CODES FOR HOMEOWNERS

Updated 3rd Edition

Electrical • Mechanical • Plumbing • Building Current with 2015-2017 Codes

Bruce A. Barker
Contents
Codes for Homeowners

Introduction
Codes & Permits: The Basics
Building Design & Safety
Habitable Rooms
Fire Separations
Stairways
Emergency Escape Openings
Egress Doors
Exterior Doors
Door & Window Hazards
Ventilation & Exhaust
Smoke & Carbon Monoxide Alarms
Structural Components
Foundations
Crawlspaces
Decks
Floor Systems
Wall Systems
Wall Penetration Flashing
Roof Systems
Exterior Components
Shingle Roof-Covering Installation
Fireplaces & Chimneys
Heating & Air Conditioning
HVAC Appliances
HVAC Duct Installation
Combustion Air for Fuel-burning Appliances
Vents for Fuel-burning Appliances
Plumbing System
The Home Plumbing System
Water Supply Piping
Drain, Waste & Vent Piping (DWV)
Plumbing Vents
Plumbing Traps
Plumbing Appliances & Fixtures
Electrical System
Understanding Electrical Circuits
Electrical Grounding & Bonding
Electrical Branch Circuit Requirements
Electrical Receptacle Installation
Ground-fault (GFCI) & Arc-fault (AFCI) Protection
Junction Boxes, Device Boxes & Enclosures
Switch Installation
Light Fixture Installation
Satellite Dishes, Television & Radio Antennas
Broadband Cable Wiring

Appendix
Conversion Chart
Resources
Photography Credits
Index
Introduction

T he purpose of the 2015 International Residential Code (IRC), and of

all building codes for that matter, is expressed in IRC Section R101.3:
“The purpose of this code is to establish minimum requirements to
safeguard the public safety, health, and general welfare…” This statement
provides important information about building codes and code inspections.
Building codes are minimum requirements. A house built to minimum
requirements is not necessarily a high quality house built by craftsmen
according to best practices. Code inspections are about safety and health.
They are not about fit, finish, and other cosmetic issues. They are not even
about functional issues that are not specifically addressed in the code.
Understanding the purpose of building codes helps you set realistic
expectations about the limits of building codes and code inspections.
Building codes change; most do so on a three year cycle. Many code
changes are little more than rewording or reorganization in an attempt to
make code provisions easier to understand and easier to find. Many code
changes and additions are substantive and homeowners should be aware of
these as they perform repairs and remodeling projects. Substantive
additions and changes are the reasons for this updated edition of Codes for
Homeowners.
One substantive change and addition to the 2015 IRC involves the
section on decks and we have expanded the deck section of this book to
reflect these changes. Decks are one of the most frequent sources of injuries
and fatalities of any structure in and around the home. The expanded decks
section provides important information to help you build a deck that
complies with 2015 IRC requirements. It will also point you to information
that will help you go beyond minimum code requirements and build your
deck according to best practices.
Another substantive change to the 2015 IRC involves energy efficiency
requirements. We all want to use less energy in our homes, not only to save
the environment but to save money. We have added a significant new
section to this edition of Codes for Homeowners that will not only help you
understand new IRC requirements, but also provides tips on how you can
save energy and save money.
Trying to condense a 900-page code book that is mostly text and tables
in very small print into significantly fewer pages filled with pictures and
illustrations is a challenge. We have not included many code provisions
because homeowners will not use them. The provisions we include have
been simplified to make them easier to understand. This means that Codes
for Homeowners is not your local building code. Your local building code,
as interpreted by your building inspector, is the code with which you must
comply. You must do so even if you do not obtain a building permit for
your work. If you have any doubts or questions about how a building
code provision applies in your area, you should ask your local building
inspectors. In almost every case, if you approach them as a resource and
not as an obstacle, you will find your local inspectors to be friendly,
knowledgeable, and eager to help.
—Bruce A. Barker
Residential Combination Inspector
International Code Council
 Codes & Permits: The Basics

I n just the United States you will find hundreds of code books describing
thousands upon thousands of building code provisions. On top of this,
there are even more books that look and feel like code books but are
really only attempting to describe best practices. Almost all of these have
their own inherent value. But almost none of them apply to a typical
homeowner living in a typical single-family home. As a homeowner and
DIYer, perhaps the hardest thing about building codes is learning how to tell
which one applies to you and, if there is a disagreement, which takes
precedence. As an introduction, here are some brief biographies of the more
common codes and enforcement agencies you’re likely to encounter.

The International Residential Code

The International Residential Code (IRC) 2012 is one of an extensive
collection of model building codes published by the International Code
Council (ICC). A model building code is a recommended building code that
is developed by a national organization that specializes in writing building
codes. When adopted by a government agency, the IRC regulates the
construction, renovation, maintenance, and repair of buildings used as
homes. The IRC, by itself, has no formal legal status. A government agency
must first adopt the IRC before it has any legal status in a local area.
The International Residential Code has no jurisdiction of its own but is the basis for many state and
local residential building codes.
 State & Local Building Codes
Almost all areas of the United States have adopted some version of a
building code. Some states, such as California, Florida, and New York, have
a state building code. Some large cities, such as Chicago and New York
City, have a city building code. Many of these state and local building codes
are based on model building codes from the ICC.
Some states and cities have their own building codes.

Smaller cities and counties often use ICC model building codes, such as
the IRC. Some rural areas may not have adopted a building code, but this is
becoming a rare situation. If you do any work that is regulated by the local
building code, you are responsible for knowing, or for hiring someone who
knows, the applicable building code where the building is located.
Ignorance of the code is no excuse.

Local Code Amendments

Most building departments that use the IRC adopt local changes to the IRC.
Many of these changes are minor and help to adapt the IRC to local
conditions and needs. Some of these changes can significantly alter IRC
provisions. The building department should publish, in writing, any changes
adopted by the local government. You are responsible for knowing and
complying with all local changes. Ask the building official if there are any
local code changes.

