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National Textile Universit Y: Department of Fabric Manufacturing

This document discusses the effects of threads per inch (TPI) and yarn count on weaving performance and fabric properties. Three fabrics were woven with different picks per inch (PPI) and weft counts. It was found that too high of a cover factor affects weaving performance. The study also found that yarn crimp percentage and fabric strength are affected by changes in TPI and yarn count. In general, higher TPI increases fabric strength but beyond a certain point the gains are smaller. Finer yarn counts increase weft crimp and breakages while decreasing warp crimp. Weft count also impacts fabric extension and the crimp of both warp and weft yarns.

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231 views

National Textile Universit Y: Department of Fabric Manufacturing

This document discusses the effects of threads per inch (TPI) and yarn count on weaving performance and fabric properties. Three fabrics were woven with different picks per inch (PPI) and weft counts. It was found that too high of a cover factor affects weaving performance. The study also found that yarn crimp percentage and fabric strength are affected by changes in TPI and yarn count. In general, higher TPI increases fabric strength but beyond a certain point the gains are smaller. Finer yarn counts increase weft crimp and breakages while decreasing warp crimp. Weft count also impacts fabric extension and the crimp of both warp and weft yarns.

Uploaded by

asharwaqar
Copyright
© Attribution Non-Commercial (BY-NC)
We take content rights seriously. If you suspect this is your content, claim it here.
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Download as DOCX, PDF, TXT or read online on Scribd
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National Textile University

Department of Fabric Manufacturing


Textile Testing and Quality Control

Semester: 8th
Section: B

DESIGN LAB

M.YASIR KARIM
06-NTU-086

Submitted to: Mr. Sajid Hussain Sb


Abstract:
Threads per inch and yarn count are some of the most important parameters that
affect both weaving performance and fabric property. Experimental studies were
conducted by weaving fabrics with three different picks per inch (PPI) and weft
counts. The study shows that weaving performance is affected by the too high
cover factor. Cover factor was calculated by dividing the threads/inch by the
square root of the English cotton count and end breakage was taken as an
indication of weaving performance. It was observed that when the count as well as
threads/inch of one series of yarn changes the crimp% i.e. the consumption of both
series of yarns are affected. It was also observed that, as expected, when the
threads/inch increases the fabric strength also increases but at higher threads/inch
the gain in strength is relatively more.

Effect on Fabric Contraction (crimp):


Due to the interlacing of warp and weft threads a certain amount of waviness is
imparted to the warp and weft threads of a woven fabric. This waviness is called
crimp. A typical diagram of cross section of a plain woven fabric is shown; the
figure shows the formation of crimp of one series of yarns. Crimp is calculated by
straightening the wavy yarns and then using the formula shown below.
Crimp % = {(l – r) ÷ r} X 100
Where,
l = Length of straightened yarn (l)
r = Length of yarn in the fabric (30 cm)
Crimp is expressed as percentage and it vary from 2% to as high as 30% depending
on various parameters like threads/cm, Count of yarns, characteristics of raw
materials. In many cases the crimp% is used to calculate the quantity of yarns
required to produce a particular amount of fabric. Since crimp % varies widely and
is directly related to the yarn consumption, the information about crimp is a very
important parameter for calculating the cost of woven fabric and woven
merchandisers must have very good knowledge about this parameter.
As the cont of weft changes towards finer yarn the Weft Crimp increases, Here a
research table is given under which justify the conclusion.

Weft Count Warp Crimp Weft Crimp


Ne
28.5 Low High
20 Medium Medium
10 High Low

Effect of weft count on fabric extension %:

Weft Count Weft Breakages Warp Breakages


Ne
28.5 Low Low
20 Medium Medium
10 High High

With increasing both weft density (i.e. PPI) and weft count (i.e. diameter) fabric
extension increases. The reason for this may be individual weft yarn extension
apart from this the crimp is directly related to the extension of the fabric. In fact
fabric extension is summation of both yarn extension and corresponding crimp of
yarn in the fabric. This is the reason why extension of fabric is significantly greater
than that of corresponding extension of yarns.

Effect of weft count on yarn crimp:


Yarn crimp is significantly affected by the thread count and their pick density.
Also there is one thing that as the weft count decreases the warp crimp increases.
This is probably due to the fact that coarser weft yarn is more rigid, as a result the
warp yarns bend more than that occurred for finer weft yarn. Due to higher warp
crimp the consumption of warp yarn would be higher. Probably due to increase in
warp consumption the warp tension should go up. If warp tension increases the
warp crimp will decrease and weft crimp will increases. Thus, during weaving, a
cyclic increase and decrease of warp and weft crimp will take place though the
change would not be very high. However in relaxed fabric the case is different as
there is no warp tension.

Effect of weft count on weaving performance (warp and weft breakages):


As the cont of weft changes towards finer yarn the Weft Breakages increases and
same is in the case of Weft Density.
Here a research table is given under which justify the conclusion.

Weft Count Weft Breakages Warp Breakages


Ne
28.5 Medium Low
20 High Medium
10 Low Medium

Conclusion
The Fabric Contraction which is related to both P.P.I. and weft count and has
significant effect on the weaving performance. The weft count (linear density)
affect both warp and weft crimp significantly. It was also observed that (i)
remaining all other parameters same, the consumption of both warp and weft will
increase if the count/(diameter) of warp or weft or EPI or PPI increases. In fact a
theory can be proposed that the consumption of one series of yarn of the woven
fabric is directly related to the coarseness and density of the other series of yarn,
(ii) as the count (diameter) and density of weft increases the weft cover factor
increases for which weaving becomes more and more difficult. (iii) With increase
in PPI for the same weft count the fabric strength increases.

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