The COMPLETE GUIDE INDOOR GARDENING Jenny Raworth and Val Bradley Special photography by Michael Newton and Howard Rice Abbeville Press Publishers New York London ParisFirst publish in the United States of America in 1998 hy Abuse Press, 22 Cortland Steet, New York, NY 10007 1 Mere: Bonk. iv ete and desiged for Colle & Brose Limite ies published in Gevat Britain in 1998 by Collins & Brows Limited Landon House, Great Eastern Whar, Parkgate Road, London SW1 4NQ, Copysight © Coline & Brown Limited 1998 Text eopyright © Vol Bradley and Jenny Raworss 1988 lasrations copyright ©) Collins and Bron, 1998 (he right of Val Bradley andl Jenny Raworth tbe identified asthe ators of this work has hoon assorted by then in accordance with the Copyright, Designs and Patents Act, 1988 AU rigs vesorved under international eoperight lave No part of this book rma be reproduced or ile in ay fran or hy ans means, electron, mechanical including photocopying, recording, or by any storage an retrioval msm, without pormisson i writing from the publisher. Inter shoul! be addressed 10 bheville Publishing raup, The text of this book was set in Walbaum. Printed and bound in fas lest eition Zeon warsst ISBN 0.7002-0549.9,CONTENTS Introduction 6 Containers 10 PLANTS FOR THE PLACE 16 Positioning Plants 18 Direct Sunlight Indirect Sunlight Cool Light Partial Shade Conservatories PLANT DISPLAYS 40 Grouping Plants 42 Decorative Staking 44 Architectural Displays 46 all Flowering Displays 50 Small Foliage Displays Cacti and Succulents Miniature Displays Spring-flowering Displays 58 Summer-flowering Displays 60 Winter-flowering Displays 62 Grouped Flowering Displays 64 Grouped Foliage Displays CARE & MAINTENANCE 72 ‘Lhe Plant’s Needs 74 Buying and Setting Up 80 Fertilizing Plants 82 Fitonia verschafeti RY a A-Z Plant Directory Watering Plants 84 ‘The Growing Medium 87 Planting and Potting 88 Care of Containers 95 Hydroculture 94 Foreing 95 Propagation 96 Pruning Plants 104 Training Plants 107 Stakes and Supports 108 HOUSEPLANT DOCTOR 110 Diagnosing Plant Problems 112 Pests and Diseases 116 INDOOR PLANT DIRECTORY 120 Bromeliads 122 Cacti 125 Orchids 128 Bulbs 129 Ferns 132 Herbs 135 Suceulents 136 Palmlike Plants 138 142 Glossary 186 Plant Lists 187 Index 188 Acknowledgments 192INTRODUCTION Introduction OST OF THE plants we grow Mi incoors are simply outdoor Siren plants from warmer countries, They poplin) have their origins in rain forests and deserts, mountainous regions, and wide, open plains. They have the same likes and dislikes in terms of light and water as the plants we have in our own gar- faviegted i . iedera dens, the main difference is that they ‘Mona Lise) usually have a higher requirement for warmth and humidity. The effect of trying to grow a plant in unsuitable conditions is the same indoors as out — it will become stressed as it tries to cope, vulnerable to attack by pests and diseases, and will ulti- mately give up the struggle and die. Unfortunately, as far as indoor plants are concerned, this happens so often that they have come to be regarded as short-term and expendable. Indoor plantings tend to develop on a much more casual basis than outdoor ones, with most plants being bought because they catch the attention. We have all succumbed to the “impulse buy” at the garden center or nursery, 6yan INTRODUCTION when a glorious display can tempt the most resolute, especially at those special times of year, such as Christmas or plant looks lovely, then it fades and is thrown away — but is this really all the is to it? How much longer would the plant flower if its growing needs were really attended to? Could it survive to flower again next year? Could that one plant produce others to fill out the display or to share wit tienas? All the tender, loving care in the world will not help a plant which has been poorly treated before you buy it, It is much better to buy from a nursery or garden center where attention has been given to the plants’ well-being. Some centers grow their own plants, so there is no stress from transportation, drying out in a storage area, or sudden changes in temperature Even centers without growing facilities can generally be relied upon to keep the conditions as good as possible until the plants are sold At the opposite extreme, a plant sold from a garage driveway may have been subjected to cold wind and exhaust 7 Mother’s Day. For a few weeks, the — Dieffenbachia sy Mtaming katy (Kalanchoe blossfeldiana)INTRODUCTION Curferowoe Fumes, which will already have put the plant under stress from which it may ™ never recover. Take the time to find out where your plant prefers to live. Most houses have a variety of conditions available, from a warm, humid kitchen to a cool Paper flowe! thongdtea fab bedroom. Whether it is bright or dark, warm or cold, there is almost always a plant to fit the situation. The key is BP finding out which one, In this book , we have tackled each area in turn, giving a list of suggestions for plants in each case. Whether you want a lush foliage plant or a pretty flowering one, something to climb or something to trail gracefully from a hanging basket, there is a plant for all but the most inhospitable of situations. Having chosen your plant, the next step is to keep it alive and thriving, and the key to success is to take time to get to know the plants in your care. The Cyclamen persue Indoor Plant Directory is an alphabeti cal list of popular indoor plants, with family and well-known groups first, * followed by an A-Z of plants in botani cal Latin (genus or species) name order. Full cultivation information is given for 8Rubber plant (Ficus elastica) INTRODUCTION each entry, including growing condi- tions and advice on propagation In the Care and Maintenance sec- tion of the hook, the different aspects of the growing process are explained. ‘There is no mystery to successful grow- ing, it is a matter of patience and atten- tiveness to the plant’s requirements. ‘The need for light, water, and fertilizing are obvious, but what is humidity, and what is its relevance to the way a plant grows? Finally, there is a section for that moment when you realize that, despite your best efforts, something has gone wrong. By using this section earlier, rather than later, a diagnosis should be possible which will make sure that the correct treatment can be followed, and the problem overcome, Most of the dif- ficulties faced by plants are only fatal if they are allowed to develop. The Complete Guide to Indoor Gardening aims to help the beginner start up and the more experienced to progress by offering inspiration and explanations, Understanding why something happens (or needs to hap- pen) makes it easier to ensure that it does happen Tradeseantia zebrina ‘Quadricolor Peperomia Potka dot plant (Hypoestes phyllostachya) eas nodendron simsii) (Gehlumbergers)INTRODUCTION Containers | HOUSEPLANTS are grown at the nursery seepmg from the pot can damage polished surfaces 1m plastiepots. While these are both prac. ‘The frst consideration must be a saneer or drip Ml and convenient for growmg and tray under the pot to collect excess water tering. thfy do not look attractive in the home. Remember that your plant must not be allowed tc Fortunately, |there are a great many decorative sit ina saucer of water because this 1s when water Nowerpots ahd containers © to disguise, or logging occurs, which can rot the roots and lead, replace, your] plastic p eventually, to plant death. Although sau Plastic pts have drainage holes in the bottom practical method of collecting exce that allow qxcess water lo drain away, and are are hardly decorative. Indeed, there is nothing therefore unsuitable for use indoors where water worse than a sad-looking plant sitting on aCONTA Wicker baskets ural quality of wicker combines well plants. Baskets lined with plastic are widely available from garden centers and special! but if you have an old basket a! home that you store. 7 it into a suitable older Simply cut a piece of thick plastic from a wither ~ tren it tothe correct size and ‘ashe! so that the plastic ends ust below plastic plant pot of fresh soil INERS aad bowls Jers range from metal buckets pans, enamel put h Metal buckets, baské ey.ow aiGH Mesa’ co “ast-trow cooking. pot wire baskets to th humble tin can thal can painting it attractive patina ofINTRODUCTION windowsill ith a chipped saucer underneath this does not|make the most attractive display. One way ko get around the pot and saucer prob: lem is to place the plastic pot in @ pot holder or cachepot. ‘THese come in all shapes and sizes and can be made pf pottery, china, wicker, tin, or metal Before you rsh out and buy new containers, take a Jook around {he home and see if there are any suit. able receptagles that you could adapt for house plants. Housphold items, such as enamel buckets, copper bovlg, wastepaper cans, and log baskets, al make excellent and unusual containers, as do coffee mugs, casserole dishes, or a pretty vegetable dish) that has lost its lid, A set of matching ceramic pitchers with necks wide enough to acccramodate a plastic pot makes a great way to display similer plants (such as the primulas shown on page 43) The color of the container must complement the plants and not compete with them. A highly deco rated pot in bright colors, for example, would com. pletely overwhelm a delicate flowering pla While a white container may seem like a safe option, this will contrast sharply with the foliage and draw attention away from the plantCONTAINERS ‘The container must be the right size for the plastic flowerpot, which should sit casily inside with the rim hidden, If the plastic surround is still visible, repot plant smaller container or cover the surface of the potting soil, eich: your into a moss, which will also conserve moisture a vide humidity for the plant Ics possible to create a really stylish container ading the rim of the container, with fresh by painting an old basket or aluminum container to mateh the flowermg plant you have chosen. The easiest method to transform containers is to use spray paints, which come in just about any color of the rainbow. A good tip to remember when ng anything is to put the object inside a large card- board box to protect the surrounding area, Spray outdoors and wear a mask to protect your face and lungs. Try planting a group of grape hyacinths (Muscari sp.) in a blue-painted aluminum bucket, or arrange a row of dwarf daffodils (such as Narcissus “I ona kitchen windowsill in lay pots that have been painted yellow. ind a container that will flowerpot, you can always grow the individual Tf you ean your plast ommodate Miniature containers Top sHEL® Miniature plants that are popular in garden centers need attractine containers to set them off to their best advantage. Many household containers, such as china egg cups and small cups or mugs, make charming plant holders — espectaily if the decoration matches the color of the plant — but itis also possible to find more unusual containers at flew markets or secondhand stores. Glass vases and bottles MIDDLESHELY Removing the plant fiom its plastic pot and planting it in-a glass container is an unusual but very attractive way to display a plant. However, due to the’ transparent nacare of most glass vases, itis important to disguise the root ball of the plant by liniag the pot first with either fresh moss (see page 30), gravel Gee page 31), or clear glass marbles sold especially for the purpose. If you are planting spring bulbs in this way, frst remove as much soul as possible from around the root ball. then hold the buth upright in the container while you add the moist gravel The buh will be hudden completely by the stones and the flowers will look as if they are growing directly out of the stones. An attractive method of displaying hyacinths is to place them in special glass pots filled with water: The neck of the pot supports the bulb and the roots draw up water from below (see page 51. Ceramic pots and dishes wortosssinar China and ceramic cachepots are the most popular type of contamer, and there isa vast selection on display at garden centers. Bear in mind that a highly decorated china container will overwhelon most pot plants, 50 4s best to gofor neutral blues, creams, or greens that harmonize with the display rather than Contrast with it too sharply. Bold stripes and colours ‘may enhance the strong lines of an architectural plant, but they will vertainly distract the attention from delicate leaves or flowersplant directly in its decorativ with plants becay sodden anit encourage dfainage, cover the pieces of letell ill medd to line it fir sin the ba INTRODUCTION container. However ke th waterproof — if it is crac make sure that container i or porous, ith heavy-duty plas If there are no drainage of the conta bag is idea er, oF if it is line make sure you don’t overwater the uick jour, causing the plant’s roots to rot. To the soil mix will become ase of the pot with rdekery shards (from a broken clay pot) and ther stenciling it a clay to match your interior, makes an attractive w The Victoria “a display your nt-sided rouseplants. kn make charming and simple p don't like the bright reddist fe oF distress it, T stra lay pots Toms, ant containers, If you brown of new clay Du can speed up the agin, process, you can paint the outside with cultured yogurt and leave the pot outside in th arden for 1 couple of weeks will soon rid of that n This technique wly bought look.Clay potsPLANTS FOR THE PLACE HE POSITIONING of indoor plants is critical to I their survival, and this section of the book is devoted to choosing the right plant for the place, offering a situation-by-situation analysis of the home and listing the plants best suited to those positions. From plants that will thrive on a sunny windowsill in direct sunlight, such as summer-flowering gerani ums to those that prefer indi beras, and those that enjoy ct sunlight, such as ger y cool light of ax unheated spare bedroom or east- or north-facing kitchen, like azaleas, just about every plant and situa tion is covered, There is a special feature on plants for conservatories and sunrooms, plus advice on a wide range of topics, such as how color schemes and cur taining can affect a plant’s health snove The delicate yellew heads of Narcissus ‘Téte-é- ‘man attractive display in a wrought tron basket rr Spectacular golden trun from South America, is be (Allamanda eathartica) suited to a warm conservatoryOF Us buy plants on impulse without lly considering where we are going to them. However, choosing the right plant for thd right situation is a key element in suc- cessful inclofr gardening. In geneffal, indoor plants are frequemly posi- tioned wheye they can be seen and admired by everyone, sukh as in the living room or hallway, but these areas|do not necessarily provide the best growing corfditions. The living room, for example, is usually tHe warmest, driest room in the house, and thereforp not an ideal environment for many of | M: Cool, light hallway Argyranihemun @ Focal point: “Pracsce warm, bright light + Campanilh isophylta Allamanda cathartica + Cyclama persicum + Brunfelsia pauciflora + x Fatshedeka lizei ‘Macrantha’ + Hedera helix + x Curofortunella + Jasminum polyanthun mierocarpa + Navewssus dvs. (above) + Gerbera jamesorus (below) DOWNSTAIRS Phen choosing a plant for a particular position in the home, make sure that it will receive adequate light, warmth, and humidity. PLANTS FOR THE PLACE Positioning Plants the spring-flowering plants that require cool, humid, growing conditions. The kitchen win. dowsill, on the other hand, is often cooler and offers good humidity, making it @ better place fof cyclamen, azaleas, and primulas. Tn addition to the temperature of the room, you must consider hovy much light is available in the room. Many people leave their plants in a permanent position all year round and wonder why they do not, flourish. In general, flowering plants require more light than foliage plants, but remember that light intensity varies throughout the year. For example, Floor display: warm, bright light Cocos nucifera Howea forsieriana (above) Rhapis excelsa + Schefftera elegantissima © Focal point: poorly lit hallway + x Fasshedera lizei + Maranta leuconewra + Monsters deticiosa + Senecio macrogiosss @ Sunny windowsill + Nersum oleander + Pelargonium cvs. {above) + Plumbago auriculata + Desert eactt 18POSITIONING PLANTS a plant that thrives in the back of a north-facing room in summer, when the sun is strong and the days are long, may need to be placed much closer to the window in winter when the days are short. The color of the walls and the amount of curtaining provided can both affect the light intensity, Pale-colored walls reflect light, making a room appear much brighter, while dark walls absorb light. Some rooms may not receive any direct sunlight at all, but still have windows large enough to provide good natural light for growing certain houseplants. Indoor plams are grown in the nursery in a controlled environment and very few can tolerate sudden changes in temperature. A windowsill may offer the best light for your plants, but remember temperatures can drop to below freezing in many geographical regions at night, making it @ hostile place for tender plants. Conversely, in summer you must take care that your plants aren’t pressed up against the glass, which will scorch their leaves. Most plants at the garden center are {abeled with their ideal growing conditions, aad there is a directory of plants at the back of this book with advice on temperature, light requirements, and maintenance. Before you. make your selection, check that your home offers adequate growing conditions. Humidity, ia particular, is crucial to many house- plants and there are several ways of increasing the humidity in your home (see page 77). UPSTAIRS Iv is sometimes easy to neglect plants upstairs. Always make sure that they have enough water and food. @ Well-lit bedroom + Arayranthemum OWarm, bright frtescens (below) bathroom + “azalea * Caladium bicolor + Begomax hiemalis Stephanotis floribunda + Sureptocarpus Cyperus papyrus Hoya lanceolata subsp. bella Rosa chinensis (above) @ Humid bathroom Aeschynanthus speciosus Dracaena evs. Bracum affine Peperomia s Selaginelia martensi (above) Ferns (above) © Floor display: landing x Fatshedera lize’ Ficus berjamina {above) Philodendron spp. Polyscias guilfoyletPLANTS FOR Direct Sunlight | la really bright position that receives direct sunlight for most of the day —for example, a south-facing windowsill. Shading may be needed in summer months THE PLACE SUNN] displ This és ROOM may seem an obvious place to A ¥y houseplants, but they have to be cho. sen carefully if they are g south-facing bay window can give a room the feeling of a be a very hdstile place for all but a few sun-lovers, but this very same window could offer an ideal home for thany of the winter-flowering house- plants during the dark winter months when light is ata premlum, Desert qacti are a good choice for somewhere to get hot, and they can provide a vast, joing to thrive. A desert on a hot summer's day and will that is likely selection of| ent seulptin} foliage plan| shapes and textures with their differ | forms (see pages 54-5), Other, taller. s that are suitable for a sunny window Include phoenix palms and yuceas, both leathery leaves, but even these need ing and attention to keep them happy well. in summer j with tough constant tur} and growin, ‘The summer-flowering geraniums will tolerate 9 lot of bright sun in the middle of summer and ar¢ especially suited to a sunny windowsill. Scented Jeaved geraniums, in particular, are a real boon in @ sunny situation where the warmth of the suv releases their aromatic scent include Pelargonium crispum Variegatum’ (lemon, scented), P fomentosum (mint-scented), and P. odoratissimur (apple-scented), In winter, jasmines and bougainvilleas are an excellent choice for a sunny windowsill. However, these wonderful plants really don’t like dry air and must have humidity to be successful. A moist, but Good varieties never waterlogged, soil is necessary, and they should be watered with warm, soft water Windowsill of geraniums RIGHT These scented-leaved geraniums thrive on a sunny windowsill, where the warm sun releases their aromatic perfume. Only ef PLANTS THAT TOL MIATE PULL SUN The ‘ol Brometial Flaming 9 Phewap pl pl Rainbow a Jostein Len plan Flowering P Geranium Golden tun} catharthea Paper ome TRUE SUN-LOVING PLANTS sw plants like to bask in the sun in the hottest months of summer, and even these must be hatched carefully or their leaves will soon become scorched and dry. Many of the bromeliads thrive in hot, sunny conditions, Urn plant (Aechmea fasciata) Lr This staking bromeliad, with its silver- banded, gray-green leaves, produces a tong. lasting bright pink flower in the base of the rosette in summer Ic is easy to grou, but remember to waver into the flower rosette and not over the soil mix (see page 84). Jowing plants will hot, south-facing J (rtesea splendens) nt CAnanas bracteatus) plant (Cryptanthas fechmeaJasiata) Peangoniam evs) pet (Atamanda | Pineapple plant (Ananas bracte- / ( RIGHY This dramatic! looking brometiad has sharp, serrated leaves Bougainville slabra) 20HERBS While herbs really prefer to grow outdoors in the garden, it is always useful to keep a selection handy in the kitchen as a short-term planting. Either make a mixed display like this one, or group several plants of the same type together in one container to give a full planting Lemon thyme Culinary (Thymus citriodorus) mixed herbs culinary herbs will Roserany depend largely on the sort of food you prepare. This window box contains a mixture but if you tend t0 use a lot of one particular type for example, parsley — you may be better with a single planting. When the plants start to look legey and thin, transfer them outdoors to the garden where they will soon rejuvenate RIGHT Your choice of ) aR Ay Rosemary officinalis) Cilantro (Coriandrum 24often. bathe| morning, w during the ideal for ym basking in home offer} choices avai PLANTS FOR Indirect Sunlight ‘This is @ warm position that receives little or no direct sunlight, although OF THE main living areas in our Ines offer good natural light. Rooms sit- led on the east side of the house are in sunlight for a few hours in the hile those on the west receive soft light {ternoon. ‘These sorts of conditions are ny houseplants, since very few enjoy jot summer sun all day long. Tf your good natural light, you have many Jable to you from nurseries, with flow- iage plants to choose from throughout ering and f the year + from gerberas, busy lizzies, and Cape primroses i choes, begor One of display hou where we summer to chrysanthemums, kalan- as, and poinsettias in winter. fhe most popular rooms in which to plants is the living room, as this is lend much of our time. However, since 22 THE PLACE this is probably one of the warmest rooms in tht house, you must take precautions to prevent th atmosphere from becoming too dry. Many house- plants enjoy a warm position, but very few thrivein Gry conditions and none like to be placed near a direct source of heat. If you have an open fire or central heating, you must find ways of providing humidity for your plants. Regular misting is bene. ficial to many plants, especially ferns, but it is not suitable for those with hairy leaves, such as African violets, because the water can get trapped in tht hairs on the leaves and cause them to rot. A helpful tip is to place the pot on a saucer of moist pebbles, which provide humidity as the water evaporates off the stones and into the surrounding air. Make surg the plant isn’t sitting in water, because this encour, ‘ages bacteria which rot the roots, Another solution the overall level of brightness is still high Cheerful gerberas | LEFT The striking, large, datsylike gerberas are perhaps more familiar as cu flowers from florists, but the fiowering pot ‘plant is now widely available in orange, ‘yellow, red, pink, and white throughout the summer: Centerpiece of yeperomias ict selection of different types of peperomias arranged together in a baske| makes avery good center- piece for a dining-room table, Sis basket has been fined | with plastic, a few pebbles have been added to the base | for drainage, and the plants | removed from their original pots. The surface of the soil hhas been covered with fresh | ‘moss t0 conserve moisture. Do not overwater these plants ‘because they are likely to rot) |is to place ybur flowerpot inside another larger con tainer and surround the inner pot with damp moss. A useful of the potti ture and p| attr is to place fresh moss over the surface ng soil, which tot only preserves mois fovides humidity, but also looks most ctive —lespecially if you replace the 1 ularly with h fresh supply "Velltale|signs that your plant isn’t receiving ugh hufnidity are that the leaves begin to \ow signs of scorching, or the buds or off plants have fed in a warm, dry atmosphere for sev- ata time, they will often benefit from tion in a slightly aivier part of the shrivel or flowers fell been displa eral month a short vac Bed light, but a ematurely. If yo house. fooms and hallways that have good jot as warm as the main living areas t PLANTS FOR WINTER PLANTINGS THE PLACE of the house, are good places to move your plants to for short periods of time when they are starting th show signs of poor humidity. One of the advantages of growing houseplan’s s that they are portable, which move them around according to thi in containers means you Dif light throughout the ycar, so if your indoor plants are not receiving enough light in one area of tht room, you can move them to a brighter position. season, rent rooms offer different levels of with little effort. A begonia or African violet, for example, that thrives in the center of the 1i room in summer when light levels are high, may need to 1¢ placed closer to the windowsill in wim ter, when the sun is weak and the days are short-~ pecially in northern latitudes. Temperatures, tod, Theke is a wide selection of lowering plants available in winter — from the ever popular posnsettias to more unusual specimens, such as the pentas shown below. A fair amount PLANTS POR INpIRECT SUN ‘The follew}ng seasonal plants are all suitablf for a warm position cout of direct sunlight Brazilian janine (Mandevila sunder Cambie oniea Flamingo Mlepver Caurive seherzeriaunt) rn Busy irs Chpauens evs) Cape prin (Streprocurpus evs) Gardenia augusta Gerber ungsonut Hibiscus vos hala bt ‘sopirttay Nutorenil HVchimenes fongytora) per (Campana Jasmine Clakminum polyaathunt) ‘Symamen al pepper ‘Capsicum. Jrus (Schlumberger « Pounsetua (uphorbua pulcherrima of winter sunshine will not harm many flowering houseplants. Red and white Lert Flaming katy (Kalanchoe blossfeldiana) can be bought in flower at any time of the year, ‘and in a wide range of colors tncluding red, orange, and yet ou: It has fleshy, succulent leave} and a long flowering season. ari.ow new plant to look out for and one that flowers during the winter months, pentas requires a warm bright position To maintain a compact shape, pinch out the stem tipsINDIRECT can fluctuate especially at night. So if you move a plant onto a sunny windowsill in winter, remem ber to bring it back into the middle of the room at t when temperatures plummet. The same 's in summer when you must take care that your plants aren't pressed up against the glass, which will scorch their leaves and cause them to turn brown around the edges Dramatic, single cole Iysttt The poinsettia (Euphorbia pulcherrima) 1s one plant that everyone associates with Christina large colored flower heads in brillian red, pale pink or butter-cream. The flowers are aut really flowers, but are colored leaf bracts with the tiny real flowers at the with its top of the bracts. BELOW This attractive plant, known as the lipstick vine (Aeschynanthus pulecher of bright with pointed leaves edged in purple. Place it in a bright position with average warmth, and water with tepid water, Provide some hurmiitity by misting the leaves. produces am red lipstick-shaped flowers on long. stem SUNLIGHTPLANTS FOR THE PLACE Rotating your plants is an important part of caring for them, because if you leave a plant in a perma nent positios all year round it will eventually grow towards the|main light source and lose its shape. If your plaifts are grouped in the middle of, per haps, a dinlng-room table, make sure you turn them eacki day so that all sides receive equal shares of light. THis is especially important during the light levels are low. winter whe BEGONIA LEAVES Wendi magnificent eaves which have ‘markings in shades of purple red, pink, and sflver, begonias provide as much color ‘as any flowering plant ofiaCm . i, Begonia res i fee fi ronet If you like to display your plants together in a large container or cachepot, try to leave them in theif ‘owen pots so that you can tend to them on an indi vidual basis, Different plants require different levels of food and water, and if you keep them in, separate pots you can remove them one at a time, check for dead or yellowing leaves or flowers, and water them individually, before returning them the main container. ingle planting LEFT This Begonia rex, with its large striking leaves makes an attractive plant for a permanent display. Hater well, but allow the top half of the soil to dry out between watering. Mist the leaves frequently and sur round the inner container with damp moss to maintain humidity levels. Grouped display neow The Rex begonias, with their attractive and varied foliage, do really well in a warm brught spot away jrom direct sunlight, which can scorch the leaves and make them turn brown. Several different varieties planted together in a bowl, as here, make a long lasting, colorful centerpiece. Try to leave the individual plants in thewr plastic pots, rather than planting them together, so that you can tend them on a personal basisINDIRECT SUNLIGHT two or more plans is particularly eye pink flowersPLANTS FOR THE PLACE Cool Light This és 4 cool position that receives little or no direct sunlig north- or east-facing kitchen, hallway, or unt HE PPPULAR winter- and spring-flowering | azaleps, cyclamen, and hydrangeas that are s0 offen given as presents will quickly drop their floweys and die in the dry air of a warm, centrally- heated living room. These plants prefer a cool position with good light and some humidity. These conditions can be found in rooms that receive sunlight for only part of the day, either cast-facing Window that receives cool morning sun or a really light, large, north-facing window. The color of the wallls in a room and the amount of cur: a window can both affect the light intensity. Pdle colored walls reflect light, making a north. room appear much brighter, while dark, sombdr walls absorb light. Some rooms may not receive ny direct silight at all, but still have windows lage enough to previde good bright light, taining ove! facin a ca eae me ia i ght; for example, a bright window ina -d spare bedroom. for growing plants, A windowsill probably receives, the most light, but remember that temperatures can drop to below freezing here at night — espe cially if plants are left behind drawn curtains. As well as considering the correct light source for your plant, think about the temperature in th Mini pots RuGHT These dainty azaleas would look charming placed on bedside tables, Creating impact BELOW Grouping several delicate plants together Increases their impact because it concentrates their colors at one levelD001 room. Temperatures of around 60-65°F (16-18°C) are ideal for most bulbs, azaleas, and cyclamen, but these can be difficult to achieve in most houses, Azaleas really dislike warm conditions and must be kept permanently moist, without being water logged, if they are to thrive indoors. They also need good humidity, so the secret is to mist your plants daily or place them on a bed of wet gravel. WI the flowers have finished, move the pl toa frost free position — somewhere like a cool conservatory nd when the danger of frost has passed, plant it outdoors in the garden, Plunge the pot into the soil in a shady corner and make sure it doesn’t dry out du the pot again in fall, ready to make a lovely display in time for Christmas Cyclamen are one of or porch ng the summer. You can then lif he many flowering houseplants available around Christinas time and popular as gifts. However, these beautiful plants are often short-lived due toa lack of understanding their needs. This is as shame, because well-grown, Fluted flowers RIGHT The delicate flowers of this Primula obconica are set off by a prety china bashet, with its lated rim and pointed flowers around the outside. Although these plants are usually treated as annuals and discarded after lowering, they will flower again if they are kept cool during, the summer months LIGHT PLANTS FOR COOL, Lignt The following plants are all suitable fora coal. bright position: Pink and red Azalea (Rhodadendron Gyetamen persicum Manuka tree CLeptospermuan scoparim) Tulips (ea, Tulipa ted Biting Hoot) Blackeyed susan (Thunbergia alata) Coe NTeted-tbe) Primula obeonen Alrica hemp (Sparvmanaia aicana) Horst’s cineronn (Persie ht) aian betNowe (Cempanuta isophita Alba) Jasmine Ulasmnann polvanthurs) Lilies (ea. fatto rege Pick-a-back plant (otmica menziesii) Basket of Auove basket of aaleas (Rhododendron simsit) 4 good choice for this coo, eastfacing bedroom. When displaying plants ina basket, always line it first with plastic 10 ensure it is waterproof If possible, leave the plaras in their plastic pots 80 that you can water and tend them on an individual basis. Blue and mauve Crocasexs (Pevicatis x hybrid) Hydrangea macrophytta Primula obconica 29PLANTS FOR THE PLACE cyclamen sah last for many weeks and be kept from season to senson, getting bigger and bigger each year with a large head of flowers. Cool conditions, a bright rdom, and careful watering — never directly or tq the tuber ~ are all these plants need if they are goihg to thrive. Indoor bulbs need similar conditions and, although -hpir flowers do not last for long inside the house, they are a welcome sight in spring, bringing engrmous pleasure, Bulbs like hyacinths, muscari, anq daffodils can all be planted outside in the garden when they have finished flowering The eymbidium orchids are an easy group of orchids to eltivate, and their exotic, waxy blooms ne moth orchid suit many cdntemporary settings. 1 (Phalaenops}s) is particularly striking, and while it may seem af expensive plant to buy, it can flower for several rhonths if kept at an even temperature of around 6P°F (16°C) and given good humidity, making it a jworthwhile investment. Handsome dlivia muGH't The Cijvia miniata comes in orange, red, yellow and cream wih bell-shaped flowers. Even when not in flower, the ciilbonlike leaves make an attractive feature. Orehid behind glass Modern display suiow The sper orchid (Paphiopedilum ‘Grozuer ——_W1GH'T The amaryllis (Hippeastrum) is very popular Castle) enpayk good cool light on this east-factng indoor bulb, producing a magnificent display of windowsill. Always remove plants from the windowsill glamorous flowers. lcmust be grown in a coo! positwon and at night wher temperatures drop only brought into a warm room when it comes ute flower PLANTS WITH STRONG. FLOWER IMPACT The following plants all have large, striking flower heads Amarylis Hppeastrum ovs) Christmas cactus (Sehtumbergera x buckley’) Cyetamen persicum Oleander (Nevium oleander) white Gardenia (Gardenia augusta) Gerbera jamesonit Lilies (eg Lilium ‘Casa Blanca’) Yellow ond orange Clora miata ‘Hibiscus rose sinensis Shrubby verbena (Lantana camara) 14 mauve ineraria Periealls x hybrid) Hydrangea macrophylla Passionllower (Passora ouerulea)PLANTS PLACE Partial Shade es no direct sunlight, although the overall light quality is not poor. Most plants\featured in this chapter will thrive in the back of a room, away from a large window. FOR THE LOWEHING HOUSEPLANTS do not thrive in the more #hady areas of the home, because they aximum light to keep flowering and However, there are many beautiful F foliage planks that will thrive permanently in a shady room hnd will cheer up the darkest corner A hallwdy or tanding is often an area that is cool, since itlis not heated to the same degree as the rest of the House. This can be a good area to grow cafy foliage plants, because they will not have to put up with the dry, arid atmosphere of the SPECIMEN PLANTS warmer living ‘The Boston fern (Nephrolepts exaltata) is a good subject for @ cool, shaded area ~ although it doesn’t like deep shade ~ and looks very handsome displayed on a large pedestal with its bright green fronds cascading over the sides, IF you need a taller plant, a fatshedera or Architectural aiGurT The fern was favored by the Victorians for its beautiful bushy habit. This plant is not a deep shade lover, but would do well near an east facing window: lay ‘ephrolepis exaltata ‘Bostoniensis) These plants have eye-catching foliage and a strong, architectural form, making them dramatic enough to display on their own in an attractive conteiner Narrow leafl fig (Ficus binnendijhii) ucLow The Fieus binnendijkii (also known as Ficus longifolha) is usually grown as @ tall floor: standing specimen (see page 47), but hhere it has aed? 27own into a shore, compact shape. Its shde-toierane and would do well standing on altable away from the window Miniature tree fern (Blechnum gibbum) aBove This fern has a crown of stiff fronds and a smalt trunk that grows as the plant ages. Iis arching shape is set off beautifully by the Victorian-style vasePARTIAL SHADE 33PLANTS POR philodencrdn would make a good floor-standing specimen ih a shady corner. For a table display, choose a grpuped arrangement of leathery-leaved scindapsus 4nd Ficus pumila, which will trail over the sides off the container. Another trailing plant, and one thaft is very easy to grow in partial shade, is the grape livy (Cissus rhombifolia). This has dark, glossy leevés that are often trained up a pole, although it gan be grown as a trailing plant, mak- ing it ideal for a hanging baske brown ai If the leaves turn hb tips, the air is too dry. One of fe advantages of growing plant containers {s that it gives you the flexibility to move them |around. Beware of leaving your plant Grouped dis ADovE A groub of dieffenbachias makes a striking feature in a moiern setting: Here, wo varieties are ‘grouped in cldy pot: with Pellaea rorundifolia arranged around the frat. The variegation on the leaves means these dieffenbhchias will not tolerate poor light. | 34 THE PLACE in a permanent position all year round. Even shade-loving plants enjoy a lighter position at some stage during their growing season to stimulate their growth and regenerate the plant. Rotating your shady plants from low light to stronger light is, a good idea, providing it is done gradually and plants are abie to acclimatize slowly, Once the sum mer is in full swing, give your plants a break by plunging their pots into a shady corner of the gar den where they will benefit from being out in the fresh air and an occasional shower of rain. Keep art eye on them as you would in the house to check for pests and diseases, and make sure yon bring them back into the house before any signs of frost, FERNS Ferns thrive in the humid, shady areas of the home, such at 1 steamy kitchen or bathroom. The varieties shown below ‘would all grow well in a terrarium or bottle garden Maiienhair fern Adiantum raddianim) Single plantin, Icitt This handsome erate table fern (Preis eretiea ‘Alexandrac’), with its long fronds and tipped leaflets, hhas reached ful size, making it dramatic enough to display on its own. These plats prefer a warm environment with good humidity, luke a bathroom.Conservatories 1, CONSERVATORY offers an opportunity to I creat an environment for both plants and peopl. Sunrooms and solariums also make perfect plates for growing plants, and even sereened-in porches can suit many plants at various times of the year. ‘There is so much more light in, room inside he home and, as long as the conserva sod and sunrooms than the average t tory does agt get too hot in summer, it will have good humidity and be the ideal place for many plants to tprive. Plants like plumbago, passion flower, jasmfne, and abutilon will flourish in the cool and humid conditions of a correctly situated conservatory, and others, such as pot hydrange: (Hydrangeal macrophylla) or primulas (Prim obconica), tat last only a short time inside the house will thrive for many weeks. Conservatories offer the chance to create somewhere quite differ ent from thd house or garden for growing plants. basket of columnea ABOVE Hanging baskets are tremendously successful in a conservatory where they can reach huge sizes. This exotic-looking Columnea Stavanger,’ with its red-lipped) blooms, needs room for its trauling stems to hang freely. ABOVE A consdrvatory provides the ideal environment Border display Sor tender plahts that need to be brought inside to 1uGHtr The bird's nest fern (Asplenium nidus) in this ‘protect them ftom winter frosts, This tender north-facing conservetory has grown to full size with Rhododendroh ‘Lady Alice Fitzwilliam’ overwinters fronds of 4ft (L2 m), giving architectural interest in in the conservhtory and produces a fantastic show both summer and winter. Variegated ivy provides good Of heavily scehted white flowers in early sprin ground cover around the base and keeps the roots moist 36‘The positiog of your conservatory is of the utmos' importance ff you want to fill it with lots of plants, as well as prpvide exira living space. A conservatory that is situated on a south-facing wall will become its own desprt in summer and no plants will be happy there. A south-facing conservatory or sun. room may He comfortable in winter when the sun, is weak, bu} in summer temperatures can soar to 100°F (37°C), making it a hostile place for both people and plants. Whatevér aspect, ceiling ventilation is essential Side ventildtion nnot ereate the sane buoyancy of atmospHfere. You must also supply adequate shading with Venetian blind or shades in summer PLANTS FOR THE PLACE, If your conservatory has a solid wall, this is an idea place to fix trellis or wires for climbing plants. Try and display your plants at different heights to give a tiered plant stand is ideal for this purpose, because it enables you to display several plants together. A shelf around the edge of the window makes a wonderfu| a natural growing environment Mass of Cape p aeLow The Cape primrose (Streptocarpus) is a native of South Africa that will flower over a long season Because these plants have delicate best displayed in a group on a low table to increase theis ular deadheading and fertilizing throughout impact. ReCONSERVATORIES home for tall or trailing plants, which can either be trained to grow up in front of the window or hang down below the windowsiit Most conservatories open directly onto the house and one of the joys of having such a room is the wonderful scent it provides when you open the doors in early summer. Scented plants, such as jasmine and trachelospermum, as well as those with aromatic foliage, like scented geraniums and the night-scented Cestrum nocturnum, are & valu- able addition in this still and warm environment that concent: Exotic looking lilies, such as Lilium regale or L. ‘Casa Blanca, are a must in summer, but be careful not to brush against the pollen-laden stamens, which can stain clothes. Your conservatory can become a magical green cave in summer with pots of many different plants. You could ry growing some of the exotic, old-fashioned conservatory plants so favored by the as the poor man’s their heady scent, Basket of begonias cove: This Begonia solananthera, uth zs aetractive ‘waxy leaves on tong trailing stems, will flower for many Victorians, such orchid months, if itis Kept in the right conditions. Choose a bright position out of direct sunlight and allow the soil to dry out between watering. The trailing stems snap easily, so be extra careful when watering. As begonias are prone to powdery mildew (see pages 116-7), always (chizanthus) or salpiglossis (Salpiglossis sinuata) In winter, seasonal flowering plants, such as azaleas, cyclamen, and primulas, will flourish in a cool conservatory. In fact, they are often happier provide adequate ventilation here than inside the house where the dry central heating can scorch their leaves and stunt their If a cyclamen or azalea begins to look unhappy indoors, it will often revive completely if given a short spell in a cool conservatory. The con ary for some of the tender rhododendrons and camellias that like to growth, servatory also provides san: spend the summer in a shady spot in the garden, but must be brought into a frost-free environment during the winter months. It is important 10 grow a selection of green foliage plants in the conservatory, which will pro- vide all-year-round color and interest. Ivies and ferns are relatively trouble-free and can be planted in pots and moved around according to the seasor Pots of leafy palms, both floor-standing specimens, such as the kentia or phoenix palm, and smaller varieties grouped on a table, add to the charm of many conservatories, And even “difficult” house- plants, like the maidenhair fern (Adiantum raddi: anurn), will flourish in a conservatory where they have adequate humidity and light. Wall of geraaiums Lure A solid wall is the perfece place to attach wires to train climbing plants. Here, variegated ivy (Hedera 5) promides all-year-round interest, while wy-leaved geraniums ~ including the mauve P. ‘La France’ give a splash of color in summer and early full 39PLANT DISPLAYS T HAS NEVER BREN easier to create stunning plant Joes in the home. Whether you are a keen indoor gardener or a complete novice, this section provides all the know-how and inspiration you will need to create arrangements for every situation, from a tiny nook or cranny to a spacious conservatory Learn how to group plants successfully, stake them, decoratively, and make a focal point of a handsome architectural display. ‘There are ideas for small flower ing and foliage displays, succulents and cacti, and sez at will ensure a brilliant show of color ail year round. Finally, there are tips on selecting containers, choosing plants to suit the decor of a room. sonal arrangements combining colors, and making the most of foliage texture and shape avowed group of busy tiaies (Impatiens ‘New Guinea hybrids) in mized colors autiful flowers of Leer The singularly zl speciosa) have speckled shroats and large petals 1PLANT. Groupin 1 BE grouped together because water vapor, which makes the P=) LIKE they bive of svrfolinding air humid and gives them a happy growing environment. From an aesthetic point of view 100, a group of well-thought-out plants will|make a stronger statement in a room, than severall individual pots spaced around randomly, ‘The decpr of your home plays an important role in your chdice of houseplants so make this your Consider the style of the room and your choice|of wallpaper or paint. An ornate wall paper, for efample, would completely overwhelm a delicate flokering plant or feathery fern. A room decorated with large, vertical stripes needs a bushy plant that will contrast with the stripes and stand out against {he walls. A fireplace is a popular place to dis starting poiht. ay hpuseplants in summer, but consider how much light}is available here before making your DISPLAYS g Plants n. A group of flowering plants may seem the ideal choice to