Most jurisdictions have their own code amendments. Your city or municipality likely maintains a
website with building ordinances posted and updated regularly.
 Other Building Codes
The IRC is not the only building code. Other commonly used building
codes include: The International Building Code (IBC), The International
Mechanical Code (IMC), The International Plumbing Code (IPC), The
Uniform Plumbing Code (UPC), The International Fuel Gas Code (IFG),
The National Electrical Code (NEC), and The International Energy
Conservation Code (IECC). Each of these building codes regulates a
different aspect of building construction.
The IBC regulates the structural aspects of all buildings, although it is
not commonly applied to residential buildings. The IBC usually applies to
commercial, industrial, and multi-family buildings such as apartments. The
IRC references the IBC and the IECC when a part of a residential building
is not addressed by the IRC.
Each major system in a building has its own code. The IMC regulates
heating, ventilation, and air conditioning systems; the IPC regulates
plumbing systems; and the IFG regulates gas piping and gas equipment.
These codes usually apply to commercial-type buildings. The UPC is a
separate code, published by another code-writing organization, that also
regulates plumbing systems. It may replace the IRC plumbing chapters in
areas that adopt the UPC. The NEC regulates electrical systems. The IRC
contains an adapted version of the NEC in the IRC electrical chapters.
When the IRC does not address an electrical situation in a home, the NEC
usually applies.
The IECC regulates energy-related aspects of all buildings. These
aspects include: insulation, air infiltration, and window and door energy
efficiency. The IRC contains a simplified subset of the IECC in IRC
Chapter Eleven.
You should know which codes apply to your construction project. Ask
your local building official which codes apply in your area.
Trade-oriented building codes with a more specific focus apply in some situations. Most of these are
primarily for nonresidential construction.
 Zoning Ordinances
Many areas, particularly the more densely populated ones, have land use
and zoning ordinances that control what you can build on your property.
You are responsible for knowing and complying with them. In larger
jurisdictions, the planning and zoning department may be separate from the
building inspection department, and sometimes one does not know what the
other is doing. It is possible that the building inspection department might
issue a permit that would create a zoning violation. Projects that might run
afoul of zoning ordinances include new, free-standing buildings, basement
remodels that add a bedroom, bathroom, and kitchen, and any project that
adds an additional full kitchen on property zoned for single-family use.

Buildings Governed by the IRC

Apply the IRC to buildings containing one or two individual residential
dwelling units in one building. Duplex is a common term for one building
containing two individual dwelling units.
Apply the IRC to townhouses. A townhouse contains at least 3
individual dwelling units in one building.
Each dwelling unit in any building within scope of the IRC must have a
separate means of egress. This is often interpreted to mean that each
dwelling unit must have a separate door to the outside.
Apply the IRC to residential buildings with not more than 3 stories
above grade plane. A story above grade plane is: (a) one where the finished
floor is entirely above grade plane, or (b) is more than 6 feet above grade
plane, or (c) is more than 12 feet above finished ground level at any point.
The definition of grade plane is complex and is measured at the lowest
point 6 feet from each building foundation wall. Refer to the definitions in
IRC Chapter 2 and consult the local building official if there is a question
about whether a basement is a story above grade plane.
Apply the IRC to owner-occupied guest accommodations (such as a bed
and breakfast) if the building contains not more than 5 guest rooms and if a
fire suppression system is installed in the building.
Do not apply the IRC to buildings used for business, office, commercial,
industrial, or other residential purposes such as a fraternity house. This is
true even if the building was once used as a residence. You may apply the
IRC to an office in the home if the office is incidental to the residential use
of the building. Refer to the International Building Code (IBC) and other
applicable codes for code provisions governing buildings not governed by
the IRC.

Apply the IRC to all single-family homes.

Apply the IRC to multi-family buildings, such as duplexes and townhomes.
 Building Departments
A local building department enforces the building code in its jurisdiction.
The technical term often used to describe this department is the Authority
Having Jurisdiction (AHJ). The term used to describe the person
responsible for enforcing the code is the Building Official or Chief Building
Official. The public name for the local building department varies by
jurisdiction. Many building departments will have the terms “building” or
“safety” somewhere in the name. In some larger jurisdictions, the building
department may be a division of a larger agency that is also responsible for
land planning, zoning, and development. Some building department names
may not sound like they have anything at all to do with building code
enforcement. If you do any work that requires a building permit, you are
responsible for finding and contacting the building department. Work done
without a permit can have serious legal and financial consequences.
Consider your local building department to be a friendly place with extremely valuable resources to
help you get your projects done correctly.
 Working with Government Building Inspectors
The building official is the king of his building jurisdiction. Don’t mess
with the king. He can make your life very difficult. If you must disagree
with him, do so respectfully and with facts that support your position. The
building official has the right to interpret any code provision. While he does
not have the right to waive code provisions or to require more than the code
requires, interpretations can sometimes have that effect. Even if his
interpretation seems unreasonable, eventually it will probably prevail. In
almost all cases, you should just smile and do what he tells you.
Most building officials and inspectors are honest, hardworking people
who want to ensure that your project is safe and complies with local
building codes. They can be a valuable resource. Take advantage of that
resource. Ask questions and work with them. Most will, in turn, work with
you.

A city building inspector is accustomed to making site inspections in person. Make sure you are
prepared for the visit at the allotted time and try to be present so you can take notes and answer

questions.
Working with Private Building Inspectors
Time is not the friend of government building inspectors. From an
eight-hour day, they must subtract doing paperwork, discussing
inspections with stakeholders, traveling between inspections, and
performing other duties. Divide the remaining time by 20 to 30
inspections per day, or more, and they may have only a few minutes to
perform each inspection. It’s a credit to government inspectors that they
find many major code violations. Most will admit, however, that they
cannot find all code violations. They will also admit that they are not
even looking for issues that, although they are not code violations, can
have a significant negative impact on the cost to operate and maintain
the home.
Private building inspectors fill this quality control gap for many
people. People building homes and people performing major
remodeling projects hire a private inspector who helps the government
inspector and the contractor provide quality construction. A private
inspector can perform a far more thorough inspection than a
government inspector because a private inspector can invest more time
on each inspection. In addition, a private inspector usually inspects
areas such as attics and roofs, where government inspectors rarely go.
When building a new home or during a major remodeling project, a
private inspector is often most useful at two critical points. The most
critical point is just before insulation and drywall are installed. This
inspection is sometimes called the pre-drywall inspection and is the
most important inspection a home will ever have. At this time, an
inspector can see many important components that will be covered by
finish materials and, in most cases, will never be visible again. The
other critical point is at the end of construction. At this time, an
inspector can see and test important systems in the home.
Private inspectors are increasingly common on construction sites.
While some contractors welcome private inspectors, many do not. Even
if you decide not to engage a private inspector, it is wise to discuss the
option with the contractor before signing a contract, and it is wise to
agree, in writing, to how the contractor will work with the private
inspector during construction.
Private building inspectors (such as the author, seen here) may be hired by a client to check the
contractor’s work at key points.
 Manufacturer’s Instructions
The IRC requires installing all components, equipment, and appliances
according to the manufacturer’s instructions. This requirement is so
important that it is repeated many times in the IRC. Manufacturer’s
instructions are an enforceable extension of the IRC. This means that it is a
code violation to install something in a manner that does not conform to
manufacturer’s instructions.
Manufacturer’s instructions are an important part of ensuring that
components are safe. Independent organizations test many components used
to build homes. This includes almost all manufactured components. The
tests are conducted under defined conditions that include using the
manufacturer’s instructions to install the component. The testing
organization certifies that the component is safe when installed and used
according to manufacturer’s instructions. The testing organization places
the certified components on a list maintained by the testing organization.
This process is called listing, and the components are referred to in the IRC
as listed.
The IRC cannot anticipate every possible building component and every
possible way the component could be installed. As such, the IRC relies on
the manufacturer’s instructions to specify how components should be
installed.
When a difference between the IRC and the manufacturer’s instructions
occurs, the IRC assumes that the manufacturer is in a better position to
know its product and how it should be installed in a given situation. This is
why the IRC usually defers to the manufacturer’s instructions. Ask the local
building official for an interpretation if there is a difference between the
manufacturer’s instructions and the IRC.
Manufacturer’s installation instructions must be followed to the letter, and they are an enforceable
extension of the IRC.

