Fibers and Polymers 2010, Vol.11, No.3, 481-486 DOI 10.

1007/s12221-010-0481-2

A Study of the Effectiveness of Post-treatment after

Hair Straightening Process
*
C. W. M. Yuen, C. W. Kan , S. Y. Cheng, and P. Y. Lau

Institute of Textiles and Clothing, The Hong Kong Polytechnic University, Hung Hom, Kowloon, Hong Kong, China
(Received May 26, 2009; Accepted November 26, 2009)

Abstract: In order to minimise the hair damage due to hair straightening process, post-treatment is recommended to protect
the damaged hair from further depreciation and breakage. However, few reported quantitatively about the effectiveness of
post-treatment after hair straightening process. Therefore, the aim of this paper will investigate the effectiveness of post-
treatment methods for chemically straightened hairs. The effectiveness will be evaluated through different analytical methods
such as scanning electron microscopy (SEM), diffuse reflectance spectrophotometry, tensile strength test and urea bisulphite
solubility test for the properties related to morphological structure, hair colour change, tensile strength as well as chemical
damage respectively. From the findings of the instrumental results, it was obvious that the application of post-treatments
would improve the lustre of the damaged hair by giving higher value in lightness when compared with the raw hair control
sample. Furthermore, the strength property of the post-treated hair increased when compared with the chemically
straightened hair. This was due to the fact that the film-forming agents of conditioning products formed a protective layer and
smooth surface on the fibre surface.
Keywords: Hair, Straightening, Post-treatment, Hair damage

Introduction tensile strength as well as chemical damage respectively.

Hair, as a type of keratin fibre, is a distinctive feature of Experimental
body image and it functions as a physical barrier between us
and the environment. However, it is unpreventable that hair Hair Samples
receives a certain degree of damage by daily grooming Virgin dark brown hair samples in tress form, approximately
behaviour, environmental exposure and chemical treatment 4±0.1 g with 20±1 cm in length, were prepared parallel and
for hair cosmetic products [1-4]. For instance, hair grey hair was removed so as to obtain more uniform and
straightening process is recently becoming prevailing fashion accurate results. The hair samples were washed by shampoo
all over the world so as to provide an alternative hairstyle. followed by conditioner to remove the impurities and dried
The hair straightening process normally requires the use of at room temperature. The washed hair samples were
chemical for denaturalising or breaking down of disulphide conditioned at 21±1 oC and relative humidity of 65±2 % for
bonds or cystine disulphur linkages of hair fibres which will 24 h prior to any treatment.
cause damage to the treated hair in both external and internal
changes [3-5]. In our previous paper [6], different hair Straightening Treatment of Hair Samples
straightening conditions were simulated and their effects on In order to deliver the hair straightening effect, commercial
hair damages were evaluated and discussed quantitatively. straightening agent (comprising ammonium thioglycolate
The results indicated that hair fibres were damaged to and voluminous free ammonia) and neutralisation agent
different extent depending on the treatment conditions [6]. In (containing hydrogen peroxide in acidic medium) (provided
order to minimise the hair damage and its effect on hair fibre by Wella) were used. Apart from that, a ceramic straightener
properties, post-treatment is recommended to protect the was used for the straightening motion and it was used for
damaged hair from further depreciation and breakage. stretching different tresses of hair samples at specific
However, few reported quantitatively about the effectiveness temperatures, i.e. 140, 160, 180, and 200 ºC respectively. In
of post-treatment after hair straightening process. Therefore, this paper, a series of procedures were carried out to produce
the aim of this paper will investigate the effectiveness of several outcomes of straightening performance in order to
post-treatment methods for chemically straightened hairs. study the effect of hair damage. Hair samples, approximately
The effectiveness will be evaluated through different 4±0.1 g with 20±1 cm in length, were prepared. Table 1
analytical methods such as scanning electron microscopy
(SEM), diffuse reflectance spectrophotometry, tensile strength Table 1. Recipe for hair straightening treatment
test and urea bisulphite solubility test for the properties
related to morphological structure, hair colour change, Chemical Amount required (ml) Treatment time (min)
Straightening agent 4 20
*Corresponding author: [email protected] Neutralisation agent 4 20

481
482 Fibers and Polymers 2010, Vol.11, No.3 C. W. M. Yuen et al.

