© Lonely Planet Publications

130 lonelyplanet.com A G R A • • H i s t o r y 131

Agra FESTIVALS IN AGRA & FATEHPUR SIKRI

Taj Mahotsav (18-27 Feb; Agra) Held in Shilpgram, a crafts village and open-air emporium, this festival features
live music and dance, food-tasting and a Mughal procession with elephants and camels.
Kailash Fair (Aug-Sep; Kailash) Convened at Kailash, a 14km drive from Agra, the fair commemorates the appear-
ance of Lord Shiva, in the form of a stone lingam, at its temple.
The Taj Mahal Marathon (Sep; Agra; www.thetajmahalmarathon.com) The new Taj Mahal marathon, running
from the village of Niyamat Pur to the Taj Mahal, is set to become an annual event.
Agra is home to one of the most famous monuments not only in India, but in the world: Eid al-Fitr (Dec/Jan; Fatehpur Sikri) Join the happy crowds in the bazaar and mosque at Fatehpur Sikri, near Agra,
the semitranslucent, dreamlike Taj Mahal, a building that seems to glow with an ethereal for end-of-Ramadan celebrations.
light. The city was the Mughal capital from 1526, established by Emperor Babur on the
banks of the Yamuna River, and for the next century Agra witnessed a remarkable spate of
HISTORY Fatehabad Rd. West from Taj Ganj, on the oppo-
architectural activity as each emperor tried to outdo the grandiose monuments built by his In 1504 Sultan Sikander Lodi established his site side of the leafy, British-built Cantonment
AGRA

AGRA
predecessors – leaving behind a remarkable collection of Mughal masterpieces. capital here, but the city fell into Mughal district, is Sadar Bazaar, a smarter, more relaxed
hands in 1526, reaching its pinnacle of ar- and serene alternative to Taj Ganj.
Today the city is sprawling, industrial and, for many travellers, just a bit too much hard chitectural innovation between the mid-16th Most trains arrive and depart from the Agra
work; the clamour and hustle a strident contrast to the otherworldly grace of the Taj Mahal. and 17th centuries during the successive Cantonment station in the southwest of the
The hordes of rickshaw-wallahs, touts and souvenir-vendors are as persistent as monsoon reigns of Akbar, Jehangir and Shah Jahan. city, while long-haul buses arrive and depart
In 1638 Shah Jahan built a new city in Delhi the Idgah bus stand directly to the station’s
rain and would test even the patience of Akbar, the most tolerant of Mughal emperors. north. A few other trains also leave from the
(now known as Old Delhi; see p96); his son
Aurangzeb moved the capital there 10 years Agra Fort train station in the north of the city,
If you’re on limited time, it’s easy to visit the Taj on a whistle-stop day trip from Delhi,
later, marking the end of Agra’s munificence just east of the Kinari Bazaar.
though Agra contains many other worthwhile Mughal wonders. Just an hour away by bus
as imperial seat.
is the deserted city of Fatehpur Sikri, a destination highly recommended for its evocative In 1761 Agra fell to the Jats, who looted INFORMATION
sense of the Mughal empire at its peak. its monuments, including the Taj Mahal. A decent online guide to the city can be found
The Marathas took over in 1770, but were at www.agra-india.net; there’s also the state
replaced by the British in 1803. Following the tourism website at www.up-tourism.com.
Indian Uprising of 1857, the British shifted
administration of the province to Allahabad. Bookshops
Deprived of its administrative role, Agra de- Aanee Bookshop (Map p137; Taj South Gate) Sells
veloped as a centre for the chemicals industry secondhand books at reasonable prices.
and, consequently, atmospheric pollution – an
environmental problem it still struggles to Emergency
shake off – before tourism became a major Tourist police (Map p132; %2421204; UP Tourism
HIGHLIGHTS office, Agra Cantonment train station; h24hr) The guys
source of income.
„ Gaze in wonder at the Taj Mahal (p133), in sky-blue uniforms are based at the tourism office.
a quintessentially Indian jewel ORIENTATION
Akbar's Agra sits on the Ganges plain on the western Internet Access
„ Explore the nooks and crannies of the Mausoleum
(at Sikandra)
Itimad-ud- bank of the Yamuna River and has no real There’s internet access available all over Taj
awesome riverside Agra Fort (p135) Daulah
(Baby Taj) centre, its attractions being spread out in be- Ganj, usually costing around Rs 30 to Rs 40
„ Wander the eerie red-sandstone palaces tween a number of bazaar districts over an per hour. One reliable option in Taj Ganj is
of the lost city of Fatehpur Sikri (p142) area more than 20 sq km. iWay Internet (Map p137; per hr Rs 30; h8am-11pm).
„ Stroll the deer park at Akbar’s Mauso- Most of the city’s Mughal masterpieces
leum (p136), final resting place of the
Agra
Fort hug the banks of the Yamuna: Agra’s massive Left Luggage
greatest Mughal emperor, at Sikandra fort and the city’s main marketplace, Kinari Agra Cantonment train station (Map p132; h24hr)
Fatehpur Bazaar, are both in the northern half of the Yash Café (Map p137; Taj South Gate) A stone’s throw from
„ Admire the Itimad-ud-Daulah (p136), Sikri Taj
or Baby Taj, constructed of white marble
Mahal city, close to the riverbank. The Taj Mahal, the Taj Mahal; this place charges Rs 50 for a whole day’s
and semiprecious stones
meanwhile, is about 1.5km southeast of the luggage storage, with access to its showers thrown in.
fort, also beside the river.
The congested, confusing network of alleys Medical Services
immediately to the south of the Taj Mahal is District Hospital (Map p132; %2361099; Mahatma
known as Taj Ganj. Here you’ll find the bulk Ghandi (MG) Rd; h24hr)
of Agra’s budget hotels, while most midrange SN Hospital (Map p132; %2361314; Hospital Rd;
„ AREA: 82 SQ KM „ POPULATION:1,321,410 „ TELEPHONE CODE: 0562 and top-end hotels are located further south on h24hr)
 132 A G R A lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com A G R A • • D a n g e r s & A n n o y a n c e s 133

AGRA 0
0
800 m
0.5 miles
Money Credit-card fraud is another scam operat-
Allahabad Bank (Map p132; Clarks Shiraz Hotel; ing widely in Agra. If at all possible, pay cash
hnoon-4pm Mon-Fri, noon-2pm Sat) for everything and if you do decide to use
INFORMATION SLEEPING Andhra Bank (Map p132; Sadar Bazaar; h10am-4pm your card, don’t let it out of your sight. It’s
Allahabad Bank.....................(see 17)
Andhra Bank............................ 1 B6
Clarks Shiraz Hotel................. 17
Hotel Amar............................ 18
C6
D6
Mon-Fri, 10am-1pm Sat) worthwhile checking your account regularly
Citibank ATM.......................... 2 D6 Hotel Ashish Palace............... 19 D6 Citibank ATM (Map p132; Fatehabad Rd) for errant transactions.
District Hospital........................ 3 B5
HDFC ATM............................. 4 D6
Hotel Atithi............................ 20
Hotel Safari........................... 21
D6
D6 HDFC ATM (Map p132; Fatehabad Rd) Several years ago, a few Taj Ganj restaurants
India Tourism Office................ 5 B6 Hotel Sakura.......................... 22 A5 LKP Forex (Map p132; Fatehabad Rd; h9.30am-6pm allegedly went to the extent of deliberately
LKP Forex................................ 6 D6 Mughal Sheraton................... 23 D6
Main Post Office...................... 7 B6 Tourists Rest House................ 24 B5 Mon-Sat) Part of a reliable India-wide chain; exchanges poisoning travellers and rushing them off to
Police Station........................... 8 B6 currency and travellers cheques. crooked doctors who then billed insurance
Post Office............................(see 17) EATING
State Bank of India (Map p132; h10am-4pm Mon- companies thousands of dollars. Lonely Planet

