How To Build a Shed with a Slanted Roof [Step-by-Step

Guide]
plasticinehouse.com/how-to-build-slanted-roof-style-shed-guide/

April 20, 2018

The completed shed with a slanted

roof image first. Slant roof style is
also known as a skillion, shed
or lean-to. It is a single sloping
roof and can be thought of as half
of a pitched roof.

When I was in the process of moving to my new house, I knew that I couldn’t take my
shed with me. It was my first one! It was a 6×8 beauty with a gable roof and a double
door. It took almost 6 months (ugh) for me to complete. I was devastated!

To make up for my loss, I consoled myself with the knowledge that I’d need to build a
new storage shed to house all my stuff. I’d accumulated a snow blower, lawn mower,
generator and much more. It would be my second shed in 2 years. My new baby!

In this post, I’ll walk you through the step-by-step process of building my new shed
from scratch.
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How to Build a Slanted Roof Shed: Step by Step

Step 1: Gathering Requirements

As I began thinking about my new shed, I considered my needs. I decided to build a
bigger shed with more space. I wouldn’t have to move the lawn mower to get to the
ladder, or the snowblower to dig out the generator. I’d even have space to store some
building materials instead of in the garage.

I planned out my requirements; I didn’t want any fancy features or dormers. I wanted
something practical. Thinking about my other shed, I made a list:

Roof:

Due to the climate and a lot of snow, it needed a greater slope.

Something easy and practical I could build on my own.
Easy to install roofing materials.

Foundation:

I didn’t want my shed sitting on the ground.

Elevated would mean drier and it would last longer.

Siding:

Easy and cheap to install.

Step 2: Check Local Law Restriction

My first step was to look up the local building regulations for some answers:

Do I need a building permit?

What is the greatest size shed I can build without, and with, a permit?
Are there any restrictions on building materials?
Any setbacks?
Is there a maximum height for a shed?
Any requirements on door widths?

I then checked with the local utilities to ensure my shed wouldn’t interfere with their
services. To be safe, I also checked with my neighborhood association to see if they had
any restrictions.

According to my town regulations, I could build a shed up to 10×14 without a

building permit. I emailed the local building department to see how they measure the
shed size; by outside perimeter foundation footprint, or the roof projection.

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They responded quickly and politely. They confirmed that I didn’t need any permits and
included other helpful information. The size of the shed would be calculated by the
foundation footprint. Also, the maximum height of a shed, measured from ground
level to the highest peak of the roof, is set at 14′ and must never exceed the height of the
house.

The regulations allowed a storage shed to be built in the side yard, backyard, or in the
rear setback; but never over the septic field. Included in their reply was also a list of
approved materials for exterior siding which was useful.

Step 3: Choose Size and the Style of the Shed

Here’s my setup: I reviewed what I needed to fit in the shed today, considered a few
wants for the future, looked at my budget, and came up with the size. I’d seen a lot of
sheds but had some specific ideas in mind, after doing some research; I came up with
my shed style.

Size

I decided to take full advantage of the regulations and build a 10 x 14 shed.

Shed style

I wanted a simple roof. I didn’t want ridges or valleys which are a lot of work and can
leak. I decided on a Slanted Roof. It’s similar to a shed or lean-to roof, or a clerestory
roof, but has one visible difference. It has a greater slope. Basically, a slanted roof style
is a flat roof tilted high up at one edge to create a very steep slope.

Advantages:

Significantly cheaper to build than a gable or multi-slope roof since there’s less
material in the roof.
No ridges or valleys to leak.
Faster and easier to build. No complicated angles or cuts.
A higher wall on one side for ladders or storage.
Clear roof space without truss or rafters.
Sheds rain and snow quickly.

Disadvantages:

Expensive to convert a mono pitched roof to a multi-slope roof since all walls need
to become the same height.
Snow can build up against the lower roof wall and cause dampness or rot in the
wall.
Fast run-off of rain or snow can cause ground erosion behind the shed.

Step 4: Determine a Location for the Shed

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The next step is the most important part: find the best location for my shed.

The building regulations require the shed to be a minimum of 5’ from the property line,
5’ from the house, and 5’ from any other buildings.

