Perm and neutralise hair using basic techniques

NVQ2 HAIRDRESSING
NVQ2 HAIRDRESSING:
(including
Perm and neutralise African
hair using basicand Caribbean hair)
techniques

Prepare for perming and neutralising H12.2/H16.2

In this element you will be taken through the steps and information needed to ensure
you have the understanding to prepare your client fully for perming and neutralising
processes. Once you have prepared a client thoroughly in readiness for perming and
neutralising, you will realise that everything you do during preparation has an effect on
the subsequent perm and is very important to the perming and neutralising process.

What you will learn

• Questioning your client about contraindications and recording responses
• Hair tests for perming and neutralising
• When not to perm
• Seeking assistance about contraindications and test results
• Perming and neutralising products
• Preparing and protecting your client

Questioning your client about

contraindications and recording responses
Remember, a contraindication is something that prevents you carrying out the
treatment. It is vital that you ask your client if she suffers from any contraindications
to establish whether it is safe to carry out the perm. Perming lotion can irritate
sensitive or allergic skin and can be very painful if applied to skin with disorders such
as psoriasis.

It is important to record your client’s responses to the questions you ask about
contraindications in order to have proof that she was asked before the treatment in
case of any problems which may occur during or after the perm. A good way of
making sure that this is standard procedure in your salon is to have some standard
contraindication questions printed on your client’s record card, which can be ticked
when they have been asked. You should also ask your client to sign the record card to
validate that the questions were asked and their responses were accurately recorded.

Hair tests for perming and neutralising

You should always explain the importance of tests to your client so she is aware that
you are checking to see whether the hair can withstand the chemical process you are
going to carry out.

Elasticity test
This is to test the internal strength of the hair (the cortex). Hair that has been
damaged due to chemical treatments may have lost much of its natural strength. This
type of hair may stretch over two-thirds of its original length and may even break off.
The elasticity test
It is important to carry out this test before perming. Hair that is in good condition will
stretch and then return to its original length.

Take one strand of hair and hold each end firmly between the thumb and forefinger
of each hand and gently pull. If the hair stretches more than half of its original length
then it is over elastic and may snap or break during chemical processing.

Order this book online at www.heinemann.co.uk/snvq2hair

198
 Prepare for perming and neutralising hair NVQ2 HAIRDRESSING

Porosity test
This tests the condition of the outer layer of the hair shaft – the cuticle. If the cuticle
is damaged, it becomes porous. Perming chemicals added to porous hair will be
absorbed unevenly and may produce uneven curl results. This is why special perm
lotions for tinted and highlighted hair are used. They are weaker in strength and are
less likely to over process the hair and give a poor result.

Take a strand of hair and hold it by the points (where the hair has been cut) between
the thumb and forefinger of one hand. Run the forefinger and thumb of your other
hand from the root (where the hair grows from) down to the point. If the hair feels
rough and bumpy, the cuticle scales are raised and open and this is an indication of
porous hair. If the hair feels smooth, the cuticle is flat and closed and the hair’s
cuticle region is in good condition.
The porosity test
Incompatibility test
Some chemicals do not work well together (they are incompatible) and may have a
bad reaction if one is used over the top of another. Some colours, for example,
contain metallic salts, which are incompatible with other chemicals. You should
carry out an incompatibility test before perming if you are unsure of the colouring
products already on the hair or if the hair has a doubtful history.

• Mix together (preferably in a glass bowl) 40 ml of 20 volume hydrogen peroxide

and 2 ml of alkaline perm lotion.
• Place a small cutting of hair in the solution and wait. If heat is given off, the
lotion fizzes and the hair breaks, dissolves or changes colour, then this is a
positive reaction and the hair should NOT be permed or coloured with a product
containing hydrogen peroxide. The hair contains metallic salts.
The incompatibilty test
Pre-perm test curl
When handling fragile, porous hair or hair with a doubtful history, it is advisable to
wind, process and neutralise one or more small sections of hair. The results will be a
guide to the best rod size, processing time and lotion strength to use. This test will
also give a good indication of the condition after the perming process and will
determine whether the hair is suitable for this treatment.

It is not always suitable or possible to carry out a test curl on the head, so a cutting of
hair may be taken and tested separately, but remember, there will be no scalp heat to
help the processing.

• Wind two or three rods of your chosen size in the hair.

• Apply perm lotion suitable for hair condition and leave to process for the A pre-perm test curl
manufacturer’s specified time.
• Carry out a development test curl to see whether processing is sufficient. If so,
rinse, neutralise for the time specified by the manufacturer, remove rods and
evaluate curl result.

