How To Use A Multimeter Simplified - A Complete DIY Step by Step Guide On How To Use A Multimeter To Measure Voltage, Current, Resistance, Continuity and in Troubleshooting Circuits PDF
How To Use A Multimeter Simplified - A Complete DIY Step by Step Guide On How To Use A Multimeter To Measure Voltage, Current, Resistance, Continuity and in Troubleshooting Circuits PDF
Simplified
Shawn Corbett
TABLE OF CONTENTS
INTRODUCTION
CHAPTER ONE
WHAT'S A MULTIMETER
CHAPTER 2
HOW TO UTILISE IT IN MEASURING VOLTAGE
CHAPTER 3
HOW TO UTILISE IT IN MEASURING CURRENT
CHAPTER 4
HOW TO UTILISE IT IN TESTING CONTINUITY
THE END
INTRODUCTION
Checking your vehicle battery life, troubleshooting circuits, and finding that
annoying short are for the most part too valuable capacities that should be
possible with only one magnificent device: the multimeter!
This guide will show you how to use multimeter to measure voltage
,resistance ,current and also check for continuity while trying to troubleshoot
a circuit.
CHAPTER ONE
WHAT'S A MULTIMETER
As a matter of first importance, what the hell is a multimeter?? Amazing
arrangement question! It's a handheld gadget with pack of various electrical
meters - henceforth, multi-meter!
Estimating voltage, resistance, current, and continuity are the most widely
recognized application of a multimeter. Peruse on (as well as look at the
recordings) to realize what this implies, how to do it without anyone's help,
and how to pick your own one of a kind multimeter.
Two Probes are connected to two of the ports on the facade of the unit. COM
represents normal and is quite often associated with Ground or '- ' of a circuit.
The COM probe is traditionally dark however there is no difference between
the red probe and dark probe other than shading. 10A is the exceptional port
utilized when estimating huge flows (more prominent than 200mA).
mAVΩ is the port that the red test is expectedly connected to. This port
permits the estimation of current (up to 200mA), voltage (V), and obstruction
(Ω). The tests have a banana type connector on the end that connects to the
multimeter. Any test with a banana attachment will work with this meter.
This takes into consideration various sorts of tests to be utilized.
WHAT MAKES A GOOD MULTIMETERS
There are a couple of key contrasts between multimeters, the fundamental
one being simple versus computerized:
Simple multimeters show ongoing changes in voltage and current, yet can be
hard to peruse and log information.
Advanced Multimeters are simpler to peruse, however may set aside some
effort to settle.
Other than those two fundamental contrasts, you'll need a multimeter that has
separate ports for current and voltage estimations (this is a wellbeing issue,
both for the meter and for yourself).
All multimeters have voltage and current meters (else they'd simply be called
voltmeters and ammeters!), and most additionally measure obstruction. There
are an assortment of other "extra" highlights relying upon producer and cost
(for example coherence, capacitance, recurrence, and so on.).
there are a huge amount of various kinds of probe leads, including croc cuts,
IC snares, and test probes.
Air conditioning voltage (like what comes out of the divider) can be
hazardous, so we seldom need to utilize the AC voltage setting (the V with a
wavy line close to it). In case you're playing with AC, we suggest you get a
non-contact analyzer as opposed to utilize an advanced multimeter.
What Happens When I Switch The
Probe
What occurs in the event that you switch the red and dark probe? The result
on the display of the multimeter is essentially negative. Nothing awful
occurs! The multimeter measures voltage comparable to the regular test.
What amount of voltage is there on the '+' of the battery contrasted with
normal or the negative pin? 1.5V. On the off chance that we switch the tests,
we characterize '+' as the normal or zero point. What amount of voltage is
there on the '- ' of the battery contrasted with our new zero? - 1.5V!
Circuit Scenario
With some power (envision sticking a fork into a bit of cooked meat), push
the probe onto two uncovered bits of metal. One probe should contact a GND
association while the other probe should contact the 5V or VCC contact .
We can test various pieces of the circuit also. By estimating the voltage over
the circuit we can perceive how much voltage every part requires. We should
quantify the entire circuit first. Estimating from where the voltage is going in
to the resistor and afterward where ground is on the LED, we should see the
full voltage of the circuit, expected to be around 5V.
We would then be able to perceive how much voltage the LED is utilizing.
This is what is alluded to as the voltage drop over the LED. In the event that
that doesn't bode well currently, fear not. It will as you investigate the
universe of hardware more. The significant thing to remove is that various
pieces of a circuit can be estimated to break down the circuit all in all.
Considering the circuit in the
picture below :
This LED is utilizing 2.66V of the accessible 5V gracefully to light up. This
is lower than the forward voltage expressed in the datasheet because of the
circuit just having modest quantity of current running however it, yet more on
that in a piece.
What occurs in the event that you select a voltage setting that is
unreasonably low for the voltage you're attempting to gauge?
Not much. The meter will essentially show a 1. This is the meter attempting
to reveal to you that it is over-burden or out-of-extend. Whatever you're
attempting to peruse is a lot for that specific setting. Take a stab at changing
the multimeter handle to a the following most elevated setting.
CHAPTER 3
The main thing we'll require is an additional bit of wire. As referenced, we'll
have to truly intrude on the circuit to gauge the current. Said another way,
pull out the VCC wire setting off to the resistor, include a wire where that
wire was associated, and afterward test from the force nail to the force
gracefully to the resistor. This successfully "breaks" capacity to the circuit.
