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Brake Operation&Adjustment

This document provides instructions for adjusting the brakes on an AL-KO braking system. The key steps include: 1) Ensuring the towing shaft is fully forward and the handbrake is fully off. 2) Jacking up one side of the caravan and accessing the starwheel adjuster. 3) Adjusting the starwheel until slight resistance is felt and the wheel turns freely. 4) Checking the brake cable adjustment between 5-8mm when pulled out.

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117 views

Brake Operation&Adjustment

This document provides instructions for adjusting the brakes on an AL-KO braking system. The key steps include: 1) Ensuring the towing shaft is fully forward and the handbrake is fully off. 2) Jacking up one side of the caravan and accessing the starwheel adjuster. 3) Adjusting the starwheel until slight resistance is felt and the wheel turns freely. 4) Checking the brake cable adjustment between 5-8mm when pulled out.

Uploaded by

snillerdk
Copyright
© Attribution Non-Commercial (BY-NC)
We take content rights seriously. If you suspect this is your content, claim it here.
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Download as PDF, TXT or read online on Scribd
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Brake Adjustment

Service Datasheet 8

Fig. 1

AL-KO BRAKING SYSTEM ADJUSTMENT

1. Ensure the towing shaft with coupling head is pulled FULLY FORWARD. (Fig. 1).

2. Release the handbrake to the FULLY OFF position. If the handbrake will not go down the whole way because of the fairing or
any other obstruction; then the fairing must be cut away and/or the obstruction removed to achieve this desired position. It will
not be possible to set up the braking system properly when the handbrake is not in the FULLY OFF position. (Fig. 1).

3. Jack up one side of the caravan, using the AL-KO Side Lift Jack System. (see Jack Operating Instructions).

4. Remove the inner plastic bung from the backplate to expose the “starwheel” adjuster access. (Figs. 1 & 2).

5. ALWAYS rotating the road wheel in the forward direction - NEVER backwards; adjust the starwheel with a suitable screwdriver,
in the direction of the arrow embossed on the backplate until there is resistance in the wheel rotation. (Fig. 2).

6. Slacken off the starwheel adjuster until the road wheel turns freely in the FORWARD direction. (Fig. 2).

7. Check the adjustment at the end of the brake cable where it is secured to the abutment (bracket), welded to the centre of the
axle. When the inner cable is pulled out it should extend between 5 and 8 mm. (Fig. 3). (On tandem axles a double abutment
(bracket) is fitted to the front axle ONLY).

8. Repeat for other wheel or wheels.

9. On tandem axles the brake cables from the rear axle should pass over this axle and cross over each other, before being
connected to the abutment (bracket) on the front axle.

10. Ensure the balance bar (compensator) is being pulled evenly (Figs.1 & 3). Excessive movement to this bar (double on
tandem axles) would indicate possible incorrect adjustment (if appropriate, repeat step No. 7 - Fig. 3).

11. Check the brake rod support bracket, (fixed to the floor) IS supporting the brake rod evenly. The brake rod MUST ALWAYS run
straight, NEVER bent or curved under any fittings. On tandem axles, using the double balance bar, a brake rod support tube (Part
No. 228827) MUST ALWAYS be fitted on the end of the brake rod, passing through the centre aperture on the abutment.

12. Remove the slack in the brake rod by adjusting the long ball nut, rear of the balance bar, ensuring the overrun lever makes
contact with the end of the towing shaft. Note! Over adjustment to the long ball nut (Fig. 3/Item 2) could induce movement of the
inner brake cable, reducing the effective clearance of the brake shoes. If the overrun lever will not make contact, it is possible the
two lock nuts, forward of the spring cylinder, are incorrectly adjusted. Loosen the nuts and adjust brake rod as above (Figs. 1 &
3).
13. Adjust the two locking nuts, forward of the spring cylinder (Fig. 1), (on some chassis
a single Nyloc nut is used) to give 1 mm of clearance on the spring cylinder. This
cylinder (the energy store for the handbrake operation) must be able to rotate ONLY, not
slide on the brake rod. (Fig. 3). (If the overrun assembly is fitted with a gas strut
handbrake then no spring cylinder is fitted - therefore ignore this paragraph).

14. CORRECT ADJUSTMENT of the linkage is checked by operating the handbrake


lever so that when the second or third tooth is engaged, a slight braking force is felt on
the road wheels.

15. OVER ADJUSTMENT of either the wheel brakes or linkages, will result in difficult
reversing causing the wheels to “lock-up”.

16. When parking, the handbrake lever MUST ALWAYS be engaged into the fully upright
position (90°). This is to compress the spring within the spring cylinder and thereby
create an energy store which will automatically engage the brakes further should the
caravan move. If difficulty is experienced in this operation, try easing the caravan
backwards with one hand while engaging the handbrake fully with the other. This
manoeuvre should not be attempted on a rearwards facing slope. In this case wheel
chocks should be used combined with the handbrake. See page 12/13 for all handbrake Fig. 2
operations.

17. Finally, if the road wheels have been removed, re-tighten using a calibrated Torque
Wrench to 88 Nm (65 lbs/ft) - on all M12 wheel bolts - in sequence, i.e. North, South,
East, West NOT clock or anti-clockwise (refers to steel rims only). Remember to over-
tighten is just as dangerous as to under-tighten, as this can distort the wheel rims.
Avoid the use of power wrenches.

IMPORTANT - The torque settings should be rechecked after 50 Km.


Wheel bolts should NEVER be lubricated

Fig. 3

AL-KO Kober Ltd, South Warwickshire Business Park, Kineton Road, Southam, Warwickshire, CV47 0AL
Iss. 1 06/04
Tel: 01926 818500 Fax: 01926 818562

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