Development test curl

This test is carried out during the processing of the perm to check whether the
desired development has been reached. Always wear gloves to carry out this test.

• Hold perm rod and undo rubber fastener.

• Unwind the curler one and a half turns or until you see the start of the perm
paper, holding firmly.
• Push the hair up and then in towards the scalp, allowing it to relax into an ‘S’
shape movement. Be careful not to pull the hair as it is in a very fragile state. A pre-perm test curl tested separately
Order this book online at www.heinemann.co.uk/snvq2hair
199
 Perm and neutralise hair using basic techniques
NVQ2 HAIRDRESSING
NVQ2 HAIRDRESSING:
(including
Perm and neutralise African
hair using basicand Caribbean hair)
techniques

• When the size of the ‘S’ shape corresponds to the size of the curler, the
processing is complete and the hair should be rinsed with warm water to avoid
over processing and neutralised following manufacturer’s instructions.

Always take test curls on different areas of the head as one area may be ready before
another and this would cause an uneven curl result. The temperature of the salon
will make a difference. Perms will process quicker on warm days than on cold days.

Once you have carried out the necessary tests and you are satisfied with the results,
continue with the service.

A development test curl

When not to perm
• When the scalp is damaged or the skin broken/damaged. Reality check!
• When the hair is in poor condition.
• When the overall porosity of the hair is too high – over-bleached. Always test the hair to check that it
is safe to carry out perming.
• In the presence of metallic salts, for example, Grecian 2000.
• When the hair has poor elasticity.

Seeking assistance about contraindications

and test results
We have discussed contraindications and the hair tests that may be necessary before a
perm is carried out if you are doubtful about the hair or skin for any reason. Once
you have identified a contraindication or have a problem test result, you need to
know who you can ask for assistance from in your salon. It is important that this
person knows how to assess both contraindications and hair test results and will
normally be a more senior member of your salon team. If you are unsure what to do
when you have one of the listed problems, you can ask this colleague to help you
decide what action to take with your client.

Perming and neutralising products

Acid perm lotion
Acid perm lotion has been developed as a kinder alternative to the original alkaline
perm lotion. Fewer bonds are broken in the cortex of the hair by acid perms and they
are gentler to use on damaged hair or hair that processes very quickly (for example,
porous hair).

Acid perms have activators that are added to them immediately before use. They Acid perm lotion
rely on heat to open up the cuticle scales so that they can penetrate the cortex
region. They generally have an acid pH of 6–7 and are made of a chemical called
glycerol monothioglycollate.

Once an acid perm is mixed with its activator it only has a short life span and,
consequently, any remaining lotion should be discarded. This makes pre-perm testing
with acid perm lotions difficult, as you would not want to mix up a whole bottle of perm
lotion to test one small piece of hair – this would not be cost effective for the salon.

Alkaline perm lotion

Alkaline perm lotion is generally stronger than acid perm lotion and comes in different
strengths for different hair types. It has a pH of approximately 9.5, which opens up the
cuticle scales and allows the perm lotion to enter the cortex region of the hair. The
higher the pH of the perm lotion, the more damaging it is to the hair (see ‘Facts about
hair and skin’, page 19). ThisOrder
is why this book
alkaline online
perms have at www.heinemann.co.uk/snvq2hair
conditioning agents added to Alkaline perm lotion
200
 Prepare for perming and neutralising hair NVQ2 HAIRDRESSING

them and acid perms are becoming increasingly popular. The chemical ingredient in
alkaline perm lotion is ammonium thioglycollate.

Exothermic perms
Exothermic perms have the benefit of producing their own heat. Once the activator
has been mixed with the perm lotion, you will be able to feel the lotion getting warm
as you hold the bottle. Because they are self-heating, no added heat is necessary to
open the cuticle or help the perm during processing.

Exothermic perms are generally made for use on all types of hair; however, you may
need to leave them for less time on porous hair – always check the manufacturer’s
instructions. They can be a mixture of acid and alkaline or acid/alkaline depending
on the manufacturer. The only way to check is to look at the chemical ingredients on
the packaging and compare to the acid or alkaline perm chemical ingredients.

Dual action perm

These are used when perming African Caribbean hair and are more commonly used
as they are kinder on the hair than single action perms. The active chemical found in
most perm lotions for African Caribbean hair is ammonium thioglycollate. It is a two-
step process: first, the curly hair is chemically softened using an ammonium
thioglycollate cream to reduce the natural curl; secondly, a curl gel or winding lotion
(a weaker solution of ammonium thioglycollate) is applied and the hair wound
around perm rods and processed. This permanent treatment allows the hair to be
formed into new looser curls after neutralising has taken place. Curly perms produce
a tighter, more traditional curl, while a body perm will produce a softer wave or curl
for a more modern finish.

