Wi A Beading How to use COLOR in jewelry designIntroduction Color is an essential element of jewelry design, but many beaders and jewelry designers struggle to find color combinations that work. Choosing the right hues and proportions can be intimidating, but with a little color knowledge Beading Inspiration: How to use COLOR in jewelry design will show you the basics of working with color and teach you to id an eye for inspiration, it becomes very easy. find the right hues for every project by using four proven sources of inspiration: the color wheel, nature, fabric, and decorative art Color trends change over time, but using a few basic nakes it easy to find colors that work together suidelir for harmony or contrast. A rudimentary understanding of color relationships is easy to achieve with a basic color wheel. You may already know some of the basics: red, yellow, and blue are primary colors; combined they create secondary colors (red + yellow orange, yellow + blue = green, and ‘olet). Mixing these six colors creates tertiary blue + red colors, like red orange or indigo (blue violet). We've organized this book on a spectrum to show a range of color possibilities using every hue in the rainbow. In addition tw the traditional colors of the rainbow, we've also created projects featuring colors that don’t appear on the typical spectrum: brown, black and white, and metallics. Color itself can be wonderful inspiration, and when you understand the relationship between colors, the color wheel becomes a perfect tool for making beautiful jewelry. Inspiration and ideas abound in the world around you, Look outside and you'll see that nature has color combinations that range from neutral to shocking, and these combinations are a great source for beading ideas. Fabric is another excellent source of inspiration. Coordinating beads to fabric is a natural for anyone who has matched a necklace to an outfit. Fabric designers know their colors, and finding a fabric that strikes your fancy can make it easy to select bead colors to ‘match your taste, For more winning color combinations, look around your home, or in stores and magazines for decorative ant ms. The translucent blues of a glass vase or the mottled golds of a decorative plate may be the perfect palette for creating a piece of jewelry you'll ove to wear. Creating beautiful, colorful jewelry is easy. All you need, is the right inspiration and a few basic techniques. To get started, look at our inspiration guide on page 6 for great color ideas. I you're new to beading, learn the basics on page 8. Then turn the page for a colorful range of beautiful jewelry projects that will teach you to make color work for you.Blue Green Peacock feathers play a starring role 52 in anecklace and earrings duo Blue Anecklace and earrings with 55 faceted crystals recall the light-infused palette of a van Gogh painting Shades of blue merge in two 58s luscious multistrand necklaces A versatile necklace doubles as 61 a chain belt Indigo Pairing dark and light shades 64 creates a dramatic necklace and earrings set Amacramé necklace interspersed GG with silver beads supports an opal pendant Violet Enhance the regal hues of amethyst GS gemstones with crystal accents Add texture to a multistrand bracelet 7O with a mix of faceted and smooth beads Weave shell and gemstone beads “a together for a vibrant necklace, bracelet, and earrings set Brown A blend of subtle hues captures the WG soft tones of a favorite shell in a multistrand necklace Mix rich shades of browns and golds #7 in a two-strand necklace Combine the earthy colors of autumn BO in a classic necklace and earrings duo Metallic Bronze Blend warm shades of gold with s3 deeper tones of bronze and orange for a lustrous jewelry set Metallic Gold Gold combines with claretredto BG yield an elegant pair of earrings Metallic Silver Natural and metallic materials 83s come together in this sophisticated necklace, bracelet, and earrings set Black and white Whimsical charms accent a 9:2 multistrand bracelet Black-and-white beads and 94 gunmetal chain form a necklace and bracelet ensemble——l i it a,eelrhClCd Contents Inspiration 6 Orange Yellow Make sweet-as-candy necklaces, 224) a bracelet, and earrings with vibrant Basics 8 Lucite beads . Link delicate crystal charms with $2 Projects jump rings for a flowery cuff and Red earrings Make dazzling rings using wire 10 wraps to connect faceted crystals. Yellow Mey. 5; 12 Tiny drop beads build a wardrobe SO Beads intertwine gracefully in a of playful earrings five-strand necklace String an exuberant multistrand 32 Red Orange necklace in primary colors An array of fiery crystals dangles 14 from tiers of chain Yellow Green Link mother-of pearl beads in a 35 Carnelian gemstones take center 17 necklace with a custom clasp stage in a necklace, bracelet, and / earrings trio Playful shapes and bright colors 38 combine for fun and flirty jewelry Orange Use a classic wire-wrapping 20 aneer eee bess i ee technique to make vibrant earrings Pepa eune ce a aera Lae earrings ensemble with tourmaline Create two bracelets using one 22 nuggets and chips Eo erence per ats Soothing colors combine for a lovely b&b necklace, bracelet, and earrings set ~ Green Blue String a two-strand gemstone 48 necklace with a dangling centerpiece Combine fringed yarn and glass 50 beads to make a lively necklace and hair accessoryFABRIC If you love the colors in a piece of fabric, chances are you'll love the way those colors Pera come R CMa ecies Pee ete uMue LR Colige leas ee ce ea coh tceicn kates in line with what is in fabric. Although this tip can be ignored over time, it provides a good starting point for your designs. Second, experiment with combining bead colors in a range of values that mimic the lighter or darker hues found throughout a fabric’s design. Combining values. adds interest to your work. Third, no matter how ool CR TR ete ole aU NMC oil 10] 9 Vinh o]= mel ger-1-te Kove) ole MLM Ke AIOE NARs MeMUte Ruri eN com and most successful Fennell with the colors in an item n't stop there. Always.Make dazzling rings using wire wraps to connect faceted crystals by Cheryl Phelan Two shades of red, one dark and one light, create a rich background for a lone accent of yellow or violet — colors taken from a swatch of quilting fabric. Notice how the accent colors add life to the reds, even when used in small quantitie: inspiration fabric 10. BEADING INSPIRATION But color is not the only element this fabric inspires. To capture the mosaic-like surface of the fabric, choose sparkling, faceted briolettes. ‘one ring ‘= 6mm round Swarovski crystal © 6-8 11 x 5mm briolettes #6 4mm round Swarovski crystals * 20 in. (51cm) 22-gauge sterting silver wire * 8 in, (20cm) 28-gauge craft wire, silver + beading cord, .006 *G-S Hypo cement + twisted-wire needles * chainnose pliers * fiatnose pliers (optional) * diagonal wire cutters * ring mandrel or other ring-sized cylinder * metal fle Be conte wire hancting BD tence protennione! eee Using a twisted-wire needle and 8 in. (20cm) of beading cord, pick up six 4mm round crystals and sew through them again in the same direction, leaving a 3-in, (7.6cm) tail FY Tie the tail and working thread together with a square knot (see Basics, p. 8), ‘and glue the knot. Sew through the next bead in the ring and pull the knot into the bead. Tie the working cord /around the cord between beads with a half-hitch knot (Basics), and sew through the next bead. Repeat twice, then trim the cord, Repeat with the cord's tall end.String six to eight Bring the long wire over Bring the wire up to the Wrap the wire around the briolattes on an 8: the briolette to the right front through the center circle again. piece of 28-gauge wire. Bend circle, and of the the beads into a circle, leaving down & \e brilettes Repeat steps 5-7 with each briolette to lock ther all in piace. Hold the briolettes with your a3:in. tall on one end. Twist the long wire and the tal together to hold the beads in place. rrondeminant hand as you rap, and avoid wrapping tight enough to break a bead. ~ \ "Tim the wires and tuck Turn the brioletes ‘Center a 6mm round To assemble the ernem down between the over. Use the back of crystal on the 22. flower, string bxoletes with your pliers. the cluster as the top surface gauge wire. Use chainnose the 4mm crystals and the pliers to bend the wire as briolettes onto the wire end: shown in the photo, Don't and slide them against the bend the wire against the nm crystal. Separate the Crystal or the crystal may wires behind the briolettes. Hold the flower Working with one ‘Wrap one wire around the band three to four times, in place on a ring fend at a time, coil Use flatnose pliers to hold the band wires together as mandrel or other cylinder. the wire under the flower with you wrap. Trim the wire on the inside of the band, pinch the end Make sure the band is slightly two or more wraps, These Against the band with piers, and file the end. Repeat on the larger than the diameter of support the briolette petals. _ other side. your finger. Wrap each end of Make an additional wrap or the wire around the mandrel two if needed, then remove. Slide the ring back on the mandrel to reshape the wo times, the ring from the mandrel oandsubstantial enough to support a good-sized Regsgsn™ Beads intertwine gracefully in a five-strand necklace by Diane Jolie inspiration decorative art necklace 17 in. (430m) * focal bead (Eclectica, 262-641-0910) #1203 x 4mm drops, red + 2.4mm round beads + 5mm fre polished beads Mixing reds can be tricky, but ee 120 purple g g mix of colors (ee using the striking mix of color ee found in this dramatic glass vase for ore ane one 29 size 11°, old inspiration makes it easy. In addition medium cones toagieeiasp to reds, which can easily overpower * flexible beading wie, 4 most other colors, try using muted + 104in, @5em) 20-gauge purples —red’s neighbor on the color MME agg wheel — to temper its force. Sparks See of gold from interspersed seed beads __* erimping pliers (optona) + diagonal wire cutters brighten the overall effect.Determine the finished length of your necklace (this one is 17 in./43em), add 6 in. (15cm), and cut five pieces of flexible beading wire to that length. Center the focal bead on one piece of wire, String 6° seed beads on each end Until you are 1 in. (2.5em) short of the desired length. Make sure the total number of 6°s is divisible by four. String an 11°, a crimp bead, and an 11" on each end, Tape the ends. Make a wrapped loop (see Basics, p. 8) on one end of a 5-in. (13cm) piece of 20-gauge wire. Remove the tape from one end and string the wrapped loop. Go back through the 11°, the crimp bead, the 11°, and three 6"s. Crimp the crimp bead (Basics) and trim the tail ‘To start the second strand, string ‘an 11°, a crimp bead, and an 11° Go through the wrapped loop made in step 3 and back through the 112, the crimp bead, and the 11°. Crimp the crimp bead and trim the tai Go through the first 6” on the Hinished strand. String an 11°, a purple fire-polished bead, a drop bead, a purple bead, and an 11°. Skip three On the finished strand and go through the fourth 6. Repeat this pattern until you reach {the focal bead. Then go through the focal bead and continue to the other end. As you approach the end of this and subsequent strands, adjust your final bead count so you always exit the last 6°. String an 11°, a crimp bead, and an 11*, Tape the end, ‘Start the third strand