Hindawi Publishing Corporation

Journal of Composites
Volume 2016, Article ID 3846936, 7 pages
http://dx.doi.org/10.1155/2016/3846936

Research Article
Effect of Lycra Percentages and Loop Length on the Physical and
Mechanical Properties of Single Jersey Knitted Fabrics

Eman Eltahan
Textile Engineering Department, Faculty of Engineering, Alexandria University, Alexandria, Egypt

Correspondence should be addressed to Eman Eltahan; eman [email protected]

Received 13 March 2016; Revised 26 June 2016; Accepted 8 July 2016

Academic Editor: Baozhong Sun

Copyright © 2016 Eman Eltahan. This is an open access article distributed under the Creative Commons Attribution License, which
permits unrestricted use, distribution, and reproduction in any medium, provided the original work is properly cited.

Single jersey knitted fabrics are generally used to make underwear and outerwear such as T-shirts. Knit fabric can more easily
deform or stretch by compressing or elongating the individual stitches that form the fabric. Cotton yarns, which are not elastomeric,
do not have the ability of recovery to rearrange the stitches. As a consequence, single-knit fabrics may have permanent deformation.
To improve the recovery performance of circular single-knit fabrics, it is now a common practice to knit a small amount of spandex
fiber or yarn with companion cotton yarn. In this study the physical, dimensional, and mechanical properties of back plaited cotton/
spandex single jersey knitted fabrics were investigated and the results are compared with knitted fabrics made from 100% cotton
and the effect of spandex percentage was also studied. It was found that as the loop length increases, the wales density was not
affected and specific fabric hand and extension increased, but bursting strength and fabric recovery decreased. The presence of
Lycra in single jersey knitted fabric increases of course density, fabric thickness, and knitted fabric recovery, while fabric width,
fabric porosity, and extension were decreased.

1. Introduction the wale density was not influenced but course density, area
density, stitch density, and the tightness factor were all found
Stretch fiber, yarn, or fabric provides necessary elasticity for to be inversely proportional to the stitch length value at all
a garment to respond to every movement of the body and the relaxation states. Senthilkumar [4] found that spandex
return to its original size and shape. The degree and direction core cotton spun (SCCS) knitted fabrics were preferable for
of elasticity determine the end use of stretch garment. The active sportswear and spandex back plaited cotton (SBPC)
most important property requirements for stretch garment knitted fabrics were preferable for stretch sportswear. They
are in the order of body comfort fit, breathability, and dura- also found that SCCS knitted fabric absorbs a drop of water
bility. quicker than SBPC fabric due to cotton wrapped surface in
Haji [1] measured the physical properties of cotton/ the yarn peripheral. Further, SBPC fabric has lower interyarn
spandex single jersey and fabric knitted from cotton alone. spaces due to higher stitch density. Prakash and Thangamani
The statistical analysis proved that the dimensional stability [5] found that the dimension of fabric showed considerable
and air permeability are adversely affected by the percentage change during wet relaxation. The courses per inch increase
of spandex. Fabric weight was improved significantly by from 17.65% to 70.49% and an average percentage change in
increasing spandex ratio. He proved that fabric crease recov- courses per inch was 47.56% after wet relaxation. The wales
ery was improved significantly by increasing spandex ratio. per inch decreased from 59.57% to 31.75% and an average
Marmarali [2] found that as the amount of spandex increased, percentage change in wales per inch was 44.2% after wet
loop length values remain nearly the same and the wale and relaxation. They concluded that the fabric shows better
the course spacing values decreased. Furthermore, because appearance for 2.5 mm loop length and 10% stretch level.
spandex-containing fabrics tend to be tighter, the weight and Sadek et al. [6] studied the effect of Lycra percent on single
thickness of the fabrics were higher, but air permeability and jersey properties. As the Lycra extension percent reached
spirality were lower. Kumar and Sampath [3] concluded that 232% in the case of the half plating fabrics, the course density
2 Journal of Composites