Single action perm

Check it out
Again, this perm uses the chemical ammonium thioglycollate, but only one
application of the perm lotion is applied and remains on the hair (during smoothing What are the active ingredients
and straightening and when the hair is wound around the perm rods) until processing used in African Caribbean perm
lotions? How do these differ from
is complete. Remember, you must always wear gloves when winding hair that has had
other perm lotions?
perm lotion applied to it.

Perm and curly perm lotions come ready to use in different strengths for different hair
types – see the chart on page 202.

Neutralisers
Reality check!
Neutralisers come in many different forms. Some are ready to use out of the bottle,
some need to be mixed with warm water, some need to be foamed up in a bowl and You should always recommend that
applied with a sponge, and some neutralisers are instant. The chemical ingredient in your client has her perm before
colouring treatment, as the
neutralisers may be either hydrogen peroxide or sodium bromate, both of which can
neutraliser is likely to fade or
lighten or fade hair colour. lighten the colour.
Most neutralisers used on African Caribbean perms usually contain sodium bromate
as this has a much gentler action on the hair than hydrogen peroxide. This is why the
neutralising process differs with African Caribbean hair, as the rods are left in the hair
throughout the neutralising process because the gentler action takes longer to process.
Sodium bromate also has less hair lightening properties than hydrogen peroxide.

Order this book online at www.heinemann.co.uk/snvq2hair

201
 Perm and neutralise hair using basic techniques
NVQ2 HAIRDRESSING
NVQ2 HAIRDRESSING:
(including
Perm and neutralise African
hair using basicand Caribbean hair)
techniques

Perm lotion Hair type Check it out

Find out about the perming
Normal Virgin hair that has not been treated with chemicals
products available in your salon.
Resistant White or greying hair, or very tight compact cuticle scales This will give you confidence when
having to choose a perm lotion for
Tinted Hair that has been treated with permanent colours your client’s particular hair type.
Keep this information in your
Bleached Bleached or high-lift tinted hair including highlights (perm with portfolio of evidence.
great care if at all)

Porous Dry, porous hair that has a poor cuticle area

(perm with great care if at all)
Curly perm lotion

Super Resistant hair

Regular Normal hair

Mild Porous/coloured hair

Suitability of perm lotions for different hair types

Preparing and protecting your client

It is vital to the wellbeing of your client that you follow your salon’s rules for
preparing and protecting your client during the perming and neutralising processes.
You must always consider the effects of the chemicals you are using and their
potential for harming your client. This will help you evaluate any risks and prevent
accidents happening.

Preparing the hair for perming

Begin by correctly gowning your client. Next, prepare the hair ready for perming by
shampooing, using a soapless base shampoo with no additives, to ensure no residue is
left on the hair as a barrier between the perm lotion and the hair.

When shampooing before a perm, use only cool/tepid water and do not massage
vigorously to avoid over stimulation of the scalp, as this can lead to sensitivity during
Reality check!
the chemical process. Some clients use a lot of styling
products that can leave white
Barrier cream deposits on the hair even after
shampooing. This build-up could
This is a thick protective cream that
cause a barrier between the perm
should be applied all the way around lotion and the hair and should be
the client’s hairline before applying removed with a lacquer-
perm lotion (including nape area) to removing/clarifying shampoo and
avoid irritation of the skin. Care then a second shampoo using TLS
must be taken to avoid putting the should be carried out.
cream on to the hair as this will
cause a barrier between the perm
lotion and the hair and will result in
straight areas. Clients with sensitive
skin will be more likely to have a
skin reaction from the perm lotion
so always take the utmost care to
avoid this happening. Applying barrier cream
Order this book online at www.heinemann.co.uk/snvq2hair
202
 Prepare for perming and neutralising hair NVQ2 HAIRDRESSING

In the salon
Jonny is a junior at Jake’s Hair Studio and is assisting soaked cotton wool and immediately soothes the
Gill with a perm on Mrs Thomas. Jonny is asked to affected areas with cool water while Jonny calls Charlie,
apply barrier cream and cotton wool before the perm the salon’s first aider.
lotion is applied. He absent-mindedly forgets the barrier
cream and only applies cotton wool around the hairline. Have a group discussion on the possible consequences
Later, Mrs Thomas complains of a sore neck and of this situation. Also discuss who is responsible for
forehead during processing and Gill discovers chemical Mrs Thomas’s hairline burns. What should be
burn marks all around her hairline. Gill removes the completed before Mrs Thomas leaves the salon?

