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Title: The Little Tea Book

Author: Arthur Gray

Illustrator: George W. Hood

Release Date: September 27, 2006 [EBook #19392]

Language: English

*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE LITTLE TEA BOOK ***

Produced by Transcribed by Ruth Hart [email protected]

[Illustration: teajohnson]

THE LITTLE TEA BOOK

COMPILED BY
ARTHUR GRAY

Compiler of Over the Black Coffee

ILLUSTRATED BY GEORGE W. HOOD

[Illustration: tea01]

NEW YORK

THE BAKER & TAYLOR COMPANY

 33-37 EAST 17TH ST., UNION SQ. NORTH

COPYRIGHT, 1903, BY
THE BAKER & TAYLOR COMPANY

Published, October, 1903

The Crow Press, N.H.

Thou soft, thou

sober, sage, and
venerable liquid!
Thou innocent
pretence for bringing
the wicked of both
sexes together in the
morning! Thou
female tongue-
running, smile-
soothing, heart-
opening, wink-
tipping cordial to
whose glorious
insipidity I owe the
happiest moments of
my life.
--COLLEY
CIBBER.

INTRODUCING THE LITTLE TEA BOOK

After all, tea is the drink! Domestically and socially it is the beverage of the
world. There may be those who will come forward with their figures to prove
that other fruits of the soil--agriculturally and commercially--are more important.
Perhaps they are right when quoting statistics. But what other product can
compare with tea in the high regard in which it has always been held by writers
whose standing in literature, and recognized good taste in other walks, cannot be
questioned?

A glance through this book will show that the spirit of the tea beverage is one of
peace, comfort, and refinement. As these qualities are all associated with the
ways of women, it is to them, therefore--the real rulers of the world--that tea
owes its prestige and vogue.

Further peeps through these pages prove this to be true; for nearly all the
allusions and references to the beverage, by male writers, reveal the womanly
influence that tea imparts. But this is not all. The side-lights of history, customs,
manners, and modes of living which tea plays in the life of all nations will be
found entertaining and instructive. Linked with the fine feminine atmosphere
which pervades the drinking of the beverage everywhere, a leaf which can
combine so much deserves, at least, a little human hearing for its long list of
virtues; for its peaceful walks, talks, tales, tattle, frills, and fancies which go to
make up this tribute to "the cup that cheers but not inebriates."

THE ORIGIN OF TEA

Darma, third son of Koyuwo, King of India, a religions high priest from Siaka
(the author of that Eastern paganism about a thousand years before the Christian
era), coming to China, to teach the way of happiness, lived a most austere life,
passing his days in continual mortification, and retiring by night to solitudes, in
which he fed only upon the leaves of trees and other vegetable productions.
After several years passed in this manner, in fasting and watching, it happened
that, contrary to his vows, the pious Darma fell asleep! When he awoke, he was
so much enraged at himself, that, to prevent the offence to his vows for the
future, he got rid of his eyelids and placed them on the ground. On the following
day, returning to his accustomed devotions, he beheld, with amazement,
springing up from his eyelids, two small shrubs of an unusual appearance, such
as he had never before seen, and of whose qualities he was, of course, entirely
ignorant. The saint, however, not being wholly devoid of curiosity--or, perhaps,
being unusually hungry--was prompted to eat of the leaves, and immediately felt
within him a wonderful elevation of mind, and a vehement desire of divine
contemplation, with which he acquainted his disciples, who were eager to follow
the example of their instructor, and they readily received into common use the
fragrant plant which has been the theme of so many poetical and literary pens in
succeeding ages.

[Illustration: tea02]

TEA

By FRANCIS
SALTUS SALTUS

From what
enchanted Eden
came thy leaves
That hide such
subtle spirits of
perfume?
Did eyes
preadamite first see
the bloom,
Luscious nepenthe
of the soul that
grieves?

By thee the tired and

torpid mind
conceives
Fairer than roses
brightening life's
gloom,
Thy protean
charm can every
form assume
And turn December
nights to April eves.

Thy amber-tinted
 drops bring back to
me
Fantastic shapes
of great Mongolian
towers,
Emblazoned
banners, and the
booming gong;
I hear the sound of
feast and revelry,
And smell, far
sweeter than the
sweetest flowers,
The kiosks of
Pekin, fragrant of
Oolong!

LITTLE CUPS OF CHINESE AND JAPANESE TEA

Although the legend credits the pious East Indian with the discovery of tea, there
is no evidence extant that India is really the birthplace of the plant.

Since India has no record of date, or facts, on stone or tablet, or ever handed
down a single incident of song or story--apart from the legend--as to the origin
of tea, one is loath to accept the claim--if claim they assert--of a people who are
not above practising the "black art" at every turn of their fancy.

Certain it is that China, first in many things, knew tea as soon as any nation of
the world. The early Chinese were not only more progressive than other peoples,
but linked with their progress were important researches, and invaluable
discoveries, which the civilized world has long ago recognized. Then, why not
add tea to the list?

At any rate, it is easy to believe that the Chinese were first in the tea fields, and
that undoubtedly the plant was a native of both China and Japan when it was
slumbering on the slopes of India, unpicked, unsteeped, undrunk, unhonored,
and unsung.
A celebrated Buddhist, St. Dengyo Daishai, is credited with having introduced
tea into Japan from China as early as the fourth century. It is likely that he was
the first to teach the Japanese the use of the herb, for it had long been a favorite
beverage in the mountains of the Celestial Kingdom. The plant, however, is
found in so many parts of Japan that there can be little doubt but what it is
indigenous there as well.

The word TEA is of Chinese origin, being derived from the Amoy and Swatow
reading, "Tay," of the same character, which expresses both the ancient name of
tea, "T'su," and the more modern one, "Cha." Japanese tea, "Chiya"--pronounced
Châ.

Tea was not known in China before the Tang dynasty, 618-906 A.D. An infusion
of some kind of leaf, however, was used as early as the Chow dynasty, 1122-255
B.C., as we learn from the Urh-ya, a glossary of terms used in ancient history
and poetry. This work, which is classified by subjects, has been assigned as the
beginning of the Chow dynasty, but belongs more properly to the era of
Confucius, K'ung Kai, 551-479 B.C.

Although known in Japan for more than a thousand years, tea only gradually
became the national beverage as late as the fourteenth century.

In the first half of the eighth century, 729 A.D., there was a record made of a
religious festival, at which the forty-fifth Mikado---"Sublime Gate"--Shommei
Tenno, entertained the Buddhist priests with tea, a hitherto unknown beverage
from Corea, which country was for many years the high-road of Chinese culture
to Japan.

After the ninth century, 823 A.D., and for four centuries thereafter, tea fell into
disuse, and almost oblivion, among the Japanese. The nobility, and Buddhist
priests, however, continued to drink it as a luxury.

During the reign of the eighty-third Emperor, 1199-1210 A.D., the cultivation of
tea was permanently established in Japan. In 1200, the bonze, Yei-Sei, brought
tea seeds from China, which he planted on the mountains in one of the most
northern provinces. Yei-Sei is also credited with introducing the Chinese custom
of ceremonious tea-drinking. At any rate, he presented tea seeds to Mei-ki, the
abbot of the monastery of To-gano (to whom the use of tea had been
recommended for its stimulating properties), and instructed him in the mystery
of its cultivation, treatment, and preparation. Mei-ki, who laid out plantations
near Uzi, was successful as a pupil, and even now the tea-growers of that
neighborhood pay tribute to his memory by annually offering at his shrine the
first gathered tea-leaves.

After that period, the use of tea became more and more in fashion, the monks
and their kindred having discovered its property of keeping them awake during
long vigils and nocturnal prayers.

Prom this time on the development and progress of the plant are interwoven with
the histories and customs of these countries.

ON TEA

The following short

poem by Edmund
Waller
is believed to be the
first one written in
praise of
the "cup that does
not inebriate":

Venus her myrtle,

Phoebus has her
bays;
Tea both excels,
which she
vouchsafes to praise.
The best of Queens,
and best of herbs, we
owe
To that bold nation,
which the way did
show
To the fair region
where the sun doth
 rise,
Whose rich
productions we so
justly prize.
The Muse's friend,
tea does our fancy
aid,
Repress those vapors
which the head
invade,
And keep the palace
of the soul serene,
Tit on her birthday
to salute the Queen.