increased by 40%, the wale density increased by 6%, the (iii) Machine gauge: 24/inch.
thickness increased by 25%, the air permeability decreased (iv) Machine speed: 35 r.p.m.
by 78%, and the initial elasticity modulus decreased by
55%. Also, in the case of the full plating fabrics, the course (v) Number of feeders: 48 feeders.
density increased by 77%, the wale density increased by
The finishing processes of 100% cotton knitted fabrics were as
14%, the thickness increased by 46%, the air permeabil-
follows:
ity decreased by 92%, and the initial elasticity modulus
decreased by 69%. The abrasion resistance of the full plating (1) Bleaching.
fabric increased by an average value of 15%. Thus, the half
plaiting fabrics showed better results for the course density (2) Alkaline medium.
and wale density. Zaman [7] focused his research work on (3) Rinsing.
dimensional properties of elastomeric single jersey knitted (4) Neutralization.
fabrics by feeding elastomeric yarn with different feeding
speeds. He concluded that, with increasing the feeding speed, (5) Softener.
elastomeric yarn wales per inch and weight per square meter (6) Squeezing + drying.
decreased. All other properties increased with increasing the
feeding speed of elastomeric yarn. Cibi Vishnu et al. [8] The finishing processes of cotton-Lycra knitted fabrics were
studied the effect of heat setting and compacting on elastic as follows:
properties of cotton/spandex knitted fabrics. They concluded
that least time gives best elastic stretch with maximum (1) Heat setting.
loading whereas high elastic recovery is achieved with longer (2) Bleaching.
duration of heat setting. Low temperature of heat setting gave
(3) Alkaline medium.
best elastic stretch and also good values of elastic recovery
%. But heat setting temperature has no influence on the (4) Rinsing.
elastic recovery of the fabric. Gokarneshan and Thangamani (5) Neutralization.
[9] carried out a study to find a comparative evaluation of
the low stress mechanical properties of cotton/spandex and (6) Softener.
polyester/spandex blend knit. They found that extensibility (7) Squeezing + drying.
increased with loop length and fine yarn fabric has more
extensibility than course yarn fabric because the spandex The chemical material which was used in bleaching was
content is more. Senthilkumar and Anbumani [10] found that H2 O2 , hydrogen peroxide (alkaline medium), and acid. To
fabric at gray state showed higher dynamic work recovery. wet the fabric, an auxiliary material was used and then it was
After heat setting dynamic work recovery was reduced and rinsed. An optical substance was also necessary to be added.
after bleaching reduced again, this behavior was noticed Also softener was used and finally squeezing and drying the
in both wale and course directions. Compacting process finished fabrics were done. The drying process was carried out
increased the dynamic work recovery in wale direction. Effect at 120∘ C and a speed of 15 mt/min. The final finishing process
of different stages of processing on dynamic work recovery was carried out at 125∘ C and a speed of 20 mt/min.
of the fabric had significant influence. The influence of The properties of the produced knitted fabric were mea-
extension levels on dynamic work recovery of cotton/spandex sured according to ASTM [11] on gray and bleached fabrics.
fabrics was insignificant in case of different loop length of The physical properties measured were wales and courses
cotton, input tension, and spandex linear density. count, loop length, stitch density, fabric weight, and fabric
thickness.
2. Materials and Methods Porosity of knitted fabric can be defined as [1 − the ratio
between the volume of the fibers in the cell and the volume of
The work was divided into two parts. The first part is to the unit cell of knitted fabric]. Therefore,
produce fabrics from 100% cotton with different loop lengths.
In the second part, knitted fabrics were produced with differ- volume of fibers
ent ratios of Lycra, 4.3%, 5%, and 5.7%, with count 22 dtex Porosity% = [1 − ] × 100,
volume of cell
and also with different loop lengths, that is, 2.6, 2.75, 2.95,
and 3.15 mm. Cotton yarn of 40/1 and spandex yarn of 22 dtex weight of the yarn in the cell
Volume of the fibers = , (1)
were the main materials used to produce the knitted fabrics fiber density
on a single jersey knitting machine. The normal industrial
tex
parameters were used during the process of heat setting of the Weight of yarn = 𝐿 × ,
cotton spandex fabrics. These parameters were temperature 106
of 190∘ C and speed of 10 mt/min.
where 𝐿 is the loop length in mm and tex/106 is the weight of
The specifications of single jersey knitting machine are as
yarn per mm:
follows:
(i) Machine type: SANTONI. 𝑡
Volume of cell = , (2)
(ii) Machine diameter: 16 inches. 𝑐×𝑤
Journal of Composites 3

where (𝑡) is the fabric thickness, which is 2𝑑 for single jersey; 15.5
that is, 𝑡 = 2𝑑, 𝑑 = 0.044√tex, in mm:
15
𝑐 × 𝑤 × 𝐿 × tex
Porosity% = [1 − ] × 100%, 14.5
𝜌 × 106 × 2 × 0.044√tex