Pre-perm treatments
Pre-perm treatments are applied to the hair after shampooing and before the perm
rods are used. They are used to:

• even out the porosity along the hair shaft to help the perm lotion absorb at an
even rate, which results in an even curl along the hair
• form a protective barrier along the cuticle region and close any cuticle scales that
are raised
• make the hair more pliable when winding the perm rods into the hair.

Pre-perm treatments come in either individual bottles or sprays and are applied to
shampooed, towel-dried hair.

Some companies make in-perm additives that are mixed with the perm lotion
immediately before application to the hair. These types of products contain oils,
which lubricate and strengthen the hair.

Order this book online at www.heinemann.co.uk/snvq2hair

203
 Perm and neutralise hair using basic techniques
NVQ2 HAIRDRESSING
NVQ2 HAIRDRESSING:
(including
Perm and neutralise African
hair using basicand Caribbean hair)
techniques

Preparing for
perming and
neutralising
Question 1your
lineclient
of textabout any
contraindications to perming and
neutralising and record her
responses.

Carry
Carryout
outany hair tests youchecking
a consultation feel are
necessary from your consultation.
for contra-indications (it is

Choose your
Ensure allperm lotion
products andand
neutraliser from the results
equipment are close to hand of
yourandconsultation.
hygienic.

Prepare your client

4 thoroughly
and make surelines
you prepare the
hair ready for perming
of by using
Applying pre-perm treatment the correct shampoo.
text Towel dry
the hair to remove excess water.
Post-perm conditioners
Special anti-oxidant surface conditioners are produced for use after perming. They Apply a pre-perm
4 treatment if
have special properties. necessary fromlines
the results of your
consultation.
of

Closes and smooths Apply barrier2cream

lines around the
the cuticle scales hairline before applying perm
of text
lotion and neutraliser to stop
hairline irritation.

Apply
Skinan anti-oxidant
analysis conditioner
to determine the
after neutralising
products to stop
to use (clean, dry the
face).
chemicals working any further
Anti-oxidant
conditioner
(always read the manufacturer’s
instructions to check if this is
recommended).

Stops the chemicals

working any further
(stops creeping
oxidation), which could Returns hair to its natural
cause over processing pH value (pH 4.5–5.5)

Order this book online at www.heinemann.co.uk/snvq2hair

204
 Perm and neutralise hair NVQ2 HAIRDRESSING

Perm and neutralise hair H12.3/H16.3

In this element you will be learning how to carry out a perm from the beginning right
through to the end, curled result.

Perming is one of the technical units of the NVQ, which requires you to practise in
order to improve your winding technique, correct placing of perm rods and timing.
Once you have practised and developed these areas, you will be ready to perm a
client’s hair, while remembering and putting into practice all that you have learned
from Elements H12.1 and H12.2.

Perming is one of the most rewarding hairdressing treatments, as you can achieve
dramatically different results on a client’s hair. For example, by perming, you can add
large, subtle curls to give root lift and support to styles, or you can turn long, straight
hair into tumbling, curled tresses. You can also completely change the shape of a
hairstyle by adding curls.

What you will learn

• Preparing the hair for perming
• Factors influencing the service Remember
• The perming procedure
• The neutralising procedure When shampooing before a perm,
• Coping with perming and neutralising problems use only cool/tepid water and do
not massage vigorously to avoid
over stimulation of the scalp.
Preparing the hair for perming This could open the skin’s pores
and hair follicles, which, when
Begin by correctly gowning your client (see page 166). Next, prepare the hair ready perm lotion is added, may cause
for perming by shampooing, using a soapless base shampoo, to ensure no residue is scalp irritation.
left on the hair, which could act as a barrier between the perm lotion and the hair.

Factors influencing the service

These are sometimes known as critical influencing factors and are anything that could
affect the perming process, for example, hair condition. They must be taken into account
for each individual client during the initial consultation before the perm is attempted.

You have already learned what needs to be assessed during a consultation for perming,
but how can you be sure that you understand the curl size the client requires? Only by
taking the time to discuss thoroughly the required results of the perm can you be certain
you have gathered all the necessary information. Often a client will come in with a style
book or picture of permed hair asking for the same result. You should explain that you
can do something similar, but the model in the picture may have more or thicker hair,
so the results will be slightly different.

Other critical influencing factors you need to take into account are:

• temperature of the salon • hair texture

• direction and size of the curl required • haircut
• hair condition • hair length
• previous chemical treatments • hair density.