Waller was born in

1605, and died in
1687, aged
eighty-two.

SOME ENGLISH TEA HISTORY

Tea was brought into Europe by the DUTCH EAST INDIA COMPANY, in
1610. It was at least forty, and perhaps forty-seven, years later that England
woke up to the fascinations of the new drink. Dr. Johnson puts it at even a later
date, for he claims that tea was first introduced into England by Lords Arlington
and Ossory, in 1666, and really made its debut into society when the wives of
these noblemen gave it its vogue.

If Dr. Johnson's statement is intended to mean that nothing is anything until the
red seal of the select says, "Thus shall it be," he is right in the year he has
selected. If, on the other hand, the Doctor had in mind society at large, he is
"mixed in his dates," or leaves, for tea was drawn and drunk in London nine
years before that date.

Garway, the founder of Garraway's coffee house, claimed the honor of being first
to offer tea in leaf and drink for public sale, in 1657. It is pretty safe to fix the
entrance of tea into Europe even a few years ahead of his announcement, for
merchants in those days did not advertise their wares in advance.

However, this date is about the beginning of TEA TIME, for in the Mercurius
Politicius of September, 1658, appeared the following advertisement:

That excellent and

by all Physitians
approved China
drink, called by the
Chineans, Tcha, by
other nations, Tay, or
Tea, is sold at the
Sultana's Head, a
Copphee House, in
Sweetings Rents, by
the Royal Exchange,
London.

Like all new things, when they have fastened on to the public's favor, tea was on
everybody's lips and in everybody's mouth. It was lauded to the skies, and was
supposed to be good for all the ills of the flesh. It would cure colds and
consumption, clear the sight, remove lassitude, purify the liver, improve
digestion, create appetite, strengthen the memory, and cure fever and ague.

One panegyrist says, while never putting the patient in mind of his disease, it
cheers the heart, without disordering the head; strengthens the feet of the old,
and settles the heads of the young; cools the brain of the hard drinker, and warms
that of the sober student; relieves the sick, and makes the healthy better. Epicures
drink it for want of an appetite; bon vivants, to remove the effects of a surfeit of
wine; gluttons, as a remedy for indigestion; politicians, for the vertigo; doctors,
for drowsiness; prudes, for the vapors; wits, for the spleen; and beaux to improve
their complexions; summing up, by declaring tea to be a treat for the frugal, a
regale for the luxurious, a successful agent for the man of business, and a bracer
for the idle.

Poets and verse-makers joined the chorus in praise of tea, in Greek and Latin.
One poet pictures Hebe pouring the delightful cup for the goddesses, who,
finding it made their beauty brighter and their wit more brilliant, drank so deeply
as to disgust Jupiter, who had forgotten that he, himself,

"Drank tea that

happy morn,
When wise Minerva
of his brain was
born."

Laureant Tate, who wrote a poem on tea in two cantos, described a family jar
among the fair deities, because each desired to become the special patroness of
the ethereal drink destined to triumph over wine. Another versifier exalts it at the
expense of its would-be rival, coffee:

"In vain would

coffee boast an equal
good,
The crystal stream
transcends the
flowing mud,
Tea, even the ills
from coffee spring
repairs,
Disclaims its vices
and its virtues
shares."

Another despairing enthusiast exclaims:

"Hail, goddess of the

vegetable, hail!
To sing thy worth,
all words, all
numbers, fail!"

The new beverage did not have the field all to itself, however, for, while it was
generally admitted that

Tea was fixed, and

come to stay.
It could not drive
 good meat and drink
away.

Lovers of the old and conservative customs of the table were not anxious to try
the novelty. Others shied at it; some flirted with it, in tiny teaspoonfuls; others
openly defied and attacked it. Among the latter were a number of robust
versifiers and physicians.

"'Twas better for

each British virgin,
When on roast beef,
strong beer and
sturgeon,
Joyous to breakfast
they sat round,
Nor were ashamed
to eat a pound."

The fleshly school of doctors were only too happy to disagree with their brethren
respecting the merits and demerits of the new-fangled drink; and it is hard to say
which were most bitter, the friends or the foes of tea.

Maria Theresa's physician, Count Belchigen, attributed the discovery of a

number of new diseases to the debility born of daily tea-drinking. Dr. Paulli
denied that it had either taste or fragrance, owing its reputation entirely to the
peculiar vessels and water used by the Chinese, so that it was folly to partake of
it, unless tea-drinkers could supply themselves with pure water from the Vassie
and the fragrant tea-pots of Gnihing. This sagacious sophist and dogmatizer also
discovered that, among other evils, tea-drinking deprived its devotees of the
power of expectoration, and entailed sterility; wherefore he hoped Europeans
would thereafter keep to their natural beverages--wine and ale--and reject coffee,
chocolate, and tea, which were all equally bad for them.

In spite of the array of old-fashioned doctors, wits, and lovers of the pipe and
bottle, who opposed evil effects, sneered at the finely bred men of England being
turned into women, and grumbled at the stingy custom of calling for dish-water
after dinner, the custom of tea-drinking continued to grow. By 1689 the sale of
the leaf had increased sufficiently to make it politic to reduce the duty on it from
eight pence on the decoction to five shillings a pound on the leaf. The value of
tea at this time may be estimated from a customhouse report of the sale of a
quantity of divers sorts and qualities, the worst being equal to that "used in
coffee-houses for making single tea," which, being disposed of by "inch of
candle," fetched an average of twelve shillings a pound.

During the next three years the consumption of tea was greatly increased; but
very little seems to have been known about it by those who drank it--if we may
judge from the enlightenment received from a pamphlet, given gratis, "up one
flight of stairs, at the sign of the Anodyne Necklace, without Temple Bar." All it
tells us about tea is that it is the leaf of a little shoot growing plentifully in the
East Indies; that Bohea--called by the French "Bean Tea"--is best of a morning
with bread and butter, being of a more nourishing nature than the green which
may be used when a meal is not wanted. Three or four cups at a sitting are
enough; and a little milk or cream renders the beverage smoother and more
powerful in blunting the acid humors of the stomach.

The satirists believed that tea had a contrary effect upon the acid humors of the
mind, making the tea-table the arena for the display of the feminine capacity for
backbiting and scandal. Listen to Swift describe a lady enjoying her evening
cups of tea:

"Surrounded with
the noisy clans
Of prudes, coquettes
and harridans.
Now voices over
voices rise,
While each to be the
loudest vies;
They contradict,
affirm, dispute,
No single tongue
one moment mute;
All mad to speak,
and none to hearken,
They set the very
lapdog barking;
Their chattering
makes a louder din
 Than fish-wives o'er
a cup of gin;
Far less the rabble
roar and rail
When drunk with
sour election ale."

Even gentle Gay associated soft tea with the temper of women when he pictures
Doris and Melanthe abusing all their bosom friends, while--

"Through all the

room
From flowery tea
exhales a fragrant
fume."

But not all the women were tea-drinkers in those days. There was Madam Drake,
the proprietress of one of the three private carriages Manchester could boast.
Few men were as courageous as she in declaring against the tea-table when they
were but invited guests. Madam Drake did not hesitate to make it known when
she paid an afternoon's visit that she expected to be offered her customary
solace--a tankard of ale and a pipe of tobacco.

Another female opponent of tea was the Female Spectator, which declared the
use of the fluid to be not only expensive, but pernicious; the utter destruction of
all economy, the bane of good housewifery, and the source of all idleness.
Tradesmen especially suffered from the habit. They could not serve their
customers because their apprentices were absent during the busiest hours of the
day drumming up gossips for their mistresses' tea-tables.

This same censor says that the most temperate find themselves obliged to drink
wine freely after tea, or supplement their Bohea with rum and brandy, the bottle
and glass becoming as necessary to the tea-table as the slop-basin.