as in step 5. Then string one 11° and a red fire- polished bead. Go through the second 6° on the first strand. String a red, an 11%, a drop, an 11°, and a red. Skip three 6's on the finished strand and go through the fourth 6° as before. Work in this pattern and end as in step 6. editor’s tip Start the fifth strand as in step 5. String a red, an 11°, a drop, an 11, and a red. Go through the fourth 6*. String the pattern again, skip three 6s on the finished strand, and go through the fourth 6° as before. Work in this pattern and end as in step 6. BA Gap Mate 2 rrepecl agp ons ee of a 5h. ploca 0, gaige wna: Ur fone strand of the necklace at a time, untape the ends, string the wrapped loop, and go back through the 11°, the crimp bead, the 11° and the last few beads on the strand. Repeat with all the other strands, snug up the beads, and crimp the crimp beads. ey ‘Start the fourth strand as in step 5. /String two 11°s, a purple, and an 11°. Go through the third 6°. String an 11°, a purple, a drop, a purple, and an 11°. Skip three 6's on the finished strand and go through the fourth 6" as before. Work in this pattern and end as in step 6. a consist in each strand before re 1 String a cone on the wire at one ‘end of the strands and pull the strands into the cone. String a round bead on the wire and make the first half of a wrapped loop. Slide the clasp into the loop, then finish the wraps. Repeat at the other end of the necklace, HOW TO USE COLOR IN JEWELRY DESIGN 13An array of fiery crystals dangles from tiers of chain by Anna Elizabeth Draeger 44 BEADING INSPIRATIONA crystal necklace in a striking palette of red-to- gold crystals evokes the hot colors of autumn mums. By centering the darkest red and flanking it with progressively lighter shades of red, orange, . This gradient effect is intensified by its repetition on mless and gold, the colors blend se: three strands. The earrings, long and di matic, capture the same fiery appeal. e@e¢ necklace * String a crystal ona head pin. Make a plain loop (see Basics, p. 8) above the crystal. Repeat with all the remaining crystals. Open a jump ring (Basics) and attach the clasp to a 1-in. chain. Close the jump ring, (Cut the chain into pieces as follows: three 1 in. (2.5em), four 314 in. (8.9cm), one 6 in. (15em), one 7 in. (18cm), one 8 in. (20cm), inspirationnature 2 af } Open a jump ring and ‘attach the other end of the 1-in. chain to two of the 3%-in. chains. materials both projects ‘ chainnose pliers, ‘+ roundnose pliers ‘= diagonal wire cutters necklace 17 in. (48cm) * Swarovski crystals 5 5mm bicones, siam 22.4mm rounds, light siam 20 4mm bicones, hyacinth. 20 4mm bicones, fire opal 28 4mm bicones, sun * lobster claw clasp ‘© 45 in. (1.1m) 3.6mm long-and-short diamond ‘chain (riogrance.com) #95 1 in. (2.5cm) 24-gauge head pins, +6 6mm jump rings. earrings. * Swarovski crystals, 12 each of the following: ‘5mm bicones, siam 4mm round, light siam ‘4mm bicones, hyacinth 4mm bicones, fire opal ‘4mm bicones, sun #5 in. (14cm) 2mm cable chain * 60 1 in. (2.5cm) 24-gauge head pins ‘© 2.3mm jump ring * pair post earring findings with loop Open a jump ring and connect the two 3% in. [chains to the 6-in., 7-in., and 8-in. chains. Connect the chains to finish the other end of the necklace the same way as the first, being careful not to cross the chains. Then attach another 1-in. chain to the last jump ring “To attach the dangles, find the two large center links on the longest chain, Attach two siam-colored dangles to each link. Working from the center toward one end, attach two dangles to each large link in the following color combinations: siam and light siam, two light siam, two light siam, two hyacinth, two hyacinth, hyacinth and fire opal, two fire opal, two fire opal, two sun, two sun. To finish this end, attach one sun dangle to each of the next five large links. Repeat on the other side of the center dangles. HOW TO USE COLORIN JEWELR[7 isi220 2 sam dangle to the center age lnk ofthe mide chain. Working fom the center toward one end, add one dangle per large lnk as follows: siam, light siam, light siam, hyacinth, hyacinth, fre opal, fire opal, sun, sun. Repeat on the other side of the center dangle GB hiech a sam dante tothe center large ink ofthe shortest chain. Working rom the center toward one end, add one dangle per large link as follows: siam, light siam, light siam, hyacinth, fire opal, sun. Repeat on other side of the center dangle. ‘To embellish the 1-in. carrings «Make danges asin step 1 of the ! chain at the back of the necklace. Cut a 1-in, (2.5em) and a 1é-in. c necklace, attach three siam | (8.8m) piece of chain, Use jump rings to attach the i dangles to the end link. Then | 1in. chain to the ball of the earring finding and the : attach the remaining colors | 11/-in, chain to the ear nut. 4 to subsequent links, working from the darkest to lightest | Dich three sia-colored dangles to the enc t and adding two of each color link of the 1¥%-in, chain. Then work as follows, ‘on each side of each link attaching one dangle of each pair to each side € of each chain link: two light siam, light siam and. hyacinth, two hyacinth, two fire opal, fire opal and ‘sun, two sun. Repeat on the 1-in, chain. Make a second earring to match the first 16 BEADING INSPIRATIONse a a w 2 Carnelian gemstones take center stage in a necklace, bracelet, and earrings trio by Linda Augsburg A repeating pattorn of and orystals adds fan easy jewelry With the red-orange of carnelian beads as a starting point, you may first have considered using its complement, blue green, for a high-contrast color scheme. Equally bold, but definitely unexpected, is a color wheel relationship called a tertiary basic triad — tertia y because each color is a combination of primary and secondary colors, and a basic triad because red-orange, blue-violet, and yellow-green are evenly spaced on the color wheel. inspiration color wheelnecklace * Determine the finished lenath of your necklace, (this one is 17 inJ43cm), add 6 in. (15cm), and cut a piece of beading wire to that length. \Center the teardrop pendant on the wire. (On one end, string a gold-filed 'bead, a crimp bead, a gold-flled bead, and a lobster claw clasp. String the same sequence on the other end, substituting a soldered jump ring for the clasp. Check the fit, and add or remove ‘beads from each end if necessary. Crimp the crimp beads (see Basics, p. 8) and trim the excess wire earrings * Cut a 10-in, (25cm) piece of beading wire. String a spacer, an 8mm carnelian, a spacer, a 6mm crystal, a ‘spacer, an &mm, a spacer, a 4mm crystal, ‘a spacer, an 8mm, a spacer, a mm, a spacer, an 8mm, and a spacer. Center these beads on the wire. 18 BEADING INSP;RATION 2mm, a 3mm, and a 2mm. ‘On each side of the pendant, string a 2mm carnelian, a 4mm crystal, a 2mm, a 'spacer, an &mm carnelian, a spacer, a 2mm, a 6mm crystal, a 2mm, a spacer, an 8mm, and a spacer. Repeat this pattern on each end until the necklace is 1 in. (2.5em) short of the desired length : POQDIIASIPS *. 8 th te a < al sp th de JOn each end, string a mm crystal, three 2mm carnelians, a 3mm, three String an 8mm and a crimp bead lover both ends. Bring both ends around the earring’s loop and back through the last beads strung. Crimp the crimp bead and trim the excess wire. Make a second earring to match the first. gsscKNbracelet * Determine the finished length of your bracelet, (this one is 8 in/20cm), add 5 in. (13cm), and cut three pieces of beading wire to that length. Tape one end of each wire. (On the bottom strand, string a spacer, an 8mm carnelian, a spacer, ‘6mm crystal, a spacer, an mm, a spacer, and a 4mm crystal. Repeat until the strand is 1 in, (2.5cm) short of the | desired length. Tape the end. (On the top strand, string a spacer, ‘an 8mm, a spacer, a 4mm, a spacer, ‘an 8mm, a spacer, and a 6mm. Repeat Until the strand is 1 in. (2.5cm) short of the desired length. Tape the end, (On the middle strand, sting a spacer, a dmm, a spacer, an mm, a spacer, a mm, a spacer, and an 8mm, Repeat until the strand is 1 in. @.5emn) short of the desired length. Tape the end Remove the tape on the middle strand. String a crimp bead, a gold- filled bead, and the center loop on the clasp to each respective end. Repeat with the bottom and top strands. Close the clasp to allow some ease on each strand, Check the fit, and add or remove beads if necessary. Crimp the crimp beads and trim the excess wire. materials necklace 17 in. (43cm) ‘© 18 x 25mm teardrop pendant + 22 8mm round camelian beads + 10 6mm round crystals, tanzanite + 12.4mm round crystals, olivine AB +44 2mm round carnelian beads +44 4mm vermeil daisy spacers ‘+ 42.5mm round golc-filed beads + lobster claw clasp and soldered jump ring ‘flexible beading wire, .012 * crimp beads * chainnose or crimping pliers * diagonal wire cutters earrings #10 8mm round camelian beads +4 6mm round crystals, tanzanite ‘+ 2.4mm round crystals, olivine AB ‘+12.3mm bicone crystals, olivine AB ‘+ 28 2mm round carnelian beads +16 4mm vermell daisy spacers * flexible beading wire, 12 ++ 2crimp beads * pair of earring findings * chainnose or crimping pliers * diagonal wire cutters bracelet 8 in. (20cm) + 16-in. (410m) strand or 35 8mm round carnelian beads +17 6mm round crystals, tanzanite +17 4mm crystals, olvine AB + 72.4mm vermeil daisy spacers + 6.2.5mm round gold-filed beads + flexible beading wire, .012 #6 crimp beads + three-strand box clasp ‘+ chainnase or crimping pliers ‘diagonal wire cutters TO USE COLOR IN JEWELRY DESIGN 19Use a classic wire-wrapping \)\ technique to make vibrant earrings by Debbie Nishihara When you take your cue from colors sitting next . to each other on the color wheel, your reward \ “ will be jewelry in gradations of harmonious 7 e colors. Here, hot-colored crystals in oranges and r ia yellows surround a golden bicone. The solar effect ; is intensified by using larger crystals to create a luminous ring around the edge. x earrings 4 10 4mm, fre.op old technique used 44mm, hyac dimensional boaded flowers. By changing the bond counts, a dak can be elongated into © pair of earring wires } : an oval, much like the: + Tin traditional shape of @ * diagonal wire cutters E ¢ ¢ ¢ — ) CikaZA (Siem) lenath ofwie: Make Zp Holcng your SHG Neon ine wT Aes a small loop at one end, leaving a at the bottom Gin. (1Sem) tl Wrap the wires long end) beads, a Smm bicone (the workina wire) around the tall so the 11's onthe tal, These are the only beads loop andthe wraps equal Tin. 26cm. _ strung on the tal enc Do not cut the wire.Tt Curve the working wire around the crystal. Wrap it around the tail directly above the top two 11°s, with the wrap going over the tail String ten 11%s, curve the wire /around the crystal, and wrap it around the tail close to the beads. Continue adding rows of 11°s, increasing the count by one or more beads in each row as necessary, until there are four rows ‘on each side of the crystal. Straighten the tail after every wrap. Wrap the working wire around the oop end of the tail close to the beads, and cut the working wire about YAin, (6mm) from the last wrap. Press the cut end against the beads. Sting fre opalbicane over he ff [closed loop. Use chainnose a aa loop $0 the opening faces front 1 back. Fold the straight end of the tail to the back of the work and cut it. ‘Open the loop above the bicone by inserting a T-pin. ‘Open the loop on an earring wire (see Basics, p. 8) and attach the earring. Make a second earring to match the first. For the outer row, string six 11°s, !a 3mm bicone, three 11"s, a 3mm bicone, an 11", a 3mm bicone, a 4mm. hyacinth bicone, two 4mm fire opal bicones, and a 4mm sun bicone. Wrap the working wire around the tail as before. ‘Then string this sequence in reverse to finish the other side. “Turn your work so the loop is at the top. Pinch the loop closed tightly with chainnose pliers. inspiration color wheel HOWTO USE COLOR IN JEWELRY DESIGN. 