American Journal of Multidisciplinary Research & Development (AJMRD)

Volume 2, Issue 2 (February- 2020), PP 46-52

ISSN: 2360-821X
www.ajmrd.com

Research Paper Open Access

Investigation on the Effect of Natural Mordants on Dyeing

Properties of Cotton Fabric with Natural Dye
1
Thet Thet Aung, 2Nyi Nyi Htoo, 3Hnin Phyu Lwin
1
Department of Textile Engineering, Yangon Technological University, Myanmar
2
Department of Textile Engineering, Yangon Technological University, Myanmar
3
Department of Textile Engineering, Yangon Technological University, Myanmar

ABSTRACT : This research concerned with the application of natural dye and natural mordant on cotton
substrate and analyzing on the properties of dyed cotton fabric. The main aim of research is to reduce the
application of synthetic dyes which release enormous amount of hazardous chemicals in the environment
during production and subsequent use. The objectives of this research are to apply the natural dye (Turmeric
Powder) and natural mordant such as Aloe Vera Gel, Lemon Juice and Pseudo Stem Sap on cotton fabric, to
analyze the physical properties and colour fastness properties of dyed fabrics and to investigate the shade
variation of dyed fabrics by using CIE L* a* b* colour system . Natural dye and natural mordants used in this
research can be easily sustainable obtained everywhere in Myanmar.

Keywords: colour fastness properties, CIE L* a* b* colour system, natural dye, natural mordant, physical
properties

I. INTRODUCTION
Nature is full of fascinating colors and people had been exploiting them for dyeing garments, using
them in food and many other items of the daily use. Today the protection of environment has become a
challenge for the chemical industry worldwide and the water pollution caused by synthetic dyes in particular, the
control of effluent continue to be a problem. All the colouring matters were derived directly from vegetable or
animal sources, until the advent of synthetic dyes.
Natural dyes cover all the dyes derived from plants, insects and minerals that is derived from natural
sources without chemical processing. Natural dyes are biodegradable also, unlike the synthetic dyes these do not
pose a problem of pollution for waste which remains after the dyeing process these are easily absorbed by the
soil. Natural dye and natural mordant are favorable to ecology as plants, shrubs and trees constitute the main
source. Natural dyes are safe and eco-friendly as they are found to be free from hazardous chemicals. Therefore,
their commercial use shall definitely minimize the health hazards caused by the use of synthetic dyes.

II. MATERIALS
2.1. Natural Dye
Natural dyes are deep and soft in color shades when compared with synthetic dyes. And they are
useful for human health because they have antibacterial, insecticidal and healthy properties, which are due to
the origin of them- extracted from herb plants. Besides, with the increase of the worldwide concern for the
environmental circumstances, many are anxious for the possibility of the natural dyes because they can
overcome the defects of synthetic dyes such as harmfulness to human body, pollution and wastewater. But
natural dyes show very low dye exhaustion to cotton fibre compared with silk or wool fibres, and satisfying
results have not been acquired till now even though many dyeing methods such as repeat dyeing and mordant
treatment have been done to overcome this problem.
2.1.1. Turmeric
Turmeric is a flowering plant, Curcuma longa of the ginger family, Zingiberaceae. The plant is a
perennial, rhizomatous, herbaceous plant native to the Indian subcontinent and Southeast Asia. The rhizomes
are used fresh or boiled in water and dried, after which they are ground into a deep orange-yellow powder
commonly used as a coloring and flavoring agent in many Asian cuisines, especially for curries, as well as for

Multidisciplinary Journal www.ajmrd.com Page | 46

 Investigation on the Effect of Natural Mordants on Dyeing Properties of Cotton Fabric with…

dyeing.
Turmeric powder has a warm, bitter, black pepper-like flavor and earthy, mustard-like aroma.
Turmeric powder is about 60–70% carbohydrates, 6–13% water, 6–8% protein, 5–10% fat, 3–7% dietary
minerals, 3–7% essential oils, 2–7% dietary fiber, and 1–6% curcuminoids. The golden yellow color of
turmeric is due to curcumin. It also contains an orange-colored volatile oil. Turmeric makes a poor fabric dye,
as it is not very light fast, but is commonly used in Indian clothing, such as saris and Buddhist monks's robes.