Although Jonas Hanway, the father of the umbrella, was successful in keeping
off water, he was not successful in keeping out tea. All he did accomplish in his
essay on the subject was to call forth a reply from Dr. Johnson, who, strange to
say, instead of vigorously defending his favorite tipple, rather excuses it as an
amiable weakness; confessing that tea is a barren superfluity, fit only to amuse
the idle, relax the studious, and dilute the meals of those who cannot take
exercise, and will not practise abstinence. His chief argument in tea's favor is
that it is drunk in no great quantity even by those who use it most, and as it
neither exhilarates the heart nor stimulates the palate, is, after all, but a nominal
entertainment, serving as a pretence for assembling people together, for
interrupting business, diversifying idleness; admitting that, perhaps, while
gratifying the taste, without nourishing the body, it is quite unsuited to the lower
classes.

It is a singular fact, too, that at that period there was no other really vigorous
defender of the beverage. All the best of the other writers did was to praise its
pleasing qualities, associations, and social attributes.

Still, tea grew in popular favor, privately and publicly. The custom had now
become so general that every wife looked upon the tea-pot, cups, and caddy to
be as much her right by marriage as the wedding-ring itself. Fine ladies enjoyed
the crowded public entertainments with tea below stairs and ventilators above.
Citizens, fortunate enough to have leaden roofs to their houses, took their tea and
their ease thereon. On Sundays, finding the country lanes leading to Kensington,
Hampstead, Highgate, Islington, and Stepney, "to be much pleasanter than the
paths of the gospel," the people flocked to those suburban resorts with their
wives and children, to take tea under the trees. In one of Coleman's plays, a
Spitalfield's dame defines the acme of elegance as:

"Drinking tea on
summer afternoons
At Bagnigge Wells
with china and gilt
spoons."

London was surrounded with tea-gardens, the most popular being Sadlier's
Wells, Merlin's Cave, Cromwell Gardens, Jenny's Whim, Cuper Gardens,
London Spa, and the White Conduit House, where they used to take in fifty
pounds on a Sunday afternoon for sixpenny tea-tickets.

One D'Archenholz was surprised by the elegance, beauty, and luxury of these
resorts, where, Steele said, they swallowed gallons of the juice of tea, while their
own dock leaves were trodden under foot.
The ending of the East India Company's monopoly of the trade, coupled with the
fact that the legislature recognized that tea had passed out of the catalogue of
luxuries into that of necessities, began a new era for the queen of drinks destined
to reign over all other beverages.

[Illustration: tea03]

O TEA!

In the drama of the

past
Thou art featured in
the cast;
(O Tea!)
And thou hast
played thy part
With never a change
of heart,
(O Tea!)
For 'mid all the ding
and dong
Waits a welcome--
soothing song,
For fragrant Hyson
and Oolong.
. . .
A song of peace,
through all the years,
Of fireside fancies,
devoid of fears,
Of mothers' talks
and mothers' lays,
Of grandmothers'
comforts--quiet
ways.
Of gossip, perhaps--
still and yet--
What of Johnson?
Would we forget
The pictured cup;
those merry times,
When round the
board, with ready
rhymes
Waller, Dryden, and
Addison--Young,
Grave Pope to Gay,
when Cowper sung?
Sydney Smith, too;
gentle Lamb brew,
Tennyson, Dickens,
Doctor Holmes
knew.
The cup that
cheered, those sober
souls,
And tiny tea-trays,
samovars, and
bowls.
. . .
So here's a toast to
the queen of plants,
The queen of plants-
-Bohea!
Good wife, ring for
your maiden aunts,
We'll all have cups
of tea.
--ARTHUR
GRAY.

TEA TERMS

JAPANESE
Ori-mono-châ . . .
Folded Tea
Giy-ôku-ro-châ . . .
Dew Drop Tea
Usu-châ . . . Light
Tea
Koi-châ . . . Dark
Tea
Tô-bi-dashi-châ . . .
Sifted Tea
Ban-châ . . .
Common Tea
Yu-Shiyutsu-châ . . .
Export Tea
Neri-châ . . . Brick
Tea
Koku-châ . . . Black
Tea
Ko-châ . . . Tea Dust
Broken Leaves
Riyoku-châ . . .
Green Tea

CHINESE

Bohea . . . "Happy
Establishment"
So called after
two ranges of hills,
Fu-Kien or Fo-Kien
Congou . . . Labor
Named so at
Amoy from the labor
in preparing it.
Sou chong . . . Small
Kind
Hyson . . .
Flourishing Spring
Pe-koe . . . White
Hair
So called because
only the youngest
leaves are gathered,
which still
have the delicate
down--white hair--
on the surface.
Pou-chong . . .
Folded Tea
So called at
Canton after the
manner of picking it.

Brick Tea--prepared
in Central China
from the commonest
sorts of tea, by
soaking the tea
refuse, such as
broken leaves, twigs,
and dust, in boiling
water and then
pressing them into
moulds. Used in
Siberia and
Mongolia, where it
also serves as a
medium of
exchange. The
Mongols place the
bricks, when testing
the quality, on the
head, and try to pull
downward over the
eyes. They reject the
brick as worthless if
it breaks or bends.
 [Illustration: tea04]

TEA LEAVES

BY JOHN ERNEST MCCANN

According to Henry Thomas Buckle, the author of "The History of Civilization

in England," who was the master of eighteen languages, and had a library of
22,000 volumes, with an income of $75,000 a year, at the age of twenty-nine, in
1850 (he died in 1860, at the age of thirty-nine), tea making and drinking were,
or are, what Wendell Phillips would call lost arts. He thought that, when it came
to brewing tea, the Chinese philosophers were not living in his vicinity. He
distinctly wrote that, until he showed her how, no woman of his acquaintance
could make a decent cup of tea. He insisted upon a warm cup, and even spoon,
and saucer. Not that Mr. Buckle ever sipped tea from a saucer. Of course, he was
right in insisting upon those above-mentioned things, for tea-things, like a tea-
party, should be in sympathy with the tea, not antagonistic to it. Still, not always;
for, on one memorable occasion, in the little town of Boston, the greatest tea-
party in history was anything but sympathetic. But let that pass.

Emperor Kien Lung wrote, 200 years or more ago, for the benefit of his children,
just before he left the Flowery Kingdom for a flowerier:

"Set a tea-pot over a slow fire; fill it with cold water; boil it long enough to turn
a lobster red; pour it on the quantity of tea in a porcelain vessel; allow it to
remain on the leaves until the vapor evaporates, then sip it slowly, and all your
sorrows will follow the vapor."

He says nothing about milk or sugar. But, to me, tea without sugar is poison, as it
is with milk. I can drink one cup of tea, or coffee, with sugar, but without milk,
and feel no ill effects; but if I put milk in either tea or coffee, I am as sick as a
defeated candidate for the Presidency. That little bit of fact is written as a hint to
many who are ill without knowing why they are, after drinking tea, or coffee,
with milk in it. I don't think that milk was ever intended for coffee or tea. Why
should it be? Who was the first to color tea and coffee with milk? It may have
been a mad prince, in the presence of his flatterers and imitators, to be odd; or
just to see if his flatterers would adopt the act.
The Russians sometimes put champagne in their tea; the Germans, beer; the
Irish, whiskey; the New Yorker, ice cream; the English, oysters, or clams, if in
season; the true Bostonian, rose leaves; and the Italian and Spaniard, onions and
garlic.

You all know one of the following lines, imperfectly. Scarcely one in one
hundred quotes them correctly. I never have quoted them as written, off-hand--
but lines run out of my head like schoolboys out of school,

"When the lessons

and tasks are all
ended,
And school for the
day is dismissed."

Here are the lines:

"Now stir the fire,

and close the
shutters fast;
Let fall the curtains;
wheel the sofa
round;
And while the
bubbling and loud-
hissing urn
Throws up a steamly
column, and the cups
That cheer, but not
inebriate, wait on
each,
To let us welcome
peaceful evening in."

Isn't that a picture? Not one superfluous word in it! Who knows its author, or
when it was written, or can quote the line before or after

"the cups
That cheer, but not
 inebriate"?

or in what poem the lines run down the ages? I tell you? Not I. I don't believe in
encouraging laziness. If I tell you, you will let it slip from your memory, like a
panic-stricken eel through the fingers of a panic-stricken schoolboy; but if you
hunt it up, it will be riveted to your memory, like a ballet, and one never forgets
when, where, how, why, and from whom, he receives that.