shows the recipe and condition of the straightening treatment. conditioned at 21±1 oC with relative humidity of 65±2 %
According to Table 1, 4 ml of straightening agent was for 24 h prior to further use.
applied to the corresponding hair samples, approximately 1- Post-treatment II
2 cm in width at a time. After combing the hair samples once The straightened hair specimens were immersed in the
with a large-toothed comb, the samples were hung in air Shampoo for 10, 20, or 30 min respectively and rinsed
without covering for a specified treatment time for 20 min. thoroughly with deionised water. The Conditioning Spray
After the specified treatment time, the hair samples were was applied onto the hair samples for 10 min. The resultant
combed again with a large-toothed comb and the respective post-treated hair samples were rinsed with deionised water for
samples were rinsed thoroughly with deionised water. In 10 min. Finally, the hair samples were air dried at room
addition, ceramic straightener at the temperature of 140, 160, temperature and finally conditioned at 21±1 oC and relative
180, and 200 ºC respectively was used for sliding through the humidity of 65±2 % for 24 h prior to further use.
hair sample twice for evaluating the effect of straightening The effect of post-treatment on the degrees of both
temperature. After treating with straightening agent, the physical and chemical damages to the corresponding hair
same amount of neutralisation agent was applied onto the samples was consequently evaluated.
hair samples and waited for 20 min for neutralisation.
Finally, the hair samples were rinsed thoroughly with Surface Morphology
deionised water and then dried at room temperature. The The surface images of the hair samples were investigated
straightened hair samples were then conditioned at 21±1 oC by a Leica Stereoscan 440 scanning electron microscope
with relative humidity of 65±2 % for 24 h prior to post- (SEM) with magnification of ×10,000.
treatment.
Lightness Difference
Post-treatment of Straightened Hair Samples Diffuse reflectance spectrophotometry was used to
The straightened hair samples were subjected to two post- investigate the change in glossiness, in term of lightness
treatment processes. Commercial products for post-treating difference, of hair samples after the corresponding post-
hair (provided by Wella) include, (i) Straight Saver (contains treatment process. In this assessment, GretaMacbeth Colour-
mainly cetrimonium chloride) and (ii) Shampoo (contains Eye 7000A was used for measuring the values of lightness
sodium lauryl ether sulphate, tocophenyl acetate and detergent), difference, ∆L*, under the CIE LAB System with 10 o
together with Conditioning Spray (contains behentrimonium observer and illuminant D65. The value of ∆L* was used for
chloride) were used for simulating the post-treatment comparing changes in lightness on hair fibre surface. The
processes after hair straightening. In this experiment, two lightness difference was generated based on the comparison
separate sets of post-treated hair samples were prepared between the straightened hair samples and the corresponding
according to the recipe shown in Table 2. post-treated hair samples in order to study the changes in
Post-treatment I glossiness or lustre on hair fibre surface. Prior to the
The straightened hair samples were immersed in the lightness measurement, the hair samples were essentially
Straight Saver for 5, 10, or 15 min respectively and were undergone a conditioning process at 21±1 oC and relative
then rinsed thoroughly with deionised water. The humidity of 65±2 % for 24 h. All the hair samples were then
Conditioning Spray was applied onto the corresponding hair mounted accordingly to fully cover the aperture so as to
samples for 10 min. The post-treated hair samples were prevent the leakage of any light rays during assessment. In
rinsed with deionised water for 10 min. The hair samples this experiment, four measurements were taken to provide
were then air dried at room temperature and finally the average value in lightness difference of each sample.

Table 2. Recipe of post-treatment Solubility of Hair

The urea-bisulphite solubility (UB%) of the hair samples
Post-treatment I was determined according to BS 3584: 1989.
Product name Volume required Post-treatment time
(ml) (min) Tensile Strength Test
Straight saver 4 5, 10, 15 The tensile strength of the hair samples was measured by
Conditioning spray 4 10 Instron 4411 with a 5 N load cell operating at 100 mm/min
Post-treatment II constant speed using a sample holder as shown in Figure 1.
Prior to assessment, each individual hair fibre was mounted
Product name Volume required Post-treatment time with a sample holder. Before the sample mounting process,
(ml) (min) it was necessary to measure the fibre diameter of each
Shampoo 4 10, 20, 30 individual hair due to the fibre variation ranging from 50 to
Conditioning spray 4 10 100 µm in diameter [7]. In general, coarser fibres resist
Post-treatment after Hair Straightening Process Fibers and Polymers 2010, Vol.11, No.3 483

Figure 2. Control hair sample.

Figure 1. Sample preparation for tensile strength test.

higher breaking loads than those of thin hair fibres.

Therefore, the ratio of fibre strength to fibre diameter was
taken under consideration.
Results and Discussion

Scanning Electron Microscopy (SEM) Figure 3. Straightened hair sample.