2.2. Mordants
Natural dyes are substantive, needing no mordant or adjective requiring a mordant. The majority of natural
dyes need a chemical in the form of metal salt to create an affinity between the fibre and the pigment.
Mordanting of the textile material is to improve the colour yield in the development of shade and to help
fixation of the colouring molecule to the substrate as a link; in effect mordanting should also improve the
fastness properties against light, temperature, humidity, atmospheric contaminants and washing fastness during
subsequent processing stages and the product while in use.

2.2.1.Role of Mordant in Vegetable dyeing

Most of the vegetable dyes require the use of mordants prior to dyeing of textile materials. In fact the
process of mordanting prepares the textile materials to receive the dyestuff. Mordants are supported to assist the
process of dyeing and should not affect the physical and chemical characteristics of the textile materials. They
should thoroughly penetrate the textile material for successfully dyeing operations. If the mordants are present
in superficial stages then dyeing shade development will be uneven. Mordants are classified into,
i. Metallic salts (alum, potassium dichromate, ferrous sulphate, copper, etc)
ii. Vegetable mordants (myrobolan and sumach, etc)
iii. Oil and oil based mordants

2.2.2.Aloe Vera
Aloe vera is a succulent plant species of the genus Aloe. An evergreen perennial, it originates from the
Arabian Peninsula but grows wild in tropical climates around the world and is cultivated for agricultural and
medicinal uses. It is found in many consumer products including beverages, skin lotion, cosmetics, or ointments
for minor burns and sunburns. Aleo vera gel is used as mordant in textile dyeing. Aloe vera leaves contain
phytochemicals under study for possible bioactivity, such as acetylated mannans, polymannans, anthraquinone
C-glycosides, anthrones, and other anthraquinones, such as emodin and various lectins. The leaves are thick and
fleshy, green to grey-green, with some varieties showing white flecks on their upper and lower stem surfaces.
The margin of the leaf is serrated and has small white teeth.

2.2.3. Lemon
The lemon, Citrus limon (L.) Osbeck, is a species of small evergreen tree in the flowering plant family
Rutaceae, native to South Asia, primarily North eastern India. The tree's ellipsoidal yellow fruit is used for
culinary and non-culinary purposes throughout the world, primarily for its juice, which has both culinary and
cleaning uses. The pulp and rind are also used in cooking and baking. The juice of the lemon is about 5% to 6%
citric acid, with a pH of around 2.2, giving it a sour taste. The distinctive sour taste of lemon juice makes it a
key ingredient in drinks and foods such as lemonade and lemon meringue pie. Lemons contain numerous
phytochemicals, including polyphenols, terpenes, and tannins. Lemon juice contains slightly more citric acid
than lime juice (about 47 g/l), nearly twice the citric acid of grapefruit juice, and about five times the amount of
citric acid found in orange juice.

2.2.4. Pseudo Stem Sap

Banana is one of the most well-known and useful plants in the world. Almost all the parts of this plant,
that are, fruit, leaves, flower bud, trunk, and pseudo-stem, can be utilized. Bananas are widely produced and
abundant natural resources in tropical and subtropical countries in the world.
Banana pseudo stem sap (BPS) has been extracted from the outer sheath of pseudo stem of banana tree
(Musa Cavendish). It looks like colourless clean water immediately after extraction. However, with the passage
of time, it slowly turns into a light khaki colour due to the oxidation of phenolic rings present in it. As BPS
contains minerals like sodium, potassium, magnesium, and calcium, it can be used as an energy booster for the
sportsmen or as an energy drink for alike applications. It has been reported that the alkaline fraction of BPS can
be used as an anticorrosive agent for concrete steel, as it is composed of compounds like inorganic materials,
polyphenol oxidase, peroxidase and phenolic aromatic ring. As far as the textile application is concerned, BPS
has been used as an active ingredient for natural dye, mordant, UV protective and flame retardant formulation.