What a pity that, in Shakespeare's time, there was no tea-table! What a delightful
comedy he could, and would, have written around it, placing the scene in his
native Stratford! What a charming hostess at a tea-table his mother, Mary Arden
(loveliest of womanly names), would have made! Any of the ladies of the
delightful "Cranford" wouldn't be a circumstance to a tea-table scene in a
Warwickshire comedy, with lovely Mary Arden Shakespeare as the protagonist,
if the comedy were from the pen of her delightful boy, Will. Had tea been known
in Shakespeare's time, how much more closely he would have brought his sexes,
under one roof, instead of sending the more animal of the two off to The Boar's
Head and The Mermaid, leaving the ladies to their own verbal devices.

Shakespeare, being such a delicate, as well as virile, poet, would have taken to
tea as naturally as a bee takes to a rose or honeysuckle; for the very word "tea"
suggests all that is fragrant, and clean, and spotless: linen, silver, china, toast,
butter, a charming room with charming women, charmingly gowned, and peach
and plum and apple trees, with the scent of roses, just beyond the open, half-
curtained windows, looking down upon, or over, orchard or garden, as the May
or June morning breezes suggest eternal youth, as they fill the room with
perfume, tenderness, love, optimism, and hope in immortality. Coffee suggests
taverns, cafés, sailing vessels, yachts, boarding-houses-by-the-river-side, and
pessimism. Tea suggests optimism. Coffee is a tonic; tea, a comfort. Coffee is
prose; tea is poetry. Whoever thinks of taking coffee into a sick-room? Who
doesn't think of taking in the comforting cup of tea? Can the most vivid
imagination picture the angels (above the stars) drinking coffee? No. Yet, if I
were to show them to you over the teacups, you would not be surprised or
shocked. Would you? Not a bit of it. You would say:

"That's a very pretty picture. Pray, what are they talking about, or of whom are
they talking?"

Why, of their loved ones below, and of the days of their coming above the stars.
They know when to look for us, and while the time may seem long to us before
the celestial reunion, to them it is short. They do not worry, as we do. We could
not match their beautiful serenity if we tried, for they know the folly of wishing
to break or change divine laws.

What delightful scandals have been born at tea-tables--rose and lavender, and old
point lace scandals: surely, no brutal scandals or treasons, as in the tavern. Tea-
table gossip surely never seriously hurt a reputation. Well, name one. No? Well,
think of the shattered reputations that have fallen around the bottle. Men are the
worst gossips unhanged, not women.

In 1652, tea sold for as high as £10 in the leaf. Pepys had his first cup of tea in
September, 1660. (See his Diary.) The rare recipe for making tea in those days
was known only to the elect, and here it is:

"To a pint of tea, add the yolks of two fresh eggs; then beat them up with as
much fine sugar as is sufficient to sweeten the tea, and stir well together. The
water must remain no longer upon the tea than while you can chant the Miserere
psalm in a leisurely fashion."

But I am not indorsing recipes of 250 odd years ago. The above is from the
knowledge box of a Chinese priest, or a priest from China, called Père Couplet
(don't print it Quatrain), in 1667. He gave it to the Earl of Clarendon, and I
extend it to you, if you wish to try it.

John Milton knew the delights of tea. He drank coffee during the composition of
"Paradise Lost," and tea during the building of "Paradise Regained."

Like all good things, animate and inanimate, tea did not become popular without
a struggle. It, like the gradual oak, met with many kinds of opposition, from the
timid, the prejudiced, and the selfish. All sorts of herbs were put upon the market
to offset its popularity; such as onions, sage, marjoram, the Arctic bramble, the
sloe, goat-weed, Mexican goosefoot, speedwell, wild geranium, veronica,
wormwood, juniper, saffron, carduus benedictus, trefoil, wood-sorrel, pepper,
mace, scurry grass, plantain, and betony.

Sir Hans Sloane invented herb tea, and Captain Cook's companion, Dr. Solander,
invented another tea, but it was no use--tea had come to stay, and a blessing it
has been to the world, when moderately used. You don't want to become a tea
drunkard, like Dr. Johnson, nor a coffee fiend, like Balzac. Be moderate in all
things, and you are bound to be happy and live long. Moderation in eating,
drinking, loving, hating, smoking, talking, acting, fighting, sleeping, walking,
lending, borrowing, reading newspapers--in expressing opinions--even in
bathing and praying--means long life and happiness.

WIT, WISDOM, AND HUMOR OF TEA

Tea tempers the spirits and harmonizes the mind, dispels lassitude and relieves
fatigue, awakens thought and prevents drowsiness, lightens or refreshes the
body, and clears the perceptive faculties.--CONFUCIUS.

Thank God for tea! What would the world do without tea?--how did it exist? I
am glad I was not born before tea.--SYDNEY SMITH.

"Sammy," whispered Mr. Weller, "if some o' these here people don't want tappin'
to-morrow mornin', I ain't your father, and that's wot it is. Why this here old lady
next me is a drown-in' herself in tea."

"Be quiet, can't you?" murmured Sam.

"Sam," whispered Mr. Weller, a moment afterward, in a tone of deep agitation,

"mark my words, my boy; if that 'ere secretary feller keeps on for five minutes
more, he'll blow himself up with toast and water."

"Well, let him if he likes," replied Sam; "it ain't no bis'ness of yourn."

"If this here lasts much longer, Sammy," said Mr. Weller, in the same low voice,
"I shall feel it my duty as a human bein' to rise and address the cheer. There's a
young 'ooman on the next form but two, as has drank nine breakfast cups and a
half; and she's a swellin' wisibly before my wery eyes."--Pickwick Papers.

Books upon books have been published in relation to the evil effects of tea-
drinking, but, for all that, no statistics are at hand to show that their arguments
have made teetotalers of tea-drinkers. One of the best things, however, said
against tea-drinking is distinctly in its favor to a certain extent. It is from one Dr.
Paulli, who laments that "tea so dries the bodies of the Chinese that they can
hardly spit." This will find few sympathizers among us. We suggest the
quotation to some enterprising tea-dealer to be used in a street-car advertisement.
Of all methods of making tea, that hit upon by Heine's Italian landlord was
perhaps the most economical. Heine lodged in a house at Lucca, the first floor of
which was occupied by an English family. The latter complained of the cookery
of Italy in general, and their landlord's in particular. Heine declared the landlord
brewed the best tea ho had ever tasted in the country, and to convince his
doubtful English friends, invited them to take tea with him and his brother. The
invitation was accepted. Tea-time came, but no tea. When the poet's patience
was exhausted, his brother went to the kitchen to expedite matters. There he
found his landlord, who, in blissful ignorance of what company the Heines had
invited, cried: "You can get no tea, for the family on the first floor have not taken
tea this evening."

The tea that had delighted Heine was made from the used leaves of the English
party, who found and made their own tea, and thus afforded the landlord an
opportunity of obtaining at once praise and profit by this Italian method of
serving a pot of tea.--Chambers's Journal.

[Illustration: tea05]

FATE

Matrons who toss

the cup, and see
The grounds of Fate
in grounds of tea.
--Churchill.

TEA MAKING AND TAKING IN JAPAN AND CHINA

The queen of teas in Japan is a fine straw-colored beverage, delicate and subtle
in flavor, and as invigorating as a glass of champagne. It is real Japan tea, and
seldom leaves its native heath for the reason that, while it is peculiarly adaptable
to the Japanese constitution, it is too stimulating for the finely-tuned and over-
sensitive Americans, who, by the way, are said to be the largest customers for
Japan teas of other grades in the world.
This particular tea, which looks as harmless as our own importations of the leaf,
is a very insidious beverage, as an American lady soon found out after taking
some of it late at night. She declared, after drinking a small cup before retiring,
she did not close her eyes in sleep for a week. We do not know the name of the
brand of tea, and are glad of it; for we live in a section where the women are
especially curious.

But the drink of the people at large in Japan is green tea, although powdered tea
is also used, but reserved for special functions and ceremonial occasions. Tea,
over there, is not made by infusing the leaves with boiling water, as is the case
with us; but the boiling water is first carefully cooled in another vessel to 176
degrees Fahrenheit. The leaves are also renewed for every infusion. It would be
crime against his August Majesty, the Palate, to use the same leaves more than
once--in Japan. The preparation of good tea is regarded by the Japs as the height
of social art, and for that reason it is an important element in the domestic,
diplomatic, political, and general life of the country.