We at that point embed the multimeter in-line with the goal that it can gauge
the present as it "streams" through to the multimeter into the bread load up.
For these photos, we utilized alligator clips. When estimating current, it's
frequently acceptable to watch what your framework does after some time,
for a couple of moments or minutes. While you should remain there and hold
the tests to the framework, now and again it's simpler to let loose your hands.
These gator cut tests can prove to be useful. Note that practically all
multimeters have the equivalent estimated jacks (they're designated "banana
plugs") so in case you're when there's no other option, you can utilize your
companion's probes.
With the multimeter associated, we would now be able to set the dial to the
correct setting and measure some current. Estimating current works
equivalent to voltage and opposition - you need to get the right range. Set the
multimeter to 200mA, and work from that point. The present utilization for
some, breadboard ventures is for the most part under 200mA. Ensure the red
test is connected to the 200mA melded port. On our most loved multimeter,
the 200mA opening is a similar port/gap as voltage and obstruction perusing
(the port is marked mAVΩ). This implies you can keep the red test in a
similar port to quantify current, voltage, or obstruction. In any case, in the
event that you speculate that your circuit will utilize near or more than
200mA, change your test to the 10A side, as a sanity check. Over-burdening
the current can bring about a blown wire as opposed to only an over-burden
show. More on that in a piece.
Understand that the multimeter is going about as a bit of wire - you've
currently finished the circuit, and the circuit resolution on. This is significant
in light of the fact that over the long haul the LED, microcontroller, sensor, or
whatever gadget being estimated may change its capacity utilization, (for
example, turning on a LED can bringing about a 20mA increment for a
second, at that point decline for a second when it kills). On the multimeter
show you should see the quick current perusing. All multimeters take
readings after some time and afterward give you the normal, so anticipate that
the perusing should vacillate. By and large, less expensive meters will
average all the more cruelly and react all the more gradually, so think about
each perusing while taking other factors into consideration. In your mind,
take a normal range, for example, 7 to 8mA under typical 5V conditions (not
7.48mA).
Like different estimations, when estimating current, the shade of the tests
doesn't make a difference. What occurs in the event that we switch probes?
Nothing awful occurs! It basically motivations the present perusing to get
negative:
CHAPTER 4
Caution! As a rule, turn OFF the framework before checking for congruity.
On a breadboard that isn't fueled, utilize the tests to jab at two separate
ground pins. You ought to hear a tone demonstrating that they are associated.
Jab the tests from the VCC nail to a microcontroller to VCC on your capacity
gracefully. It ought to discharge a tone demonstrating that force is allowed to
spill out of the VCC pin to the miniaturized scale. In the event that it doesn't
transmit a tone, at that point you can start to follow the course that copper
follow takes and tell if there are breaks in the line, wire, breadboard, or PCB.
At the point when a framework isn't working, progression is one more thing
to help investigate the framework. Here are the means to take:
In the event that the framework is on, cautiously check VCC and GND with
the voltage setting to ensure the voltage is the right level. In the event that the
5V framework is running at 4.2V check your controller cautiously, it could
be hot showing the framework is pulling a lot of current.
Force the framework down and check congruity among VCC and GND. In
the event that there is congruity (on the off chance that you hear a signal), at
that point you have a short some place.
Force the framework down. With congruity, watch that VCC and GND are
accurately wired to the pins on the microcontroller and different gadgets. The
framework might be fueling up, yet the individual ICs might be wired wrong.
Accepting you can get the microcontroller running, put the multimeter in a
safe spot, and proceed onward to sequential troubleshooting or utilize a
rationale analyzer to examine the computerized signals.
CHAPTER 5
HOW TO UTILISE IT IN MEASURING RESISTANCE
Ordinary resistors have shading codes on them. In the event that you don't
have the foggiest idea what they mean, that is alright! There are a lot of
online number crunchers that are anything but difficult to utilize. Be that as it
may, on the off chance that you ever wind up without web get to, a
multimeter is exceptionally convenient at estimating obstruction.
Select an irregular resistor and set the
multimeter to the 20kω setting. At that point hold the tests against the resistor
legs with a similar measure of weight you when squeezing a key on a
console.
The meter will peruse one of three things, 0.00, 1, or the real resistor rating or
value.
For this situation, the meter peruses 0.97, which means this resistor has an
estimation of 970ω, or about 1kω (recall you are in the 20kω or 20,000 Ohm
mode so you have to move the decimal three spots to one side or 970 Ohms).
On the off chance that the multimeter understands 1 or presentations OL, it's
over-burden. You should attempt a higher mode, for example, 200kω mode
or 2MΩ (megaohm) mode. There is no mischief if this occur, it just methods
the range handle should be balanced.
In the event that the multimeter peruses 0.00 or almost zero, at that point you
have to bring down the mode to 2kω or 200ω.
Recall that numerous resistors have a 5% resilience. This implies the shading
codes may demonstrate 10,000 Ohms (10kω), but since of inconsistencies in
the assembling procedure a 10kω resistor could be as low as 9.5kω or as high
as 10.5kω. Try not to stress, it'll stir fine and dandy as a draw up or general
resistor.
THE END