Once you have considered the above, you will have the necessary information to
choose the correct strength perm lotion, correct size perm rods, correct winding
technique, application of perm lotion technique, and whether it is necessary to use
Order this book online at www.heinemann.co.uk/snvq2hair
added heat to aid processing.
205
 Perm and neutralise hair using basic techniques
NVQ2 HAIRDRESSING
NVQ2 HAIRDRESSING:
(including
Perm and neutralise African
hair using basicand Caribbean hair)
techniques

The perming procedure Remember

Sectioning and perm-winding techniques When perm winding, you are trying
There are three basic sectioning and perm-winding techniques that you need to to place straight perm rods onto a
master for your NVQ. They are: round head shape. This is not easy
and takes practice – sectioning the
• brick winding – this is done to avoid any partings resulting from the perm and is hair first will help.
ideal for fine hair
• directional winding – this is carried out when the hair needs perming in a specific
direction and is ideal for clients requiring a parting within the perm
• nine-section winding – this is the most commonly used perm wind when training
as it is easy to learn how to fit all the rods onto the head using this technique. It is
suitable for any hairstyle.

Step-by-step brick winding Now start the brick effect by Try to angle slightly the section of
Start at the front hairline taking a sectioning underneath the perm rod, hair to be wound, as this will help the
section of hair as wide as the perm in the centre, to stop a channel line straight rods fit into the rounded
rod but not longer than the rod (this appearing. Wind another perm rod shape of the head. Once all the hair is
will prevent ‘baggy’ ends) and wind to the other side and the brick wall wound, check the rods are
the scalp. effect will start to appear. comfortable for your client.

Directional perm winding

Apply barrier cream to the area just Apply a pre-perm treatment to the Using three curlers of various sizes,
below the hairline, taking care not to hair to protect any hair that has been process the hair and evaluate the
apply it to the hair. chemically treated. results.

Order this book online at www.heinemann.co.uk/snvq2hair

206
 Perm and neutralise hair NVQ2 HAIRDRESSING

Apply re-arranger to re-growth area Rinse thoroughly to remove the re- Allow the perm to process (following
only (if hair has been chemically arranger and towel dry the hair. manufacturer’s instructions)
treated). Apply to all the hair if not. Apply curl lotion (pre-damping) to the
Crosscheck to ensure an even areas that have been permed and
application. Allow to process. wind the curlers into the direction of
the required style.

Unwind a curler approximately one- Rinse thoroughly according to Remove curlers taking care not to
and-a-half turns and push the hair manufacturer’s instructions to remove overstretch the hair. Rinse thoroughly
forward towards the scalp allowing it the perm lotion. Remove excess water to remove all traces of neutraliser and
to relax into an ‘S’ shape. Test the hair by blotting dry using either a towel or apply conditioner. Apply after-care
in different areas. cotton wool. Apply neutraliser to each products to moisturise hair and
curler and allow to process according activate curls. Style as required.
to manufacturer’s instructions.

Nine-section perm winding

This involves dividing the hair into nine neat sections (see right) in readiness for perm
winding. You should copy this technique on a head of hair using a perm rod to
measure each section and checking that a perm rod will fit in each section across the
whole head. Once this is complete, you can start to wind each section. When
training, it is easier to start winding the perm rods from the nape area, beginning in
the central section and then winding left and right nape sections.

When sectioning, you need to follow the same principle as for roller setting by taking
the same size section as the length and width of the perm rod. The section of hair
should then be held at a 90 degree angle (straight out) from the head, the end paper
placed on the hair and, keeping good, even tension on the hair, use both hands to
wind the perm rod towards the scalp. Secure the perm rod close to the scalp by
placing the perm rubber securely over the end of the rod. Nine sections
Order this book online at www.heinemann.co.uk/snvq2hair
207
 Perm and neutralise hair using basic techniques
NVQ2 HAIRDRESSING
NVQ2 HAIRDRESSING:
(including
Perm and neutralise African
hair using basicand Caribbean hair)
techniques

Continue winding the centre crown section and then the left and right crown
sections. Lastly, wind the centre top section and then both left and right side sections.

It is important to check whether any of the perm rods are too tight as this can cause a
pull burn, which, if scratched, can become infected and result in folliculitis (see page
93). This can be done by visual checking and asking the client if any rods are pulling.