brighten up a dark space, but they will not survive in shady conditions ~ whereas ferns will thrive in them (see page 32). Once you have decided on the location for you plants, you are free to make your selection at the garden center. You might decide on contrasting col ored flowers to suit a modern living room, or sooth, ing mauves and whites for an airy bedrocro. However, don't concentrate on color alone ~ con: sider the shape and form of the leaves too. The next consideration is a container. You can either choose a large single container, such as a bowl or dish, which looks good as a centerpiece op, a table, or a series of individual containers to suit shelf or windowsill. If you choose the latter, pick ones that complement each other in color and shape, as this will help to unify the arrangement Creating a balanced display br? A ceramic sponge- printed bowl makes a (perfect container for this bedroom arrangement in soothing shades of blue, sil: ver; lilac, and white. Noe hhow the trailing stems of the scindapsus complement the branches on the toile de Jouy wallpaper behind. When making a group of different plants, check that they all require the same growing conditions ~ these Plans would all enjoy a ‘warm situation, out of direct sunlight Matching pair nucies Plants with delicate flower heads, such as these Primula obconica, look ‘most dramatic when displayed together in a group. Hlere, they are placed on a kitchen shelf in ‘matching ceramic pitchers for an informal feel The ‘plastic pots fe neatly inside ‘he vims. Nowe how the plain green of the containers does not detract from the flowersPLANT DISPLAYS | Decorative Staking ips yor plants indoors, it is important that you sifake them successfully to create an Grow wailing or climbing Ww attractive digplay. This can be done in several ways, using baraHoo canes (sec below), moss poles (sce page 109) E ary frames (see opposite), or hoops made from arden wire (see page 198). Tabletop topiary, which involves training plants around a ‘wlre support, is fun and easy to do, and you can crepte lots of interesting shapes, Start by selecting arf evergreen plant with dense compact foliage and pliable stems. Ivy is ideal because it is fast-growink and comes in many attractive forms with silver, fvhite, and gold markings. It also grows easily from futtings, making it an excellent choice for growing over topiary frames where several plants are heeded. Simply snip off short lengths with some foots attached and plant them around dl is the miniature creeping fig (Ficus purnila), which can also be obtained in variegated forms. dge of a container, Another good foliage plan} Many flowering plants can be grow around hoops and frames (Stephanotis floribunda) is easy to train around & hoop and carries the added bonus of beautiful, scented white flowers. Another scented flowering plant that will quickly cover a trellis or pyramid is Jasminum potyanthum, with its pink tubular buds encouraged tf The wax flower that become white as the flowers open. Once you have selected your plants, decide what There are lots of commercial wire supports readily available from shape you want 10 train them nurseries and garden centers, You can choose from spirals, hoops, columns, and wreaths. If you can’t find one the correct size, try making your own from a wire coat hanger. USING BAMBOO CANES The most popular staking device is the bamboo cane, which can either be used with plastic ties to support individu to jrrop several stem *Casa Blancp’ lilies aBove Lihis large pot of lilies must be well-staked! tp support the large flowers. Place the barnbo canes in the pot as soon as the butbs show through, because you may darnage them by addlng canes at a later stage, Sietfire’ narpissus wourr Indivbluad pots of narcissus are rammed tnefther inthis basket and bamboo ‘eanes are ise! to support the plants’ stems ual stems (see left) or in a framework ns at once (ee below) M4Commercial topiary frames can be bou DECORATIVE STARING USING A TOPIARY FRAME Wire hoops anovt, Madagasvar jasmine (Stephanotis) and twy are ideal for ng around a wire hoop because their stems are pliable. Ivy pyramid ABOVE LEET Toy 1s a fast-growing foliage plant that will grow over a ‘wire frame like this one en about 18 months, depending on the cultivar: Ivy ball tier This topiary frame has been filled with sphagoium moss to form a ‘firm support for the iny tendrils to tling 10. Keep the moss moist at all times and feed the plants regularly 45 ‘ht from garden centers, or you can make your own using coat hangers or garden wire. Don't forget 10 paint the wire first to prevent i: rusting CLIMBING PLANTS The following plants are all suitable for growing up a Flowering plants Blnck-eyed susan (Thunbergia ata) Hoye tanceotara Jasmine (lasninum polpanttur) Mandevilla sanders Was lower (Sigphanatis Maribunday Potiage plants Cape ivy Senecio maerogtossus) Sreeping fig (Beus pumila) Ivy Wedera evs.) Philedenctron scandens Pathos vine ( Rhicisus 09. ‘inde S00.)NUMBER OF INDOOR plants are dramatic enpilgh to be given the spotlight and stand along in a room, making a real focal point This is pprficularly true of large plants, such as palms, which make handsome specimens and soon become yiart of the room's furniture, adding ele. gance anil style and lifting the decor. But not all architectijral plants need to be large. A pair of small dralea and yellow, nas, with their striped leaves of red play placed at hall, and these he space to a large floor-standing specimen. In ons, a li make an eye-catching @ either end f a table in an entrar plants ax ideal if you don’t have accommollal many situat} ‘ge specimen plant can present Standard trees of all shapes and s years if they are Rainbow plant beautiful upright Weeping fig RIGHT cream-splashed le 46 PLANT DISPLAYS Architectural Displays | | They are an expenswe investment, but will last for many (Dracaena marginata) Leet This elegant plant has been carefully grown into a varieties look good placed on either side of a doorway, while small plants suit « table display. (Picus benjamina) This popular, low main tenance plant is also available ina variegated form with ita wonderful spet fora modern merior. Here, the stems of several plants have been braided together to create an interesting usted trunk fewer problems than a group of smaller plants Although it might take up a great deal of spac there is only one plant to care for, while a group small flowering plants will all need individual attention. One of the main problems with large indoor plants is that they can become dusty, just like the furniture, and need regular cleaning antl sponging to keep the leaves dust-free (see page 118). Plants like the rubber plant (Ficus elastica, Kitehen display RIGHT A tall Ficus binnendijksi stands in the corner of this north-facing kitchen. Its long spiky stems contrast beautifully with the variegated spider plant on the pine dresser. STANDARDS | es make an eye-catching feature. | well cared for. shape. Tall saves, making ccimen plantPLANT DISPLAYS and the fiddle-leaf fig (Ficus lyrata) both have large leathery leaves that need regular care to keep them clean and healthy Finding an appropriate container co display a really largb plant can often prove to be a problem, but it would spoil the elegance of a large plant by placing ft In an unattractive plastic por. Large clay containers| with a plastic dish placed in the base to e available in every size and shape fron] garden centers and garden architecture collect exepss water, 3 stores, 63 ypu could make your own container from, a painted tin canister or wastepaper basket. iage display nis fresh-looking grouping of bird's nest ferns and fik plants (Aspleniom nidus, Pieus benjam. ina, and I. fumila) brightens up the corner of a north: Jacing haltiday. A hall 1s an ideal place to display plants, since it esyndp usually heated 10 the same degree as the rest of thy hppuse, buet make sure itis not drafty. Specimen plant \uove, While most plants benefit from being displayed in a group with similar plants, some, like this polyscias, ah dramatic enough to stand on their oun Kentia palip (Howea fosterians) Thicit Th entia palin s a graceful ahd elegant plan whch world look as good diyptayed with other plants as it would oh its own Canary date palm (Phoenix eanariensis) NiGuet Pal trees twere favored by the Victorans, who displayed huge examples in their houses and conservatories 48HERE IS a SMALL. flowering plant to choose [ from for every season of the year. Aim to grow a few different varieties that flower at different times so that you can keep the display going for qs long as possible. Starting in the fall, there are the delightful Cyclamen persicum culti vars that come in a variety of sof sinall cyclamen are really much more charming than their| larger cousins, and they often have attractive sflver-green leaves. In spring, there are a large number of bulbs and primulas to choose from, followed by geraniums, miniature roses, and margueriteb in summer. Small flowering plan’ colors. These usually look best if they are displiypd together, rather than randomly spac- ing them afound the room. When growing several plants teggther in one pot, make sure you buy enough pldnts to fill it entirely — you may need sianthus (Eustoma grandiflorum) NIGHT Lisiaquhus are most often seen in forisis used flouers, but divarf house- ‘plants in wpoplar drut the summer month These plaissjare best treated as short term investnlents and discarded afier flowering hak finished. purple, and white are PLANT DISPLAYS Small Flowering Displays three or four to create a really full display. A favorite place to show off houseplants is on the kitchen windowsill, where a row of three or four identical pots or ceramic pitchers can make a real feature filled with small flowering plants, such 4s cyclamen, in harmonizing colors. Flowering plants make popular gifts and many will flower for long periods of time. Choose frown African violets (Saintpaulia), which are available all year round in many colors, and kalanichoes, with their abundant star-like flowers that flower nop stop throughout the year hybrida) is @ pretty plant to give as a gift, with its Cineraria_(Pericallis mass of daisylike flowers covering the bright green, neart-shaped leaves. However, these plants should carry a warning, as they won't survive in an over- heated room and will also soon wilt and die if left on a hot windowsill. Gloxinias (Sinningia speciosa hybrids) EFT These exotic-looking planis are actually quite easy to look after: They come ina wide range of vibrant colors, their hand some flowers and leaves needing: na additional adornment.SMALL FLOWERING DISPLAYS BULBS Bulbs are very easy to grow indoors and usually flower several weeks earlier than they would outside. Buy bulbs as soon as you see them at the garden center, when they are at their freshest, and plant them immediately. Hyacinths above These hyacinths are grown in special ayacinth glasses without the need for soil. Simply place the bulb in the top of the glass and full it with water until it just touches the base of the bulb. But in a dark place and bring into the light when shoots appear. The bulb can be planted in the garden after flowering: Grape hyacinths (Muscari azureum) anove Being small, grape hyacinths are best grouped together in a large container, as here, oF planted as part of a bigger group of mixed bulbs They have the same cultivation requirements as hyacinths, and can be planted én the 1ave finished flowering. Tulips (Talipa ‘Red Riding Hood’) Luet This variety of tulips has been specially treated for indoor culture Here, six individual pots have been grouped into a large metal fi tray, lined first with plastic, then filled with soss. Do not overwater the bulbs, but keep the surrounding moss damp, which will provide welcome humidity.EAVES, 48 MUCH as flowers, contribute to the I attraptiveness of houseplants, and you can create some excellent displays using a selection of |small-leaved plants ju more drathatic, architectural-le ages 46-9) When) growing plants with small, fine leaves, you may have to group them together if the plants are naturally small, or still in their infancy, but once they yeach full size, they look imposing in as easily as the ed varieties (shown on their own right. If you browse around garden cen- ters, you jrill be surprised by how much color and variegation jthere is in any group of foliage plants that are grown for their leaves alone. As well as plants with variegated foliage, such as the spidet plant (Chlorophytum comosum) or the Ficus purtila ‘Sonny’ shown opposite, there are a wealth of| plants with red, pink, brown, and purple leaf marlings. An eye. would de Well as a pe ‘hing foliage plant that nanent planting is the Maidenhair fen (Adiantum radian Bird’s nes fern (Asplenie ius) PLANT DISPLAYS Small Foliage Displays Begonia bowerae, which has beautiful rust-colorett leaves with green markings and a bushy habit. One of the most popular colorful foliage plants is the polka dot plant (Hypoestes phyllostachya), with its brightly spotted leaves of pale pink. This is a plantt that can grow quite big, but as it generally becomes straggly with age, itis best used asa young plant to add interest to a small foliage display. A gooil ground-cover plant for a bottle garden is club moss (Selaginella martensii), with its fresh green, crecy} ing stems that form a dense mat of foliage. ‘Another group of small foliage plants that neeti mentioning are the miniature ferns seen fra quently in nurseries. These are baby versions of the bigger, full-grown plants, but when bought as small foliage plants they, too, can look attractive displayed in a group. The maidenhair fern (Adiantum raddianum) often shrivels and dies in an overheated home, and is especially suited to the warm humidity of a bottle garden. CREATING HUMIDITY Hany small or miniature foliage plants — ferns and mosses in particular ~ require high levels of humidity to prevent their leaves from shriveling and going brown, Finding ways to create humidity is one of the secrets of success with your houseplants. Club moss Gelaginstta martensit) Glass garden LEET Glass bottle gardens and terraria offer high levels of humidity and are deat for growing many small ferns and “baby” plants, Under normal conditions, water vapor given off by plants evaporates in the air; but in a bottle garden it condenses on the sides of the Container and trickles back into the soil This bottle garden is created from an old fish tank, which has been filled with an ‘assortment of miniature ferns and planes ‘ ‘SMALL FOLIAGE DISPLAYS Lunt d Victorian-style “long Tom” container is perfect Jfor this charming, dwarflike tree, with its head of delicate leaves. Creating topiaried shapes with houseplants is easy to do (see page 45). A pair of these trees placed on an aecasional or dining table would make an attractive and long-lasting feature in the home. X Trailing display ueLow The creeping fig (Ficus pumila Sonny’) 1s a versatile plant that looks as astractive grown up a pole as it does creeping along the surface of the soil. Here, itis displayed in a tall florists’ bucket, which allows the foliage plenty of room to tumble over the sides. Small foliage plants such as this are often used as fillers in large arrangements, but when given their own space, they become star performers on their own Single fern net When a plant is really well grown, and has formed ‘a good rounded habit, it can make a single architectural feature. This maidenhawr fern (Adiantum raddianum), wich les graceful bright green foliage, is a rather temperamental subject, but is happiest un & warm position with plenty of Iuumidity. Keep the foliage well-misted and place in'a bathroom or kitchen, where it will fenyoy the humid atmosphere.PLANT DISPLAYS Cacti and Succulents Gri) AND SUCCL e two fascinating available), and these are ideal plants for children, C: >ups of plants, The difference between because they are easy to maintain and tolerate /a the [two is that cacti have modified side little neglect. Their main growing requirement js shoots, called areoles, carrying spines or hairs, lots of warm sunlight, so find a warm, bright posi while sugciilents have fleshy stems or leaves that uon for your plants. Although cacti are drought-to} store wa'el Some cacti are smooth and round, erant, they do need watering during the summer, while others are knobily, but they have all a Modern cactus garden BELOW Stlver-painted pots of different height: ‘and surrounded by smooth themselves|to give off as little water grouped ble in theif natural habitat, Most garden centers, ti and succulents (see 57 for the best plants stock a gooll selection of pages 125+ | and 156 be, AT BO SS87 Different pots, different plants ABOVE Repotting miniature cacte into hand painted china cups of different heights and sizes is @ novel way of displaying these sculpteral plants. Making a collection of miniature cacti and succulents is an inexpensive hobby, and since the plants are easy to look afier; ideal for beginners Same pots, same plants Leer These miniature roses (Rosa chinensis “Minma’) are potted into small yellow and green striped china pots that exactly match thetr yellow flowers and green foliage ‘Because the pots are smail and will dry out quickly, make sure you water the plants on a regular basis. Remove dead or dying flower heads to maintain a healthy display. Low-level display LUFT A low foliage arrangement like this one would be ideal for the center of atable. Here, wo types of club moss (Selaginelta n planted in rows on a kitchen tray, creating « patchwork effect. These plants should be placed in a semishaded position, away from bright sunlight. They need imusting regularly to maintain humidity levels.s soon 4S chasstMAS is over, and all the decor A® ‘onb have been cleared avay, how nice it is 10 fee the early spring bulbs and spring flowering houseplants in the gard many bulls fre traditionally considered as outdoor feawures, sone can be grown successfully indoors Bulbs, sich as dwarf narcissi, crocus, and hyacinths, appear in the stores in bud well before any of the spring bulbs in gardens show through These buls| have been forced, but once you have enjoyed ther inside the house you can plant them outside in the garden to flower again the following year. After they have finished flowering, remove any dead flowers. When the fear of frost has passed, transfer them to the garden, keeping their leaves centers. While intact, where you must feed them with a higl pouash fertilizer every two weeks to encourage them to flower well nto the following year. Primula ively spring plant for the kitchen. obconica, with its delicate petals, makes a windowsill. When the flowers eventually die, you can encourage extra flowering by placing the plant in a cool conservatory or on a frost-free porch PLANT DISPLAYS Spring-flowering Displays where, after a short rest away from the central heating, a second flush of flowers will soon appear, ‘The hydrangea (Hydrangea macrophylla) is 4 popular spring plant, which makes a nice change from some of the smaller flowering specimens, Although you tend to buy these plants im spring) they will ower well into the summer months if given the correct treatment. Hydrangeas need 4 great deal of moisture, preferring rainwater to hard and they are best placed in a flat bottomed container so they can absorb water freely, tap water Surround the plants with damp moss to encourage humidity and keep them in a cool, bright situation. After they have finished flowering, prune back the stems and repot them into a larger container. These plants benefit from a short stay in the garden during the surnmer months. Simply bury the pot in a shady part of the garden, watering and feeding periodi cally with a high potash feed. In fall, bring the plant indoors to a cool, frost-free room and reduce water- ing to encourage the plant to rest. In early spring, gradually increase watering to bring the plant back into flower onet again. Line of three Luet Three pots of “yellow primroses ‘have been placed in this wigay po! holder to make a pretty feature. Keep ihe plants well-watered by removing their pots from the holder and submergin them in water These plants will not last long insede but will recover if put outside for a short time, an-ay- from central heating and dry aurSPRING-FLOWERING DISPLAYS Scented basket Anis: Korved Dutch teytcinths provede a welcome splash of color and wonderful fragrance early in the year: If the flower heads are heavy, insert a few tires t entra support Here. the necks of the bulbs are hden by fresh moss. PP Latus berteloun PLANTS FOR SPRING. flower in spring: ‘The following plan Amaryllis (tipeastram hybrids) ualen (Rhododendron ‘msi Begone x hiemals luefhowere torch ‘htandsa indent) livia miniaua Flamingo flower (ahurium ‘cherserianiun) Hyacinth (Hyaeunttus Orient) Paper Mower (ougainciled ‘labra) Parodia eysavantion Prima obconica Red erown eactus (ebutia ‘minuseula) Shrimp plant dusticia ‘rancdegecana) Shrub verbena (Lantana amare) Atrean temp (Sparrmannia rina) Tulips Mulipa cvs.) Urn plant Cfechmee fascia) tangea macrophyle Indoor window box neiow The delicate yellow heads of Nexeiss Je" look very attractive displayed en this which has been made waterproof by lining it with plastic and fresh moss. When flowering has finished, the bulbs can be planted outsidePLANT DISPLAYS Summer-flowering Displays os} GARDEN plants are at their best at this vatieties that you can bring indoors to decorate your home, including roses, busy lizzies, lilies, marguerites, and fuchsias. Be carofil of displaying your plants on a south facing windpwsill in summer. Although plants may be happy tHere in winter when the sun is at its weakest, in during the Geraniui st varieties will scorch and dry out Jot noon summer sun. s are one of the few plants that will tolerate a warm, sunny position in summer, but even these ned constant care and attention to keep them healtiy. Display regal and zonal geraniums on the windbwsills of @ conservatory or plant them into hanging baskets. If you don’t have a conserva tory or suinfoom, you can make an eye-catching display by s on an occasional table or sunny windowsill. Look out for th¢ old-fashioned varieties with their exotic-colored flowers. The Cale primrose (Streprocarpus) is another exotic-lookitg p ity. A relative of the African violet, it comes in similar colofs and should be displayed in the same table. T ending several different types together ant that is increasing in popular together in a shallow bow! on a low plant has a long flowering season, and providing ypu feed it regularly throughout the summer, will flower well into the fall. Always water thisiplant from below and never directly onto the leaves, which will rot if they become wet Basket of roses (Rosa ‘Grand Palace’) ABOVE Miniature roses should be regarded as short-term houseplants, because they do not flourish in the dry atmosphere of the average centrally heated or air-condi tioned room. Treat them as otidoar plants, bringing theme indoors when they come into flower and rewrning them to the garden immediately afte. Busy lizzies (Impatiens hybrids) are a really good choice if you want a plant that will go 0 flowering throughout che summer. They are available in red, orange, purple, and white, and can look striking if you group several contrasting or complementary colors together in a matching container. Summer daisy basket Leet These marguerites (Argyranthemum frutescens), planted together in a gray and white basket, will tolerate «a sunny position, but need! to be kept moist if they are 10 continue flowering ove? along period. Keep dead- heading regularly to encourage more flowers w form.SUMMER-FLOWERING DISPLAYS | Informal grouping auovt d variety of exotic-looking, old-fashioned gerani- tus — including