Tea is the beverage--the masterpiece--of every meal, even if it be nothing but

boiled rice. Every artisan and laborer, going to work, carries with him his rice-
box of lacquered wood, a kettle, a tea-caddy, a tea-pot, a cup, and his chop-
sticks. Milk and sugar are generally eschewed. The Japs and the Chinese never
indulge in either of these ingredients in tea; the use of which, they claim, spoils
the delicate aroma.

From the highest court circles down to the lowliest and poorest of the Emperor's
subjects, it is the custom in both Japan and China to offer tea to every visitor
upon his arrival. Not to do this would be an unpardonable breach of national
manners. Even in the shops, the customer is regaled with a soothing cup before
the goods are displayed to him. This does not, however, impose any obligation
on the prospective purchaser, but it is, nevertheless, a good stimulant to part with
his money. This appears to be a very ancient tradition in China and Japan--so
ancient that it is continued by the powers that be in Paradise and Hades,
according to a translation called "Strange Stories from My Small Library," a
classical Chinese work published in 1679.

The old domestic etiquette of Japan never intrusted to a servant the making of
tea for a guest. It was made by the master of the house himself; the custom
probably growing out of the innate politeness and courtesy of a people who
believe that an honored visitor is entitled to the best entertainment possible to
give him.

As soon as a guest is seated upon his mat, a small tray is set before the master of
the house. Upon this tray is a tiny tea-pot with a handle at right angles to the
spout. Other parts of this outfit include a highly artistic tea-kettle filled with hot
water, and a requisite number of small cups, set in metal or bamboo trays. These
trays are used for handing the cups around, but the guest is not expected to take
one. The cups being without handles, and not easy to hold, the visitor must
therefore be careful lest he let one slip through his untutored fingers.

The tea-pot is drenched with hot water before the tea is put in; then more hot
water is poured over the leaves, and soon poured off into the cups. This is
repeated several times, but the hot water is never allowed to stand on the
grounds over a minute.

The Japanese all adhere to the general household custom of the country in
keeping the necessary tea apparatus in readiness. In the living-room of every
house is contained a brazier with live coals, a kettle to boil water, a tray with tea-
pot, cups, and a tea-caddy.

Their neighbors, the Chinese, are just as alert; for no matter what hour of the day
it may be, they always keep a kettle of boiling water over the hot coals, ready to
make and serve the beverage at a moment's notice. No visitor is allowed to leave
without being offered a cup of their tea, and they themselves are glad to share in
their own hospitality.

The Chinese use boiling water, and pour it upon the dry tea in each cup. Among
the better social element is used a cup shaped like a small bowl, with a saucer a
little less in diameter than the top of the bowl. This saucer also serves another
purpose, and is often used for a cover when the tea is making. After the boiling
water is poured upon the tea, it is covered for a couple of minutes, until the
leaves have separated and fallen to the bottom of the cup. This process renders
the tea clear, delightfully fragrant, and appetizing.

A variety of other cups are also used; the most prominent being without handles,
one or two sizes larger than the Japanese. They are made of the finest china, set
in silver trays beautifully wrought, ornate in treatment and design.

A complete tea outfit is a part of the outfitting of every Ju-bako-- "picnic-box"--

with which every Jap is provided when on a journey, making an excursion, or
attending a picnic. The Japanese are very much given to these out-of-door
affairs, which they call Hanami--"Looking at the flowers." No wonder they are
fond of these pleasures, for it is a land of lovely landscapes and heaven-sent airs,
completely in harmony with the poetic and artistic natures of this splendid
people.

Tea-houses--Châ ya--which take the place of our cafes and bar rooms, but
which, nevertheless, serve a far higher social purpose, are everywhere in
evidence, on the high-roads and by-roads, tucked away in templed groves and
public resorts of every nature.

Among the Japanese are a number of ceremonial, social, and literary tea-parties
which reflect their courtly and chivalrous spirit, and keep alive the traditions of
the people more, perhaps, than any other of their functions.

The most important of these tea-parties are exclusively for gentlemen, and their
forms and ceremonies rank among the most refined usages of polite society. The
customs of these gatherings are so peculiarly characteristic of the Japanese that
few foreign observers have an opportunity of attending them. These are the tea-
parties of a semi-literary or aesthetic character, and the ceremonious Châ-no-ya.
In the first prevails the easy and unaffected tone of the well-bred gentleman. In
the other are observed the strictest rules of etiquette both in speech and behavior.
But the former entertainment is by far the most interesting. The Japanese love
and taste for fine scenery is shown in the settings and surroundings. To this
picturesque outlook, recitals of romance and impromptu poetry add intellectual
charm to the tea-party.

For these occasions the host selects a tea-house located in well-laid-out grounds
and commanding a fine view. In this he lays mats equal to the number of guests.
By sliding the partition and removing the front wall the place is transformed into
an open hall overlooking the landscape. The room is filled with choice flowers,
and the art treasures of the host, which at other times are stored away in the fire-
proof vault--"go down"--of his private residence, contribute artistic beauty and
decoration to the scene. Folding screens and hanging pictures painted by
celebrated artists, costly lacquer-ware, bronze, china, and other heirlooms are
tastefully distributed about the room.

Stories told at these tea-parties are called by the Japanese names of Châ-banashi,
meaning tea-stories, or Hiti-Kuchá--"one mouth stories," short stories told at one
sitting. At times professional story-tellers are employed. Of these there are two
kinds: Story-Tellers and "Cross-Road Tradition Narrators," both of whom since
olden times have been the faithful custodians and disseminators of native folk-
lore and tales.

These professionals are divided into a number of classes, the most important
being the Hanashi-Ka, members of a celebrated company under a well-known
manager, who unites them into troops of never less than five or more than seven
in number. Such companies are often advertised weeks before their arrival in a
place by hoisting flags or streamers with the names of the performers thereon.
Their programme consists of war-stories, traditions, and recitals with musical
accompaniment. During the intermission, feats of legerdemain or wrestling fill in
the time and give variety to the entertainment.

These are the leading professional performers. The other classes, while not held
in as high regard by the select, nevertheless have a definite place in Japanese
amusement circles. One of the latter is the Tsuji-kô-shâku-ji. This word-
swallower does not belong to any company, but is a "free-lance" entertainer. A
sort of "has been," he does not, however, rest on his past laurels, but continues to
perform whenever he can obtain an audience--on the highways, to passers-by, in
public resorts and thoroughfares.

Although the Chinese are not so neat in their public habits as the Japs, still their
tea-houses and similar resorts are just as numerous and popular as they are in the
neighboring country. Perhaps the most interesting caterers in China, however,
are the coolies, who sell hot water in the rural districts. These itinerants have an
ingenious way of announcing their coming by a whistling kettle. This vessel
contains a compartment for fire with a funnel going through the top. A coin with
a hole is placed so that when the water is boiling a regular steam-whistle is
heard.

Plentiful as tea is in China, however, the poor people there do not consume as
good a quality of the leaf as the same class in our own country.

Especially is this the case in the northern part of China, where most of the
inhabitants just live, and that is all. There they are obliged to use the last
pickings of tea, commonly known as "brick tea," which is very poor and coarse
in quality. It is pressed into bricks about eight by twelve inches in size, and
whenever a quantity of it is needed a piece is knocked off and pulverized in a
kettle of boiling water. Other ingredients, consisting of suit, milk, butter, a little
pepper, and vinegar, are added, and this combination constitutes the entire meal
of the family.

Tea in China and Japan is the stand-by of every meal--the never-failing and ever-
ready refreshment. Besides being the courteous offering to the visitor, it serves a
high purpose in the home life of these peoples; uniting the family and friends in
their domestic life and pleasures at all times and seasons. At home round the
brazier and the lamp in winter evenings, at picnic parties and excursions to the
shady glen during the fine season, tea is the social connecting medium, the
intellectual stimulant and the universal drink of these far-and-away peoples.
 [Illustration: tea06]

TEA-DRINKING IN OTHER LANDS

While tea-drinking outside of Japan and China is not attended with any "high-
days and holidays," still there are countries where it is just as important element
of the daily life of its people as it is in the Land of the Rising Sun.

