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Embroidery Fabric Tutorials

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 FREE
Embroidery Fabric Tutorials

Table of Contents
All fabrics have different properties,
which require different treatment when
embroidering. In this e-book you’ll find four
tutorials to help you choose the correct
1 LUXE LAMÉ
Pauline Richards.......................... pg 3
design, stabilizer and needle for specific
fabric types to ensure successful stitching. 2 KNIT KICK
Pauline Richards.......................... pg 5
To save yourself stress when stitching lamé,
scroll down to “Luxe Lamé,” and learn tips for 3
LACE MOVEMENT
embroidering on the tricky special-occasion Stephanie Corina Goddard....... pg 7
fabric. If you often embroider interlock knits,
look to “Knit Kick” for a tutorial on the best 4
TERRIFIC TOWELING
thread, stabilizer and needle to use. Plus, get Jeanine Twigg.............................. pg 12
tips on pressing and laundering the fabric
after embroidery. Also included is “Lace
Movement,” which provides an in-depth look
at embroidering the open-weave fabric. Spice
up your kitchen or bathroom towels without
fear using the guidance in “Terrific Toweling.”

You’re sure to find some great tips

from the tutorials in this e-book!

Happy stitching!

Nicki LaFoille
Associate Editor, CME

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fabric forays
Understanding fabric types

Tissue lamé is a delicate

fabric often used for special-
occasion wear when glitz
is desired.

Luxe By Pauline Richards

Lamé 3
 Change needles often when embroidering on lamé fabric
to avoid fraying or snagging.

Fabric facts
Lightweight in nature, tissue lamé is made
of flat metallic yarns in both the lengthwise
and crosswise directions. The fabric is
lightweight yet quite stiff with little natural
drape. It can fray, or snag if not handled
properly and can easily be damaged
by dull needles or pins.
Design selection
Choose simple designs that allow the
beauty of the fabric to shine through.
Because of the delicate nature of the
fabric, it’s important to choose a design
appropriate for the weight of the fabric.
Designs that have a low stitch count
yet cover a large area are good choices,
as are open designs. Designs that don’t
compete with the natural glitz of the fabric
are good choices. For example, avoid
designs that call for metallic threads or
high stitch count, detailed designs.

Cover the fabric area to be hooped Scrolls: Oklahoma Embroidery Supply & Design,
Hooping #F1329
with a sheet of lightweight, water-soluble
Because lamé is fragile, it can suffer hoop stabilizer and back the fabric with tear- Heart: Anita Goodesign, Stipples, design 35
burn. Protect the fabric with one of these away stabilizer. The water-soluble stabilizer Rose: Adorable Ideas, Lace 3rd Edition Volume #5,
methods: design 36
will protect the fabric and eliminate hoop

Interface the fabric back with a fusible
Umbrella: My Fair Lady Designs, Summer Stipple #2
burn, yet allow you to see the placement
mesh or interfacing. marks.


Wrap the hoop in cotton strips.

Hoop the stabilizer only, spray with
Pauline W. Richards publishes the Total Embellishment
Newsletter (TEN). She writes regularly for CME and works
temporary adhesive and adhere the fabric
with several sewing machine and trim companies.
to the stabilizer.

Stabilizers Needles Thread Pressing

Use mesh cut-away and light- Always insert a new needle in 40-weight polyester and rayon Wrinkles can be difficult
weight tear-away stabilizers. machine before embroidering embroidery thread and 50-weight and sometimes impossible to
When using mesh cut-away, on lamé. A size 80/12 metallic cotton embroidery thread all remove; always thoroughly
trim all excess stabilizer close works well and is sturdy work well as does 30-weight press before embroidering.
to stitching to ensure that soft- enough to withstand repeated rayon when used with a size Lamé is very heat sensitive, so
ness of fabric is maintained. needle penetrations during 90/14 embroidery needle. press on a low heat setting and
For best results, it may be embroidery. Metallic threads are not always test iron temperature on
necessary to use two layers recommended because metallic fabric scraps before pressing
of tear-away stabilizer. threads tend to blend into and a project. Use steam sparingly
disappear into fabric. and press embroidery from
wrong side to avoid flattening.

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 Understanding fabric types

fabric forays

Knit By Pauline Richards

Cozy and comfortable,
interlock knits transcend
the seasons when worn
layered. Best of all, knits

Kick are easily embroidered

when you follow our tips
and tricks.
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 Pre-wash knits before embroidering to remove the sizing and allow the fabric
to shrink (even 50/50 poly/cotton shrinks).Test-stitch all designs to check for proper
underlay stitching—especially those with high stitch count designs—and to make
sure the proper stabilizer has been chosen for the fabric and design.

