worn, but the cylinder bore is acceptable, install a Piston Ring FitIInstallation
new piston.

NOTE 1. Check the ring gap of each piston ring. To do this, posi-
Provide the machine shop with the newpis- tion the ring at the bottom of the ring travel area and
ton so the cylinder can be bored to the cor- square it by tapping gently with an inverted piston. See
rect dimension. Figure 37.

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 SINGLE-CYLINDER ENGINES

ing it out with an appropriate size drift or 4. Coat the inside diameter of the plug bore and the outer
pin punch. When removing a large core diameter of the new plug with sealer. Use an oil-resistant
plug, the use of a universal impact slide sealer if the plug is to be installed in an oil gallery or a wa-
hammer is recommended. ter-resistant sealer for plugs installed in the water jacket.
5. Install the new core plug with an appropriate size core
plug installation tool (Figure 92), driver or socket. The
3. Clean the plug bore thoroughly to remove all traces of outside edge of the plug should be 2-3 mm (0.08-0.12 in.)
the old sealer. Inspect the bore for any damage
- that might
- inside the block.
interfere with proper sealing of the new plug. 6. Repeat Steps 1-5 to replace each remaining core plug.

Table 1 ENGINE SPECIFICATIONS (1OM, 1GMl 0 )

Bore 75 mm (2.95 in.)
Stroke 72 mm (2.83 in.)
Displacement 318 cc (19.4 cu. in.)
Number of cylinders 1
Cylinder bore diameter 75.000-75.030 mm (2.9528-2.9540in.)
Bore out-of-round-max. 0.02 mm (0.0008 in.)
Cylinder block warpage--max. 0.07 mm (0.0028 in.)
Piston diameter
Standard 74.910-74.940 mm (2.9492-2.9504in.)
Wear limit 74.850 mm max. (2.9468 in.)
Piston top clearance 0.68-0.88 mm (0.027-0.035 in.)
Piston ring side clearance
Top ring 0.065-0.100 mm (0.0026-0.0039in.)
Second ring 0.035-0.070mm (0.0014-0.0028 in.)
Oil ring 0.020-0.055 mm (0.0008-0.0022in.)
Ring end gap (all rings) 0.20-0.40 mm (0.008-0.016in.)
Piston pin diameter 19.991-20.000 mm (0.7870-0.7874in.)
Piston pin hole diameter
In piston 19.995-20.008 mm (0.7872-0.7877in.)
In rod 20.000 mm (0.7874 in.)
Piston pin clearance
In rod 0.025-0.047 mm (0.0010-0.0019 in.)
In piston 0.005 mm tight-0.017 mm loose
(0.0002 in. tight-0.0007 in. loose)
Piston ring width
Top 81second ring 1.97-1.99 mm (0.0776-0.0783in.)
Oil control ring 3.97-3.99 mm (0.1563-0.1571 in.)
Crankshaft main journal'diameter
Timing gear end 43.950-43.964mm (1.7303-1.7309in.)
Flywheel end 59.950-59.964 mm (2.3602-2.3608in.)
Journal out-of-round-max. 0.01 mm (0.0004 in.)
Crankshaft end play 0.06-0.19 mm (0.0024-0.0075in.)
Crankshaft runout-max. 0.1 5 mm (0.006 in.)
Main bearing clearance
Timing gear end 0.036-0.092 mm (0.0014-0.0036 in.)
Flywheel end 0.036-0.095 mm (0.0014-0.0037 in.)
Crankshaft thrust bearing--inin.
Front 2.75 mm (0.108 in.)
Inner 2.25 mm (0.089in.)
Crankpin diameter 39.950-39.964 mm (1.5728-1.5734in.)
Journal out-of-round-max. 0.01 mm (0.0004 in.)
Crankpin bearing clearance 0.028-0.086 mm (0.0011-0.0034 in.)
Connecting rod side clearance 0.2-0.4 mm (0.008-0.016in.)
Cylinder head warpage--max. 0.07 mm (0.003 in.)
lcontinuedl

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 98 CHAPTER FIVE

Table 1 ENGINE SPECIFICATIONS I1GM. 1OM101 (continued1

Camshaft
Valve lobe lift
Fuel pump lobe lift
Journal diameter
- 29.000 mm(1 .I417in.)
22.000 mm(0.8661 in.)
20.000 mm(0.7874 in.)
Runout 0.02 mm max.(0.0008 in. max.)
Timing gear backlash 0.05-0.13 mm(0.002-0.005 in.)
Maximum allowable 0.3 mm(0.012 in.)
Push rod runout-max. 0.03 mm(0.0012 in.)
Valve lifter
TYpe Mechanical
Outside diameter 10.000 mm(0.3937 in.)
Outside diameter-min. 9.95 mm(0.3917 in.)
Clearance in block 0.025-0.060 mm(0.0010-0.0024 In.)
Max. clearance 0.10 mm(0.004 in.)
Valve face angle 45"
Valve seat angle 45"
Valve head margin 0.75-1.15 mm(0.030-0.045in.)
Seat width (int. and exh.) 1.77 mm(0.070 in.)
Valve depth-max. 1.25 mm(0.049 in.)
Valve stem clearance (int. and exh.) 0.045-0.070mm (0.0018-0.0028in.)
Max. stem clearance 0.15 mm(0.006 In.)
Valve stem diameter 7.000 mm(0.2756 mm)
Valve stem wear limit 6.900 mm(0.2717 in.)
Valve stem runout-max. 0.03 mm(0.0012 In.)
Valve guide diameter 7.000 mm(0.2756 mm)
Valve guide wear limit 7.080 mm(0.2878 in.)
Valve guide protrusion 7.0 mm(0.276 In.)
Valve spring
Standard free length 38.5 mm(1 52 in.)
Min. free length 37 mm(1.46 In.)
Installed height 29.2 mm(1.15 in.)
Pressure at installed height 16.16 kg at 29.2 mm
(35.63 Ib. at 1.15 in.)
Rocker arm shaft clearance 0.016-0.052 mm(0.0006-0.0020in.)
Rocker arm shaft clearancemax. 0.15 mm(0.006 in.)
Rocker arm bore wear limit 12.10 mm(0.476 in.)
Rocker arm shaft wear limit 11.90 mm(0.468 in.)
Oil pump
Inner rotor tip-to-outer rotor tip 0.050-0.105 mm (0.002W.0041in.)
Max. 0.15 mm(0.006 in.)
Outer rotor-to-pump body 0.050-0.105 mm(0.0020-0.0041 in.)
Max. 0.15 mm(0.006 in.)
Rotor side clearance 0.030-0.080mm
Max. 0.13 mm(0.005 in.)
Shaft clearance 0.015-0.050mm(0.0006-0.0020 in.)
Max. 0.20 mm(0.0079 In.)

Table 2 TIGHTENING TORQUES

Fastener N*m ft.-lb. in.-lb. I
Camshaft gear 70-80 52-59 -
Connecting rod bolts 25 18 -
Crankshaft nut 80-100 59-74 -
Cylinder head nut 75 55 -
Exhaust elbow 45 33 -
Flywheel 65-70 48-52 -
Main bearing housing 25 18 -
Oil pump 9 - 80
Rocker shaft support 37 27 -
Timing gearcase 9 - 80

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 ChapterSix

MulticylinderEngines

This chapter covers the Yanmar 2GM, 2GM20, 3GM, Valve actuation is via mechanical lifters and pushrods
3GM30, 3HM and 3HM35 multicylinder, marine diesel acting on the rocker arms mounted in the cylinder head.
engines. The cylinders on 2GM and 2GM20 engines are num-
The engine consists of a cast iron cylinder block with bered from rear (flywheel) to front (timing gearcase): 1-2.
full-length water jackets around each cylinder. 2GM, The cylinders on 3GM, 3GM30,3HM and 3HM35 en-
3GM, 3HM (including F and D series) engines have re- gines are numbered from rear (flywheel) to front (timing
placeable cast iron cylinder liners. gearcase): 1-2-3. The firing order is 1-2-3.
Crankshaft rotation is counterclockwise as viewed from Engine specifications (Tables 1-3) and tightening
the flywheel. On two cylinder engines, the crankshaft op- torques (Table 4) are located at the end of this chapter.
erates in three main bearings, with the center bearing pro- Refer to Chapter Five for diesel engine fundamentals.
viding the thrust surfaces. On three cylinder engines, the
crankshaft operates in four main bearings, with the third NOTE
bearing providing the thrust surfaces. The crankshaft gear Except where specified, F and D series en-
drives the rotor-type oil pump located in the lower front of gines are included when a basic model num-
the engine block. ber is speciJied. For example, ifmodel 3GM
is called out in a procedure, the procedure
The camshaft is gear driven and located in the block also applies to 3GMD and 3GMF
above the crankshaft. One end of the camshaft is sup-
ported by a ball bearing (front) and the other rides directly
in the block (rear). ENGINE SERIAL NUMBER AND CODE
On three cylinder engines, the camshaft is equipped
with two additional bearings. In addition to operating the The engine serial number and model designation plate
valves, the camshaft operates the fuel transfer pump and is attached to the timing gearcase (Figure 1). The engine
has an actuating lobe for the injection pump attached at serial number is also stamped on the side of the cylinder
the front. block (Figure 2).

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 100 CHAPTER SIX

Have the engine model number and serial number avail-

able when ordering parts. Record the engine model and
serial numbers and store them for future reference in case
the identification plate on the engine is defaced or lost.

REPLACEMENT PARTS

When installing new parts on the engine, make sure the

part is designed for use on a marine engine. Automotive
and marine engine parts may look similar; however, auto-
motive parts may not be capable of operating in a harsh
marine environment.
Use only Yanmar parts or parts approved for use on ma-
rine engines.

ENGINE

Precautions

Some service procedures can be performed with the en-

gine in the boat; others require removal. The boat design
and service procedure to be performed determines
whether the engine must be removed.

WARNING
The engine is heavy, awkward to handle and
has sharp edges. It may shift or drop sud-
denly during removal. To prevent serious in-
jury, always observe the following
precautions.

1. Never place any part of your body where a moving or

falling engine may trap, cut or crush you.
2. If you must push the engine during removal, use a
board or similar tool to keep your hands out of danger.
the freshwater system, if so equipped, as described in
3. Be sure the hoist is designed to lift engines and has Chapter Four.
enough load capacity for the engine. 3. Disconnect the intake water hose from the seawater
4. Be sure the hoist is securely attached to safe lifting cooling pump.
points on the engine. 4. Close the fuel shutoff valve and disconnect the fuel line
5. The engine should not be difficult to lift with a proper and the fuel return line.
hoist. If it is, stop lifting, lower the engine back onto its 5. Disconnect the remote control cables.
mounts and make sure the engine has been completely 6. Disconnect the electrical wiring harness connectors.
separated from the vessel. 7. Disconnect the electrical wires from the electric starter
motor and solenoid that will interfere with engine
removal.
8. Detach the exhaust system.
While specific procedures cannot address all engine in- 9. Detach the driveshaft from the transmission output
stallations, refer to the following general instructions flange.
when removing the engine. 10. Remove the engine retaining bolts.
1. Detach the negative battery cable from the negative bat- 11. Remove the engine and transmission.
tery terminal. 12. Remove the transmission from the engine as described
2. Close the seacock. Drain the cooling system, including in Chapter Ten or Eleven.

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 MULTICYLINDER ENGINES 101

VALVE COVER
- (2GM, 2GM2093GM AND 3GM30 MODELS)

1. Valve cover
2. Gasket
3. O-ring
4. Decompression shaft
5. Decompression lever
6. Washer
7. Nut
8. Spring
9. Detent bail
10. Oil fill cap
11. O-ring
12. Nut
13. O-ring
14. Pin
15. Breather
16. Gasket
17. Hose
18. Baffle

13. Engine installation is the reverse of removal, plus the 2. Disconnect the breather hose.
following: 3. Unscrew the retaining nuts.
a. Tighten the engine mounting bolts securely. 4. Remove the valve cover.
b. Securely tighten the output flange-to-driveshaft 5. Remove the gasket.
bolts. 6. Clean the gasket surfaces on the valve cover and cylin-
c. Bleed the fuel system at the fuel filter as described der head.
under Fuel Filter in Chapter Three. 7. Reverse the removal steps to install the valve cover.
d. Refill the freshwater cooling system, if so equipped,
as described in Chapter Eight.
BREATHER ASSEMBLY

VALVE COVER The crankcase breather is located in the valve cover.

Refer to Chapter Three for a description of breather opera-
Refer to Figure 3 and Figure 4 for an exploded view of tion.
the valve cover assembly. To service the breather, proceed as follows:
To remove the valve cover, proceed as follows: 1. Remove the valve cover.
1. Be sure the decompression lever is in the OFF position. 2. Remove the breather cover.

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 102 CHAPTER SIX

VALVE COVER
3HM AND 3HM35 MODELS

1. Valve cover
2. Gasket
3. O-ring
4. Decompression shaft
5. Decompression lever
6. Washer
7. Nut
8. Spring
9. Detent ball
10. Oil fill cap
11. O-ring
12. Nut
13. O-ring
14. Pin
15. Breather
16. Gasket
17. Hose
18. Upper baffle
19. Filter
20. Lower baffle

3. Clean the breather components and valve cover using If the mechanism must be repaired, proceed as follows:
solvent. Be sure the drain hole in the valve cover is open. 1. Remove the valve cover as previously described.
4. 3HM and 3HM3.5 models-Replace the mesh breather
element if it cannot be cleaned or if it is damaged. 2. Using a suitable punch, drive out the retaining pin.
5. Reassemble the breather by reversing the disassembly
procedure. Note that the lower baffle (20, Figure 4) on NOTE
3HM and 3HM35 engines is smaller than the upper plate The detent ball and spring will be loose
when you remove the shaft assembly in Step
(18).
3.

3. Remove the shaft assembly from the valve cover.

DECOMPRESSION MECHANISM
4. Inspect the mechanism and replace the damaged parts.
The decompression mechanism on the valve cover
5. Reverse the removal procedure to reassemble the de-
forces the exhaust valves open to reduce compression
compression mechanism. Note the following:
pressure in the cylinders. Reducing compression pressure
enables the starter to rotate the crankshaft faster during a. Assemble the shaft and lever so the lever points up
starting. Refer to Figure 3 and Figure 4. while the flat on the valve end of the shaft is down.

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 MULTICYLINDER ENGINES 103

2GM AND 2GM2O

MODELS

EXHAUST MANIFOLD 2. Loosen the hose clamps and remove the water hose
from the exhaust elbow and thermostat housing.
On 2GM models, the exhaust manifold is an elbow that 3. Remove the exhaust elbow from the cylinder head.
is attached to the cylinder head (Figure 5). A hose from 4. Clean any gasket residue from the exhaust elbow and
the thermostat cover directs cooling water into the exhaust cylinder head.
elbow. 5. Check the exhaust elbow for warpage, carbon buildup
On 3GM models, the exhaust manifold contains water and corrosion.
passages that allow water to cool the manifold. A hose 6. Reinstall the exhaust elbow by reversing the removal
from the thermostat cover directs cooling water into the procedure. Tighten the retaining nuts to the torque speci-
exhaust manifold (Figure 5). A hose from the exhaust fied in Table 2.
manifold directs water from the exhaust manifold into the
exhaust elbow.
The exhaust manifold on 2GMF, 2GM20F, 3GMF, 3GM, 3GM30,3HM and 3HM35 models
3GM30F, 3HMF and 3HM35F models is combined with with seawater cooling
the coolant reservoir for the freshwater (closed) cooling
system (Figure 6). Refer to Chapter Eight for a descrip- Refer to Figure 5.
tion of the freshwater (closed) cooling system. 1. Detach the exhaust hose from the exhaust elbow.
2. Loosen the hose clamps and remove the water hose
from the exhaust manifold and thermostat housing.
Removal and Installation
3. Open the drain valve on the underside of the exhaust
manifold.
2GM models
4. Remove the exhaust manifold from the cylinder head.
Refer to Figure 5. 5. If necessary, remove the water hose and exhaust elbow
1. Detach the exhaust hose from the exhaust elbow. from the exhaust manifold.

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 104 CHAPTER SIX

EXHAUST MANIFOLD WITH CLOSED COOLING SYSTEM

(TYPICAL)

1. Seawater pump
2. Hose
3. End cap
4. Gasket
5. O-ring
6. Pin
7. Heat exchanger
8. Cap
9. Filler neck
10. Gasket
11. Exhaust maniflold/reservoir
12. End cap
13. Elbow
14. Stud
15. Hose
16. Gasket
17. Elbow
18. Drain valve
19. Remote reservoir
20. Gasket
21. Drain fitting
22. Drain valve
23. Hose
24. Hose
25. Elbow
26. Gasket
27. Thermostat
28. Freshwater pump
29. Gasket
30. Coolant termperature sensor
31. Housing

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 MULTICYLINDER ENGINES 105

cooling system with coolant as described in Chapter

Three.

CYLINDER HEAD
M-
Removal

In some instances, the cylinder head may be removed

for service without removing the engine. If engine re-
moval is necessary, refer to the engine removal procedure.
Refer to Figure 8 for an exploded view of the cylinder
head assembly.
To remove the cylinder head, proceed as follows:
Exhaust manifold
Cover
- 1. Disconnect the negative battery cable from the nega-
tive battery terminal.
2. If not previously performed, drain the cooling system
as described in Chapter Four.
3. Remove the alternator as described in Chapter Eight.
6. Clean any gasket residue from the exhaust manifold 4. Remove the exhaust manifold as previously described.
and cylinder head.
5. Disconnect the wire lead from the water temperature
7. Remove the exhaust manifold cover retaining screws
sender (Figure 9).
and remove the manifold cover (Figure 7).
6A. Engines with standard cooling-Disconnect the
8. Inspect the exhaust manifold and cover for warpage,
lower water hose (Figure 9) from the thermostat housing.
carbon buildup and corrosion.
6B. Engines with freshwater (closed) cooling sys-
9. Reinstall the exhaust manifold and cover by reversing
tem-Remove the freshwater pump as described in Chap-
the removal procedure. Tighten the retaining nuts to the
ter Eight.
torque specified in Table 2.
7. Remove the air cleaner and the air cleaner base.
8. Remove the fuel injector and precombustion chamber
2GME; 2GM208 3GME 3GM30E; 3HMF and as described in Chapter Seven.
3HM35F models with freshwater (closed) 9. Remove the valve cover as previously described.
cooling system 10. Remove the nuts that retain the rocker arm stands
(Figure lo), then remove the rocker shaft assembly.
Refer to Figure 6.
11. Remove the push rods and mark them so they can be
1. Refer to Chapter Four and drain the cooling system.
reinstalled in their original positions.
2. Detach the exhaust hose from the exhaust elbow.
12. Detach the oil line fitting from the cylinder head.
3. Remove the water hose from the exhaust manifold and
13. Unscrew the smaller cylinder head retaining bolts
thermostat housing.
first, then unscrew the larger bolts and nuts in a crossing
4. Remove the water hose from the exhaust manifold and
pattern.
freshwater pump.
14. Remove the cylinder head and head gasket.
5. Disconnect the water hoses from the manifold end
caps.
6. Disconnect the water hose to the overflow tank. Inspection
7. Remove the exhaust manifold from the cylinder head.
8. Clean any gasket residue from the exhaust manifold 1. Refer to the Anticorrosion Maintenance section in
and cylinder head. Chapter Three. Remove and inspect the sacrificial anode.
9. Check the exhaust manifold for warpage, carbon Install the anode in the cylinder head after completing cyl-
buildup and corrosion. inder head service.
10. If necessary, refer to Chapter Eight to service the heat 2. If service to the valves or rocker assembly is required,
exhanger inside the exhaust manifold. refer to the valves and Rocker Assembly sections.
11. Reverse the removal procedure to install the exhaust 3. Check the cylinder head for signs of oil or water leak-
manifold. Tighten the manifold bolts to the torque speci- age before cleaning. Look for corrosion or foreign mate-
fied in Table 2. Fill the freshwater section of the closed rial in the oil and water passages.