24inspiration | decorative art Create two bracelets using one color palette in different proportions by Cathy Jakicic B forceful when teamed up with black, but adding other colors ise of its high intensity, bright orange is at its most to the mix tones down the drar This quilt, one of the remarkable pieces from the Gee’s Bend collection, inspired this pairing of red-orange carnelian stones with melon and amber sced beads and peach pearls. Don’t hesitate to add green — take the plunge, and you'll achieve an unusual and energetic color scheme. The Gee's Bend quilt photo Is from the collection of the Tinwood Alliance. Photo by Steve Pitkin.ors two-strand bracelet * Determine the finished length of your bracelet | (this one is 7 in,/18cm), add 5 in. (13cm), ‘and cut two pieces of beading wire to that length. On one strand, string a crimp bead, an 8° seed bead, and the clasp. Go back through the beads and tighten the wire. Crimp the crimp bead (see Basics, p.8) and trim the excess wire. Remove the tape from the first strand and string a crimp bead, an 8°, and a soldered jump ring. Go back through the beads and tighten the wire. Check the fit, and add or remove beads if necessary. Crimp the crimp bead. 5 ‘Wrap the second strand around the first. Add or remove beads from the second strand if necessary. Remove the tape from the second strand and string a crimp bead, an ‘and the jump ring. Go back through the beads and tighten the wire. Crimp the crimp bead and trim the excess wire. String a top-drilled rectangle, a 6° a pearl, a6", a cylinder bead, 6°, a pearl, and a 6°. Repeat the pattern until the bracelet is the desired length. Tape the end, materials two-strand bracelet 7 in. (18cm) +5-7 10x 8mm faceted top-crilled rectangle carnelian beads + 10-15 5-6mm potato-shaped pearls, peach ‘+ 30-40 size 6° seed beads, matte black + 24-28 size 8” seed beads, amber + 2g Japanese cylinder beads, mint green ‘lobster claw clasp * flexible beading #4 crimp beads . 014 or 015 ‘= 6mm soldered jump ring * chainnose pliers + diagonal wire cutters ‘= crimping pliers (optional) 1 Tmemory wire bracelet + Separate four coils of memory wire from the stack of coils Instead of cutting the wire, hold it with chainnose ‘Attach the remaining wire to the clasp as in step 1. String six cylinder beads, an 8, a 6%, and an 8° on the wire. Repeat the pattern until the bracelet is the desired length, Tape the end. memory wire bracelet 4 coils ‘© 10 x 8mm faceted rectangle ‘carnelian pendant ‘© 2.8:in, (20cm) strands petal-shaped beads, black ‘+ 20-24 5-6mm potato-shaped pearls, peach) © 10-12 6mm faceted round beads, orange ‘1g size 8" seed beads, melon = memory wire, bracelet diameter ‘= chainnose pliers ‘ roundnose pliers = heavy-duty wire cutters (optional) Using roundnose pliers, make a small loop on one end of the memory wire. pliers and bend it back and forth at one place until the vwite breaks. Don't use jewelry-weight wire cutters on memory wire; the wire will ruin the blades. String eight petal-shaped beads, a pearl, an 8° seed bead, a faceted round, an 8°, and a pearl. Repeat the pattern until you are 2 in. (Som) from the end of the memory wire. ‘To finish the bracelet, string eight petal-shaped beads, a pearl, the pendant, a pearl, and a petal-shaped bead. Make sure there are no spaces between beads. Make a small loop at the end of the wire. ORIN JEWELRY DESIGN 23 (Ow TO USEi | | ee q Make sweet-as-candy necklaces, a bracelet, and earrings with vibrant Lucite beads by Naomi Fujimoto 2 inspiration fabric BEADING INSPIRATION The colors of this retro fabric are as fun and playful as its cartoonlike graphics; content and color are well matched. The jewelry follows suit: brightly colored Lucite beads create casual pieces perfect for spring and summer soirees. In each piece, the predomi tly red-orange-yellow spectrum has a complementary color thrown in: purple to complement yellow, and green for red. Whenever you want to add a splash of contrast to a palette with a dominant color scheme, choose its complement.One pre-packaged assortment of Lucite contained enough beads in a variety of styles and colors to make the necklaces, bracelet, and earrings shown here. hoop-pendant necklace * Determine the finished length of your necklace (this one is 1614 in./41.9em), add 6 in, (15cm), and cut a piece of beading wire to that length. Open a 9-10mm jump ring (see Basics, p. 8) String the hoop bead and close the jump ring. Center the pendant and an 11" seed bead on the wire. ,On each end of the beading wire, string a pattern of Lucite beads alternating with crystals. Repeat until the necklace is 1 in. (2.5cm) short of the desired length. ‘On one end, string a 3mm round spacer, a crimp bead, a spacer, and the clasp. Go back through the beads just strung plus one more and tighten the wire. Repeat at the other end, substituting a jump ring for the clasp. Check the fit, and add or remove an equal number ‘of beads from each end if necessary. Crimp the crimp beads (Basics) and trim the excess wire. materials hoop-pendant necklace 416% in. (41.9cm) * Lucite beads (The Beadin’ Path, 877-922-9287, beadinpath.com) 27mm hoop beads 6-10 16mm round beads 6-10 14mm round beads 8-12 10mm round beads, in 2 colors or finishes + 22-84 6mm round crystals, in 2 colors * size 11° seed bead * lobster claw clasp with soldered jump ring flexible beading wire, 014 0.015 + 43mm round spacers + 910mm finside diameter) 16-gauge jump ring + 2crimp beads + chainnose pliers ‘+ roundnose pliers, * crimping pliers (optional) + diagonal wire cutters cherry-and-citrus necklace 15/2 in. (39.4cm) * Lucite beads (The Beadin’ Path) 7-9 19 x 23mm cherry beads 4-6 14mm round beads 4-6 12x 16mm oval beads 14-20 10mm round beads, in 2 colors or finishes + 14-18 6mm round crystals, in 2 colors lobster claw clasp with soldered jump ring flexible beading wire, 014 or 015 + 43mm round spacers, '* 2.crimp beads + chainnose or crimping pliers + diagonal wire cutters editor’s tip Mee ete oaecct See ea) ads bracelet 7 in. (18cm) ‘Lucite beads (The Beadin’ Path) 5-8 16mm round beads 10-15 14mm round beads, in2 colors 3-6 12x 16mm oval beads 5-10 10mm round beads, in 2.colors 5-10 8x 14mm fruit beads + 6-8 8mm round crystals + 6-8 6mm round crystals * lobster claw clasp with 45mm jump ring = 8-10 in, (20-25cm) cable chain, 4mm links ++ 35-55 114-in. (3.8m) 20- gauge head pins + 5-10 4mm 18-gauge jump rings * chainnose pliers, * roundnose pliers * diagonal wire cutters earrings * Lucite beads (The Beadin’ Path) 227mm hoop beads 2 10mm round beads + 26mm round crystals + 41¥6:in, head pins or 6 in. (15cm) 22-gauge sterling silver wire, hall-hard 2.9-10mm (inside diameter) 16-gauge jump rings * pair of earing wires + chainnose pliers + roundnose pliers * diagonal wire cutters HOW TO USE COLOR IN JEWELRY DESIGN 25a. cherry-and-citrus necklace « Determine the finished length of your necklace (this one is 1814 in./ 39.4em), add 6 in. (15cm), and cut a piece of beading wire to that length. Center a cherry bead between two crystals on the wire, % (On each end, string a 10mm matte bead, a 14mm, a 10mm glossy, a crystal, a cherry, and a crystal. (Use crystals in a different color from those instep 1) On each end, string a 10mm matte, ‘an oval, a 10mm glossy, a crystal, a cherry, and a crystal. (String the same color crystals as in step 1.) Repeat steps 2 and 3 on each end until the neckiace is 1 in, 2.5em) short of the desired length, Finish as in step 3 of the hoop-pendant necklace. Tl? 6.0 eee$3 String each Lucite bead and crystal on a head pin. Make a plain lop Basics) above each bead. String each fruit bead on a jump ring. Make a total of 40-65 dangles. (The size ofthe chain links and the bracelet length USE COLOR IN JEWELRY DESIGN. 53‘Wrap the tail of the top loop around the stem of the bottom loop, and the tail of the bottom around the stem of the top. Trim the excess wire. }On each end, string an alternating pattern of five pearis and five 11%s, followed by a 4mm bicone. Then string an alternating pattern of seven pearls and seven 11°s and a 4mm bicone. Continue the pattem, increasing to nine pearls and 11°s and a 4mm bicone, then to eleven Pearls, and so on, until the necklace is 1 in. @.50m) short of the desired length. End with an 11° fe ‘Close the bead tip’s loop around the bottom loop. Determine the finished length lof your necklace. (This one is 15 in./38cm,) Add 6 in. (15cm) and cut a piece of flexible beading wire to that length. Open a Smm jump ring (Basics) and connect it to the pendant’s top loop. Close the jump ring. Center an 11° and the pendant on the wire. On each end, string a 4mm bicone and an 11° }On one end, string a crimp bead, an 11, and a jump ring with half of the clasp. Go back through the last beads strung. Repeat on the other end. Tighten the wires, check the fit, and add or remove an equal number of beads from each end if necessary. Crimp the crimp beads (Basics) and trim the excess wire, 34 BEADING INSPIRATON earrings * Follow steps 1-5 of the necklace. Close the bead tip’s loop around the bottom loop. }Open an earring wire, attach the feather pendant, and close the earring wire. Make a second earring to match the first. materials both projects saaetias Sree * diagonal wire cutters t + E5000 adheste necklace 15 in. (380m) *+ peacook feather + 2.16-n, 41cm) strands 45mm keshi pearls, dark blue * 2g size 11" seed or cylinder beads, « ‘gunmetal iis ‘* 6mm round crystal, Montana AB | + 3.5mm bicone crystals, olivine * 14-18 4mm bicone crystals, topaz and smoked topaz AB, * box clasp 9-48 in. (28-46cm) 24-gauge wire, flexible beading wire, .014 or 015 2crimp beads 3.5mm jump rings bead tip, clamshell style ‘crimping pliers (optional) ' earrings ’ * 2 peacock feathers ; + 40-60 keshi pearls, dark blue * 2g size 1" seed or cylinder beads, | ‘gunmetal iis ‘+ 26mm round crystals, Montana AB ‘+ 6 5mm bicone crystals, olivine + 8.4mm bicone crystals, 4 smoked topaz AB and 4 Montana AB + 12-24 in, @0-6tom) 24-gauge wire, half-hard + 2bead tips, clamshell style * pair of earring wiresBlue Anecklace and earrings with faceted crystals recall the light-infused palette of of a van Gogh painting by Cheryl Phelan In Vincent van Gogh’s famous color studies, he experimented with bold contrasts; his painting Vase with Lilacs, Daisies, and Anemones is no exception. Here, high-key yellows create brilliant illumination when placed against a background dominated by intense blues and greens. When translating van Gogh’s is, colors into jewelry, choose crystals in vivid colors and : look for the way they turn on the lights. Vase with Lilacs, Daisies, and Anemones bbaii 1887. Oil on canvas. necklace « String a 6mm blue cube crystal, a purple rondelle, and a 3mm blue bicone on a head pin, and make a plain loop (see Basics, p. 8) above the last bead. Make the following bead units the same way: * 4mm blue cube, 5mm blue bicone, and 3mm blue (make one unit) * 6mm green, 3mm blue (make one unit) + 4mm green, 3mm blue (make two units) * 3mm yellow, 3mm blue (make six units) * 8mm green, 3mm blue (make four units) inspiration fine art HOW TO USE COLOR IN LRY DESIGN 55\Cut a 1%-in. (4.4cm) piece of wire sand make a plain loop at one end, String an end link of a seven-link piece of cable chain, a 3mm blue bicone, a 6mm. blue cube, a 4mm dark blue bicone, a blue bicone/cube unit, a 4mm dark blue bicone, a 6mm blue cube, a 3mm blue icone, and a seven-link piece of chain. Make a plain loop next to the chain, ‘Connect the end links of the 11-ink [chains with a 6mm green/3mm blue unit, Cut two 8-in. (20cm) pieces of Jchain. Open the loops on the upper ‘component and attach an end link of each chain to each loop. Close the loops. Cut a 1¥-in. (3.80m) piece of wire Jand make a plain loop at one end. ‘String a 3mm blue bicone, a 4mm blue ‘cube, a 4mm dark blue bicone, a purple rondelle/cube unit, a 4mm dark blue bicone, a 4mm blue cube, and a 3mm blue bicone. Make a loop next to the end bead. ISkip a link next to the bottom unit and connect a 3mm yellow/blue Unit. Skip a link and connect a 3mm_ green/blue unit. Repeat, connecting five Units to each 11-link chain, alternating colors as shown, Connect a 4mm green/3mm blue Junit to each loop on the upper ‘component. Connect a jump ring to the end of one 8-in, chain and the lobster claw clasp to the other. 