The SEM images of the surface change of the post-treated
hair samples and the results were shown in Figures 2 to 5.
For the raw hair sample (control hair sample), it was obvious
that the cuticular scales on the hair surface were clearly seen
and aligned on the surface without any damages as shown in
Figure 2.
During the straightening process, the surfaces of hair
fibres were damaged. Figure 3 indicates that the hair scales
were flattened and dissolved due to the reaction with
alkaline straightening agent and the pressing action under
thermal effect of the straightening process by ceramic
straightener.
However, when the Straight Saver was coated on the Hair sample post-treated with straight saver.
straightened hair fibre, it was observed that chemicals were Figure 4.

deposited on the fibre surface as shown in Figure 4. The

chemicals were located at the weaker points of fibres where
the scales were dissolved or damaged. The coating will
prevent further damage to hair.
Moreover, Conditioning Spray was applied onto the hair
fibre surface after post-treated with Straighter Saver as
shown in Figure 5. The post treatment agents of Straight
Saver and Conditioning Sprayer were selected to perform in
a manner that the hair fibres were coated to prevent the
external invasion such as daily grooming actions from
combing and brushing, and friction force from directional
friction effect between hair fibres [8,9]. Based on the SEM
picture as shown in Figure 5, it was revealed that the Straight Figure 5. Hair sample post-treated with straight saver followed by
Saver and Conditioning Spray would cover the hair fibre conditioning spray.
484 Fibers and Polymers 2010, Vol.11, No.3 C. W. M. Yuen et al.

samples. The reason is that during the hair straightening

process, the covalently bound surface lipids were removed
and the hair surface was changed from hydrophobic to
hydrophilic allowing the interaction of water and styling
products to be coated on the surface [1,10].
Lightness Difference

Hair appearance is a significant indicator to reflect the

state and condition of hair. Shine is one of the visual aspects
closely related to the ‘health’ of hair. Therefore, the
improvement in glossiness is taken under consideration to Lightness results (∆L*) of straightened hair samples after
improve the performance of damaged hair by straightening Figure 7.

post-treatment with straight saver and conditioning spray; ( ◆ )

process. Diffuse reflectance spectrophotometry was used for without heat, ( ■ ) treated under 140 oC, ( ▲ ) treated under
glossiness evaluation (measured in term of ∆ ) in this *
L
160 oC, ( × ) treated under 180 oC, and ( × ) treated under
paper. The greater the ∆ value, the more will be the
*
L
200 oC.
increment in glossiness. Figure 6 shows that the majority of
straightened hair samples after normal shampooing treatment
provided positive ∆ value when compared with that of the
L
*
glossiness on the cuticular surface. As a result, the damaged
corresponding straightened hair specimens. The increment hair surface caused by straightening would have a smooth
and reduction of the ∆ value represented the increment
L
*
surface on light reflection giving a glossy appearance.
and reduction of hair glossiness respectively. In addition, Among different straightening conditions followed by post-
higher straightening temperature, i.e. 180 and 200 C, produced
o
treatment with Shampoo and Conditioning Spray, the
a relatively obvious improvement in lustre by giving greater straightening temperature of 160 C with post-treatment time
o

∆ value when compared with those hair samples treated

L
*
20 min resulted the least effect in glossy appearance, i.e.
with either low straightening temperature, i.e. 140 and ∆ =0.
L
*

160 C, or without heat. It was because the over-heating of

o
Figure 7 indicates the effect of the post-treatment of
straightening action caused yellowing of fibres [11,12]. applying Straight Saver and Conditioning Spray. It was
Therefore, when normal shampooing was applied, the found that the longer duration of the post-treatment process
ingredient, tocophenyl acetate (also known as Vitamin E led to the gradual increase of the lightness when compared
acetate), inside the Shampoo will be slowly hydrolysed with the raw hair control sample. Moreover, it was noted that
when it was applied and absorbed by hair. As the the straightened hair samples treated with straightening
straightened hair appeared dull in hair surface, the ingredient temperatures in the range 140 to 180 C, had greater
o

will enrich the hair body and compensate the loss in protein improvement in lustre when compared with those samples
through cracks created by the straightening treatment. In treated at 200 C or without heat after the application of
o

addition, the behentrimonium chloride in Conditioning Straight Saver and Conditioning Spray. The yellowing effect
Spray will deposit on the hair surface providing a protective of fibres resulted from high straightening temperature was
layer which will contribute to the improvement in the overcome by the film-forming agent of hair conditioning
products. It was obvious that the film-forming agent
increased the hair lustre by increasing the adherence of
cuticular scale to the hair shaft and filling in the space
between the cuticular defects. Based on the results, the
straightening temperature of 160 C gave the best glossiness
o

