Insulation Types
Insulation Types
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Types of Insulation
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Icynene plastic insulation blown into the walls of a home near Denver. Icynene fills cracks and crevices
and adheres to the framing.
Paul Norton, NREL
When insulating your home, you can choose from many types of insulation. To
choose the best type of insulation, you should first determine the following:
• Where you want or need to install/add insulation
• The recommended R-values for areas you want to insulate.
Installing Insulation
The maximum thermal performance or R-value of insulation is very dependent on
proper installation. Homeowners can install some types of insulation -- notably
blankets and materials that can be poured in place. (Liquid foam insulation
materials can be poured, but they require professional installation). Other types
require professional installation.
When hiring a professional certified installer:
• Obtain written cost estimates from several contractors for the R-value you need, and
don't be surprised if quoted prices for a given R-value installation vary by more than a
factor of two.
• Ask contractors about their air-sealing services and costs as well, because it’s a good
idea to seal air leaks before installing insulation.
To evaluate blanket installation, you can measure batt thickness and check for
gaps between batts as well as between batts and framing. In addition, inspect
insulation for a tight fit around building components that penetrate the
insulation, such as electrical boxes. To evaluate sprayed or blown-in types of
insulation, measure the depth of the insulation and check for gaps in coverage.
If you choose to install the insulation yourself, follow the manufacturer’s
instructions and safety precautions carefully and check local building and fire
codes. Do-it-yourself instructions are available from the fiberglass and mineral
wool trade group. The cellulose trade group recommends hiring a professional, but
if there isn’t a qualified installer in your area or you feel comfortable taking on the
job, you may be able to find guidance from manufacturers.
The table below provides an overview of most available insulation materials, how
they are installed, where they're typically installed, and their advantages.
Types of Insulation
WHERE INSTALLATION
TYPE MATERIAL ADVANTAGES
APPLICABLE METHODS
Fiberglass Unfinished
Do-it-yourself.
walls,
Mineral (rock or including
Blanket: slag) wool foundation Fitted between Suited for standard
batts and walls studs, joists, and stud and joist spacing
rolls beams. that is relatively free
Plastic fibers
from obstructions.
Floors and
Relatively inexpensive.
Natural fibers ceilings
Insulating cores
Foam board, to be Unfinished increases wall R-value.
placed on outside walls,
of wall (usually including Insulating outside of
new foundation concrete block wall
construction) or walls Require specialized
Concrete places mass inside
inside of wall skills
block conditioned space,
insulation (existing homes): New which can moderate
construction Insulating concrete indoor temperatures.
Some or major blocks are
and
manufacturers renovations sometimes stacked
insulating Autoclaved aerated
incorporate foam without mortar
concrete concrete and
beads or air into (dry-stacked) and
blocks Walls autoclaved cellular
the concrete mix surface bonded.
(insulating concrete masonry units
to increase R- concrete have 10 times the
values blocks) insulating value of
conventional concrete.
Interior
Unfinished applications: must
walls, be covered with 1/2-
including inch gypsum board High insulating value
Polystyrene foundation or other building- for relatively little
Foam walls code approved thickness.
board or material for fire
rigid foam Polyisocyanurate safety.
Floors and Can block thermal short
ceilings circuits when installed
Polyurethane Exterior continuously over
applications: must frames or joists.
Unvented low- be covered with
slope roofs weatherproof
facing.
Unfinished
Insulating walls, Insulation is literally
Installed as part of
concrete Foam boards or including built into the home's
the building
forms foam blocks foundation walls, creating high
structure.
(ICFs) walls for new thermal resistance.
construction
Enclosed
Cellulose existing wall
or open new Good for adding
Blown into place
wall cavities insulation to existing
Loose-fill using special
Fiberglass finished areas,
and equipment,
irregularly shaped
blown-in Unfinished sometimes poured
Mineral (rock or areas, and around
attic floors in.
slag) wool obstructions.
Other hard-to-
reach places
Do-it-yourself.
WHERE INSTALLATION
TYPE MATERIAL ADVANTAGES
APPLICABLE METHODS
Suitable for framing at
standard spacing.
Foil-faced kraft Foils, films, or
paper, plastic Unfinished papers fitted Bubble-form suitable if
Reflective
film, polyethylene walls, ceilings, between wood- framing is irregular or if
system
bubbles, or and floors frame studs, joists, obstructions are
cardboard rafters, and beams. present.