56 BEADING INSPIRATION é (Open the loops (Basics) on the ‘component made in step 3 and attach each end chain link on the ‘component made in step 2. Attach an 11- link chain to each loop. Close the loops. materials both projects * roundnose pliers * chainnose pliers '* diagonal wire cutters necklace 17 in. (43cm) ‘+ 6mm faceted rondelle crystal, purple ‘+ 6mm bicone crystal, green ‘+ 5mm bicone orystal, blue + 4mm bicone crystals 4 dark blue 2areen + 3mm bicone crystals 19 blue + cube crystals, diagonal hole 3.6mm blue 3.4mm blue + 41n. (10cm) 22-gauge wire * 20 in, (61cm) 3.5mm cable chain +15 1-in, @.5cm) head pins * lobster claw clasp with jump ring earrings. + 6mm bicone crystals 2 green 2 purple ‘+4 4mm cube crystals, diagonal hole, blue ‘= 3mm bicone crystals 36 blue 16 green 16 yellow *2in, (Gem) 22-gauge wire *2 in, (Gem) 3.5mm cable chain ‘*5in. (13cm) 2mm cable chain + 36 1-in. (2.5cm) head pins * pair of earring wiresGi o¢@ ‘earrings * String the following pairs of bicone crystals ‘on head pins and make a plain loop above the top bead ‘on each unit: + 3mm green, 3mm blue (make 16 units) + 3mm yellow, 3mm blue (make 16 units) + 6mm green, 3mm blue (make two units) ‘+ 6mm purple, mm blue (make two units) Set half of each type of unit aside for the second earring = a 1-in, (2.5cm) piece {Cut a nine-link piece of of wire, Make a plain }3.5mm cable chain and loop at one end, string a 4mm attach an end link to each cube, a four-link piece of loop. Close the loops. Open 2mm cable chain, anda 4mm the loop on a mm purple/ cube, Make a second loop in 3mm blue unit and connect the same plane as the first. _it to the short center chain, Open the loops and connect Close the loop. a 15-link piece of 2mm cable chain to each one. Don't close the loops. St Connect the end links ‘Connect 3mm units to Connect a 3mm green/ Slide an earring wire "of the long chains with a Jevery other chain link on blue unit to the loops into the middle chain 6mm green/3mm blue unit. each side (a total of 14) as in made in step 2. link. Use the remaining units step 7 of the necklace. from step 1 to make a second earring to match the first. HOW TO USE COLOR IN JEWELRY DESIGN 57Shades of blue merge in two luscious multistrand necklaces by Naomi Fujimoto This sky blue vase with its violet base pairs two lovely, cool jewel tones. In this necklace, a rich purple iolite pendant and amethyst-colored crystals add depth and definition to layers of transparent blue beads. A second version (page 60) makes a bolder statement. Four shades of blue beads, both smooth and faceted, dominate the piece, but a blue-violet strand of lavender jade adds subtle contrast, and a strand of silvery pearls lightens the dark composition. Keep your versions of the multistrand necklaces relatively short. They're designed to be worn right at the collarbone. 58 BEADING INSPIRATIONPreheat) xtend the length of a Gar) nd the eure cts cone, string 0 Pee asec) See unr iar necklace with pendant * Determine the finished length of the shortest strand (this one is 15 in./S8cm), add 6 in. (15cm), and cut a piece of beading wire to that length. Cut five more strands, each 1 in. (2.5cm) longer than the previous one. On the shortest wire, center a spacer. String six rectangles and a spacer on each end. Repeat until the strand is 2 in. (6cm) short of the desired length. Center the briolette on the longest strand. String a crystal and five rectangles on Jeach end, Repeat until the strand is 2 in. short of the desired length. inspiration | decorative art 1% in, (8.8cm) for trim the excess wire. end. Check the ft, allowing finishing. Add or remove an equal number of beads from each end, if necessary. Crimp the crimp beads (Basics) and ‘On one end, string a jcone and a crystal on ‘the wire. Make the first half of a wrapped loop above the crystal. Repeat at the other String the next four strands until each is 2in. short of the desired length: Strand 2: String four rectangles and a orystal Repeat. * Strand 8: String four rectangles and a spacer. Repeat. + Strand 4: Center a crystal. String six rectangles land a crystal on each end. Repeat. + Strand 5: Center a spacer. String five rectangles and a spacer on each end. Repeat. Cut two 4-in, (10cm) pieces of 22-qauge wire. At one end of each wire, make a wrapped loop (see Basics, p. 8) slightly larger than the hole at the ‘small end of the cone. (On one end of each strand, string approximately ' in. (1.30m) of 11" seed beads, a crimp bead, an 11°, and the wire loop. Go back through the 11°, the crimp bead, and two 11's. Tighten the wire. Repeat at the other end of the necklace. Repeat for the remaining strands. }On each end, attach half the clasp to the loop. Complete the wraps. HOW TO USE COLOR IN JEWELRY DESIGN. 59°materials both necklaces * flexible beading wire, 014 or 015 * chainnose pliers * roundnose pliers * diagonal wire cutters * crimping piers (optiona) Pendant necklace 15 in. (38cm) + 14x 17mm briolette iolite * 6 16-in. tem) strands 7x 9mm faceted glass rectangles, blue 60 BEADING INSPIRATION Determine the finished length of the shortest strand {this one is 13% in./34.3cm), ada 6 in, (15cm), and cut a piece of beading wire to that length. Cut five more strands, each 1 in (2.5cm) longer than the previous one. String beads on each wire until each one is 2 in. (Som) short of the desired length. Finish the necklace as in steps 4-8 of the pendant necklace. + 30-40 4mm bicone crystals, amethyst ‘ig size 11° seed beads, blue 25-35 34mm flat spacers 2 12x 19mm cones toggle clasp Bin, (20cm) 22-gauge wire . ‘12crimp beads . mixed bead necklace . 13% in. (34cm) . + 16-in. strand each of the following. 410mm round beads, blueberry quartz ‘mm round shell beads, blue ‘6mm round pearls, silver 5-6mm button-shaped pearls, dark blue 4mm round beads, lavender jade 3-4mm chalcedony rondelies 2.4mm crystals 1g size 11° seed beads 212x 19mm cones togale clasp B in, 22-gauge wire 12 crimp beadsEnjoy this beaded chain in one of several necklace styles or asa stylish belt. inspiration fabric Blue A versatile necklace doubles as a chain belt By Naomi Fujimoto Vivid splashes of red, orange, yellow, and aqua dance across the predominantly dark blue hues of this whimsical fabric. For this jewelry, replace the fabric’s yellow and orange with gold chain and pearls, and work with beads in red, pink, aqua, and blue. Although shown on page 63 on white trousers, this piece will also stand out against a dark blue shirt or indigo jeans. HOW TO USE COLOR IN JEWELRY DESIGN 61full-length necklace 62 BEADING INSPIRATION"sf belt/necklace + To make the Determine the desired finished ‘Attach a crystal dangle to the third dangles, sting a spacer and an &mm length of your belt by wrapping a 'or fourth chain link from the clasp. ‘ead on a head pin. Make the frst half of piece of chain around your waist. Add__Finish the wraps. Attach a dangle to awwrapped loop (see Basics, p.8) above 8-10 in. (20-25cm) for the extender and every third or fourth link, alternating the bead. Make a total of 40-60 dangles: cut the chain to that length. (This belt is gemstone and pearl dangles with 20-25 with crystals, ten or more with 11 yd./.9m, plus an 8-in. extender) Attach crystal dangles, until the beaded section gemstones, and ten or more with pearls. the clasp to the chain’s end link with a _fits around your waist. Do not attach jump ring (Basics). dangles to the remaining chain (the extender ‘Check the fit and trim the chain if the extender is too long, Attach ‘dangle to the end link and finish the earrings * Make a dangle as in step |Open the loop on an earring wire 1 of the necklace. Jand attach the dangle. Close the eer Toe ral Cort: cs ea a a ace crs loop. Make a second earring to match Cut a ¥4-1-in. (1.3-2.5em) piece of the first. ‘chain. Attach the dangle to an end link and finish the wraps. fashionable belt * HOW TO USE COLOR IN JEWELRY DESIGNGlass, gemstone, pearl, and enamel beads: different tones Jewelry set. Pairing dark and light shades creates a dramatic necklace and earrings set indig 5 by Helene Tsigistras 3, [) , a 2 inspiration color wheel This striking ensemble uses an analogous color scheme blue, indigo, and violet — with indigo’s complement, yellow-orange, for contrast. The drama is heightened by the use of different color values. Deep indigo and violet tones leap out against the lightest yellow-orange and blue, The result is playful, yet sophisticatedmaterials all projects Eolas pas * roundnose pliers Saag sore necklace 16 in. necklace * Determine the finished ‘On one wire, string aSmm gemstone andtwo (41m). length of your neckiace (this one is button beads on each side of the art bead. © 16mm art bead 18/2 n/47cm), add six in. (15cm), and cut + 24 10mm button tno strands of flexible beading wire to beads, indigo that length. Center the art bead on both © 16-in, strand 5mm, strands. button pears, violet + 58 3mm fire-polished glass beads, light blue + 34 4mm round ‘gemstone beads, yellow-orange or peach = 2g size 11° cylinder beads ++ toggle clasp * flexible beading wire, {On both ends of the wire, string a gemstone, a 3mm fire-polished bead, and an alternating 012-015 pattern of four pearis and three 11° seed beads. String a Smm, two gemstones, a3mm, and _* 2crimp beads an alternating pattern of three pearls and two seed beads, + crimping pliers String a Smm, three gemstones, and continue the pattem, alternating between three- and {our-peari segments, and two- and three-gemstone segments, as shown, until the necklace is earrings within 1 in, 2.5m) of the desired length. ‘+ 210mm button beads, indigo + 85mm button pearls, violet ‘+ 23mm fire-polished glass beads, light blue + 24mm round gemstone beads, yellow-orange or Peach On each end of the other wire, ‘String a crimp bead and the loop of a clasp ‘+ 10 2-in. head pins string a mm, a pearl, a seed bead, half on both wires at one end. Go back through _* pairearring wires apearl, a3mm, a gemstone, a3mm,a the crimp bead and tighten the wire so the button pearl, a seed bead, a pearl, a3mm, and beads nestle together. Repeat at the other end of three button beads on each side, Repeat the necklace. Check the fit. The button-bead strand the pattern until the necklace is within _should sit outside the other strand. Add or remove tin. of the desired length, alternating beads from both ends as necessary. Crimp the three- and two-button groups. crimp beads (see Basics, p. 8), and trim the tails. earrings * String a pearl ona String a button bead, a Attach two Open the loop on an ear head pin and make a wrapped loop mm, and a gemstone of the pear! ‘wire. Attach a pearl unit, (Basics). Make three more pearl units. onahead pin. Make the first units to the button the button bead unit, and a half of a wrapped loop above bead unit and pearl unit. Close the loops. ‘the beads. complete the Make a second earring to wraps. match the first. HOW TO USE COLOR IN JEWELRY DESIGN 65.inspiration Nature Knots made with consistent tension form a precise spiral. Embellish your macramé with spacers or other large-hole beads. A macramé necklace interspersed with silver beads supports an opal pendant by Debbie Nishihara Indigo What better way to re-enact the magic of a Blue Morpho’s wings than with opal? The stunning characteristic of both is iridescence: color created by the reflection and refraction of light. Here, a boulder opal paired with indigo-colored cord picks up the deep blues that define the butterf ’ silhouette, and frayed cord ends echo the motif of fluttering wings.