Balkeshwar Rd
SN Hospital.............................. 9 B4 Dasaprakash.......................... 25 B6
State Bank of India................. 10 B5 Lakshmi Vilas......................... 26 B6 Fri, 10am-1pm Sat) Just off Chhipi Tola Rd. has received several word-of-mouth travel-
Tourist Police........................(see 11) Only Restaurant.................... 27 C6
UP Tourism Office................. 11 C6 Park....................................... 28 B6 To Aligarh UTI ATM Sadar Bazaar (Map p132); Taj East Gate (Map p137) ler reports suggesting this has resurfaced: it’s
UP Tourism Office................. 12 A6 Peshawri...............................(see 23) (79km)
worth keeping an ear out for further news on
AGRA

AGRA
UTI ATM................................ 13 B6 Tourist Rest House.................(see 24)
Zorba the Buddha.................. 29 B6 Photography this nasty practice.
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES
Chini-ka-Rauza...................... 14 D3 TRANSPORT
Radhey Lal Colour Lab (Map p137; Taj South Gate) Can Finally, in September 2007, two female
Itimad-ud-Daulah.................. 15 D4 Agra Fort Bus Station............. 30 B4 Nation
al Hwy 2 handle all your print and digital requirements. Japanese tourists were allegedly raped in their
Bypa
Jama Masjid.......................... 16 C4 Idgah Bus Station................... 31 A5
Prepaid Autorickshaw Booth.. 32 A6
ss hotel in Agra. Though this appears to have
Ram
Prepaid Taxi Booth.................(see 32) Bagh Post been a highly disturbing isolated incident,

d
ri R
Rajasthan Government
Main post office (Map p132; %2363886; the Mall; female travellers should remember the Staying

iwa
To Sikandra & Akbar’s Buses................................(see 22)
Safe tips included on p372.

aran T
Mausoleum (10km); Sur Sarovar
Bird Sanctuary (17km); Mathura h10am-6pm Mon-Sat)
Post office (Map p132; Clarks Shiraz Hotel; h10am-

Rd
(56km); Delhi (200km)

lich

rth
Ka
14
5pm Mon-Sat) SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES

ga
Belanganj

er

Ali
dit
Train

Riv
The vast majority of Agra’s sights are based
Pan

Station

a
Rd
Raja ki Mandi
m
un np
ur Tourist Information around the heady, extravagant and highly
Ya

Ka
To Bharatpur &
Train Station
India Tourism office (Map p132; %2226378; www cultured world of the Mughals, who left their
Keoladeo National
Park (60km)
Agra City Train
Station
Yamuna .incredibleindia.org; 191 the Mall; h9am-5.30pm Mon- legacy dotted about the city.
Bridge Train
Ra m Station Fri, 9am-2pm Sat & government holidays) Offers bro-
ratan Marg
15 chures, advice on hotels, and will fix you up with an official Taj Mahal
Bh agat Singh Marg
9 Hos
guide (up to 4 people half/full day Rs 350/650). ENTRY & INFORMATION
See Agra Fort Map (p135)

pita
l Rd UP Tourism office (www.up-tourism.com) Agra Canton- Described as the most extravagant monument
an Rd

Old Town
Area (Kinari
ment train station (Map p132; %2421204; h24hr); Taj ever built for love, this sublime Mughal mau-
ku iy

Bazaar) Rd (Map p132; %2226431; 64 Taj Rd; h10am-5pm soleum (Map p137; %2330498; Indian/foreigner Rs 20/750,
Panch

id Rd
Masj
Agra Fort Jama Mon-Sat) children under 15 free, video Rs 25; h6am-7pm, south gate
Ghalibpu Train Station
ra
Rd 16 from 8am, closed Fri) is India’s greatest tourist em-
Agra
Fort
DANGERS & ANNOYANCES blem. Many have tried to sum up its beauty –
Mehtab
Bagh Many hotels, tourist shops and moneychang- ‘a teardrop on the face of eternity’ accord-
ers pay hefty commissions to taxi drivers and ing to Indian poet Rabindranath Tagore, ‘the
K in a

30
ra

Fate
hpur rickshaw-wallahs who bring in customers; sus- embodiment of all things pure’ according to
Rd

Sikri R
Rd

d
To Fatehpur
piciously cheap – or even free – rickshaw rides Indian-born British writer Rudyard Kipling.
See Taj Ganj Map (p137)
a

Sikri (40km)
To l

10 Yam
Idgah u na Ki will often lead to a gem or souvenir shop. Usually quiet and exceptionally magical
pi

Taj Mahal
Field Marshal

Train n a r a Rd
hi
Ch

Station at sunrise, it doesn’t get invaded by tour

Shahjahan
Rd
3 24 Park Scams groups until mid-morning. It’s also great to
er
Ku

Don’t fall for the ‘gem import scam’, which has visit around sunset, though you might find
mn

tche
Ma h a t
Na

Golf
22 been conning tourists for decades. Travellers its iridescent sparkle subdued by lengthen-
ry Rd

31 Course Bazaar
To Kheria
ma Gandhi (MG

Airport (7km) are invited to earn a quick buck by helping a ing shadows. Bear in mind that though the
Ajme
r Rd 7 25 shop avoid import duty. All they have to do entrance price is pretty steep, it does entitle
d
Agra 5
Ta
jR is carry gems back to their home country, you to a modest saving at Agra’s other points
d

Cantonment 29 The M
l i or R

Rd 4
(Cantt) Train n
all
6 23 where a company representative will hand of interest. You’ll get Rs 50 off entry to Agra
tio
) Rd

Station a Fa
Gwa

12 St Sadar
Bazaar 19 2 teh
ab them a tidy profit. The travellers are asked Fort, and Rs 10 off entry to Akbar’s tomb,
18 20 ad
Statio
n Rd
13 1 26 17
27 Rd to make a small credit-card payment ‘as a Fatehpur Sikri and Itimad-ud-Daulah, pro-
32 Taj Rd
28
11 sign of good faith’. Without exception, the vided you visit on the same day.
Rd

To Fatehabad
(35km) gems are worthless, the representative never If you’re in town on the night of the full
Shamsabad