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 106 CHAPTER SIX

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 MULTICYLINDER ENGINES 107

Water temperature
sensor

CYLINDER HEAD

1. Snap ring
2. Washer
3. Bushing
4. Adjuster
5. Rocker arm
6. Nut
7. Rocker shaft stand
8. Nut
9. Washer
10. Spring
11. Washer
12. Rocker arm shaft
13. Pin
14. Locating screw
15. Wear cap
16. Keys
17. Valve spring retainer
18. Vavie spring
/ Rocker stand nuts

19. Valve seal

20. Exhaust valve guide
21. intake valve guide
22. Plug
23. Thermostat housing
24. Gasket
25. Cylinder head
26. Gasket
27. End cap
28. Washer
29. Sacrificial anode
30. Exhaust valve
31. intake valve

4. Without removing the valves, remove all deposits from

the combustion chamber. Use a fine wire brush dipped in
solvent or make a scraper from hardwood. Be careful not
to scratch or gouge the combustion chamber.
5. After all carbon is removed from the combustion
chamber and ports, clean the entire head in solvent. While

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 MULTICYLINDER ENGINES 109

CYLINDER HEAD
TIGHTENING SEQUENCE

P' Screw

Flywheel

Flywheel Gear 20. Adjust the valve clearance as described in Chapter

Three.
21. Reinstall the valve cover.

ROCKER SHAFT ASSEMBLY

Each valve is actuated by a rocker arm that rides on a

shaft (Figure 8). Each rocker arm is equipped with a
bushing in the rocker arm bore. A snap ring at each end of
12. Install the rocker assembly and the rocker arm stand the rocker arm shaft retains the rocker arms on the rocker
retaining nuts (Figure 10). Tighten the nuts to 37 N*m(27 shafts.
ft.-lb.). 1. Remove the valve cover as previously described.
13. Install the fuel injector and precombustion chamber 2. Remove the rocker arm stand retaining nuts (Figure
as described in Chapter Seven. lo), then remove the rocker shaft assembly.
14. Install the exhaust manifold.
15. Install the air cleaner base and the air cleaner. NOTE
The rocker arms on 2GM and 2GM20 en-
16. Connect the wire lead to the water temperature sender gines are identical, but rocker arms on
(Figure 9). 3GM, 3GM30, 3HM and 3HM35 engines
17A. Engines with standard cooling-Connect the lower are designed for use with the intake or ex-
water hose (Figure 9). haust valves.
17B. Engines with freshwater (closed) cooling sys-
3. Remove the snap rings at both ends of the rocker shaft
tem-Install the freshwater pump as described in Chapter
and remove the rocker shaft components.
Eight.
4. If necessary, unscrew the locating screw in the end
18. Install the alternator.
support stand (Figure 15) and separate the rocker shaft
19. If the engine is installed in the boat, proceed as fol- from the stand.
lows: 5. Inspect each rocker arm. The pad on the rocker arm
a. Attach the exhaust hose to the exhaust elbow. that contacts the valve stem must be smooth. Replace the
b. On engines equipped with a closed cooling system, rocker arm if the pad is damaged or excessively worn.
fill the cooling system as described in Chapter Four. Check the adjusting screw push rod seat for galling. Re-
c. Connect the negative battery cable to the negative place the adjusting screw if it is damaged or excessively
battery terminal. worn.

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 110 CHAPTER SIX

ROCKER ARMS
(3GM, 3GM30,3HM AND
3HM35 MODELS

U
INTAKE
EXHAUST
VALVE COMPONENTS

6. Inspect and measure the inside diameter of the rocker

arm bushing and the outside diameter of the rocker arm
shaft. Replace the rocker arm or rocker arm shaft if the
measurements exceed the specifications listed in Tables
1-3.

NOTE
The rocker arm and bushing are available
onty as a unit.

7. Reassemble and reinstall the rocker arm assembly by

reversing the removal procedure. On 3GM, 3GM30,3HM
and 3HM35 engines, identify the intake and exhaust
valves as shown in Figure 16, then position them on the
shaft in the order shown in Figure 17.
8. Adjust the valve clearance as described in Chapter
Three.

VALVES AND VALVE SEATS

Servicing the valves, guides and valve seats must be

done by a dealer or machine shop, as special knowledge
and expensive machine tools are required. 1. Wear cap
A general practice among those who do their own ser- 2. Keys
vice is to remove the cylinder head, perform all disassem- 3. Valve spring retainer
4. Valve spring
bly except valve removal and take the head to a dealer or 5. Valve seal
machine shop for inspection and service. Since the cost is 6. Exhaust valve guide
low relative to the required effort and equipment, this is 7. Intake valve guide
usually the best approach, even for experienced mechan- 8. Exhaust valve
ics. The following procedures are provided to acquaint the 9. Intake valve
home mechanic with the procedure.

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 MULTICYLINDER ENGINES 111

Valve Removal

Refer to Figure 18 for this procedure.

1. Remove the cylinder head as described in this chapter.
2. Remove the rocker shaft assembly as described in this
chapter.
3. Remove the wear cap (1, Figure 18) on the valve stem.
4. Compress the valve spring with a compressor like the
one shown in Figure 19.
5. Remove the valve keys (2, Figure 18) and release the
spring tension.
6. Remove the valve spring retainer and valve spring.

CAUTION
Remove any burrs from the valve stem lock
grooves (Figure 20) before removing the
valve to prevent damage to the valve guide.
7. Remove the valve.
8. Remove and discard the valve stem seal (5, Figure
18).
9. Repeat Steps 3-8 for the remaining valves.

Inspection

1. Clean the valves with a fine wire brush or buffing

wheel. Discard any cracked, warped or burned valves.
2. Measure the valve stems at the top, center and bottom
for wear. A machine shop can do this when the valves are
ground.

NOTE
Check the thickness of the valve edge or
m a ~ i nafter the valves have been ground.
See Figure 21. Any valve with a margin less
than 0.75 mm (0.030 in.) should be dis-
carded.
3. Remove all carbon and varnish from the valve guides
with a stiff spiral wire brush.

NOTE
The next step assumes that all valve stems
have been measured and are within specifi-
cations. Replace valves with worn stems be-
fore performing this step.
4. Insert each valve into the guide from which it was re-
moved. Holding the valve just slightly off its seat, rock it
back and forth in a direction parallel with the rocker arms.
This is the direction in which the greatest wear normally
occurs. If the valve stem rocks more than slightly, the
valve guide is probably worn.
5. If there is any doubt about valve guide condition after
performing Step 4, measure the valve guide. Compare the

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 112 CHAPTER SIX

1 Exhaust valve guide Intake valve guide

results with specifications in Tables 1-3. Worn guides
must be replaced.
6. Test the valve springs under load on a spring tester
(Figure 22). Replace any spring that does not meet the
specification listed in Tables 1-3.
7. Inspect the valve seats. If worn or burned, they must be
reconditioned.This is a job for a dealer or machine shop,
although the procedure is described in this chapter.
8. Check each spring on a flat surface with a steel square.
See Figure 23. Slowly revolve the spring 360" and note
the space between the top of the coil and the square. If it
exceeds 1.4 mm (0.055 in.) at any point, replace the
spring.
9. Check the valve guides for wear and looseness. Refer
to Tables 1-3 for valve guide specifications. A loose valve
guide must be replaced.

Valve Guide Replacement

The cylinder head is equipped with replaceable valve

guides. The intake and exhaust valve guides are different
in shape. Refer to Figure 24. The intake valve guide has a
straight inside bore, while the exhaust valve guide has a
stepped opening at the lower end of the guide.
Take the cylinder head to a dealership or machine shop
if valve guide replacement is required.

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 MULTICYLINDER ENGINES 113

OIL PICKUP
@ [ZGM, ZGMZO,3GM AND
3GM30 MODELS)

4. Reinstall the push rods by reversing the removal pro-

cedure. Adjust valve clearance as described in Chapter
Three.

PISTONICONNECTING ROD ASSEMBLY

Piston/Connecting Rod Removal

1. Remove the engine as described in this chapter.

2. Place a suitable container under the oil pan and remove
the drain plug. Let the crankcase oil drain, then reinstall
the drain plug.
3. Remove the cylinder head as described in this chapter.
4. Remove the oil pan.
5. On 2GM, 2GM20,3GM and 3GM30 models-Loosen
the oil pickup jam nut (Figure 26) and remove the oil
pickup.
6. Rotate the crankshaft until the piston is at bottom dead
center. Pack the cylinder bore with clean shop rags. Re-
move the carbon ridge at the top of the cylinder bore with
a ridge reamer. These can be rented for use. Vacuum out
the shavings, then remove the shop rags.
7. Rotate the crankshaft until the connecting rod is cen-
When installing the valve guides, the grooved end must
tered in the bore. Measure the clearance between the con-
be toward the top of the cylinder head. The groove must
necting rod and the crankshaft journal flange with a flat
be flush with the head surface as shown in Figure 25.
feeler gauge (Figure 27). If the clearance exceeds specifi-
cations (Tables 1-3), replace the connecting rod during re-
PUSH RODS assembly.
8. Remove the connecting rod bolts. Lift off the cap, to-
1 . Remove the rocker arms as previously described. gether with the lower bearing insert.
2. Remove the push rods and mark them so they can be 9. Use a wooden hammer handle to push the piston and
reinstalled in their original positions. connecting rod from the bore.
3. Inspect the push rod ends for damage. Maximum al- 10. Remove the piston rings with a ring remover (Figure
lowable runout is 0.03 mm (0.0012 in.). 28).

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 CHAPTER SIX

- -- -

Piston Pin RemovaUInstallation

The steel piston pin rides directly in the piston and in a

bushing in the connecting rod. Circlips at each end retain
the piston pin in the piston.
1. Before removing the piston, place the crankshaft end
of the connecting rod in a vise with soft jaws. Rock the
piston as shown in Figure 29. Any rocking motion (do not
confuse with the normal sliding motion) indicates wear on
the piston pin, piston pin bore or connecting rod small end
bore (or combination of these).
2. Remove the clip from each side of the piston pin bore
(Figure 30) with a small screwdriver or scribe. Hold a
thumb over one edge of the clip when removing it to pre-
vent the clip from springing out.
3. Use a wooden dowel or suitable tool and push out the
piston pin. If the pin is difficult to remove, heat the piston
with a hair dryer. Separate the piston from the connecting
rod.

PistonICylinder Bore Check

Bolts
Unless precision measuring equipment is available,
have this procedure done by a machine shop.
1. Measure the piston diameter with a micrometer (Fig-
ure 31) at a right angle to the piston pin bore 9 mm (0.35
in.) from the bottom of the piston skirt.

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 MULTICYLINDER ENGINES 115

Cyllnder
block

I Bore gauge

2. Measure the cylinder bore diameter at several points

with a bore gauge (Figure 32, typical). Figure 33 shows
the points of normal cylinder wear. If dimension A ex-
ceeds dimension B by more than 0.02 mm (0.0008 in.),
rebore the cylinder and install a new pistonlring assembly.
3. If the cylinder bore is damaged or excessively worn,
rebore the cylinder bore and install a new piston. If the
piston is worn, but the cylinder bore is good, install a new
piston.

NOTE
Obtain the new piston and have it available
so the machine shop can bore the cylinder to
the correct oversize dimension.

Piston Ring FitAnstallation

1. Check the ring gap of each piston ring. To do this, posi-

tion the ring at the bottom of the ring travel area and
square it by tapping gently with an inverted piston. See
Figure 34.

NOTE
Ifthe cylinder has not been rebored, check
the gap at the bottom of the ring travel,
where the cylinder is least worn.

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 116 CHAPTER SIX

2. Measure the ring gap with a feeler gauge as shown in

Figure 35. Compare the measurement with specifications
in Tables 1-3. If the measurement is not within specifica-
tion, the rings must be replaced as a set. Check the gap of
new rings as well. If the gap is too small, file the ends of
the ring to correct it (Figure 36).
3. Check the side clearance of the rings as shown in Fig-
ure 37. Place the feeler gauge alongside the ring all the
way into the groove. If the measurement is not within
specifications (Tables 1-3), either the rings or the ring
grooves are worn. Inspect and replace them as required.
4. Using a ring expander tool (Figure 38), carefully in-
stall the oil control ring, then the compression rings. The
oil ring consists of two pieces, the outer ring and the inner
expansion spring. Assemble the oil ring on the piston so
the expansion spring gap is on the opposite side of the pis-
ton from the ring end gap. See Figure 39. The second
compression ring is tapered while the top compression
ring has a barrel face. The top of each compression ring is
marked and must face toward the piston crown.

Connecting Rod Inspection

Have the connecting rod checked for straightness by a

dealer or machine shop.
The piston pin end of the connecting rod is equipped
with a bushing. Refer to Tables 1-3 for bushing specifica-
tions. If bushing replacement is required, a press is neces-
sary to remove the old bushing and install a new bushing.
The oil holes in the bushing and connecting rod must
align. Ream the bushing to obtain the desired clearance in
Tables 1-3.

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 MULTICYLINDER ENGINES 121

3. Thoroughly clean all parts in solvent and blow them

dry with compressed air.
4. Check the drive spindle and pump rotors for signs of
wear, scoring or damage. Replace damaged parts.

NOTE
The oil pump shaft andgear are pressed to-
gether; do not attempt to disassemble them.
The oil pump must be replaced as a unit as-
sembly if any parts are damaged.

5. Reinstall the inner rotor in the pump body. Reinstall

the outer rotor in the pump body.
6. Measure the clearance between the inner rotor tip and
outer rotor tip (Figure 54). Compare the results with spec-
ifications in Table 1.
7. Measure the clearance between the outer rotor and the
pump body (Figure 55). Compare the results with specifi-
cations in Table 1.
8. Place a straightedge across the pump body. Measure
the side clearance between the rotors and straightedge
7. Installation is the reverse of removal. Tighten the oil with a flat feeler gauge (Figure 56). Compare the mea-
pump retaining screws to the tightening torque specified surement with specifications in Tables 1-3.
in Table 2. Be sure the governor flyweight assembly is po- 9. Measure the diameter of the inner rotor shaft. Measure
sitioned on the locating pin (Figure 5O).Tighten the the shaft bore of the pump body. Calculate shaft clearance
crankshaft nut to the tightening torque specified in Table and compare it with specifications in Tables 1-3.
4.
10. If any clearance measured in Steps 6-9 is not with
Disassembly, inspection and reassembly specifications, replace the pump. Individual components
are not available. The pump must be replaced as a unit.
1. Remove the oil pump cover (Figure 52). 11. When reassembling the oil pump, be sure to lubricate
2. Lift out the inner and outer pump rotors (Figure 53). the rotors, body and shaft with engine oil.

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 122 CHAPTER SIX

OIL PRESSURE REGULATOR

1. Plug
2. Shim
3. Oil pressure relief sprlng
4. Oil pressure relief ball
5. Plpe
6. Nut
7. O-ring
8. 011fllter

Pressure relief valve FLYWHEEL

An oil pressure relief valve is located in the oil filter RemovaVInstallation

mounting pipe (Figure 57). If oil pressure exceeds
300-400 kPa (43-57 psi), the relief valve opens and expels 1. Remove the engine from the boat.
oil into the timing gearcase. 2. Remove the transmission.
Do not attempt to disassemble the oil pressure relief 3. Remove the drive disc (Figure 59, typical).
valve. The valve is sealed and it must be replaced as a unit 4. Gradually loosen and remove the flywheel bolts,
assembly. working in a diagonal pattern. Install two drive disc
screws into two outer holes in the flywheel (Figure 60,
Oil pickup typical), then use the screws to pull and remove the fly-
wheel.
The oil pickup is located in the oil pan. The pickup in- 5. Inspect the ring gear. If the ring gear is excessively
cludes a strainer to prevent foreign matter from entering worn or damaged, use the following procedure to remove
the lubrication system. the ring gear:
To remove the oil pickup, remove the oil pan and un- a. Heat the ring gear evenly, then drive the ring gear
screw the jam nut (Figure 58). off the flywheel.

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 126 CHAPTER SIX

d. Install a dial indicator as shown in Figure 63 and

measure crankshaft end play. Compare the mea-
surement with the specification in Tables 1-3. If end
play is incorrect, refer to the Main Bearings section
to determine the cause.
e. Align the timing marks (Figure 66) on the camshaft
and crankshaft gears when installing the crankshaft
gear.
f. Check timing gear backlash by installing a dial indi-
cator as shown in Figure 67 or by rotating the gear
teeth with soft solder between the gear teeth. Com-
pare the measurement with the specification in Ta-
bles 1-3. If gear backlash is incorrect, replace the
camshaft and crankshaft gears.

Inspection MAIN BEARINGS

1. Clean the crankshaft thoroughly with solvent. Blow The crankshaft is supported at each end by insert-type
out the oil passages with compressed air. main bearings. The front main bearing is located in the
2. Check the main and connecting rod journals for wear, crankcase and the rear main bearing is located in the re-
scratches, grooves, scoring or cracks. Check oil seal sur- movable main bearing carrier. The intermediate, in-
face for burrs, nicks or other sharp edges that might dam- sert-type bearing is held in a removable bearing housing.
age a seal during installation. See Figure 61. Two intermediate bearings are used on
three-cylinder engines, while one intermediate bearing is
NOTE used on two-cylinder engines.
Unless precision measuring equipment is
available, have a machine shop perform Crankshaft thrust (end play) is controlled by the inter-
Step 3. mediate bearing on two-cylinder engines. On
three-cylinder engines, the intermediate bearing nearest
3. Check all journals against specifications (Tables 1-3) the flywheel controls crankshaft thrust.
for out-of-roundness and taper. Have the crankshaft Remove the crankshaft as described in the previous sec-
reground, if necessary, and install new undersize bearings. tion for access to the main bearings. Unless precision

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 MULTICYLINDER ENGINES 131

Sealing edge
before Installation

Strike here

Removal and Installation

CAUTZON
Do not drive core plugs into the engine cast-
ing. It will be impossible to retrieve them
and they can restrict coolant circulation, re-
sulting in serious engine damage.

1. Tap the bottom edge of the core plug with a hammer

and drift. Use several sharp blows to push the bottom of

-
Remove plug
the plug inward, tilting the top out (Figure 81).
2. Grip the top of the plug firmly with pliers. Pull the plug
from its bore (Figure 82) and discard.

NOTE
It is also possible to remove core plugs by
drilling a hole in the center of the plug and
prying it out with an appropriate size drift
Core Plug Replacement or pin punch. When removing a large core
plug, the use of a universal impact slide
hammer is recommended.
Check the condition of all core plugs in the block when-
ever the engine is out of the boat for service. If any signs 3. Clean the plug bore thoroughly to remove all traces of
of leakage or corrosion are found around one core plug, the old sealer. Inspect the bore for any damage that might
replace them all. Core plugs in the cylinder block prevent interfere with proper sealing of the new plug.
damage to the block should the coolant freeze. The cylin- 4. Coat the inside diameter of the plug bore and the outer
der block of 2GM, 3GM and 3HM engines is equipped diameter of the new plug with sealer. Use an oil-resistant
with cast iron, removable cylinder liners. See Cylinder sealer if the plug is to be installed in an oil gallery or a wa-
Liners in this chapter. ter-resistant sealer for plugs installed in the water jacket.
5. Install the new core plug with an appropriate size core
NOTE
A machine shop can replace core plugs in-
plug installation tool (Figure 83), driver or socket. Posi-
expensively. Zfmachine work on the engine tion the outside edge of the plug 2-3 mm (0.08-0.12 in.)
is necessary, have the core plugs replaced at inside the block.
the same time. 6. Repeat Steps 1-5 to replace each remaining core plug.