Most effective at
preventing downward
heat flow, effectiveness
depends on spacing.
Ducts in
unconditioned
spaces HVAC contractors
Rigid fabricate the
Fiberglass
fibrous or Other places insulation into Can withstand high
fiber requiring ducts either at their temperatures.
insulation Mineral (rock or shops or at the job
insulation
slag) wool sites.
that can
withstand
high
temperatures
Cementitious Enclosed
existing wall Applied using small Good for adding
Sprayed spray containers or insulation to existing
foam and Phenolic in larger quantities finished areas,
foamed- Open new wall as a pressure irregularly shaped
in-place cavities sprayed (foamed- areas, and around
Polyisocyanurate
in-place) product. obstructions.
Unfinished
Polyurethane attic floors
SIP-built houses
Foam board or Unfinished Construction provide superior and
Structural
liquid foam walls, ceilings, workers fit SIPs uniform insulation
insulated
insulation core floors, and together to form compared to more
panels
roofs for new walls and roof of a traditional construction
(SIPs)
Straw core construction house. methods; they also take
insulation less time to build.
Blanket: Batt and Roll Insulation
Blanket insulation -- the most common and widely available type of insulation --
comes in the form of batts or rolls. It consists of flexible fibers, most commonly
fiberglass. You also can find batts and rolls made from mineral (rock and slag)
wool, plastic fibers, and natural fibers, such as cotton and sheep's wool. Learn
more about these insulation materials.
Batts and rolls are available in widths suited to standard spacing of wall studs,
attic trusses or rafters, and floor joists: 2 inch x 4 inch walls can hold R-13 or R-15
batts; 2 inch x 6 inch walls can use R-19 or R-21 products. Continuous rolls can be
hand-cut and trimmed to fit. They are available with or without facings.
Manufacturers often attach a facing (such as kraft paper, foil-kraft paper, or vinyl)
to act as a vapor barrier and/or air barrier. Batts with a special flame-resistant
facing are available in various widths for basement walls and other places where
the insulation will be left exposed. A facing also helps facilitate fastening during
installation.
See the table below for an overview of standard and high-performance (medium-
density and high-density) fiberglass blankets and batts characteristics.
Fiberglass Batt Insulation Characteristics
This table is for comparison of fiberglass batts only. Determine actual thickness,
R-value, and cost from manufacturer and/or local building supplier.
3 1/2 11 12-16
3 5/8 13 15-20
3 1/2 (high density) 15 34-40
6 to 6 1/4 19 27-34
5 1/4 (high density) 21 33-39
8 to 8 1/2 25 37-45
8 (high density) 30 45-49
9 1/2 (standard) 30 39-43
12 38 55-60
Concrete Block Insulation
Concrete blocks are used to build home foundations and walls, and there are
several ways to insulate them. If the cores aren’t filled with steel and concrete for
structural reasons, they can be filled with insulation, which raises the average
wall R-value. Field studies and computer simulations have shown, however, that
core filling of any type offers little fuel savings, because heat is readily conducted
through the solid parts of the walls such as block webs and mortar joints.
It is more effective to install insulation over the surface of the blocks either on the
exterior or interior of the foundation walls. Placing insulation on the exterior has
the added advantage of containing the thermal mass of the blocks within the
conditioned space, which can moderate indoor temperatures.
Some manufacturers incorporate polystyrene beads into concrete blocks, while
others make concrete blocks that accommodate rigid foam inserts.
In the United States, two varieties of solid, precast autoclaved concrete masonry
units are now available: autoclaved aerated concrete (AAC) and autoclaved cellular
concrete (ACC). This material contains about 80% air by volume and has been
commonly used in Europe since the late 1940s. Autoclaved concrete has ten times
the insulating value of conventional concrete. The blocks are large, light, and
easily sawed, nailed, and shaped with ordinary tools. The material absorbs water
readily, so it requires protection from moisture. Precast ACC uses fly ash instead
of high-silica sand, which distinguishes it from AAC. Fly ash is a waste ash
produced from burning coal in electric power plants.
Hollow-core units made with a mix of concrete and wood chips are also available.
They are installed by stacking the units without using mortar (dry-stacking) and
filling the cores with concrete and structural steel. One potential problem with
this type of unit is that the wood is subject to the effects of moisture and insects.