21
8
To Gwalior materialises and travellers are lumped with a moon plus two nights on either side, there
(118km)
huge credit-card bill. are moonlight viewings of the Taj for the same
 134 A G R A • • S i g h t s & A c t i v i t i e s lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com A G R A • • S i g h t s & A c t i v i t i e s 135

price as a regular entry ticket. Batches of 50 was finished, to prevent him from making surrounding the bulbous central dome, topped 0 200 m
visitors are allowed in at a time, with strict se- another one; others, that the emperor wanted by a 17m brass spire. Entrance is through
AGRA FORT 0 0.1 miles

curity measures, between 8pm and midnight. his own black-marble mausoleum on the op- the south side, inside which is the Cenotaph
Tickets should be purchased a day in advance posite bank of the river. As he was imprisoned of Mumtaz Mahal, an elaborate false tomb sur- SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES
from one of the Taj’s three ticket offices. by his own son for his final years, however, rounded by an exquisite perforated marble Anguri Bagh....................................... 1
Colvin's Tomb.................................... 2
B4
B4
In attempts to preserve the monument this was never to be. screen. Beside it is the Cenotaph of Shah Jahan, Diwan-i-Am........................................ 3 B4
for as long as possible, there’s a long list of The Taj can be accessed through the west, who was interred here with little ceremony Diwan-i-Khas...................................... 4
Hauz-i-Jehangir.................................. 5
B4
B4
prohibited items (including food, drinks, south and east gates which all lead to an outer by his usurping son Aurangzeb in 1666. The Jehangir's Palace................................ 6 B4
Khas Mahal........................................ 7 B4
drawing materials, tobacco, matches, mobile courtyard known as the Chowk-i Jilo Khana. From real tombs of Mumtaz Mahal and Shah Jahan Ladies' Bazaar..................................... 8 B3
phones and camera tripods) all of which can here, entry to the inner compound is through are directly below, in a locked basement room Mina Masjid....................................... 9 B4
Moti Masjid...................................... 10 B3
be left without charge at the east and west a 30m red-sandstone gateway on the south which cannot be viewed.

Yamuna River
Musamman Burj............................... 11 B4

i Rd
Old Town
gates. Cameras and camcorders are permit- side of the forecourt, inscribed with verses Area (Kinari Nagina Masjid................................... 12 B3

and
Shish Mahal...................................... 13 B4
ted, but you can’t take photographs inside the from the Quran. The ornamental gardens are set Agra Fort Bazaar)

P M
Takhti-i-Jehangir............................... 14 B3
mausoleum (there are instant fines in place). out along classical Mughal charbagh (formal Construction of this massive, majestic red- Ticket Office.................................... 15 B4
AGRA

AGRA
The top shot is of the gem-encrusted building Persian garden) lines – a square quartered sandstone fort and palace (Map p135; %2364512;
reflected in the watercourse that runs through by watercourses, with an ornamental marble admission Indian/foreigner Rs 20/300, video Rs 25; hsun-
the gardens. Another popular choice is the tank, representing the Quran’s celestial pool rise-sunset) was begun by Emperor Akbar in
‘Princess Diana’ photo, with visitors seated of abundance, at the centre. To the west is a 1565, with later additions made by Akbar’s Masj
id R
d
J a ma
on the famous bench where she was pictured small museum (admission Rs 5; h9am-5pm Sat-Thu) grandson Shah Jahan, who quite predictably
alone in 1992. Note that the chances of obtain- housing original architectural drawings of the (considering his efforts on the Taj Mahal)
Agra
ing a similarly solitary shot are pretty much Taj, miniature paintings, and, most compel- incorporated buildings using white marble. Fort Train
Station
impossible these days, though you can queue lingly, some celadon-glazed plates, said to The fort, which stands on earlier Rajput for-
for a try. split into pieces or change colour if the food tifications, was built primarily as a military
served on them contains poison. structure, but Shah Jahan upgraded it to a
TOURING THE TAJ The Taj Mahal mausoleum itself stands on palace, and it became his gilded prison for
Gate
The Taj was built by Emperor Shah Jahan as a a raised marble platform at the northern end his final eight years after his son Aurangzeb (Closed) 10

K in a
memorial for his second wife, Mumtaz Mahal, of the ornamental gardens. Decorative slen- seized power in 1658. It was Aurangzeb, the

ra R
8

who died giving birth to their fourteenth child der white minarets grace each corner of the last of the great Mughal emperors, who added 12 14

d
4
in 1631, aged 39. The death left the besotted platform, which may have been designed to the fort’s ramparts. 2
3 13
11
emperor so heartbroken that his hair is said lean slightly outwards so that in the event The half-moon-shaped fort’s colossal 1 7

to have turned grey overnight. Construction of an earthquake, they would fall away from sandstone double outer walls rise over 20m 9

began the same year and was not completed the Taj. The domed red-sandstone mosque in height and measure 2.5km in circumfer- 5 6

until 1653, with specialists brought in from as to the west of the main structure is an im- ence, broken by a series of huge gates. Inside
far afield as Europe to produce the exquisite portant gathering place for Agra’s Muslims. is a maze of buildings, forming a city within
marble screens and pietra dura (marble inlay The identical building to the east, the jawab, a city, of which only select parts are open to 15 Amar
Singh
work). The construction bill is believed to was built for symmetry and probably used as the public. Many of the fort’s structures were, Gate

have run to Rs 3 million, equivalent to about travellers’ accommodation. over the years, destroyed by Nadir Shah, the
US$70 million today. The mausoleum is made of semitranslucent Marathas, the Jats and finally the British who
Legends abound about its construction. white marble, carved with flowers and inlaid used the fort as a garrison. Colvin, a lieutenant-governor of the northwest
Some say that Shah Jahan rather uncharitably with thousands of semiprecious stones. The Nowadays, the Amar Singh Gate to the south provinces who died of an illness in the fort
cut off the chief mason’s hand once the Taj whole structure is capped by four small domes is the sole entry point to the fort, its confus- during the 1857 Uprising. To the north of
ing design, comprising three separate gates, the Diwan-i-Am courtyard, the Moti Masjid
intended to flummox attackers. From here, (Pearl Mosque) is usually closed to visitors,
SERENITY NOW a ramp leads to a second gate and a court- but don’t miss the tiny but exquisite Nagina
yard surrounding the beautiful Diwan-i-Am Masjid (Gem Mosque) on the upper level of the
Alongside security fears at the Taj, which suspended moonlight visits for two decades, there’s
(Hall of Public Audience). This pillared hall fort, built in 1635 by Shah Jahan for the ladies
another, more pressing danger to Agra’s monuments. Air pollution, caused by a combination of
was used by Shah Jahan for domestic gov- of his harem and made entirely of marble.
heavy industry and traffic fumes is as sure a corroder over time as a vat of acid, and fears for
ernment business, and features an ornate Down below was the Ladies’ bazaar where the
the Taj’s delicate marble work have been mounting.
throne alcove where the emperor listened court ladies were brought fine goods, which
To try to combat this, there is nowadays a 500m ‘exclusion zone’ around parts of the Taj
to petitioners, seated on the famous jewel- they could inspect in modesty from up above,
Mahal, which prevents motorised vehicles from getting any closer. Though, in practice, there’s
encrusted Peacock Throne. The throne itself standing on the small latticed balcony at the
still plenty of traffic around its south and west gates, the east gate is extremely peaceful. This
was looted in 1739 and taken to Persia, where rear of the mosque.
may not really help save the Taj, but it does mean that if you’re staying on its eastern side,
it was later destroyed. Further up on the terrace, overlooking
roughly between the Amarvilas and Hotel Sheela, you’ll likely be spared the traffic noise and
In front of the Diwan-i-Am is the small and the river and the distant Taj Mahal, is Takhti-
fumes right outside your window.
rather incongruous Gothic-style tomb of John i-Jehangir, a huge slab of black rock with an
 136 A G R A • • S i g h t s & A c t i v i t i e s lonelyplanet.com Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels A G R A • • T o u r s 137