Multidisciplinary Journal www.ajmrd.com Page | 47

 Investigation on the Effect of Natural Mordants on Dyeing Properties of Cotton Fabric with…

III. METHOD
3.3 Fabric Analysis
Physical properties of cotton fabric like fabric weight, fabric stiffness and fabric breaking strength are
determined according to the respective ASTM standards. The sample fabric is conditioned in the standard
atmosphere having relative humidity of (65±2) % R.H and a temperature of (20±2) °C for 24 hours. These tests
are performed at Textile Testing and Quality Control Laboratory, Department of Textile Engineering, Yangon
Technological University. The summary of physical properties test results is presented in Table 4.1.

3.4. Preparation of Bleached Cotton Fabric

Cotton is the backbone of the world’s textile trade. Many of our everyday textile fabrics are made from
cotton. Cotton has been used for apparel purposes because of its well-known advantages such as ability to take
up a wide range of dyestuff, low cost of production and comfort during wear. So, cotton fabric is selected as
substrate to apply the dyestuff in this research. Bleached cotton fabric is collected from local market.
Before the dyeing process the bleached cotton fabric is cut into 10″x72″ and weighed. And then it is soaked
in water for several hours. The purpose of this process is to remove the impurities, to impart certain desirable
water absorbency, to improve the appearance of fabric (whiteness) and to make it suitable for subsequent
process like dyeing. After soaking process, the sample fabric is squeezed and mounted to the jigger machine to
perform the dyeing operation with natural turmeric dye and natural mordant.

3.5. Dyeing and Mordanting the Cotton Fabric

In the preparation of dye bath, 5 % of turmeric dye powder (o.w.f) is pasted with warm water and then cold
water is added to completely dissolve the dye powder in solution. Material to liquor ratio used in this experiment
is 1:15. One sample is dyed without mordant to compare the properties and colour strength with the dyed sample
with mordant. After dissolving the dye powder in solution, the mordant (aleo vera gel/ lemon juice/ pseudo stem
sap) 10%, 20%, 30% is added to the dye solution. Simultaneous mordanting and dyeing method is used in this
study. Dyeing and mordanting conditions are shown in Table 3.1. The fabric is dyed in jigger machine at 80° C
for 45 minutes. After dyeing process, the dyed fabric is rinsed with cold water to remove the unfixed dye and
squeezed out by hand. And then the fabric is dried at room temperature.

Table. 3.1 Dyeing Condition

Sr. Sample Turmeric Mordant Mordant M:L Dye Dyeing Dyeing
No. Code Dye (%) Solution Time Temp
(%) (pH) (min) (ºC)
1 T 5 - - 1:15 45 80
7
2 A10 Aloe Vera 10% 6
Gel
3 A20 20% 6
4 A30 30% 6
5 L10 Lemon 10% 3
Juice
6 L20 20% 3
7 L30 30% 3

8 P10 Pseudo 10% 6-7

Stem Sap
9 P20 20% 6-7
10 P30 30% 6-7

3.6. Physical Properties of Dyed Cotton Fabrics

Dyeing the cotton fabric with natural dye and natural mordant can affect the physical properties of the
samples. After dyeing process physical properties of dyed fabric such as fabric weight, fabric stiffness and
fabric breaking strength are determined according to the respective ASTM standards. Comparison of physical

Multidisciplinary Journal www.ajmrd.com Page | 48

 Investigation on the Effect of Natural Mordants on Dyeing Properties of Cotton Fabric with…

properties of dyed and undyed fabric is shown in Table 4.1.

3.7. Measurement of Dye Absorption and Colour

X-rite spectrophotometer is used to measure the spectroreflectance and adsorption concentration of
surface (K/S) of dyed cotton fabrics and CIE L* a* b* colour system is applied for the achievement of colour
values such as lightness, chroma, hue angle, red colour (+a) or green colour (-a), yellow colour (+b) or blue
colour (-b). Colour values of dyed sample fabrics with and without mordant can be observed in Table 4.2.

3.8. Determination of Colour Fastness Properties on Dyed Cotton Fabrics

Colour fastness is the property of pigment or dye to retain its original hue, especially without fading,
running, or changing when wetted, washed, cleaned; or stored under normal conditions when exposed to light,
heat or other influences. There are many types of fastness properties such as washing, light, crocking, and
abrasion, gases in atmosphere, frosting, perspiration and heat. In this study, light fastness, washing fastness and
rubbing fastness tests are performed because they are normally exposed in textile manufacturing and in daily
use.