Wales/cm
(3) 14
𝑐 × 𝑤 × 𝐿√tex
Porosity% = [1 − ( )] × 100%,
𝜌 × 88 × 103 13.5

where 𝑐 = courses/mm, 𝑤 = wales/mm, 𝐿 is loop length in 13

mm, and 𝜌 is fiber density in gm/mm3 .
To simplify the above equation, the volume of the yarn 12.5
can be calculated from another way as follows: 2.5 2.7 2.9 3.1
Loop length (mm)
Volume of the yarn = loop length 100% cotton 5% Lycra
(4) 4.3% Lycra 5.7% Lycra
× cross section area.
Figure 1: Effect of loop length on wales/cm at different percentages
If the yarn is assumed theoretically to be circular in cross of Lycra.
section, then

𝑑2
Volume of the yarn = 𝐿 × Π × . (5) 35
4
30
Therefore, Porosity% = [1 − (𝑐 × 𝑤 × 𝐿 × Π × 𝑑2 )/4𝑡]:
25
𝑐×𝑤×𝐿×Π×𝑑
Courses/cm

Porosity% = [1 − ( )] × 100%. (6) 20

8
15
Fabric settings 𝐾𝑐 , 𝐾𝑤 , and 𝐾𝑠 and loop shape factor are
calculated according to Munden [12], while 10

5
𝐾𝑤 = 𝑤 × 𝐿,
0
𝐾𝑐 = 𝑐 × 𝐿, 2.5 2.7 2.9 3.1
𝐾𝑠 = 𝐾𝑐 × 𝐾𝑤 , (7) Loop length (mm)
100% cotton 5% Lycra
𝐾𝑐 4.3% Lycra 5.7% Lycra
Loop shape factor = .
𝐾𝑤
Figure 2: Effect of loop length on courses/cm at different percent-
The fabric setting is expressed by the number of wales per cm ages of Lycra.
width of cloth and the number of courses per cm length of
cloth.
The tested mechanical properties of knitted fabric were
the bursting strength, elongation, and tensile recovery to rep- The effect of loop length on shape factor is similar to the
resent the percentages of recovery and remaining extension in effect of loop length on course and wales density. As shown
the fabric due to applying a certain load on the finished fabric. in Figure 3, as the loop length increases, the loop shape factor
𝐾𝑐 /𝐾𝑤 decreases, because when the loop length increases, the
3. Results and Discussion course density and wales density decrease.
It is obvious from Figure 4 that the weight of the fabric
3.1. Physical and Dimensional Properties. From Figure 1, the decreases as loop length increases in case of 100% cotton. This
wales/cm decrease as the loop length increases whatever the is because the increase in loop length gives an increase in the
percentage of Lycra in the fabric. This is because the Lycra in length of the loop legs and therefore the courses become far
the yarn tends to contract the loops to each other. away from each other and consequently the course density
From Figure 2, by adding Lycra in the knitted fabrics, decreases. But in the presence of the Lycra as the loop length
the course density increases and the contraction of the fabric increases the fabric weight slightly increases. This means that
in the lengthwise direction was observed by increasing the the effect of Lycra in the knitted fabric is greater than the effect
percentage of Lycra. This is already very clear at different of the increase in loop length which leads to compacting the
loop length where there is a reduction in course density by fabric together. This case is at any percentage of Lycra yarn
increasing the fed loop length. that is at 4.3% or 5% and 5.7%.
4 Journal of Composites

2.5 0.6

2 0.5

1.5
Kc /Kw

0.4

Thickness (mm)
1
0.3
0.5
0.2
0
2.5 2.7 2.9 3.1
0.1
Loop length (mm)
100% cotton 5% Lycra 0
4.3% Lycra 5.7% Lycra 2.5 2.7 2.9 3.1
Figure 3: Effect of loop length on loop shape factor at different per- Loop length (mm)
centages of Lycra. 100% cotton 5% Lycra
4.3% Lycra 5.7% Lycra

180
Figure 5: Effect of loop length on fabric thickness at different per-
centages of Lycra.
160
140
92
Weight (gm/mt2 )

120
91
100
90
80
Width (cm)

89
60 88
40 87
20 86
0 85
2.5 2.7 2.9 3.1
84
Loop length (mm) 2.5 2.7 2.9 3.1
100% cotton 5% Lycra Loop length (mm)
4.3% Lycra 5.7% Lycra
100% cotton 5% Lycra
Figure 4: Effect of loop length on fabric weight at different percent- 4.3% Lycra 5.7% Lycra
ages of Lycra. Figure 6: Effect of loop length on fabric width at different percent-
age of Lycra.