inscription around its edge. This throne was at each corner and is built of red sandstone tered by offers of autorickshaw rides, guided TAJ GANJ 0
0
100 m
0.1 miles
made for the Emperor Jehangir when he was strikingly inlaid with white-marble geometric tours or boat rides across the river.
still just plain Prince Salim, apparently in patterns. The tomb itself lies in the centre of a
defiance of his father Akbar. It was from peaceful garden, where deer still graze much Taj Nature Walk INFORMATION
Aanee Bookshop..................................(see 1)
here that he sat and watched elephant fights as they did in Mughal times. Follow the stone pathways through this mini- iWay Internet......................................... 1 A5
in the enclosure below, and dreamed of fu- The mausoleum is located at Sikandra, wilderness (Off Map p137; Taj East Gate Rd; admission Rs Pharmacy................................................ 2 B5
Radhey Lal Colour Lab............................ 3 A4
ture glory. Facing the river, you’ll see the 10km northwest of Agra Fort. Getting there 50; h9am-6.30pm) exchanging Agra’s rumble UTI ATM................................................ 4 B4
Diwan-i-Khas (Hall of Private Audience) to is tricky but buses (Rs 10, 30 minutes) head- for a pleasant ramble among birds and but-
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES
your right, an incredibly ornately decorated ing to Mathura from Agra Fort bus station terflies, with the Taj hovering bewitchingly in Cycle-rickshaw & Autorickshaw Stand.... 5 A5
reception area reserved by the emperor for go past the mausoleum. Alternatively, an the background. East Gate Ticket Office........................... 6
Jawab..................................................... 7
B4
B3
important dignitaries or foreign representa- autorickshaw should cost Rs 120 for a re- Mosque.................................................. 8 A3
tives. Further on through the fort, the Shish turn journey including waiting time, (bear Jama Masjid (Friday Mosque) Museum................................................. 9
South Gate Ticket Office...................... 10
A4
B4
Mahal (Mirror Palace) was another structure in mind it can be a long journey) while a taxi This fine red-sandstone mosque (Map p132; West Gate Ticket Office....................... 11 A4
built for the ladies of the court, its walls in- will charge double. h sunrise-sunset except prayer times) was built in
AGRA

AGRA
SLEEPING
laid with tiny mosaic-work mirrors. This is 1648 by Shah Jahan and dedicated to his Hotel Kamal.......................................... 12 B5
sadly not currently open to the public, so Itimad-ud-Daulah favourite daughter, Jahanara. It was origi- Hotel Sheela......................................... 13 B4
Shanti Lodge........................................ 14 B5
you’ll have to crane your neck to catch a Nicknamed the Baby Taj (Map p132; %2080030; nally connected, by way of a large court- Mehtab
Bagh
EATING
glimpse through the window. Indian/foreigner Rs 15/110, video Rs 25; hsunrise-sunset), yard, to the fort’s main entrance, until the Joney's Place........................................ 15 A5
Up ahead, you’ll reach Musamman Burj and this is the exquisite tomb of Mizra Ghiyas British ran a railway line between the two in Shankara Vegis Restaurant................... 16 B5
Shanti Lodge Restaurant....................(see 14)
Khas Mahal, the wonderful white-marble oc- Beg, a Persian nobleman and Jehangir’s wazir the mid-1800s. Stuff Makers......................................(see 12)
tagonal tower and palace where Shah Jahan (chief minister). His daughter Nur Jahan, who Beneath the Jama Masjid are the busy local Yash Café............................................. 17 B5
a
was imprisoned by his own son and from married Jehangir, built the tomb between 1622 streets of the colourful Kinari Bazaar, where you DRINKING un
m er
which he could gaze wistfully out at the Taj and 1628, in a style similar to the tomb she can haggle for everyday goods. Beer Shop............................................. 18 B5 Ya Riv

Mahal, the tomb of his beloved wife. The Mina built for Jehangir himself, now near Lahore in TRANSPORT
Masjid was his own private mosque. Pakistan. Asmat Begum, Mizra Ghiyas Beg’s Swimming Raja Bicycle Store................................. 19 A5

To the east of Shar Jahan’s mosque, in the wife, is buried next to him. Many of its design Most swimming pools in Agra are reserved Taj
courtyard of the large harem quarters is Anguri elements – including its marble construction exclusively for guests of the hotels to which 8 Mahal 7

Bagh (Grape Garden), a charbagh garden that and pietra dura work – foreshadow the stu- they belong. Some will make an exception,
has been brought back to life and now looks pendous Taj itself. for a generally hefty fee: the best currently on
somewhat as it might have done in Shah offer are the Clarks Shiraz (p139; Rs 500) and
9
Jahan’s time. Chini-ka-Rauza Mughal Sheraton (p139; Rs 400) pools. To Agra
Fort (2km)
South from here, the huge red-sandstone This is the riverside tomb (Map p132; h6am-6pm)
Jehangir’s palace was possibly built by Akbar for of Afzal Khan, a Persian poet from Shiraz and TOURS Car
his son Jehangir or otherwise for Akbar’s own high official in the court of Shah Jahan. It was UP Tourism runs lightning-fast daily tours Shahjahan
Park
West
Gateway
13
Gate East
harem; the palace blends Hindu and Central built between 1628 and 1639, and is Agra’s (Indian/foreigner incl entry fees Rs 400/1700; hdaily ex- Park Gate Taj East G
ate

Rd
11 6

n
R
Asian architectural styles, a reminder of the only purely Persian-style building. Rather cept Friday) that leave the India Tourism office

ha
ja South d
a h ns Gate 10 4 To Taj Nature
Sharde
Mughals’ Afghani cultural roots. In front neglected these days, it’s hidden away down at 9.45am and Agra Cantonment train station G 3 Walk (50m);
Amarvilas (450m);
1 18
of the palace is Hauz-i-Jehangir, a huge bowl a shady avenue of trees. Bright-blue tiles still between 10.20am and 10.30am. The tour in- 12
14 17
Taj Plaza (500m);
Hotel Sheela
15
carved out of a single block of stone, prob- cover part of the exterior, giving an indica- cludes the Taj Mahal, Agra Fort and Fatehpur Inn (800m);
Shilpgram (1km);
ably used for the emperor’s bathing, when tion of how it once must have looked, and Sikri with an hour-and-a-quarter stop in each Bazaar
16 2 Trident Hilton (1.5km)