I decided to place my shed 7’ from the fence with my neighbor. It would hide their shed
and give the trees room to grow. It also placed the shed closer to my driveway which
would make it easier to get my snow blower into action.

Step 5: Prepare the Construction Site

Once I decided on the site for my shed, I cleared the area of ground cover. I added 2’ on
each side of the shed perimeter and hammered in wooden stakes at the corners to give
me the area I needed. I removed any sod and the top layer of soil, and then slightly
compacted the site to pack down any loose soil.

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Step 6: Build Shed Foundation
One of the important decisions when building a shed is the foundation. It provides a
flat, level, stable base on which to build your shed. The foundation also helps to keep
the shed off the ground preventing dampness and rot.

I decided to use concrete deck blocks like I’d used on my first shed. I used
adjustable 4×4 steel deck supports which fit into the deck blocks to make leveling
easier. I found these on sale at my local home improvement store but you can find
similar deck supports on Amazon.

Why I choose this type of foundation?

Easy to build a stable base for the shed

An inexpensive base, even with the ground preparation and gravel.
The shed is off the ground allowing underneath ventilation and clean storage
on the gravel.
The main benefit, it’s very easy to level the base during the construction. Also,
if the ground settles and any of the blocks sink the steel deck supports make it easy
to re-level.

Here’s the plan of foundation

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I used 24 deck blocks and 24 adjustable 4×4 deck supports. I wanted to make sure
nothing would make the floor sag…ever! I could almost store a tank in my shed!

If I were to do it again, I’d reduce the number of blocks and supports by half and add
galvanized joist hangers for blocking to add structural rigidity to the floor frame. The
total and linear load for #2 grade 2×6 on a 4’ span is 303 pounds per linear foot.

It is an excellent foundation for motorcycle sheds or sheds with heavy machinery, like a
lawn tractor, but for my needs it was overkill.

Once I had the deck blocks and the adjustable 4×4 supports, I needed to incorporate the
supports into the blocks. Using concrete mix and following the step by step process I
secured the supports into the blocks.

Here are the steps:

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Picture 1: Clean any loose material from the patio blocks.
Picture 2: Clean any oils or grease off the adjustable 4X4 support.
Picture 3: Disassemble the support.

Picture 4: This is how I chose to install the supports.

Picture 5: With the supports installed this way there would be more rigidity and
greater support.
Picture 6: To keep concrete out of the bolt column I taped it closed.

Picture 7 & 8: Wet the concrete block to form a better connection with the new
concrete. Fill the hole and slots in the deck block, then push the taped end of the 4×4
support into the hole in the concrete block.

Picture 9: Ensure the support plate is angled so it is resting on the concrete block as
well as the new concrete. Clean up any mess and smooth the fresh concrete. Now let the
concrete cure.

I recommend laying out all the blocks together and doing the same step to each block
before moving to the next step.
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While the blocks are curing, put down the garden cloth and spread out a level layer
of gravel.

I laid out the deck blocks according to the plan where they would line up with the floor
structure. Leveled the blocks and used the adjustable supports to level the floor
structure.

Related: How to Build Shed Base with Deck Blocks

Step 7: Build Shed Floor

Now the fun and work begin!

What You’ll Need :

Tape Measure
48-Inch Level
Circular Saw or Miter Saw
Nail Gun

Gather the tools you’ll need so you don’t have to go looking for them later: hammer,
saw, level, wrench, screwdriver, tape measure and pencil. Have the nails and screws
handy too.

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You don’t need any fancy tools, but a chop saw makes short work of cuts and angles and
a circular saw is great for cutting plywood. I also got really lucky; my local home
improvement store was liquidating Paslode Impulse cordless framing nailers. I was able
to score one and it saved me a lot of time.
The floor frame was actually simple; 6 pressure treated 2x6x14’ and 2 pressure treated
2x6x10’ planks. My local supplier didn’t have any 14’ planks so I got 16’ instead. I knew
the extra lumber wouldn’t go to waste.

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The adjustable 4×4 deck supports are designed for true 4×4 lumber so I needed to add
spacers. The leftover pieces from the 2x6x16’s came in handy.

I sealed the end cuts with CopperCoat Green wood preservative.

To secure the adjustable supports, joists and blocks together, I used #8 x 2 in. deck
screws. It is a good idea to check that the joist structure is square before securing it.