Grandfathering Existing Work

In almost all situations, you are not required to abandon, remove, or alter
existing work that is lawfully in existence and safely functioning. Lawfully
in existence means the work was inspected and complied with the code
when installed and/or modified.
In almost all situations, when updating, modifying, or repairing existing
work, you are required to perform the update, modification, or repair
according to the code in force when the work is performed. You are usually
not required to make the existing work comply with current code.
 Building Permits & Inspections
Contact your local building officials to determine which construction
activities require a building permit and to determine the documents and
procedures required to obtain a permit. The building official you speak with
may not enforce some building permit requirements contained in the IRC,
but may add additional building permit requirements not contained in the
IRC.
You must wait until the required permit is issued before beginning work.
Beginning work before the permit is issued may result in fines, and the
building official could require removal of the work.
Comply with the building code applicable to where the building is
located. The applicable building code is usually the code in force when the
permit is issued. If you do not obtain a building permit, comply with the
building code in force when the work is performed. The building code
applies whether or not you obtain a building permit. This is important. Lack
of a building permit does not relieve the building owner or the contractor of
responsibility for code compliance.
When Is a Permit Required?
You typically will need a building permit for:

• Construction of new buildings

• Additions and structural modifications to existing buildings
• Structural repairs to existing buildings
• Replacement of or major repairs to building components, such as roof
coverings and exterior wall coverings
• Movement and demolition of existing buildings
• Changes to building occupancy. A change to building occupancy
means changing how the building is used. Example: using a single-
family home as a place of business is a change in occupancy that may
require a building permit and may require a zoning change or zoning
waiver.
• Additions to, major changes to, and/or replacement of electrical,
plumbing, gas, and HVAC components

You may not need a building permit for:

• Building or installation of one-story detached accessory structures

(such as storage sheds and playhouses) with a floor area not more
than 200 square feet
• Fences not more than seven feet tall
• Retaining walls not more than four feet tall measured from the bottom
of the footing to the top of the wall and not supporting a surcharge (a
surcharge is a vertical load in addition to and/or above the retained
ground)
• Driveways and sidewalks
• Painting, papering, floor covering installation, cabinet and countertop
installation, and similar finish work
• Installation of portable plug-and-cord connected decorative lights and
similar plug-and-cord connected electrical equipment
• Replacement of fuses and circuit breakers
• Low-voltage lights and other electrical wires and equipment operating
at less than 25 volts and not more than 50 watts
• Installation of portable gas heating, cooking, and clothes-drying
equipment
• Installation of portable HVAC equipment (such as window air
conditioners)
• Clearing of plumbing stoppages and repair of plumbing leaks, and
removal and reinstallation of toilets if the repairs do not involve
replacement or rearrangement of valves, pipes, or fixtures
• Decks that are not more than 30 inches above ground, and are not
more than 200 square feet in area, and are not attached to the
building, and do not serve the required egress door.

You usually do not need a building permit for:

• Routine maintenance of existing buildings, fixtures, and equipment, if

the building structure is not affected and if the nature and use of the
electrical, plumbing, gas, or HVAC system is not changed
Post the job site inspection card so the inspector can see it.
Certificates of Occupancy
A certificate of occupancy is issued by your building official to affirm
that your structure is safe to inhabit. Do not move into or occupy a
building until after the building official issues a certificate of
occupancy. Do not change the use of a building without a new
certificate of occupancy. Example: do not use a building as an office if
the building was once a home without receiving a new certificate of
occupancy. The new certificate of occupancy may require changes to
the building that reflect its new commercial use. You are not required to
obtain a certificate of occupancy for accessory structures.
Permit Expiration
Verify building permit expiration rules with your local building official.
A building permit may expire if more than 180 days lapse without an
inspection or without some other evidence that work is progressing on
the project.
 Required Inspections
Contact the building official to determine the required inspections for a
construction project. Each jurisdiction has its own rules for inspections.
These rules include: which inspections it performs, what work must be
complete before requesting the inspection, how and when to schedule the
inspection, and how it handles inspections of work that fails inspection.
Note that some jurisdictions conduct a separate inspection for each trade,
some jurisdictions conduct one inspection when all trade work is complete,
and some jurisdictions conduct trade inspections during the framing
inspection. Check with the building official to determine if other
inspections are required. Further required inspections may include flood
plain and elevation, roof coverings, insulation and energy efficiency,
interior drywall, and exterior wall coverings such as stucco and masonry.

Final Inspections
Prior to final inspection, you should: Install all plumbing, HVAC, and
electrical fixtures, equipment, and appliances; Install all required safety
components such as stair handrails and guards, safety glazing, and smoke
alarms. Note that jurisdictions have different rules about whether you must
install finish components, such as floor coverings, before the final
inspection. Jurisdictions also differ on whether tasks such as final grading
and landscaping must be installed.
Do not assume that passing an inspection or receiving a certificate of
occupancy is a waiver of any code violations. The building owner and
contractor are responsible for any code violations regardless of whether the
building has passed inspections.
 Preparing for Inspections

Concrete footing inspections must be done before concrete is poured. Try to coordinate the inspection
for the day before the planned pour, so you leave enough time to make corrections if required.

1. Install, square, and level forms.

2. Dig footing and pier trenches.

3. Install any required reinforcing bars.

Isolated footings such as those used to support deck columns must be inspected before the concrete is
poured. The footings will be inspected for size and depth. Some footings may require reinforcing bars.
Concrete foundation wall inspections will focus on the wall thickness, base preparation, and
reinforcement. All forms must be approved prior to the pour.

1. Install, square, straighten, plumb, and secure wall forms.

2. Install any required reinforcing bars.

Plumbing rough-in inspection.

