Silk Beginner Tutorial
Silk Beginner Tutorial
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Silk is the queen of all fabrics. And like any monarch, it tends to be both
worshiped and feared. Silk's reputation as a difficult fabric isn't
unfounded. It can be tricky to cut, stains easily and has a maddening
tendency to fray.
But if you understand silk's challenges going in — and have a few pro
tricks up your sleeve — you can easily master this fabric (rather than the
other way around).
While washing can slightly change the finish of some silks, I prefer that to
living in fear of the slightest splash or paying for dry cleaning.
Silk can be a moving target. To keep your fabric from slipping and sliding
all over the cutting board, use pattern weights to hold it down securely
while you cut. Using a rotary cutter with a fresh blade will also help keep
your fabric from shifting.
If you don't have a rotary cutter, your next best option is micro-serrated
shears. Unlike the blades on regular dressmaker shears, the serrated
blades grip the fabric and prevent it from slip-sliding away.
Since ripping out a seam will leave marks, make sure the fit is right before
you cut out the first pattern piece. You might even want to hand-baste
seams in place using silk thread to check the fit before you do your final
stitching.
Do a test run by stitching on a scrap of the silk fabric to check the tension,
needle quality and stitch length. If your machine skips stitches or the
needle snags the fabric, a new needle is in order. Or, do what I do: Start
with a fresh new #60 or #70 needle from the get-go.
6. Press Carefully
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Images/Cultura
RF
Ironing silk fabrics takes a bit of patience. Since some silks can't handle
steam, always do a test first. With many fine silks, like dupioni and
shantung, pressed creases can be difficult to fix. To avoid making any
permanent pressing mistakes, use a piece of silk organza as a pressing
cloth; it will protect the fabric and (since it's sheer) allow you to see what
you're doing and avoid missteps.
You definitely need to respect your silk and treat it like a queen — but if
you do you will be royally rewarded!
January 29, 2019
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