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I added pressure treated 2×6 blocks about every 4’ to create a grid style floor base. The
blocks prevent the floor joists from twisting under load and provide more support so
there’d be less bounce between the joists. I used my new nailer to fastening the boards
and blocking with ring shank galvanized framing nails. Definitely a time saver!

The grid created by the blocking.

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Before I began to attach the 3/4 inch pressure treated plywood, I again checked that the
floor structure was square and level.

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A 10×14 base means some the plywood would have to be cut. I also didn’t want to have
to crawl around under the shed someday to tighten the adjustable 4×4 supports.

With this in mind, I planned the layout for the plywood so I can remove 2 inside pieces

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and have access to all the inner blocks.

I used #8×2 inch deck screws to fasten the plywood. All I have to do to adjust any of the
inside supports is remove one or both of the plywood pieces and tighten or loosen the
necessary nut(s).

Step 8: Building the Walls

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When planning my shed I determined where windows and the doors would go. I
decided on 2×4 lumber on 16-inch centers for the walls, and 2×6 for the rafters. I’d also
need 2×6 lumber for the window and door headers. I then laid out the stud plan for the
wall construction. This made it easier to make a materials list of what needed to be
purchased.

There are several methods to purchase lumber. You can call your local supplier and
have them deliver the materials on your list. This works great if you don’t have access to
a truck or a trailer. But, you get what they pick which may not be what you’d pick if
doing it yourself. There may also be a delivery charge.

If you have access to a truck or trailer, then you can pick your lumber…usually. Some
lumber yards don’t want you handing the lumber for various reasons. Most Box Stores
allow you to pick your own lumber though. If you can pick your own lumber, here are a
number of things to watch for.

Twists: Look along the narrow edge of the lumber, if it has a noticeable twist, put it
back. It will be difficult to straighten and makes attaching drywall or sheathing difficult.

Bend: Look along the narrow edge again, if the lumber bends slightly to the left or
right, it is still usable. It can straighten with blocking, or when nailed or screwed to a
straight piece; as in a doubling up for a trimmer or corner.

Warped, Curved, or Arched: Look along the flat length of the lumber. If the lumber
bends slightly to the left or right it will form an arch or a dip horizontally. It is still
useable for joists or the trusses/rafters, not great as a stud. Ensure they are laid arch up;
the weight of the floor or roof material (gravity) may pressure it straight.

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Pro Tip: Buy extra lumber for blocking (noggins) the walls at the 4-foot height. It keeps
the studs from twisting and gives wood to nail sheathing or drywall to. It also provides
shelving between the studs.

Pro Tip: Always measure the dimensions of your lumber. If you need 12 feet and get 10
instead, you won’t be happy.

With the lumber at the build site, I was ready to begin. Using the plywood floor as a
work table, I paired the top and bottom plate for the back wall side by side flat on the
deck.

I ensured they were 14 feet long, then following my stud plan I marked where the studs
would go, drawing the lines with a small rafter square; marking an X on the correct side
of the line where the stud would go.

I carefully measured one stud and cut it to length; remembering that for a 6-ft. wall
height I needed to subtract a double top plate and the sill plate. Using that stud, I
marked the rest of the studs for that wall and cut them too.

I then laid out the studs between the top and bottom plate, lined them up with the
marks, and reached for my hammer. My handy dandy nailer made short work of nailing
the plates to the studs. Once the wall was built, I slid it off the deck and leaned it out of
the way against the fence.

I used the same process to build the windowless side wall. Remembering to cut the top
and bottom plates 7 inches short of 10 feet so they fit between the front and back walls.

The studs were the same length as those in the back wall. After nailing it together, I
ensured it was square and nailed two opposing diagonal 2x4s to hold it square. Nailing
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it to each stud and plate it crossed. I then slid it out of the way and leaned it against the
tree.

Pro Tip: Use screws to attach the diagonal braces, easier to remove.

The side wall with the window had a few differences. I used a double 2×6 header above
the window. Sandwiched between the 2x6s I used ½” plywood spacers.

The header transfers the weight of the structure above the window and carries it
through the king stud-trimmer stud combination to the floor. The distance between the
header and the rough sill and the two trimmer studs is the rough opening for the 27 ½”
x 27” high window.