White Bonanza,’ Vicky Claire,’ and ‘Dark Venus’ make an informal display in this rustic looking garden basket. When displaying plants in a large group such as this, keep them in their ‘own pots 30 that you can tend to and water them on an individual basis. Here, we have balanced the ones at the back on upturned flowerpots, using handfuls of fresh moss to keep the pots upright. These plants really hate being overwatered, so make sure you allow the soil to dry out between watering. Fertilize throughout the summer and deadhead regularly, as this will encourage along show of flowers. FLOWERING PLANTS FOR The following plants all flows Basket plant (eschynanihus spectosus) Begonia vowerne Bleeding heart (Clerodendrum ‘homsoniae) Brazilian jasmine (Mandela sander) Busy lzay (Impatiens evs) Cape leadwort (Plumbago ‘auriculaia) Precsa evs Gerbera jamesonis SUMMER Golden trumpet (4tlamanda tualian betinower (Campanula ‘sophylia) Lily (Latium spp.) Miniature was plant (Hava lanceolata subsp, bella) Orchid (Cymbidium by ids) Petargonium evs Persian violet (Exacum affine) Zebra plant Cphelandra squarresa "Lovisae’)V DAYS WECOME shorter and the plants in che ghrden start to die off, many of us turn garden center or nursery to look for ways to brighten up our homes, Fresh flowers from the florist aye often expensive at this time of the year, so it m| es sense to invest in some well-cho. sen flower ng houseplants that will give you plea- sure as yop watch them grow and flower throughout the winter months. This is che season when mass-produced “ plants come|into their own — begonias, cyclamen, kalanchoes, all bring a w but remem) ind Christmas cacti. These plants wil ‘come splash of color into your home, + that they are cultivated in the nurs ery in a contfolled environment and like to be kept at a constanf temperature. Azaleas, in particular, ‘posed to sudden drafts of cold air — even the shaft journey home from the garden cen. ter or mursefy can shock these plants and make them shed their flowers ~ so make sure you have them packe@ up carefully in plastic before you leave the hujlding. hate being Massing p'abts together DELOW Tou cab increase the impact of a display by massing severy individual plants together in one pot Here, eight stfpcking pink Christmas cactus plants Gchlumbergdra sp) are grouped in a large clay pot to give the imprhssion of a single plant PLANT DISPLAYS Vinter-flowering Displays Leaf texture and shape ABOVE The delicate white flowers of this Begonia Bettina Rothschild’ are pale by comparison with its huge, dark, hairy leaves Most houseplants will benefit from being massed together in one container, rather then being pos: tioned all around the house randomly, so try to buy, as many plants as you can afford to create a really impressive display. ‘This is particularly true in a large room, where a single display of four or five Christmas cacti or Hiemalis begonias, grouped together in a large clay bow! or rusti¢-looking bas ket, can appear quite spectacular. FLOWERING AND BERRYING PLANTS FOR WONTER The following plants all flower in winter: Alioan violet (Suimspautia evs) Azalea (Rhododendron sini) Begonia hiematls Calamondin orange ( Curafortunela Christine exes Schaenbergerax ‘buckley ‘Chrysanthemum (rgvranttemum spp) Gyclamen persicum Egyptian sar cluster Pemtas lanceolata) Flamingo flower Cinhurdun schereerianin Jasmine (Jasminum polyanthum) Money plant (ucla makoyana) ‘Ornamental pepper (Capsicum annuum) Poinsettia (Euphorbia puleherrima)WINTER-PLOWE RING DISPLAYS One of the drawbacks of “gift” plants, such as cyclamen and begonias, is that the flowering for more than a month. These are gener ally regarded as short-term houseplants that should be discarded after flowering. One plant that has a slightly pot almost every rarely go on longer flowering season is the chrysanthemum, color except blue. Tf you don’t like the idea of throwing your plants away after they have finished flowering and you do not have a conservatory, sunroom, or spare which comes in room where you can give them a rést before bring ing them into flower again next year, then the best alternative is to invest in a flowering houseplant with attractive foliage, such as a zebra plant je mixed arrangement ABOVE This preserving pan makes an excellent ho aan exotic display of winter-flowering plants in shades of red. orange, and pink, including flamingo flower (Anthurium scherzerianum), Calamondin ora c (Rhododendron simsii), ¢ for srofortunella microcarpa), Begonia bowerae, azalea ind Cyclamen persicum. When grouping several different houseplants together in this way, it ts important to check that they all have same cultivation requirements (Aphelandra) or Rex begonia, which will provide The peace lily Spathiphyllum wallisii) is another good house plant for winter, with elegant pure white flowers held above glossy, long, pointed leaves, which look attractive even when the plant is not in flower. interest throughout the year. 63PLANT DISPLAYS Grouped Flowering Displays \ / | thi cit} assortment the same g) aesthetic po ing plants together: the color o! FLOWERING plants look best when ry are massed together in a group, her with identical plants or with an pf different varieties that all require rowing conditions, There are several Ints to consider when grouping flower ne flowers; the shape and frm of the flowers; the size of the con- tainer, and Color s flowering p! indoors wl lhe room setting. ne of the most signif atures of ints, and this is particularly important re you want to create splashes of brilliant color in lifeless living rooms. Your choice of color will usually be influenced by personal taste and this means the style or decor of your room. In general, cool, subtle color harmonies ~ blues, pinks, mauves, and whites ~ are easier to live with than Cool white arrangement BELOW This closely planted basket contains a azalea and a white African violet, with a pter the back to provide height and some trailing tvy around the front to soften the container. The advantage of a grouped display is that when the flowering plants are over, you can replace them with something different.African violet (Gainepauiia cv.) African violet (Sainipautia ew) GROUPED FLOWE vibrant, clashing colors ~reds, yellows, and oranges, which tend to dominate or overpower. Even so, the latter are particularly useful in winter wh light levels are low and a tigorous treatment needed to lift an otherwise dul! room. When planning @ grouped arrangement, try to choose plants that complement each other in form as well as in color, rather than picking several plants that compete for attention and spoil the potential harmony. In general, smaller plants ben: efit from being massed together in a group, while is those with large Dower heads are best displayed as, single specimens. Lilies, gerberas, sunflowers, and orchids all have drai can frequently overwhelm and detract from the ic-looking flowers whieh COOL C Flowers with a hint of blue or white i RING DISPLAYS quieter charms of small flowers. These plants are best displayed on their own in single pots or grouped with similar varieties. Some will need dis- creet staking to keep them growing in a good shape, but even this must be done with care, or it will detract from the beauty of the flowers. ‘The size and shape of the container is another important factor when combining flowering plants. Not only must it match the scale of the plants, but it must also harmonize with the flowers. Some peo- ple think that white containers are a safe choice for displaying indoor plants, but unless your schen incorporates a lot of white flowers, they can often look very stark when set against healthy looking plants. A safer choice is green or terracotta, which OLORS in their make-up appear much cooler than those with yellow or red. A toning display of white, pink, or blue flowers can have a very calming effect. Cape primrose (Sireptacarpus‘Kira’) Pelargonium White Bona of a | Morgue (Araya fratescen an 4 Pelargoninme ‘Imperial Butterfly! 65 Mauye and silver AUOVE The silver-leaved foliage of Kalanchoe ‘Primavera’ combines particularly well with cool colored flowers, especially blues, mauves, and whites Purple and blue Lert This harmonizing arrange ment of cool blue campanutas and mauve African violets is sooubing on the eye, making ita successful scheme for'a bedside table.PLANT DISPLAYS tends to Ibok good with most color schemes and never domurla’ f attractive containers that are al If you have a group roughly painting th¢m in different colors and displaying hem in a rqw along a shelf or work surface When cieating an arrangement thet relies on nt that you keep flower power alone, it is impor your plants {n tip-top condition. Keep in mind that most How ch plants are grown in nurseries in controlled ehvironment and that very few thrive in ul ditioned homes. [f the leaves show signs of scorch IL of n that your plants are not receiving arid atmbsphere of centrally heated or air-con- marks or the buds or flowers prematurel this is a sure si enough humidity (to increase humidity, follow the advice on pay need 7). Most flowering plan feeding thrdughout their flowering season to keep Jeadheading will also encourage an additiona) show of flowers. ‘The same applies to leaves. It is pointless to concentrate your attention on growing spectacular flowering plants if the leaves are ye lowing through neglect. Nothing will induce then any that have to turn green ag become discolored immediately. While many flowering plants are considered as ents short-term invest ‘and thrown away after flowering, some can be encouraged to flower ag the following year if they are given a rest period when watering is reduced. [f you don’t like the idea of throwing away your plants and have a cool spare where you can care for them during the ter, follow the advice on overwintering in the Care nd Maintenance section (see page 93)GROUPED FLOWERING DISPLAYS HOT COLORS The flowers below all have yellow or red in their make-up, and combine well with other yellow, red, or orange flowers to create a contrasting display. Peers Ce Sen Si S vealteriana) / ; ff i Pelargonium je a9 BP busy lnay Palae geaclee (mpatiens New Alternative display ABOVE A line of dwarf sunflowers would look very striking in place of the gerberas shown on the lofi. Sunflowers have the same cultivation requirements as gerberas (see page 162), and they grow quickly from seed. Contrasting arrangement Lert Three cheerful looking gerberas provide a splash of color on a wooden shelf. ‘The painted clay pots give the scheme a fresh, contemporary feel.PLANT (0S PEOPLE are seduced by a plant's flowers, \ /| rather than by its foliage, and this is par- ticularly true of houseplants. Many flow. ering plants|are bought on impulse, seasonal plants that are choosen as short-term investments to brighten up the home. Foliage plants, while not always the first choice, have a much longer lifes- pan, and th¢se plants are indispensable in partially shaded rooms, where flowering plants rarely survive due to poor light. Many of the large foliage plants are covered jn the section on Ar on pages 46149, In this chapter, we concentrate on itectural Displays Jeaf color and form creating an all-foliage Importanc to pick eaves rn color as well as in 6 stiff, upright foliage contrasts with the leaves of the hypoestes Combining BeLow Mien display, itis that contrast form. Here, d of the draviae soft, trailing Dracaena fragrans (Preriscretica) | Compacta group a i Pypoct phylloseachya) Hare's foot fers Polypedium Maidenhair fern Adiantum raddianum) Cretan brake fern Bird's nest fern Aspleninm niius) DISPLAYS Grouped Foliage Displays some of the smaller specimens that often look best when they are massed together in a group. Plants like growing together because they give off water vapor, which makes the surrounding aiy humid and gives the plants a happier growing envil ronment. From an aesthetic point of view, too, ¢ group of well-thought-out plants will make a strony Combining leaf color, shape, and form RIGHT 4 wrought iron chair in this north-facing conservatory makes a comfortable home for a group of foliage plants. Sec how the variegated spikes of the ivy contrast with the feathery fronds of the adiantur. SMALL GROUPED DISPLAYS mall foliage plants are available from the garden center throughout the year and really benefit from being grouped together. For best results, concentrate on choosing plants with different leaf shapes, colors, and forms Polystichum teussimense Hare's foot fern (Palypodinan Sy aureum) Puerisensiformis ‘Bvergemiensie’ Combining leaf texture and shape ABOvE This fern grouping relies on a combination of variously textured leaves in various shapes and sizes for impact The bird’s nest fern, with its large glossy leaves, contrasts well with the feathery spires of tht mmaidenhair fern. Ferns need a lot of humid ity, s0 mist your plants daily and keep the Soil on the moist, bul not wet, side.GROUPED FOLIPLANT statement it} a room and look much more imposing than a single plant sitting on its cwn. One of the most imporjant considerations when grouping dil. ferent plants together is to make sure you choose ones that ofiginate from the same habitat — not only will {rest ferns look odd set against desert cacti, but they need different growing conditions. When you visit the garden center, you will soon discover that foliage plants are far more colorful you previously imagined. The rea n they are exhibited with DISPLAYS spectacular, Only when you single out foliage plants on their own do you start to appreciate their immense variety ~ not only of color and size, but of leaf shape and form. Colors range from thy meadow green of maidenhair fern (Adiantum rad. dianum) and golden-green of Scindapsus ‘Neon’ to the deep red of Rex begonias. When grouping dif ferent foliage plants, try to choose a variety of ning trailing plants A pair of wooden receptacles make unusual containers for these trailing plants. Here, we have selected Scindapsus pictus, Scindapsus ‘Neon, ”and variegated ivy (Hedera cv.)colors and forms for a really spectacular display. Large plants, such as the weeping fig (Ficus ben: jamina), will often benefit from being grouped with small variegated plants, such as the creeping fig (Ficus pumila ‘Sonay’), <= which is fringed with white Not only do = variegated plants break up the monotony of the evergreen leaves, but the trailing habit of many varieties looks pretty spilling over the top of the container and is useful for concealing the bare soil sur- face, If possible, try to keep the smaller plants in d them on an their original pots, so that you ca: individual basis. If they require extra height, support them on upturned flowerpots. Hanging basket RGHT A hanging basket for the canservatory or porch contains a mixture of different foliage planis, whose leaves (below) contrast well together to give an interest- ing planting of shape and texture. The hanging stems of the vaxifraga can reach up to 2 fi (60 cm}, so this basket needs lots of growing space. Tradescantia Tradescantia Varicgata ‘Quicksilver Scindapsus Tradescantia sebrina Goatsaor dj "TRAILING PLANTS The flowing pans hoe a rlng or reping hanging ask & 4 | "Ge bina nrc) ‘Albowittata’) (Philodendron scandens) | 1CARE AND MAINTENANCE epotting, and pr healthy plants 1s to care for th d stakes. Among other topies covered include hydrocul- Iii) is best planted in a nidity to grow wellNY Lat short hom: ‘P= whether large or small, for the term, or a permanent addition to the ~ is an investment, and a little esearch bere beying will save wasting money. A plant for in} position ~ s wide range garden cent suit almost Tn orde Th Leaves During dayl absorbed vi leaves. Gree cells absorag arate into ity throvgh the bines with starches thay Stems Transportat leaves and n| the plant is Photosynthes During photos convert carbon| feed the plant Oxygen, Carbon dioxide Water and mineral salts loors is usually destined for a certain ch as a windowsill, shelf, or table, The of plants available in the nursery or ier ensures that there is something to very situation (see Plants for the Place, jght hours, carbon dioxide in the air is stomata on the undersides of the In pigment (chlorophyll) in the leaf light, causing water in the cells to sep |drogen and oxygen. Oxygen is released |stomata at night while hydrogen com- lcarbon dioxide to form sugars and feed the plant. mn of carbohydrates down from the ftrients up from the roots to the rest of Ichieved through a series of cells in the thesis, the green parts of the plant which |diomide into carbohydrates, Water and mineral salts HOW THE PLANT GROWS 10 thrive, every part of the plant has to be kept actively growing and in good condition. is can be achieved by creating as ideal an environment for the plant as possible, CARE AND MAINTENANCE The Plant’s Needs pages 16-59). All plants differ in their demand for light, warmth, humidity, and space, so it is worth assessing how much of each is available before you make your choice. Conditions vary throughout the year, so make sure you assess them continually. Remember that indoors, the plant has no natural resources to call on, so you must provide everything for it or it will die, Give a plant the right conditions and treatment, however, and it will flourish. Stomata The underside of the leaf is covered with ty pores (stomata), through which gases and moisture are exchanged, enabling photo: synthesis and respiration t0 take place, stem oi the plant. The flow is continuous, unless there is a shortage of water, when an interruption will cause the plant to wilt. Indoor plants in warm conditions tend to dry out quickly, so regular water- ing is essential. Roots Water and nutrients im the soil or potting mix are absorbed by thin feeder roots. They are then trans ported to the rest of the plant along thicker, more fleshy roots. These larger roots also serve to anchor the plant in the soil mix and hold it steady. If the roots dry out, they are unable to function, and any restriction in their growth will limit the growth of the rest of the plant. The growing medium A good-quality growing medium, which is kept moist and well-supplied with nutrients, will pro, vide all the stability and nourishment a growing plant requires. It should be checked on a regulat basis to make sure that the roots still have enough, space in which to grow, and that no soil-dwelling pests have taken up residence (see Pests and Diseases, pages 116-7) 14THE PLANT*S NEEDS LIGHT A healthy plant depends on an adequate supply of light 10 allow the process of photosynthesis to take place. Photosynthesis provides the carbohydrates essential to a plant’s existence. Without it, the plant’s growth and flowering w Light intensity The amount of light received varies according to the plant's position. The plant at the window isin direct sunlight, the other two receive indirect sunlight, Light is essential to the plant in order for the process of photosynthesis to take place, when chlorophyll within the leaves reacts with light to produce sugars and starches that nourish the plant. Inadequate levels of light mean that the process slows down, and the plant begins to suffer slow growth and a lack of flowers. Prolonged exposure to poor light will result in a pale-colored plant that becomes elongated in its search for light, and is left weak and floppy in the process. Many indoor plants — especially those with large leaves ~ are prone to a build-up of dust in the home, and this can interfere with photosynthesis, Plants with smooth leaves should be wiped regu- larly with a damp cloth or sponge (see page 118), while those with hairy leaves should be brushed gently with a soft paintbrush. Variegated leaves have no chlorophyll in the white, cream, or yellow parts of the leaf, so the area available for photosynthesis is restricted, and the need for light is comespondingly higher: If there is inadequate light, the plant will adapt by increasing the pigment Ja the paler part of the leaf, resulting eventually in a total loss of variegation. 15 1 begin to slow down, Sources of light As well as the intensity of the available light, the duration of the light is also important. Nearer the equator, light levels are consistent all year round, whereas farther away there is a marked difference between levels in summer and winter. Flowering plants, in particular, demand long periods of light to initiate the formation of the flower buds. All flowering plants fall into one of two categories: long-day plants, which flower when the light lasts for 12 hours or more over a given period, or short- day plants, which flower when the light lasts for less than 12 hours a day over a given period. It makes no difference to the plant whether the light is natural or artificial (supplementary), which is how growers are able to produce flowers on plants such as poinsettias and azaleas outside their natur- al flowering season. They manipulate the plants’ day using a combination of black plastic sheets to simulate the darkness of night and electric lighting to simulate daylight. Plant tolerance Ina situation where the light received by a plant is from one side only, the plant's natural instinct is to grow toward the light source, making the plant lo- sided. This is called phototropism and is best avoid- ed by either moving the plant to a position with a move even supply of light, or by turning it around by a quarter every day (so that over a four- day peri od, the whole plant has received equal shares of direct light). Phototropism When the light received is from one direction only, the natural tendency of the plane is 10 grow toward it (ehororropism) — making it lopsided. Turn the plant regularly to avoid this.CARE AND MAINTENANCE TEMPERATURE Indoor plants originate from all over the world — from both tropical and temperate regions — and this is reflected in the temperatures they require to grow well. Try to match plant and position as closely as possible Every plany has an ideal temperature range in which it prefers to grow, and a wider one that it can tolerate, When grown in its ideal range ~ if all other circumstances, such as moisture, are also ade- quate ~ the plant will thrive, maturing to produce lush foliage |and rich flowers. In the range it can tolerate, growth will be slower, foliage harder and darker,)and flowers smaller or nonexistent. Outside these ranges, the survival of the plant can- not be guaranteed. Most plants can survive short-term seasonal changes, such as in winter when central heating is turned on, Hlowever, they are less tolerant of sud- den fluctuations of temperature, such as a draft from a dost|or window. Since many indoor plants hail from colmtries as warm as Brazil and Africa, it is understandable that they do not like the cold, and prefer alwarm, humid environment. Check the growing reghirements on the label before you buy: TEMPERATURE CHECKLIST «© during the growing season, most indoor plants need t0 be kept at temperatures of 59-70°F (15-21°C) ‘ plants from temperate regions need a cooler site, at 50-S0°F (1-15°C) '* young plants and seedlings grow best at 6+-70°F (18-21°C), away from direct sun ‘# never site plants directly over sources of heat, such as replaces, or near air-conditioners '# Keep sensitive plants away from drafts ‘¢ most plants need a winter rst period in eooler conditions ‘¢ in winter, remove plants from the windowsill at night, since temperatures behind drawn curtains are generally colder than those inside the room ‘¢ an unshaded windowsill facing the sun during summer will be 100 hot for most leafy plants, and even ‘some succulents GROWING IN BOTTLE GARDENS Bottle gardens provide high levels of humidity, making them especially useful ‘for displaying moisture-loving mosses and ferns. ‘The advaptage of growing plants inside a bottle garden or|terrarium is that the humidity levels are high, profiding the ideal environment for speci mens haf need moist conditions. AIL the water given off) by the plants during transpiration is condensed on the sides of the glass and runs back into the oil, Keeping both the growing medium and the afr constantly moist. Cover the base with Sprinkle the surface a lavenof gravel, with a handful of which encpurages charcoal to keep the drainage fway from soil fresh. Add a layer of the rooting zone potting soil 16 3 Genty remove the plan from their pots and position according to how the garden will be viewed, adding more soil around each Water to settle, adding more soil 10 bring the level up if it sinksTHE PLANT'S HUMI NEEDS DITY Humidity and watering are often linked because both involve moisture, but quantifying the humidity requirements of a plant is much more difficult than gauging its watering needs. ‘The term humidity refers to the amount of water being held as vapor in the air. This can be mea- sured as a percentage, with 0 percent being totally dry aiz, and 100 percent so saturated that the vapor can be seen (as fog or steam). The amount of water vapor held in the atmosphere varies according to the temperature, since warm air holds more vapor than cold All indoor plants, even succulents and cacti, need a humidity level of between 40 and 60 per- cent to sustain them during transpiration, when water is lost through the stomata in the leaves as they open to allow the intake of gases for photo. synthesis (see p.74). The warmer the air, the drier it tends to be, and the more water is lost through the leaves. Thin, papery leaves — in particular, fern fronds — are more susceptible to drying out than thick, leathery leaves, although both can suffer in very dry conditions. If the water is not replaced quickly by the roots, the result will be brown tips and edges to the leaves, where the cells have died. Damaged leaves will not recover and should be removed to prevent infection How to improve humidity Improving humidity means increasing the amount of water vapor held in the air. This can be done in various ways. The easiest method is to use a fine- spray mister around the plant at least once a day, and more often if the temperature is high. This creates a localized increase in humidity, as the spray evaporates off the surfaces of the leaves, stems, and soil, and into the surrounding air. This effect can be enhanced by grouping several plants together, since the evaporation is trapped under several layers of foliage, causing a moist microcli- mate to form around the plants. Small, portable electric humidifiers are conve- nient, and can be used to increase the moisture level of the air indoors, or in the conservatory (if simply soaking the floor or the soil is not an option, or the plants are all in containers). However, these can be expensive, and are therefore not an option, for just one or two plants. In the home, humidity tends to be highest in steamy rooms, such as the kitchen and bathroom. As long as the overall tem- perature is high enough, plants that need humidi- ty often do best in these locations. 