5 4 6
8 7 9 6 4 5

3 1 2

How to section

Correct method Incorrect method Book-end paper wrap

Placing a perm rod

Slide paper
down past
hair ends

Perm rods/curlers Applying end papers

should be at a 90°
angle from the head, Wrong curler
i.e. straight out position on scalp
End papers are specially designed
How to position perm rods correctly
absorbent papers, which make winding
easier and help to prevent fish hooks or
Application of perm lotion buckled ends
Protecting technique
This involves either applying pre-perm lotion to the hair to protect any porous areas
from over processing or applying barrier cream to protect the scalp and
hairline from any possible chemical burns from the perm lotion. Reality check!
After applying barrier cream and
Post-damping technique before applying perm lotion, always
This is where you apply perm lotion to hair that has been sectioned and wound remember to place a strip of cotton
around perm rods. When you are training and taking more than half an hour to wind wool securely around the client’s
a whole head of perm rods, this is the safest way of applying your perm lotion and will hairline. The cotton wool will stick
ensure that all areas of the head process evenly. to the barrier cream and will fully
protect the client from perm lotion
entering the eyes or running into
Pre-damping technique
the ears or down the face.
Pre-damping technique involves applying perm lotion to hair that is resistant before For your own protection, you must
sectioning or winding the perm rods. This technique is often used in salons where the always wear gloves to apply perm
stylist or perming technician is competent and able to wind a whole head of perm lotion to avoid the risk of dermatitis.
rods in a very short space of time. It is not recommended that you carry out a whole
Order this book online at www.heinemann.co.uk/snvq2hair
208
 Perm and neutralise hair NVQ2 HAIRDRESSING

head of pre-damping technique while you are learning to perm hair, as you will find
it takes longer to wind the whole head than it does for the perm to be processed. This
would result in an over-processed head of frizzy hair. Protective gloves should always
be worn when pre-damping.

When applying the perm lotion to the hair, always have a piece of cotton wool in your
other hand to remove any splashes. Keep the bottle close to the hair and always apply
to the top and bottom of each wound rod. Start your application at the most resistant
area and continue in a methodical manner until all the rods are covered. Be careful
not to overload the hair so that the perm lotion soaks your client. Once the application
is complete, remove the soiled cotton wool and replace with fresh cotton wool to avoid
hairline irritation and burning. Read the manufacturer’s instructions to see whether Remember
you need to cover the rods with a plastic cap whilst the perm is processing. A perm will process more quickly
in a warm salon (summer) than in
Monitoring curl development during processing a cold salon (winter).
Heat speeds the development of the perming process and should only be used if
advised by the manufacturer’s instructions.

There are two types of heat:

• body heat – trapped by a plastic cap which will retain heat lost from the head
• hairdryers and climazones – can be used to speed up the processing time (usually
by halving the time). Check the manufacturer’s instructions. Because these use dry
heat, you may need to use a plastic cap as well to prevent the perm lotion from
drying out and subsequently not processing (check manufacturer’s instructions).

The processing time is very important and can be monitored accurately by using a
timer. You must refer to the manufacturer’s instructions to work out the length of
processing time needed. This will also be dependent on the client’s hair type, texture
and condition. When it is necessary to check the development of the perm, carefully
unwind a couple of perm rods from different areas over the head. Be careful not to
disturb the curl too much as the hair is in a very fragile state. When the perm has
processed sufficiently, it will look ‘S’ shaped and resemble the size of the rod being Use a timer to ensure that
used when gently pushed towards the scalp (see page 199 for the development test). processing time is accurate

The neutralising procedure

Neutralising is a permanent process that re-joins the sulphur bonds into their new
curled position. If neutralising is not carried out correctly, the perm will be
unsuccessful and the client will be disappointed.

Preparing for neutralising

Always read the manufacturer’s instructions before beginning to neutralise hair. You
must comply with the Personal Protective Equipment at Work Regulations by wearing
an apron and gloves.

It is advisable to check the client’s gown and towels before beginning to neutralise in
case they need replacing.

Water temperature and flow

You must wear gloves when rinsing the perm lotion from the hair, so it is therefore
important that you keep checking with the client that the water temperature is
comfortable. It is easier to rinse the hair free of perm lotion if the water flow is not
too strong, as too great a flow will soak both you and the client. Always rinse with
warm water, as the scalp may be tender and the hair delicate. The hotter the water
Order this book online at www.heinemann.co.uk/snvq2hair
209
 Perm and neutralise hair using basic techniques
NVQ2 HAIRDRESSING
NVQ2 HAIRDRESSING:
(including
Perm and neutralise African
hair using basicand Caribbean hair)
techniques

the tighter the curl will become. The cooler the water, the looser the curl will
become.

Why rinse thoroughly?

It is vital to the success of the perm that you rinse all the perm lotion from the hair. If
any lotion is left in the hair, it will stop the sulphur bonds from re-forming fully and
will result in a looser curl than expected that could even drop to completely straight.