From Figure 5, in case of 100% cotton the thickness of the

fabric decreases. This is because as the loop length increases effective in case of 5.7% than the other fabrics with lower
the fabric becomes more open so the mobility of the loops percent of Lycra.
also increases and this leads to slipping the loops over each Because the fabric porosity has a reflection on the air
other when the pressing foot of the thickness tester presses permeability, that is, as the porosity of the fabric increases
the yarns which give lower thickness. The presence of Lycra the air permeability of fabric also increases, the fabric air
tends to contract the loops to each other; therefore, the fabric permeability increases as the loop length increases and also
thickness increases and as mentioned before the effect of the as the Lycra percentage becomes lower and this is clear from
Lycra canceled the effect of the increase in loop length. Figure 7.
Figure 6 shows that the increase of loop length increases
the fabric width. The percentage of 5.7% Lycra shows the 3.2. Mechanical Properties. It is clear from Figure 8 that the
least width of fabric. This is due to the high shrinking ability knitted fabrics made from 100% cotton show an increase in
of Lycra causing the contraction in width. The 100% cotton the specific hand as the loop length increases. This is because
fabric gives nearly the same width as the other fabrics with less as the loop length increases the knitted fabric becomes more
percentage of Lycra than 5.7%. This shows that the percentage open and soft as compared with the small loop length. By
of Lycra determines the effectiveness of loop length on fabric introducing Lycra yarn in the fabric, the Lycra yarn holds
width. It is clear that the increase of loop length is more the loops together and the fabric becomes less open and this
Journal of Composites 5

0.84 11

0.82 10.5

Bursting strength (kgf)

10
0.8
9.5
Porosity

0.78
9
0.76
8.5
0.74
8
0.72 7.5
0.7 7
2.5 2.7 2.9 3.1 2.5 2.7 2.9 3.1
Loop length (mm) Loop length (mm)
100% cotton 5% Lycra 100% cotton 5.7% Lycra
4.3% Lycra 5.7% Lycra 4.3% Lycra 5% Lycra

Figure 7: Effect of loop length on fabric porosity at different per- Figure 9: Effect of loop length on fabric bursting strength at differ-
centages of Lycra. ent percentages of Lycra.

0.0012
5

0.001
4
Extension (cm)
Specific fabric hand

0.0008 3

0.0006 2

0.0004 1

0.0002 0
0 50 100 150 200
0
Load applied (cN)
2.5 2.7 2.9 3.1
Loop length (mm) 100% cotton 5.7% Lycra
4.3% Lycra
100% cotton 5% Lycra
4.3% Lycra 5.7% Lycra Figure 10: Effect of different loads in wales direction on fabric exten-
sion at loop length = 2.6 mm.
Figure 8: Effect of loop length on specific hand at different percent-
ages of Lycra.

Figure 10 shows the effect of applying different values of

openness decreases by increasing the percentage of Lycra loads on knitted fabric extension in wales direction at loop
yarn. Due to the reduction in fabric openness and by inserting length 2.6 mm which is recommended in practice. By increas-
Lycra in the knitted fabric, the fabric specific hand decreases. ing the load applied, the knitted fabric extension increases.
It is also remarkable that the Lycra yarn can cancel the effect The rate of increase in the fabric extension increases as the
of loop length. It can be noticed that the fabric hand of fabrics percentage of Lycra increases. The lowest increase in the
with Lycra is lower than that of 100% cotton due to the lower knitted fabric in wales direction is in case of 100% cotton
bending stiffness of Lycra filaments. followed by 4.3% Lycra and then 5.7%. This is because the
It is obvious from Figure 9 that there is a reduction in cotton/Lycra yarn has a higher percentage of extension in
bursting strength by increasing the loop length whatever comparison to the 100% cotton yarn which consequently
the percentage of Lycra is. This is because the structure of helps to give the knitted fabric more extensibility.
the fabric becomes more open. In case of 100% cotton and By increasing the loads in the course direction, the
cotton with low percentage of Lycra, the behavior of bursting knitted fabric extension also increases. The rate of increase of
strength is approximately the same as in 100% cotton knitted extension in the case of applying the load in course direction
fabric. By increasing the percentage of Lycra to 5% and 5.7%, (Figure 11) is slightly higher than the rate of increase of
the bursting strength is higher than in case of cotton 100% and extension in wales direction. This is due to the nature of the
4.3% Lycra. This means that the Lycra yarn causes the increase formation of the knitted loop. But the effect of the Lycra yarn
of the strength of the fabric due to the higher compactness in in case of extension in course direction is less than in case of
the fabric structure resisting the bursting force. extension in wales direction.
6 Journal of Composites

4 120

100
3
80
Extension (cm)

Recovery (%)
60
2
40

1 20

0
0 0 100 200
0 100 200 Load applied (cN)
Load applied (cN)
100% cotton 5.7% Lycra
100% cotton 5.7% Lycra 4.3% Lycra
4.3% Lycra
Figure 13: Effect of different loads on elastic fabric recovery in
Figure 11: Effect of different loads on fabric extension in course course direction at loop length = 2.6 mm.
direction at loop length = 2.6 mm.