7 ‘Tray of pebbles Placing a plant on a tray containing pebbles and water allows evaporation up around the sides of the pot and past the foliage. {is important to make sure that the base of the pot itself is above the water level, otherwise the roots will rot we ; The ly pe contining tis acaba latch peers oo vost rot conan) kas | bemer sea rser | conan ined with vr pagar mos ‘he movtre from te mrs apart rercsing imi el aun theta | Moss Ii Misting a plant Use tepid water to ‘mist plants that like high humidity at least once a day, ‘and more often in warmer conditions, since the effect is immediate rather than long-lasting HUMIDITY PROBLEMS Low humidity 4 flower buds fail to develop or fal! off ‘¢ flowers wither soon after opening «brown edges or tips appesr on leaves «plant begins to wilt High humidity: «gray mold is visible on leaves and/or flowers «patches of rot appear on plants such as desert cacti, which prefer low humidity fe soft, sappy growthCARE AND MAINTENANCE WHERE TO SITE THE PLANT. Planus are|generally remarkably tolerant, often surviving periods spent in less-than-ideal conditions Plants woul where the restricted, a ‘these constr age to survi a testimony to the ability habitat for t not naturally choose to live indoors, ir is dry, the growing area is severely d supplies of water are limited. Given tions, it is amazing that plants man- fe indoors at all, yet they do, and this is th to the resilience of the plants and of the collector to provide as good a 1em as possible. What to avgid The worst ee in the house, in plant terms, are in areas of flirect heat, deep shade, or strong air currents. Not many plants will tolerate any length of time on alwindowsill facing the sun during sum- mer, when the intensity of the heat can bring the water withif the leaf cells to boiling point and cause thera fo die. While sugh plants as desert cacti have adapta- tions that allow them to cope with heat, most oth- ers begin tf exhibit signs of scorching, such as brown patcifes on the upper parts of the leaves. Eiven the neat from a radiator, television set, or refrigerator \will damage @ plant if it comes into Entraneefhall Living room (shady: sme dra) (warm, bright light) # toleran} foliage planes 4 most indoor plants floworifg plants foliage and flowering that nepd less light and seasonal pot plants will calbrate drafts «© cacti and succulents ‘© plan's hat have dark «# boule gardens ree Ipaves Dining room plans Hith way eae ieee ect ight) Stairs landing ‘# most indoor plants, (cool, indrect light) foliage and flowering ‘© larger fplioge planes # seasonal pot plants | ecyeleantn, azaleas, and thes flowering plants that prpfer cool conditions «¢ small plants in grouped arrangements 1 bottle gardens or foliage plants terraria coithout suffering too much damage. However, to get the very best from your plants, try to site them according to their needs. direct contact with it ~ the upper part of the plant may enjoy the warm environment, but the roots will suffer as the soil dries out far more quickly than it would do otherwise In deeply shaded areas of the home, light levels are not great enough to allow photosynthesis to take place, denying the plant the carbohydrates it needs to live; and in drafty positions, poor bumidi ty causes the leaves of more delicate species to wilt and turn brown. Seasonal change In winter, plants will need to be repositioned with, in the house. Those needing a period of dormancy should be moved into a cooler room, such as a spare bedroom, so they can rest before the next growing. season. Others, such as those on windowsills, should be brought into the main room overnight to escape the cold. Light intensity will also affect where you position your plants (see pages 16-39). For example, a plant that thrives in the middle of the room in summer, when light levels are high, usually needs to be closer to the window in wintes WHERE TO POSITION PLANTS AND WHY ‘Thy to make use of the different ways in which planes can be displayed: in floor-standing containers; on pedestals; on furniture; or hanging from the ceiling or wall. Kitehen (lwetuating temperatures, Main bedr (arm, bright light) rafts, steam) # herbs # lowering indoor plants, including ‘© plants with thin, papery grouped arrangements Teaves, such as Ficus of seasonal plants pumila chosen to march the ‘tolerant plants, such as decor of the oor geraniums «foliage plants Bathroom (fluctuating temperatures, steam) Spare bedroom {(€oo, indirect light) « plants that need high humidity, such as ferns @ overwintering plants ‘e dramatic foliage plants seeds and cuttings ‘e trailing foliage plants @ flowering plants that | ‘tolerant houseplants, ssuch as chlorophytum: ope la | | 78THE PLAN NEEDS CHOOSING A HEALTHY PLANT Indoor plants are sold in a wide variety of outlets, from supermarkets to nurseries, and they will have received very different levels of care. Outlined below are the main points to look for when selecting a new plant. ‘The better condition the plant is in when it is pur- chased, the better its chances of survival. A plant that is sold at the nursery where it was raised should be in the best possible condition, because it will be younger and heaithier than those which have had to undergo the stress of being transport ed. Plants sold along the roadside or from a garage driveway are exposed to drying winds, high or low temperatures ( pollution, In a supermarket, unless there is a sepa- rate area dedicated to plants, the watering might be erratic and the lighting poor. In the garden center, they should be well cared for in terms of watering, although the longer they remain unsold, the more they will begin to suffer as their reserves of slow. release fertilizer run out (see pages 82-3) ding to the time of year), and How to select a healthy plant Look for a plant with strong, healthy-looking leaves of a good, vibrant color, with no blotches or nibbled edges. The stems should be firm, rather than floppy or limp, and the growth should be com- pact, not long and weak — the latter indicates a PROBLEMS TO LOOK OUT FOR «© sweak, pale, spindly growth © & plant that has al Finished flowering 4 Teaves with blotches, wiggly lunes, holes, or mibbled edges 1 sects anyehere on the plant « curled or twisted new shoots «© oval brown lumps on the stems or Ieaves «© gray mold anywhere on the plant 1 soggy, rotting patches ox the stems 1 shrunken, withered roots «smelly of white-encrusted soil dry. ond soil that as shrunk from the sides of the pot 1 pests aumid the roats ‘¢ valung leaves, limp stems period spent in poor light. Choose a plant which has most of its flowers still in bud to give the longest flowering season, and check the leaves and stems for any pests, such as scale insects or whitefly (see page 116). Disease will show itself as gray, furry mold around the base of the plant, or as pale blotches on the surfaces of the leaves. Check the condition of the potting soil, too —if it is smel or white-encrusted, the plant has probably been overwatered at some stage and the roots may damaged. If the soil is dry and hard, or if it has shrunk away from the sides of the container, che plant has been underwatered. Size is a matter of preference: a small plant will cost less, and although it will soon need repotting, it will adapt quickly to its new surroundings and mature rapidly. A larger specimen will have instant, impact, although it will cost more and may take longer to adjust to the conditions in its new home. Some plants that are bought in flower, such as primroses and spring bulbs, have the attraction that once they have finished flowering, they can be planted outside to be enjoyed for years to come. Plant with healthy roots Ease the plant out of its por to check thar the roots are light-colored, firm, and fee of insect larvae Uf they protrude through the base of the pot, the plat és pot-bound and needs 10 be repotied as soon as possible (vee pages 88-92),CARE AND MAINTENANCE Buying and Setting Up Re ,|the business of acquiring equipment beging — whether it remains fairly basic or progresses tp the level required by the dedicated collector. Mpst garden centers sell a bewildering array of tools and equipment, most of which falls into the “nige to have,” rather than “need to have category, although there are certain items that are important, ‘The essentials include: a clean, sharp pair of pruners for pruning and propagation; a mis. ter for inorepsing humidity; a watering can with a BASIC EQUIPMEN' long spout to reach through the foliage of the plant directly to the soil; a dibble for when the plant is, young, and a gardener’s trowel for later on; a mea- suring jug for mixing fertilizer or chemical treat. ments; and labels to identify each plant. Tools do not have to be bought, they can be improvized from the home. Cutlery is always useful, and can be attached to short canes with string or insulating tape for dealing with plants in a tall bottle garden. he main rule is to keep all your equipment clea to prevent cross-infection, "his is a range of equipment used in the care and maintenance of indoor plants, af various stages in their lives. The better the quality, the longer the tools will last. Sieve MINI TOOLS Rake For dealing with Trowels snail plan and Scissors sealed: dovwr tools such as thesp, which alla detailed work withou caubing damage tthe } Dibble Pruners Pliers Plastic labels Fork Trowel Thermombter,BUYING AND PROPAGATION EQUIPMENT Growing plants from seeds or cuttings needs only a little extra equipment and is very satisfying. Many plants can be grown from seed or cuttings using this equipment, although some will respond better if they are given a little extra warmth in the early stages in a propagation case with heating cables laid in. The propagator and plastic bag both serve to keep the humidity high around the plants, | reducing stress and speeding up rooting Sowing seed in cell-packs rather than trays takes up more room, but eliminates the need for transplanting. This means that there is no check in growth, producing a larger plant more quickly, and is particularly suitable for larger, easy-to-h: dle seeds. When seedlings need to be transplanted, | the widger can be used to ease them out of the soil by levering beneath the roots to cause as [ittle damage as possible. They can then be planted in the new soil mix using a dibble to make the hole and then firmed in. Plastic bag. { Tray Cell pack Pencil Rooting hormone om Plastic labels Small jar Propagator 81 SETTING UP STAKING EQUIPMENT Canes, ties, wire, raffia and string are all used to encourage a plant to grow in a specific direction. Staking plants is often part of their taining, to enconrage them to grow straight. However, it can be used on indoor plants to alter their natural growth habit — if, for example, you want to train a trailing or climbing plant to grow as a pillar or ball (see pages 44-5). When the plant is young and growing quickly, its stake will need replacing regularly to keep it grow- ing correctly. Bamboo canes are cheap and conve- nient at this stage, and can be used together with string, wire, metal rings, twine, or ties (covered in either paper or plastic) to hold the stems in place As the plant grows, the support can be changed to a more ornamental one. Keep a close watch on the ties, particularly metal ones that have no flexibility if they become too tight, they will bite into the stem and constrict it, Each time the stake is replaced, the ties should be changed Plant rings Ia Y Split canes. Bamboo canes Paper-covered ties Green garden string Plasti Plastic fabels Garden wireTe they roots. In expansion ay drastically nutrients en Types of fe} ‘The wo mai are classed aj iners are im: tend to be means they are mineral which mean: All plan ments for ti and leaves; pl (K) for fruit these in relat tilizer is sho} balanced gel quantities of ent levels of number of tf zine, magnel foliage plan um than higher need balance of al ‘emphasis on Plant fer} ents, plus a available in need from the soil by extending their ntainers, however, the room for root \d the amount of growing medium is duced, making it vital to replace regular basis. tilizer 2 types of fertilizer available for plants organic and inorganic. Organic fertil fe from a plant or animal base, and bsorved slowly by the plant, which re longer-lasting. Inorganic fertilizers based and tend to be faster-acting, that they are used up more quickly. is require three main chemical ele- lalthy growth: nitrogen (N) for shoots hosphorus (P) for roots; and potassium and flowers. The amount of each of ion to the others in a soil mix or fer- non the pack as the N:P:K ratio. & eral fertilizer should contain equal each, Different plants require differ- these elements, as well as needing a ace elements, including iron, copper, jum, and manganese. For example, have a lower requirement for potassi lant being grown for flowers, but a for nitrogen. Flowering plants need a three main elements, changing to an tassium as the buds develop. ilizers contain the three main nutri- Il range of trace elements. They are variety of forms, as either quick- MIXIN G LIQUID FERTILIZERS —) Measure the fertilizer {nto a clean watering. can, dilate with water (as directed on the pack), and stir to mix together Liguid fertilizers offer a ery quick and effective means of delivery, since the nutrients are ‘supplied along with the waier and ae distributed eventy. CARE AND MAINTENANCE Fertilizing Plants ‘THE ‘Wi, plants draw the nutrients and min- FORMS OF FERTILIZER Always follow the manufacturer's instructions, since some types are very concentrated. Liguid fertilizers are absorbed quickly, solid fertilizers slowly. = | == Slow-release Liquid fe Plant spikes granules ae | Slow-release Dissolvable erystals pellets RELEASE RATES FOR FERTILIZERS Fertilizer type Plant response } Slow release. 14-21 days Quick-aeting 7-1 days Liquid fertilizer 5-7 days Foliar fertilizer 3-4 days release or slow-release, depending on how quickly they dissolve in water. Liquid fertilizers (including soluble powder, granules, and crystals) have an) immediate effect because they are readily absorbed, and the plant should respord within a week. Foliar fertilizers are useful for plants that do not take nutrients easily through the roots, such as bromeliads, since they are absorbed directly by the: leaves, acting as a rapid “pick-me-up.” Pellets, spikes, and pills are placed in the soil in a solid form. ‘These dissolve slowly, taking longer to become available to the plant. High-potash (potas- sium) fertilizers are often referred to as “tomato fert mote the production of flowers and fruit on toma: toes. These are ideal for indoor plants that need @ boost to produce a good display of flowers, ers,” because they are used widely to pro: When to feed Fresh soil contains nutrients, but these will not last forever. How long they last depends on the type of 82plant, its growth rate, and whether the soil is loam- based or loamless. Loam itself contains nutrients, and holds additional ones better than pest, which tends to release them as water passes through. Start fertilizing plants after 6-8 weeks in a loamiless soil, and after 10-12 weeks in a loam-based one, and then feed regularly during the active growing and flowering season. Plants bought from the garden center will not have been fed for two weeks before leaving the nursery (to guard against root damage, caused by a build-up of fertilizer resulting from erratic watering), so you must fertilize these plants immediately. Most plants have a rest period during the winter months, when they do not need fertilizing, the exception being plants that flower at Christmas and ned feeding then, rather than in spring or summer, How to fertilize Liguid formulations come as a concentrate or as dry granules or powsler, to be diluted with, or dis- solved in, water. These are applied with a watering ‘can, or in the case of a liquid foliar feed, with a mis ter. Dry formulations are added to the soil when the plant is potted, or as @ top-dressing on the surface of an older plant. Pins and spikes are pushed into the soil using the end of a pencil — but do not to place them too close to the roots, since localized burning can occur as a result of the high concentration of fertilizer. The drawback of pins and spikes is that they cannot be “switched off” as the plant goes into its winter rest period, which may result in weak, elongated growth. Slow-release granules break down over three to six months, so can be adjusted to the needs of individual plants, EFFECTS OF FERTILIZER Effects of overfeedings 1 the leaves show signs Effects of underfoeding: 1 the plant has slow, Siekly looking growth of wilting and/or ‘there is hile resistance malformations to disease or pest attack there are brown spots 1 the floscers are poorly and/or scorched edges colored and small, or ‘on the leaves absent altogether © a white enerustation ‘6 the leaves are small, develops on the surface dull, and pale-colered, of the soil mix orare shed prematurely @ the growth i ong and | drawn in winter, and RTILIZING PLANTS Foliar fertilizers These are absorbed through the leaves, making theme ideal for bromeliads. They are also useful as a guick “pick-me- up" for ailing fuouseplants 9 Rertilizer pills These small, pill-shaped balls of fertilizer are designed to dissolve and. release nutrients over a period of time. They are inserted into the potting soil av regular imervals, 15 recommended tthe pack. Portilizer spikes These consist of a sirip impregnated swith fertilizer that is gradually released as the plant is watered. They are pushed into the scil at the edge of the pot, fas specified on the pack 83LANTS| feedix of wal depends bor ditions. For ture withia young see«i draw. Anda ment, such much lone kept in an a ‘The wail transport. chi ing nutrient starches do turgid (firm, own weight) chemical re: as photosy cal reaction| resulting in) Nutrients ai plant, causir is lost throu, Each pl point and sti permanen’ the leaves from plan: needed on a tain adequath plant’s indiv Such pla watering i CARE AND MAINTENANCE Watering Plants JCAN TOLERATE deficiencies in light and Ig for a while, but if you deprive them xr they will die. How long this takes on the plant and on the growing con- txample, a succulent that stores mois- is tissue will last much longer than a 1g, which has no reserves on which to [plant that is kept in a humid environ- las @ steamy bathroom, will survive between waterings than one that is id, centrally heated living room. pr taken up by the plant is used to micals around within the cells, mov. up from the roots, and sugars and 'n from the leaves. It keeps the plant to the touch and able t> support its the cells full and rigid, and allows the ctions that keep the plant alive, such nesis. Without adequate water, chemi- stop and the cells start to deflate, a flaccid (pale and floppy) plant. id sugars no longer pass through the ig the structure to collapse as moisture fh transpiration and not replaced int can tolerate wilting to a certain 1 make a full recovery, although some ll-death may show as brown ends to this permanent wilting point varies plant, as does the amount of water laily basis. The only sure way to main- levels of water is to get to know your dual needs (see page 86) WATERING HINTS Ss as rosette-forming bromeliads need to their central cup, rather than the pot, | because they absorb moisture through their leaves as well a should be spilled on trapped by where it plants, suc with rai in areas Ww! a little their roots, Plants with hairy leaves watered from below, because water the surface of the leaves can become the hairs, resulting in scorch marks magnified by the light. Acid-loving 1 as azaleas, benefit from being watered ater (which is generally soft), especially ere tap water is “hard.” For most plants, ter done frequently is far better than periodic a fowning followed by drought. Watering from above Fill the pot to the brim and let the water soak through, adding more for larger containers to make sure that the soil is wee. Watering from below Water indicator Water droplets spilled on This changes color as the soil hairy leaves cause scorch, so dries out, indicating when water from below, ‘more water 1s needed. i i} being watered Make sure that the rosette of the bromeliad ‘always consains a reservorr of water to be absorbed rough wes 84WATERIN G PLANTS CONTINGENCY WATERING Plants do not need to suffer while you are away from home, There are various ways of ensuring that they a During a short vacation, plants can survive without special treatment, as long as they are thoroughly watered beforehand and moved to a cool position. For a longer period, however, it will be necessary to make contingency