Among the Burmese a newly-married couple, to insure a happy life, exchange a

mixture of tea-leaves steeped in oil.

In Bokhara, every man carries a small bag of tea about with him. When he is
thirsty he hands a certain quantity over to the booth-keeper, who makes the
beverage for him. The Bokhariot, who is a confirmed tea-slave, finds it just as
hard to pass a tea-booth without indulging in the herb as our own inebriates do to
go by a corner cafe. His breakfast beverage is Schitschaj --tea in which bread is
soaked and flavored with milk, cream, or mutton fat. During the daytime he
drinks green tea with cakes of flour and mutton suet. It is considered a gross
breach of manners to cool the hot tea by blowing the breath. This is overcome by
supporting the right elbow in the left hand and giving an easy, graceful, circular
movement to the cup. The time it takes for each kind of tea to draw is calculated
to a second. When the can is emptied it is passed around among the company for
each tea-drinker to take up as many leaves as can be held between the thumb and
finger; the leaves being considered a special dainty.

An English traveller once journeying through Asiatic Russia was obliged to

claim the hospitality of a family of Buratsky Arabs. At mealtime the mistress of
the tent placed a large kettle on the fire, wiped it carefully with a horse's tail,
filled it with water, threw in some coarse tea and a little salt. When this was
nearly boiled she stirred the mixture with a brass ladle until the liquor became
very brown, when she poured it into another vessel. Cleaning the kettle as
before, the woman set it again on the fire to fry a paste of meal and fresh butter.
Upon this she poured the tea and some thick cream, stirred it, and after a time the
whole. Was taken off the fire and set aside to cool. Half-pint mugs were handed
around and the tea ladled into them: the result, a pasty tea forming meat and
drink, satisfying both hunger and thirst.
M. Vámbéry says: "The picture of a newly encamped caravan in the summer
months, on the steppes of Central Asia, is a truly interesting one. While the
camels in the distance, but still in sight, graze greedily, or crush the juicy thistles,
the travellers, even to the poorest among them, sit with their tea-cups in their
hands and eagerly sip the costly beverage. It is nothing more than a greenish
warm water, innocent of sugar, and often decidedly turbid; still, human art has
discovered no food, invented no nectar, which is so grateful, so refreshing, in the
desert as this unpretending drink. I have still a vivid recollection of its wonderful
effects. As I sipped the first drops, a soft fire filled my veins, a fire which
enlivened without intoxicating. The later draughts affected both heart and head;
the eye became peculiarly bright and began to glow. In such moments I felt an
indescribable rapture and sense of comfort. My companions sunk in sleep; I
could keep myself awake and dream with open eyes!"

Tea is the national drink of Russia, and as indispensable an ingredient of the

table there as bread or meat. It is taken at all hours of the day and night, and in
all the griefs of the Russian he flies to tea and vodka for mental refuge and
consolation. Tea is drunk out of tumblers in Russia. In the homes of the wealthy
these tumblers are held in silver holders like the sockets that hold our soda-water
glasses. These holders are decorated, of course, with the Russian idea of art.

In every Russian town tea-houses flourish. In these public resorts a large glass of
tea with plenty of sugar in it is served at what would cost, in our money, about
two cents. Tea with lemon is so general that milk with the drink, over there, is
considered a fad.

The Russians seem to like beverages that bite--set the teeth on edge, as it were.

The poor in Russia take a lump of sugar in their mouths and let the tea trickle
through it. Travelling tea-peddlers, equipped with kettles wrapped up in towels
to preserve the heat, and a row of glasses in leather pockets, furnish a glass of
hot tea at any hour of the day or night.

The Russian samovar--from the Greek "to boil itself"--is a graceful dome-topped
brass urn with a cylinder two or three inches in diameter passing through it from
top to bottom. The cylinder is filled with live coals, and keeps the water boiling
hot. The Russian tea-pots are porcelain or earthen. Hot water to heat the pot is
first put in and then poured out; dry tea is then put in, boiling water poured over
it; after which the pot is placed on top of the samovar.
We all know about tea-drinking in England. It is not a very picturesque or
interesting occasion, at best. To the traditional Englishman's mind it means
simply a quiet evening at home, attended by the papers, and serious
conversations in which the head of the house deals out political and domestic
wisdom until ten o'clock. During the day, tea-taking begins with breakfast and
rounds up on the fashionable thoroughfares in the afternoon. Here one may see
the Britishers at their best and worst. These places are called "tea-shops," and in
them one may acquire the latest hand-shake, the freshest tea and gossip, see the
newest modes and millinery, meet and greet the whirl of the world. An
interesting study of types, in contrasts and conditions of society, worth the price
of a whole chest of choice tea.

We are pretty prosaic tea-drinkers in America. Is it because there is not enough

"touch and go" about the drink, or that we are too busy to settle down to the
quiet, comfort, and thoughtful tea-ways of our contemporaries? Wait until a few
things are settled; when our kitchen queens do not leave us in the "gray of the
morning," and all of our daughters have obtained diplomas in the art and science
of gastronomy.

However made or taken, tea at best or worst is a glorious drink. As a stimulant

for the tired traveller and weary worker it is unique in its restful, retiring,
soothing, and caressing qualities.

THE TEA-TABLE

Tho' all unknown to

Greek and Roman
song,
The paler hyson and
the dark souchong,
Tho' black nor green
the warbled praises
share
Of knightly
troubadour or gay
trouvère,
Yet deem not thou,
an alien quite to
numbers,
That friend to prattle
and that foe to
slumbers,
Which Kian-Long,
imperial poet,
praised
So high that, cent
per cent, its price
was raised;
Which Pope himself
would sometimes
condescend
To place
commodious at a
couplet's end;
Which the sweet
Bard of Olney did
not spurn,
Who loved the
music of the "hissing
urn."
. . .
For the dear
comforts of domestic
tea
Are sung too well to
stand in need of me
By Cowper and the
Bard of Rimini;
Besides, I hold it as
a special grace
When such a theme
is old and
commonplace.
The cheering lustre
of the new-stirr'd
fire,
The mother's
summons to the
dozing sire,
The whispers
audible that oft
intrude
On the forced
silence of the
younger brood,
The seniors'
converse, seldom
over new,
Where quiet dwells
and strange events
are few,
The blooming
daughter's ever-
ready smile,
So full of meaning
and so void of guile.
And all the little
mighty things that
cheer
The closing day
from quiet year to
year,
I leave to those
whom benignant fate
Or merit destines to
the wedded state.
. . .
'Tis woman still that
makes or mars the
man.
And so it is, the
creature can beguile
The fairest faces of
the readiest smile.
The third who comes
the hyson to inhale,
If not a man, at least
appears a male.
. . .
Last of the rout, and
dogg'd with public
cares,
The politician
stumbles up the
stairs;
Whose dusky soul
nor beauty can
illume,
Nor wine dispel his
patriotic gloom.
In restless ire from
guest to guest he
goes,
And names us all
among our country's
foes;
Swears 'tis a shame
that we should drink
our tea,
'Till wrongs are
righted and the
nation free,
That priests and
poets are a venal
race,
Who preach for
patronage and rhyme
for place;
Declares that boys
and girls should not
be cooing.
When England's
hope is bankruptcy
and ruin;
 That wiser 'twere the
coming wrath to fly,
And that old women
should make haste to
die.

Condensed from a
poem published in
Fraser's Magazine,
January, 1857, and
ascribed to Hartley
Coleridge.

LADIES, LITERATURE, AND TEA

In spite of the fact that coffee is just as important a beverage as tea, tea has been
sipped more in literature.

Tea is certainly as much of a social drink as coffee, and more of a domestic, for
the reason that the teacup hours are the family hours. As these are the hours
when the sexes are thrown together, and as most of the poetry and philosophy of
tea-drinking teem with female virtues, vanities, and whimsicalities, the inference
is that, without women, tea would be nothing, and without tea, women would be
stale, flat, and uninteresting. With them it is a polite, purring, soft, gentle, kind,
sympathetic, delicious beverage.

In support of this theory, notice what Pope, Gay, Crabbe, Cowper, Dryden, and
others have written on the subject.

"The tea-cup times

of hood and hoop,
And when the patch
was worn"

--wrote Tennyson of the early half of the seventeenth century.