1. Install plumbing water supply and drain pipes in the building. The building sewer pipe inspection is

usually a different inspection from the interior drainage and water supply pipe inspection. Install

fixtures such as tubs and showers that may be difficult to install after the wall construction is

complete.
Electrical rough-in inspection.

1. Have electrical service panel and subpanel cabinets installed.

2. Install boxes for switches, receptacles, and fixtures, and all electrical cables.
HVAC inspection.

1. Install HVAC ducts, pipes, and thermostat wires.

2. Install (or have installed) appliances such as furnaces and air handlers that may be difficult to install

after the construction is complete.

Framing inspection.

1. Install all interior and exterior walls, floor joists and subflooring, ceiling joists and rafters, and roof

sheathing. Install all required wall bracing, firestops, and draftstops.

2. Note that some jurisdictions may require installation of other components such as moisture barriers

and roofing felt before calling for a framing inspection.

Building Design & Safety

O ne of the most important reasons for building codes is to promote the

health and safety of building occupants. Health issues involve topics
such as minimum room size, minimum ceiling height, and
requirements for removing moisture and fumes that could damage your
home and make you sick. Safety issues involve topics such as the size and
location of emergency escape openings, design and construction of
stairs (one of the most dangerous areas in a home), and the location and
installation of smoke and carbon monoxide alarms.
 This chapter will help you understand building code requirements that
you may encounter when doing projects such as adding rooms and
remodeling basements and attics. While this chapter will help you avoid the
most common health and safety code violations, it does not address all code
requirements. You should refer to other sources for more information before
tackling complex projects.

In this chapter:
• Habitable Rooms
• Fire Separations
• Stairways
• Emergency Escape Openings
• Egress Doors
• Exterior Doors
• Door & Window Hazards
• Ventilation & Exhaust
• Smoke & Carbon Monoxide Alarms
 Habitable Rooms

H abitable rooms (also called habitable spaces) are living, sleeping,

eating, and cooking rooms. Bathrooms, toilet rooms, closets,
hallways, storage, and utility rooms are not habitable rooms.
Habitable rooms have their own set of requirements for size, ceiling height,
heating, lighting, and ventilation. Rooms that are not habitable do not have
these requirements.

Habitable Room Area Requirements

• Provide every habitable room with an area of at least 70 sq. ft.
• Provide every habitable room with a horizontal dimension of at least
84". Kitchens may be excepted: In some conditions you may design a
kitchen that is smaller than 70 sq. ft. or with a horizontal dimension
less than 84".
Measure between finished floor and the lowest part of the ceiling in most rooms and basements to
determine if minimum ceiling height standards are met. Ceiling-mounted lights and fans do not factor

into the height measurement.

Provide at least 84" of clear ceiling height between the finished floor and the ceiling at the center of
the room. If the ceiling slopes, only that floorspace where the ceiling height is at least 60" may be

considered habitable. Heights less than 60", such as kneewall areas, may be useful for storage, but they

aren’t considered living space.

Minimum Ceiling Height

1. Provide at least an 84-inch tall finished ceiling height in habitable
rooms and in hallways, including a basement containing habitable
rooms and hallways. Measure ceiling height from the finished floor to
the lowest projection from the ceiling. Projections usually include
components such as joists, beams, and ducts. Projections do not usually
include light fixtures and ceiling fans.
2. You may have obstructions that are at least 76 inches above the finished
floor in a basement containing habitable rooms and hallways.
3. Provide at least an 80-inch tall finished ceiling height in a basement that
does not contain habitable rooms or hallways. You may have
obstructions that are at least 76 inches above the finished floor in these
basement areas. Use these basement areas only for mechanical
equipment and for storage.
4. Provide at least an 80-inch finished ceiling height in bathrooms and
laundry rooms. This does not mean that all of the bathroom must have
an 80-inch tall ceiling. The ceiling height above sinks and toilets may be
less than 80 inches high but must be high enough to safely use the
 fixture. How much less is subject to interpretation by the building
inspector.
5. Provide at least an 84-inch tall finished ceiling height in habitable
rooms with a sloped ceiling. Provide this ceiling height for at least 35
sq. ft. of the finished floor area. Do not count any area with a ceiling
height less than 60 inches toward the minimum 70 sq. ft. habitable room
floor area.

Bathroom Design Standards

A 6-foot-tall person should be able to use a sink or toilet without bumping his or her head on the
ceiling.
Showers & tubs. Provide at least 80" of finished ceiling height for all of the required floor area in
showers and in tubs containing showers.
Codes (and good design practices) insist on ample space between bathroom fixtures.

SHOWER SIZE
1. Provide showers with a finished area of at least 900 square inches and a
finished minimum dimension at least 30 inches. Maintain the minimum
dimensions from the top of the threshold to at least 70 inches above the
shower drain outlet. Measure the shower from the center line of the
threshold (curb). You may install valves, shower heads, soap dishes, and
grab bars that encroach into the minimum dimensions. You may install a
fold-down seat in the shower if the minimum dimensions are
maintained when the seat is up.
2. You may provide a shower with a finished minimum dimension of at
least 25 inches if the finished area is at least 1,300 square inches.
3. Provide shower compartment entry opening of at least 22 inch finished
width.
4. Swing hinged shower doors out from the shower stall. Hinged doors
may swing into the shower stall if they also swing out. Sliding shower
doors are also allowed.
 Fire Separations

Fire Separation: Garage & Home

Many fires begin in garages. Unfortunately, garage fires often are more
intense than fires that start elsewhere because of the presence of gasoline,
cardboard, newspapers, and other flammable materials that are usually
stored in the garage. Fire safety is an important rationale for many IRC
provisions. Because of this the IRC has special requirements to help
prevent the spreading of garage fires into the home.
A fire-rated door with a minimum rating of 20 minutes is required in walls shared between a garage
and a home.
VIOLATION! DO NOT install pet doors in doors that separate the garage from the dwelling.

Fire Separation Doors

In walls that are shared between your dwelling and your garage, use at least
a 20-minute fire-rated door. These may be made from solid wood or
honeycomb-core steel. Use doors that are at least 1 3/8-inch thick.
Doors in a garage wall may not open directly into a bedroom. You also
may not install pet doors or other openings in doors or walls from a garage
into the home unless the pet door or opening is listed to maintain fire
separation. Install self-closing hinges on doors between the garage and the
home.
 Definition of a Garage
A garage is defined as a space for parking motor vehicles that is
completely closed to the outdoors on three or more sides. It typically
has an overhead door, but a structure that meets the requirement but has
no door is still considered a garage. A carport is a space for parking
motor vehicles that is open to the outdoors on at least two sides. A
space with two solid walls (often the house walls), a partially open
wall, and an opening without a vehicle door is considered a carport.
Garages and carports may be attached to, or detached from, the
dwelling. Garage fire separation requirements do not normally apply to
carports.