it would have been filled to the brim with the interior is painted in floral designs. The place; for Rs 550 you can also join just for the 19
rose-water. It’s said, though hard to believe, upper storey offers fine views. afternoon portion to Fatehpur Sikri. Tours 5
that the emperor liked to lug this thing around return to the station so that day-trippers
with him on his travels, beating a bar of soap Mehtab Bagh can catch the Taj Express back to Delhi at
and a travel towel hands-down. This park (Map p132; Indian/foreigner Rs 5/100; hsunrise 6.55pm. Contact either of the UP Tourism
-sunset), which attempts to recreate a Mughal- offices or the India Tourism office (p133) to
Akbar’s Mausoleum style garden, is situated opposite the Taj book a seat.
This outstanding sandstone and marble tomb Mahal, on the northern bank of the Yamuna Budget
(Off Map p132;%2641230; Indian/foreigner Rs 10/110, video River. Though pretty, it’s really only worth vis- SLEEPING The main centre for budget accommodation is
Rs 25; hsunrise-sunset) commemorates Akbar, the iting for its wonderful views of the back of the Agra, as you might expect, has plenty of hotels, Taj Ganj. Prices listed here are for rooms with
greatest of the Mughal emperors, who had it Taj. Alternatively, walk down to the Yamuna but there’s a lack of decent midrange accom- private bathrooms, Western-style toilets and
built himself, and was responsible for its curi- River on the path that runs alongside the park modation and prices rise steeply towards the hot water, except where indicated. In sum-
ous mixture of styles. The huge courtyard is and view the Taj without any tourist crowds in top end. If you’re on a midrange budget, you mer, budget hotels tend to provide hot water
entered through its stunning Buland Darwaza a peaceful ambience of buffaloes and wading might decide to save a few rupees by going for in a bucket, whereas in winter it arrives more
(Great Gate). It has three-storey minarets birds – though your peace may still be shat- one of the better budget choices. conveniently by pipe.
 138 A G R A • • S l e e p i n g Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels A G R A • • E a t i n g & D r i n k i n g 139

TAJ GANJ AREA tion or bus station with 24 hours’ notice. Also Room’ to a selection of lurid but airy suites. From October to March look out for gajak, a
Hotel Host (Map p137; %2331010; Taj West Gate; d from recommended are the trips around Rajasthan; There’s a good Indian restaurant, bar, pool, spicy sesame-seed biscuit-strip.
Rs 200, s/d without bathroom Rs 150/175) Though a bit ask for details and current prices. Ayurvedic health club and gym. Agra’s drinking choices are fairly limited
shabby on the outside, this is a cheap, service- outside the top-end hotel-bars, of which
able and solid-value Taj Ganj option, made OTHER AREAS Top End Amarvilas (Off Map p132; drinks Rs150-250; h11am-
more pleasant if you avoid the rather claus- Hotel Sakura (Map p132; %2420169; ashu_sakura@ Clarks Shiraz Hotel (Map p132; %2226121; www.hotel 11pm) is undoubtedly the best, with its ex-
trophobic windowless rooms. A perk for this yahoo.com; Ajmer Rd; d Rs 200-500; i) Another clarksshiraz.com; Taj Rd; s with Taj view Rs 4800-7100, d with Taj quisite terrace view of the Taj. There’s a
price range is that all rooms come with TV. long-running favourite with clean rooms view Rs 5200-7500; ais) Despite the evocative beer shop (Map p137; h10am-11pm) in Taj Ganj,
Shanti Lodge (Map p137; % 2231973; shanti and a very friendly owner. It’s close to Idgah name, this is a set of high-rise executive rooms which charges Rs 60 for a medium bottle
[email protected]; Taj South Gate; d from Rs 200, with bus stand, useful if you’re planning an early which are comfortable, cosy and equipped of Kingfisher.
AC from Rs 500; a) One of the most popular start. The restaurant is recommended – try with all mod cons. The hotel boasts a gym,
backpacker destinations in town, though the the butter chicken followed by a tasty kheer Ayurvedic massage, a bank, post office, shops Taj Ganj Area
rooms vary dramatically in quality; the best (rice pudding). and airline offices. Some parts of the hotel, Taj Ganj has plenty of budget rooftop res-
bets are in the hotel’s new section, where some Hotel Safari (Map p132; %2480106; hotelsafari@hot however, are better than others (the tower taurants, where the meals may be basic and
AGRA