‘Cut two 50-in. (1.3m) and two 30-in. (76cm) lengths of cord to make an 18-in. (46cm) necklace. Gather four ends : together and bring the cords through the loop on half the rs clasp. Slide the clasp to 8-in. (20cm) from one set of cut ends. Tie all the cords together with a double overhand knot (see Basics, p. 8) Slide a spacer over the four long cords and next tothe knot. Renumber the cords. 1-4 after every knot. Continue knotting from the left so the knots create a spiral, Make ¥ in. (1.3cm) of knots. String two spacers ra overall four cords and slide them up against the knots. Knot for 1% in. (8.2cm) ‘String an accent bead over all four cords and slide it against the knots. Repeat Until you have strung a total of three accent beads. Keep your knots tight against the ‘accent beads, Dot all the overhand knots, including those attaching the clasp, with glue and let dry. Trim the tails to Vin, 2.5cm) past the knots, half over all four cords. and tie a double overhand knot around the clasp loop. (On each tail, string a fire- | Slide the remaining clasp polished bead and two 8" and fray the ends by rubbing seed beads. Vary the position the cords back and forth of the beads and tie a double between your thumb and ‘overhand knot on each tail. _index finger. Attach the cords toa ;workboard by placing Tpins through the clasp loop. Arrange the working cords in a row so the two shortest are in the middle, Number the cords from left to right. Bring cord 1 over cords 2 and 3. Bring cord 4 over cord 1, under cords 3 and 2, and up through the hole created by cord 1, Pull the ‘outer cords tight to move the knot up to the spacer. Knot for 1/4 in. (8:80m) Position the opal at the Jand string a spacer top of your workboard over all four cords. Knot for __and secure with T-pins. ‘hin. and string two spacers. Make the second half of the Knot for 114 in. and string ‘a spacer bead. String the ‘opal focal bead over all four cords and slide it against the last spacer. Check the necklace to mirror the frst. rola a Meee and ecust the ongth dele, itnecessary by acang oy SEEM removing knots befor the opal and apace: materials necklace 18 in. (46cm) _polished beads, blue * boulder opal focal bead» 168” seed beads, dark (Eclectica, 262-641-0910 blue ‘or Opal illusions, + box clasp (ess Imports, 707-699-7887) jessimports.com) © 613mmsiNer accent Tuff cord, size3, navy beads (Fire Mountain (Ghor interational, Gems, 800-355-2137, shorinternational.com) firemountaingems.com) _* G-SHypo Cement ‘= 147mm star-shaped + macramé workboard spacers + Tpins * 8.4mm faceted round fire- HOW TO USE COLORIN JEWELRY OESIGN 67‘The unexpected addition of aqua crystals adds pizzazz to this classic necklace. inspiration color wheel aA yy . bs A TS ‘ Ma he 5 {| I We 27 ‘oe IO a Po et Enhance the regal hues of amethyst ar ey gemstones with crystal accents ot of by Debbie Nishihara Faceted amethy: s take on a lively, contemporary feel when aqua crystals are their companions. This unusual pairing works because the violet of the amethysts and green-blue of the crystals form half of a reliably compatible foursome on the color wheel known as a tetrad, which also includes their complements, yellow and red-orange, respectively' materials necklace 20 in. (51cm) ‘= amethyst pendant (Eclectica, 262-641-0910) = 16 12mm silver bead clusters (Fire Mountain Gems, 800-355-2137, firemountaingems.com) + amethyst beads 20 8mm round faceted 22 6mm round faceted + 82 4mm bicone crystals, * seed beads 2 size 6, any color B size 8°, purple * flat spacers 46mm 544mm toggle clasp flexible beading wire, 014 2crimp beads crimping pliers diagonal wire cutters als Pee esam at) Tolgiseeeepe Opec: een Zou Eee eee String an 8mm amethyst and a }émm spacer. Then string a repeating pattern of 6mm amethysts and 4mm spacers until you've strung a total of 11 6mm amethysts. End with a 4mm spacer. Repeat at the other end Determine the finished length of your necklace (this one is 20 in./Stcm), add 6 in. (15cm), and cut a piece of beading wire to that length. Center the Pendant on the wire. ‘On the other side of the pendant, string an 8mm amethyst, a 6mm spacer, and an 8mm amethyst. ‘Check the fit, and add or remove beads if necessary. On one end, string an 8°, a crimp bead, and five 8's. Go through the loop on the toggle bar and back through the 8°s, the crimp bead, and the next few beads. Tighten the wire and crimp the crimp bead (see Basics, p. 8). Trim the excess wire. ‘String two 6° seed beads, an 8mm ‘amethyst, a 6mm spacer, and an ‘8mm amethyst next to the pendant. Slide the pendant's bail over the 6°s, ‘On each end, string a 4mm spacer, ‘a bicone crystal, a silver bead cluster, a bicone, and a ¢mm spacer. String this pattern seven times on each end, with an 8mm amethyst between each repetition. End with a 4mm spacer. (On the other end, string an 8°, a crimp bead, and an 8°. Go through the loop on the other clasp section and back through the 8, the crimp bead, and the 8°. Tighten the wire, allowing for some flexibility, and crimp the crimp bead. Trim the excess wire. HOW TO USE COLOR IN JEWELRY DESIGN 6Violet Add texture to a multistrand bracelet with a mix of faceted and smooth beads inspiration Nature 70 BEADING INSPIRATION by Cheryl Phelan The evening sky is one of nature's most dramatic palettes. To capture the range of twilight colors, choose beads in purples, blues, and pinks as dominant colors, then add two complements, yellow and orange, for bright contrast. On each strand, colors progress from dark to light, but staggering the pattern creates a sense of movement in the diagonal bands of color. Bead colors, shapes, sizes, and finishes work in complete harmony in this striking bracelet design. materials bracelet 7 in. (186m) * Czech fire-polished beads 19 6mm purple 5 6mm dark blue 8 3mm bright pink + 106mm faceted round glass beads, violet ‘+ 106mm cube-shaped glass beads, purple * 106mm triangle-shaped glass beads, orange * faceted rondelles 20-24 6mm purple 10 6mm yellow toammopaquepink | + 10-15.4mm square glass beads, purple * 204mm round glass beads, orange + 110-120 3mm disk- shaped glass beads, pink, Violet, and purple five-strand slide clasp flexible beading wire, 014 10 crimp beads 10 crimp covers (optional) chainnose pliers crimping pliers diagonal wire cutterseT Prorat OT sau hee pubescence rahipsleees paren tiyes Hoeven te heranery Papen reir eeti paerrntenets plein ‘On each end, string a purple 6mm rondelle, a disk, a mm rondelle, a disk, a purple 6mm rondelle, a disk, a 6mm triangle, a 4mm round, a yellow 6mm rondelle, a 4mm round, disk, a 6mm triangle, a disk, a 3mm fire-polished bead, a disk, Center a blue 6mm fire-polished bead on one wire. On a purple 6mm fire-polished bead, and a disk. Use this as the ‘each end, string a disk, a 6mm cube, a disk, a purple center strand, Tape the ends to your beading surface. 6mm fire-polished bead, a disk, a 4mm square, a disk, a 6mm faceted round, and a disk. Determine the finished length of your bracelet, add 5 in. (13cm), and cut five strands of beading wire to that length, Set four strands aside. ‘Ona second strand of beading wire, string the pattern in Bre step 4 for the third strand. ‘step 2. Position the second strand under the first, aligning the blue fire-polished bead under a 6mm cube. String the bead sequence in step 3. On one end, you'll need to out the or. steps 4 and 5, positioning the strands above the pattern short; on the other end, you'll continue the pattern for a Jcenter strand, as shown. few more beads. Tape this strand in place when itis the same length as the first. Check the fit, and add or remove beads from one end if necessary. Make sure the strands are the same length Crimp the crimp beads (see Basics, p. 8) and trim the excess wire. JAt one end, string a crimp bead on each wire, go through the corresponding loop on a five-strand clasp, and back through the crimp bead and a few more beads. Repeat at the other end. 9°" each crimp bead with a crimp cover, if desired. | HOW TO USE COLOR IN JEWELRY DESIGN 71Violet Weave shell and gemstone beads together for a vibrant necklace, bracelet, and earrings set by Helene Tsigistras Vibrant red-violet takes center stage in this unusual split-complementary color scheme inspired by a shimmering satin fabric. The dyed shell beads imitate the iridescent nature of the violet backdrop, while the red-orange and green gemstones mimic the eye-catching beauty of the butterfly wings. The regal pattern of the beads is easy to achieve with a simple two- strand weave. inspiration fabric 72 BEADING INSPIRATION1 i the finished length of {On one side of the pendant, string two your necklace (this one is 19% in./49.5cm), add rondelles and a size 15° seed bead on each 12 in. (306m), and cut two strands of flexible beading wire, then cross the wires through a gemstone bead, wire to that length. Center the pendant unit on the strands, stringing rondelles within the pendant to support it. ‘String a seed bead and two rondelles on Repeat steps 2 and 3 on the other end of the Jeach wire. Pass each wire through a hole on ‘necklace. Continue the pattern on both sides a double-drilled shell bead, until the necklace is within 1% in. (3.8em) of the desired length. Although these woven strands look On one end of the necklace, string a crimp complicated, you can bead and the loop on a clasp half on each create them easily with wire. Go back through the crimp beads and tighten a simple two-strand the wires. Repeat on the other end of the necklace, weave. making sure all the beads are snug and orderly. ‘Check the fit, add or remove beads from both ends as necessary, and crimp the crimp beads (see Basics, p. 8). Trim the tails. HOW TO USE COLOR IN JEWELRY DESIGN 73bracelet » Determine the finished length of On each wire, string a your bracelet (this one is 7% in./19.1em), add rondelle and one hole of 6 in. (15cm), and cut five pieces of flexible beading _a double-drilled shell wire to that length. String a crimp bead on one strand and go through the bottom loop on a clasp half. Go back through the crimp bead and