Fire Separation Walls & Ceilings

Walls and ceilings that separate the home from the garage should be
covered on the garage side with gypsum drywall that’s at least 1/2-inch
thick. A garage must have a ceiling made of Type X drywall that’s a
minimum of 5/8-inch thick if the garage is beneath a habitable room. (Type
X has fibrous reinforcement to help the drywall maintain its integrity when
exposed to high heat).
Maintain the same fire separation for drywall penetrations, such as attic
scuttle holes, pull-down attic stairs, gas vents, and plumbing pipes, as
provided by the gypsum drywall. Most pull-down attic stairs interrupt the
ceiling fire separation because the panel to which the stairs are attached is
thin plywood. Seal penetrations between the garage and the home, such as
pipes and ducts, with materials that resist the free flow of fire and smoke.
Such materials include fire-resistant caulk.
Type X drywall is required on garage ceilings if the space above is habitable.
VIOLATION! Do Not install pull-down stairs in a garage ceiling unless they maintain the required fire
separation. The standard plywood covers do not maintain fire separation.
 HVAC Ducts & Registers in Garages
Use at least 26-gauge sheet steel or other approved material to construct
HVAC ducts that are installed in a garage and ducts that pass through
garage walls and ceilings. Do not install HVAC supply or return air
openings in the garage. This restriction does not apply to an independent
HVAC system that serves only the garage. Do not use flexible HVAC duct
or duct board to penetrate garage walls and ceilings. Flexible ducts and duct
board may attach to steel ducts after the steel ducts penetrate the garage
firewall.
 Stairways

I nterior and exterior stairways are regulated closely by most codes

because they are inherently very dangerous parts of a house. The
regulations differ, even on very basic guidelines like the size ratio ranges
of stair treads to risers. Many of the regulations deal with lighting issues,
including the type and location of fixtures and switches. The size,
grippability, and location of handrails and railing balusters also accounts for
much of the regulatory wording on stairways.
INTERIOR STAIRWAY LIGHTING & SWITCHING
You should install as many light fixtures as necessary to illuminate all
stairway landings and treads. The areas at the top and bottom of stairs are
landings, so the lights should illuminate them too. For example, a light
fixture at the top of a stairway may not provide enough light to illuminate
the bottom landing, especially if the stairway changes direction. The light
must be capable of illuminating treads and landings to at least 1 foot-candle.
Note: A foot-candle is a unit of light measurement approximating the
amount of light you receive from a birthday cake candle when it is held 12
inches from your eyes. Photographer’s light meters may be used to measure
foot-candles.
You must locate a switch for interior stairway lights at the top and
bottom of all interior stairs with at least six risers. Only one switch is
required for interior stairs with fewer than six risers. Locate all stair
switches so they can be used without climbing any steps.
EXTERIOR STAIRWAY LIGHTING & SWITCHING
Codes for outdoor stairways differ somewhat from interior requirements
and recommendations. In exterior areas, you must locate a light fixture near
the top landing for stairs providing access to doors above grade level. You
must also locate a light fixture near the bottom landing for stairs providing
access to doors below grade level. Locate the switch inside the dwelling for
exterior stairs.
Definitions of Stairway Terms
Landing: A landing is a flat surface at the top and bottom of a
stairway, or it may also occur at points within a stairway. A landing
must be at least as wide as the stairway and at least 36 inches deep.

Nosing: A tread nose (nosing) is the part of a horizontal stair surface

that projects outward beyond a solid (closed) riser below.

Riser: A riser is the vertical part of a stair. A closed riser is created

with solid material between adjacent treads. An open riser has no
material (except for any required guards) between adjacent treads.

Stairway (flight of stairs): A series of risers and treads that is not

interrupted by a landing. A flight of stairs includes the landings at the
top and bottom of the flight. A stairway with only a top and bottom
landing has one flight of stairs. A stairway with a landing in the middle
has two flights of stairs.

Tread: A tread is the horizontal part of a stair. A tread is sometimes

called the step.

Winder tread: A winder is a tread with one end wider than the other.
Winders are often used at intermediate landings to change a stairway’s
direction.
Stairway components include: tread, winder tread, nosing, riser, landing, flight of stairs.
Install a light switch at the top and bottom of stairways with at least six risers.
One light at a center landing may not be enough to illuminate the top and bottom landings.
Install a light at the top landing of above-grade exterior stairs.
Provide a finished width of at least 36" above the handrail and at least 31 1/2" at and below one
handrail.

STAIRWAY WIDTH
1. Provide a finished stairway width of at least 36 inches above handrail to
the minimum headroom height.
2. Provide a finished stairway width of at least 31 1/2 inches at and below
the handrail for stairs with one handrail, and at least 27 inches at and
below both handrails for stairs with two handrails.
RISER HEIGHT
1. Provide a finished riser height of not more than 7 3/4 inches. Measure
riser height vertically from leading edges of adjacent treads. The IRC
does not mandate a minimum riser height.
2. Do not exceed 3/8-inch finished riser height difference between any two
risers in a flight of stairs.
3. Do not allow open risers to fit a four-inch-diameter sphere for
passthrough. This includes interior stairs and exterior stairs, such as
stairs for decks and balconies, but does not include spiral stairs.
 4. Do not include the height of carpets, carpet pads, rugs, and runners
when measuring riser height.

Maximum riser height is 7 3/4". Maximum difference between two risers in a flight of stairs is 3/8".

Open risers have the potential to trap the head of a small child. Do not allow an open riser to pass a 4"
diameter sphere. Install filler strips to reduce riser opening size, beginning with the fourth riser.
 Tread Depth
1. Provide a finished tread depth of at least 10 inches. Measure tread depth
horizontally from the leading edges of adjacent treads and at a right
angle to the tread’s leading edge.
2. Do not exceed 3/8-inch finished tread depth difference between any two
treads in a flight of stairs. This does not apply to consistently shaped
winder treads contained within the same flight of stairs.

Provide a tread depth of at least 10" if treads have a nosing or at least 11" if treads have no nosing.

Tread Nosing
1. Provide a finished tread nosing depth of at least 3/4 inch and not more
than 1 1/4 inches for stairs with solid risers. Add the nosing depth to the
10-inch minimum tread depth. You are not required to provide tread
nosing if treads are at least 11 inches deep.
2. Do not exceed 3/8-inch finished tread nosing depth difference between
any two treads for all treads between two stories, including at floors and
landings. Note that this differs from the tread and riser maximum
difference. The tread and riser differences are for a flight of stairs and
the nosing depth difference is for all treads between two stories.
 3. Do not exceed 9/16 inch for the curvature radius of a tread nosing and do
not exceed 1/2 inch for the bevel of a tread nosing.