Concrete block walls are typically insulated or built with insulating concrete
blocks during new home construction or major renovations. Block walls in
existing homes can be insulated from the inside. Go to insulation materials for
more information about the products commonly used to insulate concrete block.
Foam Board or Rigid Foam
Foam Board or Rigid Foam
Foam boards -- rigid panels of insulation -- can be used to insulate almost any
part of your home, from the roof down to the foundation. They are very effective in
exterior wall sheathing, interior sheathing for basement walls, and special
applications such as attic hatches. They provide good thermal resistance (up to 2
times greater than most other insulating materials of the same thickness), and
reduce heat conduction through structural elements, like wood and steel studs.
The most common types of materials used in making foam board include
polystyrene, polyisocyanurate (polyiso), and polyurethane.
Insulating Concrete Forms
Insulating concrete forms (ICFs) are basically forms for poured concrete walls,
which remain as part of the wall assembly. This system creates walls with a high
thermal resistance, typically about R-20. Even though ICF homes are constructed
using concrete, they look like traditional stick-built homes.
ICF systems consist of interconnected foam boards or interlocking, hollow-core
foam insulation blocks. Foam boards are fastened together using plastic ties.
Along with the foam boards, steel rods (rebar) can be added for reinforcement
before the concrete is poured. When using foam blocks, steel rods are often used
inside the hollow cores to strengthen the walls.
The foam webbing around the concrete-filled cores of blocks can provide easy
access for insects and groundwater. To help prevent these problems, some
manufacturers make insecticide-treated foam blocks and promote methods for
waterproofing them. Installing an ICF system requires an experienced contractor,
available through the Insulating Concrete Form Association.
Loose-Fill and Blown-In Insulation
Loose-fill insulation consists of small particles of fiber, foam, or other materials.
These small particles form an insulation material that can conform to any space
without disturbing structures or finishes. This ability to conform makes loose-fill
insulation well suited for retrofits and locations where it would be difficult to
insulation well suited for retrofits and locations where it would be difficult to
install other types of insulation.
The most common types of materials used for loose-fill insulation include
cellulose, fiberglass, and mineral (rock or slag) wool. All of these materials are
produced using recycled waste materials. Cellulose is primarily made from
recycled newsprint. Most fiberglass products contain 40% to 60% recycled glass.
Mineral wool is usually produced from 75% post-industrial recycled content. The
table below compares these three materials.
Recommended Specifications by Loose-Fill Insulation Material
For Attic Applications
OK for 1/2" drywall, 24" on center? No Yes No
OK for 1/2" drywall, 16" on center? Yes Yes Yes
OK for 5/8" drywall, 24" on center? Yes Yes Yes
Some less common loose-fill insulation materials include polystyrene beads and
vermiculite and perlite. Loose-fill insulation can be installed in either enclosed
cavities such as walls, or unenclosed spaces such as attics. Cellulose, fiberglass,
and rock wool are typically blown in by experienced installers skilled at achieving
the correct density and R-values. Polystyrene beads, vermiculite, and perlite are
typically poured.
The Federal Trade Commission has issued the “Trade Regulation Rule Concerning
the Labeling and Advertising of Home Insulation” (16 CFR Part 460). The
Commission issued the R-value Rule to prohibit, on an industry-wide basis,
specific unfair or deceptive acts or practices. The Rule requires that
manufacturers and others who sell home insulation determine and disclose each
products’ R-value and related information (e.g., thickness, coverage area per
package) on package labels and manufacturers’ fact sheets. R-value ratings vary
package) on package labels and manufacturers’ fact sheets. R-value ratings vary
among different types and forms of home insulations and among products of the
same type and form.
. For loose-fill insulation, each manufacturer must determine the R-value of its
product at settled density and create coverage charts showing the minimum
settled thickness, minimum weight per square foot, and coverage area per bag for
various total R-values.
This is because as the installed thickness of loose-fill insulation increases, its
settled density also increases due to compression of the insulation under its own
weight. Thus, the R-value of loose-fill insulation does not change proportionately
with thickness. The manufacturers’ coverage charts specify the bags of insulation
needed per square foot of coverage area; the maximum coverage area for one bag
of insulation; the minimum weight per square foot of the installed insulation; and
the initial and settled thickness of the installed insulation needed to achieve a
particular R-value.