crimp. Repeat with another crimp bead and wire strand on the second loop. ‘On each wire, string two rondelles Jand a seed bead. Cross the wires through a gemstone bead. String a seed bead, two rondelles, and one hole of a shell bead on each wire, Repeat step 3 until the strand is within 1 in, (2.50m) of the ‘Attach a strand of beading wire to each ofthe loops on the ‘desired length. Tape the ends to secure. other end of the clasp half. Repeat steps 2-4 to create a ‘matching pattern with these strands. Ging crimp bead and the remaining lop) ofthe clasp {Untape the ends of the wires. String a crimp bead on each half. Go back through the crimp bead and crimp. String wire and take the strand through the corresponding loop ‘gemstones until the strand is within 1 in. of the desired length. on the other clasp half. Go back through the crimp beads. Tighten the wires so the patter is snug and crimp the crimp. beads. Trim the wire tals. 74 BEADING INSPIRATION‘earrings + Cut a6 in. (15cm) length of flexible beading wie. String one hole of a double-drilled shell bead on each end. String an 11° and three rondelles on Jeach strand, then string a rondelle and a orimp over both wires. materials all projects * chainnose pliers ‘+ roundnose pliers '* diagonal wire cutters + crimping pliers necklace 19% in. (60cm) + 30x 45mm filigree pendant + 18 15x 10mm double-drilled oval shell beads, violet ‘+ 18 9mm diamond-shaped gemstones, green turquoise ‘+ 216-in. strands 3mm rondelles, sunstone String three rondelles and an 11% (on each end, and cross the wires through a gemstone bead. Tighten the wires and go back through the crimp bead. Use your roundnose pliers to hold the loop in place and pul the wire tight. Crimp the crimp bead and trim the tails Open the loop (Basics) on an earwire and attach the earring. Close the loop. Make a second earring to match the first. + 3g size 15° seed beads, silver-plated * toggle clasp * flexible beading wire, 012-015 * 4-crimp beads bracelet 7 in. (19cm) + 14 15x 10mm double-crilled oval shell beads, violet ‘+ 16-in, strand 9mm diamond-shaped gemstones, green turquoise + 216-in, strands 3mm rondelles, sunstone ‘+ 3g size 15" seed beads, silver-plated * flexible beading wire, 012-015 © 10 crimp beads * five-strand slide clasp earrings + 215x 10mm double-diilled oval shell beads, violet + 2.8mm diamond-shaped gemstones, green turquoise + 133mm rondblies, sunstone * 8.size 150 seed beads, silver-plated + flexible beading wire, 012-015 + 2ctimp beads * pairearring wires HOW TO USE COLOR IN JEWELRY DE: 7sA blend of subtle hues captures the soft tones of a favorite shell in a multistrand necklace by Katee Lee Chimpouras inspiration nature To create this variegated Palette, mix beads in several colors and finishes in a small bow! betore you string them. Satin-finished beads in colors ranging from feathery grays to beige to soft peach do an excellent impersonation of the weathered texture and faded color of seashells. Crystals in varying shapes and sizes contrast gently with the monochromatic tones without disturbing the overall sense of unity. The finished piece looks as if it could have washed ashore alongside the shells it imitates, 76 BEADING INSPIRATION‘Cut four 6-in. (15cm) pieces of 20-gauge wire. Use the largest part of your roundnose pliers to make a Smm or lager wrapped loop (see Basics, p. 8) at one end of each wire, String 21 in. (6.4em) of Japanese cylinder beads, then string a 2'4-in, section of cylinder beads interspersed with crystals. Alternate these sections, ending with a cylinder bead section, until the strand is 3 in. (7.6m) short of the desired length. Repeat on the remaining strands; if desired, string four or five strands using only cylinder beads. Repeat steps 3 through § with the remaining wire loops jand seven strands of beading wire. Place one beaded section over the other. Wrap one wire stern around the other, 2s f making a wrapped loop. Trim the excess wrapping wire. Repeat on the other end. materials necklace 18 in. (46cm) + flexible beading wire, _-#126-1753-8mmenystals, 012-014 assorted shapes, colors ft tom) 20-gauge siver + 2.6mm beads wire, hal-hara *+35-40g Japanese cylinder + 26 crimp beads beads, satin finish ‘*225mm cones with a * chainnose pliers * roundnose pliers 12mm opening * crimping pliers ‘lobster claw or S-hook _* diagonal wire cutters: clasp and 2 jump rings Determine the finished length of your necklace. (This one is 18 in./46cm,) Double that measurement, add 8 in. (20em), and cut 13 pieces of flexible beading wire to that length. ‘Center one piece of beading wire on a wire loop, side a crimp bead over both ends, and slide the crimp bead close to the loop. Crimp the crimp bead (Basics). Make a total of six crimped pairs on one loop. ‘Check the fit, allowing 3 in. for the cones and clasp. Add or remove beads from each wire to even the ends. Working in pair, string a crimp bead over both wires, go through a wire loop from step 1, and go back through the crimp bead. Separate the wires and pass each through a few beads. Crimp the crimp bbeads and trim the excess wire, Repeat with each pair, ‘String a cone and a 6mm bead on the wire. Pull the wire and beads snugly into the cone. Make a wrapped loop above the bead, continuing the wraps until they reach the mm bead. Trim the excess wire. Repeat on the other end. Use a jump ring to attach a lobster claw clasp to either loop, oF attach an S-hook clasp. Attach a second jump ring to the remaining oop, i desired.Mix rich shades of browns and golds in a two-strand necklace by Cheryl Phelan The muted earthtone vines on a paper-covered box are reminiscent of faded country designs found on old, varnished furniture. This necklace captures the warmth of a traditional palette with a combination of opaque and translucent beads in a range of browns and golds. Light passing through the gemstones keeps the composition from becoming too somber. ‘The etched pendant rests on a seed bead centered on the bottom strand.e Center an 11° seed bead on an 18:-in. (46cm) length of Fireline, Hold the ends together and string the focal bead over both ends. Slide it ext to the 11 Position the focal bead's loop over the 11°. On one side, string a 10mm round, a rondelle, a 10mm, and a 4mm tan. Repeat on the other side of the pendant. eae }On the other wire, string an 11°, five 4mm dark browns, an 11", and a 4mm tan. Repeat this pattern until the strand is 1 in, shorter than the first strand, Thread both ends through a twisted-wire needle. String a 4mm dark brown wood bead and an 11 five times. Continue stringing this, patter on both ends Until you are 1 in, @.5cm) short of the desired length, String a crimp bead land half the clasp on ‘one end of the longer strand. Go back through the last beads strung. Repeat with the shorter strand, then repeat with the other ends. Check the fit, and add or remove beads if necessary. Crimp the crimp beads (Basics) and trim the ‘excess wire, Go back through the first 4mm and the focal bead to form a loop. Then go through the 11” and the focal bead again. Secure the beads by tying half-hitch knots (see Basics, p. 8) between a few beads in the loop. Glue the last knot and trim the excess Fireline. materials necklace 18 in. (46cm) +» 30-35mm focal bead, pietersite 16-in. (41cm) strands of gemstone beads: 10mm round Botswana agate ‘8mm Labradorite rondelles *16-in, strands 4mm wood beads, 1 each dark brown and tan inspiration | decorative art Determine the finished length of the pendant strand, which is the lower strand of the necklace. (This one is 18 in.) Add 6 in, (15cm) and cut two pieces of beading wire to that length. On one wire, string a 4mm tan bead, the focal bead'’s loop, an 11°, and a 4mm tan, 2g size 11° seed beads, gray * two-strand clasp * flexible beading wire, 012-014 * Fireline 6-8-Ib, test * 4.crimp beads + twisted-wire needles * diagonal wire cutters ‘crimping pliers80. BEADING INSPIRATION Combine the earthy colors of autumn ina classic necklace and earrings duo by Jane Konkel Browns and greens are a winning combination in nature as well as manmade applications. Take a cue from a home-decorating fabric, and use copper chain as a background color for dangling leaf-shaped beads in alternating green and amber tones. A second strand with larger leaves in burnt orange and an intrepid yellow bead in the center is the perfect accent to cap off the necklace with flair. Pressed-glass leaves add movement and interest to a multistrand chain necklace. i sii areata taints race ssittiltiainiasEf teckisce » Tommake the Open a loop (Basics) on ‘Cut four 276-in. (6.4cm) pieces of wire. Make the first half pendant, cut a 1!4-in, the 35mm leaf, attach ‘of a wrapped loop (Basics) on each. On two of the wires, (88cm) piece of 22-gauge one loop of a 12x 16mm leaf, string a bicone crystal, a spacer, a rondelle, a spacer, and.a Wire. Make a plain loop (See and close the loop. Repeat crystal. Make the first half of a wrapped loop. On the other two Basics, p. 8) at one end with the other 12 x 18mm leat f. wires, string a fire-polished bead, a spacer, a rondelle, a spacer, String the 18 x 35mm leaf- and a fire-polished bead. Make the first half of a wrapped loop. shaped bead and make a plain loop. Repeat with the 12x 16mm leaves. For the necklace sides, cut four B Gomect fre-poished bead unt to one 2¥-in. chain. Connect a 1¥-in chain to 2¥e-in. and two 1%:-in, (4.4cm) its other loop. Finish the wraps. Connect a bicone bead unit to the end chain link, Pieces of 6mm chain. Connect a jump Connect a 2%-in. chain to the other loop. Finish the wraps. Repeat on the other side of ring and a 2¥é-in. piece of chain toeach the pendant. of the 12 x 16mm leaves. 6 ver the finished lenath of your necklace’s shorter chain. (This one is 15 in/88cm) Cut a pece of 3mm chain to that length. Find the center link of the ‘chain. Open a jump ring, attach a 5 x Sm leaf to the center link, and close the jump ring, Attach a leaf bead to every other lnk in the chain, alternating colors. (Check the fit, and trim an equal ‘number of links from each end if Necessary. Open a jump ring and attach the links at one end of the chains to a Clasp half. Close the jump ring. Repeat on the other end, | HOW TO USE COLOR IN JEWELRY DESIGN. 