AGRA
rooms come equipped with TV and the top- mail.com; Shamsabad Rd; s/d Rs 300/350, with AC Rs 400/450; wing has recently been refurbished). similar, but the views of the Taj range from
floor room has a Taj view. a) Owned by the same people as the Tourists Trident Hilton (Off map p132; %2331818; www.tri good to fantastic. In general, keep an eye on
Hotel Kamal (Map p137; %2330126; hotelkamal@ Rest House, this might lack the ambience of dent-hilton.com; Fatehabad Rd; d from US$130; ais) hygiene: a quick peep into the kitchen can
hotmail.com; Taj South Gate; s/d from Rs 300/400, with AC from the former, but it’s clean, comfortable and all A tranquil, relaxed top-end choice, with par- work wonders for your peace of mind. The
Rs 600/700; a) This hotel wins the competition rooms have TV. There’s a rooftop terrace with ticularly good reports of its pool and kids’ club places listed below are open from breakfast
for the best close-up view of the Taj from a distant view of the Taj and the atmosphere from travellers staying here with children. At (around 7am to 8am) to dinner (10pm to
its rooftop restaurant. Ask to see a number is relaxed. the time of research, this hotel was about to 11pm) unless otherwise stated.
of rooms, as they vary greatly regarding cease to be part of the Hilton chain, so it’s Joney’s Place (Map p137; mains Rs 20-40; h5am-
size, shape and amount of available natural Midrange worth bearing in mind that the service, and 10.30pm) This tiny travellers’ institution claims
light. The restaurant Stuff Makers (opposite) Agra has very few midrange hotels worth their the prices, could go up – or down. the best lassis in town, and is a good bet when
is recommended. tarrif card; most of them are clustered to- Mughal Sheraton (Map p132; %2331701; mughal the desire for hummus or a toasted sand-
Hotel Sheela (Map p137; %2333074; www.hotel gether in Fatehabad Rd. It’s well worth poking [email protected]; Fatehabad Rd; s/d/ste wich strikes – especially useful for hungry
sheelaagra.com; Taj East Gate Rd; d with fan/air cooler/AC around a few, to make sure you get the best US$150/160/400; ais) This sprawling red- early risers.
Rs 400/600/800; ai) Despite the lack of Taj possible deal. brick luxury hotel is set amid tranquil gar- Stuff Makers (Map p137; Hotel Kamal; meals Rs
views this is the best budget option in Taj Taj Plaza (Off Map p137; %2232515; www.hoteltajplaza dens that include a tree planted by actor Peter 25-70) Join the crowd on the rooftop ter-
Ganj due to its serene situation in the city’s .com; Taj East Gate Rd; s/d Rs 600/900, with AC Rs 1000/1200; O’Toole. Everything is shiny and elegant, and race with its fairy lights and great Taj
‘no-pollution zone’, its calm garden, clean a) A budget hotel gone upmarket, this place its Peshawri Restaurant (see p140) is especially views. The food is reliable, if uninspiring,
though spartan rooms, and helpful staff. The is small, clean and modern. Four of its pricier recommended. Invigorate with a game of ten- and includes old favourites such as tasty
shady restaurant (meals Rs 25 to Rs 70) is the AC rooms are recommended for their Taj nis or minigolf, and then have your fortune honey-and-banana pancakes.
perfect spot to sip a mixed-fruit lassi. views, as is the rooftop restaurant. read by the in-house astrologer. Shankara Vegis Restaurant (Map p137; meals Rs 25-
Hotel Sheela Inn (Off Map p137; %3293437; Taj East Hotel Ashish Palace (Map p132; % 2230032; Amarvilas (Off Map p137; %2231515; www.oberoi 70) This relaxed rooftop restaurant has no Taj
Gate Rd; d with fan/air cooler/AC Rs 500/600/800; a) An Fatehabad Rd; s/d Rs 1200/1500; a) Though it’s one hotels.com; Taj East Gate Rd; d from US$600, ste US$1350-3300; view but does have plenty of hearty vegetarian
offshoot of Hotel Sheela, it might lack the of the newer places on the Fatehabad Rd, its ais) A world-class hotel, considered the favourites, prepared in a clean kitchen open
atmosphere of its sister, but it’s nevertheless a rooms equipped with fridge, TV and even very best Agra – and, indeed, one of the best to public view, as well as good music and a
clean, smart and friendly option. The rooftop shower caps, travellers have recently reported India – has to offer. Suffused with Mughal sublime lassis.
restaurant has a nice view of the Taj, there’s that it’s starting to show telltale signs of wear style, some of the most expensive rooms Hotel Sheela (Map p137; mains Rs 30-90) Hotel
free luggage storage, and reliable 24-hour and tear. even have windows in the bathroom, so you Sheela’s shady garden café is one of the most
hot water. Hotel Atithi (Map p132; %2230040; www.hotel can soak your aching feet while regarding reliable options in the neighbourhood, with
atithi.com; Fatehabad Rd; s Rs 1600-1900, d Rs 1900-2500; the eternal Taj. If you’re not flush enough to consistently good reviews from travellers
SADAR BAZAAR as) Indoors, it’s not an exciting choice, shell out for an overnight stay, stop in at the for its simple dishes and unusual, yummy
oTourists Rest House (Map p132; %2463961; but the pool and lawn are the main draw here. beautiful bar for a drink or two, and enjoy the fruit-and-nut lassis.
[email protected]; Kutchery Rd; s Rs 150- There’s also a restaurant serving good Indian splendour without the price tag. Yash Café (Map p137; meals Rs 30-95) A very laid-
300, d Rs 250-350, s/d with AC 350/450; ai) Helpful food, where an evening meal will set you back back joint with a ’60s feel, Yash shows movies
owners, a secure atmosphere, and spotless Rs 400. EATING & DRINKING in the evening, offers a shower and storage
rooms grouped around a shady garden make Hotel Amar (Map p132; %2331884; www.hotel Agra is historically famous for its rich, fill- space to day visitors, and cooks up good-value
this place widely regarded as Agra’s best amar.com; Fatehabad Rd; s Rs 2500-4000, d from Rs 3000; ing Mughlai fare, and simpler delicious local veg and nonveg thalis.
budget option. Though nowhere near as well- ais) The hotel, so the website boasts, specialities can be found in the bazaars. Peitha Shanti Lodge Restaurant (Map p137; meals Rs 50-100)
placed for the Taj Mahal as places in Taj Ganj, ‘beholds you with ultimate comfort’. This is a square sweet made from pumpkin and A basic traveller-oriented restaurant but the
it’s still such a perennial favourite that you might be a bit much, but the rooms are cer- glucose flavoured with rose-water, coconut or food is reasonable and the rooftop Taj view is
need to book well ahead. There’s internet, TV tainly comfortable as well as colourful, rang- saffron, while dalmoth is Agra’s famous ver- fantastic, making it a good place for breakfast
in most rooms and free pickup from the sta- ing from an almost blindingly orange ‘Mughal sion of namkin (prepackaged spicy nibbles). before a day on your feet.
 140 A G R A • • S h o p p i n g lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com A G R A • • G e t t i n g A r o u n d 141

Sadar Bazaar SHOPPING run from 6.30am to 2.30pm daily, and cost Autorickshaws to look out for are the
Lakshmi Vilas (Map p132; Taj Rd; meals Rs 30-60; a) A Agra is well known for marble items inlaid Rs 174. Tickets can be booked at the Hotel green and yellow variety, which run on CNG
clean, popular South Indian restaurant with with coloured stones, similar to the pietra dura Sakura itself. (compressed natural gas) instead of petrol,
all your idli (spongy, round savoury rice cake) work on the Taj. Sadar Bazaar (Map p132), and so are far less polluting to Agra’s already
and uttapam (a thick dosa-like pancake) fa- Fatehabad Rd (Map p132), and the area around Train strained environment.
vourites. Over 30 dosa varieties are available, the Taj are all full of arts-and-craft emporiums Though Agra has six train stations, most trav-
including a ‘family dosa’, worth ordering if of one kind or another. Be careful, though, as ellers will only use either the Agra Cantonment Bicycle
only because it’s over a metre long. fake marble (usually soapstone, which you can (Cantt) train station (Map p132; %2421204) or the Bicycles can be hired from Raja Bicycle Store (Map
Tourists Rest House (Map p132; Kutchery Rd; meals Rs spot by the ease with which it scratches) is com- Agra Fort train station (Map p132). p137; per day Rs 50; h8am-8.30pm) but you’ll need
30-80) Nice, big breakfasts, great Indian dishes mon. Other popular buys include beautifully The Agra Cantt is an important stop on the nerves of steel and a desire to subject yourself
(including a winning malai kofta) and a lovely embroidered rugs and leather goods (Agra’s main Delhi–Mumbai line, with several trains to heat, dust and fumes in order to negotiate
garden location makes this hotel-restaurant a tanneries are big shoe producers). daily from both New Delhi and Nizamuddin obstacle-course roads.
cool, appealing retreat. Away from the usual tourist trappings, the train stations. The fastest is the AC Shatabdi
Park (Map p132; Sadar Bazaar; meals Rs 70-175; a) Kinari Bazaar (Map p132) is crowded and Express (chair/executive Rs 395/760, two Cycle-rickshaw
AGRA