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 132 CHAPTER SIX

Table I ENGINE SPECIFICATIONS ( X M AND 2GM20)

Bore
2GM 72 mm (2.83 in.)
2GM20 75 mm (2.95 in.)
Stroke 72 mm (2.83 in.)
Displacement
2GM 586 cc (35.7 cu. in.)
2GM20 636 cc (38.8 cu. in.)
Number of cylinders 2
Firing order 1-2
Cyiinder liner diameter (2GM) 72.000 mm (2.8346 in.)
Cylinder liner protrusion (2GM) 0.005-0.075 mm (0.0002-0.0030 in.)
Cylinder bore diameter (2GM20) 75.000-75.030 mm (2.9526-2.9540 in.)
Borelliner out-of-round-max. 0.02 mm (0.0008 in.)
Cylinder block warpage-max. 0.05 mm (0.002 in.)
Piston diameter
2GM
Standard 71.91 3-71.943 mm (2.831 2-2.8324 in.)
Wear iimit 71.850 mm (2.8287 in.)
2GM20
Standard 74.91 0-74.940 mm (2.9492-2.9504 in.)
Wear limit 74.850 mm max. (2.9468 in.)
Piston top clearance 0.684.88 mm (0.027-0.035 in.)
Piston ring side clearance
Top ring 0.065-0.100 mm (0.0026-0.0039 in.)
Second ring 0.035-0.070 mm (0.0014-0.0028 in.)
Oil ring 0.020-0.055 mm (0.000840022 in.)
Ring end gap (ail rings) 0.20-0.40 mm (0.008-0.016 in.)
Piston pin diameter 19.991-20.000 mm (0.7870-0.7874 in.)
Piston pin hole diameter
In piston 19.995-20.008 mm (0.7872-0.7877 in.)
In rod 20.000 mm (0.7874 in.)
Piston pin clearance
in rod 0.025-0.047 mm (0.001 0-0.0019 in.)
in piston 0.005 mm tight-0.017 mm loose
(0.0002 in. tight-0.0007 in. ioose)
Piston ring width
Top and second ring 1.97-1.99 mm (0.0776-0.0783 in.)
Oil control ring 3.97-3.99 mm (0.1563-0.1571 in.)
Cyiinder liner protrusion (2GM) 0.005-0.075 mm (0.0002-0.0030 in.)
Crankshaft main journal diameter
Timing gear end 43.950-43.964 mm (1.7303-1.7309 in.)
Center 43.950-43.964 mm (1.7303-1.7309 in.)
Flywheel end 59.950-59.964 mm (2.3602-2.3608 in.)
Journal out-of-round--ax. 0.01 mm (0.0004 in.)
Crankshaft end play 0.09-0.1 9 mm (0.0035-0.0075 in.)
Crankshaft runout-max. 0.15 mm (0.006 in.)
Main bearing clearance
Timing gear end 0.036-0.092 mm (0.0014-0.0036 in.)
Center 0.036-0.092 mm (0.001 4-0.0036 in.)
Flywheel end 0.036-0.095 mm (0.0014-0.0037 in.)
intermediate thrust bearing width-*in. 24.63 mm (0.970 in.)
Crankpin diameter 39.950-39.964 mm (1.5726-1.57SI in.)
Journal out-of-round-max. 0.01 mm (0.0004 in.)
Crankpin bearing clearance 0.028-0.086 mm (0.001 1-0.0034 in.)
Connecting rod side clearance 0.2-0.4 mm (0.008-0.016 in.)
Cylinder head warpag-ax. 0.07 mm (0.003 in.)
Camshaft
Valve lobe lift 35.000 mm (1.3780 in.)
Fuel pump lobe lift 33.000 mm (1.2992 in.)
Journal diameter 30.000 mm (1 .I811 in.)
Runout 0.02 mm max. (0.0008 in. max.)
(continued)

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 MULTICYLINDER ENGINES 133

Tablo 1 ENOINE SPECIFICATIONS (2OM AND 2OMZO) (continud)

Timing gear backlash 0.05-0.13 mm (0.002-0.005 in.)
~ a & u m allowable , 0.3 mm (0.012 in.)
Push rod runout-max. 0.03 mm (0.0012 in.)
Valve lifter
Type Mechanlcai
Outside diameter 10.000 mm (0.3937 in.)
Outside diameter-min. 9.95 mm (0.3917 in.)
Clearance in block 0.01 0-0.040 mm (0.0004-0.0016 in.)
Max. clearance 0.10 mm (0.004 in.)
Valve face angle 45"
Valve seat angle 45"
Valve head margln 0.75-1.1 5 mm (0.030-0.045 in.)
Seat width (Int. and exh.) 1.77 mm (0.070 In.)
Valve depth-max. 1.25 mm (0.049 in.)
Valve stem clearance
intake 0.040-0.065 mm (0.0016-0.0026 In.)
Exhaust 0.045-0.070 mm (0.001S-O.0028 In.)
Max. stem clearance 0.15 mm (0.006 in.)
Valve stem diameter 7.000 mm (0.2756 in.)
Valve stem wear limit 6.900 mm (0.2717 in.)
Valve stem runout-4ax. 0.03 mm (0.0012 in.)
Valve guide diameter 7.000 mm (0.2756 in.)
Valve guide wear limit 7.080 mm (0.2878 in.)
Valve guide protruslon 7.0 mm (0.276 in.)
Valve spring
Standard free length 38.5 mm (1.52 in.)
Min. free length 37 mm (1.46 in.)
installed height 29.2 mm (1.1 5 in.)
Pressure at installed height 16.16 kg at 29.2 mm (35.63 Ib. at 1.15 In.)
Rocker arm shaft clearance 0.016-0.052 mm (0.0006-0.0020 in.)
Rocker arm shaft clearancc+max. 0.15 mm (0.006 in.)
Rocker arm bore wear limlt 14.10 mm (0.555 in.)
Rocker arm shaft wear limit 13.90 mm (0.547 in.)
Oli pump
Inner rotor tiptoouter rotor tip 0.050-0.105 mm (0.0020-0.0041 in.)
Max. 0.15 mm (0.006 in.)
Outer rotor-to-pump body 0.050-0.105 mm (0.0020-0.0041 in.)
Max. 0.15 mm (0.006 in.)
Rotor side clearance 0.030-0.080 mm
Max. 0.13 mm (0.005 In.)
Shaft clearance 0.015-0.050 mm (0.0006-0.0020 in.)
Max. 0.20 mm (0.0079 in.)

Table 2 ENOINE SPECIFICATIONS 13QM AND 30M301

Bore
3GM 72 mm (2.83 in.)
3GM30 75 mm (2.95 in.)
Stroke 72 mm (2.83 In.)
Displacement
3GM 879 cc (53.6 cu. In.)
3GM30 954 cc (58.2 cu. In.)
Number of cyilnders 3
Flring order 1-2-3
Cylinder liner diameter (3GM) 72.000 mm (2.8346 in.)
Cylinder liner protrusion (3GM) 0.005-0.075 mm (0.0002-0.0030 in.)
Cylinder bore diameter (3GM30) 75.000-75.030 mm (2.9528-2.9540 in.)
Borelliner out-of-round--max. 0.02 mm (0.0008 In.)

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 134 CHAPTER SIX

Table 2 ENGINE SPECIFICATIONS (3GM AND 3GM30) (continued)

Cylinder block warpage-max. 0.05 mm (0.002 in.)
Piston diameter
3GM
Standard 71.91 3-71.943 mm (2.831 2-2.8324 in.)
Wear limit 71.850 mm (2.8287 in.)
3GM30
Standard 74.910-74.940 mm (2.9492-2.9504 in.)
Wear limit 74.850 mm (2.9468 in.)
Piston top clearance 0.68-0.88 mm (0.027-0.035 in.)
Piston ring side clearance
Top ring 0.065-0.100 mm (0.0026-0.0039 in.)
Second rlng 0.035-0.070 mm (0.0014-0.0028 in.)
Piston ring side clearance (continued)
Oil ring 0.020-0.055 mm (0.0008-0.0022 in.)
Ring end gap (all rings) 0.20-0.40 mm (0.008-0.016 in.)
Piston pin diameter 19.991-20.000 mm (0.7870-0.7874 In.)
Piston pin hole dlameter
In piston 19.995-20.008 mm (0.7872-0.7877 in.)
In rod 20.000 mm (0.7874 in.)
Piston pin clearance
In rod 0.025-0.047 mm (0.0010-0.0019 in.)
In plston 0.005 mm tight-0.017 mm loose
(0.0002 in. tight-0.0007 in. loose)
Piston ring width
Top and second ring 1.97-1.99 mm (0.0776-0.0783 in.)
Oil control ring 3.97-3.99 mm (0.1563-0.1571 In.)
Crankshaft maln journal diameter
Timing gear end 43.950-43.964 mm (1.7303-1.7309 in.)
Center 43.950-43.964 mm (1.7303-1.7309 in.)
Flywheel end 59.950-59.964 mm (2.3602-2.3608 in.)
Journal out-of-round-max. 0.01 mm (0.0004 in.)
Crankshaft end play 0.09-0.19 mm (0.0035-0.0075 in.)
Crankshaft runout-max. 0.15 mm (0.006 in.)
Main bearing clearance
Timing gear end 0.036-0.092 mm (0.0014-0.0036 in.)
Center 0.036-0.092 mm (0.0014-0.0036 in.)
Flywheel end 0.036-0.095 mm (0.0014-0.0037 in.)
Crankpin diameter 39.950-39.964 mm (1.5728-1.5734 in.)
Journal out-of-round-max. 0.01 mm (0.0004 in.)
Intermediate thrust bearing width-min. 24.63 mm (0.970 in.)
Crankpin bearing clearance 0.028-0.086 mm (0.001 1-0.0034 In.)
Connecting rod side clearance 0.2-0.4 mm (0.008-0.016 in.)
Cylinder head warpag-ax. 0.07 mm (0.003 in.)
Camshaft
Valve lobe lift 35.000 mm (1.3780 in.)
Fuel pump lobe lift 33.000 mm (1.2992 in.)
Journal diameter
End journal 30.000 mm (1 .I811 In.)
Center journal 41.500 mm (1.6339 in.)
Runout 0.02 mm max. (0.0008 in. max.)
Timing gear backlash 0.05-0.13 mm (0.002-0.005 in.)
Maximum allowable 0.3 mm (0.012 in.)
Push rod runout-max. 0.03 mm (0.0012 in.)
Valve lifter
TYPe Mechanical
Outside diameter 10.000 mm (0.3937 in.)
Outside diameter-min. 9.95 mm (0.3917 in.)
Clearance in block 0.01 0-0.040 mm (0.0004-0.001 6 in.)
Max. clearance 0.10 mm (0.004 in.)
Valve face angle 45" -
Valve seat angle 45"

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 MULTICYLINDER ENGINES 135

Table 2 ENGINE SPECIFICATIONS (3GM AND 3GM30) (continued)

Valve head margin 0.75-1.15 mm (0.030-0.045 in.)
Seat width (int. and exh.) 1.77 mm (0.070 in.)
Valve depth--max. 1.25 mm (0.049 in.)
Valve stem ciearance
intake 0.040-0.065 mm (0.0016-0.0026 in.)
Exhaust 0.045-0.070 mm (0.0018-0.0028 in.)
Max. stem clearance 0.15 mm (0.006 in.)
Valve stem diameter 7.000 mm (0.2756 in.)
Valve stem wear limit 6.900 mm (0.2717 in.)
Valve stem runout-max. 0.03 mm (0.0012 in.)
Valve guide diameter 7.000 mm (0.2756 in.)
Valve guide wear limit 7.080 mm (0.2878 in.)
Valve guide protrusion 7.0 mm (0.276 in.)
Vaive spring
Standard free length 38.5 mm (1.52 in.)
Min. free length 37 mm (1 .46 in.)
Installed height 29.2 mm (1.15 in.)
Pressure at installed height 16.16 kg at 29.2 mm (35.63 ib. at 1.15 in.)
Rocker arm shaft clearance 0.016-0.052 mm (0.0006-0.0020 in.)
Rocker arm shaft clearance-max. 0.15 mm (0.006 In.)
Rocker arm bore wear limit 14.10 mm (0.555 in.)
Rooker arm shaft wear limit 13.90 mm (0.547 in.)
Oil pump
inner rotor tip-to-outer rotor tip 0.050-0.105 mm (0.0020-0.0041 in.)
Max. 0.15 mm (0.006 in.)
Outer rotor-to-pump body 0.050-0.105 mm (0.0020-0.0041 in.)
Max. 0.15 mm (0.006 in.)
Rotor side clearance 0.030-0.080 mm
Max. 0.13 mm (0.005 in.)
Shaft clearance 0.015-0.050 mm (0.0006-0.0020 in.)
Max. 0.20 mm (0.0079 in.)

Table 3 ENGINE SPECIFICATIONS (3HM AND 3HM35)

Bore
3HM 75 mm (2.95 in.)
3HM35 80 mm (3.15 in.)
Stroke 85 mm (3.35 in.)
Displacement
3HM 1126 cc (68.7 cu. in.)
3HM35 1282 cc (78.2 cu. in.)
Number of cylinders 3
Firing order 1-2-3
Cylinder bore diameter (3HM35) 80.000-80.030 mm (3.1496-3.1508 in.)
Cylinder liner diameter (3HM) 75.00 mm (2.9528 in.)
Max. 75.10 mm (2.9567 In.)
Cyiinder liner protrusion (3HM) 0.005-0.075 mm (0.0002-0.0030 in.)
Borehiner out-of-round--max. 0.02 mm (0.0008 in.)
Cyiinder block warpage-max. 0.05 mm (0.002 in.)
Piston diameter
3HM
Standard 74.907-74.937 mm (2.9491-2.9503 in.)
Wear limit 74.850 mm max. (2.9468 in.)
3HM35
Standard 79.902-79.932 mm (3.1457-3.1470 in.)
Wear limit 79.840 mm mar. (3.1433 in.)
Piston top clearance 0.66-0.86 mm (0.026-0.034 in.)
Piston ring side clearance
Top ring 0.065-0.100 mm (0.0026-0.0039 in.)
Second ring 0.035-0.070 mm (0.0014-0.0028 in.)
(continued)

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 136 CHAPTER SIX

Tablo 3 ENalNE SPECIFICATIONS (3HM AND 3HM31) (continued)

Piston ring side clearance (continued)
Oil ring 0.020-0.055 mm (0.00064.0022 in.)
Ring end gap
Top ring 0.25-0.45 mm (0.01 0-0.018 in.)
Second ring 0.20-0.40 mm (0.0064.016 in.)
Oil ring 0.25-0.45 mm (0.01 0-0.018 in.)
Piston pin diameter 22.991-23.000 mm (0.9052-0.9055 in.)
Piston pin hole diameter
in piston 22.995-23.008 mm (0.9053-0.9058 in.)
in rod 23.000 mm (0.9055 in.)
Piston pin clearance
in rod 0.025-0.047 mm (0.001 0-0.0019 in.)
in piston 0.005 mm tight-0.017 mm loose
(0.0002 in. tight-0.0007 in. loose)
Piston ring width
Top and second ring 1.97-1.99 mm (0.07764.0783 in.)
Oil control ring 3.97-3.99 mm (0.1563-0.1571 in.)
Crankshaft main journal diameter
Timing gear end 46.950-46.964 mm (1.8484-1 .a490 in.)
lntermediate 46.950-46.964 mm (1.8484-1.8490 in.)
Flywheel end 64.950-64.964 mm (2.5571 -2.5576 in.)
Journal outof-round-max. 0.01 mm (0.0004 in.)
Crankshaft end play 0.09-0.18 mm (0.0035-0.007 in.)
Crankshaft runout-max. 0.1 5 mm (0.006 in.)
Main bearing clearance
Timing gear end 0.036-0.095 mm (0.0014-0.0037 in.)
lntermediate 0.036-0.095 mm (0.0014-0.0037 in.)
Flywheel end 0.0364.099 mm (0.0014-0.0039 in.)
lntermediate thrust bearing width-min. 29.63 mm(1.166 in.)
intermediate thrust bearing width-mln.
2GM, 2GM20,3GM, 3GM30 24.63 mm (0.970 in.)
3HM, 3HM35 29.63 mm (1.1 66 in.)
Crankpin diameter 43.950-43.964 mm (1.7303-1.7309 in.)
Journal outof-round-max. 0.01 mm (0.0004 in.)
Crankpin bearlng clearance 0.036-0.092 mm (0.00144.0036 in.)
Connecting rod side clearance 0.2-0.4 mm (0.0089.016 in.)
Cylinder head warpage--max. 0.07 mm (0.003 in.)
Camshaft
Valve lobe lift 35.000 mm (1.3780 in.)
Fuel pump lobe lift 33.500 mm (1.3189 in.)
Journal diameter
End journal 30.000 mm (1.1 811 in.)
Center journal 41.500 mm (1.6339 in.)
Runout 0.02 mm max. (0.0008 in. max.)
Timing gear backlash 0.05-0.13 mm (0.002-0.005 In.)
Maximum allowable 0.3 mm (0.012 in.)
Push rod runout-*ax. 0.03 mm (0.0012 in.)
Valve lifter
Type Mechanical
Outside diameter 10.000 mm (0.3937 in.)
Outside diameter-min. 9.95 mm (0.3917 in.)
Clearance in block 0.01 W.O4O mm (0.0004-0.0016 in.)
Max. clearance 0.10 mm (0.004 in.)
Valve face angle 45"
Valve seat angle 45"
Valve head margin 0.85-1.1 5 mm (0.034-0.045 in.)
Seat width (int. and exh.) 1.77 mm (0.070 In.)
Valve depth-max. 1.55 mm (0.061 in.)
Valve stem clearance
Intake 0.040-0.065 mm (0.001 64.0026 in.)
Exhaust 0.045-0.070 mm (0.00189.0028 in.)
(continued)

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 MULTICYLINDER ENGINES 137

Table 3 ENGINE SPECIFICATIONS (3HM AND 3HM35) (continued)

Valve stem clearance (continued)
Max. stem clearance 0.15 mm (0.006 In.)
Valve stem diameter ' 7.000 mm (0.2756 In.)
Valve stem wear limit 6.900 mm (0.2717 In.)
Valve stem runout-max. 0.03 mm (0.0012 in.)
Valve guide diameter 7.000 mm (0.2756 In.)
Valve guide wear limit 7.080 mm (0.2878 in.)
Valve guide protrusion 7.0 mm (0.276 in.)
Valve spring
Standard free length 38.5 mm (1.52 in.)
Mln. free length 37 mm (1.46 in.)
Installed height 30.2 mm (1.19 In.)
Pressure and installed height 14.43 kg at 30.2 mm (31.81 Ib. at 1.19 in.)
Rocker arm shaft clearance 0.016-0.052 mm (0.0006-0.0020 in.)
Rocker arm shaft clearance-max. 0.15 mm (0.006 In.)
Rocker arm bore wear limit 14.10 mm (0.555 in.)
Rocker arm shaft wear limit 13.90 mm (0.547 in.)
Oil pump
Inner rotor tip-to-outer rotor tip 0.050-0.105 mm (0.0020-0.0041 In.)
Max. 0.15 mm (0.006 in.)
Outer rotor-to-pump body 0.050-0.105 mm (0.0020-0.0041 in.)
Max. 0.15 mm (0.006 in.)
Rotor side clearance 0.030-0.080 mm
Max. 0.13 mm (0.005 in.)
Shaft clearance 0.015-0.050 mm (0.0006-0.0020 In.)
Max. 0.20 mm (0.0079 In.)

Table 4 TIGHTENING TORQUES

I Fastener N*m ft.-lb. in.-lb.
Connecting rod 25 18 216
Cylinder head -
M8 30 22 -
Mi2 120 88 -
3HM, 3HM35
M8 30 22 -
MI2 130 95 -
Exhaust elbow (2GM, 2GM20) 45 33 -
Exhaust manifold (&cylinder) 45 33 -
Flywheel 65-70 48-51 -
Intermediate bearing housing
2GM, 2GM20,3GM, 3GM30 30-35 22-25 -
3HM, 3HM35 45-50 33-36 -
Retaining (set) bolt 45-50 33-36
Rear main bearing housing 25 18 -
Timing gearcase 15 11 -
Oil pump 8 - 17

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 Chapter Seven

Fuel Injection and Governor Systems

This chapter describes operation of the fuel injection The major components of the diesel fuel system are the
and governor systems and service procedures. Refer to fuel tank, fuel filters, injection pump and injection noz-
Chapter Two for troubleshooting procedures. Refer to zle(~)(Figure 1). A feed (transfer) pump moves fuel from
Chapter Three for maintenance procedures. Refer to the fuel tank through the filters to the fuel injection pump.
Chapter Five for a description of diesel engine operation. Governor operation is described in Governor System in
Tables 1-3 are located at the end of this chapter. this chapter.

WARNING
Serious fire hazards always exist around Fuel Injection Pump
diesel fuel. Do not allow any smoking in ar-
eas where fuel is present. Always have afire The fuel injection pump forces fuel into the fuel injec-
extinguishel; rated for fuel and electrical
tor(~),which direct fuel into the engine combustion cham-
fires, on hand when refueling or servicing
any part of the fuel system. ber. The pump raises fuel pressure to approximately
17000 kPa (2540 psi), while also controlling the time and
WARNING amount of fuel injected.
Fuel emerges from the injector and The diesel injection pumps used on the engines covered
high-pressure fuel fittings with suficient in this manual operate on the plunger and cam principle.
force topenetrate the skin, which may cause Refer to Figure 2 and Figure 3. A rotating cam in the en-
blood poisoning. Wear goggles and cover gine causes a plunger in the fuel injection pump to move
exposed skin when working on high-pressure
in a cylinder and pump fuel to the injector nozzle. A deliv-
components.
ery valve and spring establish the beginning and ending of
injection while also maintaining residual pressure in the
FUEL INJECTION FUNDAMENTALS injection line. The plunger is designed to alter fuel flow
when it is rotated. Fuel control is achieved by moving the
Engine operation is described under Diesel Engine fuel control rack, which rotates the fuel plunger pinion
Fundamentals in Chapter Five. and plunger.