Don’t forget the cripple studs between the rough sill and the bottom plate of the wall.
After careful measuring and cutting, I repeated the steps followed for the other end wall.

The last wall was the tallest (9 feet) and heaviest wall with the most openings. Once
built it would be the first to erect. I laid out the bottom plate and marked the stud
locations, including king and trimmer studs for the door and window.

This window would be 27 ½” x 37 high. Regulations restricted door size at a maximum

of 6 feet; so I framed the rough opening for a 76 ½” high x 6’ wide door.

I framed the two ends of this wall with triple studs. The outer stud connected the end of
the top plate and bottom plate. The middle supported the end of the top plate to the
bottom plate.

And the inner stud supported the double sill plate of the upper windows, which acted as
the top plate for the studs. I used a double 2×6 header above the door and the window
with plywood spacers sandwiched between.

Using the skillion roof design meant I could have windows up near the eves. The top
plate for the big wall I rotated on edge and used ½” spacers between the two 2x4s.

This made the 2x4s a header to carry the roof weight above the high windows, and also a
top plate. I used double 2x4s to support the stud wall top plate and the wall top
plate/beam.

The double 2×4 supports were equally spaced across the wall creating 5 openings 29 ¾”
wide x 14 ¾” high. Once I had this wall together, I ensured it was square and again
nailed two opposing diagonal 2x4s to hold it square. I was now ready to stand the walls
up.

Four stud corner: I used a four-stud corner to create a strong corner and post for
supporting the roof. This configuration also provides more material for nailing exterior
sheathing to, and provides support for attaching interior drywall (if needed).

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Attach blocks along the perimeter of the floor to prevent the wall from sliding off the
base as you lift it into position.

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The Challenge: How to raise the heavy front wall alone (without a helper)?

My Solution: With a car jack!

I realize there are other ways to lift a wall by yourself, and mine wasn’t maybe the
safest, but it was creative and it worked. No matter what method you choose, know your
escape routes to safety!

On a day that wasn’t windy, I lifted the top edge of the wall and put some blocks under
it. Once it was high enough off the floor, I slid the car jack under it.
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I secured a couple of straps to the upper beam so I could prevent the wall from leaning
out once it was up. I used cut-offs from building the wall so I had different lengths for
bracing and lifting. Before each lift with the car jack, I ensure it wouldn’t roll too.

Next time I’ll attach a long 2×4 brace on the outside of both ends and lay it out on the
ground so that they drag in toward the foundation as the wall lifts.

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As the wall lifts, higher they act as braces too.

With the wall vertically leveled, I secured diagonal braces to the upper part of the wall
and to stakes hammered into the ground.

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Once the big wall was level and secured in place, I nailed the bottom plate to the floor. I
then lifted the end walls into place, leveling and nailing them to the floor and front wall.

I placed the bottom plate of the back wall onto the floor. Nailed in perimeter blocks to
prevent it from falling off the floor, and lifted the wall up until it butted into the two end
walls.

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I attached nailing blocks to the floor deck and leveled and braced the walls. The gable
ends were built in place on the end walls.

Related: Shed Insulation Guide

Step 9: Shed Wall Sheathing

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I used 23/32 in. x 4 ft. x 8 ft. T&G OSB to sheath the walls with 2” deck screws to fasten
them in place. It was a bit of fun installing it alone. 4 ft. x8 ft. sheathing fits horizontally
or vertically on 16” center stud walls.

I went vertically for two reasons. I wouldn’t have to lift up a sheet to sit on another
sheet; and less chance of moisture sitting on a vertical seam vs a horizontal seam.

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Pro Tip: Attach a level plank or block to the perimeter of the platform face at the
height the sheathing will start. This provides a rest for the sheathing to sit on and frees
up a hand or two for fitting the T&G and for fastening.

Pro Tip: Ensure the groove is clear and open before putting the sheet up; saves a lot of
frustration.

I used felt paper (tar paper) to wrap the walls for several reasons. Tar paper is cheaper
and dries faster than Typar. A 3’x72’ roll of #15 felt paper costs around $15, a 3’x100’
roll of Typar is about $50 in my local. I used 2 rolls of felt paper.