After rinsing for about five minutes, use a perm indicator towel to test for any residue
of perm lotion (the towel will change colour if any lotion is left). When you have
rinsed sufficiently to remove all traces of perm lotion, blot the hair gently with a
towel. This will allow you to sit the client up at the basin and apply a fresh strip of
cotton wool around the hairline for protection. Use a pad of cotton wool to further
blot any excess moisture from the hair, which could dilute the strength of the
neutraliser. You are now ready to apply the neutraliser.

Rinse the perm for at least five minutes

Applying neutraliser
After reading the manufacturer’s instructions, you will know whether to apply the
neutraliser straight from the bottle (the same technique as applying perm lotion) or if
it is necessary to tip the neutraliser into a bowl, foam up and apply to the hair using a
neutralising sponge.

Remember
Some neutralisers need mixing with
water before use. Always read the
manufacturer’s instructions. Apply
the neutraliser to each perm rod so
that you are confident all the rods
have been covered. If even one rod
is missed, it will result in a straight
section of hair, which will look very
obvious.
A neutralising sponge and bowl Applying neutraliser

Order this book online at www.heinemann.co.uk/snvq2hair

210
 Perm and neutralise hair NVQ2 HAIRDRESSING

Eye care when neutralising

Remember
If neutraliser sponges are too soaked, the product may drip down the client’s face and
go into her eyes. If this happens, you should rinse the eyes carefully with cold water Make sure you apply the neutraliser
and seek the help of a first aider. If there are further problems, advise the client to see with care to avoid any accidents.
her GP. You will need to fill in an accident report sheet. You will also need to notify
your salon manager and make a note on the client’s record card.

The importance of accurate timing

Once the first application of neutraliser is complete, you should start accurately
timing the development. This timing will be dependent upon the manufacturer’s
instructions but is usually about five minutes. Since this is when the chemicals in the
neutraliser (either hydrogen peroxide or sodium bromate) are re-joining the sulphur
bonds to their new partners, it is important the chemicals are given sufficient time to
function. If you rush the neutraliser, not all the bonds will re-join and the hair may
be left weak and straight looking. If the neutraliser is left on too long, this could result
in over processing the hair into a straight frizz.

Removing perm rods correctly

The removal of the perm rods is the
next step once the time for the first
application of neutraliser has elapsed.
You should then gently unwind each
perm rod removing the end paper as
you work. When all the rods have been
removed, apply a second application
of neutraliser to the hair paying
particular attention to the ends of the
hair, which may not have been fully
covered whilst wound around the
rod. This is a more common problem
when neutralising long hair. Once
again, timing is important and you
must be guided by the manufacturer’s
instructions.
Once all the rods have been removed,
Removing all neutraliser apply a second application of neutraliser
When the time for the second
application of neutraliser has elapsed,
rinse the neutraliser thoroughly from
the hair. Again, it is important to make
sure all traces of the neutraliser are Reality check!
removed as the chemical ingredients Never treat the hair vigorously at
may carry on working if left in the this stage of the process – this
hair. This is called creeping could weaken the curl result as the
oxidation and can affect the success bonds have only just re-formed into
of the perm. To avoid this their new shape.
happening, a surface conditioner
containing anti-oxidant properties
(herbal anti-oxy) is commonly Check it out
applied, gently massaged into the
hair and then removed by rinsing. What are the three functions of anti-
oxidant conditioners? (If you need a
reminder, look back at page 204.)
A successful perm
Order this book online at www.heinemann.co.uk/snvq2hair
211
 Perm and neutralise hair using basic techniques
NVQ2 HAIRDRESSING
NVQ2 HAIRDRESSING:
(including
Perm and neutralise African
hair using basicand Caribbean hair)
techniques

In the salon
Mrs Pearlman is a new client and has booked in for a the only other time she has seen this sort of perm result
perm with senior stylist Joy. During the consultation Joy was on a client with a full head of highly bleached hair.
asks what sort of colour Mrs Pearlman has on her hair. Mrs Pearlman explains that she used to have a full head
Mrs Pearlman tells her that it was a box colour from the bleach before she coloured over it a few weeks ago.
local chemist. Joy therefore chooses a perm for The hair is beyond repair and Mrs Pearlman is distraught.
coloured hair and proceeds with the perming process.
Discuss the following points with your colleagues:
The hair processes very quickly and once neutralising is
• Who was at fault, Mrs Pearlman for not disclosing
complete Joy starts to carefully remove the perm rods.
the fact she had previously bleached her hair or Joy
As the rods are removed some of Mrs Pearlman’s hair for not testing the hair?
starts to fall out as well. Joy is horrified and when all the • What could happen as a result of this unfortunate
rods are removed she can see that the condition of the situation?
hair is like fluffy cotton wool. After conditioning with anti- • What could Joy offer Mrs Pearlman to try to
oxy conditioner the hair is softer but still very damaged improve the condition of the hair?
and stretchy. Joy explains to Mrs Pearlman and says that • How could this situation have been avoided?

