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Porsche 997.1 Wiper Motor Repair

The document provides instructions for removing and replacing a leaking windshield washer reservoir tank on a 2009 Porsche 997.2 Carrera. The key steps include: 1. Removing the fill tube, driver's side wheel liner, and white plastic tank secured by one bolt. 2. Disconnecting hoses and electrical connections from the two pumps and fluid level sensor. 3. Replacing rubber seals and grommets before reinstalling the tank and reattaching all connections. 4. Reinstalling the wheel liner and checking for proper installation of all components.

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185 views8 pages

Porsche 997.1 Wiper Motor Repair

The document provides instructions for removing and replacing a leaking windshield washer reservoir tank on a 2009 Porsche 997.2 Carrera. The key steps include: 1. Removing the fill tube, driver's side wheel liner, and white plastic tank secured by one bolt. 2. Disconnecting hoses and electrical connections from the two pumps and fluid level sensor. 3. Replacing rubber seals and grommets before reinstalling the tank and reattaching all connections. 4. Reinstalling the wheel liner and checking for proper installation of all components.

Uploaded by

wachu73
Copyright
© © All Rights Reserved
We take content rights seriously. If you suspect this is your content, claim it here.
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Download as PDF, TXT or read online on Scribd
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Remove/Replace Windshield Washer Reservoir

997.2 Carrera Base (2009)


I recently had problems with my windshield washer reservoir leaking fluid to the point that it would
empty itself in 24 hours. Rather than take it to the dealer (since I’m well out of warranty), I decided to
research and do it myself. The particular version discussed is for the Carrera with the headlamp washers,
so there are two pumps and the tank holds 6.5 quarts of fluid.

You access the washer tank via the driver side front wheel well. To prepare for the removal, I
found it easier to remove the fill tube first. Remove the battery compartment cover, then the driver’s side
cover for the washer fill neck.

The fill neck is held in place with a latch lever just under the left fender. You can access it once the
compartment cover is removed in the previous step. Reach in with your hand and bend back the lever in
the photos below to release the latch. While holding the lever, pull the fill neck towards the battery to
remove it. If your tank is full, I would siphon the fluid out before performing this step to minimize the spill.
Note that the windshield washer hose does not need to be disconnected from this side.

Once the fill tube is removed, lift the car so that the driver’s side front wheel can be removed.
Once the wheel is off you need to remove the rear portion of the wheel lining. It is held in place with 3
screws and 3 plastic nuts at the locations shown below. The screws use a T-25 Torx wrench and the
nuts use a 10 mm hex head socket.
.

Loosen and remove the wheel liner. I found it easier to start at the radiator side with a trim tool
and work my way towards the back. Note that the other part of the wheel liner which covers the driver’s
side radiator does not have to be removed. Also note that the wheel liner will still be attached to the
bottom body panel at this point. I choose to leave it attached and drape the wheel liner across the brake
rotor to get it out of the way. Once you have it out of the way you will see the white tank as below.
The tank is secured to the fender with one bolt requiring a 13 mm hex head socket. This bolt is
located at the top of the tank at the approximate location shown above, also the location below with the
tank removed. Its 1.5” long, so many turns of the socket wrench to remove.

Before removing the tank, disconnect the windshield washer pump hose from the interface block
below. Since this connector is plastic, use caution in removal to prevent breaking it. As far as the
headlight washer’s hose, I found it easier to remove from the pump once the tank was out.
Once the bolt is out and the hose disconnected, grab the tanks and wiggle it out of the
fender. It’s being retained at this point with two round pegs with rubber grommets at the back of
the tank, so it will take some nudging to get them to release.
With the tank loose, disconnect the wire harness from the two pumps and the level sensor. Each
of the connectors has a latch on the flat side that will have to be pressed in to get them to release. Once
the harness is removed, disconnect the headlight washer hose.

Now that the tank is out you can fix your issue. In my case the internal windshield washer pump
seal had failed and fluid was leaking out of the pump housing. The headlight washer pump was fine as
was the tank itself. I bought a kit and replaced all of the rubber seals and grommets on the tank. Note
that the one offered by Suncoast does not include the one for the headlight washer pump and is
purchased separately.
Installation of the tank is the reverse of removal. You will have to apply pressure and wiggle the tank to
get the round peg grommets to fully seat in the fender sockets. Note the routing of the headlamp washer
hose after you reattach it to the pump as below.

The 13 mm hex head bolt is torqued to 15 ft lbs. The screws and nuts retaining the wheel liner are
around 2 ft lbs. Technically, you are not supposed to reuse the plastic nuts you removed, but I didn’t see
an issue at this point. I just lightly hand tightened the three nuts and screws for the wheel liner.

Remember to:

1. Make sure the pumps are fully seated on the tank


2. Reattach the windshield washer and headlamp washer hoses.
3. Reattach the wire harness to the two pumps and the level sensor.
4. Properly route the headlight washer pump wire harness so that it doesn’t get pinched
5. Make sure the wheel liner is properly seated before securing with the bolts and screws.
6. Properly torque the wheel bolts when the front wheel is installed.

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