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Silk Beginner Tutorial

how to sew silk

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jade dubord
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100% found this document useful (1 vote)
208 views8 pages

Silk Beginner Tutorial

how to sew silk

Uploaded by

jade dubord
Copyright
© © All Rights Reserved
We take content rights seriously. If you suspect this is your content, claim it here.
Available Formats
Download as PDF, TXT or read online on Scribd
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This Is the Secret to Working With Luxurious Silk


By Linda Reynolds

Silk is the queen of all fabrics. And like any monarch, it tends to be both
worshiped and feared. Silk's reputation as a difficult fabric isn't
unfounded. It can be tricky to cut, stains easily and has a maddening
tendency to fray.
But if you understand silk's challenges going in — and have a few pro
tricks up your sleeve — you can easily master this fabric (rather than the
other way around).

Get ready to up your fabric game!

1. First Things First: Prewash


Water and silk were once sworn enemies (making pressing, especially
with steam, a real challenge). These days, though, many silk fabrics are
washable. And as wonky as it may sound, the best way to prevent water
marks is to wash the silk before you begin working with it.

While washing can slightly change the finish of some silks, I prefer that to
living in fear of the slightest splash or paying for dry cleaning.

2. Use Weights and a Rotary Cutter

Silk can be a moving target. To keep your fabric from slipping and sliding
all over the cutting board, use pattern weights to hold it down securely
while you cut. Using a rotary cutter with a fresh blade will also help keep
your fabric from shifting.

If you don't have a rotary cutter, your next best option is micro-serrated
shears. Unlike the blades on regular dressmaker shears, the serrated
blades grip the fabric and prevent it from slip-sliding away.

3. Pre-Test Fabric Pens


Be careful: Some fabric pens can bleed on or stain silk. Try out your pen
on a scrap before using it on the real deal.
Tailor's chalk can also spell trouble — pressing will melt away the color,
but may leave a stain in its place. Consider using tailor's tacks or, for
marks that will be concealed in seam allowances, a well-sharpened pencil.

4. Avoid Permanent Pinholes


Those little holes made by pins and needles never disappear in some
silks, like shantung, To avoid them, use silk pins and extra- or ultra-fine
glass head pins; these will glide smoothly through the fabric, preventing
any snags, and are less likely to leave behind any evidence they were
there.

Since ripping out a seam will leave marks, make sure the fit is right before
you cut out the first pattern piece. You might even want to hand-baste
seams in place using silk thread to check the fit before you do your final
stitching.

5. Check Your Machine


Volha
Flaxeco/Unsplash

Do a test run by stitching on a scrap of the silk fabric to check the tension,
needle quality and stitch length. If your machine skips stitches or the
needle snags the fabric, a new needle is in order. Or, do what I do: Start
with a fresh new #60 or #70 needle from the get-go.

6. Press Carefully
moodboard/Getty
Images/Cultura
RF

Ironing silk fabrics takes a bit of patience. Since some silks can't handle
steam, always do a test first. With many fine silks, like dupioni and
shantung, pressed creases can be difficult to fix. To avoid making any
permanent pressing mistakes, use a piece of silk organza as a pressing
cloth; it will protect the fabric and (since it's sheer) allow you to see what
you're doing and avoid missteps.

7. Avoid the Fray


Silk fabric has a tendency to fray — a lot! To save your silk (and your
sanity) do everything you can to stop fraying as soon as the pattern pieces
are cut. If you have a serger, overcast all the raw edges of each pattern
piece before you start assembling them.

No serger? No problem. Do what I do with most sheer or very lightweight


fabrics: Fuse narrow strips of fusible interfacing (⅛ -to-¼ inches wide)
along all the edges of each pattern piece. Yes, it's a time suck, but it's
worth it. Tons of fraying can really reduce your seam allowances.

8. Finish or Hide Your Seams


Because many silks are lightweight (and tend to fray; see above), pay
special attention to your seams. For an unlined garment, consider using
French, Hong Kong, flat or faux fell seams, or finish the seams with a good
overcast stitch.

You definitely need to respect your silk and treat it like a queen — but if
you do you will be royally rewarded!
January 29, 2019

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