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 FUEL INJECTION AND GOVERNOR SYSTEMS 139

FUEL INJECTION SYSTEM

Fuel tank

hose

fuel pipe

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 140 CHAPTER SEVEN

Individual pumping elements are used on sin-

gle-cylinder engines as shown in Figure 4. Multi-
ple-cylinder engines are eq9pped with pumping elements
combined in a single unit as shown in Figure 5.
Fuel injection pumps are precision-built units that re-
quire clean fuel to operate properly. The extremely close
tolerances and high injection pressure dictate that special-
ized equipment and experienced technicians are needed to
service fuel injection pumps. If properly operated and
maintained, a fuel injection pump will provide
long-lasting, trouble-free service.

Fuel Injector

A fuel injector (A, Figure 6) is required for each cylin-

der to inject fuel into the combustion chamber. A
high-pressure fuel line (B, Figure 6) directs fuel from the
fuel injection pump to the fuel injector, while a fuel return
line (C, Figure 6) carries bypass fuel back to the fuel tank.
Refer to Figure 7 for an exploded view of the fuel injec-
tor.
The engines covered in this manual are equipped with
an inward opening, throttling-pintle type fuel injector
(Figure 8). High fuel pressure from the injection pump
enters the injection nozzle, surrounds the nozzle valve and
forces the valve away from the seat. The pressure exerted
by the spring above the nozzle holds the nozzle valve
closed until the pressure of the fuel rises higher than
spring pressure. The fuel delivered by the pump sprays
from the nozzle tip into the combustion chamber when the
valve opens. After the fuel is injected, fuel pressure de-
creases and the spring once again closes the valve.
jection pump and nozzles are easily damaged by solid par-
The injection nozzle atomizes the fuel to help mix fuel
ticles in the fuel as well as by water in the fuel.
with the compressed air in the engine's cylinder. The fuel
must be broken into very small particles so that the fuel All diesel fuel contains some sulfur, which forms sulfu-
will quickly absorb heat from the compressed (hot) air, ric acid if water mixes with the sulfur. The sulfuric acid
change to a vapor, then ignite. The design of the nozzle tip will quickly erode the precision parts of the pump and
affects the size and shape of the fuel spray. The throttling nozzles. Extra care must be exercised in the storage and
pintle reduces the amount of fuel injected for a given ori- handling of diesel fuel to prevent contamination.
fice and causes a delay in the injection of the principal Diesel fuel is graded according to the composition of
amount of fuel. the fuel after passing through the refining process. Com-
Excess fuel is routed from the injectors back to the fuel mon diesel fuel grades are 1D and 2D, with 1D the lighter
tank through a fuel return line. fuel. The recommended fuel for the Yanmar engines cov-
ered by this manual is 2-D diesel fuel.
Filters are included within the system to remove solid
Fuel and Fuel Filters particles and absorb moisture. In many cases, at least two
filtering stages plus a water trap are incorporated to help
Clean, moisture-free fuel is very important to a diesel ensure only clean fuel reaches the fuel injection pump.
fuel system. As well as acting as the fuel for combustion, The primary filter (nearest the fuel tank) removes sedi-
diesel fuel is also a lubricant for many of the internal mov- ment and water from the fuel. The secondary filter re-
ing parts in the fuel system. The close tolerances of the in- moves very fine particles from the fuel. Both filters must

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 FUEL INJECTION AND GOVERNOR SYSTEMS 141

INJECTION PUMP

1. Delivery valve holder

2. O-ring
3. Spring
4. Delivery valve
5. Gasket
6. Delivery valve seat
7. Barrel
8. Gasket
9. Pump body
10. Control rack
11. Shlms
12. Plunger
13. Control sleeve
14. Washer
15. Spring
16. Spring seat
17. Shlms
18. Tappet
19. Pin
20. Bearing
21. Roller

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 FUEL INJECTION AND GOVERNOR SYSTEMS 153

GOVERNOR SYSTEM OPERATION

Speed control handle Speed control lever

Fuel control rack

Idle adjuster No-load Governor lever 2

Crankshaft gear
Governor spring
Pivot point

Fuel control lever Governor weight

Governor sleeve

Fuel injection limiter

0 GOVERNOR SYSTEM

No-load maximum speed limiter

Control lever

Governor lever 1

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 154 CHAPTER SEVEN

GOVERNOR SYSTEM

Speed control
Speed regulator
ldle adjuster bracket
Governor spring (sub.)
ldle
adju ernor spring (mai

Fuel injection limiter

Engine stop lever

/
Governor level 1
over nor
weight

Adjustments

Yanmar recommends that only idle speed adjustment

should be performed by non-authorized service techni-
cians. Refer to Chapter Three for the idle speed procedure.
Other adjustments, such as no-load maximum governed
speed and fuel limiter screw setting, are set by the
manufacturer. Incorrect adjustment can damage the en-
gine. To prevent tampering, a safety wire is attached to
each screw and a lead seal is affixed to the wire or the
screw assembly is marked (Figure 46). Removing or cut-
ting the wire or seal or altering the marked screw position
will void the engine warranty.

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 FUEL INJECTION AND GOVERNOR SYSTEMS 155

0 GOVERNOR ASSEMBLY
(1GM AND 1 OM10 MODELS)

1. Nut 22. Roll pin

2. Washer 23. Shaft
3. Speed control lever 24. Start spring
4. Bracket 25. Needle bearing
5. Stop lever 26. Roll pin
6. O-ring 27. Shaft support
7. Spring 28. Lockwasher
8. Snap ring 29. Bolt
9. Timing gearcase 30. Taper pin
10. O-ring 31. Governor fork
11. Snap ring 32. Thrust collar
12. Speed control shaft 33. Thrust bearing
13. Spring post 34. Governor sleeve
14. Secondary governor spring 35. Pin
15. Main governor spring 36. Flyweight
16. Snap ring 37. Governor flyweight assembly.
17. Washer 38. Roll pin
18. Control lever 39. Stop cam
19. Spring 40. Washer
20. Governor lever 41. Lockwasher
21. Taper pin 42. Nut

2. Carefully disconnect the governor spring (15, Figure

47 or Figure 48).
The governor components are contained in the timing 3. Check the governor shaft assembly for damage or
gearcase (Figure 42, typical). Refer to Figure 47 or Fig- looseness. Excessive play can cause improper governor
ure 48 for an exploded view of the governor mechanism. operation. The shaft rides in bearings and should rotate
smoothly without binding. The pinned levers should be
1. Remove the timing gearcase as described in Chapter tight on the shaft.
Five or Six.
NOTE
NOTE Tapered pins secure the levers to the shaft.
Do not distort or damage the governor Remove a pin by driving against the small
spring. end of the pin.

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 156 CHAPTER SEVEN

k)! GOVERNOR ASSEMBLY

(2GM, 2GM20,3GM, 3GM30,3HM AND 3HM35 MODELS)

1. Nut 23. Shaft

2. Washer 24 Start spring
3. Speed control lever 25. Needle bearing
4. Bracket 26. Roll pin
5. Stop lever 27. Shaft support
6. Taper pin 28. Lockwasher
7. Lock screw 29. Bolt
8. O-ring 30. Taper pin
9. Timing gearcase 31. Governor fork
10. O-ring 32. Thrust collar
11. Snap ring 33. Thrust bearing
12. Speed control shaft 34. Governor sleeve
13. Spring post 35. Pin
14. Secondary governor spring 36. Flyweight
15. Main governor spring 37. Governor flyweight assembly.
16. Snap ring 38. Roll pin
17. Washer 39. Stop cam
18. Control lever 40. Washer
19. Spring post 41. Lockwasher
20. Governor lever 42. Nut
21. Taper pin 43. Spring
22. Roll pin

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 FUEL INJECTION AND GOVERNOR SYSTEMS 157

the nut (42), then withdraw the shaft. Determine if the

shaft, the timing gearcase or both are worn. Replace or re-
pair any worn parts.
7B. On ZGM, 2GM20, 3GM, 3GM30, 3HM and 3HM35
models--Check the stop shaft (5, Figure 48) for exces-
sive play between the shaft and the timing gearcase. If ex-
cessive play is evident, drive out the taper pin (6) by
driving against the small end of the pin. Remove the lock-
ing screw (7). Remove the nut (42), then remove the shaft.
Determine if the shaft, the timing gearcase or both are
worn. Replace or repair any worn parts.
MAIN GOVERNOR SPRING 8. Inspect the governor springs for damage and distor-
tion. Measure the length of the main and secondary gover-
nor springs as shown in Figure 49. Replace either spring
if its free length dimension is not as specified in Table 2.
If either spring is questionable, take it to a Yanmar dealer-
ship for testing.
9. Remove and inspect the thrust collar (32, Figure 47 or
Figure 48). Replace the thrust collar if damaged or if the
thickness is less than 2.9 rnrn (0.114 in.).
10. Remove the thrust bearing (33, Figure 47 or Figure
SECONDARY GOVERNOR SPRING 48). Replace the bearing if damaged.
11. Remove the governor sleeve (34, Figure 47 or Fig-
ure 48). Inspect the governor sleeve and crankshaft for
damage. Refer to the specifications in Table 3.
12. Check the operation of the flyweight assembly (37,
Figure 47 or Figure 48). The flyweights should move
smoothly without excessive looseness. The contact sur-
4. If disassembly of the governor shaft assembly is re- face in the flyweight groove should not be excessively
quired, remove the retaining bolts (29, Figure 47 or Fig- worn. The flyweight assembly must be replaced as a com-
ure 48) and remove the shaft assembly. To disassemble plete assembly. Remove the crankshaft nut as described in
the components, detach the snap ring (16), then drive out Chapter Five or Six to remove the flyweight assembly.
the tapered pins that retain the levers. Replace the worn 13. Reassemble the governor assembly by reversing the
parts. disassembly procedure while noting the following:
5. Remove the idle adjuster bracket and side cover (4, a. Do not distort the governor springs during installa-
Figure 47 or Figure 48). tion.
6. Check the speed control lever and shaft (12, Figure 47 b. Install the governor springs so the long hook end
or Figure 48) for excessive play between the shaft and the engages the speed control lever (12, Figure 47 or
timing gearcase and between the lever and the shaft. Figure 48).
a. If the shaft is loose in the timing gearcase, remove c. Install the secondary governor spring (14, Figure
the nut (1, Figure 47 or Figure 48), then remove 47 or Figure 48) so the lower end of the spring fits
the speed control lever (3). Remove the shaft (12) in the loop on the main governor spring.
and determine if the shaft, the timing gearcase or d. Note that the pins securing the levers on the shafts
both are worn. Replace or repair the worn part. are tapered. The lever should fit tightly on the shaft
b. If the lever is loose on the shaft, remove the nut (1, after the pin is installed. If not, replace the worn
Figure 47 or Figure 48), then remove the speed part.
control lever (3). Determine if the lever, the shaft or e. Check the movement of all the parts after assembly.
both are worn. Replace any worn parts. Motion should be smooth without binding.
7A. On 1GM and 1GMIO models--Check the stop shaft 14. Reinstall the timing gearcase as described in Chapter
(5, Figure 47) for excessive play between the shaft and Five for single cylinder engines or Chapter Six for multi-
the timing gearcase. If excessive play is evident, remove cylinder engines.

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 158 CHAPTER SEVEN

Table 1 TIGHTENING TORQUES

1 Fastener N*m ft..lb. in.-lb.
.
I Injector fuel nut
Injection pump retaining nuts
20
25

Table 2 GOVERNOR SPRING FREE LENGTH

lGM, 1GMlO 2GM, 2GM20 3GM, 3GM30,3HM,
3HM35
Main governor spring
L1 76 mm 78 mm 78 mm
(2.99 in.) (3.07 in.) (3.07 in.)
L2 18 mm 20 mm 20 mm
(0.71 in.) (0.79 in.) (0.79 in.)
Secondary governor spring
L1 26 mm 23 mm 23 mm
(1.02 in.) (0.90 in.) (0.90 in.)
L2 5 mm 10 mm 10 mm
(0.20 in.) (0.39 in.) (0.39 in.)

<
Table 3 GOVERNOR SLEEVE AND CRANKSHAFT SPECIFICATIONS
Governor sleeve inside diameter 25.053-25.083 mm (0.9863-0.9875 in.)
Governor sleeve length-wear limit 14.8 mm (0.583 in.)
Crankshaft diameter 24.972-24.993 mm (0.9831-0.9840 in.)
Governor sleeve clearance on crankshaft 0.060-0.1 11 mm (0.0024-0.0044 in.)
Maximum allowable clearance 0.20 mm (0.008 in.)

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 160 CHAPTER EIGHT

SEAWATER COOLING SYSTEM

(1GM AND 1GMlO)

Mixing elbow
Rubber hose
I

Drain

Seacock (except 1GM1OC)

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 COOLING SYSTEM 161

SEAWATER COOLING SYSTEM

(2GM AND 2GM20)

U-type mixing elbow

Rubber hose

Seacock (except 2GM20C)

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 162 CHAPTER EIGHT

SEAWATER COOLING SYSTEM

(3GM AND 3GM30 MODELS)

3HM AND 3HM35

Exhaust manifold Thermostat

Thermostat switch
I cover \

Thermostat cover

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 COOLING SYSTEM 163

lo CLOSED COOLING SYSTEM DIAGRAM

Pressure fill cap

Seawater line

Freshwater line

Freshwater (Closed) Cooling System system operation is similar to the standard cooling system
previously described, except as follows:
a. Coolant in the closed cooling system cools the en-
Two- and three-cylinder engines with a model number
gine block, cylinder head and exhaust manifold.
ending in F are equipped with seawater and freshwater
(closed) cooling systems b. A belt-driven seawater pump (Figure I), located at
the front of the engine, delivers seawater to the heat
The closed cooling system is divided into two separate exchanger, instead of passing seawater directly into
subsystems: one uses seawater and the other uses a cool- the engine.
ant mixture of distilled water and ethylene glycol anti- After passing through the seawater pump, the seawater
freeze. The subsystem containing the coolant is referred travels through a series of parallel copper tubes in the heat
to as the freshwater system. Refer to the typical freshwa- exchanger, where it absorbs engine heat before returning
ter cooling system diagram in Figure 5. Typical compo- to the exhaust elbow for discharge from the boat. Figure 7
nents are shown in Figure 6. shows a typical heat exchanger.
Various configurations of the closed cooling system are The freshwater system pump circulates the coolant
used, but all function essentially the same. The seawater mixture inside the engine to absorb engine heat. This

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 164 CHAPTER EIGHT

CLOSED COOLING SYSTEM (TYPICAL)

rnlxlng
elbow

Joint

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 COOLING SYSTEM 165

HEAT EXCHANGER

Cooling tube Seawater

outlet

Freshwater inlet
(from cylinder he

cooling
Pipe
cover

coolant travels to the heat exchanger, where the heat ab- THERMOSTAT
sorbed from engine operation passes through the parallel
copper tubes to the water in the seawater system. The thermostat blocks coolant flow to the exhaust man-
Engine cooling is thus accomplished without seawater ifold (standard cooling) or heat exchanger (closed cool-
entering the engine. This eliminates the corrosion, deposit ing) when the engine is cold. As the engine warms, the
buildup and debris accumulation that occurs in a standard thermostat gradually opens, allowing coolant to circulate
cooling system, resulting in longer engine life--espe- through the system.
cially if the boat is used in saltwater.
Like an automotive cooling system, the freshwater sec- CAUTZON
tion is pressurized at 13 psi. This raises the boiling point Do not operate the engine without a thermo-
of the coolant to permit higher operating temperatures for stat. This can lead to serious engine dam-
increased engine efficiency. age.
A thermostat controls coolant circulation. When the
thermostat closes, it prevents coolant from entering the Thermostats are rated according to their opening tem-
heat exchanger, rerouting it back to the engine circulating perature. The opening temperature value is stamped on
pump. Once the thermostat opens, it closes off the passage the thermostat. The thermostat should start to open at the
to the circulating pump and sends the coolant through the temperature stamped on the thermostat and should be
heat exchanger before returning it to the engine pump. fully open at 25" F (14" C) above that temperature. Check
This provides quick engine warm-up and maintains a con- the thermostat rating after removing the thermostat and
stant operating temperature. compare it to the specifications in Table 2.

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 COOLING SYSTEM 167

Testing (Out of Engine)

1. Pour some tap water (not distilled water or coolant)

into a container that can be heated. Submerge the thermo-
stat in the water and suspend a thermometer as shown in
Figure 13.

NOTE
suspend the thermostat with wire so it does
not contact the pan.

2. Heat the water until the thermostat starts to open.

Check the water temperature on the thermometer. It
should be approximately the same as the temperature
value stamped on the thermostat. If the thermostat has not
started to open at this temperature, replace it.
3. Heat the water another 25" F (14" C) above the temper-
ature value stamped on thermostat. The thermostat should
now be fully open. If it is not, replace it.
4. Allow the water to cool to lo0 F (6O C) under the ther-
mostat's rated opening temperature. If the thermostat
valve is not fully closed at this temperature, replace it.
5. Remove the thermostat from the water and let it cool to
room temperature. Make sure the valve seals tightly by
holding the thermostat up to a light. If light is visible
around the edge of the valve, replace the thermostat.

Testing (In Engine)

9. Install the cover while connecting it to the coolant Thermostat operation can be tested without removing it
hose. Tighten the bolts securely. from the engine or reservoir. This procedure requires the
10. Tighten the hose clamp securely. use of two thermomelt sticks (Figure 14) available from
11. Operate the engine and check for leaks. Operate the marine supply or automotive parts stores. A thermomelt
engine until it reaches normal operating temperature. Im- stick looks like a carpenter's pencil and is made of a
mediately shut down the engine if overheating occurs and chemically impregnated wax material that melts at a spe-
correct the problem. cific temperature.

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 172 CHAPTER EIGHT

equipped. Some engines are equipped with an O-ring that 3HM and 3HM35
seals between the pump and engine.
5. Reverse the removal steps to install the pump. Refer to 1. If the boat is in water, make sure the seacock is closed.
Table 1 for the tightening torque of the pump retaining 2. Drain the seawater from the engine as described in
screws. Chapter Four.
3. Loosen the hose clamps, then detach the water hoses
from the seawater pump.
2GM, 2GM20,3GM and 3GM30 4. Loosen the seawater pump bracket and pivot bolts.
5. Move the seawater pump toward the engine and slip
1. If the boat is in water, make sure the seacock is closed. the drive belt off the pump pulley.
2. Drain the seawater from the engine as described in 6. Unscrew the pulley retaining nut (B, Figure 23), then
Chapter Four. remove the pulley for access to the pump mounting bolts.
3. Loosen the hose clamps, then detach the water hoses 7. Remove the mounting bolts (C, Figure 23), then sepa-
from the seawater pump. rate the pump from the mounting bracket.
8. Reverse the removal steps to install the pump. Refer to
4. Loosen the seawater pump bracket and pivot bolts (A, Table 1 for the tightening torque of the pump mounting
Figure 22). bolts. Adjust the belt tension as described in Chapter
5. Move the seawater pump toward the engine and slip Three.
the drive belt off the pump pulley.
6. Remove the pump mounting bolts (B, Figure 22), then
separate the pump from the mounting bracket.
7. Reverse the removal steps to install the pump. Refer to IGM and 1GMlO
Table 1 for the tightening torque of the pump mounting
bolts. Adjust the belt tension as described in Chapter 1. Remove the three screws securing the pump cover to
Three. the body (1, Figure 24).