Fabric facts
Interlock knit fabric is widely available,
reasonably priced, versatile and resilient
making it a good foundation for embroi-
dery. Available in a variety of fiber contents
including 100% polyester, 100% cotton
and cotton/poly blends, these fine-gauge
knit fabrics look similar to jersey except
both front and back look identical and
it does not curl at the edges the way rib
knit does.
Design selection
Stabilizer selection
Because interlock knit is, by nature, soft
It’s essential to use mesh or light to Pauline Richards publishes the Total Embellishment
and drapey, it’s important to select designs
medium-weight cut-away stabilizer when Newsletter (TEN). She works with several sewing machine
that allow the fabric to maintain that
embroidering on interlock knits. For and trim companies.
quality. Small designs and designs with a
low stitch count are ideal, but when larger, further stability, place an extra layer of Puppies border: Creative Design, design #CH0401
high-stitch-count designs are selected be lightweight tear-away stabilizer between Butterfly: Adorable Ideas, Sparkler Butterfly #2 Kit,
sure the fabric will support the larger the machine and the hooped cut-away design ASD076
design by test-stitching. Logos, quilting stabilizer before stitching high-stitch-count Flower: My Fair Lady Designs, Summer Stipple 2,
designs, borders and appliqués are all designs. Always cut excess stabilizer away design #22
good choices. when the embroidery is complete.
Bear: Sew Many Designs, School Rules Design Pack

Hooping Needle Thread Pressing

Interlock stretches easily; Use size 80/12 embroidery Polyester, rayon and cotton Always cover embroidery with
hoop stabilizer and spray with needle or ballpoint needle embroidery thread are all suitable press cloth when pressing on
temporary adhesive before when embroidering on 100% for use on interlock knits. These wrong side of stitching.
positioning fabric. Use “fix” cotton and cotton/poly blends. knits can support 30-, 40- and
or “baste” stitch to secure When embroidering on 100% 50-weight thread.
fabric to stabilizer. polyester, use size 80/12 or
90/14. Test to find best choice
for chosen fabric. Use
70/10 or 75/11 for lighter
weight knits.

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Pamper y ourself w ith a pretty
nightgow n (Sample 1) or other
pieces of lingerie w hen y ou learn Kwik Sew
how to successfully embroider on 3342
stretch lace.

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 By Stephanie Corina Goddard

Embellish stretch lace with machine

embroidery. All it takes is the right combination
of embroidery design and supplies.
Sample 2

Getting started
Follow our tips and suggestions for purchasing yardage or choosing a ready-
choosing fabric, stabilizer and designs to-wear garment for embroidery, test for
before beginning your embroidery. recovery by stretching the lace—on both
Ready-made or custom-sewn garments the cross grain and straight grain—
work equally well with our techniques. between your fingers. Choose one that
Fabric selection bounces back into shape in both direc-
tions when released. Follow the manufac-
Stretch lace fabrics typically contain a
turer’s directions to pre-wash the stretch
blend of spandex and nylon. They vary
lace before embroidering or cutting.
considerably in weight and drape; not all
have the structure and resilience needed Stabilizer selection
to support embroidery. The most delicate
Stretch lace, like any knit, should not motif permits very close trimming all
type of stretch lace has raised patterns on be directly hooped. Instead, hoop around (Sample 2). Use adhesive water-
an allover mesh background (Samples stabilizer and then adhere the fabric to soluble stabilizer when stitching open, lacey
3, 5, 6). On the bolt, it’s difficult to the surface with temporary spray adhesive. motifs or designs composed of so many
distinguish from regular allover lace until To avoid damaging the fabric when remov- small elements that trimming around each
handled. Another type—often shelved ing stabilizer after embroidery, choose a one is impractical (Samples 1, 3, 4, 7).