Provide a tread nosing depth of at least 3/4" and not more than 1 1/4". Do not exceed 9/16" radius for

a curved nosing or 1/2" depth for a beveled nosing.

TREAD SLOPE
1. Slope treads and landings not more than 2 percent from horizontal in
any direction.
WINDER STAIR TREADS
1. Provide a finished winder tread depth of at least 10 inches measured
horizontally from the leading edges of adjacent treads at the walk line.
The walk line is located 12 inches from the tread’s narrow side.
2. Provide a finished winder tread depth of at least 6 inches at any point on
a winder tread within the finished width of the stairway.
3. Do not exceed 3/8-inch finished tread depth difference between any two
treads in a flight of stairs measured at the walk line.
 4. Do not compare the depth of winder treads to the depth of rectangular
treads in a flight of stairs if: (a) the winder treads all have a consistent
shape, and if (b) the winder treads comply with the winder tread depth
requirements. Winder treads will not have the same depth as the
rectangular treads, so the winder tread depth will not be within 3/8 inch
of the rectangular tread depth.
STAIRWAY HEADROOM HEIGHT
1. Provide a finished stairway headroom height of at least 80 inches
measured vertically from a sloped plane connecting the tread nosing or
from the finished floor of a landing. Projections from the ceiling are
permitted above the minimum finished headroom height.

The step up from landings should be not more than 7 3/4". Measure the step to the top of the
threshold. Make landings at least as wide as the stairway and at least 36" deep.

STAIRWAY LANDINGS
1. Provide a landing or floor at the top and bottom of most stairs.
2. You are not required to provide a landing or floor at the top of interior
stairs, including stairs in an attached garage, unless a door swings over
stairs. This means you may terminate a flight of interior stairs directly
into a door if the door swings away from the stairs.
3. Do not exceed 147 inches vertical rise of a flight of stairs without
providing a landing or a floor. Example: do not install more than twenty
 7 3/8-inch high risers without an intermediate landing.
4. Make rectangular and square landings width at least as wide as the
stairway. Example: if the stairway is 36 inches wide, build the landing
at least 36 inches wide.
5. Make rectangular and square landings depth at least 36 inches,
measured in the direction of travel.
6. You may make landings with shapes other than rectangular and square
if: (a) the depth of the landing at walk line is at least as wide as the
stairway, and if (b) the total area of the landing is at least as large as a
1/4 circle with a radius equal to the required width of the landing. The
walk line is 12 inches from the narrow side of the landing. The area of a
circle is 3.14 multiplied by the circle’s radius squared. Example: the
minimum area of a curved landing serving a 36-inch-wide stairway is
calculated as follows: (36 in.2 × 3.14) × .25 = 1,017.9 square inches.
GUARDS: DEFINITION
A guard is a barrier that protects occupants from falling from a raised
surface such as a stairway, deck, or balcony. Guards are often call guardrails
when the guard also serves as a handrail; however, guards need not be an
open rail. A guard may be a partial height solid wall, a partial height wall
containing safety glazing, or any other structure that complies with IRC
requirements.
HANDRAILS & GUARDS: LOCATION
1. Provide a handrail on at least one side of every continuous flight of
stairs with four or more risers.
2. Provide a guard at raised floor surfaces more than 30 inches above an
adjacent interior or exterior surface. Areas that require guards include
porches, balconies, decks, hallways, screened enclosures, ramps, and
the open sides of stairs with a total rise of more than 30 inches.
HEIGHT
1. Install the handrail at least 34 inches and not more than 38 inches above
the treads measured vertically from a sloped plane connecting the tread
nosing or from the finished floor of a ramp.
2. You may exceed the 38-inch maximum height where a handrail
connects with a guard to provide a continuous structure. Example: a
 handrail connects to a guard at an intermediate stairway landing. The
handrail height at the beginning and ending of the intermediate landing
guard may exceed 38 inches high.
3. Provide guards at least 36 inches tall at raised surfaces other than the
open sides of stairs.
4. Provide guards at least 34 inches high on the open sides of stairs.
Measure the guards vertically from the nosing of the treads.
5. Limit the height of guards that are also handrails to not more than 38
inches. The IRC does not limit guard height other than for handrails.
Install a handrail on stairways with at least 4 risers. Provide a continuous handrail beginning above
the first riser and ending at or above the last riser.
Install handrails at least 34" and not more than 38" above a sloped line connecting the stair treads.
The maximum space between guard vertical members is a 4"-diameter sphere. The maximum space for
3
stairway guards is a 4 /8" diameter sphere.
Install handrails that have the required gripping surface dimensions. Any of the above profiles will
suffice. Handrails using 2 × 4 and larger lumber are too large to be grippable and thus do not meet the

dimensions standard.

CONTINUITY
1. Run the handrail continuously from at least a point directly above the
top riser of the flight of stairs to at least a point directly above the
lowest riser of the flight.
2. Provide all handrails with a return or terminate them in a newel post,
volute, starting easing, or starting newel.
3. Project handrails at least 1 1/2 inches and not more than 4 1/2 inches
from any adjacent wall.
4. You may interrupt a handrail by a newel post at a turn.
5. Provide continuous guards for open sides of the entire flight of stairs,
even if some of the flight is less than 30 inches above an adjacent
surface.
6. You need not provide a guard if the entire flight of stairs is less than 30
inches above an adjacent surface. This applies even if a lower flight of
stairs connects with an upper flight of stairs at a landing. Example: a
landing occurs before the last 3 risers of a stairway. The last 3 risers are
a separate flight of stairs and do not require a guard or a handrail.
SHAPE
1. Use material with an outside diameter at least 1 1/4 inches and not more
than two inches for Type 1 circular handrails.
2. Use material with a perimeter dimension of at least four inches and not
more than 6 1/4 inches and a cross-section dimension of not more than 2
1/4 inches for Type 1 non-circular handrails.

3. Provide Type 2 handrails that have a perimeter dimension greater than 6

1/4 inches with a graspable finger recess on both sides of the profile.

4. Apply handrail shape requirements to interior and to exterior stairways,

including stairways for decks and balconies.
OPENINGS
1. Do not allow openings in guards to pass a 4-inch diameter sphere.
2. Do not allow stair guard openings, such as balusters, to pass a 4 3/8-inch
diameter sphere.
3. Do not allow openings under stair guards formed by a riser, tread, and
the guard’s bottom rail to pass a 6-inch diameter sphere.
HANDRAILS & GUARDS LIVE LOADS
1. Install handrails and guards so they will resist a uniform distributed
force of at least 200 pounds per square foot applied in any direction at
any point along the top.
The maximum space in the triangle formed by a tread, riser, and stair guard bottom rail is a 6"
diameter sphere.
 Emergency Escape Openings

A n emergency escape and rescue opening, commonly called an egress

opening, is required in all bedrooms and in most basements. Codes are
very specific concerning the minimum clearances of the openings and
how they can be accessed, as well as how they can be exited from the
exterior. Rooms that are not intended for sleeping typically do not need to
meet egress requirements. You may use an operable window or you may
use a side-hinged or sliding door as the escape opening.