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 COOLING SYSTEM 173

SEAWATER PUMP
(1GM AND 1 GM1O MODELS)

1. Screw 9. Seal
\ qi%?. 2. Cover 10. Seal
3. Gasket 11. Bearing
4. Impeller 12. Shaft
5. Cam 13. Snap ring
6. Cam retaining 14. Bearing
screw 15. Snap ring
16 7. Pump body 16. Bolt
1 8. O-ring 17. Washer

2. Remove the cover (2, Figure 24) and gasket (3). Dis- 10. Clean all metal components with solvent, then dry
card the gasket. them with compressed air.
3. Extract the impeller (4, Figure 24) from the pump 11. Thoroughly clean all gasket material from all mating
body. surfaces.
4. Rotate the pump shaft to check the bearings for rough- 12. Inspect the pump shaft (12, Figure 24) for grooves in
ness, excessive wear or other damage. Do not remove the the seal contact area.
shaft assembly unless replacement is necessary. 13. Inspect the impeller (4, Figure 24) for cracked blades
or excessive wear at the tips of the blades. Replace the im-
5. Unscrew the cam retaining screw (6, Figure 24), then peller if any defects are observed.
remove the cam (5). 14. Inspect the pump body and cover for grooves or other
6. Remove the snap ring (15, Figure 24) at the rear of the damage. A damaged or excessively worn body or cover
pump body. will reduce pump efficiency and may damage a new im-
7. Lightly tap the impeller shaft toward the rear of the peller.
pump to remove the impeller shaft and bearing assembly. 15. Install the shaft seal (9, Figure 24) so the lip is toward
the impeller side of the pump body.
NOTE 16. Install the oil seal (10, Figure 24) so the lip is toward
When removing bearings, note the snap ring the bearing side of the pump body.
located between the bearings. 17. If removed, install the snap ring (13, Figure 24) into
the groove in the impeller shaft.
8. Press the bearings (11 and 14, Figure 24) from the 18. Press the shaft bearings onto the pump shaft until they
pump shaft (12) using a universal press plate and arbor seat fully against the snap ring. Press only on the bearing
press. Force each bearing away from the locating snap inner races.
ring (13, Figure 24). 19. Install the shaft and bearing assembly into the body.
9. Extract or push out the seals (9 and 10, Figure 24). Install the snap ring (15, Figure 24).

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 174 CHAPTER EIGHT

20. Install the cam (5, Figure 24) and the cam retaining
screw (6).

NOTE
Replace the pump impeller anytime it is re-
moved from the pump. Ifthe original impel-
ler must be reused, make sure to install it in
the same rotational direction as originally
installed.
21. Lightly lubricate the tips and sides of the impeller. In-
stall the impeller into the pump body by rotating the im- Impeller
peller counterclockwise. Be certain all impeller blades direction
bend in the same direction (Figure 25).
22. Install the cover and gasket.
23. Install the three screws securing the pump cover to 16. Inspect the pump body and cover for grooves or other
the body. damage. A damaged or excessively worn body or cover
will reduce pump efficiency and may damage a new im-
peller.
2GM, 2GM20,3GM and 3GM30 17. Press the bearings onto the shaft with the spacer (7,
Figure 26) between the bearings. Seat the bearings
1 . Remove the six screws securing the pump cover (19, against the shoulder on the shaft. Press only on the bearing
Figure 26) to the body (12). inner races.
2. Remove the cover and gasket. Discard the gasket. 18. Install the seal (1 1 , Figure 26) into the pump body so
3. Extract the impeller (17, Figure 26) from the pump
the lip is toward the impeller side of the body.
body. 19. Install the cam (16, Figure 26), then install the cam
4. Rotate the pump shaft to check the bearings for rough- retaining screw (1 3).
ness, excessive wear or other damage. Do not remove the
20. Install the bearing cover (8, Figure 26) with the con-
shaft assembly unless replacement is necessary.
cave side toward the bearing.
5. Unscrew the pulley retaining nut, then remove the pul-
21. Install the seal ring (10, Figure 26) onto the shaft.
ley (3, Figure 26) and spacer (4).
22. Install the shaft assembly into the pump body.
6. Remove the snap ring (5, Figure 26) at the rear of the
23. Install the snap ring (5, Figure 26).
pump body.
24. Install the spacer (4, Figure 26), pulley (3), washer
7. Lightly tap the impeller shaft (9, Figure 26) toward the
(2) and nut (I), then tighten the nut.
front of the pump to remove the impeller shaft and bearing
assembly. NOTE
8. Unscrew the cam retaining screw (13, Figure 26), then Replace the pump impeller anytime it is re-
remove the cam (16). moved from the pump. Ifthe original impel-
9. Remove the seal ring (10, Figure 26) and bearing ler must be reused, make sure to install it in
cover (8) from the shaft. the same rotational direction as originally
10. Press the bearings from the pump shaft using a uni- installed.
versal press plate and arbor press. Force each bearing to-
ward the threaded end of the shaft. Note the spacer (7, 25. Lightly lubricate the tips and sides of the impeller. In-
Figure 26) between the bearings. stall the impeller into the pump body by rotating the im-
11. Extract or push out the seal. peller counterclockwise. Be certain all impeller blades
12. Clean all metal components in solvent, then dry them bend in the same direction (Figure 27).
with compressed air. 26. Install the cover (19, Figure 26) and gasket.
13. Thoroughly clean all gasket material from all mating 27. Install the six screws securing the pump cover to the
surfaces. body.
14. Inspect the pump shaft for grooves in the seal contact
area. 3HM and 3HM35
15. Inspect the impeller for cracked blades or excessive
wear at the tips of the blades. Replace the impeller if any 1. Remove the six screws (19, Figure 28) securing the
defects are observed. pump cover (1 8) to the body (12).

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 COOLING SYSTEM 175

SEAWATER PUMP
(2GM, 2GM20,3GM AND 3GM30 MODELS)

13. Cam retaining

2. Washer screw
3. Pulley 14. Elbow
4. Spacer 15. Elbow
5. Snap ring 16. Cam
6. Bearings 17. Impeller
7. Spacer 18. Gasket
5 8. Cover 19. Cover
9. Shaft 20. Screw
10. Seal ring 21. Bracket
11. Seal 22. Lockwasher
12. Pump body 23. Bolt

2. Remove the cover (18, Figure 28) and gasket (17).

Discard the gasket.
3. Extract the impeller (16, Figure 28) from the pump
body and remove the drive key (8).
4. Rotate the pump shaft to check the bearings for rough-
ness, excessive wear or other damage. Do not remove the
shaft assembly unless replacement is necessary.
5. Remove the snap ring (4, Figure 28).
6. Lightly tap the impeller shaft (7, Figure 28) toward the
front of the pump to remove the impeller shaft and bearing
assembly.
7. Unscrew the cam retaining screw (14, Figure 28), then
remove the cam (15).

NOTE
When removing bearings, note the snap ring
located between the bearings.

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 176 CHAPTER EIGHT

SEAWATER PUMP
(3HM AND 3HM35 MODELS)

1. Nut 11. Seal

2. Washer 12. Pump body
3. Pulley 13. Fitting
4. Snap ring 14. Cam retaining
5. Bearings screw
6. Snap ring 15. Cam
7. Shaft 16. Impeller
8. Key 17. Gasket
9. Cover 18. Cover
10. Washer 19. Screw

8. Press the bearings from the pump shaft using a univer- 17. Press the shaft bearings onto the pump shaft until
sal press plate and arbor press. Force each bearing away fully seated against the snap ring. Press only on the bear-
from the locating snap ring (6, Figure 28). ing inner races.
9. Extract or push out the seal (1 1, Figure 28). 18. Install the bearing cover (9, Figure 28) with the con-
10. Clean all metal components solvent, then dry them cave side toward the bearing.
with compressed air. 19. Install the washer (10, Figure 28) onto the shaft.
1 1 . Thoroughly clean all gasket material from all mating 20. Install the shaft assembly into the pump body. Install
surfaces. the snap ring (4, Figure 28).
12. Inspect the pump shaft for grooves in the seal contact 21. Install the slotted washers (2, Figure 28), pulley (3)
area. and nut (I), then tighten the nut.
13. Inspect the impeller for cracked blades or excessive 22. Install the impeller drive key (8, Figure 28) in the slot
wear at the tips of the blades. Replace the impeller if any in the impeller shaft.
defects are observed.
14. Inspect the pump body and cover for grooves or other NOTE
damage. A damaged or excessively worn body or cover Replace the pump impeller anytime it is re-
will reduce pump efficiency and may damage a new im- moved from the pump. lfthe original impel-
ler must be reused, be sure to install it in the
peller. same rotational direction as originally in-
15. Install the shaft seal (11, Figure 28) so the lip is to- stalled.
ward the impeller side of the pump body.
16. If removed, install the snap ring (6, Figure 28) into 23. Lightly lubricate the tips and sides of the impeller. In-
the groove in the impeller shaft. stall the impeller into the pump body by rotating the im-

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 COOLING SYSTEM 177

ant or water may leak from behind the pump pulley. It is

recommended that the pump be replaced as an assembly.
Individual replacement parts are available.

1. Drain the freshwater cooling system. Refer to Chapter

Four.

NOTE
I f pump pulley removal is not necessary,
proceed to Step 3.

2. Loosen, but do not remove, the pump pulley retaining

bolts (A, Figure 29).
3. Loosen the alternator adjusting and pivot bolts (B, Fig-
ure 29). Swivel the alternator toward the engine and re-
move the drive belt from the pump pulley.
4. Unscrew the pump pulley screws and remove the pul-
ley.
5. Unclamp and disconnect the hoses from the circulating
pump and detach any hose brackets that interfere with ac-
cess to the water pump bolts.

NOTE
Note the length ofthe pump retaining bolts
during removal and, if necessary, mark
them according to location.

6. Remove the pump retaining bolts (Figure 30). Re-

move the pump and gasket. Discard the gasket.
7. Clean all gasket residue from the pump and engine
block mounting surfaces.
8. Installation is the reverse of removal. Tighten the wa-
ter pump fasteners to the tightening torque specified in
Table 1. Adjust drive belts as described in Chapter Three.
Fill the freshwater section of closed cooling systems with
coolant. See Chapter Three. Start the engine and check for
leaks.

FRESHWATER COOLING SYSTEM

MAINTENANCE
peller counterclockwise. Be certain all impeller blades are
facing the same direction (Figure 27). Pressure Testing
24. Install the cover (1 8, Figure 28) and gasket.
If the freshwater (closed) cooling system requires fre-
25. Install the six screws securing the pump cover to the quent topping off, it probably has a leak. Small leaks in a
body. cooling system are not easy to locate; the hot coolant
evaporates as fast as it leaks out, preventing the formation
FRESHWATER PUMP of tell-tale rusty or grayish-white stains.
A pressure test of the freshwater section will usually
The freshwater circulating pump may warn of impend- help to pinpoint the source of the leak. The procedure is
ing failure by making noise. If the seal is defective, cool- very similar to that used in pressure testing automotive

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 COOLING SYSTEM 179

CLOSED COOLING SYSTEM DIAGRAM

Pressure fill car,

Seawater line

Seawater

10. Ifno signs of leakage can be found in Step 8 or Step 9, If extremely dirty or corroded, flush out the remaining
yet the coolant level continues to require frequent topping deposits with a pressure flushing device. Refer to the
off, there is probably an internal leak. This could be cooling system flow diagram (Figure 35) and follow the
caused by a blown head gasket, loose cylinder head, or a manufacturer's instructions regarding the connection of
cracked or porous head or block. the pressure flushing device and procedure to be fol-
lowed.

Cleaning
Cleaning the Seawater Section of the Heat
Exchanger
Flush and clean the freshwater section every other sea-
son or periodically as needed. Use any high-quality auto- Contaminants and minerals collect inside the copper
motive cooling system cleaning solution to remove scale, tubes in the seawater section of the heat exchanger during
rust, mineral deposits or other contamination. Use the engine operation. Such foreign material reduces the abil-
cleaning solution according to the manufacturer's direc- ity of the heat exchanger to operate efficiently and, if not
tions. removed periodically, will eventually lead to engine over-

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 180 CHAPTER EIGHT

FRESHWATER EXHAUST MANIFOLDIHEAT EXCHANGER

1. Pressure cap 13. Stud

2. Filler neck 14. Washer
3. Gasket 15. Nut
4. Overflow tube 16. Drain valve
5. Exhaust manifoldlheat 17. Plug
exchanger 18. End cap
6. Heat exchanger core 19. Fitting
7. Cover 20. Gasket
8. O-ring 21. Gasket
9. Gasket 22. Cover
10. End cap 23. Drain fitting
11. Elbow 24. Drain valve
12. O-ring

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 COOLING SYSTEM 181

Hose

Index
pin

4. Remove the heat exchanger (Figure 38).

NOTE
Heat exchanger Ifthe heat exchanger is plugged or contains
heavy scale deposits, take it to a marine
dealership or automotive radiator repair
shop for proper cleaning to avoid potential
damage to the unit.

5. Clean all gasket residue from the end caps and heat
exchanger sealing surfaces.
6. Insert an appropriate-size wire brush into each passage
O-rings in the heat exchanger. Work the brush back and forth with
a vigorous motion, but work carefully to avoid damage to
the soldered joints.
7. Remove the brush, hold the heat exchanger vertically
and blow loosened particles out with compressed air.
8. Repeat Step 6 and Step 7 as necessary to remove as
much of the accumulated deposits as possible.
heating. It is recommended to remove and clean the heat 9. Reinstall the heat exchanger by reversing the removal
exchanger whenever the coolant is changed. Refer to Fig- procedure. Position the heat exchanger so the index pins
ure 36. (Figure 39) in both ends fit in the holes in the end caps.
1 . Drain both sections of the cooling system. Refer to 10. Fill the freshwater section with coolant. Refer to
Chapter Four. Loosen the hose clamps and disconnect the Chapter Three. Start the engine and check for leaks.
seawater inlet and outlet hoses from the end caps (Figure
37). SEAWATER COOLING SYSTEM MAINTENANCE
2. Remove the end cap retaining bolts.
3. Remove the heat exchanger end caps. Remove and dis- The only maintenance required for the seawater cooling
card the gaskets. system is periodic flushing. Refer to Chapter Three.

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 182 CHAPTER EIGHT

Table 1 TIGHTENING TORQUES

Fastener N*m ft.-lb. in.-lb.
Seawater pump
lGM, lGMlO 9 - 80
All other models 25 18 -
Freshwater pump 20-25 - 177-221

Table 2 RECOMMENDED THERMOSTAT

Model Opening temperature Full open temperature I
All engines
Seawater system
Freshwater system

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 Chapter Nine

Electrical System

All engines covered in this manual are equipped with a Wiring diagrams are included at the end of this book. Ta-
12-volt, negative-ground electrical system. Many electri- ble 1 and Table 2 are located at the end of this chapter.
cal problems can be traced to a simple cause such as a
blown fuse, a loose or corroded connection, a loose alter- NOTE
nator drive belt or a frayed wire. While these are easily Except where speczjied, F and D series en-
corrected problems that may not appear to be important, gines are included when a basic model num-
ber is speczjied. For example, ifmodel 3GM
they can quickly lead to serious difficulty if allowed to go is called out in a procedure, the procedure
uncorrected. also applies to 3GMD and 3GMF
Complete overhaul of electrical components, such as
the alternator or starter motor, may not be practical or eco-
nomical. In some cases, the necessary bushings, bearings BATTERY
or other worn parts are not available for individual re-
Because batteries used in marine applications endure
placement.
far more rigorous treatment and are often used differently
If tests indicate a unit with problems other than those than those used in an automotive charging system, they
discussed in this chapter, replace it with a new or rebuilt are constructed differently. However, battery advance-
marine unit. Make certain, however, that the new or re- ments developed for automotive batteries have been ap-
built part is an exact replacement for the defective one re- plied to marine batteries. This has resulted in new battery
moved. Also be sure to isolate and correct the cause of the designs that provide the boater with more choices. A bat-
failure before installing a replacement. For example, an tery may be selected that better accommodates the electri-
uncorrected short in an alternator circuit will most likely cal requirements for the engine and the boat's accessories
burn out a new alternator as quickly as it damaged the old than the typical older, wet-cell battery designs.
one. If in doubt, always consult an expert. If buying a new battery, consult with a marine dealer-
This chapter provides service procedures for the bat- ship that sells a full line of marine batteries. To obtain the
tery, charging system, starting system and switches. best advice, provide the engine model and a list of electri-

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 ELECTRICAL SYSTEM 185

making or breaking any connection. Poor connections are

a common cause of electrical arcs that cause explosions.

Care and Inspection

The following battery maintenance information applies

to unsealed, wet-cell batteries. Although some of the pro-
cedures also apply to other types of batteries, consult the
battery manufacturer for specific recommendations.
1. Disconnect both battery cables (negative first, then
positive) and remove the battery hold-down or retainer
clamp. See Figure 1 for a typical open installation and
Figure 2 for a typical enclosed installation.

NOTE
Some batteries have a carry strap built in
for use in Step 2. See Figure 3.
2. Attach a battery carrier or carrier strap to the terminal
posts and lift the battery from the battery tray. Remove the
Test indicator battery from the engine compartment.
3. Check the entire battery case for cracks or other dam-
age.
4. If the battery has removable vent caps, cover the vent
holes in each cap with small pieces of masking tape.

NOTE
Keep cleaning solution out of the battery
cells in Step 5, or the electrolyte will be seri-
ously weakened.

5. Scrub the top of the battery with a stiff bristle brush,

using a baking soda and water solution (Figure 4). Rinse
the battery case with clear water and wipe it dry with a
clean cloth or paper towels. Remove the masking tape
Battery post cleaning tool from the filler cap vent holes, if so equipped.
6. Inspect the battery tray or container in the engine com-
partment for corrosion. Remove and clean it, if necessary,
with the baking soda and water solution. Rinse it with
clear water and wipe it dry, then reinstall.
7. Clean the battery cable clamps with a stiff wire brush
or one of the many tools made for this purpose (Figure 5).
The same tool is used for cleaning the battery posts (Fig-
ure 6).
8. Reposition the battery on the battery tray or container
and remove the carrier or strap. Install and tighten the
hold-down device.
9. Reinstall the positive battery cable, then the negative
battery cable.

CAUTION
Be sure the battery cables are connected to
their proper terminals. Reversing thepolar-
ity can damage the alternatol:

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 186 CHAPTER NINE

BATTERY ELECTROLYTE
LEVEL

F
Float

Electrolyte must
be 3/16 in. above
plates
10. Tighten the battery cable connections to 9 ft.-lb. (12
N-m). Overtightening the connections can cause damage
to the battery case. Coat the connections with petroleum
jelly, or a light mineral grease. Aerosol anti-corrosion
sprays can also be used.

NOTE
Do not overJill the battery cells in Step 11. the cells. Run the engine or charge the bat-
The electrolyte expands due to heat from tery for 15-20 minutes prior to testing.
charging and may overflow if the level is
more than 1/4 in. (6 mm) above the battery
Draw enough electrolyte to float the weighted float
plates.
inside the hydrometer. When using a temperature-compensated
hydrometer, release the electrolyte and repeat this process
11. Remove the filler caps and check the electrolyte several times to make sure the thermometer has adjusted
level. The electrolyte should cover the battery plates by at to the electrolyte temperature before taking the reading.
least 3/16 in. (4.8 mm). See Figure 7. Top off with dis-
tilled water to the bottom of the fill ring in each cell, if Hold the hydrometer vertically and note the number
necessary. aligned with the surface of the electrolyte (Figure 9). This
is the specific gravity for the cell. Return the electrolyte to
the cell from which it came.
Battery Testing The specific gravity of the electrolyte in each battery
cell is an excellent indicator of that cell's condition. A
Hydrometer testing is the best way to check battery fully charged cell will read 1.260 or more at 80" F (27" C).
condition. Use a hydrometer with numbered graduations If the cells test below 1.220, the battery must be re-
from 1.100-1.300 rather than one with color-coded bands. charged. Charging is also necessary if the specific gravity
To use the hydrometer, squeeze the rubber ball, insert the varies more than 50 points from cell to cell.
tip in a cell and release the ball (Figure 8).
NOTE
NOTE I f a temperature-compensated hydrometer
Do not attempt to test a battery with a hy- is not used, add 0.004 to the spec@ gravity
drometer immediately after adding water to reading for every 10" above 80" F (27" C).

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 ELECTRICAL SYSTEM 187

warm up to room temperature before charging. The bat-

tery does not have to be removed from the boat before
NEEDS FULLY charging, but it is a recommended procedure since a
DEAD CHARGING CHARGED charging battery gives off highly explosive hydrogen gas.
In many boats, the area around the battery is not well ven-
tilated and the gas may remain in the area for several
hours after the charging procedure has been completed.
Sparks or flames occurring near the battery can cause it to
explode, spraying battery acid over a wide area.
Disconnect the negative battery cable first, then the
positive battery cable. Make sure the electrolyte is full.
Remove the vent caps and place a folded paper towel over
the vent openings to absorb any electrolyte that may splat-
ter as the battery charges.
Connect the charger to the battery; negative to negative,
positive to positive. If the charger output is variable, select
a 10-12 amp setting. Set the voltage selector to 12 volts
and plug the charger in. Once the battery starts to accept a
charge, reduce the charge rate to a level that will prevent
excessive gassing.
The length of time required to recharge a battery de-
pends upon its rating, state of charge and temperature.
Generally speaking, the current input time should equal
the battery amp-hour rating. For example, a 45 AH battery
will require a 9-amp charging rate for five hours (9 x 5 =
45) or a 15-amp charging rate for three hours (1 5 x 3 =
45). Check charging progress with the hydrometer.