Radiant Barriers and Reflective Insulation
Systems
Unlike most common insulation systems, which resist conductive and sometimes
convective heat flow, radiant barriers and reflective insulation work by reflecting
radiant heat. Radiant barriers are installed in homes -- usually in attics --
primarily to reduce summer heat gain, which helps lower cooling costs. Reflective
insulation incorporates radiant barriers -- typically highly reflective aluminum
foils -- into insulation systems that can include a variety of backings, such as
kraft paper, plastic film, polyethylene bubbles, or cardboard, as well as thermal
insulation materials.
Radiant heat travels in a straight line away from any surface and heats anything
solid that absorbs its energy. When the sun heats a roof, it's primarily the sun's
radiant energy that makes the roof hot. A large portion of this heat travels by
conduction through the roofing materials to the attic side of the roof. The hot roof
material then radiates its gained heat energy onto the cooler attic surfaces,
including the air ducts and the attic floor. A radiant barrier reduces the radiant
heat transfer from the underside of the roof to the other surfaces in the attic. To be
effective, it must face an air space.
Radiant barriers are more effective in hot climates, especially when cooling air
ducts are located in the attic. Some studies show that radiant barriers can lower
cooling costs 5% to 10% when used in a warm, sunny climate. The reduced heat
gain may even allow for a smaller air conditioning system. In cool climates,
however, it's usually more cost-effective to install more thermal insulation.
Rigid Fiber Board Insulation
Rigid fiber or fibrous board insulation consists of either fiberglass or mineral wool
material and is primarily used for insulating air ducts in homes. It is also used
when there's a need for insulation that can withstand high temperatures. These
products come in a range of thicknesses from 1 inch to 2.5 inches.
Installation in air ducts is usually done by HVAC contractors, who fabricate the
insulation at their shops or at job sites. On exterior duct surfaces, they can install
the insulation by impaling it on weld pins and securing with speed clips or
washers. They can also use special weld pins with integral-cupped head washers.
Unfaced boards can then be finished with reinforced insulating cement, canvas, or
weatherproof mastic. Faced boards can be installed in the same way, and the
joints between boards sealed with pressure-sensitive tape or glass fabric and
mastic.
Sprayed-Foam and Foamed-In-Place
Insulation
Liquid foam insulation materials can be sprayed, foamed-in-place, injected, or
poured. Foam-in-place insulation can be blown into walls, on attic surfaces, or
under floors to insulate and reduce air leakage. Some installations can yield a
higher R-value than traditional batt insulation for the same thickness, and can fill
even the smallest cavities, creating an effective air barrier. You can use the small
pressurized cans of foam-in-place insulation to reduce air leakage in holes and
cracks, such as window and door frames, and electrical and plumbing
penetrations.
Types of Foam Insulation
Today, most foam materials use foaming agents that don't use
chlorofluorocarbons (CFCs) or hydrochlorofluorocarbons (HCFCs), which are
harmful to the earth's ozone layer.
There are two types of foam-in-place insulation: closed-cell and open-cell. Both are
typically made with polyurethane. With closed-cell foam, the high-density cells are
closed and filled with a gas that helps the foam expand to fill the spaces around it.
Open-cell foam cells are not as dense and are filled with air, which gives the
insulation a spongy texture.
The type of insulation you should choose depends on how you will use it and on
your budget. While closed-cell foam has a greater R-value and provides stronger
resistance against moisture and air leakage, the material is also much denser
and is more expensive to install. Open-cell foam is lighter and less expensive but
should not be used below ground level where it could absorb water. Consult a
professional insulation installer to decide what type of insulation is best for you.
Available foam insulation materials include:
• Cementitious
• Phenolic
• Polyisocyanurate (polyiso)
• Polyurethane.
Some less common types include Icynene foam and Tripolymer foam. Icynene
foam can be either sprayed or injected, which makes it the most versatile. It also
has good resistance to both air and water intrusion. Tripolymer foam—a water-
soluble foam—is injected into wall cavities. It has excellent resistance to fire and
air intrusion.
Installation
Liquid foam insulation -- combined with a foaming agent -- can be applied using
small spray containers or in larger quantities as a pressure-sprayed (foamed-in-
place) product. Both types expand and harden as the mixture cures. They also
conform to the shape of the cavity, filling and sealing it thoroughly.