for the post-treatment process with Straight Saver and

Conditioning Spray.
Solubility of Hair

The aim of the chemical straightening treatment is to

eliminate the curls or waves of hair fibres which refers to the
cleavage of disulphide bonds to allow hair to relax and to be
Figure 6. Lightness results (∆L*) of straightened hair samples after pulled straight [1]. When the straightening agent was
post-treatment with shampoo and conditioning spray; ( ◆ ) applied, the chemical process occurs. The ammonium
without heat, ( ■ ) treated under 140 oC, ( ▲ ) treated under thioglycolate and the free ammonia in the straightening
160 oC, ( × ) treated under 180 oC, and ( × ) treated under agent penetrate into the cortex and effectively reduce the
200 oC. cystine disulphide bonds in the hair cortex for structural
Post-treatment after Hair Straightening Process Fibers and Polymers 2010, Vol.11, No.3 485

arrangement. Hence the position of disulphide bonds Spray, as shown in Figure 5, formed a thin film on the hair
between new polypeptide keratins are restructured through surface, the hair fibre was then protected and hence reduced
mechanically and repeatedly straightening actions by using urea-bisulphite solubility values. When different straightening
the ceramic straightener during the reducing stage. After temperatures were compared, 160 oC is the best straightening
sufficient treatment time, new bonds are consolidated with temperature with minimised hair damage.
the use of oxidising agent for neutralisation [1,13]. During
the hair straightening process, under the influence of Tensile Strength Test

chemical and thermal effects, denaturation of the structural After specific post-treatment process, the tensile strength
disulphide bonds of the hair would occur and may have the of the corresponding hair sample was analysed and the
potential to cause significant damage to the hair. It was results are shown in Figure 9. It was found that the increase
indicated that the content of cystine disulphide linkages in in straightening temperature did produce lower average
human fibre was the crucial factor in evaluating the degree strength due to the breakage of disulphide bonds in hair
of internal hair damage. The conversion of cystine link cortex right after the application of alkaline straightening
(-CH2-S-S-CH2-) to stable lanthionine link (-CH2-S-CH2-) agent. Cortex contributes the greatest mass of hair shaft and
was the typical phenomenon of the analysis of internal comprises of closely packed spindle-shaped cells with their
damage [12,14]. Therefore, the urea bisulphite solubility boundaries separated by a narrow gap which contains a
(UB%) was used for evaluation the hair damage in which proteinaceous intercellular lamella to cement the cells
decrease in the value of UB% indicates the presence of together. It contributes to the mechanical properties of the
alkaline damage due to the formation of lanthionine linkages hair fibre. In other words, the decrease in tensile strength of
in the corresponding hair samples. Figure 8 shows the UB% hair correlated to the damage of cortex. The application of
of three different sets of samples, i.e. (i) the straightened hair post-treatment products will improve the strength of fibres
treated with 20 treatment minutes, (ii) the corresponding due to the existence of the film-forming agents inside the
straightened hair after Straight Saver and Conditioning post-treatment products. The post-treatment of hair would
Spray post-treatment and (iii) the corresponding straightened then increase the average tensile strength of differently
hair after Shampoo and Conditioning Spray post-treatment, straightened hair samples. With the use of the Straight Saver,
under different straightening temperature. It was observed the main ingredient cetrimonium chloride would be used for
generally that the UB% decreased with the increased promoting the antiseptic effects to the hair. Since the surface
straightening temperature. However, the post-treatments of hair shaft is often abraded by daily grooming habit and
could reduce the UB% when compared with the untreated any other external environmental factors. After the straightening
hair samples. Since the Straight Saver and Conditioning treatment, the straightened hair fibres were weakened in
resisting the external static forces as those hair strands
became fragile. When the damaged cuticular scales received
frictional force, the hair fibres could not be able to resist

Figure 8. Urea bisulphate solubility result of different hair Figure 9. Tensile strength result of post-treated hair samples;
samples; ( ◆ ) straightened hair sample, ( ■ ) straightened hair ( ◆ ) straightened hair sample, ( ■ ) straightened hair sample
sample post-treated with straight saver and conditioning spray, and post-treated with straight saver and conditioning spray, and ( ▲ )
( ▲ ) straightened hair sample post-treated with shampoo and straightened hair sample post-treated with shampoo and conditioning
conditioning spray. spray.
486 Fibers and Polymers 2010, Vol.11, No.3 C. W. M. Yuen et al.

static charges and thus the performance of hair might be treated hair increased when compared with the chemically
even deteriorated. Hence, the application of cetrimonium straightened hair. This was due to the fact that the film-
chloride would minimised the effect of static frictional force forming agents of conditioning products formed a protective
on the damaged hair by depositing a layer of positively layer and smooth surface on the fibre surface.
charges ions on the fibre surface and increase the fibre
strength correspondingly [15,16]. On the other hand, one of References
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