Jump Starting

If the battery becomes discharged, it is possible to start

Weight
and run the engine by jump starting it from another bat-
tery.
- Before jump starting a battery when temperatures are
32" F (0" C) or lower, check the condition of the electro-
lyte. If it is not visible or if it appears to be frozen, do not
attempt to jump start the battery, as the battery may ex-
plode or rupture.
For every 10" below 80" F (27" C), subtract
WARNING
0.004.
Use extreme caution when connecting a
booster battery to one that is discharged to
Charging avoidpersonal injury or damage to the sys-
tem.
Maintain batteries used for starting in a good state of
1. Connect the jumper cables in the order and sequence
charge. Check the battery with a voltmeter as shown in
shown in Figure 11.
Figure 10. Recharge any battery that cannot deliver at
least 9.6 volts under a starting load. If recharging does not WARNING
bring it up to strength or if it does not hold the charge, re- An electrical arc may occur when the final
place the battery. connection is made. This could cause an ex-
A cold battery will not accept a charge readily. If the plosion ifit occurs near the battery. For this
temperature is below 40" F (5" C), allow the battery to reason, thefinal connection should be made

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 188 CHAPTER NINE

to the alternator mounting bracket or an-

other good engine ground and not the bat-

I-
tery itseg
Make connections in numerical order
(disconnect in reverse order 4-3-2-1)
2. Check that all jumper cables are out ofthe way of mov-
ing parts on both engines.
3. Start the engine with the good battery and run at a mod-
erate speed. umper cable
4. Start the engine with the discharged battery. Once it
starts, run it at a moderate speed.

CAUTION
Racing the engine may damage the electri- battery
cal system. I Discharged battery

5. Remove the jumper cables in the exact reverse order

shown in Figure 11. Begin at point 4, then disconnect at on the battery. Check cable condition and terminal con-
points 3 , 2 and 1. nections periodically.

Battery Cables
ELECTRICAL PROTECTION
Poor terminal connections will cause excessive resis-
tance. Defective cable insulation can cause partial short Some electrical systems are equipped with a battery
circuits. Both conditions may result in an abnormal volt- cutoff switch connected between the positive terminal of
age drop in the starter motor cable. When this happens, the battery and the starter solenoid. The switch provides a
the resulting hard-start condition will place further strain means to cut off all circuits from the battery in case of fire

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 ELECTRICAL SYSTEM 189

CHARGING SYSTEM
(TYPICAL)

Alternator

Battery

Battery
,Itch

or other electrical emergencies. Using the cutoff switch these basic rules could result in heat or fire damage to ma-
also prevents any electrical drain on the battery. jor parts or even the loss of the entire vessel.

All engines are equipped with a 30-amp fuse installed

in the wiring harness between the ignition switch and CHARGING SYSTEM
starter motor. If a failure occurs in any part of the electri-
The charging system consists of the battery, alternator,
cal system, always check the fuse first to see if it is blown.
voltage regulator, ignition switch, charge lamp and con-
Usually, the trouble is a short circuit in the wiring. This
necting wiring. All engines are equipped with a Hitachi
may be caused by worn insulation or by a wire that has
alternator. Refer to Figure 12 for a typical charging
worked its way loose and shorted to ground.
system.
Treat a blown fuse as more than a minor annoyance; it
serves as a warning that something is wrong in the electri- Preliminary Testing
cal system. Before replacing a fuse, determine what
. caused it to blow and correct the problem. Always carry The first indication of charging system trouble is usu-
several spare fuses of the proper amperage values ally a slow engine cranking speed or running lights that
onboard. Never replace a fuse with one of higher amper- dim as engine speed decreases. This will often occur long
age rating than that specified for use. Failure to follow before the ammeter or voltmeter indicates that there is a

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 192 CHAPTER NINE

STARTER MOTOR
(EXCEPT 3HM AND 3HM35 MODELS)

1. Bolt 17. Brush (pos.)

2. Lockwasher 18. Brush (neg.)
3. Drive end housing 19. Brush spring
4. Bushing 20. Brush plate
5. Dust cover 21. Commutator end cover
6. Yoke 22. Bushing
7. Spring 23. Washer
8. Shims 24. Washer
9. Solenoid 25. E-clip
10. Retaining ring 26. Cover
11. Retainer 27. Lockwasher
12. Drive 28. Screw
13. Center plate 29. Throughbolt
14. Armature 30. Screw
15. Frame assembly 31. Lockwasher
16. Positive lead

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 ELECTRICAL SYSTEM 193

STARTER MOTOR
(3HM AND 3HM35 MODELS)

1. Bolt 18. Center plate

2. Lockwasher 19. Armature
3. Drive end housing 20. Washer
4. Bushing 21. Washer
5. Clip 22. Frame assembly
6. Dust cover 23. Positive lead
7. Yoke 24. Positive brush
8. Actuator 25. Brush plate
9. Washers 26. Negative brush
10. Shims 27. Brush spring
11. Solenoid 28. Bushing
12. Pin 29. Commutator end cap
13. Stopper washer 30. Lockwasher
14. Circlip 31. Screw
15. Retainer 32. Lockwasher
16. Drive 33. Throughbolt
17. Bushing

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 194 CHAPTER NINE

Closed spring
end

11. To replace ground (negative) brushes, remove the

brush lead attaching screws from the starter frame. Re-
move the brushes and install new ones.
12. To replace field coil brushes, cut the insulated brush
leads as close as possible to the field coils. Attach new
brush leads and solder the connections together with rosin
core solder and a 300-watt soldering iron.

NOTE
Always replace brushes in complete sets.

13. Install the brush end holder.

14. Pull back and hold the brush retaining clip with a wire
hook, then install the brush. Repeat this step to install the
remaining brushes. Make sure the brush springs rest in the
small cutout on top of each brush.
15. Reassembly is the reverse of Steps 1-6.
8. Inspect brush and brush spring condition. Measure
brush length. Replace all brushes if any are oil-soaked or
3HM and 3HM35 models worn to 14 mm (0.55 in.) or less in length. Replace any
broken or distorted brush springs.
Brush replacement requires partial disassembly of the 9. To replace ground (negative) brushes, remove the
starter. brush lead attaching screws from the starter frame. Re-
1. Disconnect the positive lead (23) from the solenoid. move the brushes and install new ones.
2. Remove the brush holder retaining screws (3 1, Figure 10. To replace field coil (positive) brushes, cut the insu-
17). lated brush leads as close as possible to the field coils. At-
3. Remove the two throughbolts (33, Figure 17). tach new brush leads and solder the connections together
4. Separate the end cap (29) from the starter. with rosin core solder and a 300-watt soldering iron.
5. Note the position of the brushes in the brush holder.
NOTE
Use a suitable tool to pull back and hold the brush retain- Always replace brushes in complete sets.
ing clip, then remove the brush. See Figure 20, typical.
Repeat this step to remove the remaining brushes. 11. Install the brush end holder.
6. Remove the brush holder from the armature shaft. 12. Pull back and hold the brush retaining clip with a wire
7. Use an ohmmeter or self-powered test lamp to check hook, then install the brush. Repeat this step to install the
for continuity between the insulated brush holder and the remaining brushes. Make sure the brush springs rest in the
base of the brush holder assembly. See Figure 21. If there small cutout on top of each brush.
is continuity, replace the brush holder. 13. Reassembly is the reverse of Steps 1-4.

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 ELECTRICAL SYSTEM 197

3. To determine if a bulb is defective, substitute a good

bulb. All warning lamps use the same type of bulb.

Coolant temperature
\ sender Charging System Warning Lamp

The warning lamp for the charging circuit should illu-

minate when the key switch is ON and the engine is not
running, or when there is a malfunction in the charging
circuit.
1. To check the circuit for the charging system warning
lamp, detach the lead from the L terminal on the alterna-
tor.
2. With the key switch ON, ground the detached lead.
The charge system warning lamp should come on.
3. To determine if the charging system bulb is defective,
substitute a good bulb. All warning lamps use the same
type of bulb.
4. If a good bulb does not light, check the charging sys-
tem as described in Chapter Two.

ALARM BUZZER
I Positive
The alarm buzzer provides an audible warning in addi-
iai
tion to the coolant and oil pressure warning lamps. Two
types of alarm buzzers are used: a buzzer with two leads
and a buzzer with multiple leads. Note the terminal loca-
tions in Figure 28 for the buzzer equipped with multiple
leads.
. To 1. Check the alarm buzzer while it is installed.
891nsors a. Detach the lead from the coolant temperature or oil
pressure sender.
b. With the key switch ON, ground the sender lead.
The alarm buzzer should come on.
I 2. Check the alarm buzzer with all leads disconnected
from the buzzer or with the buzzer removed from the in-
strument panel.
WARNING LAMPS
a. On the buzzer with multiple terminals, note the ter-
minal locations in Figure 28.
Engines covered by this manual are equipped with an b. Connect a 12-volt battery to the terminals as fol-
instrument panel that has three warning lamps. The warn- lows: Connect a positive battery lead to positive
ing lamps illuminate to indicate high coolant temperature, buzzer terminal. Connect the negative battery lead
low oil pressure or insufficient charging current. to each of the remaining buzzer terminals. The
buzzer should sound; if it does not, replace the
buzzer.
Coolant and Oil Pressure Warning Lamps

TACHOMETER
1. To check the circuit for the coolant or oil pressure
warning lamp, detach the lead from the coolant tempera- Some engines may be equipped with a tachometer. A
ture or oil pressure sender. sensor located on the clutch housing (Figure 29) provides
2. With the key switch ON, ground the sender lead. The an electrical signal that drives the tachometer. The elec-
warning lamp should come on. tromagnetic sensor counts the teeth on the flywheel ring

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 200 CHAPTER TEN

0 CONE CLUTCH

Input shaft

\ ~ o u ~ lflange
l n ~
Reverse
Drive Reverse gear
Fomard cone idler
gear gear

SHIFTER (KM2A, KMPC AND KM3A MODELS)

1. Connector
2. Circllp
3. Spring retainer
4. Spring
5. Circllp
6. Holder
7. Cotter pin
8. Washer
9. Stud
10. Shift lever
11. Bolt
12. Seal
13. Setscrew
14. Spring
15. Detent pin
16. Body
17. Gasket
18. Plug
19. O-ring
20. Bearing
21. Shift shaft
22. Shifter

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 TRANSMISSION-KM SERIES 201

0 SHIFTER (KMPP AND KM3P MODELS)

8
1. Shoulder bolt
2. Connector
3. Shift lever
4. Washer
5. Nut
6. Stop bolt
7. Shims
8. Bolt
9. Seal
10. Bolt
11. Shift body
12. O-ring
13. Shift shaft
14. Detent pin
15. Pin
16. Spring
17. Shifter

forces the shifter to push the clutch cone into the gear. The sary, refer to Chapter Five for single-cylinder models and
springs in the shift actuator hold the shifter in position. Chapter Six for multi-models.
The shifter mechanism on Model KM2P and KM3P 1. If not previously disconnected, disconnect the remote
transmissions includes a spring-loaded shifter (Figure 4). control cable from the transmission shift lever.
Movement of the shift lever forces the shifter to move the
2. If not previously disconnected, disconnect the drive
cone clutch against the forward or reverse gear. Detent
notches in the shift housing hold the shifter pin in posi- coupling from the transmission drive flange.
tion. 3. Remove the bolts that secure the transmission to the
engine bellhousing.

REMOVALIINSTALLATION 4. Remove the transmission from the engine.

5. Reinstall the transmission by reversing the removal
The following procedure addresses units that are acces- procedure. Make sure to align the splines on the transmis-
sible. In some cases, it may be necessary to remove the en- sion input shaft and the drive disc during installation.
gine and transmission as a unit before removing the Tighten the transmission retaining bolts to the torque
transmission from the engine. If engine removal is neces- specified in Table 2.

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 204 CHAPTER TEN

Intermediate shaft

1. Remove and discard the O-ring (Figure 14) at the end Intermediate
of the shaft. shaft Reverse
/ idler aear
2. Remove the thrust washer, gear and roller bearings.
3. Inspect the bearings, shaft and reverse idler gear inside
diameter for excessive wear, grooves, metal transfer and
discoloration from overheating. If necessary, replace the
shaft, gear and bearings.
4. Check the idler gear teeth for excessive wear, corro-
Roller /
sion or rust and mechanical damage. Check the teeth for bearings O-ring
galling, chips, cracks, missing pieces, distortion or discol-
oration from overheating. If necessary, replace the gear.
5. Reassemble the intermediate shaft. Install a new
O-ring on the shaft. 8. Inspect the forward and reverse gear inside diameters
for excessive wear, grooves, metal transfer and discolor-
ation from overheating. If necessary, replace the gears.
Output shaft
9. Install the cone clutch on the output shaft and check
movement of the clutch on the output shaft. If the clutch
Refer to Figure 15.
does not move smoothly, inspect the splines on the clutch
1. Using a suitable puller (Figure 16), remove the bear- and shaft for burrs, scoring, galling or other signs of dam-
ing, spacer and reverse gear from the output shaft. age. If dressing will not correct the damaged splines, re-
2. The retaining nut at the end of the shaft is staked. Use a place the clutch and/or shaft.
chisel to cut away the staked portion so the nut will rotate. 10. Inspect the tapered surface of the forward and reverse
To hold the output shaft, position the coupling flange in a gears for galling, scoring or other damage that will pre-
vise, then set the output shaft into the splines in the flange vent smooth cone clutch engagement. If necessary, re-
as shown in Figure 17. place the gears.
11. Install the cone clutch into the forward and reverse
NOTE
gears. Measure clutch depth as shown in Figure 18. Com-
The retaining nut has left-hand threads.
pare the measurement with the specification in Table 3.
3. Unscrew the retaining nut by rotating the nut clock-
Replace the part, in necessary.
wise (left-hand threads). 12. Measure the width of the shifter groove in the cone
clutch (Figure 19) and compare with the specification in
4. Using a suitable puller, pull the bearing, spacer and
Table 4.
forward gear off the output shaft.
13. Inspect the roller bearings and inner bearing races for
5. Remove the pin from the shaft. excessive wear, grooves, metal transfer and discoloration
from overheating. If necessary, replace the bearings and
NOTE
Mark the clutch cone in Step 6 according to inner races.
forward or reverse end so it can be rein- 14. Measure the wear surface of the thrust washers. If
stalled in its original position. wear exceeds 0.20 mm (0.008 in.) on the thin thrust
washer, replace the washer. If wear exceeds 0.05 mm
6. While holding the clutch cone, tap the end of the shaft (0.002 in.) on the thick thrust washer, replace the washer.
with a soft-faced hammer to remove the inner roller bear- 15. On KM2P and KM3P transmissions-Measure the
ing race, spacer and cone clutch. A suitable puller or press width of the spring cups and compare them with the speci-
may also be used. Remove the remaining inner bearing fications in Table 5.
race and spacer. 16. On KM2P and KM3P transmissions-Measure the
7. Check the forward and reverse gear teeth for excessive width of the spring cup retainers and compare them with
wear, corrosion and mechanical damage. Check the teeth the specifications in Table 5. If any surface wear on the
for galling, chips, cracks, missing pieces, distortion or dis- retainer exceeds 0.10 mm (0.004 in.), replace the retainer.
coloration from overheating. If necessary, replace the 17. Assemble the output shaft by reversing the disassem-
gears. bly procedure while noting the following:

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 TRANSMISSION-KM SERIES 205

OUTPUT SHAFT
4

1. Shims
2. Nut (LH)
3. Washer
4. Roller bearing
5. Thrust washer
6. Retainer (KM2P and KM3P)
7. Spring cup (KM2P and KM3P)
8. Forward gear
9. Needle bearing
10. Inner bearing race
11. Thrust washer
12. Pin
13. Output shaft
14. Clutch cone
15. Reverse gear

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 206 CHAPTER TEN

SHIFTER (KMPA, KMPC AND KM3A MODELS)

1. Connector 12. Seal

2. Circlip 13. Setscrew
14. Spring
15. Detent pin
16. Body
6. Holder 17. Gasket
7. Cotter pin 18. Plug
8. Washer 19. O-ring
9. Stud 20. Bearing
10. Shift lever 21. Shift shaft
11. Bolt 22. Shifter

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 TRANSMISSION-KM SERIES 207

h. Tighten the nut (left-hand threads) to the torque

Neutral hole
specified in Table 2.
I i. Make sure the gears rotate freely.
j. Stake the nut to lock the nut in place.

Shifter (KM2A, KM2C and KM3A models)

Refer to Figure 20.

1. Ifnot previously removed, detach the cotter pin and re-
move the actuator from the shift lever.
2. Remove the shifter.

NOTE
~eutra'lnotch Make alignment marks on the shift lever and
shift shaft so the shift lever can be rein-
stalled in its original position.

3. Loosen the clamp bolt and remove the shift lever.

NOTE
The setscrew and plug contain the springs
and mayfly out.

I t 5 mm (0.20 in.) 4. Remove the setscrew and plug, then remove the
springs and detent pins.
5. Remove the shifter shaft.
6. Remove and discard the O-ring.
7. Use a screwdriver or suitable tool to pry out the seal.
Be careful not to damage the bearing.
8. Inspect the bearing. If it is faulty, replace it as follows:
a. Heat the shifter body to 2 12O F (1 00° C), then drive
out the bearing.
b. Install the new bearing with the stamped end out.
Push in the bearing until it bottoms.
9. Inspect the shift shaft. Check the detent portion of the
a. If reinstalling the original clutch cone, install it in its shaft for cracks or excessive wear that will allow poor
original position-forward end toward the forward clutch engagement. The ramps should be smooth and the
gear. neutral detent hole should be unworn (Figure 21).
b. Install the pin before installing the inner roller bear- 10. Inspect the detent pins. Replace the pins if they are
ing race. damaged or excessively worn.
c. Use a suitable tool or sleeve to drive the inner roller 11. Inspect the springs for deformation or other damage.
bearing race onto the shaft. Do not use excessive Specified spring free length is 34 mm (1.34 in.).
force. Drive the race onto the shaft until it bottoms. 12. Inspect the shifter for damage and excessive wear.
d. Use a suitable tool or sleeve to drive the tapered Measure the shifter width and shaft diameter. Replace the
roller bearing onto the shaft. Do not use excessive shifter if the measurements exceed the specifications in
force. Drive the bearing onto the shaft until it bot- Table 6 .
toms. 13. Check the internal movement of the actuator. The ac-
e. On KM2P and KM3P transmissions-Install the tuator.should slide without binding. To check spring ten-
spring cups so the cupped side is toward the gear. sion, attach a spring scale to the threaded end of the
f. Install each thick thrust washer so the stepped side actuator and measure the spring tension when the actuator
is toward the tapered roller bearing. rod is pulled 5 mm (0.20 in.) from the end of the tube (Fig-
g. Install the washer so the pin in the output shaft fits ure 22). Ifthe spring tension is not as specified in Table 6,
in the groove in the washer. replace the spring.

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 208 CHAPTER TEN

14. Reassemble the shifter by reversing the disassembly

procedure. Note the following during reassembly:
a. Apply sealant to the detent setscrew threads.
b. Install the shift lever-on the shift shaft while align-
ing the marks made during disassembly.
c. If no alignment marks are available when installing
the shift lever, rotate the shift shaft so the shifter
bore is down as shown in Figure 23. The shift shaft
should engage the neutral detent. Install the shift le-
ver at a 45O angle as shown in Figure 23.
d. Install the shift lever on the shift shaft so the side Shifter
bore
clearance between the lever and body is approxi-
mately 0.5 mm (0.020 in.).

Shifter (KM2Pand KM3P models)

Refer to Figure 24.