AGRA
A popular wood-panelled AC dining room heady, vending to a largely local crowd. The hours) which runs daily except Fridays. It Best for short distances, this environmentally
with a long reputation among travellers, smaller bazaar south of Taj Ganj is much leaves New Delhi at 6.15am and departs from friendly form of transport is cheaper than
Park serves up Indian, Continental and calmer and tailors there will knock you up a Agra for the return trip at 8.30pm, making it using autorickshaws and provides an income
Chinese food with some particularly tasty pair of trousers for around Rs 200 or a shirt ideal for day-tripping. for some of the poorest employed sections
Mughlai dishes. for Rs 100. A cheaper alternative is the daily Taj Express of society. Rides should cost between Rs 20
Dasaprakash (Map p132; Gwalior Rd; meals Rs 70-180; About a kilometre along the traffic-quiet (2nd/chair car Rs 56/211, three hours). It and Rs 40, but can be excruciatingly slow and
a) Though not brimming with atmosphere, road from Taj East Gate is Shilpgram (Off Map p137; leaves Delhi’s Nizamuddin train station at stinky due to Agra’s traffic fumes.
this efficient South Indian restaurant chain h10am-10pm Oct-Mar), an open-air collection of 7.15am and departs from Agra for the return Nowadays, it’s possible to hire a brand
serves winning dosas (paper-thin lentil-flour stalls selling handicrafts and artworks that trip at 6.55pm, connecting with UP Tourism new model of cycle-rickshaw, courtesy of
pancakes) to loyal locals, along with generous also has a café and bar. Every February a week- daily tours (see p133). an Indian NGO and the US Agency for
thalis and indulgent ice-cream sundaes. long festival also takes place here (see p131). To Jaipur and Jodhpur, the Marudhar International Development. Lighter and
oZorba the Buddha (Map p132; Sadar Bazaar; Express leaves Agra Fort at 6.15am on more comfortable for the hard-working
meals Rs 80-150; hnoon-3pm & 6-9pm, closed Jun; a) GETTING THERE & AWAY Monday, Wednesday and Saturday, reaching driver to pedal, they can be rented from
Vases of flowers on neat little tables greet Air Jaipur (3AC/2AC Rs 330/473) at 11.30am, and outside many of the top-end hotels; a city
guests at this clean, quirky Osho-inspired Agra’s Kheria Airport is 7km from the city Jodhpur (3AC/2AC Rs 622/892) at 6.20pm. tour to the Taj, fort and Kinari Bazaar should
bistro-style vegetarian restaurant. The healthy centre. Kingfisher Airlines (%toll free within India cost around Rs 150.
food and herbal teas are designed to nurture 18001800101; www.flykingfisher.com) flies daily from GETTING AROUND
your soul as well as your body, while the ice Delhi to Agra (1 hour), departing Delhi at To/From the Airport Taxi
creams make a nice finishing touch if you feel 7.55am and Agra at 5pm. The return fare is For the short hop to Kheria Airport, taxis Outside Agra Cantonment train station is
you’ve been all too worthy. approximately US$185; it’s generally cheapest should charge about Rs 200 and autorick- the prepaid taxi booth (h24hr). The cost to any
to reserve tickets online. shaws Rs 100. five-star hotel is Rs 120 (AC Rs 150), while a
Other Areas three-hour tour costs Rs 300 (AC Rs 375) and
Only Restaurant (Map p132; the Mall; mains Rs 60-225; a) Bus Autorickshaw a four-hour tour is Rs 450 (AC Rs 650). An
This bamboo-lined, cosy restaurant is often Most long-haul and deluxe buses connect- Just outside Agra Cantonment train station is eight-hour tour is Rs 650 (AC Rs 950), costing
packed with happy tour groups and has live ing Agra with Delhi and Rajasthan depart the prepaid autorickshaw booth (Map p132; h24hr). Rs 950 (AC Rs 1400) if it includes Fatehpur
music every evening from 7pm in the sum- from and arrive at Idgah bus station (Map p132; The official rates here are Rs 15 for a short Sikri. A four-hour trip to Fatehpur Sikri costs
mer. Your best bets are the Mughlai dishes or %2420324; Ajmer Rd). Hourly buses run to 1km ride, Rs 30 to Sadar Bazaar and Rs 50 to Rs 700 (AC Rs 900). A return trip to the
tandoori options. Delhi’s Sarai Kale Khan bus station (Rs 105, Taj Ganj. A three-hour tour to the Taj Mahal Keoladeo Ghana National Park at Bharatpur
Peshawri (Map p132; Mughal Sheraton; h12.30- five hours) via Mathura (Rs 30, 1½ hours). and Agra Fort return costs Rs 160, a four-hour (p188) costs Rs 950 including waiting time.
2.45pm & 7.30-11.30pm; mains from Rs 500; a) One of Hourly buses also depart from here to Jaipur tour Rs 200 and an eight-hour tour Rs 300. A Further afield, one way to Delhi is Rs 2500,
the best, if priciest, North Indian dining op- (Rs 105, six hours) and frequent local buses round trip including waiting time to Sikandra and Jaipur Rs 2700. As with autorickshaws,
tions in the city, this restaurant serves particu- head to Fatehpur Sikri (Rs 18, one hour) and for Akbar’s Mausoleum is likely to cost Rs however, it may be hard to actually secure a
larly tasty tandoori and North-West Frontier Bharatpur (Rs 31, 1½ hours). 120. Autorickshaws are not allowed to go to ride for these prices, so you’ll have to drive a
barbeque dishes. A few services also depart and arrive at Fatehpur Sikri or within the ‘exclusion zone’ hard bargain.
Esphahan (Off Map p137; Amarvilas; mains from Rs 550; Agra Fort bus station (Map p132; Power House bus station; around the Taj Mahal (see p134), so you’ll
a) Though nonresidents have reported it %2364557). Buses leave here for Delhi (Rs 105, need to take a bus or taxi. Other Transport
hard to get a reservation, it’s worth persisting five hours) via Mathura (Rs 29, 1½ hours). Note, however, that it’ll be nigh on impos- Environmentally friendly electric buses (Rs 5;
if you’re in the mood for top-of-the-range Official Rajasthan government deluxe buses sible to find a driver willing to conform to hevery 15min 6am-7pm) ply the route between the
North Indian Avadhi cuisine in sumptuous (Map p132) depart hourly (on the half-hour) these rates. Have your best haggling hat on, Taj Mahal west gate and Agra Fort, another
surroundings. You can choose to dine at one from outside Hotel Sakura (p138), and drop since you’ll generally be quoted around 100% good way of reducing your environmental
of two sittings – 7pm or 9.30pm. you off at the main bus station in Jaipur. They over the odds for any trip. impact on Agra.
 142 A R O U N D A G R A • • Fa t e h p u r S i k r i lonelyplanet.com Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels A R O U N D A G R A • • Fa t e h p u r S i k r i 143

AROUND AGRA contains elements of Persian and Hindu

design. The main entrance is through the
FATEHPUR SIKRI 0
0
200 m
0.1 miles

impressive 54m-high Buland Darwaza (Victory To Old City

FATEHPUR SIKRI Gate), perhaps the largest in Asia, built to
Ruins (50m)
Chahar Suq
(Tansen Baradari)
%05613 / pop 28,750 commemorate Akbar’s military victory in Old City
To Agra Gate
This magnificent fortified ghost city, 40km Hiran Minar
(400m); Bus Stand
Gujarat. A Quranic inscription inside the (400m); Agra (40km)
west of Agra, was the Mughal Empire’s short- Mint
archway quotes Jesus saying: ‘The world is a Baoli Diwan-i-Khas
lived capital between 1571 and 1585, during
bridge, pass over it but build no house upon Ladies Treasury Diwan-
the reign of Akbar. Although brilliant and Garden i-Am
it. He who hopes for an hour may hope for Hathi Astrologer's
unusual from an architectural point of view, Caravanserai Pol Kiosk Diwan-i-Am Ticket
eternity’, which seems appropriate consider- Panch Pachisi Office & Entrance To Agra Gate
Akbar’s city was erected in an area that suf- Mahal Courtyard (400m); Bus Stand
ing the fate of the city. Palace of the Rumi Sultana
(400m); Agra (40km)
fered from water shortages and thus is said to Christian Wife
Inside the courtyard is the superb white- Birbal Ornamental Gulistan Tourist
have been abandoned shortly after his death, Bhavan Pool Complex
marble tomb of Shaikh Salim Chishti, completed Palace
making the name ‘Fatehpur’, meaning ‘city of
in 1581. Just as Akbar came to the saint four Jodh
of victory’, somewhat of an irony. The well-
AGRA