I began wrapping the shed at the bottom and worked my way up; overlapping the top
layer over the bottom to shed any moisture away from the wood.

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I used a hand stapler and a lot of galvanized staples. Next time I’ll use a hammer
stapler, it’s easier on the hand.

Step 10: Build a Skillion Roof

The material you chose to cover your roof with is very important. It is what keeps water
or snowmelt from percolating through into your shed. It protects the wood of your shed
from rot and bug and rodent damage, and from the elements. An important decision
with many choices; asphalt, steel, aluminum, clay, slate, or cedar shake.

There are advantages and disadvantages to all roofing materials, do your research and
make your decision. I chose asphalt shingles. The price was right, color acceptable, and
with the single slope roof design and direction my shed faced, only my neighbor would
see them.

Advantages:

Cheap! Asphalt shingles are one of the least expensive roofing materials. They
frequently go on sale too.
Easy installation even for a beginner. Follow the instructions on the bundle
wrapper or check out videos online.
Asphalt shingles are widely available in different colors and textures.

Disadvantages:

Will degrade with time; may last 7 to 20 years before needing to be replaced.
Are a petroleum product so an environmental issue and cost when disposing of
them.
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 Susceptible to wind and heat damage. They transfer the solar gain into your
building.

Ventilation

If your shed is fairly airtight, you’ll need to put in ventilation; especially if storing
gasoline or pesticides in it. No sense poisoning yourself. Add a vent in each gable end
near the roof line.

This allows cross ventilation and the roof overhang adds some protection to the vents. I
went with the natural ventilation through the gaps between the roof and the walls. I may
need to screen them to keep bugs and critters out though.

The Roof

I used 2x6x16ft pine for the rafters.

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Angle cut the ends, notched for the walls, then installed them at 16” centers.

Simpson Strong-Tie 18-gauge hurricane ties to help secure each rafter.

I built ladder ends to go over the gables for the overhang at each end. I then added
blocking between each rafter every 4 ft. to support the edges of the sheathing, and to
prevent the rafters from twisting under snow load.

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The fascia boards across the ends of the rafters prevent twisting and provide a finished
edge.

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I sheathed the roof with 23/32 in. x 4 ft. x 8 ft. T&G OSB. A fun challenge is doing it
alone. I covered the OSB with tar paper; starting across the low edge first and working
in overlapping layers to the high edge.

I left enough to fold over the fascia boards. I used aluminum nails to attach the
aluminum drip edge. The aluminum fascia slides up under the drip edge and is attached
to the fascia board with aluminum nails. It often hangs ½” below the fascia board and
the soffit sits on the bottom lip.

Follow the instructions on the shingle wrapper for proper installation. I used 1½”
electro-galvanized roofing nails to attach the shingles.

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Pro Tip: Before lifting sheathing onto the roof, build yourself a “ladder”. Lean and
secure two 2x4s or 2x6s planks against the fascia board of the low wall; angled from the
ground to the roof.

Attach a horizontal “step” to the two planks upon which to rest the sheathing. The wider
the “step”, the more pieces it will hold. Place several pieces of sheathing onto the step so
the stick up above the roof line. You can then stand on the wall top plate or the rafters
and lift each piece up as needed; less going up and down a ladder.

Pro Tip: Use pressure treated lumber for the fascia boards and end rafters.

Step 11: Build Double Shed Doors

Ever scraped your knuckles trying to carry something through a door?

I built my shed with a 6’ wide double door since it was the largest the Regulations
allowed. I can open one or both. It’s much easier to move equipment in or out of the
shed.

Mine open outward, so I don’t waste storage space inside. Also, it’s easy to seal against
the elements and rodents. And I don’t scrape my knuckles.

Remember to cut the sill plate out of your doorway.

I decided to build my own door. I used 1x6x8ft T&G knotty pine for the door. The T&G
has low shrinkage, and shouldn’t have gaps or warps in the future. The cross and
diagonal braces on the back are leftover 2×4 lumber. The thicker wood makes it
stronger and gives more wood for the hinges to attach to.

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Cut the pine to length, glue the groove and push together, and then attach to the back
braces with 1½” screws. I gave the doors 2 coats of white paint. It covered the knots, but
with time some would become visible.