1. If not previously removed, remove the control cable
connector from the shift lever.
2. Remove the shifter and spring.
3. Remove the stop bolt and shims. transmission, install the shift lever so the side with
4. Loosen the clamp bolt and remove the shift lever. the triangle mark is toward the shifter body. With
5. Remove the shifter shaft. the shift shaft in neutral, position the shift lever at a
6. Remove and discard the O-ring. 45" angle as shown in Figure 26 and tighten the
7. Use a screwdriver or suitable tool to pry out the seal. clamp bolt.
Be careful not to damage the bearing.
8. Inspect the shift shaft. Check the detent pin for damage REASSEMBLY
and excessive wear. If necessary, replace the detent pin.
Measure the shifter shaft bore in the shift shaft and com- NOTE
pare with the specifications in Table 7. On KM2P and KM3P transmissions, refer
9. Inspect the body for galling, scoring or other damage to the Bearing Adjustment section prior to
to the bore. Inspect the detents for damage and excessive reassembly if the following components
have been replaced: input shaft, input shaft
wear that will cause poor clutch engagement (Figure 25). bearings, output shaft, thrust washers and
10. Inspect the spring for deformation or other damage. output shaft bearings.
Specified spring free length is 22.6 mm (0.89 in.). Mini-
mum spring length is 19.8 mm (0.78 in.). 1. If removed, install the outer bearing races into the
1 1 . Inspect the stop bolt. Replace it if it is excessively transmission case and mounting flange.
worn. 2. Apply sealer to the outside diameter of the oil seals and
12. Inspect the shifter. Measure the large diameter of the install them into the transmission case and mounting
shifter shaft and compare it with the specifications in Ta- flange with the open side to the inside.
ble 7. 3. Install the input shaft into the transmission case.
13. Reassemble the shifter by reversing the disassembly 4. Install the intermediate shaft assembly into the trans-
procedure, but do not install the stop bolt until final instal- mission case. Install a new O-ring on the intermediate
lation of the shifter assembly on the transmission. shaft. Use a soft-faced hammer to tap the shaft into the
14. Reassemble the shifter by reversing the disassembly case.
procedure. Note the following during reassembly: 5. While holding the input shaft out of the way, insert the
a. Do not install the stop bolt until final installation of output shaft assembly into the transmission case. Move
the shifter assembly on the transmission. the gears into mesh on the intermediate shaft, input shaft
b. Rotate the shift shaft so the detent pin engages the and output shaft while installing the output shaft.
neutral detent (Figure 25). On the KM2P transmis- 6. If the following components have been replaced, refer
sion, install the shift lever so the side with the trian- to the Bearing Adjustment section: input shaft, input shaft
gle mark (A, Figure 26) is out. On the KM3P bearings, output shaft, thrust washers and output shaft

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 TRANSMISSION-KM SERIES 209

SHIFTER (KM2P AND KM3P MODELS)

1. Shoulder bolt
2. Connector
3. Shift lever
4. Washer
5. Nut
6. Stop bolt
7. Shims
8. Bolt
9. Seal
10. Bolt
11. Shift body
12. O-ring
13. Shift shaft
14. Detent pin
15. Pin
16. Spring
17. Shifter

SHIFTER DETENTS
(KM2P AND KM3P MODELS

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 210 CHAPTER TEN

bearings. After adjusting the bearings, continue to reas-

semble the transmission as described in the following
steps. If the preceding components have not been re-
placed, bearing adjustment is not necessary and the
orginal shims may be reused. Proceed to the following
step.
7. Position the transmission on a vise with soft jaws so
the input shaft is held by the vise jaws.
8. Apply sealer to the mounting flange and install it onto
the transmission case.
9. Tighten the mounting flange retaining bolts to the
torque in Table 2.
10. Install the output flange on the output shaft.
11. Install the O-ring on the output shaft.

NOTE
The output flange retaining nut has
left-hand threads.

12. Install the output flange retaining nut by rotating the

nut counterclockwise (left-hand threads). Tighten the nut
to the torque specified in Table 2.
13. Stake the nut to lock the nut in place. Shift
14A. On KM2A, KM2C and KM3A transmissions-In- shaft
stall the shifter assembly on the transmission using the
following procedure:

NOTE
Note that the bolt holes in the shifter mount-
ing flange are suflciently large to allow
movement of the flange around the bolts.

a. Install the shifter assembly on the transmission and

tighten the retaining bolts.
b. Measure the amount of shift lever travel from neu-
tral to forward and from neutral to reverse (Figure
27). The measurement should be equal from neutral
to either forward or reverse. C
c. Loosen the shifter retaining bolts and slide the - 1
shifter assembly fore or aft as needed to obtain
equal shift lever movement.
14B. On KM2P and KM3P-Install the shifter assembly
on the transmission using the following procedure. 4 Bolt length
a. Position the shifter so its curvature is as shown in
Figure 28.
b. Install the shifter assembly on the transmission and
tighten the retaining bolts.
c. Move the shift lever 10- 15" from the neutral posi- e. Subtract the length of the stop bolt from the shifter
tion to either forward or reverse position. shaft depth.
d. Measure the depth of the end of the shifter shaft
from the end of the shift shaft as shown in Figure f. Install shims on the stop bolt that equal the result of
28. Measure the length ofthe stop bolt (Figure 29). substep e.

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 TRANSMISSION-KM SERIES 211

g. Apply sealer to the stop bolt threads, but not to the

Input shaft threads at the end of the bolt (approximately 0.20
n in.). Install the stop bolt into the shifter.
Output
shaft

BEARING ADJUSTMENT

Perform the following procedure if the following com-

ponents have been replaced: input shaft, input shaft bear-
ings, output shaft, thrust washers and output shaft
bearings. This procedure determines the thickness of
shims that must be installed so the tapered roller bearings
properly contact the bearing outer races.

KMZA, KM2C and KM3A

1. Install the input shaft, intermediate shaft and output

shafts as described in the Reassembly section.
2. Position the transmission case so the open end is up
and no pressure is being applied to the splined end of the
output shaft.
3. Install the outer bearing races on the input and output
shaft tapered bearings.
4. Measure the distance (A, Figure 30) in millimeters
from the mounting flange mating surface on the case to
the top of each bearing race. Record the measurements.
5. Measure the distance (B, Figure 31) from the mount-
ing flange mating surface to the bottom of the bearing race
bore for both the input and output shaft bearings.
6. Subtract the A measurement from the B measurement
for each shaft.
7. From the result obtained in Step 6, subtract 0.0-0.05
mm. This result equals the thickness of the shim(s) that
must be installed in the bearing bores in the mounting
flange.
8. Install the shim(s) in the bearing bores in the mounting
flange, then press the bearing outer races into the mount-
ing flange on top of the shims. Make sure the races are
bottomed.

KMZP and KM3P

Input shaft

NOTE
The following procedure for adjusting the
input shaft bearings is similar to the proce-
dure for the KM2A, KM2C KM3A transmis-
sions, but only use the callouts in Figure 30
and Figure 31 that pertain to the input
shaft.

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 212 CHAPTER TEN

1. Install the input shaft assembly in the transmission

case.
2. Position the transmission case so the open end is up.
3. Install the outer bearing race on the input shaft tapered
bearing.
4. Measure the distance (A, Figure 30) in millimeters
from the mounting flange mating surface on the case to
the top of the bearing race. Record the measurement.
5. Measure the distance (B, Figure 31) from the mount-
ing flange mating surface to the bottom of the bearing race
bore for the input shaft bearing.
6. Subtract the A measurement from the B measurement.
7. From the result obtained in Step 6, subtract 0.0-0.05
mm. This result equals the thickness of the shim(s) that
must be installed in the bearing bore in the mounting
flange.
8. Install the shim(s) in the bearing bore in the mounting
flange, then press the bearing outer race into the mounting
flange on top of the shims. Be sure the race is bottomed.

Output Shaft

In the following procedure to adjust bearing preload,

the neutral position of the clutch cone must be established
for proper transmission operation. The desired clutch
cone groove centerline on Model KM2P is 48.3 mm from
the mating surface of the transmission case. On Model
KM3P the desired clutch groove centerline is 47.3 mm
from the mating surface of the transmission case.

NOTE
To perform the following bearing adjust-
mentprocedure, the output shaft must be out
of the case and the outer bearing races must
be on the bearings and not installed in the
case or mountingflange.
5. Measure and record the distance (E, Figure 34) from
1. Measure and record the distance (A, Figure 32) from the face of the reverse gear and the face of the rear bearing
the mounting flange mating surface to the bottom of the race.
bearing race bore for the output shaft bearing. 6A. On KM2P transmissions-To determine rear shim
2. Measure and record the distance (B, Figure 33) from thickness (Figure 35), proceed as follows:
the mounting surface of the case to the bottom of the bear- a. Subtract 48.3 mm from measurement (B, Figure
ing race bore for the output shaft bearing. 33).
3. Measure and record the distance (C, Figure 34) from b. Divide measurement (D, Figure 34) by 2.
the faces of the output shaft bearing races. c. Subtract substep b from substep a.
d. Subtract measurement (E, Figure 34) from substep
NOTE C.
In Steps 4 and 5, force the gears toward the
cone clutch. e. Subtract 0.0-0.05 mm from substep d. The result is
the required rear shim thickness.
4. Measure and record the distance (D, Figure 34) be- 6B. On KM3P transmissions-To determine rear shim
tween the faces of the forward and reverse gears. thickness (Figure 35), proceed as follows:

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 214 CHAPTER TEN

Table 1 ENGINEITRANSMISSION MODELS

Transmission ratio
1 Model Transmission (forward gear)
KM2A
KM2C or KM2P
KM2A
KM2A
KM2C or KM2P
KM2C or KM2P
KBWlOD
KBWlOD
KM3A
KM3A or KM3P
KM3A or KM3P
KBWlOE
KBWlOE
KBWlOE

Table 2 TIGHTENING TORQUES

I Fastener N*m ft.-lb. I
Transmission mounting flange
Output shaft nut
Output flange nut
Drive disc

Table 3 CLUTCH DEPTH

Normal depth Wear limit 1
24.4-24.7 mm 24.1 mm
(0.961-0.972 in.) (0.949 in.)
29.2-29.8 mm 28.1 mm
(1.150-1 .I73 in.) (1.106 in.)
29.9-30.2 mm 29.6 mm
(1.177-1.189 in.) (1 .I65 in.)
32.7-33.3 mm 32.4 mm
(1.287-1.31 1 in.) (1.276 in.)

Table 4 CLUTCH GROOVE WIDTH

I Standard width Wear limit I
I KMZA, KM2C and KM3A 8.0-8.1 mm
(0.31 5-0.31 9 in.)
8.3 mm
(0.327 in.)

Table 5 OUTPUT SHAFT

Standard width Wear limit
Thrust washer
Thin washer - 0.20 mm
(0.008 in.)
Thick washer - 0.05 mm
(0.002 in.)

1 (continued)

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 TRANSMISSION-KM SERIES 215

Table 5 OUTPUT SHAFT (continued)

b-
Spring cup (KMSP, KM3P) 2.8-3.1 mm 2.6 mm
(0.110-0.122 in.) (0.102 in.)
Spring cup retainer (KM2P; KM3P) 2.92-3.08 mm 2.8 mm
(0.1 15-0.121 in.) (0.110 in.)

Table 6 SHIFTER (KMZA, KM2C AND KM3A)

Shifter width
Standard 7.80-7.85 mm (0.3071 -0.3091 in.)
Wear limit 7.7 mm (0.303 in.)
Shifter shaft diameter
Standard 9.986-9.995 mm (0.3931-0.3935 in.)
Wear limit 9.95 mm (0.392 in.)
Detent spring free length 34 mm (1.34 in.).
Actuator spring tension
Standard 2.8 kg (6.2 Ib.)
Min. 2.5 kg (5.5 Ib.)

Table 7 SHIFTER (KM2P AND KM3P)

Shifter spring free length
Standard 22.6 mm (0.89 in.)
Min. 19.8 mm (0.78 in.).
Shifter shaft diameter
Standard 11.966-11.984 mm (0.471 1-0.471 8 in.)
Wear limit 11.95 mm (0.470 in.)
Shift shaft bore
Standard 12.0-12.018 mm (0.4724-0.4731 in.)
Wear limit 12.05 mm (0.474 in.)

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 Chapter Eleven

Transmission-KBW Series

This chapter covers the Kanzaki Hurth KBWlOD and

KBWlOE marine transmissions that are attached to
Yanrnar 3GM, 3HM and 3HM35 engines. Refer to Table
1 for a cross-reference of engine and transmission models.
The identification plate (Figure 1) located on the trans- MARINE GEAR MOML KBW 10
mission case specifies the transmission model. GEAR RATIO
The KBWlO series transmissions covered in this chap-
ter are inline transmissions that provide forward and re- OIL OTY. 0 . 7 LTR.
verse direction. All gears are constant mesh. A plate-type
OSAKA !$A-N?rA
, A<I JAPAN
clutch engages the gears to transmit power to the output
shaft. Oil contained in the transmission case lubricates the
internal transmission components.
Refer to Chapter Three for maintenance information.
Tables 1-3 are located at the end of this chapter.
shown engaged with the forward gear. Because power
OPERATION flows from the input shaft gear through the reverse idler
gear to the reverse gear, the reverse gear rotates in the op-
The input shaft on the transmission engages the drive posite direction of the forward gear. When the clutch en-
disc attached to the engine flywheel. Because this is a con- gages the reverse gear, the output shaft rotates in reverse.
stant-mesh transmission, engine power is transmitted to Moving the shift lever rotates the shift shaft. When the
all gears. Power flows to the output shaft when the clutch shift shaft rotates, the shifter fork slides the shift ring into
engages either the forward gear or the reverse gear. The engagement with the forward or reverse gear clutch. The
clutch contacts a clutch pack of several discs adjacent to drive hub on the output shaft transfers power from the se-
the forward and reverse gears. In Figure 2, the clutch is lected clutch to the output shaft.

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 TRANSMISSION-KBW SERIES 217

Disassembly
Input shafl
1. Remove the drain plug and drain the transmission oil.
Reverse 1 I 2. Position the transmission in a vise with soft jaws so the
input shaft is held by the vise jaws.
3. The output flange retaining nut is staked. Use a chisel
to cut away the staked portion so the nut will rotate.
4. Install a tool that will prevent rotation of the output
flange.
5. Unscrew the output flange retaining nut.
6. Remove the oil dipstick.
7. Make match marks on the shifter cover and the trans-
mission case so the shifter can be installed in its original
position.
/
Coupling flange
~everse
gear 8. Remove the shifter retaining bolts and remove the
shifter assembly.
9. Remove the transmission from the vise.
10. Using an 8 mrn Allen wrench, remove the shift bar re-
REMOVAL/INSTALLATION taining plug (68, Figure 3) in the rear of the case.
11. Install a 10 mm bolt into the end of the shift bar, then
The following procedure addresses units that are acces- pull the shift bar (58, Figure 3) out of the case while also
sible. In some cases, it may be necessary to remove the en- removing the shift fork (57).
gine and transmission as a unit before removing the 12. Remove the transmission mounting flange retaining
transmission from the engine. Refer to Chapter Six if en- bolts.
gine removal is necessary.
NOTE
1. If not previously disconnected, disconnect the remote
In Step 13, position the transmission so the
control cable from the transmission shift lever. transmission input shaft is up when remov-
2. If not previously disconnected, disconnect the drive ing the mountingflange so the transmission
coupling from the transmission drive flange. shafts will not fall out.
3. Remove the bolts that secure the transmission to the
engine bellhousing. 13. Tap on the mounting flange using a soft-faced ham-
mer to dislodge the flange. Position the transmission with
4. Remove the transmission from the engine.
the input shaft up, then remove the flange from the trans-
5. Reinstall the transmission by reversing the removal mission case.
procedure. Make sure to align the splines on the transmis-
14. Remove the output shaft assembly from the transmis-
sion input shaft and the drive disc during installation.
sion case and set aside for disassembly.
Tighten the transmission retaining bolts to the torque
specified in Table 2. 15. Remove the intermediate shaft assembly from the
transmission case and set aside for disassembly.
16. Remove the input shaft assembly from the transmis-
OVERHAUL sion case and set aside for disassembly.
17. Using a large screwdriver, pry out the oil seal in the
Refer to Figure 3. transmission case. Be careful not to damage the case or
the adjacent bearing race.
NOTE 18. Using a large screwdriver, pry out the oil seal in the
Overhaul of the KBW transmission requires transmission mounting flange. Be careful not to damage
special tools, which can be obtained from
Yanmar or fabricated. I f the special tools the case or the adjacent bearing race.
are not available, have a Yanmar dealership 19. If inspection indicates additional disassembly is nec-
overhaul the transmission. essary, refer to the following sections.

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 218 CHAPTER ELEVEN

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 TRANSMISSION-KBW SERIES 219

TRANSMISSION

1. Mounting flange 36. Thrust washer

2. Shim 37. Bearing
3. Output shaft 38. Seal
4. Key 39. Shim
5. Bearing 40. Bearing
6. Thrust washer 41. Input shaft
7. Bearing inner race 42. Bearing
8. Bearing 43. intermediate shaft
9. Spacer 44. Roller bearings
10. Forward gear 45. Idle gear
11. Belleville springs 46. O-ring
12. Retainer 47. Thrust washer
13. Snap ring 48. Shift lever
14. Friction plates 49. Seal
15. Steel plates 50. Shifter cover
16. Shims 51. Gasket
17. Pressure plate 52. Shift shaft
18. Balls (3) 53. Snap ring
19. Spring 54. Springs
20. Detent pins 55. Detent pin
21. Alignment pin 56. Bearings
22. Driving plate 57. Shift fork
23. Pressure plate 58. Shift bar
24. Return spring 59. Oil dipstick
25. Shift ring 60. Gasket
26. Shims 61. Case .
27. Spacer 62. O-ring
28. Inner bearing race 63. Seal
29. Bearing 64. Flange
30. Friction plates 65. Nut
31. Steel plates 66. Gasket
32. Snap ring 67. Drain plug
33. Retainer 68. Plug
34. Belleville washers 69. Dowel pin
35. Reverse gear

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 220 CHAPTER ELEVEN

Input shaft

1. Check the gear teeth for excessive wear, corrosion or

rust and mechanical damage. Check the teeth for galling,
chips, cracks, missing pieces, distortion or discoloration
from overheating. Replace the input shaft if the gears are
damaged.
2. Inspect the input shaft bearings and seal surfaces for
excessive wear, grooves, metal transfer and discoloration
from overheating. Use a press to remove damaged bear-
ings and to install new bearings.

NOTE
Shims (39, Figure 3) behind the outer bear-
ing race in the mounting flange determine
bearingpreload for the input shaft bearings.
Save the shims and reinstall them ifreusing
the original parts.

3. Inspect the input shaft bearing outer races in the trans-

mission case and mounting flange. If either race is dam-
aged or excessively worn, remove it using a suitable
puller.

Intermediate shaft

1. Remove and discard the O-ring (46, Figure 3) at the

end of the shaft.
2. Remove the thrust washer (47, Figure 3), idle gear
(45) and roller bearings (44).
3. Inspect the bearings, shaft and reverse idler gear inside
diameter for excessive wear, grooves, metal transfer and
discoloration from overheating. If necessary, replace the
2. Remove the spacer (9, Figure 3) and the bearing inner
shaft, gear and bearings.
race (7) from the output shaft.
4. Check the idler gear teeth for excessive wear, corro-
3. Hold the threaded end of the output shaft so the threads
sion or rust and mechanical damage. Check the teeth for
are protected.
galling, chips, cracks, missing pieces, distortion or discol-
4. Place the outer race onto the front bearing inner race.
oration from overheating. If necessary, replace the gear.
Using a suitable bearing driver, gently drive the inner
5. Reassemble the intermediate shaft. Install a new
bearing race away from the shaft collar approximately 10
O-ring on the shaft. Check that the idler rotates freely on
mm.
the shaft.
5. Place a pulling support plate (such as Yanmar special
tool 17099-09030) between the collar of the output shaft
Output shaft and bearing.
6. Use Yanmar special tool 17095-09070, or a suitable
NOTE equivalent tool, to press the bearing off the shaft, as shown
Exercise care when using the puller in Step in Figure 5.
1. Make sure the threads on the output shaft
are not damaged. 7. Remove the clutch friction plates (14, Figure 3) and
steel plates (15) from the forward gear (10).
1. Using a suitable puller, remove the output shaft from 8. Use Yanmar special tool 17095-09070, or an equiva-
the forward and reverse gear assemblies as shown in Fig- lent tool, to compress the Belleville springs (1 1, Figure 3)
ure 4. Do not mix the forward gear parts and reverse gear and remove the snap ring from the forward gear, as shown
parts. in Figure 6.