plans. There are a number of ways in which plants can still be watered, even during a vacation period, when no one is available to care for them. Wicks and capillary matting both work by allowing plants, to absorb as much water as they need from a reser- voir. However, these methods will not work if the matting dries out and the capillary column is bro- ken. Bach presoaked wick is placed into a pot by pushing it through the base or by removing the plant from the pot, placing the wick at the side and replacing the plant ~ the more growing medium. Wick watering kit Waser is taken into the pot by ‘a wick, which extends into a plastic bag fied with water ing plastic bag. ‘Transpired water condenses on the sides of the bag, tobe taken up by the roots (do not tue for longer than one week) Capillary matting Lay the matting in the sink and up ‘onto the worktop. U necessary, protect your surface frst with plastic) Place pats on dhe matting to ensure good contact with the soit re well-watered in your absence. the wick is in contact with, the better. Presoaked capillary matting can cope with a greater number of plants. This is placed partially into a plugged sink containing 4-6 in. (10~15 em) water, and par tially on the draining-board. The pots are then placed directly onto the matting, which will remain moist as long as there is water in the sink, Note that this system relies on contact between the soil mix and the matting, and that it will not work if the pots have a layer of crockery shards in the bottom (see page 87). A less controlled method of keeping plants moist is by grouping them together ona tray of moist pebbles. The roots stay moist as Jong as the water level in the tray does not drop too far. However, itis important that the level is not too high initially, or the roots may rot. Moking your own wick watering kit Cuca strip of capillary matting long enough to reach from the pou 4 reservoir filled with water. Tn ho weather, cover the wick with a smal piece of plastic t prevent it drying out through evaporation.) Water-retaining crystals These any erystals absorb ‘many times their oun weight of water, hold t, and release it back fo the plants on demand. Each tine you water the soil, they absorb more water, maintaining the moisture levels and compensating, for erratic watering 85Achievi ‘There are} v decide when these are jr tion, By the to save lighter it is, to test dryni the wetter t How much Different pl in order t9 (see pages|t “moist,” ‘sl prevent the how muck plant shorou the soil cor never actual to dry out apply water| allow the to rewatering. slightly dry, the top half Underwater leaves; flowel of growth; f srious indicators to help the beginner to apply more water (see page 84), but substitutes for practice and observa ime the plant wilts, it may be too late check it regularly. Lift up the pot (the ‘he drier the potting soil), feel the soil is. For clay pots, look at the outside — soil, the darker the pot. |water to apply nits need different levels of watering thrive. In the Indoor Plant Directory }0-185) che terms “thoroughly moist,” lghtly dry.” or “just moist enough to loil drying out” are used to indicate fater each plant needs. ‘To keep the ly moist, apply enough water to keep ypletely moist all the time, though ly wet. Do not allow even the surface Check every day. To keep it moist, to moisten the soil completely, but Yer1 in, (1-2 em) to dry out before Check every 2-3 days. To keop it ‘moisten the soil completely, but allow £ the soil to dry out before rewatering, 'g symptoms include: wilted, limp s that fade and fall quickly; a slow rate ling lower leaves; and leaves showing brown edges: the saucer If a plant has been underwatered, fill jth water repeatedly, until no more is being abséred, and then pour away the excess. Never allow lyour plants to stand in water for long a wilted plant Plunge the pot in a bucket of water (containing a drop of disheeshing detergent to speed up penetration of the soul particularly sf it peat-based). Keep it submerged until bubbles stop rising, then leave to drain CARE AND MAINTENANCE WATERING QUANTITIES 1g the correct watering levels is often a matter of trial and error, because every plant is different, and each will change throughout tts life, and at different times of the year. QUICK-REFERENCE WATERING GUIDE Water your plant more frequently if it fis growing quickly (or example, when itis young, orf it has just | come out ofthe rest petiod) # is coming up 1, or isin, flower has filled is current container and isin need of repoting ¢ isin a hot or ay sxmosphere Check once a week. The plant might only need td be Kept moist enough to prevent the soil drying ou during the rest period, Check once a week and give only enough water to keep the potting soil barely moist. Once growth starts again in spring, increas the amount immediately. WATERING PROBLEMS Experience is the key to successful watering but in the meantime, recognizing and dealing with problems quickly will help ensure a good recovery. periods of time, since you will deprive the roots o: air and, eventually, kill them. Overwatering symptoms include: soft or rotter, patches on leaves; flowers turning moldy, old and young leaves being shed together; leaves curling, wilting, and turning yellow; leaves with brown tips and the plant having a moldy smell. Water your plant less Frequently if it is resting — usually, although not always, | during the winter months ‘© scores moisture within its leaves and/or stems 1 has a wany covering on its leaves, whieh reduces moisture 1oss ‘is grown in coal or humid conditions | ‘# has recently been repotted | Drain overwatered plant Overwatering does not compensate for underwater: ing, and causes additional problems. Slant the pot at ant langle against the rim of a saucer until the excess water stops running outTHE GROWING MEDIUM The Growing Medium LANTS HAVE certain requirements of the P medium in which they are growing, whether is indoors or out. They need a firm anchor- age for their roots, the correct pH level, and a read. ily accessible supply of air, water, and nutrients in an environment free from pests and diseases. In the case of a medium for indoor use, this means that the potting soil has to be sterile, pH neutral (unless itis for acid-loving plants), firrn enough to support, the plant, but lightweight enough to hold air and able to supply the roots with water and nutrients, without letting the plant become waterlogged. ‘There are two main choices of soil mix: loam- based (which contains soil) and loamless (based on peat or a peat-substitute). Loam-based soils hold nutrients and moisture better tian loamless ones, and are more stable, but they are heavier, and more suitable for older plants that are likely to be in their pots for some time, or floor-standing specimens that need the extra weight to prevent them being knocked over. Loamless soils are light, clean, and easy to handle, but are inclined to dry out (and dif. ficult to re-wet), and nutrients wash through them fairly quickly. Soil additions In order to tailor the soil mix to the plant, there are various substances that can be added to the basic ingredients, including perlite, vermiculite, sand, and grit, all of whici serve to allow more air into the soil and speed up drainage. Other ingredients can be used with the soil mix to cater for certain plants, Crockery shards (stones or pieces of broken clay pot) can be laid in the bot- tom of the empty container before planting to help speed up drainage if the plant will not tolerate wet soil for any length of time. Charcoal is often used in bottle gardens and terraria to absorb waste and keep the soil fresh. Sphagnum moss is another use- ful addition, which can be incorporated into the soil mix or placed over the surface of the soil to retain moisture ‘TYPES OF GROWING MEDIUM Withous the right mediure a plant wil struggle to grew well. The consistency, pH, and content of the soil all play ‘part in the plants overall health, See the to» tine, below, for growing mediuins, the middle line for drainage additions, ad the bottom line for hydrocultare medi. @ * Pebbles/Grit Se % Crockery shards Get Dry crystals: Coarse sand Silver sand Vermiculite Charcoal Clay granules Hydroleca| CARE AND MAINTENANCE Planting and Potting N THE WILD, a plant's roots can grow unrestriet I: into |new soil in their search for food and water. In a container, however, the limited room for expansion means that instead of stretch- ing out fredly, the roots are forced to circle around inside the [pot. Unless more space is provided, Houseplants are usually bought in containers and so the terms “planting” and “planting-up” apply to 2 plants grown from seed (see page only 101) and byilbs, corms, and tubers (see opposite). Young, actifely growing plants should be moved into larger pots on a regular basis to make sure that they have ehough room to grow, without suffering a check aj a result of their roots becoming cramped. This process is known as “potting on.” How often [iis is done will depend on the plant itself, with uick-growing specimens in ideal con. ditions requiring potting on more often than slow. er growing, pnes. ‘The newly|bought plant When a plnt is first purchased, the chances are that it is already becoming pot-bound (see page 91), becavisd most plants ~ especially foliage ones — are sold in the smallest practicable pot in order to make the plant look larger and, therefore, better value. The dasiest way to tell if this is the case is to base of the pot for protruding roots — examine th the more tllere are, the more pot-bound the plant Place thelold pot inside the new fone so thgre i at least a 2 in. b around Layer crock: 2 1 5 em) gap ery and soil inside the new pot final level of The old soil should sit below the Remove the plant from the old pot and place in the new container in terms of a larger pot, this results in a “pot; bound” plant, with slow growth and a poor show af, flowers. Most plants need to be moved into a new. slightly larger pot with fresh potting soil once @ year, normally in spring as the new growth for the season starts. PLANTING UP AND POTTING ON wing” indicates that a dry bulb or corm is being put into a new soil mix. “Potting on” refers to the moving of a plant from a smaller pot into a larger one. is likely to be. If there are lots of protruding roots, it should be potted on into a larger pot immediate- ly to keep it actively growing. ‘leasing out a few of the main roots when planting will help the plant establish in its new pot and start to grow. Carefully trimming off a few of the main roots at this stage will slow down the growth of the plant if it is like. ly to grow too quickly for its surroundings. How to pot on Check that the new container has drainage holes in the base to prevent waterlogging, and that it is a east 2 in, (5 cm) larger in diameter than the old one. If the plant dislikes excess moisture around the roots, first cover the base of the pot with pieces of broken crockery, then add a layer of potting soil. Remove the plant from its existing pot and place it inside to gauge the level, adding more potting soil underneath if necessary, then fill up around the sides, firming it gently with your fingertips. Fill the pot to I in. (2.5 em) below the brim, then watey it to settle the soil. If the soil level sinks back, add more potting soil Fill around the sides of the root ball with fresh soil. Water to set le it, adding extra potting soil 10 Brings the level back up if it sinks. 3 the new one, 88PLANTING AND POTTING PLANTING BULBS, CORMS, AND TUBERS There is something wonderful about the way an uninspiring dry lump can burst into a mass of lush greenery and fragrant flowers just by planting tt Bulbs, corms, and tubers vary in size from delicate fresias to large hyacinths, and as a general rule, should be covered in three times their depth of soil when planted. However, as there are exceptions, ¥ 8 © Bulbs, corms, tubers Each is a food-filled plant waiting 10 grou Planting corms Space them evenly around the pot and cover with soil always refer to instructions on the pack. Most bulbs prefer free-draining soil, so incorporate a layer of pebbles in the base of the pot, and include a good proportion of grit or coarse sand. Planting tubers Shoot buds or old roots shove which way up to plant Plonting bulbs A bulb should be planted twith its tip facing ap REPOTTING This term is used when a plant is put back into the same container with fresh potting soil, rather than being moved to a new one. Every plant benefits from an annual supply of fresh potting soil, but this doesn't mean changing the container ~ especially if the plant is already in as large a container as you can accommodate. Likewise, as a plant ages and its rate ef growth slows down, it may only be necessary to move it, into a larger pot in alternate years rather than every year. The way to refresh the soil if the con tainer is not being changed js to replace some or all of the soil. Remove the root ball from the pot and very gently wash some of the old soil away from the roots, without damaging them in any way. Return it to the same container and fill around the roots with a new soil mix, containing a slow-release fertilizer, which will last until the plant needs repotting again WHEN TO POT, REPOT, OR POT ON ‘he root hull is congested (roots show through the base of the pot or are | visible on the surface of the sei), bes their own) means that there are too many roots ot and to litle sil) You will need to repot or pot ov your plant if; in the pot due to offsets (these can ated and propagated on growing medium is ehay (for example, to hydrocultute) rowded _Pot-to-root ball ratio ‘The container should be at least 1 in. 25 em) larger all around the root ball toallow roomfora year’s growth If ‘there is not enough room, pot on the plant Gee # che rate of growth has slowed down ‘© the top growe has become lopsided (his can be coreocted by centralizing the plant in a larger pot) ‘© an attack of pests or disease is damaging the roots (make sure that you wash them with water or Sungicide before replanting them in Fresh soil) «© you repot annually every spring 89 opposite). GeraniumPLANTING A HANGING BASKET Although dften thought of as an outdoor feature, there is no reason why a hanging basket cannot be used indoors. It is comm throughout them indcor a basket as i from the pr t. In a cons the roof or jon to see hanging baskets outdoors ls. As many plants will grow as well in a pot, there is no reason for this, apart cticalities of positioning and watering prvatory, the basket can be hung from wall bracket, as long as the increased zen into account. Methods of watering plants have been devised by manufac- the availability of self-watering bas. ler-retaining gels weight is ral out-of-reachy turers, with] kets and wat Choosing the plants Exactly the to an outdo center, color| ame rules apply to an indoor basket as r one, in that it needs height in the in the middle, and something to trail s. The difference here is that your cho- sen plants rpust all have similar requirements in terms of temperature, light, and humidity over the siti Maintaining the basket ‘The soil mix in the basket can be enhanced by the addition of| water-retaining gel, to reduce th frequency of watering, and slow-release fertilizer to make shre that the plants are well-fed Line the basket using sphagniiny moss or a fiber liner to heep the ‘soil in place CD Put ina taye potting soil and position the tallest plant in the center Add the other plants, filling in with soil around each to hold them firm. Water to settle 90 fhe year, but much less common to find «; Hanging basket after planting-up Maintenance then only becomes a matter of check. ing the basket on a regular basis to add water, turn ing the basket if the light is lopsided, and picking off any fading flowers. It may be desirable to change the flowering plants once they have faded and replace them with fresh ones. Rather than dismantling the whole basket, which causes disturbance to foliage plants, flowering plants can be left in their individual pots and plunged into the soil. They will be able to take up moisture through the holes in the hase of the pots, although they will need fertilizing separately, ‘As they fade, the pots can then be lifted out and ‘new ones inserted, causing little or no disturbance to the rest af the display. WATERING HANGING BASKETS | There are various ways to water a hanging basket that is awksvard to reach # Garden hose watering Reaching high baskets is ‘made easier by taping a aibno cane to the hose to make is rigid. Self watering A reservoir of water in the base of this basket is refilled using the pipe.PLANTING AND POTTING PROBLEMS WITH MATURE PLANTS All plants have a “root to shoot” ratio; both elements must be balanced in order for one to support the other: Mature plants grow more slowly than young ones, but they will still outgrow their pots. As plants age and their root systems expand to fill their pots, the soil is literally squeezed out of the base, leaving prog nutrients. Fhis may even be the case when a plant is first purchased, with the root ball being so con- gested that roots are protruding through the base of the pot. In this case, removing the pot in the con ventional way (see page 88) may damage the roots because they are dragged back through the holes in the base, Instead, it is better sacrifice the pot by cutting it away using strong scissors or pruners, or reals it off in the case of clay. Any long roots will 4 Ble oats of hs jasmine have emerged through the holes in the base of the pot. Pulling them back through would cause damage, leaving open wounds that are suscepuible to rot and attack by disease. sssively less to provide water and OC Morder to release the roots without damage, the pot is carefully cut away using pruners. (The cut pot can be used, with the base removed, as a wrap-around slug guard outside in the garden.) soon re-establish once the plant has more room to grow in its new container, With established plants, the growth rate of the roots is directly related to the rate of the top growth. ‘This is called the “root to shoot” ratio. Trimming back the main roots will control the top when the plant has reached the desired size. This is useful when you do not have the space to accom. modate a new, larger pot TOP-DRESSING A MATURE PLANT Removing a plant from its pot, however briefly, can cause it stress. Mature plants find this nore difficult to cope with than young ones. Asan alternative to repotting a mature plant on a regular basis, which causes disturbance, you can rejuvenate it by top-dressing it instead. Outdoors, this involves applying a fertilizer around the base of a plant, but indoors it means adding new potting soil as well, at least in the upper part of the pot. Gently scrape away the upper Lin. (25 ern) of soil, using a small rake or fork, and discard. 1 Replace it with fresh soi, com taining a slow-release fertilizer Water to settle it in plac. The plant can then stay in place for up to two years before it needs repotting completely. The old soil is, gently scraped away with a small rake or fork and discarded, to be replaced by the same amount of fresh soil mix, usually one that contains a slow- release fertilizer: Crassula ovata afier top-dressingCARE AND MAINTENANCE REMOVING A PLANT FROM A SMALL POT snever you remove a plant from its container, the most important consideration is to avoid damaging the roots, since open wounds are potential sites for attack by disease. “To make the operation smoother, the plant should be watered thoroughly at least an hour before you atiempt to yemove the pot. This will hold the soil mix together and allow the root ball to be slipped from the old pot easily. Place one hand over the sur- face of the sbil, with your fingers spread to straddle Place a hafad on the sel to support it, inver: the pot, and knock it gen- Udy against a ooden block to loosen the root bat! 10 is new container ‘The root ball should slip easily from the pot without damage to the roots, and can now be transferred the stem, invert the pot, and knock the rim gently against the edge of a table or a wooden block. The pot should lift off the root ball, which is then ready to transfer to a new pot. To help the plant establish quickly in its new pot, tease out some of the roots around the edge of the root ball. Codiaeum variegatuin pictum after potting on Cacti are we REMOVING A THORNY PLANT FROM A POT This is a good way of handling prickly plants, such as cacti, but it would work equally well for plants with irritant sap. nderful plants, easy to care for, with Fold a piece of news the most sptctacular flowers, but they are among. paper several times. It the most awkward to handle. Getting spines in the should be long enough to : ey pass around the plant and skin can capse discomfort for weeks, The easiest peeved rads Insert sway to avoid this is to grasp the plant with a piece thecontaincn, krack gently of folded nqwspaper or cloth while you invert the to loosen the root ball, then pot to looser} the root ball. (Watering the plant an remove the old pot. hour befor e femeving the pot will enable the plant to slip out fore easily.) The newspaper can be left wrapped ar new conta the soil is fflled in and firmed around the sides. Only when the whole operation is complete can the newspaper He removed and discarded. Other plabits that, can cause skin irritations, such as oleander dnd primula, can be treated in the same way until qhey become too large, when gloves become the bnly viable alternative. lund the plant as you transfer it to its 1, and then used to hold it in place as sing the newspaper as a handle, gently lift the plant and move it to its new pot. Do not remove the paper until after you have filled and firmed the soit ‘around the root ball. 92CARE OF ONTAINERS Care of Containers ONTAINERS SHOULD last for many years, pro- Cr they are well cared for and not dam. aged in any way. If they have been used before, it is important to clean them thoroughly to prevent the spread of disease (see right). Preparing and maintaining containers New clay pots should be soaked in water for at least an hour before use, so that they do nat draw mois- ture away from the soil. However, as they age, they gain an attractive outer coating of green moss, which blends the pots into the greenery around them. It is not necessary to remove this when the pot is cleaned, but it is important to clean the inside. Metal containers should be lined with plastic to pre vent their minerals contaminating the growing medium. Wooden containers can also be lined with plastic to stop the wood rotting. In each case, holes need to be made in the base to allow drainage. Usea dry, stiff brish to get rid of loose Soil and old roots Q ser te pot soapy water to make sure that it is thoroughly clean. CARE OF HEAVY CONTAINERS If you have the space, a large container adds impact and interest, but it presenis its own set of problems if it needs to be moved. Although few indoor plants should have a problem with low temperatures during the winter, those in an unheated conservatory or sunroom, or on a porch, may feel the cold. The result of exposure to low temperatures varies according to how cold the plant becomes, and for how long, but at its extreme, cold kills the plant, A small electric space heater is one way of keeping the temperature above freezing if the plants cannot be brought indoors. Alternatively, plastic bubble wrap or burlap can be tied around both the plant and its container as temporary protection during very low temperatures, but it will need to be removed as soon as feasible, or the plant will suffer from lack of light and air. Repositioning a large container presents its own set of problems because once it is planted and watered, it can weigh a great