What a suggestive couplet, full of the foibles and follies of the times! A picture a
la mode of the period when fair dames made their red cheeks cute with eccentric
patches. Ornamented with high coiffures, powdered hair, robed in satin
petticoats and square-cut bodices, they blossomed, according to the old
engravings, into most fetching figures. Even the beaux of the day affected
feminine frills in their many-colored, bell-skirted waistcoats, lace ruffles,
patches, and powdered queues.

Dryden must have succumbed to the charms of women through tea, when he
wrote:

"And thou, great

Anna, whom three
realms obey,
Dost sometimes take
counsel, and
sometimes tay."

From the great vogue which tea started grew a taste for china; the more peculiar
and striking the design, the more valuable the tea-set.

Pope in one of his satirical compositions praises the composure of a woman who
is

"Mistress of herself
though china fall."

Even that fine old bachelor, philosopher, and humorist, Charles Lamb, thought
that the subject deserved an essay.

In speaking of the ornaments on the tea-cup he says, in "Old China":

"I like to see my old friends, whom distance cannot diminish, figuring up in the
air (so they appear to our optics), yet on terra firma still, for so we must in
courtesy interpret that speck of deeper blue which the decorous artist, to prevent
absurdity, has made to spring up beneath their sandals. I love the men with
women's faces and the women, if possible, with still more womanish
expressions.

"Here is a young and courtly Mandarin, handing tea to a lady from a salver--two
miles off. See how distance seems to set off respect! And here the same lady, or
another--for likeness is identity on tea-cups--is stepping into a little fairy boat,
moored on the hither side of this calm garden river, with a dainty, mincing foot,
which is in a right angle of incidence (as angles go in our world) that must
infallibly land her in the midst of a flowery mead--a furlong off on the other side
of the same strange stream!"

The Spectator and the Tatter were also susceptible to the female influence that
tea inspired. In both of these journals there are frequent allusions to tea-parties
and china. At these gatherings, poets and dilletante literary gentlemen read their
verses and essays to the ladies, who criticised their merits. These "literary teas"
became so contagious that a burning desire for authorship took possession of the
ladies, for among those who made their debut as authors about this time were
Fanny Burney, Mrs. Alphra Behn, Mrs. Manley, the Countess of Winchelsea,
and a host of others.

One of the readers of the Spectator wrote as follows:

"Mr. Spectator: Your paper is a part of my tea-equipage, and my servant knows

my humor so well that, calling for my breakfast this morning (it being past my
usual hour), she answered, the Spectator was not come in, but that the tea-kettle
boiled, and she expected it every minute."

Crabbe, too, was a devotee of ladies, literature, and tea, for he wrote:

"The gentle fair on

nervous tea relies,
Whilst gay good-
nature sparkles in
her eyes;
And inoffensive
scandal fluttering
round,
Too rough to tickle
and too light to
wound."

What better proof do we want, therefore, that to women's influence is due the
cultivation and retention of the tea habit? Without tea, what would become of
women, and without women and tea, what would become of our domestic
literary men and matinee idols? They would not sit at home or in salons and
write and act things. There would be no homes to sit in, no salons or theatres to
act in, and dramatic art would receive a blow from which it could not recover in
a century, at least.

[Illustration: tea07]

In the year 1700, J. Roberts, a London publisher, issued a pamphlet of about fifty
pages which was made up as follows:

Poem upon Tea in

Two Cantos . . . 34
pages
Dedication of the
poem . . . . . . . . . . 6
"
Preface to the poem .
. . . . . . . . . . . 2 "
Poem upon the poem
. . . . . . . . . . . 1 "
Introduction to the
poem . . . . . . . . . 4 "
To the author upon
the poem . . . . . 1 "
Postscript . . . . . . . . .
. . . . . . . . . . . 3 "
Tea-Table . . . . . . . . .
. . . . . . . . . . . 2 "

The poem--pièce de résistance--which is by one Nahum Tate, who figures on the

title-page as "Servant to His Majesty," is an allegory; and although good in spots
is too long and too dry to reproduce here. "The poem upon the poem," "The
Introduction," and the "Tea-Table" verses will be found interesting and
entertaining.
ON OUR ENGLISH
POETRY AND THIS
POEM UPON TEA

See Spanish
Curderon in Strength
outdone:
And see the Prize of
Wit from Tasso won:
See Corneil's Skill
and Decency
Refin'd;
See Rapin's Art, and
Molier's Fire
Outshin'd;
See Dryden's Lamp
to our admiring
View,
Brought from the
Tomb to shine and
Blaze anew!

The British Laurel

by old Chaucer
worn,
Still Fresh and Gay,
did Dryden's Brow
Adorn;
And that its Lustre
may not fade on
Thine,
Wit, Fancy,
Judgment, Taste, in
thee combine.
Thy pow'rful Genius
thus, from Censure's
Frown
And Envy's Blast, in
Flourishing Renown,
Supports our British
Muses Verdant
Crown.
Nor only takes a
Trusty Laureat's
Care,
Lest Thou the Muses
Garland might'st
impair;
But, more Enrich'd,
the Chaplet to
Bequeath,
With Eastern Tea
join'd to the Laurel-
Wreath.
--R. B.

TO THE AUTHOR
ON HIS POEM
UPON TEA

Let Rustick Satyr,

now no more Abuse,
In rude Unskilful
Strains, thy Tuneful
Muse;
No more let Envy
lash thy true-bred
Steed,
Nor cross thy easy,
just, and prudent
Speed:
Who dext'rously
doth bear or loose
the Rein,
To climb each lofty
Hill, or scour the
Plain:
With proper Weight
and Force thy
Courses run;
Where still thy
Pegasus has
Wonders done,
Come home with
Strength, and thus
the Prize has Won.
But now takes Wing,
and to the Skies
aspires;
While Vanquish'd
Envy the bold Flight
admires,
And baffled Satyr to
his Den retires.
--T. W.

THE
INTRODUCTION

Fame Sound thy

Trump, all Ranks of
Mortals Call,
To share a Prize that
will enrich 'em All.
You that with Sacred
Oracles converse,
And clearly wou'd
Mysterious Truths
rehearse;
On soaring Wings of
Contemplation rise,
And fetch
Discov'ries from
above the Skies;
Ethereal TEA your
Notions will resine,
Till you yourselves
become almost
Divine.

You statesmen, who

in Storms the
Publick
Helm Wou'd Guide
with Skill, and Save
a sinking Realm,
TEA, your Minerva,
shall suggest such
Sense,
Such safe and
sudden Turns of
Thought dispense,
That you, like her
Ulysses, may
Advise,
And start Designs
that shall the World
surprise.

You Pleaders, who

for Conquest at the
Bar
Contend as Fierce
and Loud as Chiefs
in War;
Would you Amaze
and Charm the
list'ning Court?
First to this Spring
of Eloquence resort:
Then boldly launch
on Tully's flowing
Seas,
And grasp the
Thunder of
Demosthenes.

You Artists of the

AEsculapian Tribe,
Wou'd you, like
AEsculapius's Self,
Prescribe,
Cure Maladies, and
Maladies prevent?
Receive this Plant,
from your own
Phoebus sent;
Whence Life's nice
Lamp in Temper is
maintain'd,
When Dim,
Recruited, when too
fierce, restrained.

You Curious Souls,

who all our
Thoughts apply,
The hidden Works of
Nature to descry;
Why veering Winds
with Vari'd Motion
blow,
Why Seas in settled
Courses Ebb and
Flow;
Wou'd you these
Secrets of her
Empire know?
Treat the Coy
Nymph with this
Celestial Dew,
Like Ariadne she'll
impart the Clue;
Shall through her
Winding Labyrinths
convey,
And Causes,
iculking in their
Cells, display.

You that to Isis's

Bark or Cam retreat,
Wou'd you prove
worthy Sons of
either Seat,
And All in
Learning's
Commonwealth be
Great?
Infuse this Leaf, and
your own Streams
shall bring
More Science than
the fam'd Castalian
Spring.

Wou'd you, O
Musick's Sons, your
art Compleat,
And all its ancient
Miracles repeat,
Rouse Rev'ling
Monarchs into
Martial Rage,
And, when Inflam'd,
with Softer Notes As
swage;
The tedious Hours of
absent Love beguile,
Charm Care asleep,
and make Affliction
smile?
Carouse in Tea, that
will your Souls
inspire;
Drink Phoebus's
liquor and command
his Lyre.