81earrings * Cut a 2%4-in. (6.7cm) piece ‘of 8mm chain. Find the center link of the chain. Open a jump ring, attach a leat dangle to the center link, and close the jump ring. Attach the remaining dangles to every other link, alternating colors. materials both projects ‘* chainnose pliers ‘sroundnose pliers * diagonal wire cutters necklace 15 in. (38cm) * 18 x 35mm leaf-shaped bead (Fire Mountain Gems, 800-355-2137, firemountaingems.com) ‘* 2 12x 16mm leaf-shaped beads (Fire Mountain Gems) = 39 or more 5 x 9mm leaf-shaped beads in 2 colors (Eclectica, 262-641-0910) 82 BEADING INSPIRATION ‘Attach both ends of the chain to one loop on the bead unit. Complete both wrapped loops. + 4 8mm faceted glass rondelles in2 colors + 4.4mm fire-polished beads +4 4mm bicone crystals +8 5mm flat spacers + 14 in. (@6cm) antiqued-copper chain, 6mm links (Ornamentea, 919-834- £8634, ornamentea.com) * antiqued copper toggle clasp #15 in, (88cm) antiqued-copper chain, 3mm links * 12% in, (@1.80m) 22-gauge copper- plated wire * 43 5mm copper-plated jump rings Make the first haif of a wrapped loop. String a fire-polished bead, a spacer, a rondelle, a spacer, and a fire- Polished bead. Make the first half of a ‘wrapped loop. Open the loop on an earring wire, ‘attach the dangle, and close the loop. Make a second earring to match the first. earrings 185 x 9mm leaf-shaped beads in 2 colors (Eclectica) ‘+ 2 8mm faceted glass rondelles. + 4.4mm fire-polished beads © 4.5mm flat spacers: © 4% in, (11.40m) antiqued-copper chain, Sm links * 5 in, (13cm) 22-gauge copper-plated wire +18 5mm copper-plated jump rings + pair of copper-plated leverback earring wires |Cut a 2%4-in. (6.4em) piece of wire.Blend warm shades of gold with deeper tones of bronze and orange for a lustrous jewelry set by Helene Tsigistras The metallic gleam and rich colors of this decorative plate offer plenty of inspiration for gorgeous jewelry in shades of bronze, gold, and brown. Pearls offer the right amount of luster in metallic tones, while the carnelian beads add a spark of drama to the set. The blended shades of the plate, reminiscent of gold-leaf, are matched by the organic shapes of the pearls. inspiration decorative art HOW TO USE COLOR IN JEWELRY DESIGN 83necklace * Cut a2/-in, (6.4em) length of wire and make a plain loop (see Basics, p. 8) at one end. String a spacer, arondelle, a spacer, a rondelle, the pendant, a spacer, a rondelle, a spacer, and a rondelle. Attach the remaining ‘dangles to the chain, and complete the wraps. Make sure the dangles sit evenly on either side of the chain, as shown, ‘On one wire, string a rondelle and Hive yellow gold pearls. On the other wire, string a rondelle and five bronze earis. String a spacer over both wires. Repeat on the other end of the necklace. 184 BEADING INSPIRATION ‘Open a jump ring Basios), and string the tend link of the chain, Attach the jump ring to the pendant ring, 50 that the chain unit hangs in front of the pendant. AWS ie Pull the beads tight against the loop and curve the wire into a circle, Pull the tail through the loop and twist the ‘wire around itself, as in a wrapped loop (Basics). Trim the excess wire. four bead rings. String fve yellow gold pearis on one wire and five bronze pearls on the ‘other wire, Sting a bead ring over both wires. Repeat on the other end. Sy Inecklace is within 2 in. of the desired length. ‘Cut a 2-in, (Gem) length Jot wire and make a plain loop at one end. Alternate stringing rondelles and spacers until you have six beads. Repeat step 2 to finish the bead ring. Make a total of String a rondelle on a head pin and make the first half of a wrapped loop. Make a total of five rondelle dangles. Cut a %-in. (1.3cm) piece of chain (this one is three links long). Attach ‘a dangle to the bottom link of chain and. complete the wraps. Determine the finished length of your necklace (this one is 16 in/41cm), add six in. (18cm), and cut two strands of flexible beading ‘wire to that length. Center the pendant unit and a spacer over both strands. site tite tae ow tots wires. String five spacers, half the clasp, and five spacers. Go back through the crimp bead. Repeat on the other side of the necklace, Tighten the ‘wires so that the pearis sit snugly side- by-side, check the fit, and crimp the crimp beads (Basics). Trim the excess wire. Gently close crimp covers over the corimps (Basics).= bracelet * Determine the finished length of your bracelet (this one is 8in/20cm), add 5 in, (13cm), and cut two places of flexible beading wire to that length, On both strands, string a crimp bead, a spacer, and a clasp half. Go back through the spacer and crimp bead, tighten the wire, and crimp. String three more spacers, covering the crimp bead. ‘Separate the wires and string a rondelle, three yellow gold pearls, and a rondelle on one wire. String a rondelle, three bronze pears, and a rondelle on the other wire. String a spacer over both wires. Repeat this pattern until the bracelet is Yein. (1.3em) from the desired length. String three spacers, a crimp bead, Ja spacer, and the loop of the other clasp half. Go back through last beads strung, tighten the wires, check the fit, and crimp the crimp bead. Trim the excess wire, materials all projects * chainnose pliers + roundnose pliers * diagonal wire cutters necklace 16 in. (41cm) + 80mm enamel pendant (C-Koop, 218-525-7333) *16-in. strand 5mm teardrop pearls in each of 2 colors, bronze and yellow gold * 16-in. strand 4mm carnelian rondelles * 16-in. strand 4mm cube spacer beads, bronze * clasp (C-Koop) * vein, 5.5mm cable chain + 12 in, 24-gauge gold-filed wire * flexible beading wire, 012-015 ‘+ 2-crimp beads + 2crimp covers (optional) + 6mm jump ring * crimping pliers bracelet 7% in. (180m) ‘+ 5mm teardrop pears, 18 in each of 2 colors, bronze and yellow gold + 24 4mm carnelian rondelies + 13 4mm cube spacer beads, bronze * flexible beading wire, 012-015 + 2crimp beads * ctimping pliers earrings ‘+ Smm teardrop pearls, 4 bronze 2 yellow gold + 10 4mm camelian rondelles ‘+ 6 4mm cube spacer beads, bronze + 12 in, 24-gauge golc-flled wire * pair earring wires ‘earrings * Cut a6-in. (15cm) piece of wire, Center a yellow gold pearl on one wire and string a bronze pearl, a rondelle, a spacer, and a rondelle on each end. Curve the wire into a loop. Bend one wire straight up and wrap the other ‘wire around it. Trim the tail of the wrapping wire. wraps. ‘String a spacer bead Jand a rondelle over the Make a wrapped loop ‘above the rondele. (pen the loop on an earring Wire and attach the bead unit, ‘Make a second earring to match the first. HOW TO USE COLOR IN JEWELRY DESIGN. 65inspiration fabric 5) oar 86 BEADING INSPIRATION Gold combines with claret red to yield an elegant pair of earrings by Anna Elizabeth Draeger Create earrings with the look of fine filigree using seed beads and, crystals. Gold draws attention to most color combinations. Here, matte- finished metallic gold beads are interspersed with deep red crystals in a rhythmic pattern, providing contrast as well as balance to the design. Notice how the gold loops emphasize the earrings’ symmetry and re-creates the delicate filigree of the braided trim and the fabric’s embroidery. fcltcommitis Se ee a CCU eee neta Dee ee eee ae Seu cee tee od geceCut a 2-4t. (61cm) length of beading wire. Center three cylinder beads (on the wire. Hold the ends together and string a crystal and a cylinder over both strands. ‘String a crystal on each strand and a ‘cylinder over both strands. ‘On one strand, string a crystal and /seven cylinders. Go through the second cylinder added in step 4. String a crystal and go through the first cylinder ‘added in this step. Repeat with the other strand. \On one end, string a crystal, a cylinder, a crystal, and seven cylinders. Go back through the first cylinder strung in this step and pull the beads into a tight ring. Repeat with the other strand, (On one strand, string a crystal, ‘a cylinder, a crystal, and seven cylinders. Go back through the second cylinder added in step 2. String a crystal and go through the first cylinder added in this step. Repeat with the other strand. Repeat step 3, then string a crystal and a crimp bead. Go back through the crimp bead, tighten the wire to create small loop, and crimp the crimp bead (20 Basics, p. 8) materials earrings 44 3mm bicone crystals ‘1g Japanese cylinder beads flexible beading wire, 014-015 2 crimp beads pair of earring wires Chainnose pliers crimping pliers diagonal wire cutters, 5 Repeat step 3. ‘Open the loop on an earring wire (Basics) and attach the earring. Make a second earring to match the first RIN JEWELRY DESIGN 87Natural and metallic materials come together in this sophisticated necklace, bracelet, and earrings set by Helene Tsigistras inspiration | ecorative art Brown, black, and gleaming silver merge in woven place mats that manage to look both natural and sophisticated. To achieve a similar winning effect, sparkling black crystals and silver cubes and pendants work in tandem with lustrous shell and heishi beads; this jewelry has MN the shine of metal and the substance of earth tones. Three silver pendants joined by chain form the focal point of the necklace. 88 BEADING INSPIRATIONnecklace + Cut three 3-in. (7.6cm) lengths of 24-gauge wire. String a teardrop shell on each of the wires, and make a wrapped loop above each bead (see Basics, p. 8) ‘of chain. Open a jump ring (Basics), and attach a silver pendant and shell unit to the last link of the chain, Close the jump ring. Determine the finished length of your necklace (this one is 18 in/46cm), add 6 in. (15cm), and cut a strand of flexible beading wire to that length. Center the pendant unit on the strand. ‘On one side of the pendant unit, string a bicone, a spacer, a bicone, 1 in. (2.5cm) lof heishi beads, a bicone, a spacer, and bicone. Repeat on the other side. String a teardrop shell bead on each end of the necklace. Repeat step 5 until the necklace is within 1 in. of the desired length. You may need to adjust the number of heishi beads in the last repeat. String a crimp bead, the loop of a ciasp half, and a crimp bead on one end of the necklace. Go back through the crimp bead and the next few beads, tighten the wire, and crimp the crimp bead (Basics). Repeat on the other end of the necklace and. trim the tails. \Cut an 2-in. (Som) length ‘Open a second jump ring and attach fanother pendant and shell unit to the cchain, four links up the chain. Use a third jump ring to attach the last pendant and shell unit to the other end of the chain. materials projects * chainnose pliers + roundnose pliers + diagonal wire cutters necklace 18 in. (46cm) * 3 silver pendants ‘+ 5 15mm teardrop shell beads ‘+ 28 3mm bicone crystals, black + 16-in. strand 4mm heishi beads, olive shell ‘+ 14 4mm cube spacer beads, silver * toggle clasp * Zin. (Gcm) cable chain, 5mm Bin. (20cm) 24-gauge wire * flexible beading wire, 012-015 + 2 crimp beads + 3.6mm jump rings * crimping pliers, bracelet 7 in. (19cm) ‘+3 15mm teardrop shell beads + 55 3mm bicone crystals, black *16-in. strand 4mm heishi beads, clive shell ‘+ 40 4mm cube spacer beads, silver ** two-strand clasp * flexible beading wire, .012-.015, ‘+ 4-crimp beads + crimping pliers arrings: + 6 15mm teardrop shell beads ‘+ 143mm bicone crystals, black ‘+ 8 4mm heishi beads, olive shell + 6 4mm cube spacer beads, silver * 2disk-shaped metal findings + 26-in (61cm) 24-gauge wire * pair earring wires HOW TO USE COLOR IN JEWELRY DESIGN 89bracelet * Determine the finished length of your bracelet (this one is 7% in./19cm), add 5 in. (13cm), and cut three pieces of flexible beading wire to that length. String a crimp bead and one loop of a clasp half on one wire. Tighten the wire, and crimp the crimp bead. String ‘crimp bead and the other loop of the clasp half on the other two wires, tighten the wires, and crimp the crimp bead. D30 a bicone over the two wires crimped together. ‘On the attached wire, string a bicone, 1¥ in. (3.8m) of ‘Separate the wires. String an alternating pattern of bicones heishi beads, a bicone, and a spacer. Repeat until the {and spacers until the bracelet is within 1 in. of the desired length. strand is within 1 in. of the desired length, ending with a bicone. 