3.8.1. Determination of Light Fastness Properties on Dyed Cotton Fabrics

Light fastness refers to the ability of the fabric to withstand the sunlight and the resistance of the sunlight
depends on the intensity of the light, inherent properties of the fabric, season, altitude and distance from the
equator. In determining the light fastness of dyed fabric, the principle is mainly based on ISO-105 A02. 1987.
The fabrics are tested in Acme type fading test machine and light fastness grade of dyed fabrics are shown in
Table 4.3.

3.8.2. Determination of Washing Fastness Properties on Dyed Cotton Fabrics

After dyeing process, washing is carried out in accordance with ISO Test No.3. Colour fastness to
washing is ability of the fabric to withstand the effect of laundering. In this experiment Scrub O Meter washing
machine is used to evaluate colour fastness to washing with the help of grey scales. The washing of fabric
results in the removal of dye, therefore staining can occur, in order to determine the staining; a white fabric is
attached to the specimen being tested for colour fastness to washing. Test results are shown in Table 4.3.

3.8.3. Determination of Rubbing Fastness Properties on Dyed Cotton Fabrics

Rubbing color fastness refers to the ability to sustain original color of dyed fabrics when rubbing. Dry
rubbing color fastness refers to the situation of fading and staining of dyed fabric when rubbed with a standard
white cloth. Wet rubbing color fastness refers to the situation of fading and staining of dyed fabric when rubbed
with a standard white cloth which water content is 95% to 105%. The evaluation of Rubbing color fastness
depends on the degree of staining of white cloth. After testing, the white cloth is compared to staining sample
cards to measure staining fastness. The friction fading of fabric is to make dye fall off caused by friction. Wet
rubbing is influenced by both external force and water, so it is about one level lower than dry rubbing.
The rubbing off of colour is called as crocking. Test procedure is performed by AATCC Test Method
8-1996 and motor type crock meter is used to find the colour fastness to crocking. This instrument has a finger
covered by a white cotton fabric which would rub against the specimen. Dry and wet rubbing test are performed
in this study. The wet test is a severe test since moisture helps in removal of dyes. Test results of rubbing are
described in Table 4.3.

IV. RESULTS AND DISCUSSIONS

4.1 Determination of the Physical Properties of Cotton Fabric
The natural dyeing can affect the physical prolperties of the fabric. So the investigation on the physical
properties of dyed fabrics is also performed.
According to the fabric weight test results in Table 4.1, the weight of all dyed fabrics increases when
comparing with the undyed fabric. Among the dyed fabrics with mordant, the range of dyed samples with
Pseudo stem sap from 112.49 to 115.20, so they give the heavier weight than other samples.
Based on the summary test results, the overall flexural rigidity of the all dyed samples is larger than the
undyed fabric. The higher overall flexural rigidity value, the stiffer the fabric. Among the sample fabrics, P10,
P20 and P30 are stiffer than the other dyed fabrics. This indicated that the Pseudo stem sap mordant give the
stiffer effect than the other.

According to the test results, the breaking strength of the sample fabrics dyed without mordant (T) and
all dyed fabric mordanted with Aleo vera gel (A10, A20 and A30) and Pseudo stem sap P30 increase than the
undyed sample in warp direction. Breaking strength of all the dyed samples mordanted with lemon juice

Multidisciplinary Journal www.ajmrd.com Page | 49

 Investigation on the Effect of Natural Mordants on Dyeing Properties of Cotton Fabric with…

decreased than the undyed fabric. Lemon juice contains citric acid which can also cause the degradation of
cotton. Therefore, precautions in terms of concentration of acid, time of treatment and temperature must be
taken to avoid loss of strength of cotton fabric.
In the filling direction, the breaking strength of all dyed sample fabrics (with and without mordant) is
increased when compared with the undyed fabric. The best breaking strength in filling direction is sample A30
which is mordanted with 30 % concentration of aleo vera gel.