The doors were heavy, so I used 8-inch heavy duty spring T-hinges . The springs would
help keep the doors shut.
To improve the security of the shed, I replaced one of the screws in each with a bolt.

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Pro Tip: The diagonal braces always point down and into the hanging jamb; never
away (apart from old western movies).
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For more details check out my article How to Build Double Shed Doors.
Related: 31 Ideas and Plans on Building A Shed Door

Step 12: Frame the Windows

Your shed should have at least one window. It lets light in and makes it easier to see. If
it opens, it can also let fresh air in so the door doesn’t have to stay open. The Skillion
Roof style makes it easy to put extra windows up high to let light in without making the
contents of the shed visible to unwanted visitors.

I cut the felt paper diagonally from corner to corner at the windows and door. Wrapped
the felt into the opening and stapled it in place.

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I then used 1×4 fence boards painted with 2 coats of white to frame and trimmed out
the windows and door.

The windows are made from virtually unbreakable polycarbonate sheets. The front and
side windows were cut from 0.118 in. clear polycarbonate sheets. The upper windows
are made from 1/4 in. clear multiwall polycarbonate sheet panels.

I used a 7-1/4″ 40-tooth circular saw blade to make the cuts. To avoid scratches, I didn’t
remove the protective film from the sheets until the cuts were done. I clamped the
panels to my workbench so they wouldn’t vibrate or move. An aluminum guide rail kept
my cuts straight.

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I installed the window pieces using nailing strips. I added decorative grids to the inside
of the lower windows which also add some rigidity to the plastic window.

Step 13: Install Siding

The local building department provided me with a list exterior siding that I could use.
Originally I was planning to use T&G pine planks. After calculating the cost and
considering the hassle of staining the pine every 2 – 3 years, I went with vinyl siding.

Advantages:

Cheap! Vinyl is an inexpensive product if you pick beige, white, gray, light blue or
khaki. If you want a low volume color or profile, it will cost more.

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 Durable! Vinyl is a very forgiving and flexible material. It can take bangs and
scrapes and stand up to almost any weather if installed correctly. The color also
doesn’t fade.
Maintenance free; once installed properly the siding seldom requires any
maintenance. It may require a hosing down to remove dust or dirt, but no
painting or staining every 2-3 years.
Easy, almost “no-skills-required” installation. Follow the simple instructions and
measure carefully, it’s quick and easy.
It’s also a waterproof barrier for your shed and its contents.

Disadvantages:

Extreme temperatures are one of the few disadvantages to vinyl siding. Vinyl will
expand at hot temperatures and contract on cold days. This usually isn’t a
problem if properly installed. It can shrink and flex without notice. But when cut
and installed at cold temperatures, it can warp at hot temperatures. This can make
it susceptible to wind damage and looks awful.
Oil based products can stain vinyl, so be careful when cleaning paint brushes and
machinery.
When installing vinyl, remember that cut edges are sharp. Have some band-aids
available.

Installing the vinyl siding was easy. I just followed the manufacturer’s instructions.
Even the tools are simple! A hammer and the same galvanized roofing nails used for the
shingles. Fiskars scissors to cut the siding, and I rented a snap lock punch to put nail
holes where needed.

Begin with the starter strip at the bottom and attach the outside corners. Make sure
these are level! Install the flashing and J-channels for the windows and doors, and the
under-sill trim too.

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Once these were all in place, I installed the siding panels.

The siding project only took me one weekend!

Cost of DIY Building 10×14 Storage Shed

Now for the question how much did this cost me. Right around $3,800.

Final Thoughts
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Five years later:

Building this single sloped roof shed was an excellent learning experience.
Preplanning was essential to the build. The shed style allowed more windows near the
high wall roofline which adds a lot of light.

The greater roof slope sheds snow and water easily too. I presently have ample space for
storage and no squeak or bounce to the floor. And it looks Awesome!

Hopefully, this article has provided you with some useful information on how to build
a slanted roof shed. Your comments are appreciated. If you know someone who is
thinking about, for example, building a shed to store a bicycle, share with them if you
liked it.

Eugene Sokol
Eugene has been a DIY enthusiast for most of his life and loves
being creative while inspiring creativity in others. He is
passionately interested in home improvement, renovation and
woodworking.

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