Al-Azhar University ‫جامعة االزهر‬

Faculty of Pharmacy (Boys) ‫(كلية الصيدلة )بنين‬

Cairo ‫القاهرة‬

RESEARCH PROJECT
Department: Pharmaceutical analytical chemistry
Academic year: 2019/2020
Course name: Applied analytical chemistry
Course code: PAC326
Lecturers: Dr/ Khaled Abdelsalam
Dr/ Ebrahim Aboelmagd
Dr/ Ayman Osman
Dr/Mohamed Abd allah
Research project title: Coloring matter used for cosmetic products.

STUDENT INFORMATION
Student Name: ‫أحمد محمد ابراهيم عبد السميع‬
Student Number: 2018026
e-mail: [email protected]
Mobile number: 01120444261

STUDENT INFORMATION
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Al-Azhar University ‫جامعة االزهر‬
Faculty of Pharmacy (Boys) ‫(كلية الصيدلة )بنين‬
Cairo ‫القاهرة‬

Content

Topic Page No.

Introduction 3

Coloring agent 4

Colorant 5

Pigments 6

Summary 8

References 9
Introduction

1.Decorative cosmetics are principally used to beautify or cover minor, visible

imperfec-tions. Shiny, oily, inhomogeneous colouring, as well as slight imperfections
on skin sur-face are corrected by these kinds of cosmetics. These products play an
important role , creating the effect of youthfulness and wholesomeness which are
becoming more and more important in our society today.

The different types of decorative cosmetics include foundations, lipsticks, glosses,

mas-caras, nail lacquers and powders.

Dealing with this subject demands a wide understanding of colouring agents.

The aim of this section is to introduce the reader to the topic of decorative cosmetics,
discussing the different colouring agents and types of decorative cosmetic products.

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Research Project

2.COLOURING AGENTS:

Colouring agents are added to cosmetics in order to colour the cosmetic itself and/or
to impart colour to the skin (or its appendages) of users of decorative cosmetic
products. The colouring agents intended for colouring hair are considered as other
types of cosmetic agents under the name of hair dyes, and although there are some
colouring agents that are also used to colour hair, they will not be considered here as
such, since all hair dyes are reviewed in Section 4.3.

Colouring agents are classified in two main groups: colorants (or dyes) and pigments.

Colorants are soluble (in water or in oil) synthetic organic colouring agents. They are
used to colour cosmetic products such as skin care or toiletries, among others.
Meanwhile, pig-ments are insoluble colouring agents, which when used, remain in the
form of crystals or particles.

They are divided into mineral and organic pigments, and are used in make-up,for
example, and also for the making cosmetics, like toothpastes, soaps and beauty masks.

A detailed classification of these groups is described further on.

On the other hand, colouring agents can be of natural origin or obtained through a
syn-thesis procedure.

In the event of natural origin, they can be obtained from minerals, plants or animals.

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2.1.Hydrosoluble colorants:

These colorants are used to colour mixtures in lotions, perfumes, emulsions, soaps and
bath products, where a covering effect is not necessary.

These are molecules which con-tain one or more water-soluble groups such as
sulfonic (SO3 Na+) or carboxylic (COONa+) moieties.

These colorants are very sensitive to pH, UV rays, as well as to oxidative or redactor
chemicals.

Examples of water-soluble colorants are: carminic acid, caramel, FD&C Yellow No.
5, FD&C Blue No. 1, D&C Orange No. 4, D&C Red No. 33, FD&C Red No. 40.

2.2.Liposoluble colorants:

These colorants are used to colour anhydrous mixtures where concealing is not
necessary (e.g. tanning oils, bath oils, sticks, etc.).

These molecules do not contain water-soluble groups and their stability in oil rarely
goes beyond a few grams per litre.

They are also sensitive to UV radiation Examples of liposoluble colorants are

-carotene, D&C Red No. 17, D&C Yellow No.11, D&C Green No. 6 and D&C
Orange No. 5 among others.

3.Pigments:

A pigment is a material that changes the color of reflected or transmitted light as the
result of wavelength-selective absorption.