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 TRANSMISSION-KBW SERIES 221

2. Inspect the output shaft bearings and seal surfaces for

excessive wear, grooving, metal transfer and discolor-
ation from overheating.
3. Inspect the key and output shaft keyway for damage.

NOTE
Shims behind the outer bearing race in the
mounting flange determine bearing preload
for the output shaft bearings. Save the shims
and reinstall them ij- reusing the original
parts.

4. Inspect the input shaft bearing outer races in the trans-

mission case and mounting flange. If either race is dam-
aged or excessively worn, remove it using a suitable
puller.
5. Measure steel plate warpage as shown in Figure 7 and
compare the result with the specification in Table 3.
6. Measure the width of the steel plates tangs and com-
pare the result with the specification in Table 3.
7. Measure the width of the grooves in the pressure plates
and compare the result with the specification in Table 3.
The clearance between the tangs and the grooves should
be 0-0.6 mm (0-0.024 in.).
8. Measure the width of the friction plates and compare
with the specification in Table 3. Both sides of friction
plates have a 0.35 mm (0.014 in.) copper sintered layer.
Replace the friction plates when the copper layer is worn
more than 0.2 mrn (0.008 in.) on one side.
9. Measure four friction plates. The sum of wear of four
friction plates (forward or reverse) must not exceed 0.8
mm (0.031 in.). If wear exceeds 0.8 mm (0.031 in.), re-
9. Refer to Steps 7 and 8 and disassemble the clutch com- place all friction plates (forward or reverse).
ponents on the reverse gear. 10. Assemble each set of steel and friction plates. Com-
10. Lay the shift ring and pressure plate assembly flat. press the plates to remove steel plate warp. Measure the
11. Remove the pressure plate return springs (24, Figure assembled plates. The assembled thickness must exceed
3), then lift off the top pressure plate (17) and remove the 10.0 mm (0.394 in.).
steel balls (18). 11. Measure the backlash between the teeth on the fric-
12. Lift the shift ring (25, Figure 3) and driving plate (22) tion plates and the gear splines. The backlash must not ex-
off the bottom pressure plate and remove the three re- ceed 0.9 mm (0.035 in.).
maining balls. 12. Lay the shift ring and pressure plate assembly flat and
13. Slip the shift ring (25, Figure 3) off the driving plate remove the pressure plate return springs (24, Figure 3).
(22). Lift off the top pressure plate (17) and remove the steel
14. Remove the alignment pins (21, Figure 3) and detent balls (18).
pins (20) with springs (19) from the driving plate (22). 13. Lift the shift ring (25, Figure 3) and driving plate (22)
off the bottom pressure plate and remove the three re-
Inspection maining steel balls. Slip the shift ring (25) off the driving
plate (22), remove the alignment pins (2 1) and detent pins
1. Check the gear teeth for excessive wear, corrosion or (20) with the springs (19) from the driving plate (22).
rust and mechanical damage. Check the teeth for galling, 14. Inspect the pressure plate (I7 and 23, Figure 3) ball
chips, cracks, missing pieces, distortion or discoloration grooves for wear and renew the plate if wear is noticeable.
from overheating. Check the splines for excessive wear or 15. Measure the pressure plate thickness and compare the
damage. Replace the gears if damaged. result with the specification in Table 3.

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 222 CHAPTER ELEVEN

16. Measure the return spring end gap (Figure 8) and

compare the result with the specification in Table 3.
17. Check the driving plate ball grooves (Figure 9),
detent pin bores, detent pins (A) and keyway (B) for any
noticeable wear.
18. Measure the driving plate hub outer diameter (C, Fig-
ure 9) and compare it with the specification in Table 3.
19. Measure detent pin spring (D, Figure 9) free length
and compare it with the specification in Table 3.
20. Measure the plate spring retainer thickness (A, Fig-
ure 10) and compare the result with the specification in
Table 3. Measure the plate spring inside diameter (B) and
compare with the specification in Table 3. Measure the
plate spring shoulder diameter (C) and compare the result
with the specification in Table 3.
21. Measure the free width of the Belleville springs and
compare it with the specification in Table 3.
22. Inspect the shift ring pressure grooves (A, Figure 11)
and pin contact grooves (B) for any signs of excessive
wear. Measure the width of the circumferential groove (C)
and compare the result with the specification in Table 3.

Reassembly

1. Install the Belleville springs on the forward gear so the

concave sides face each other as shown in Figure 12. Po-
sition the retainer (12, Figure 3) over the Belleville
springs and slide the snap ring onto the spline of the for-
ward gear. Using Yanmar special tool 177095-09070,or a
suitable equivalent tool, compress the forward gear as-
sembly in a vise and engage the snap ring in the groove
around the forward gear splines. 4. Alternately install four friction plates (14, Figure 3)
2. Refer to Step 1 and assemble the reverse gear, and three steel plates (I 5) on the forward gear (I 0) splines
Belleville springs, retainer and snap ring. starting with a friction plate.
3. To determine the correct thickness of shims (16 and 26, 5. Refer to Step 4 and assemble the reverse gear, steel
Figure 3), install the inner bearing race and spacer in their plates and friction plates.
respective gears. Measure the depth (A, Figure 13) of the 6 . Using a suitable bearing driver, install the output shaft
bearing race from the end of the gear as shown in Figure front bearing onto the shaft. Be sure the bearing inner race
13. Install shims equal to the depth. contacts the collar on the end of the output shaft.

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 TRANSMISSION-KB W SERIES 223

11. Fit the key (4, Figure 3) into the slot on the output
shaft so the fillet side of the key faces the threaded end of
the output shaft.
12. Install the pressure plate, with the ball slots facing up,
Snap ring so the steel plate tangs fit into the three slots in the pres-
sure plate. Make sure the pawls of all three steel plates en-
gage the pressure plate.
Retainer 13. Install three steel balls into the slots on the pressure
plate. Install the drive plate onto the output shaft so the
side of the drive plate with concentric groove is facing the
forward gear assembly. Make sure all three steel balls.re-
main in place and the grooves of the pressure plate and the
drive plate match when the drive plate is installed.
14. Insert both locating pins into the drive plate so they
engage the torque limiter slots of the pressure plate.
Bearing 15. Install the shim, spacer and inner needle bearing race
on the ouput shaft using a suitable bearing driver.
16. Insert the detent pins and springs into the drive plate.
Install the shift ring over the drive plate so the three legs
Spacer with grooves are facing the forward gear and the detent
pins in the drive plate properly engage the pin slots of the
inside diameter of the shift ring.
17. Install three steel balls in the slots of the drive plate
and place the pressure plate over the drive plate. Make
sure the steel balls remain in position and the slots of both
plates match.
18. Install the pressure plate return springs between the
shift ring and the drive plate. Attach the spring ends to the
small holes inside the pressure plates as shown in Figure
14.
19. Install the reverse gear assembly so the tangs of all
three steel plates properly engage the slots in the pressure
plate.
20. Install the needle bearing and thrust washer with the
Return
spring copper sintered side of the washer facing the reverse gear.
21. Using a suitable bearing driver install the rear output
shaft inner race onto the output shaft. Make sure the race
bottoms against the thrust washer.
22. Check for smooth rotation of both the forward and re-
verse gears. Check for correct operation of the shift ring.

7. Install the thrust washer on the output shaft with the

sintered copper surface facing away from the bearing.
8. Using a suitable bearing driver, install the needle bear- Refer to Figure 3
ing inner race on the output shaft. Be sure the race bottoms
against the thrust washer. NOTE
Make alignment marks on the shift lever and
9. Install the needle bearing, spacer and shim on the out- shift shaft so the shift lever can be rein-
put shaft. stalled in its original position.

10. Install the forward gear assembly on the output shaft I. Loosen the clamp bolt and remove the shift lever.
and align the steel plate tangs. 2. Remove the shift cam.

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 224 CHAPTER ELEVEN

3. Push in the detent pin, remove the snap ring and re-
move the pin and springs.
4. Use a screwdriver or suitable tool to pry out the seal.
5. Inspect the shift ring. Cfieck the detent notch for exces-
sive wear that will allow poor clutch engagement.
6. Inspect the detent pin. Replace the pin if it is damaged
or excessively worn.
7. The shift ring contact surface of the shift fork is plated
with molybdenum. Renew the shift fork if the plating is
peeled or the shift fork base metal is exposed.
8. Reassemble the shifter by reversing the disassembly
procedure. Install the shift lever so the triangle mark on
the lever is out.

Reassembly

1. If removed, install the outer bearing races into the

transmission case and mounting flange.
2. Apply sealer to the periphery of the oil seals and install lever so it points up at a 45" angle toward the rear of the
them into the transmission case and mounting flange with transmission. Retighten the clamp bolt.
the open side to the inside. 14. Check the operation of the transmission. A click
3. Install the input shaft into the transmission case. should be audible when the gears are properly engaged. If
4. Install the intermediate shaft assembly into the trans- the gears do not engage, loosen the shifter retaining bolts
mission case. Position the thrust washer so the beveled and reposition the shifter. If improper engagement contin-
corner is toward the input shaft. Install a new O-ring on ues, remove the shifter and check for improper assembly
the intermediate shaft. Use a soft-faced hammer to tap the of the shifting components.
shaft into the case. 15. Install the O-ring on the output shaft.
5. While holding the input shaft out of the way, insert the 16. If not previously installed, install the oil seal into the
output shaft assembly into the transmission case. Move case.
the gears into mesh on the intermediate shaft, input shaft 17. Install the coupling flange onto the output shaft.
and output shaft while installing the output shaft. Tighten the retaining nut to the torque specified in Table
6. If the following components have been replaced, refer 2.
to the Bearing Adjustment section: input shaft, input shaft 18. Install the drain plug and oil dipstick.
bearings, output shaft, drive plate, spacer, thrust washers 19. Fill the transmission with the recommended trans-
and output shaft bearings. After adjusting the bearings, mission fluid. Refer to Chapter Three.
continue to reassemble the transmission as described in
the following steps. If the preceding components have not
been replaced, bearing adjustment is not necessary and BEARING ADJUSTMENT
the orginal shims may be reused. Proceed to the following
step. Perform the following procedure if the following com-
7. Install the input shaft oil seal. ponents have been replaced: input shaft, input shaft bear-
8. Coat the case mating surface with RTV sealer. ings, output shaft, drive plate, spacer, thrust washers and
9. Install the mounting flange and tighten bolts evenly. output shaft bearings. This procedure determines the
10. Place the shift ring in neutral position and install the thickness of shims that must be installed so the tapered
shift fork through the side opening. roller bearings properly contact the bearing outer races.
11. Insert the shift bar through the hole in the rear of the 1. Install the input shaft, intermediate shaft and output
case while installing the shift fork onto the shift bar. shafts as described in the Reassembly section.
12. Install the shift bar plug. Make sure the threaded end 2. Position the transmission case so the open end is up
of the shift bar is installed toward the rear of the case. and no pressure is being applied to the splined end of the
13. Install the shifter assembly. Align the marks made output shaft.
during disassembly and tighten the retaining bolts se- 3. Install the outer bearing races on the input and output
curely. Loosen the shift lever clamp bolt and position the shaft tapered bearings.

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 CHAPTER ELEVEN

Table 1 ENGlNErrRANSMlSSlONMODELS
Model

3GM
Transmission

KBWlOD
Transmission ratio
(forward gear)
2.14, 2.63 or 2.83
1
3HM KBWlOE 2.14 or 2.83
3HM35 KBWlOE 2.14 or 2.83

Table 2 TIGHTENING TORQUES

Fastener N*m ft.-lb.
Transmission mounting flange
Output shaft nut
Output flange nut
Drive disc

Table 3 CLUTCH SPECIFICATIONS

Steel plate warpage 1.4-1.7 mm (0.055-0.067 in.)
Steel plate tang width 11.8-12.0 mm (0.464-0.472 in.)
Pressure plate groove width 12.0-12.1 mm (0.472-0.476 in.)
Friction plate thickness 1.70-1.75 mm (0.067-0.069 in.)
Wear limit 1.5 mm (0.059 in.)
Pressure plate thickness 6.4-6.6 mm (0.252-0.260 in.)
Wear limit 6.3 mm (0.248 in.)
Return spring end gap 16.5-17.5 mm (0.650-0.690 in.)
Driving plate hub outer diameter-min. 58.8 mm (2.31 5 in.)
Detent pin spring free length 32.00-32.85 mm (1.260-1.293 in.)
Plate spring retainer thickness 2.72-2.80 mm (0.107-1.1 10 in.)
Wear limit 2.60 mm (0.102 in.)
Plate spring retainer inner diameter 65.9-66.0 mm (2.594-2.598 in.)
Wear limit 65.7 mm (2.587 in.)
Plate spring retainer shoulder diameter 57.56-57.606 mm (2.266-2.268 In.)
Wear limit 57.8 mm (2.276 in.)
Belleville spring width 6.15-6.35 mm (0.242-0.250 in.)
Min. width 6.0 mm (0.236 in.)
Shift ring circumferential groove width 6.0-6.1 mm (0.236-0.240 in.) ~

Wear limit 6.3 mm (0.248 in.)

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 Index

A block
Alarm buzzer . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 197 multicylinder. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 128-131
single-cylinder . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 95-97
head
B multicylinder. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 105-109
Battery . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 56.18 3.188 Cylinder
Bearing replacement. . . . . . . . . . . . . 18-23 head
Breather assembly single-cylinder . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 73-76
multicylinder . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 101.102
single-cylinder . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 71-72
D
Decompression mechanism
multicylinder . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 102
Camshaft single.cylinder . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 73
multicylinder . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 127-128 Diesel fundamentals
single-cylinder . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 93-95 engine
Charging system . . . . . . . . . . . . . 189-190 single-cylinder . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 68-70
troubleshooting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 31 Drive belts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 169-170
tests . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 31-32 Drive disc
Cooling system . . . . . . . . . . 52.56. 159-165 multicylinder . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 123
draining . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 64-66 single-cylinder. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 91
dnve belts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 169-170
hose replacement . . . . . . . . . . . . 168-169 E
maintenance Electrical system
freshwater . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 177-181 alarm buzzer . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 197
seawater . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 181 battery . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 183-188
Pump charging system . . . . . . . . . . . . . 189-190
freshwater. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 177 protection . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 188-189
seawater . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 170-177 senders. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 195-196
thermostat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 165-168 starting system. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 190-195
troubleshooting. . . . . . . . . . . . . 34.35. 36 switches . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 195
Crankshaft tachometer. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 197-198
multicylinder . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 123-126 warning lamps . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 197
single-cylinder . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 91-93 wiring diagrams . . . . . . . . . . . . . 231-234

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 INDEX

Engine stopping the . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 44

emergency stopping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 44 troubleshooting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 36
exhaust smoke tune-up . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 57-60
troubleshooting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35 Exhaust manifold
maintenance and lubrication . . . . . . . . 44-52 multicylinder . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 103-105
multicylinder . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 100- 101
breather assembly . . . . . . . . . . . 101.102
camshaft . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 127-128 F
crankshaft . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 123-126 Fasteners . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4-8
cylinder Fitting out . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 66-67
block . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 128-131 Flywheel
head . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 105. 109 multicylinder . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 122-123
decompression mechanism . . . . . . . . . 102 single-cylinder . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 89-91
drive disc . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 123 Freshwater
exhaust manifold . . . . . . . . . . . . 103-105 cooling system. maintenance . . . . . . 177-181
flywheel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 122-123 pump . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 177
lubrication system . . . . . . . . . . . 120-122 Fuel
main bearings . . . . . . . . . . . . . 126-127 injection
pistodconnecting rod assembly . . . . 113-118 fundamentals . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 138-142
push rods . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 113 injector . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 146-149
replacement parts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 100 lines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 151-152
rocker shaft assembly . . . . . . . . . 109-110 pump . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 149-150
serial number and code . . . . . . . . . 99-100 system bleeding . . . . . . . . . . . . 142-144
timing gearcase. . . . . . . . . . . . . 118-119 timing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 144-146
valve transfer pump . . . . . . . . . . . . . 150-151
cover . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 101 requirements . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 42
valves and seats . . . . . . . . . . . . 110-113 system. troubleshooting . . . . . . . . . . 32-34
noises
troubleshooting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35-36
single-cylinder G
General information
breather assembly . . . . . . . . . . . . . 71-72
bearing replacement . . . . . . . . . . . . 18-23
camshaft . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 93-95
fasteners. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4-8
crankshaft . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 91-93
cylinder lubricants . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8-9
block . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 95-97 mechanic's tips . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16-17
head . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 73-76 parts replacement . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4
decompression mechanism . . . . . . . . . . 73 RTV gasket sealant . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9
diesel fundamentals . . . . . . . . . . . . 68-70 seals . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23
drive disc . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 91 threadlock . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9
flywheel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 89-91 tools
lubrication system . . . . . . . . . . . . 86-89 basic hand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9-13
main bearings. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 93 precision measuring . . . . . . . . . . . 13-16
pistodconnecting rod assembly . . . . . 79-85 torque specifications . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4
push rods . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 79 Governor systems . . . . . . . . . . . . . 152-157
removal precautions . . . . . . . . . . . 70-71
replacement parts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 70 H
rocker shaft assembly . . . . . . . . . . . . 76 Hose replacement . . . . . . . . . . . . . 168-169
serial number and code . . . . . . . . . . . . 70
timing gearcase . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 85-86
valve L
cover . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 71 Lay-up . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 63-64
valves and seats . . . . . . . . . . . . . 77-79 cooling system draining . . . . . . . . . . 64-66

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 230 INDEX

Tune-up cover
battery . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 56 multicylinder . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 101
engine tune-up . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 57-60 single-cylinder . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 71

v
Valve
and seats W
multicylinder . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 110-113 Warning lamps. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 197
single-cylinder . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 77-79 Wiring diagrams . . . . . . . . . . . . . 231-234

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 WIRING DIAGRAMS 231

EARLY MODELS WITH LARGE

INSTRUMENT PANEL

Coolant temp.
warning i a r n p G Z G

Oil pressure
warning lamp @U$
Rubber seal
lamp
(Sail-drive)

Tachometer
Bi less than 6m.

.-Be WB

Diagram Key Color Code

B Black Alternator Coolant Oil Tachometer

*
~onnectora W White temp. pressure sender
R Red switch switch
Ground L Blue
4 Frame ground 0 Orange
W/B Whitelslack
WR WhiteIRed
+
+connection
WR WhitWBlue
WB Red/Black
No connection
LIB BluwBiack
LEI Blue/Red
YW YellowWhite

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 232 WIRING DIAGRAMS

EARLY MODELS WITH SMALL

INSTRUMENT PANEL (NO TACHOMETER)

Push
button Key

'Zmy
Coolant temp.
warning lamp

Oil pmaaum
w r n l
@Ug
n g l a m p ~ ~ 1
~ [ J

B-D:
Diegram Key Color Code
B Black
W White
R Red Rubbar seal Alhmaor Coolant Oil Tmp.
8 Gmund L Blua switch (for temp. prwaura ae*
4 Framegmund 0 Orange
wm Whlte/Black
Salldrlve) switch ewltch

wm WhitalRed
W R WhltelB1ue
No connection WB Red~Black
UB BldBlack
LIR BludRed
YMT Yellow/White

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 WIRING DIAGRAMS 233

LATE MODELS WITH LARGE

INSTRUMENT PANEL

Coolant temp.
warning lamp a$
Oil pressure
warning lamp
Rubber seal
lamp
(Sail-drive)

Tachometer
81 less than 6m.

Buzzer Bg
Diagram Key Color Code
B Black Alternator Coolant Oil Tachometer
Connectors W White temp. pressure sender
R Red switch switch
5
- Ground L Blue
F Frame ground 0 Orange
WB Whitelslack -
WIR WhitelRed
+connection
+ W/L Whltelelue
WB RedJBlack
No connectlon
L/B BlueiBlack
LIR BlueIRed
YMI YellowMlhite

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 234 WIRING DIAGRAMS

LATE MODELS WITH SMALL INSTRUMENT PANEL

(NO TACHOMETER)

v8
Push
Key

. . ...
ss

Coolant temp.
warning lamp m g
Oil preaaum
warning lamp @Ug
connector

less than 6m.

g so
Diagram Key Color Code
B Black
Econnecto" W White
R Red
4 Ground L Blue
0 Orange Coolant Oil
WIB Whitelslack temp. pmssum
WIR WhltelRed witch switch
w/L WhitelBlue
No connection WB RedlBlack
LIB BludBlack
VR BldRed
Y/w YellowMlhlte

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