Escape Opening Locations

1. Provide at least one escape opening in every bedroom including
bedrooms above, at, and below ground level.
2. Provide at least one escape opening in most basements. You are not
required to provide a basement escape opening if: (a) the basement area
is not more than 200 square feet, and if (b) the basement is used only to
house mechanical appliances.
3. Provide each basement bedroom with an escape opening. You are not
required to provide other escape openings in basements in addition to
the bedroom escape openings.
4. Open all escape openings directly onto an area that leads directly to a
public way. This means that escape openings cannot open onto an
enclosed courtyard or onto a similar area that does not lead directly and
without obstruction to an area that is accessible by the public.
5. You may open an escape opening under a deck or porch if: (a) the
escape opening can be opened to the full required dimensions, and if (b)
the space under the deck or porch is at least 36 inches high.
6. Note that an escape opening may be required when converting a
previously unfinished basement into finished space, especially if the
finished space is a bedroom. Verify requirements with the local building
official.
Locks & Bars on Openings
Do not cover or obstruct escape openings with locks, bars, screens, or
similar devices unless they can be operated from the inside without
tools, keys, lock combinations, and special knowledge, and can be
operated with the same force required to open the escape opening.
Egress windows allow emergency exit from a structure and must meet certain minimum size and
accessibility codes. They are required primarily in bedrooms and basements.

Escape Opening Size

1. Provide escape openings with a clear opening area of at least 5.7 square
feet. This includes escape openings above and below grade level. You
may reduce an escape opening at grade level to at least 5.0 square feet.
 2. Provide each escape opening with a clear opening at least 24 inches
high and at least 20 inches wide.
3. Locate the sill of each escape opening not more than 44 inches above
the finished floor. Measure the sill height from the finished floor to the
where the clear opening begins (the bottom of the opening).
4. Measure escape opening height and width using the clear opening area.
Clear opening area does not include obstructions such as window
frames.

In order to satisfy building codes for egress, a basement window must have a minimum opening of 5.7
sq. ft. through one sash, with at least 20" of clear width and 24" of clear height. Casement, double-

hung, and sliding window styles can be used, as long as their dimensions for width and height meet

these minimum requirements. Note: If window opening is the minimum in both dimensions it will be too

small; at least one dimension must be more than minimum to meet code requirement.

Window Wells
1. Provide all below-grade escape openings with a window well.
 2. Provide each window well with at least 9 square feet clear opening area
and a depth and width of at least 36 inches in each direction.
3. Install a permanent ladder if the window well bottom is more than 44
inches below grade. Ladder rung specifications include: a rung width at
least 12 inches, a rung projection at least three inches from the window
well wall, a rung vertical spacing not more than 18 inches apart, and a
ladder may encroach not more than 6 inches into minimum window
well width or depth dimension.

Egress window wells must be at least 36" wide and project 36" from the foundation. Those deeper than
44" must have a means of escape, such as a tiered design that forms steps or an attached ladder.

Drainage at the bottom of the well should be connected to the foundation drain or to another approved

drainage system.
 Egress Doors

T he egress door is a door to the outside that meets all egress door
requirements for accessibility and opening size. Every dwelling must
have at least one egress door. The egress door is usually the front door.
Other exterior doors need not comply with the egress door requirements.
EGRESS DOOR REQUIREMENTS
1. Provide at least one egress door that: (a) is accessible from all areas of
the home, and (b) allows people to go directly outside without traveling
through the garage.
2. Install a side-hinged egress door that provides a clear opening at least
32 inches wide and 78 inches high. Measure door width between the
face of the door when open to 90° and the outer edge of the door stop.
Measure door height between the top of the threshold and the bottom of
the stop. This means that a 36 inch by 80 inch door is required when
using standard size doors.
3. Provide a landing on the interior and exterior sides of the door. Build
each landing at least as wide as the door. Example: if the door is 36
inches wide, then build each landing at least 36 inches wide. Build each
landing at least 36 inches deep, measured in the direction of travel.
4. Build the interior and exterior landings not more than 1 1/2 inches below
the top of the threshold.
5. You may build the exterior landing not more than 7 3/4 inches below the
top of the threshold, if the egress door does not swing over the landing.
You may build the exterior landing with not more than a 2 percent slope
away from the door. You may have a storm door or a screen door swing
over any landing.
6. Provide a ramp or a stairway to any egress door that is not at grade
level.
 Egress Door Lock
Do not install a double cylinder dead bolt lock or any other lock or
device that requires use of a key, tool, or any special knowledge or
effort to open the egress door. This includes screen and security doors.

VIOLATION! Use only thumb-latch deadbolts on egress doors.

Build a landing at least 36" deep on both sides of the egress door. You may build the exterior landing

not more than 7 3/4" below the top of the threshold.

 Exterior Doors

A landing area is required on both sides of exterior doors.

Exterior Door Landing Requirements

1. Provide a landing on the interior and exterior sides of exterior doors.
2. Build each landing at least as wide as the door served. Example: if the
door is 36 inches wide, then build each landing at least 36 inches wide.
3. Build each landing at least 36 inches deep, measured in the direction of
travel.
4. Build each landing not more than 1 1/2 inches below the top of the
threshold.
5. You may build the exterior landing with not more than a 2 percent slope
away from the door.
6. You are not required to build a landing on the exterior side of a door if:
a stairway of not more than two risers is on the exterior side, and if the
exterior door does not swing over the stairway.
 7. You may build an exterior landing not more than 7 3/4 inches below the
top of the door threshold if the exterior door does not swing over the
landing.
8. Provide a ramp or a stairway to any exterior door that is not at grade
level.
9. You may have a storm door or a screen door swing over any stairway
and landing.
10. You are not required to build a landing on the exterior side of a door that
opens to a narrow above-grade balcony or to a similar structure.