deal. Even a medium-size container can weigh up to 20 Ib, (9 kg) when moistened, and this amount of weight can cause injury if not handled properly. The easiest way to move a heavy pot is to maneu- ver it onto a board and then use metal pipes as rollers underneath (see right). Lighter pots can be moved by dragging them on a piece of burlap. a Heavy containers can be moved using pieces of metal pipe as rollers under-a board. Move the board by taking the front roller to the back. Repeat this action 93has I ting nutrients ji less frequer there is less chosen plai able to ada; partial sha‘ algae will bj Many cont from the si double pots an innier ont Supporting mediums Many inert ing medi x granules fs expanded that are pre firm casing Gel. works retaining ge hanging bal soil. Dry er and liquid ‘can be co'0i available as fertilizer Care of bons The roots, because thi not absorbe be drained in water, si The young successful c Fertilizing, Each medit ticularly sf guided by ‘Phe granules soak up moisture and release it bak to the plant as needed. VoLVES growing a plant without por Isoil, using an inert substance as the Rs of support, and supplying all the the water. The plant needs watering ly (often only every 2-3 months), and risk of overwatering or drying out. The It must be suited to moist conditions. to a new way of life, and tolerant of lc. since if the container is clear glass, a problem if it is placed in direct sun. ‘ners are suitable for hydroculture, ple hyacinth glass to more complex Iwhere the outer pot is the reservoir for containing the plant and aggregate. substances can be used as the support , including Hydroleca, gel, and clay 1c page 87). Hydroleca is a lightweight, lay aggregate, available as small pellets yiuced with @ honeycomb center and a which hoth holds and conduets water. n the same principle as the water Is available for outdoor containers and kets, but here they are used without stals, which need to be soaked in water lant food for several hours before use, d for instant effect. Clay granules are whole kit, with a water indicator and the plant should never sit in water, will cause them to rot. All excess water by the medium after watering should fF. For best results, use a cutting rooted ce it will already have succulent roots. the plant, the higher the chance of version, Im has its own fertilizing regime, par- lit has been purchased as a kit, so be ¢ advice on the pack. In general, fer tilizer 3s applied when the water is refilled. However, iff waterings, t foliar feed s the plant looks pale or yellow between .e nutrient may not be sufficient, and a jould be applied once a week. 94 CARE AND MAINTENANCE | Hydroculture GEL HYDROCULTURE This technique involves growing plants in water. retaining crystals, rather than in soil. Measure dry erystals into a waterproof container and start adding the water, according to the insyructions on the pack As the gel begins to welt, add more water Keep applying more ‘water over several hours, leaving the gel 10 absorb as much as it can Drain away any excess water. The gel is now ready to use BH lear ge i require, ttcan be used immedi- aely as itis. For colored gel, add food ‘coloring to vary the shade or match the plant Choose a cutting that has been rooted in water, since it will already hhave succulent roots to cope with the moist regime. (This Tradescantin fluminensis should | establish quickly.) Plant, gel, and | container can all be chosen to complement their room setting, creating an unuswal and low-maintenance focal point. Here, a wiriegated tradescantia is planted in| mauve gelFORCING Forcing HIE TECHNIQUE of bringing plants into flower | outside their natural season is known as forcing. It is routinely practiced by grow: to produce plants in flower over a longer period, and involves manipulating the plants’ days, d by the amount of light in hours (day length) rather than by its intensity, so if you use black plastic to simulate nighttime and electric light to simulate day, the plants can be fooled into triggering the formation of buds. Flowering is induc Bulbs Bulbs that naturally flower in the spring, sue as hyacinths, can be brought into flower during the winter by planting them in the fall and keeping them cool and dark (and che soil moist) for 6-10 When the shoots are 1-2 in. (25-5 cm) high, the bulbs can be brought indoors into a cool, well-lit spot; the leaves will extend and turn dark er green, and the flower buds appear. They can then be moved to a warmer, brightly lit place to flower. Choose bulbs specified for indoor use, and keep the soil moist throughout. As the flowers die down, it is important to feed and water the plants in order to replenish the food within the bulb ready for next year. After the fear of frost has passed, they can be planted outdoors to be enjoyed for years to come. Or you can lift them and store tiem over the summer in a cool, dry, dark place. Flowering plants Plants that flower indoors fall into two categories: those which flower annually without help, and { Blastprepared hyacinths with C their *noses” oul of the soil Place ia a cool, dark situation for 6-10 weeks until the shoot reaches 1-2 in, 25-5 em). Bring into a cool indoor room until the buds show color, then move to a warm, well-lic position Moss keeps the soil moist and main: tains humidity levels those which are discarded after flowering. OF the later, some, such as poinsettias and azaleas coaxed to flower again. Poinsettias can be brought, ack into color, but will be taller than before, because commercial growers use growth regulators to produce a compact, bushy plant. After the bracts and leaves fall, cut the stems down to 4 in. (10 em) stumps Keep the plant almost dry until early sum’ mer, then repot (in the same size pot), and increase watering and feeding, selecting 4~§ strong stems. In fall, cover nightly with black plastic for 14 hours for 8 weeks, then treat normally to produce bracts for winter, If you have the time, space, and patience to per severe with them, there are many plants that can be brought back into flower a second time. ‘They may not be as spectacular second time around, but this is much more satisfying than discarding them. PLANTS FOR FORCING Bulbs Narcissus, Ayacinth # Flowering plants Azaleas and p crocus, ins, tulip, can be brought back int amaryllis ily, and ower by manipulating — freesia ean all be day longth and tempera brought into flower ture, Other flowering outside their natural plants can be brought season by controlling forward or held back their growing conditions when they have set buds (see below) by moving them to warmer or cooler position Hyacinth after forcing 95CARE AND ENE] ARE MANY reasons to consider propaga: | tion fin one of its forms: old and jidfd; if someone has asked for a cutting: or simply fo ducing a th the challenge and satisfaction of pro- iving new plan to produce 4 new plant from another are asexually (vegetative propagation) or sexually (seed). Seed is, plentiful, bt the results are variable, and may dif. fer quite cohsiderably from the parent plant. Vege tative propagation takes up more room and may be slightly slofer, but it gives consistently similar results to the parent, Vegetative propagation ‘This is by far the most common means of propaga: tion for indbor plants, and it includes propagation by cuttings (stem, leaf, and root), division, layering, if a plant has ouigtown its allotted space; if it is looking ‘The two basic ways MAINTENANCE Propagation piece is severed, its supply of moisture from the parent's roots is cut off, so an adequate level of moisture must be maintained while the cutting produces its own roats to replace the loss. Some plants produce roots so easily that the cutting calt simply be placed in a container of water. Others need the stimulus of a rooting hormone in either liquid or powder form to produce roots. Spring anid summer are the best times to take cuttings, because the plant is actively growing and light levels are high. Avoid taking cuttings when the plant is in flower, because flowering shoots will not root su¢- cessfully, wasting soil, time, and the cutting itself. CUTTINGS FOR PROPAGATION 25, leaves, stems, and shoots ean all be used to produce new plants, offsets, plantlets, and air-layering. Each technique relies on using part of the parent plant to produce the new ong, without necessarily detaching it first. The offsprichg is genetically identical to the parent, and its growth pattern should also be identical Cuttings Taking a jukting means removing part of the par ent plant in order to grow a new one. After the LEAF PETIO Leaf cuttings, Stem cutting (Srreptacarpiis) (Pelargonium) LE CUTTINGS This technique involves taking a whole leaf ~ plus its stalk — from the parent in order to Plants such] as peperomia and saintpaulia can be propagated by taking a whole leaf and its stalk (petiole). Select an undamaged, fully opened leaf, remove it from the plant, and trim the petiole about Using a clean krife, remove the petiole at the base, then trim below the leaf 1 ‘ndpautia produce a new plant. 1 in. (2.5 cm) below the leaf. Insert it into moist pot ting soil at an angle to shed water from the leaf and produce a straighter plantlet. Support a plastic cov ering with canes so it does not touch the leaf. OD Insert the cut edge at ‘an angle into moist free-draining soil, and cover with plastic 3 New plants wilt form at the base of the petiole. Separate and pot into fresh soil mis, 96PROPAG ATION WHOLE LEAF CUTTINGS This technique involves using whole leaves taken from the parent to produce new plants Whole leaves of succulents, such as crassula, echeveria, and sedum, can be used to form new plants. Take a large, healthy, mature leaf, and le it to dry for 24 hours befo: e planting, This reduces moisture loss caused by excessive “bleeding.” Push, the cut end of the leaf into the moist soil. Do not ‘Remove a healthy, mature leaf with a clean, sharp knife and make small cuts across the veins on the underside. Begonia rex the pot with plastic, since succulents are liable to rot. Begonia rex can be propagated by tak- ing a whole leaf and making slits through each of pegged down to ensure it remains in close contact with the the main veins. The leaf is weighed soil (see below) and covered with plastic. Lay the leaf face-up ‘on moist soil and hold down with sme hoops of wire. Cover with plastic. Vein cuts New plants should form at each of the small tein cuts These can later be separat- ed and potied up. PART-LEAF CUTTINGS This technique involves cutting a whole sections. It is a simple and leaf in half or into several horizontal effective way to produce a number of new plants. The leaves of sansevieria can be cut into horizontal sections about 2 in. (5 em) deep. Keep them the same way up that they were growing, and insert, them into moist soil to one-third of their depth. Bwo or three plantlets should form from each sec- tion Streptocarpus leaves can be cut in half length: ways along the midrib (see right) or cut into \V.shaped sections horizontally (see opposite). New plantlets should form along the cut surfaces, Streptocarnus 97 Use a clean, sharp knife (0 remove a healthy, mature leaf from the parent plant. Cui along the length of the central vein (midrib). Lay the leaf down lengthwise, pressing the cut edge lighaly into the moist sol New plants should form along the cut edge. These can be potted up individuallyPeiergonitr taking cut Stem Some plait cutting is n sible to tal stem into si above a lea! a leaf node| Tip Remove the tip and at ‘Trim the remove the cutting. Dig hormone a into a pot CARE AND MAINTENANCE STEM CUTTINGS | Young plants can produce roots at every leaf node along their stem, although ‘The formation of roots is triggered when the hor- mones in a cutting respond to stress. ‘These hormones are concentrated in the growing tip, but can also be found in each leaf node. ‘The younger the plant, the greater the chance that almost any part of the stem will root if there is a leaf node present. before jings root so well that a growing tip on the 1 necessary. From a long shoot it is pos- the tip cutting, then cut the rest of the ilar lengths, making each top cut just node, and each bottom cut just below end of a shoot, including the growing least 3-4 in, (7-10 cm) of the stem. end under a leaf-joint (node), and leaves from the lower third of the the very end of the cutting in rooting {é tap off the surplus. Insert the cutting of moist soil by pushing it in to ensure tHat there is a good contact between the stem and Uhh Rooting form, is d natural hi Not all pl tend (0 001 The vent it fn amount ii remainde| Never «i soil. lormone, available in powder or liquid signed to mimic the action of the plant's rmones and boost the rooting process. nts need it — for example, geraniums if ivis applied. ;paration should be kept clean to pre~ 1m deteriorating, so only pour a small to @ shallow container, and discard the once the cuttings have been prepared. the cutting directly into the pot. The not all plants retain the ability to do this easily as they mature. Heel | Short side-shoots of 3-4 in. (710 om), taken as tip cuttings, can be pulled [rom the stem complett with a “heel” of bark attached. This strip should be trimmed down to a short point with a sharp knife, to prevent it rotting Cane Plants such as cordyline, dieffenbachia, dracaena, and yucca, which form strong, woody stems, can be propagated by cutting one of their bare stems inti several pieces, each 2-3 in, (5-7 em) long. The pieces are laid horizontally onto the soil or inserted vertically into it. Vf they are vertical, they must be placed the same way up as they were growing on the parent plant, Select a healthy, none flowering shoot and remove the top 3 in. (om), including the growing point, with a sharp knife Trim below a leaf node and remove the leaves from the lower third of the cutting: Insert into fresh soul. ALTERNATIVE ROOTING METHODS, bite some plants root easily, others need help in the form of rooting preparations designed to enkance the natural hormones that promote root formation. powder is quite powerful, and is needed only on the cut surface, so make sure you dip only the very end of the cutting into the pow- der and tap off any surplus. Rooting in water Many plants, especially those wit Peeshy stems, root easily in water: ‘They can he transferred 10.4 soil mix 5300 as the roots appear. Crassula ovata 98PROPAG LAYERING This technique is low-risk, since it is the only one separating, the new plant from its parent until rooting is complete. The advantage of layering is its lack of risk to either the parent plant or its offspring. The young plant, or the stem to be layered, is bent down and brought into contact with a pot of soil without detaching it from its parent. It is held in position with a U-shaped wire hoop, and remains there until it has formed roots to support itself; the con- necting stem can then be severed. If rooting is unsuccessful, the stem is not cut, and the whole process can begin again. Indoor plants, such as hedera and philodendron, which have aerial roots at leaf joints on the stems, can be propagated in this way: Self-propagating plants Plants such as chlorophytum and tolmiea produce small replicas of themselves, complete with tiny roots, on long stems or mature leaves as they grow. These are ready to start growing as soon as they come into contact with the growing medium. The plantlets can either be rooted while they are still attached to the parent plant or they can be separated, potted up, and grown on in their own right with a minimum of fuss as they establish. In fact, the only difficulty may be with the sheer quantity of the offspring produced — OFFS “These small plants either grow from the main stem Itself, on secondary stems (stolons) or they arise base- to-base, such as bulblets. No offset should be severed from the parent plant until it is large enough to survive on its own, and although this is not always easy to judge, it can generally be taken once it resembles the par- ent plant in shape and characteristics. It may even develop roots of its own before it is severed, which makes success even more likely. Use a sharp, clean knife to cut the offset from as close to the parent as possible, and place it into a Aloe variegava with several offiets 99 ATION that does not involve although there is no need to remove them from the parent plant, where they can remain indefi- nitely. If the plantlet already has some roots of its own, it can either be detached from the parent plant imme- diately and rooted in water (see opposite), Thlorophyzum comosum uth plantlets or planted immediately in small pots of soil mix. The roots should take only a few days to begin supporting the plant. Layering a plantlet Bend the young plantlet down to reach a pot of soil. Hold it in place with wire hoop until roots form to support it, at which time the connecting stem can be cut ETS Offsets are small plants that develop at the base of mature plants, such as bromeliads, cacti, and succulents pot of moist potting soil. Larger offsets may be unsteady, and eed supporting with short canes, until the roots provide firm anchorage. mmediately after Separate those lenge enough to survive on their own and repot or dis. card the others. Repot the parent in fresh soil In 1 flowering, remove the plant from the pot and wash the roots gently to ‘expose the young plantsCARE AND MAINTENANCE BULBLETS Such plants as lily and amaryllis can produce miniature bulbs on the stem, offsets from the base, or extra scales that can be separated from the parent. Remove and discard any damaged scales _from the outside of the ‘mature bulb. Take healthy ones by breaking cleanly as near 10 the base as pos sible, Up to 80 percent of the scales can be taken ani the bulb wilt still flower: reach maturity much more quickly lut lack the variation, Those that arise in the leaf 4xils on the stem are known as bulbils those that drise at the base, or are cultivated by Q Pace i 4 plastic bag Tiny white bulblets Scales can be cut Pot severat bulblets of moist soil, fold to with delicate roots Tengthwise to separate together for the first close, and keep warm and will form at the base of bulblets, leaving each a year: The leaves wil! dark for 8-14 weeks each scale piece of scale as food. tnatially resemble grass. DIVISION Many clump forming plants can be increased in number by dividing the existing large clump into smaller ones ‘This technique is suitable for any Plants with a thizo: houseplant that forms a clump as tem, such as orchids, may nieed to be severed with it matures, such as cacti, orchids, a knife, so make s ferns, chamaedorea, maranta, the cut is made in as few movements as possible. saintpaulia, and sansevieria, It is For the greatest chance of success, each piece of particularly straightforward plant should have bot leaves and roots. The new when the plant has distinct plants can then be planteé into separate pots slight. roseties, such as saintpaulia, sepa- ly larger than their root system, and rate upright stems, such as tle the potting soil around the roots. chamaedorea, or distinet pseudo: bulbs, such as orchids. Chamacaora Start by removing the plant before divisipn from its pot and laying it on a flat surface to examine it. (Watering a} hour before removing it from its pot will enable fou to remove it more easily.) Select a point wherd separation looks possible and gently natous OF very dense root sys fe that it is clean and sharp, and the plan: begin to se the roots apart. It may be necessary Plants of this size can Each division needs to wash tiefoos frst togeta clearer view, butitis | jeifnided mma many Drie and laren Plan important tp inflict as little damage as possible to smati plants or fewer into separate pots of fresh the roots, gince this will hinder their recovery. large ones soil and water to setile 100PROPAGATION SEED PROPAGATION The production of seed is nature’s way of ensuring a continuing mix of genes to give strong, healthy characteristics. Unlike plants that are grown from cuttings, which are clones of the parent, plants grown from seed can bear characteristics of ancestors going back several generations, rather than just the parents, so the exact appearance of the offspring is very hard to predict. It is less common to grow indoor plants from seed than outdoor varieties, because so many more are produced than can normally be ased, although the surplus can always be given away or exchanged ‘The attraction is the chance to grow something exotic, such as an avocado or citrus, from a seed which might otherwise be discarded, and this can be a fun way to interest a child in the process of growing, For the keen cook, it is also easy to grow sprouting beans, and herbs like basil and parsley, from seed in a succession of small useable batches to ensure a regular, manageable supply. For the majority of seeds, germination is trig- gered as soon as they are sown into soil and begin 10 absorb moisture through the seed coat. However, some seeds have a particularly hard or moisture- resistant seed coat and need a little help before the process of germination can begin. The key is to carefully break through the outer layer of the seed. beoat without damaging the embryo inside. The easiest way to do this is scraping or “scarifying” the seed with an abrasive, such as sandpaper, or chip- ping away a tiny sliver of the seed coat with a clean, sharp knife. SEED SIZES Seeds come in all shapes and sizes, from huge stones to tiny seeds as fine as dust, and every size in between bd Begonia Basil Solendstemon PROVIDING THE RIGHT CONDITIONS | Some seeds germinate readily with litle or no help, but others are more fussy and require the correct conditions to grou: Humidity 2 Temperature Most seeds grow well in a temperature of about 65°F (18°C), but some requize higher tempera- Light Once germination eecurs, «# Soil mix A moist environment Seedlings grow best in & will prevent the leaves of ‘young seedlings losing ‘water, which eaanot be the seedlings will need 16 bbe placed in a brighly lit position, out of direct light and free-draining soil mix that does not ‘contain much fertilizer re pots of pol- ‘ing soil (for exarnple, for tures in order to germ sun, Too much direct sun Ta ster replaced uncil a good root system has formed. A propagation case is ideo, nate successfully: A heat Tight will seoreh the deli ‘ed propagation case will gate new leaves, while too spore sowing, see page bbut a plastic bag sealed maintain a constant tem. fittle sunlight will eause 102), Filla small pot with around the pot works just 1a well. When the seeds establish, you may need to support the plastic bag fon short eanes to prevent at touching the leaves (hich cam lead to rotting) perature. These come in the seedlings w» become tall, weak, and spindly. ‘This is alsoa problem if seed soll mix and firm various sives, necording to gently: Lay a pieee of how many seeds (or eut- paper towel on the sur- tings) are to be grown two many seedlings are face and pour boiling. Wean the young plants lets too close together ‘water through undi it before they leave the case by gradually lowering the temperature tm the seed tray for woo long, because they are competing for light, comes out of the drainage holes at the base. Let cool before use, 101CARE AND SOWING FINES. Fine seed should be sown broadcast MAINTENANCE 2ED sprinkled on the surface ~ because if buried 100 deep, it will run out of energy before it reaches the surface. Seeds have pnly a limited food supply to last until they are buried too deep, they run out of food before they reach this stage and die. ‘The eastest way to handle extremely fine seed is to mix it jwith silver sand before sowing, so tha it can be seqn. As with any seed, always be guided y the instyuctions on the seed packet regarding the depth dt which to