120 percentage of Lycra in the fabric increases, the percentage

of recovery increases due to the same reason of the higher
elasticity of Lycra filament.
100
Recovery (%)

4. Conclusion
80
From the previous results and discussion, the following can
be concluded:
60
(1) Both loop length and percentage of Lycra in jersey
knitted fabric have a great effect on knitted fabric
40
0 50 100 150 200
properties.
Load applied (cN) (2) As the loop length increases, wales/unit length and
100% cotton 5.7% Lycra courses/unit length decrease.
4.3% Lycra (3) Loop shape factor decreases as loop length increases;
Figure 12: Effect of different loads on elastic fabric recovery in wales this is very clear in case of 100% cotton while by
direction at loop length = 2.6 mm. adding Lycra to the fabric and due to the tightness of
fabric the stitch density is approximately the same.
(4) Generally, as loop length increases, the stitch den-
From Figure 12, it can be noticed that as the applied sity decreases and consequently weight of fabric
load increases the percentage of elastic recovery decreases. decreases. This is in case of 100% cotton, while by
At small load, the recovery in case of 100% cotton and in adding Lycra yarn the knitted fabric becomes tight
presence of Lycra yarn is the same. By increasing the load and the fabric weight increases as the percentage of
applied, the percentage of fabric recovery decreases. The Lycra increases; that is, the loop length has no signif-
lowest decrease in fabric recovery is at knitted fabric made icant effect on the fabric weight.
from 100% cotton and the percentage of Lycra improves the (5) Fabric thickness is not affected with loop length in
recovery of the knitted fabric as the percentage of Lycra case of 100% cotton, while by introducing Lycra to the
increases. This is due to the gain of extensibility by intro- knitted fabric thickness increases as the loop length
ducing Lycra yarn in the knitted fabric. The reason is that increases; this increase is due to the tightness of the
the fabric elastic recovery decreases by increasing the applied fabric.
load when exceeding the elastic limit.
From Figure 13, it can be noticed that by increasing the (6) Fabric width increases, as the loop length increases;
load in course direction, this gave a decrease in fabric recov- the increase in width in case of 100% cotton is higher
ery. In the case of loop length 2.6 mm which is practically than with 5.7% Lycra.
recommended, the recovery in courses and wales direction, (7) Specific fabric hand in case of 100% cotton increases
at small load, is the same. The recovery in case of 100% with the increase of loop length, while this property
cotton is less than in case of fabric with Lycra due to the is approximately the same at different percentages of
higher elasticity of Lycra compared to cotton. Also, when the Lycra as the loop length increases.
Journal of Composites 7

(8) Bursting strength decreases as the loop length polyester/spandex blend knits,” International Journal of Applied
increases, in case of 100% cotton and low percentage Engineering and Technology, vol. 2, no. 3, pp. 23–27, 2012.
of Lycra. But by increasing percentage of Lycra there [10] M. Senthilkumar and N. Anbumani, “Effect of laundering on
is a slight decrease in bursting strength as the loop dynamic elastic behavior of cotton and cotton/spandex knitted
length increases. fabrics,” Journal of Textile and Apparel, Technology and Manage-
ment, vol. 7, no. 4, 2012.
(9) The porosity of single jersey knitted fabric increases,
[11] https://www.astm.org/Standards/textile-standards.html.
as loop length increases; this is in all cases.
[12] D. L. Munden, “The geometry and dimensional properties of
(10) Extension in wales direction of the single jersey knit- plain-knit fabrics,” Journal of the Textile Institute Transactions,
ted fabric increases as the load on the fabric increases; vol. 50, no. 7, pp. T448–T471, 1959.
the increase in extension in case of Lycra knitted
fabric is higher than 100% cotton and also the percent-
age of extension increases as the percentage of Lycra
increases.
(11) The extension in course direction is higher than the
percentage of extension in wales direction under the
same load. This is in case of 100% cotton.
(12) As the load increases, the percentage of recovery
decreases. The reduction in recovery in case of 100%
cotton at higher loads is more than Lycra knitted
fabric.

Competing Interests
The author declares that they have no competing interests.

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on Dimensional Properties of Single Jersey Knit Fabric, Faculty
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tion of the low stress mechanical properties cotton/spandex and
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