MP4 4
MP4 4
Fill up some gaps (red circles) with styrene plate and drill all the holes as shown as bolts in place. The left
side is the state after modification.
2. Add styrene plate to strengthen the red circles areas and glue PE part D-24 as well.
3. Glue on some PE parts as shown and drill all the holes for bolts in place.
8. When making the rear suspension, don’t glue C1 and C2 as they should be movable.
9. These are important supporting parts for front suspension. S3 and metal bar 2 should be glue tightly and
30mm in length.
10. Adjust the height of F1 and F2 by bending the PE D-24 inward. The height is 17mm and both side with same
height.
11. Cutting out Tamiya’s part D8 into three pieces as shown and brass lines are added at the joins.
12. Radiator and air intake connected with brass line help.
13. The edges are trimmed out.
14. Pay more care when sanding this resin part. PE parts are added before painting.
15. Other small resin parts are also ready.
20. Sanding the surface after the clear coating is dried hard enough.
21. This is the state after polishing.
26. Rear wing done and PE part A18 is also glued on.
27. Painted with semi-gloss black.
32. Carefully scraping out the paint in the middle ring with a hobby knife to leave the metal nature.
33. Engine block is painted then glue on some PE parts in place.
34. Painting the electronic connectors: apply Mr. Hobby SM-02 with gloss black base, then washing with X-18.
35. Putting the small parts inside the B6 part.
36. Connecting the parts B6 and B5 and inserting parts R7 and P7 with small black wire.
37. Other connectors painting: gloss black -> SM-06 -> clear blue/red.
38. Painting the 0.2mm metal wire as spark plug wire. Place the parts K7 and K8 and connecting them with
0.3mm solder line.
39. Placing the B6 and B5 on the engine top.
46. Applying H-93 as the way before. Then add some brown crayon powder to enhance the contrast effect at
different points.
47. The finishing result.
52. more…
53. Paint the hose clamp with a clear red marker pen.
56. Painting the solder lines in flat black. Linking the shrink tubes with connectors and wiring.
57. Putting electronic parts, connectors and wiring on one side.
64. Undertray wooden texture painting: desert yellow as base, then irregular spray with dark brown, light brown
and black. Sanding with rough sand paper to make the scratch pattern.
65. Sticking metal foil on the base of the undertray as shown.
66. Applied carbon fiber decals on the upper part for the turbo air intakes, with a few coats of smoke paint
sprayed.
67. 0.8mm brass pipe is used for steering of the front suspension.
68. Making of the brake disc central part, cut a solder line into small sections and glue them around the PE parts
G1 and G2.
69. Cutting the raised portion with the PE part E4 putting over as template.
70. Sanding the top to make it flat and then take out the part E4.
71. Making 4 sets by the same way and glue the parts E1.
72. Adding the PE E5/E6 along the rim of the brake disc.
73. Painting with brake disc with X-10+XF-1 and the rim is painted with XF-53.
74. Putting the previous made central part and axle to the brake disc.
75. Brake callipers painting: X-11+X-12+XF-1. Brake pad: XF-53.
76. Painting the tyre marking with the help of the PE template. Spraying with light grey then white.
77. Making a calibrator inside the cockpit.
78. Making the seat belt with and fabric, PE buckle and small metal bar.
79. Painting the seat: X-1+X11, then coated with smoke.
80. Sticking the black sticker stripes on the seat. Gently heat with a hair dryer to make the stripes sticking tighter.
81. Steering wheel components.
82. Painting the wheel: XF-1 then flat clear. Middle part: X-18.
83. Steering wheel and dashboard finished.
84. The carbon fiber effect of the brake disc air ducts is made by spraying over a mesh.
85. Same way applying to the gear-shift lever room.