plant the seed, as well as, whether i: should be If theye is no packet, the general rule is that the ‘overed, smaller the)seed, the less covering it needs; very fine seed inay need no covering at all. After sowing, cover the ppt with a plastic bag, held securely in place with 4 rubber band, or place a shi over the sed tray. Place in a shady spot at a tem: perature off approximately 60-70°F (15-20°C) until germination ocours, ot of glass To sow very fine seed (here, Begonia x catrierei, fila pot or seed tray with Seed and cutting soil Level the surface by scraping off the excess swith a siraight edge across the rim Use a bodra to firm the seil very hently and create a level surface, Sieve a fine layer of soil over the top to Jorm the seedbed. Sprinkie inches of the seed-dund-sand mix evenly onte the soil Water by standing the tray inside a larger one containing water. they form foots and begin to photosynthesize. If PRICKING OUT The process of loosening the growing seedlings and transplanting them from their seed tray into Individual pots is called “pricking out.” Gently grip the seedling by the leaves and use a dibble to plans it into fresh soil Aftercare Remove the covering when germination starts, ancl transfer to a bright situation, out of direct sunlight, ‘Turn regularly if the light is lopsided, to prevent the seedlings becoming drawn and bent. As soon as the young plants have two ‘true’ leaves (which appear after the first “seed” leaves), they can b pricked out into small, individual pots of soil. Handle by the leaves at this stage, not the stem, because bruising the stem now will kill the plan} Settle by watering gently, rather than pressing the soil with fingers or a dibble, because this can damage the roots, Spores Select a mature frond with sporangia on the under- side and check the ripeness of the spores by touch ing them gentiy —a dust-like deposit on the finger indicates that they are ready. Detach the frond with a clean, sharp knife and lay it face-up on a piece oi clean, white paper, where any activity is clearly visible. Keep in a warm place for a day or two, sb plenty of spores are shed. Sow the spores onto moist, sterile soil, enclose ir a plastic bag, and place in @ warm position with plenty of bright light, but not direct sum, Mist twice and allowed th cool) until the soil is covered with green “moss” a week with sterilized water (boiled (this takes approximately 6-12 weeks). Prick out small pieces of and mist with lukewarm boiled water. Finally, seal into plastic bags and keep them in a warm, bright place, misting daily, until tiny ferns develop. ‘These can be transplanted as soon as they are large enough to handle moss” onto sterile soi | 102PROPAGATION SOWING SMALL SEED This technique is suitable for any seed that is large enough to be handled individually. Citrus seeds are ideal. Some plants can be raised indoors purely for fun and for the satisfaction gained from the sight of a new shoot emerging from the soil. Citrus seed from oranges, lemons, and grapefruits ~ is ideal for children to experiment with, because it is free and would otherwise be thrown away. It will also germinate fairly quickly, producing an attractive plant with fragrant, glossy leaves. Unfortunately, it is unlikely to produce fruit, since the conditions may le, although citrus plants are certainly not be suita worth growing for their foliage alone. You will need to plant several seeds to ensure that at least one healthy plant grows on Curus bearing fruit SOWING LARGE SEED The pips from oranges, © Ditemons and grape fruics are all easy to grow ‘and qutick to germinate in spring and suramer. Sow fresh fiom the fruit or “keep tn water until you are ready to sow them Fill a pot with soit and % Water with a fine space the seeds eventy spray to settle the sot on the surface. Press them then keep warm and moist in carefully 10 twice Germination will take their depth about 6-8 weeks There are few really large seeds that are grown for indoors. Coconut and avocado are the exceptions. Take an edible fruit and carefully slice it open with a clean, sharp Anife. Ease the “pit” ot of the middle with a teaspoon or blunt knife, being care ful not to cut into it OD Push the blunt end of the pit inte a pot of soil, leaving the pointed end slightly exposed. Water to seitle the soil, then keep warm at 65°F (18°C) until @ The main advantage of large seed is that it is easy to handle, since it does not need mixing with sand or thinning out if too many seedlings germinate. In fact, large seeds can usually be sown into individual pots of soil large enough to support their growth for several weeks, eliminating the need to transplant the seedlings and risk them suffering a check in growth as a result of the shock. Coconut is the largest seed grown for indoors, but as it is impractical to plant in the home, garden centres usually sell seed that has already been germinated. Avocado and date pits are good to experiment with, since they would otherwise be thrown away ~ there is nothing to lose by sowing them, and possibly a nice plant to gain, Both can be soaked in water first to maintain the moisture levels, inside the seed if they cannot be sown immediately, Be patient with larger seeds after sowing, because they may take some weeks to germinate. Keep the seed warm and the growing medium moist until the first shoot appears. 103CARE AND He MAIN PURPOSE of pruning a plant is to [ remove dead, damaged, or diseased stems and th prevent rot and fungal attack, as well as any crojsihg or rubbing stems. Not only does this control vigi flowering (oy fruit production. Pruning can be car ried out a although plant is at ; but it can also be used to promote ny time of the year, as the need arises, benefit is greatest in spring, wher the ts most active and new growth will respond quigkly. Many infloor plants are too small, soft, er sappy to need mufh in the way of pruning, apart from, deadheading as the flowers fade to encourage the formation of more buds and prevent the old ones from rotting. Woody plants need attention to keep the growth healthy and going in the right direc- tion. Plants |with a bushy habit need to have their growing poifits removed from the main shoots reg- ularly % encourage the development of side branches, which should also be tipped to produce a rounded shape. If the plant has variegated foliage, MAINTENAN Pruning Plants any shoots that revert to plain green must be removed immediately, since the increased chloro, phyll in these shoots makes them stronger, and they will take over if left in place. PRUNING CUTS The position of the cut is critical ~ too close to the bud and it will die, t00 far away and the dying stub of stem is a target for disease Alternate buds Lot The cut should slant upward to jst above an outward-facing Bud, without being too close or touching i Opposite buds WGhT The cut should be made straight across the stern above the buds DEADHEADING This technique involves removing the flowers as they begin to fade and die. It reduces the risk of fungal attack and As flowers fade, they start to took unsightly and waste the plant’s energy in the production of seed Using clean, sharp pruners or scis. sors, remove the flower head, ‘and any seed developing underneath This encour ages additional flowering conserves the plant’ energy Dying flowers on a plant not only look unsightly. but they are liable to rot as they fall, making them a prime target for attack by gray mold (botrytis, see Pests and Diseases, pages 116-7). Disease can spread quickly to the rest of the plant if there are any damaged areas where it can enter. The whole of the dying flower head should be removed. including any develop ing sceds, because uniess the seed is going to be collected and used, its production wastes the plant's energy. With many plants, removing the flowers as they fade encour: ages the production of more buds, since their natural instinet, is to produce seed. This has the effect of extending the flowering season and increasing the inter: est of the plant Rose afier deadheading 104PRUNING PLANTS PINCHING, TIPPING, AND BUSHING Unlike most climbing and trailing plants, which are allowed to grow unchecked, plants with a more rounded habit need to have their regularly to encourage bushy grow owing tips removed. ~~ The natural growth- known as “pinching” on a younger plant, when it regulating hormones of is usually carried out with the finger and thumb, plant are found in the but it can also be used to encourage climbing highest concentrations plants to produce multiple stems. Pruners are in the growing points of often used to trim older plants all over in a process the shoots, where they known as “tipping” to keep them growing to the act to suppress competi- required sh tion from the other buds down the stems. If these tips are removed, the hormones in the other buds are triggered into Azalea before pinching action, producing a side shoot from almost ev leaf axil — known as “bushing” In nature, this is, tended to provide another leading shoot to assume dominance, but it can also be used on domestic plants to encourage them to form dense, bushy growth, Manipulating growth in this way is, Pinching out Pinching out all of the main growing tips on a young plant, after flowering, helps produce plenty of even growth, rather than a few dominant shoots: REJUVENATING PLANTS Cutting a plant right down may sound cruel, but it can sometimes be the best thing for a plant if it is looking straggly or has ‘outgrown its allotted space. Use clean, Severe pruning to rejuvenate a plant is a fairly sharp extreme measure, since plants will only respond if pruners to 1° am they have the ability to regrow from the base. For those which do, it allows them to remain in pertcularly if the home rather than being discarded. Tt js ‘thas been useful if, as with this bougainvillea, the twound or tied plant has been. purchased around aframe. in flower but looks straggly as the flowers die off. Cutting the old * stems off close to the hase sq OQ Cutdown to — will provide strong, new b LPI buds veph cement ste = which can be tained as they grow fin Cay and although flowering vibe Maer tay be sacrificed for a and feed the time, the result is a much plane more attractive plant. Once the new buds have started y to grow, trim off any dead —_-Bougaimuillea stem, as it may rot looking stragglyCARE AND MAINTENANCE REMEDIAL PRUNING Remedial pruning is an operation aimed at maintaining the health of the plant. It is generally carried out on older plants or those Even plants that have been well cared for can fall prey occasional damage or at by pests and disease. By taking action as soon as the problem is seen, repercussions can easily be avoidee. Remedial pruning means cutting out the dead and dis eased parts of the plant, includ ing any stems that might have been damaged. Woody pla: benefit fron i Lantana ca:ngra after prarinle ss, in particular, often a remedial trim to thin out over Overcrowded and damaged stems lead to ill-health, and leave the plant vulnprable to disease. remo CREATING Use pruners to cut damaged stems back to healthy tissue and weak, stragely growth. hich have suffered damage. crowded stems, or to remove any that are crossing each other, since these might rub together and ‘open up a wound in the stems where disease could enter the plant. A plain green stem on a variegated plant should be removed as soon as it is noticed, to prevent it dominating, This is because there is no chlorophyll] in the yellow or white parts of the variegated leaves and their growth is correspondingly slower, maki: the all-green shoots much more dominant Remedial pruning can be carried out at any time of the year, as it is required, but flowers will be lost if it is done as the buds are developing. 2B dint afrmeuorhf soon healthy branches. Airflow through the plant prevents fungal attack TOPIARY Ina cool conservatory, sunroom, or entrance porch a perfectly-clipped piece of toptary makes a dramatic focal point, in the same way as a statue or Small leaved, slow growing evergreen plants are weal for clipping ‘into formal or fun shapes. They can be purchased pre- hhaped, or trained from an early age by using a pre formed wire shape (see page 45). Trim regularly with pruners to keep it within the framework 106 ornament. © As the plant ages and reaches the desired shape, it will need only a regular trim to keep it within the outline. This can be done by pinching as soon as shoots emerge beyond the outline, or in spring and early fall using hand shearsTRAINING PLANTS Training Plants ‘ANY HOUSEPLANTS originate in the wild as \ [irr climbers, trailers, and seram Dlers, holding onto their svpport by means of aerial roots, twining tendrils, or twisting stems. These plants need to be trained against a wall or frame to keep their growth — which is often inclined to be straggly if left to itself — under control Plants such bergia, and Ficus pumila naturally trail, but they too can be grown against frames to display their low. ers or foliage to full advan- tage. The support should suit the plant — a large plant, such as monstera, The vigorous stems of this jasmine will soon outgrow a circular suppor which must be disnazied to prevent the stems becoming congested and open to disease, as they wind around and around. hoya, thun. needs a sturdy frame, while a delicate plant, such as pas- siflora needs a more delicate one in order to create a Jasmine after training balanced display. Unwind each stem carefully in turn, being. careful to remove any ties first. Longer stems can be laid horizontally on the table, out of the way. Supports and ties ‘There is a wide variety of frames available, made ‘The plant’s stems are tied in place using string, twisties, wire rings, or twine ~ tightly enough to hold them in place, but not so tight that they constrict or bite into the tissue. Agains for example ~ the stems can ic, and ri from wire, bamboo, pla a wall ~ in a conservatory, ld in place using hoops attached and garden small nails with plas twine as ties. PLANTS FOR TRAINING Young plants can be trained on smaller frames, Remove the circular hoop and place the new frame inside the Then, carefully te0ave each ster into the trellis, ‘ying them in place if neces Sary to provide support. but large ones need to progress | to.amore substantial support | Training on a wall or Training on moss pole: lange frame: 9x Faeshedera lize # Ficus pumila Cissus Moustera ¢ Heders # Philodendron © Passitl ‘Training on a small frame: + Plumbago ericulenn Rees purin strobes *etgosiom 107CARE AND MAINTENANCE Stakes and Supports ‘or suppdrt. However, indoors ~ where they are - THE WILD, climbing plants rely on each other often grgwn as individual specimens — a port of some description must be provided. Stakes and supportts/should enhance the appearance of the plant, which) unobtrusive as possible, Using a frame to support a climbing plant not only allows |t to be trained to grow in a certain oosing ones that are as direction, byt it takes the strain off the stems, reduces stresp, and allows it to concentrate its ener gies on growling and flowering. Tt holds the plant firmly in place, reduces the chance of it falling over, and (c4n be used to increase the air-flow between the Stems, thereby lowering the chance of an attack by fungal disease. ‘Types of support 'he type of upport used should be chosen to suit both the plait and its sit able in a bamboo, plajtic, metal, and wood, or as raffia~ or moss-filled poles. In an ornamental situation, the support can foe of an ornate design, or it can be painted to cofnplement the surroundings. In a tem. porary or bps functional situation, however, plain bambob canes may be all that are needed. tion. Supports are avail fide variey of materials, including Using the shpport Whichever teans of support you choose, make sure it is f'rgly anchored in the container so that Canes The straighe stds of this ree iwy are ted 10 green canes to support their weight, This plant wrud give height o.a grouped atyangement. Bamboo frame J young bouguinuillea is temporarily supported with a homemade bamboo frame, to show off its lowers. there is no possibility of the plant pulling it down) as it grows, This means that wall supports must be fixed securely to the wall with several heavy-duty serews or nails, and pot-held frames must be pushed down well into the soil. In a pot, the overall height of the support must also be taken into con. sideration, since a growing plant could make it top. heavy, causing it to fall over. WHEN TO STAKE Stems, particularly woody ones, will set into a curled position if rat staked in time. | When siems reach the Pash the support down into the soil at the side of the pot to avoid damage tothe root ball stage where they can no longer support their own weight, and begin to “flop aver, ibis time to sake them, Hoop frame The deticate foliage of a small-leaved iny és shown to full advantage on an equally thin wire frame Raffia pole Although it does not hold ‘moisture, the open raffia used here allows a satin pothes to grip on with its aerial rootsSTAKES AND SUPPORTS MOSS POLE Plants that produce aerial roots and enjoy a humid environment will thrive against a moist moss pole. ds the plants grow, the pole becomes completely covered in lush, healthy foliage. Many plants grow in the wild by moisture from the soil, leaving more water for the means of aerial roots, which roots. The stems are held against the pole by wrap- anchor themselves into moist ping twie around them or using small wire hoops crevices in the surrounding rocks to hold them in place. and trees, Without this moisture, the roots shrivel and die, and the plant’s support is lost. Indoors, this environment can be recreat- ed using moist sphagnum moss, either wired around a cane or packed inside a wire tube. The ‘moss must form a continuous col. umn, which can draw moisture Iny climbing up from the soil, because if there amosspole is a break in the column, the upper moss will dry out. Tt will 4 Ce wire for che tube Wrap it into a tube also benefit from being sprayed regularly using a 1 Bee a ato 0 shape and bend the mister, as this will prevent it taking up the plant and pot ends over to hold it closed Osec sortcane io Al Pat crockery shard Hold the stems in place {> Space the plants push the moist sphag- and growing medium using small hoops of evenly around the pole, num moss firmly down in the pot, then position the _plastic-covered wire, fill in wich potting soil and inside the tube. pole inside, pressed into the moss ‘mist thoroughly. CLIMBING PLANTS Although many plants can be grown against moss poles, those with aerial roots are smost suitable. The plants featured below are ideal choices for mass poles Peperomia serpens Cissus rhombifolia Syngonium sp Monstera (young plant)HOUSEPLANT DOCTOR HIS SECTION OF THE book shows you how to | identify problems and deal with them easily so that a plant can recover from an attack by pests or disease, or a physiological condition, with the min mum of damage A flow chart allows you to recognize symptoms and make quick diagnoses when a plant is beginning to look unhealthy. A guide to common houseplant pests discusses how they can be brought into the home and how to eliminate them, while a section on diseases pro- vides information on prevention and remedies. Physiological problems, such as drafts and reversion, are also examined in detail. Finally, there is advice on the various controls and chemical preparations avail- able to combat insects and disease. anove Keeping leaves aust- and dirt-free helps plants, such as this citrus, to make the most of the available light srt To thrive, Caladium bicolor needs a five-month rest period from fall, when the leaves die dow, until spring ttO® plan plant can fal diseases, or condition. the problem adentify ai healthy an under stre attack and \s Nor an ideal world, ai is beneficial. Even the jsuffer due to a sudden with the minimum of s| for whatever reason, is lacking in resources to fight it off | B-- 7. #0 vs 18 JT GREEN? j that comes into contact wih our 1 victim to random attack by pests or 1e key to bringing the plant through deal with it quickly. Keeping plants well-fed also helps, because @ plant HOUSEPLANT DOCTOR agnosing Plant Problems nd not every- Cleaning is also important, as a build-up of dust and pollution deposits can clog the pores throug! best cared-for which the plants breathe, so that they weaken and become more susceptible to infestation. | physiological Not every condition will mean reaching for chemical, although it may be the only answer to a damage is to really persistent problem. Often, inverting a plant into a bowl or bucket of soapy water may b enough to cure a minor attack of greenfly, fo. vulnerable to example. If chemicals are required, they should b used strictly in accordance with the manufacturer CAN YoU SEE & ApEsT? te IN THE SOIL? ‘a on} ‘as WHITE WHITH A 40 “ nzOWN, pe ns SITUKE A oan? seem TINY WORM? 142, oes rr nave ew a ses sepemy BAVE WINGS! eff BvI0US LEGS? a) IS TT. no ISIT BROWN? vesinstructions, and sensible precautions must be taken if recommended, such as wearing gloves or a face mask. Children anid pets should be kept out of the way while the chemical is being applied Whenever a plant begins to look unwell, or just not as healthy as usual, itis worth running through a quick mental checklist to establistt a cause. When was it last watered? When was it last fed? Has the humidity level changed recently? Is the pot size right? Is the plant getting enough light? Could it have been chilled or ovetheated? Is there a visible pest? Is there a sign of disease (such as the fur of a mold, or the slime of a rot)? Correct identification of the problem is crucial to the treatment, but it DIAGNOSING PLANT PROBLEMS can be hampered by the fact that identical symp- toms may have differing causes. Having identified the problem, the next step is to deal with it effec- tively. This is easier for some conditions than others, and it may be preferable to put the plant into isolation in a separate roora for wo or three weeks while it is being treated, before it can become a hazard to its neighbors. For instance, a fungus such as gray mold will attack any plant that has damaged tissue through which the spores can find a point of entry. If the plant is being treated with a chemical, either as a spray or a drench, it is safer to apply it outdoors on a calm, windless day. ozs 1 Have ™ ors 17 wave ® 6 Lacs? Biecs? om ™ = = ves ms vs MORE THAN oa 8 uncs? DOES IT HAVE “PINGERS” ON’ ITS REAR END? vs IST RED? %0 - IS IT GREEN? - 113 House spiders will sometimes live on indoor plants but do not usually cause any harm. ws "0 xs Is IT INSIDE, vis A ROLLED-UP Lar?HOUSEPLANT DOCTOR STH OB 18 THE PLANT qe PLAST 40 LOOKING | 0 mod NYE WILTING? YELLOWISH? ‘THE EDGES? ~ vs el =... qs | COULD IT , oom ie BE DRY? , uw couon. =, 18 THE som. WA ve WET AND PATTERN ON 4 SMELLY? THE LEAVES? =, _ 1s THE PLANT| {A SEEDLING? =. IS THERE ANY We DAMAGE TO 40 Ey | Draughts cause fluctuations in is There Any) “mssme? pg, Duescego fp consant tempera 2: pee, Danas inane i renee | =,, as oH amb ate oan iste rawr} srt wnTER EP stasonov NOAR A suomi — OASELY: AHOT, DRY, g'° gj DOOR OR OPEN = PLANT IS ON A aa ‘OR SUNt WINDOW? WINDOWSILI? | PLACE? = Excessive heat and/or sunlight will cause many plants to wilt, Place away from heat or sun to allow recovery.DIAGNOSING PLANT PROBLEMS 1S THE PLANT. deat RoDveING COLORED 7 cxur sats ws nis ot cn sos TH Lewes on sass = ves] = ” ane THey © > we HAVE THE, i ASD -RROWN FLOWER BUDS - FALLEN OFF “ ‘UNOPENED? = ARETHEY =, FLAT AND ts BROWN? MASA =. YaReGaTED PLANT “TURNED AL. wom GREEN? GRaY/ nes wire? ™E sss one ane THEY shoot SUNKEN AND es APPEARED ON es BLACK? | YARTEGATED - PLANT? On a winter night che "

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