Slow-curing liquid foams are also available. These foams are designed to flow over
obstructions before expanding and curing, and they are often used for empty wall
cavities in existing buildings. There are also liquid foam materials that can be
poured from a container.
Installation of most types of liquid foam insulation requires special equipment
and certification and should be done by experienced installers. Following
installation, an approved thermal barrier equal in fire resistance to half-inch
gypsum board must cover all foam materials. Also, some building codes don't
recognize sprayed foam insulation as a vapor barrier, so installation might require
an additional vapor retarder.
Costs
Foam insulation products and installation usually cost more than traditional batt
insulation. However, foam insulation has higher R-values and forms an air barrier,
which can eliminate some of the other costs and tasks associated with
weatherizing a home, such as caulking, applying housewrap and vapor barrier,
and taping joints. When building a new home, this type of insulation can also help
reduce construction time and the number of specialized contractors, which saves
money.
Structural Insulated Panels
Structural insulated panels (SIPs) are prefabricated insulated structural elements
for use in building walls, ceilings, floors, and roofs. They provide superior and
uniform insulation compared to more traditional construction methods (stud or
"stick frame"), offering energy savings of 12% to 14%. When installed properly, SIPs
also result in a more airtight dwelling, which makes a house quieter and more
comfortable.
SIPs not only have high R-values but also high strength-to-weight ratios. A SIP
typically consists of 4- to 8-inch-thick foam board insulation sandwiched between
two sheets of oriented strand board (OSB) or other structural facing materials.
Manufacturers can usually customize the exterior and interior sheathing
materials to meet customer requirements. The facing is glued to the foam core,
and the panel is then either pressed or placed in a vacuum to bond the sheathing
and the panel is then either pressed or placed in a vacuum to bond the sheathing
and core together.
SIPs can be produced in various sizes or dimensions. Some manufacturers make
panels as large as 8 by 24 feet, which require a crane to erect.
The quality of SIP manufacturing is very important to the long life and
performance of the product. The panels must be glued, pressed, and cured
properly to ensure that they don't delaminate. The panels also must have smooth
surfaces and edges to prevent gaps from occurring when they're connected at the
job site. Before purchasing SIPs, ask manufacturers about their quality control
and testing procedures and read and compare warranties carefully. SIPs are
available with different insulating materials, usually polystyrene or
polyisocyanurate foam.
Installation
SIPs are made in a factory and shipped to job sites. Builders then connect them
together to construct a house. For an experienced builder, a SIPs home goes up
much more quickly than other homes, which saves time and money without
compromising quality. These savings can help offset the usually higher cost of
SIPs.
Many SIP manufacturers also offer "panelized housing kits." The builder need only
assemble the pre-cut pieces, and additional openings for doors and windows can
be cut with standard tools at the construction site.
When installed according to manufacturers' recommendations, SIPs meet all
building codes and pass the American Society for Testing and Materials (ASTM)
standards of safety. In buildings constructed of SIPs, fire investigators have found
that the panels held up well. For example, in one case a structure fire exceeded
1,000°F (538°C) in the ceiling areas and 200°F (93°C) near the floors, and most
wall panels and much of the ceiling remained intact. An examination of the wall
panels revealed that the foam core had neither melted nor delaminated from the
skins. In similar cases, a lack of oxygen seemingly caused the fire to extinguish
itself. The air supply in an airtight SIP home can be quickly consumed in a fire.
Areas of Concern
Fire safety is a concern, but when the interior of the SIP is covered with a fire-rated
material, such as gypsum board, it protects the facing and foam long enough to
give building occupants a chance to escape.
As in any house, insects and rodents can be a problem. In a few cases, insects and
rodents have tunneled throughout the SIPs, and some manufacturers have issued
guidelines for preventing these problems, including:
Applying insecticides to the panels
Treating the ground with insecticides both before and after initial construction
and backfilling
Maintaining indoor humidity levels below 50%
Locating outdoor plantings at least two feet (0.6 meters) away from the walls
Trimming any over-hanging tree limbs.
Boric acid-treated insulation panels are also available. These panels deter insects,
but are relatively harmless to humans and pets.
Because it is so airtight, a well-built SIP structure requires controlled fresh-
air ventilation for safety, health, and performance, and to meet many building
codes. A well-designed, installed, and properly operated mechanical ventilation
system can also help prevent indoor moisture problems, which is important for
achieving the energy-saving benefits of an SIP structure.
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