AGRA
Lower Bai
centuries ago hoping for a son, childless Haramsara
preserved palace buildings and the still-used Stonecutters'
women still visit his tomb today and tie a Mosque
mosque are the main points of interest.
thread to the jalis (marble lattice screens), Jodh Bai Ticket
Most people visit this World Heritage site Office & Entrance
ra
Rd
among the finest in India. Ag
as a day trip from Agra, but it’s worthwhile Tomb of Shaikh
staying in the nearby town if you have the Salim Chishti Tomb of
Islam Khan
Shahi Darwaza

time, since the red-sandstone palaces are PALACES & PAVILIONS Jama Masjid

at their most atmospheric at sunset. See The first of the palace buildings (Indian/foreigner Rs Goverdhan
Hotel
p360 for details of Eid al-Fitr celebrations 20/260, video Rs 25; hsunrise-sunset) you enter from Well Buland
Train Station
Darwaza
at the site. the south is the largest, the Palace of Jodh Bai. Steps Hotel Ajay
Palace
Constructed around a courtyard, it blends Bazaar
Bus
Orientation & Information Hindu columns, Islamic cupolas and blue
Bazaar
Stand
Clock
The palace buildings lie on the top of a ridge, Persian roof tiles. Tower
with the town of Fatehpur Sikri just to the The Palace of the Christian Wife was used by
south. The Jama Masjid and the ruins near Akbar’s Goan Christian wife Mariam, and
it and behind the mint can be visited for free. you can see the remains of the paintings that
Swarms of unofficial guides pester visitors, de- used to cover the inside. Birbal Bhavan, ornately Each of the storeys decreases in size until the ing merchants used to stay, and the bizarre
manding a ridiculous fee of Rs 300, but if you carved inside and out, was probably used by top one consists of only a tiny kiosk. The lower 21m-high Hiran Minar tower that’s decorated
want a guide it’s best to hire an official one two of Akbar’s senior wives. floor has 84 columns, which are all different. with hundreds of stone representations of
near a ticket office, which should cost Rs 50 The function of the Lower Haramsara is con- The Treasury has sea monsters, intended elephant tusks. Badly defaced elephants still
to Rs 100. The purpose of many buildings is troversial – it may have housed servants but to protect the fabulous wealth once stored guard Hathi Pol (Elephant Gate), while the re-
uncertain and you can safely assume that much looks more like stables for the horses, camels there, carved onto the ceiling struts, while mains of the small Stonecutters’ Mosque and a
of what guides will tell you is invented. and elephants. the so-called Astrologer’s Kiosk in front has hammam (bath) are nearby.
The most ornate structure is the amazing its roof supports carved into a serpentine
Sights Rumi Sultana, whose surface is covered with Jain style. Sleeping & Eating
JAMA MASJID intricate carving. The Diwan-i-Khas (Hall of Private Audience) Hotel Ajay Palace (%282950; Agra Rd; d Rs 300, without
The beautiful, expansive Jama Masjid (Dargah The whimsical Panch Mahal is a five-storey has an interior dominated by a magnificently bathroom Rs 200) Rooms in this small four-room
Mosque; hsunrise-sunset), completed in 1571, pavilion that was used by the court ladies. carved stone column in the centre. The pillar guesthouse near the bus stand have squat
flares to create a flat-topped plinth linked to toilets, but are neat and clean, and the place
the four corners of the room by narrow stone receives regular praise from travellers. The
SAVE THE BEARS bridges, from where Akbar is believed to have restaurant (meals Rs 20 to Rs 80) has the best
debated with scholars who stood at the ends of food in town – try the fried eggplant, then fin-
India’s first sanctuary for ‘dancing’ bears was established by the World Society for the Protection
the four bridges. Outside is the Pachisi Courtyard ish off with the kheer (rice pudding).
of Animals (WSPA; www.wspa.org.uk) in 2002 with help from the UP Forestry Department and Free
where Akbar is said to have played the game Goverdhan Hotel (%282643; www.hotelfatehpur
the Bears (www.freethebears.org.au). The 8-hectare Agra Bear Rescue Facility site is inside the Sur
pachisi using slave girls as pieces. sikriviews.com; Agra Rd; s Rs 250-600, d Rs 400-750; ai)
Sarovar Bird Sanctuary, 17km west of Agra and provides a refuge for more than 130 sloth bears,
The Diwan-i-Am (Hall of Public Audience) The Goverdhan proclaims, on its website,
rescued from local Qalander gypsies who previously forced them to ‘dance’ in return for money
is where Akbar dispensed justice ‘with- ‘Cleanliness is Our Strength’; some rooms
from onlookers. This cruel entertainment is illegal in India but still enslaves some 800 bears, though
out harshness or ill-will’, according to the have decidedly odd décor, but are, as they are
ongoing efforts are being made to save them and re-educate the Qalanders; some young Qalander
information board. at pains to point out, clean. The restaurant
men are even employed to look after the bears at the facility. Visits to the sanctuary are limited
Plenty of ruins are scattered behind the serves up good Indian food cooked with fil-
so as not to disturb the bears during their rehabilitation period, but can be arranged through
mosque, including the caravanserai, a vast tered water, and in case you need to work up
Wildlife SOS (%011 246 21939 in Delhi; www.wildlifesos.com). Also see Animal Welfare, p83.
courtyard surrounded by rooms where visit- an appetite, there’s a badminton court.
 © Lonely Planet Publications
144 A R O U N D A G R A • • Fa t e h p u r S i k r i lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com 145

Gulistan Tourist Complex (%282490; Agra Rd; s/d 18, one hour) from Agra’s Idgah bus station;
Rs 525/600, with AC Rs 850/950; a) Operated by UP buses depart every 30 minutes between 7am
Tourism and slightly run-down, Gulistan has and 7pm. Be sure your bus heads directly to
a restaurant, bar, and gardens. The rooms can Fatehpur Sikri town, rather than to Bharatpur,
be quite dark and gloomy, though, so see a few since the latter will drop you near Agra Gate,
before you decide. a 1km walk from the monuments. The last
Fatehpur Sikri’s culinary speciality is bus back to Agra from the bazaar bus stand
khataie, tasty biscuits you can see piled high leaves at 7pm.
in the bazaar. Try them freshly baked in Autorickshaws are not allowed to travel
the evening. from Agra to Fatehpur Sikri; a taxi should
cost around Rs 700 return including waiting
Getting There & Away time.
Tour buses usually stop for 1½ hours, which Buses from the bazaar bus stand leave regu-
isn’t really long enough to explore thoroughly. larly for Bharatpur (Rs 15, 30 minutes) and
AGRA

Make a day of it, instead, by catching a bus (Rs Jaipur (Rs 80, 4½ hours).

© Lonely Planet Publications. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally
restricted. In return, we think it’s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes
only. In other words, please don’t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to
everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying
the above - ‘Do the right thing with our content.’