Wet lace is heavy and fragile. To prevent
with knits—resembles fine sweater knit. product formulated to cut away or dissolve
Variable-sized holes knitted into the cloth in water. tearing, support the weight of the embroi-

Cut-away stabilizer treated with tempo-
create a lacey effect (Samples 2, 4, 7).
Yet other stretch laces include both types dery from beneath when rinsing or remov-
rary spray adhesive works nicely when a ing the stabilizer in a water bath. Nylon
of construction (Sample 1). Before

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 Sample 3 Sample 4 Sample 5

and spandex don’t tolerate high heat, so the embroidery outline and then dissolve for a cutwork edge carefully. It’s OK to
avoid heat-soluble stabilizers. the water-soluble mesh, allowing the stitch eyelets, but don’t punch them out

To improve stitch quality, even out the organza to show through on the front. (Sample 7).
stitching surface with a topper of film-type Design selection
A lace background is busy, so choose
water-soluble stabilizer over the embroi-
Whenever possible, test-stitch a motif motifs and colors strong enough to stand
dery field. Or incorporate a permanent on scrap fabric. Remove excess stabilizer out against the fabric.
topper, especially when stitching on a lace (allow the sample to dry completely if
structure with large voids. Choose between Wearing ease
applicable), and then test the result to
a tear-away topper such as Hide-It
Expect the fabric to lose all flexibility
make sure the fabric doesn’t tear or the
(Sample 5) or a cut-away topper such embroidery distort when stressed. under a dense fill, so choose a location
as organza (Sample 2) based on the The more delicate the lace structure, the that doesn’t require stretch when dressing
same criteria as for stabilizer: ease of lighter the stitching. Open, lacy or mesh- or wearing.
removal, depending on the contours of like fills work nicely on all stretch lace
For large-scale impact select (or
the embroidery. types because, under minimal stress, they combine) a design made up of scattered

Take creative advantage of very sheer flex along with the fabric (Samples 3 and elements and be sure to remove the
lace (Sample 6). Hoop a layer of water- 6). Over a netting-like background, stabilizer from between each one. The
soluble stabilizer together with a contrast straight stitch outlines are usually elastic fabric will retain some, but not all, of its
color organza beneath. The water-soluble enough to tolerate a small degree of flexibility.
product protects the delicate lace when stretch; but avoid straight stitching over
A single motif near the hem of a
closely trimming the organza (A). Choose large holes. Because stretch lace doesn’t camisole is less constricting than a border
a motif with an uninterrupted satin fray, it handles cutwork edge trimming design running around the hem.

Embroidery centered on the back or
stitch outline and a lacy interior. After well. If over-stretched the stitches may
embroidering, cut the organza close to pop, however, so choose the location
front of a pullover garment is more

A Hoop layer of water-soluble stabilizer with contrast B Cut upper front pattern C Pin lace inset over main fabric matching
color organza beneath. apart on design line raw edges.

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 Sample 6 Sample 7

practical than one running along a Enlarge a corner motif by copying and pasting selected
neckline. portions in customizing software, using free rotation to match

Cutwork embroidery on a bell sleeve the angle of the design line on the garment.

Cut out the garment sections from the
is more forgiving than on a tight wrist
opening that must expand to get a hand lace with a companion fabric. If so,
through. Cutwork also works as a skirt remember that lace in a shade that’s a bit main fabric and remove the pattern pieces.
hem treatment for skating costumes or lighter is usually more pleasing than one Cut the upper front pattern apart on the
dancewear. that’s darker. design line (B). No seam allowance is
needed.

Cut the lace fabric from the new upper
Other supplies Supplies

Minimize stress on the fabric by using
Nightgown pattern designed for front pattern piece.
a new size 75/11 embroidery needle. stretch fabrics
With both fabrics right side up pin the



Dots of bobbin thread may show on the Main fabric yardage according to lace inset over the main fabric, matching
right side of the work. If necessary, wind pattern envelope raw edges (C).



Set up the machine for standard sewing
1 ⁄ 2 yard of stretch lace
a bobbin with regular sewing thread to

Adhesive water-soluble stabilizer
match the lace color (Sample 7). and select a stretch stitch. On scraps, test



Use the smallest hoop possible for the
Embroidery, bobbin and sewing thread


stitch to arrive at a 1 ⁄ 4" wide stitch that
Embroidery designs of your choice
size of the design. Trim jump stitches and swings just beyond the lace edge. Sew
stray threads from the back of the work so Preparation slowly and guide the fabric with both


they don’t show through. hands in front of the needle to avoid
Tissue-fit the pattern and make any
stretching.
adjustments necessary. Draw a design
Nightgown
With small sharp scissors carefully trim


line on the upper front pattern indicating
It may be challenging to get an exact the seam between the lace insert and the the main fabric close to the stitching line.
color match when combining stretch main fabric; but don’t cut it apart.
Embroidery &
construction
D Trace full (right/left) upper pattern E Roll fabric over adhesive surface,
Select an embroidery motif. Centering
including seamline. matching cut edges and seamline on
tracing. the design in the hoop, print or stitch a
template.