Table 4.1 Summary of the Physical Properties Results of Undyed and Dye Fabrics
Sr. Sample Parameters Test Results (Mean Values)
No. Code Fabric weight Breaking Strength (kgf) Overall Flexural Rigidity
(g/m2) (mg-cm)
Warp Filling
1 C 98.70 48.10 21.50 11.58
2 T 109.27 54.40 26.80 13.51
3 A10 109.91 49.70 23.00 15.26
4 A20 112.21 49.10 26.90 13.57
5 A30 114.06 49.10 28.00 15.19
6 L10 110.29 43.50 23.40 13.81
7 L20 111.14 43.50 23.40 15.58
8 L30 112.58 41.86 23.60 15.58
9 P10 112.49 47.35 25.70 16.87
10 P20 114.01 42.70 25.40 17.79
11 P30 115.20 51.20 26.50 16.99

4.2. Determination of Coloure Developed on Dyed Cotton Fabrics

According to the test results shown in Table 4.2, L* values of all dye fabrics lie between 87.77 and
90.21. So the colour of dyed fabrics seen lighter in colour. But the L* value of dyed fabric without mordant
(Sample T) is largest, this indicate that the sample fabric T is lighter than the other dyed fabrics with mordants.
Base on the resultant data of a* and b* values, all dyed samples indicate the yellow colour in shade.
Among them, the dyed sample fabrics with lemon juice mordant give the more yellower and brighter in color
than the other because the b* vales of those are larger than the others.
However, color of dye sample T, A10, A20, A30, P10, P20 and P30 or except Lemon Juice mordanted
fabrics indicate the pale greenish-yellow due to the negative values of a*. According to the visual observation,
the dyed sample fabrics mordanted with lemon juice give the more yellower and brighter in color and the other
are pale greenish yellow in color. So visual observation and result of actual measurement with instrument are
identical. Moreover, Chroma values of dyed sample fabric with lemon juice mordant larger than the other
samples, this represents the more saturation in yellow color than the other. Among them, the Chroma of L 20 is
the highest. From the color strength point of view, K/S value of L20 is also highest. In addition colour difference
(ΔE) from standard fabric T is largest. Color of Dyed Cotton Fabrics is shown in Appendex A.

Table 4.2. Colour Values and Colour Strength

Sr. Sample CIELAB
DE* K/S
No. Code L* a* b* C* h°
1 T 90.21 -5.22 47.55 47.83 96.26 0.00 0.50
2 A10 89.55 -4.25 56.05 56.21 94.34 8.58 0.72
3 A20 89.63 -3.75 56.26 56.38 93.81 8.85 0.74
4 A30 88.81 -2.50 59.64 59.69 92.40 12.47 0.90
5 L10 88.25 0.92 75.59 75.59 89.30 28.77 1.93
6 L20 88.58 1.00 78.65 78.66 89.27 31.76 2.12
7 L30 88.26 0.73 72.22 72.22 89.42 25.45 1.72
8 P10 89.36 -3.27 48.00 48.11 93.90 2.17 0.57
9 P20 89.18 -3.66 55.26 55.38 93.79 7.94 0.73
10 P30 87.77 -1.97 55.37 55.41 92.03 8.82 0.84

4.3. Determaination of Fastness Properties on Dyed Cotton Fabrics

Washing fastness test is carried out in accordance with ISO Test No. 3. Change in colour of dyed
sample and staining on adjacent white sample are assessed by comparing with grey scale and test results are

Multidisciplinary Journal www.ajmrd.com Page | 50

 Investigation on the Effect of Natural Mordants on Dyeing Properties of Cotton Fabric with…

shown in Table 4.3. According to the test results, sample T (dyed with turmeric dye only) give the fastness
Grade 2 which is considerably change in shade and means poor in washing fastness property. Comparing the
shade change of dyed fabrics without and with different mordants, all of the sample show the Grade 3 which is
fair in shade change or noticeable changed except samples A20 , A30, P10, and P20. In terms of staining, there are
very slight staining on control fabric showing fastness to good for all dyed fabrics with and without mordant.