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3.1.Mineral pigments:

Mineral pigments are more resistant to light than organic colorants and they are also
more opaque but less shiny.

Different compounds can be found within this group. Some examples are described
below.

Among others, we can find iron oxides, which offer excellent stability and are the

most widely mineral pigments in make-up. There are three basic shades of iron
oxides:

yellow (which corresponds to hydrated ferrous oxide, i.e. FeO · nH2O), red (which is
attrib-uted to ferric oxide, i.e. Fe2O3) and black (which is a mixture of both iron
oxides).

Chromium oxides are also employed in decorative cosmetics. Chromium oxide greens

(Cr2O3) and chromium hydroxide greens (Cr2O3 · 2H2O) are typical mineral
pigments with excellent light fastness, heat stability and bleed resistance. They also
offer a high covering capacity, but their colour-giving power is weak.

Another inorganic pigment is Manganese Violet, which is a very bright colour.

Chemically it is MnNH4P2O7. It is very stable to light and organic solvents.

Titanium dioxide (TiO2) is a white pigment, with high coverage that offers excellent
sta-bility to heat and light. It is probably the most frequently used white pigment.

3.2.Organic pigments:
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There are three types of organic pigments: lakes, toners and true pigments.

Lakes are water-soluble dyes that are absorbed into insoluble substrates by means of
Van der Waals forces. They give dazzling shades although they have moderate
coveringcapacity. Their stability is weak in the face of light and chemical agents;
however, they offer good heat stability.

These pigments are widely used in lipsticks and nail lacquers. When used, the
preparation procedure is attained by absorption of a hydrosoluble colorant on an
insoluble substrate. The most commonly used substrates are hydrated aluminium,
titanium dioxide and aluminium benzoate, among others.

In the event of toners, they are water-soluble dyes that are precipitated as metal salts.
They differ from lakes, where there is absorption on a substrate. The most used metals
are calcium and barium.

Finally, true pigments are pigments that based on their chemistry, precipitate back to
they are made from. They are insoluble compounds which contain no metal ions.
Examples of which are D&C Red No. 36 and D&C Red No. 30.

A pearl effect can also be obtained by using appropriate pigments. They are the so
called pearlescents. Pearlescent pigments reflect and transmit light by their
transparency.

The pearlescent effect of a pigment is obtained by superpositioning plates of

transparent material and different refractive indexes. This structure allows the
reflection of part of the incident light and transmits the remainder to the plates below.

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Summary
Decorative cosmetics are principally used to beautify or cover minor, visible
imperfec-tions Colouring agents are added to cosmetics in order to colour the
cosmetic itself and/or to impart colour to the skin (or its appendages) of users of
decorative cosmetic products Colouring agents are classified in two main groups:
colorants (or dyes) and pigments

Hydrosoluble colorants:

These colorants are used to colour mixtures in lotions, perfumes, emulsions, soaps and
bath products, where a covering effect is not necessary Mineral pigments are more
resistant to light than organic colorants and they are also more opaque but less shiny.

Different compounds can be found within this group. Some examples are described
below.

Among others, we can find iron oxides, which offer excellent stability and are the

most widely mineral pigments in make-up

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References

[1] Salvador, A., & Chisvert, A. (Eds.). (2011). Analysis of cosmetic products.
Elsevier.

[2] Guerra, Eugenia, et al. "Determination of dyes in cosmetic products by micro-

matrix solid phase dispersion and liquid chromatography coupled to tandem mass
spectrometry." Journal of Chromatography A 1415 (2015): 27-37.

[3] da Silva, Jaime A. Teixeira, et al. "Bixa orellana L.(achiote) tissue culture: a
review." In Vitro Cellular & Developmental Biology-Plant 55.3 (2019): 231-241.

[4]] Abellán, Eliseo F. González, and Desirée Martínez Pérez. "Quality control of
cosmetic products: Specific legislation on ingredients." Analysis of Cosmetic
Products. Elsevier, 2018. 39-53.

[5] de Andrade, Francisca Ivani, et al. "Determination of synthetic food dyes in

commercial soft drinks by TLC and ion-pair HPLC." Food chemistry 157 (2014): 193-
198.

[6] book of the department

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