Hoop paper-release adhesive water-
soluble stabilizer, score with a pin and
peel back the paper to reveal the adhesive.

Because the bodice has a complex
shape and character (the deep V-neck and
a stretchy seam), trace a full (right/left)
upper pattern including the seamline (D).
Place the embroidery template beneath
and trace the cross marks.

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Place the embroidery hoop over the pat- Sample 1 Cutwork: Husqvarna Viking, Disk Delicate & Dainty,
Nightgown: Kwik Sew 3342, modified design 15
tern tracing, centering the cross mark with
Floral designs: Needle Passion Embroidery, Heirloom Credit
the center indicators on the hoop frame. Scrolls Collection Hide It permanent topper from www.embroidery.com.
Remember, the hoop center may not be Sample 2
the design center. Gently roll the fabric Ready-made panties with organza topper
over the adhesive surface, matching the Corset design: Embroidables, SanLori “Wedding,”
design corset
cut edges and seamline indicated on the
tracing (E on page 79). Finger-press in Sample 3
Multi-color mesh floral on beige
place. Floral design: Machine Embroidery: Wild and Wacky,

Pin a layer of clear water-soluble published by Krause Publications
stabilizer over the embroidery area and Sample 4
Pink scroll on white
follow with the machine’s “fix” or “baste”
Scroll design: Design Citi, Royal Scrolls 1, design
function if available. Corner

Embroider the design; remove the Sample 5
stabilizer following the manufacturer’s Fleur de lis trio on beige with Hide It topper
Fleur de lis design: Design Citi, Royal Scrolls 1, design
directions. Fleur Two Color

Construct the nightgown according to Sample 6
the pattern guidesheet.
Butterflies on white with colored organza as stabilizer
Butterfly design: Sew Man, design #BF-204
Stephanie Corina Goddard writes and sews in Easton, Sample 7
Cutwork (2 colors) on pink stripe
Md. to the sounds of classical music and dog snores.

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 Machine embroidery 101

back to basics

Terrific By Jeanine Twigg

Toweling
Thick or thin, formal or casual—towels are simple to embroider
and make great gifts!

Toweling choices Design decisions

Towels are available in an assortment of styles
Monograms are an obvious choice for towel
and sizes, with a band or border, or without. The embroidery. The satin stitches of monograms
band area on towels can vary from 1" to 1 1 ⁄ 2". make for distinctive personalization as well as
Embroidery is traditionally centered above the hold down the towel nap. Fine stitches will sink
border or band. into the toweling. Select designs with sufficient

More luxurious or commercial towels are width to withstand the toweling nap and not
available without a band. There is more creative sink in.
embroidery freedom with towels that do not have
Fill designs with a lot of stitches can be
a band or border. The embroidery or monogram embroidered on towels with a few precautions.
can be positioned in a more pleasing location Pre-wash the towels before embroidery. This will
and the addition of trims can enhance the help prevent the design from cupping (launder-
finished appearance. ing after embroidery makes the toweling shrink

Kitchen towels have little or no nap depending but the design stitches stay in place causing the
on the style. Most specialty towels usually do not design to buckle under pressure). Use a topper
have a border, which makes them ideal for to prevent stitches from sinking into the nap
embroidery. A decorative border can be added and make sure the design has sufficient underlay
for a contrasting band of color. to hold the nap down.

Look for designs with

novelty stitch types, such as
compact chain stitches, that
will hold the nap down as well
as satin and fill stitches.

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Quick
Gift
Ideas!

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Test-stitch designs on similar fabric
to make sure sufficient underlay has
been used to hold down the toweling
nap or loops. Determine if your digitizing
software can import designs and add
underlay if more is needed.