4: the single strand, string a bicone, a spacer, a bicone, 1 in. 5a a crimp bead and the corresponding loop on the ‘of heishi beads, a bicone, a spacer, a bicone, and a teardrop. ‘other clasp half over the two strands crimped together. Repeat unti the strand is within 1 in. of the desired length. String a crimp bead on the teardrop strand and go through the other loop. Go back through the crimp beads, tighten the strands, and crimp the crimp beads. ‘ti Veeaeeaaa ectearrings * Cut three 4-in. (10cm) lengths of 24-gauge wire. String one teardrop shell on each of the wires and make a set of wraps above the bead. String a bicone, a cube, and a bicone on each unit. On one unit, string three heishi beads and abicone, ‘on the end of each unit. Connect, ‘the longest unit to the center hole in the finding, and the shorter units to the holes (on either end, Finish the wraps and trim the tails. Open the loop on an earring finding and attach the disk unit. Make a second earring to match the fist. Make the first half of a wrapped loop USE COLOR IN JEWELRY DESIGN 91VV AY FRE Whimsical charms accent a multistrand bracelet } by Anna Elizabeth Draeger Combine black and white to make eye-catching jewelry with maximum contrast. You'll come up with something distinctive no matter what proportions you choose. Here, striped and solid-color beads mimic the zebra’s mix of equal parts of black and white. Although any charms will work, I couldn't resist the chance to dangle a few zebras from my wristmaterials bracelet 7 in. (180m) * 16 5mm cube-shaped crystals, diagonal hole ‘size 11° seed beads 45g black with white stripe 5g white with black stripe 5g white = 3 charms ‘s two-strand clasp ‘flexible beading wire, .010-012 ‘= 4 crimp beads ‘ chainnose or crimping pliers * diagonal wire cutters. A two-strand clasp easily accommodates a six- strand bracelet when th beads are relatively sm: a Determine the finished length of your ‘String a 5mm cubs-shaped crystal bracelet, add 5 in. (13cm), and cut six and a black with white stripe (black) strands of beading wire to that length. 11” seed bead on each set of strands. String a crimp bead and one loop of the clasp over al three strands. Take all three ends back through the crimp bead and crimp it (see Basics, p. 8). Tim the tails close to the crimp. Repeat with the other three strands on the other clasp loop. String 20 black 11°s on the first Bring the white strand from the String a charm on the bottom set of strand of each set of wires, string bottom set around the black strand strands. String a crystal and a black 20 white with black stripe (striped) 11°s from the top set to link the two. Stringa 11° on each set of strands. Repeat steps fon the second strand, and string 20 white black 11, a crystal, and a black 11" on 3-5 two more times. 11s on the third strand, each set of strands, Repeat steps 3-4, omitting the last String a crimp bead on each set of strands. Go through the corresponding loops black 11° on each set of strands, (on the clasp and back through the crimp beads. Tighten the wires. Check the fit, and add or remove beads if necessary. Crimp the crimp beads. Trim the excess wire.Black-and-white beads and gunmetal chain form a necklace and bracelet ensemble by Jane Konkel The timeless appeal of a contemporary, crackle- glazed ceramic vessel invoked the bone, wood, and heishi chosen for this necklace and bracelet set. Working with the bow!’s earthy, achromatic palette results in more than a translation of color; it is also one of essence — jewelry with a primitive, handcrafted appearance, filled with significance, and reminiscent of an amulet or talisman. This dramatic two-part bone, wood, and gemstone necklace consists of a short strand with a single focal bead and a longer strand with multiple bead components linked with chain. 94 BEADINGiH materials both projects * chainnose pliers, ‘*roundnose pliers diagonal wire cutters * split-ring pliers (optional) necklace 30 in. (76cm) #90 x 55mm bone pendant +225 x 40mm carved bone pendants +3 12mm bone disks #4 10mm dalmatian jasper disk beads +3. 9mm faceted round smoky quartz beads +8 6mm black wood beads * 2.4mm round dalmatian jasper beads + 2.4mm white heist * gunmetal lobster claw clasp * 5 ft (1.5m) gunmetal figaro chain, 3mm (Shipwreck Beads, 800-950- 4232) *92-in, (Sem) gunmetal eye pins + 2.6mm gunmetal split rings #8 4mm oval gunmetal jump rings bracelet 6 in. (1Sem) with 2%2 in. (6.4m) extender + 212mm bone disks +3 10mm dalmatian jasper disk beads + 9mm faceted smoky quartz beads +4 6mm black wood beads *.6 4mm round dalmatian jasper beads * gunmetal lobster claw clasp #114 ft. (460m) gunmetal figaro chain, ‘3mm (Shipwreck Beads) #6 2-in. (5cm) unmetal eye pins + 26mm gunmetal spit rings +10 4mm oval gunmetal jump rings ‘Cut two 14-in. (36cm) pieces of chain. Open a jump ring, Attach one end link of each chain and the pendant unit's remaining loop. Close the jump ring, necklace * On one eye pin, string a amm String a round smoky heishi, a 6mm wood bead, three bone disks, a (quartz bead on an eye 6mm, and a heishi. Make a plain loop (see Basics, pin. Make a plain loop above . 8) above the beads. On another eye pin, string the bead. Make a total of three a 6mm, a 25 x 40mm bone pendant, and.a 6mm. smoky quartz dangles. Make a plain loop. Make another pendant unit on a third eye pin. On a fourth eye pin, string a 4mm round, a 6mm, four 10mm disks, a 6mm, and a 4mm round. Make a plain loop. Cut two 27m, (e4om) and one in Open a jump ring (76cm) pieces of chain, (@asics) and attach each chain to the oop on a pendant Open the loop (Basics) of a smoky quartz unit. Close the jump ring, dangle and attach an end link of chain, Close the loop. Repeat with the other two inspiration Pee decorative art }Open two jump rings and attach a bead unit to corresponding links on each chain, starting 11% in. (8.86m) above the connection made in step 6. Close the jump rings. Repeat with the two remaining bbead units, attaching them 1 in, (2.5em) apart on the chains.‘Cut two 7-in. (18cm) pieces of chain. ]Open the loop of an eye pin and attach the end link of one chain. Close the loop. Make the first haf of a wrapped loop (Basics), attach one hole on the 30 x 55mm pendant, and complete the wraps. Repeat on the other edge of the pendant using the other piece of chain. (Check the fit. To shorten the necklace, remove an equal number of inks from each of the two 14-in. chains and each of the two 7-in. chains. Working one end at a time, attach the chains’ end links to a split ring. Attach the lobster claw clasp to either split ring bracelet * On each of two eye pins, string a 6mm, a 12mm disk, and a ‘6mm. On each of three eye pins, string a 4mm round, a 10mm disk, and a 4mm round. Make a plain loop above the end bead of each unit, \Cut two 514-in. (14cm) pieces of ichain. Open two jump rings and attach a bead unit to corresponding links ‘on each chain, starting % in. (1.6m) from the end links. Close the jump rings. Repeat with the remaining bead units, attaching them 1 in. (2.5cm) apart on the chains, ‘Cut a 2-in. (5cm) piece of chain for the extender. String a round smoky quartz bead on an eye pin. Make a plain loop above the bead. Open the loop and attach an end link of the extender chain. Close the loop. ‘On each end of the bracelet, attach ithe chains’ end links to a spit ring. On one end, attach the extender to the split ring. On the other end, attach the lobster claw clasp.Bright ideas.for using COLOR in your jewelry Vibrant reds, lush greens, cool blues, elegant black and white—many great jewelry designs spotlight color. Selecting just the right shades or combinations often can be challenging, so make Beading Inspiration: How to use COLOR in jewelry design part of your personal jewelry library. This beautiful book is packed with new and traditi6nal approaches to designing with color that will yexband your current palette as well as your ive Confidence. Each jewelry project explores color, using one of four sources of inspiration: ¢ nature ¢ the color wheel * decorative art ° fabric Beading Inspiration features 16 tried-and-true projects from the editors of BeadStyle and Bead&Button magazines, plus six additional, brand-new designs Step-by-step instructions and full-color photos make directions accessible to beaders of any experience level, and individual introductions visually connect each piece of jewelry to a specific source of creative inspiration. [ sexes US. $19.95 el | ISBN 978-0-8722b-24b- ‘O00 aBasics Plain loop le || @ | Trim the wire or head pin % in, (Jem) above the top bead. Make aright-angle bend close tothe bead, Wrapped loop 4 Make sure you have atleast 1%4in. G.2em) of wire above the bead. With the tip of your chainnose pliers, arasp the wire directly above the bead, Bend the wire above the pliers) into a right angle. '5 Position the chainnose pliers jaws across the loop. 2 Grab the wire’s tip with roundnose pliers. The tip of the Wire should be flush with the pliers. Roll the wire to form a half citcle. Release the wire 2 Using roundnose pliers, position the jaws in the bend. 6 Wrap the wire around the wire stem, covering the stem between the loop and the top bead. Tri 1d press the close to the wraps with chainnose pliers. 3 Reposition the plies in the loop and continue rolling, Bring the wire over the top {Jaw of the roundnose pliers, 4 The finished loop should form a centered circle above the bead. 4 Reposition the pliers" lower jaw sm the loop. Curve the wire downward around the bottom of the roundnose pliers. “This is the frst half of a wrapped loop. Opening and closing jump rings iN 4 Hold the loop or jump ring with two pairs of chainnose pliers ‘or chainnose and roundnose pliers, as shown, 2 Tooopen the loop or jump ring, bring one pairof pliers toward {you and push the other pair away, ‘String materials on the open loop ‘or jump ring. Reverse the steps to ‘open loop or jump tin closeWrapped loop over a top-drilled bead 1 Center a top-drilled bead on a Sin, (7.6m) piece of wire Bend each wire upward to form Asquared-off “U" shape. Overhand knot Make a loop and pass the working end through it, Pull the ends to tighten the knot. Half-hitch knot e ‘Come out a bead and form a loop perpendicular to the thread. between beads, Bring the needle under the thread away from the loop. Then go back over the thread and through the loop. Pull gently so the knot doesn’t tighten prematurely. Folded crimp 1 Position the crimp beaut in the notch closest to the erimping pliers’ handle. 2 Cross the wires into an ‘3 Using chainnose pliers, make above the bead, ‘a small bend in each wire $0 the tends form a right angle. Square knot 4 Cross the right- 2 Cross right over left, forming the left-hand cord, and then bring loop, and go through the loop, itunder the left-hand cord from "again from back to front. Pull the back to front, Pull itup in front ends to tighten the knot, so both ends are facing upward. Flattened crimp 1 Hold the crimp using the tip of 2 Tug the wire to make sure your chainnose pliers. Squeeze the crimp has a solid grip. Ifthe the pliers firmly to flatten the wire slides, remove the crimp crimp. and repeat the steps with a new crimp, 4 Wrap the horizontal wie around the vertical wire asin a ‘wrapped loop. Trim the & Surgeon's knot Cross the left end over the right tend and go through the loop. Pull the ends to tighten. Cross the right end over the left end and {g0 through the loop, Go through again, Pull the ends to tighten. Crimp covers Cup the crimp cover around the crimped crimp bead and gently close with chainnose pliers or the notch near the tip of your crimping pliers. 2 Separate the wires and firmly & Move the crimp into the notch squeeze the crimp. atthe pliers’ tip and hold the crimp as shown. Squeeze the crimp bead, folding it in half at the indentation, 4 Test that the folded erimp is HOW TO USE COLOR IN JEWELRY DESIGN 9