Sons of Appelles,
wou'd you draw the
Face
And Shape of Venus,
and with equal
Grace
In some Elysian
Field the Figure
place?
Your Fancy, warm'd
by TEA, with wish'd
success,
Shall Beauty's
Queen in all her
Charms express;
With Nature's Rural
Pride your
Landscape fill
The Shady Grotto,
and the Sunny Hill,
The Laughing
Meadow, and the
Talking Rill.

Sons of the Muses,

would you Charm
the Plains
With Chearful Lays,
or Sweet Condoling
Strains;
Or with a Sonnet
make the Vallies
ring,
To Welcome home
the Goddess of the
Spring?
Or wou'd you in
sublimer Themes
engage,
And sing of
Worthies who adorn
the Age?
Or, with Promethean
Boldness, wou'd
aspire
To Catch a Spark of
the Celestial Fire
That Crowned the
Royal Conquest, and
could raise
Juverne's Boyn
above Scamander's
Praise?
Drink, drink
Inspiring TEA, and
boldly draw
A Hercules, a Mars,
or a NASSAU.

THE TEA-TABLE

Hail, Queen of
Plants, Pride of
Elysian Bow'rs!
How shall we speak
thy complicated
Pow'rs?
Thou Won'drous
Panacea to asswage
The Calentures of
Youths' fermenting
rage,
And Animate the
freezing Veins of
age.

To Bacchus when
our Griefs repair for
Ease,
The Remedy proves
worse than the
Disease.
Where Reason we
must lose to keep the
Round,
And drinking others
Health's, our own
confound:
Whilst TEA, our
Sorrows to beguile,
Sobriety and Mirth
does reconcile:
For to this Nectar we
the Blessing owe,
To grow more Wise,
as we more Cheerful
grow.

Whilst fancy does

her brightest beams
dispense,
And decent Wit
diverts without
Offense.
Then in Discourse of
Nature's mystick
Pow'rs
And Noblest
Themes, we pass the
well spent Hours.
Whilst all around the
Virtues' Sacred
Band,
And list'ning Graces,
pleas'd Attendants,
stand.

Thus our Tea-

Conversation we
employ,
Where with Delight,
Instruction we enjoy;
Quaffing, without
the waste of Time or
Wealth,
The Sov'reign Drink
of Pleasure and of
Health.

DR. JOHNSON'S
AFFINITY

DR. SAMUEL
JOHNSON drew his
own portrait thus:

"A hardened and

shameless tea-
drinker, who for
twenty years diluted
his meals with the
infusion of this
fascinating plant;
 whose kettle had
scarcely time to
cool; who with tea
amused the evening,
with tea solaced the
midnight, and with
tea welcomed the
morning."

EARLIEST MENTION OF TEA

According to a magazinist, the first mention of tea by an Englishman is to be

found in a letter from Mr. Wickham, an agent of the East India Company, written
from Japan, on the 27th of June, 1615, to Mr. Eaton, another officer of the
company, a resident of Macao, asking him to send "a pot of the best chaw." In
Mr. Eaton's accounts of expenditure occurs this item:

"Three silver porringiys to drink chaw in."

AUSTRALIAN TEA

In the interior of Australia all the men drink tea. They drink it all day long, and
in quantities and at a strength that would seem to be poisonous. On Sunday
morning the tea-maker starts with a clean pot and a clean record. The pot is hung
over the fire with a sufficiency of water in it for the day's brew, and when this
has boiled he pours into it enough of the fragrant herb to produce a deep, coffee-
colored liquid.

On Monday, without removing yesterday's tea-leaves, he repeats the process; on

Tuesday da capo and on Wednesday da capo, and so on through the week.
Toward the close of it the great pot is filled with an acrid mash of tea-leaves, out
of which the liquor is squeezed by the pressure of a tin cup.

By this time the tea is of the color of rusty iron, incredibly bitter and
disagreeable to the uneducated palate. The native calls it "real good old post and
rails," the simile being obviously drawn from a stiff and dangerous jump, and
regards it as having been brought to perfection.

FIVE-O'CLOCK TEA

There is a fallacy among certain tea-fanciers that the origin of five-o'clock tea
was due to hygienic demand. These students of the stomach contend that as a
tonic and gentle stimulant, when not taken with meat, it is not to be equalled.
With meat or any but light food it is considered harmful. Taken between
luncheon and dinner it drives away fatigue and acts as a tonic. This is good if
true, but it is only a theory, after all. Our theory is that five o'clock in the
afternoon is the ladies' leisure hour, and that the taking of tea at that time is an
escape from ennui.

TEA IN LADIES' NOVELS

What would women novelists do without tea in their books? The novelists of the
rougher sex write of "over the coffee and cigars"; or, "around the gay and festive
board"; or, "over a bottle of old port"; or, "another bottle of dry and sparkling
champagne was cracked"; or, "and the succulent welsh rarebits were washed
down with royal mugs of musty ale"; or, "as the storm grew fiercer, the captain
ordered all hands to splice the main brace," i. e., to take a drink of rum; or, "as he
gulped down the last drink of fiery whiskey, he reeled through the tavern door,
and his swaying form drifted into the bleak, black night, as a roar of laughter
drowned his repentant sobs." But the ladies of the novel confine themselves
almost exclusively to tea--rarely allowing their heroes and heroines to indulge in
even coffee, though they sometimes treat their heroes to wine; but their heroines
rarely get anything from them but Oolong.

[Illustration: tea08]

SYDNEY SMITH

One evening when Sidney Smith was drinking tea with Mrs. Austin the servant
entered the crowded room with a boiling tea-kettle in his hand. It seemed
doubtful, nay, impossible, he should make his way among the numerous gossips-
-but on the first approach of the steaming kettle the crowd receded on all sides,
Mr. Smith among the rest, though carefully watching the progress of the lad to
the table.

"I declare," said he, addressing Mrs. Austin, "a man who wishes to make his way
in life could do no better than go through the world with a boiling tea-kettle in
his hand."--Life of Rev. Sydney Smith.

DR. JOHNSON AGAIN

The good doctor evidently lived up to his reputation as a tea-drinker at all times
and places. Cumberland, the dramatist, in his memoirs gives a story illustrative
of the doctor's tea-drinking powers: "I remember when Sir Joshua Reynolds, at
my home, reminded Dr. Johnson that he had drunk eleven cups of tea. 'Sir,' he
replied, 'I did not count your glasses of wine; why should you number my cups
of tea?'"

At another time a certain Lady Macleod, after pouring out sixteen cups for him,
ventured mildly to ask whether a basin would not save him trouble and be more
convenient. "I wonder, madam," he replied, roughly, "why all ladies ask such
questions?" "It is to save yourself trouble, not me," was the tactful answer of his
hostess.

A CUP OF TEA

From St. Nicholas,

December, 1899.

Now Grietje from

her window sees the
leafless poplars lean
Against a windy
sunset sky with
streaks of golden
green;
The still canal is
touched with light
from that wild,
wintry sky,
And, dark and gaunt,
the windmill flings
its bony arms on
high.
"It's growing late;
it's growing cold; I'm
all alone," says she;
"I'll put the little
kettle on, to make a
cup of tea!"

Mild radiance from

the porcelain stove
reflects on shining
tiles;
The kettle beams, so
red and bright that
Grietje thinks it
smiles;
The kettle sings--so
soft and low it seems
as in a dream--
The song that's like a
lullaby, the pleasant
song of steam:
"The summer's gone;
the storks are flown;
I'm always here, you
see,
To sing and sing,
and shine, and shine,
and make a cup of
tea!"
 The blue delft plates
and dishes gleam, all
ranged upon the
shelf;
The tall Dutch clock
tick-ticks away, just
talking to itself;
The brindled pussy
cuddles down, and
basks and blinks and
purrs;
And rosy, sleepy
Grietje droops that
snow-white cap of
hers.
"I do like winter
after all; I'm very
glad," says she,
"I put--my--little--
kettle--on--to make--
a cup--of--tea!"
--HELEN
GRAY CONE.

[Illustration: tea09]

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