Table 4.3 Colour Fastness Properties

Washing Rubbing
Sr.No. Sample Code Change in Light
Staining Dry Wet
Shade
1 T 2 4 4 5 3
2 A10 3 4 3 5 3
3 A20 2 4 3 5 3
4 A30 2 4 3 5 3
5 L10 3 4 3 5 2
6 L20 3 4 3 5 2
7 L30 3 4 3 5 2
8 P10 2 4 3 5 3
9 P20 2 4 3 5 3
10 P30 3 4 3 5 3

According to the test results, light fastness of sample T (dyed with turmeric dye only) is grade 4 which
is very slight fading. But dyed fabric with aloe vera gel, lemon juice and pseudo stem sap mordant give grade 3
which is fair or moderate fading. So natural mordants used in dyeing can affect the light fastness properties of
dyed fabric. Dry rubbing fastness of all dyed samples (with and without mordant) is excellent. Wet
rubbing fastness of all dyed samples with lemon juice mordant is poor because the grade is 2 and the other
samples are the fair in grade and moderate staining on white sample.

V. CONCLUSION
From the study of “Investigation on the Effect of Natural Mordants on Dyeing Properties of Cotton Fabric with
Natural Dye”,the following conclusions can be drawn.
1. The breaking strength in warp direction of dyed fabrics with mordant decreases when compared with
dyed fabric without mordant (T). Among the dyed fabrics, sample L10 ,L20, and L30 have lower
strength than others. This is due to the acidic condition of dye solution (pH -3). Lemon juice contains
citric acid which can also cause the degradation of cotton.
2. All of the dyed fabric is stiffer than undyed fabric. Among them dyed fabrics with pseudo stem sap
mordant are stiffer than the other.
3. The weight of all dyed fabric increased when compared with the undyed fabric.
4. The colour of all dyed fabric is attractive and brighter in colour. Among them colour strength of L 20 is
largest which is treated with 20% concentration of lemon juice mordant.
5. As for washing fastness properties, the colour change in shade of all dyed sample with lemon juice
mordant are graded as fair.
6. From the point of rubbing fastness properties, dry rubbing fastness properties for all dyed samples are
excellent and wet rubbing fastness properties are significant staining in dye samples with lemon juice
mordant.
7. According to the theory, turmeric makes a poor fabric dye, as it is not very light fast. In practical, light
fastness results show poor grade, so it can be concluded that natural mordants such as aloe vera gel,
lemon juice and pseudo stem sap should not be used in turmeric dyeing with simultaneous dyeing and
mordanting. Other mordanting methods such as premordanting and post mordanting method should be
carried out as future work.
8. Dyeing time, dyeing temperature, dye concentration and mordant concentration also affect the dyeing. So
it is suggested to study the effect of various dying time, dyeing temperature and concentrations.
9. Turmeric dyed fabric with natural mordant can be used in apparel because they do not contain toxic
chemical which are harmful to human skin. Moreover, cotton is comfort in during wear, soft, cool,
absorbent and breathable; it is suitable in garment which is close to the body. It can be used in household
items which do not require frequent washing, but it should not be used in curtain because of poor fastness
properties and stiffness.
Multidisciplinary Journal www.ajmrd.com Page | 51
 Investigation on the Effect of Natural Mordants on Dyeing Properties of Cotton Fabric with…

10. The advantage of natural dyeing process is simple and economical as no chemical and energy is required.

REFERENCES
[1]. Convention on Natural Dyes. Department of Textile Technology IIT Delhi. Sponsored by Slps
Industrial Ltd and Supported by Council of Scientific and Industrial Research, D. Mannohar Laland
Co.
[2]. Characterization of Banana Pseudostem Sap Used As a Mordant for Dyeing, ISSN: 2394-2592, SSRG
International Journal of Polymer and Textile Engineering (SSRG-IJPTE)-Volume 2 Issue 3 Sep to Dec
2015.
[3]. Studies of Banana SAP used as Mordant for natural dye, ISSN: 2395-3578, International Journal on
Textile Engineering and Processes, Volume 1, Issue 4, October 2015
[4]. Technical Articles, Aloe Vera: Natural mordant for natural dye, Abu Naser Md. Ahsanul Haque, May
16, 2017
[5]. Anonymous, http://textilefocus.com/aloe-vera-natural-mordant-natyral-dye

Appendix A
Colour of Dyed Cotton Fabrics

A10 A20 A30

L10 L20 L30

P10 P20 P30

Multidisciplinary Journal www.ajmrd.com Page | 52