Embroider using a polyester thread as it
will hold up to repeat washing and bleach.
Use a size 14/90 embroidery needle to
accommodate the toweling thickness.
Stabilizers

Toweling has a nap; therefore a topper


is required to hold down the loops. The
to surround the outside design area and Or, hoop the stabilizer and spray it
most common is a water-soluble topper.
remove the entire excess stabilizer. Use a with temporary adhesive. Secure the towel
Use a clear tear-away variety that is easy to
paper towel to dab stabilizer not removed to the stabilizer. Lightly spray the topper
remove. If a permanent topper is neces-
around the edges or within small areas of and secure it to the toweling. Use a
sary, consider using a vinyl topper or a
the design. perimeter basting or “fix” stitch to hold
layer of sheer organza or organdy in a

A clean tearing stabilizer will dissolve all the layers together during the
color that matches or contrasts the towel-
over time if one is used as a base. Note: embroidery process.
ing. The organza or organdy layer will be
The heavier or more compact the design,
Or, hoop a water-soluble adhesive
a bit more difficult to remove. Use it with
designs that are solid fill designs without the heavier the stabilizer needed. stabilizer and use it as a base and a topper
gaps in the embroidery. Use a very sharp for embroidery. Allow the laundry process
Hooping to remove both layers. Note: Removing
curved tip scissors to remove the layer.

Hooping a towel with the stabilizer can an adhesive stabilizer from loop toweling
Sometimes just opening the scissors and
holding the fabric taut is enough to be a daunting task. To do so, loosen the can be difficult as it can pull on the
support the fabric trim as the scissors hoop screw sufficiently to accommodate delicate loops. It is advisable to launder
glide around the design outer edge. hooping the topper, toweling and base the towels again to remove the stabilizer.

The base stabilizer can be a mesh or
stabilizer together.
adhesive water-soluble, or a tear-away.
Mesh water-soluble stabilizers can be Bath mats can be embroidered if they’re made from
trimmed after embroidery; the remainder lighter weight toweling. Place monograms or designs in
will dissolve in the laundry process. Trim
close to the design outer edge and leave it; the center; or create a border pattern at the
or use a needle-tip bottle filled with water upper and lower edges.

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 Prevention Is The
Design Placement Guide Best Medicine

A bo v e B a n d To avoid cupping or design

or B o r d er A bo v e H e m problems after embroidery,
Bath sheet 2 1 ⁄ 2" - 3" 5" pre-wash towels before
Bath towel 1 1 ⁄ 2" - 2" 4" embroidery according to
Hand towel 1" - 1 1 ⁄ 2" 2" the manufacturer’s direc-
Finger tip 1" 1 1 ⁄ 2" tions even if you’re giving
Washcloth* 1" 1 1 ⁄ 2"
the towels as gifts. Towels,
*Can also be embroidered in the corner at a diagonal
washed and dried, will
shrink and can shed or
Design placement Creative ideas



produce an abundance
Embroider at the opposite end of Sometimes the band or border of a
the label. Do not remove the label as it towel can be an obstruction. Look at this of lint. Pre-laundering is a
contains care instructions. Some towels area as an opportunity to show off your preventative measure that
are microfiber and have different creativity. Cover the band or border with
laundering instructions than those cotton flannel fabrics in an assortment of will keep your embroidery
made from cotton. widths. Cotton flannel matches the towel- designs looking fresh

Use the above chart as a guide; center ing texture and is more absorbent than wash-after-wash.
designs with the lower edge at the follow- most fabrics when pre-washed (see the
purple towel on page 13). Or, consider Remove excess lint
ing measurements from the band/border
or hem (A). Always audition designs embroidering the band with a continuous from the pre-laundered
using a design template and be creative border embroidery design.
towels by using a fabric
with design placement.
If the towel is large enough and the
band is unnecessary, cut off the toweling comb. Determine the
below the band. Serge or overcast the raw toweling nap and gently
edges and hem. Add a decorative trim wipe the comb over the
A Center designs with lower edge at
following the measurement listed in over the hem if desired.

Most kitchen towels do not have a band
toweling with the nap. This
chart from band/border or hem.
or border. If one is desired, add decora- will aid in removing the
Bath Towel tive ribbon or rickrack to create the look lint as well as making the
of a border (see the fruit towel at left).

towels look like new. More
Hand Towel
Jeanine Twigg is the contributing editor of CME luxurious or quality toweling
magazine. She is also the author of the Embroidery
will have far less lint than
Machine Essentials series published by Krause
Publications. less expensive brands.

2" Rose: Brother Innov-ís 4000D built-in design

4"
Kitchen fruit designs: Machine Embroidery Room by
11⁄2"
2" Room published Krause Publications
C & T letters: Anita Goodesign; Victorian Monogram
hdce3, hdvce3b, hdvt3
Washcloth Holiday Arch: Vintage Embroideries by Mary Mulari
and Rita Farro, design Arch

11⁄2"

1"

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