Coping with perming and neutralising problems

Perming problems
The chart below identifies the problems that might occur with perms and what action
you should take.

Problem Reason Action

Perm slow to take Cold salon temperature; wrong selection of perm Use added heat – dryer/climazone; re-damp with
lotion; lotion evaporated; insufficient lotion applied stronger lotion; re-damp with same lotion

Perm processing Hair too porous, allowing lotion to enter hair shaft Remove any extra heat; remove cap if used;
too quickly too quickly; hair too dry when lotion applied; rinse hair
very hot salon

Hair breakage Too much tension; lotion too strong for hair type; Use restructurant or deep penetrating conditioner
over processing

Rubber banding Wound too tight Use restructurant

marks

Hairline and Cuts, abrasions on scalp; cap and wool left around Rinse immediately using cool water
scalp irritation hairline; too much lotion applied

Fish hooks Hair ends buckled or bent during winding Remove by cutting

Frizziness Over processing; lotion too strong; rods too small Cut if possible; use restructurant or deep
penetrating conditioner

Uneven curl Lotion applied unevenly; rod tension uneven Re-perm if hair is in good condition
formation

Too tight curl Over processed; rod size too small Deep condition; assess hair condition for relaxing

Perming problems and how to deal with them

Order this book online at www.heinemann.co.uk/snvq2hair

212
 Perm and neutralise hair NVQ2 HAIRDRESSING
NVQ2 HAIRDRESSING: Perm and neutralise hair using basic techniques

Neutralising problems
The chart below identifies the problems that may arise with neutralising and what
action you should take.

Problem Reason Action

Frizziness Over processing Cut if possible

Uneven curl Neutraliser applied unevenly Use restructurant or deep penetrating conditioner; re-perm if hair in good
formation condition

Neutralising problems and how to deal with them

Your questions answered

How long do I have to complete my perm on assessment? Perming and
When post-damping (applying the perm lotion after winding the rods), you have 45
minutes to complete the winding only. If pre-damping, your wind should be neutralising
completed in 35 minutes to deem you commercially competent.
Carry out consultation.
Will I be asked questions on what the chemicals do to the hair when
I’m perming?
Yes, you need to fully understand what the perm lotion and neutraliser do to the hair Carry
Gownout up
consultation.
client.
when you are perming to be competent in this perming unit.
Apply permperm
Apply lotion and allow
lotion and to
Will perm winding get easier?
process. Check
allow development
to process.
Yes, it is like any new skill, it gets easier with a lot of hard practice. Remember,
practice makes perfect!
Rinse hair, using indicator
How many perms do I have to do on assessment? test papers.test
Check development.
papers.
You have to successfully complete at least three full-head perms on assessment.

Apply neutraliser,
Apply wait,
neutraliser thenthen
remove rods gently.
Test your knowledge
1 What personal protective equipment should you wear during the
perming and neutralising processes?

2 What perming information should be recorded on your client’s record

card?

3 Why is it important to keep your work area tidy during the perming
and neutralising processes?

4 Why is it important to minimise wastage of perming and neutralising

products?

5 Name two perming tests that should be carried out before perming.

6 Name a perming test carried out during the perming process.

7 State five critical influencing factors for perming.

Order this book online at www.heinemann.co.uk/snvq2hair

213
 Perm and neutralise hair using basic techniques
NVQ2 HAIRDRESSING
NVQ2 HAIRDRESSING:
(including
Perm and neutralise African
hair using basicand Caribbean hair)
techniques

8 State the three different types of perm lotion discussed in Element H12.2.

9 What two things are used to protect the client’s hairline during
perming?

10 Which three perm winds do you need to perfect for this qualification?

11 Why should you always check water temperature and flow during
rinsing of perm lotion and neutraliser?

12 What types of heat can be used to help the perm process?

13 Name two perm lotion application techniques.

14 Why is accurate timing important during the perming and neutralising

procedures?

15 How do you know how long the perm lotion should be processed for?

16 Why is it important to section accurately when winding a perm?

17 What result could perm rod rubbers positioned too tightly have?

18 State two reasons why you may achieve curls that are too tight.

19 How could you resolve the problem of a frizzy perm result?

20 How do perms work? Name the three stages of the perming process
and explain what happens at each stage.

21 Which perm process involves applying and removing a curl

re-arranger?

Order this book online at www.heinemann.co.uk/snvq2hair

214