Site Address
Install approved building address numbers or letters that are clearly
legible from the road fronting the property. This is so emergency
responders can quickly locate the property. Make the letters and/or
numbers Arabic type that are at least 4 inches tall and at least 1/2 inch
wide. Make the letters or numbers contrast with the background.
 Door & Window Hazards

Y ou may have seen pictures of people severely cut when they fell or
were pushed through doors and windows containing regular glass.
Regular glass usually breaks into large pieces that can cause severe
injury. Safety glass shatters into very small pieces that are less likely to
cause severe cuts.
General codes designate several locations as hazardous when people
could fall or be pushed through glass. These locations are mostly near
doors, near water, and near stairs. A large window where the sill is close to
the floor is also a hazardous location.
Safety glazing usually means tempered glass; however, other materials
also qualify. This is why it is called safety glazing, not safety glass. Most
safety glazing should be identified with permanent writing in one corner of
the glazing. This writing can be very difficult to see, so look closely before
deciding that glazing is not safety glazing.
Another window hazard involves children falling from windows where
the sill is close to the floor. Recent general codes require a mechanism that
prevents a child from opening these windows enough so that they can climb
through them and fall.
Safety glazing and fall hazard rules are complicated and have many
exceptions. Our objective here is to introduce the subject and point out
some hazardous locations that you might encounter if you remodel or add to
your home.
Laminated glass is one type of safety glazing that has a clear membrane in the center layer to keep the
shattered glass more or less in place when it breaks. Tempered glass is another common type of safety

glazing.

SAFETY GLAZING IN & NEAR DOORS

1. Use safety glazing in doors including swinging and sliding doors. Doors
include doors to the outside and interior doors such as French doors.
Exceptions include decorative glazing such as stained glass and glazing
in very small openings in the door.
 2. Use safety glazing in windows that are within 24 inches on either side
of a door. Exceptions include decorative glazing and windows when the
bottom edge of the glazing is located 60 inches or more above the
walking surface.

The sidelights on both sides of the door should contain safety glazing. Safety glazing is not required in
the transom above the door.
Windows along stairways and at landings should contain safety glazing if the bottom edge of the
glazing is less than 36" above the stair walking surface.

SAFETY GLAZING NEAR STAIRS AND IN GUARDS

1. Use safety glazing in guards including guards at decks, balconies, raised
walkways, and similar locations.
2. Use safety glazing in stairway handrail guards.
3. Use safety glazing in windows within stairways when the bottom edge
of the glazing is less than 36 inches above the adjacent walking surface.
Exceptions include if a handrail is between the stairs and the window
and if the window is 36 inches or more away from the nearest part of
the stairs.
 4. Use safety glazing in windows within 60 inches from the last tread at
the bottom of a stairway when the bottom of the glazing is less than 36
inches above the adjacent walking surface.

Windows above bathtubs and showers should contain safety glazing unless the bottom of the glazing
is located 60" or more above the tub or shower floor.

SAFETY GLAZING NEAR WET SURFACES

1. Use safety glazing in bathtub and shower doors and enclosures.
2. Use safety glazing in walls, enclosures, and fences that are less than 60
inches horizontally from the edge of bathtubs, showers, swimming
pools, whirlpool tubs, hot tubs, saunas, and steam rooms. Exceptions
include windows when the bottom edge of the glazing is located 60
inches or more above the walking surface and windows that do not face
the bathtub, etc.
WINDOW FALL PROTECTION
1. Install a means to restrict the distance that an operable window can open
so that a 4-inch diameter sphere cannot pass when: (a) the top of the
window sill is less than 24 inches above the finished floor, and (b) the
top of the window sill is more than 72 inches above the exterior surface
below.
2. You may comply with this provision by permanently restricting the
window opening distance, except where the window serves as an
emergency escape and rescue opening.
3. You may comply with this provision by installing a window opening
control device that complies with ASTM F2090.
 Ventilation & Exhaust

C ontrolling moisture levels in a home is important for your comfort and

health, as well as for the health of your home. Although inadequate
moisture levels can cause discomfort for some people and can cause
furnishings and some construction materials to become brittle, it is not
usually a significant risk to you or to your home, so the IRC has no
provisions governing minimum moisture and humidity levels. Too much
moisture, however, can be a significant risk to you and your home, so the
IRC has several provisions governing the removal of excess moisture.
Current indoor air quality best practices also encourage removal of excess
moisture and other contaminants from the home.
The greatest threat posed by water vapor is that it provides one of the
three things that mold needs to grow. The other two are the correct
temperature and food. Mold grows at the same temperatures we humans
prefer, so there is little we can do about that. Because mold eats almost any
wood-based product and our homes are filled with these products, there is
little we can do about the food risk. The one thing we can do something
about is moisture.
Water vapor travels in the air. When water vapor condenses on visible
surfaces, it provides the moisture that mold needs. We then see what is
often called mildew. Mildew is another name for mold. When water vapor
travels into attics and wall cavities, it can condense and provide moisture
for mold. Mold can grow in these hidden spaces for long periods before it is
discovered. Damage to the home can be significant when mold grows for
long periods of time.
Water vapor is always present in every home. Some water vapor occurs
naturally in the air. We introduce some water vapor into the home with
every breath we take. Much of the water vapor in a home results from
activities such as bathing, cooking, and clothes drying. The IRC has
provisions that help remove the excess water vapor caused by these
activities.
Moisture exhaust requirements generally are met with a combination of natural (windows and doors)
and mechanical (ventilation fans) solutions. The bathroom and kitchen are the two rooms where

ventilation is most critical.

Air Movement Requirements

1. Provide outdoor light and ventilation to bathrooms, toilet rooms, and
similar areas using windows or doors containing glazing. Provide a total
glazing area of at least 3 square feet with at least 1 1/2 square feet
operable. Open the glazing directly onto a street, public alley, or onto a
yard or court located on the same lot. Best practice is to equip every
bathroom with a ventilation fan.
2. You may replace the glazing with artificial light and exhaust ventilation.
Provide exhaust ventilation of at least 20 cubic feet per minute
continuous ventilation or at least 50 cubic feet per minute for a switched
ventilation fan.
3. Comply with the ventilation fan manufacturer’s instructions or general
codes about exhaust duct type and length. Three-inch diameter duct may
not be allowed as an exhaust duct. Four-inch diameter or larger duct
may be required.
4. Discharge bathroom and toilet room ventilation fan exhaust directly
outdoors. Discharging a ventilation fan exhaust duct into or toward an
attic, soffit, or crawl space ventilation opening does not comply with
this provision.
5. Do not recirculate air from bathrooms within a residence or into another
residence.
6. Provide an automatic or gravity-operated damper for exhaust systems
that will close the damper when the system is not operating.
7. Do not direct outdoor exhaust openings, such as from bathroom and
kitchen exhaust fans, onto a walkway.
8. Protect outdoor air intake and exhaust openings with a corrosion-
resistant screen having openings at least 1/4 and not more than 1/2 inch
or by louvers, dampers, or similar means. This does not include clothes
dryer exhaust openings. Do not cover clothes dryer exhaust openings
with a screen.
9. Protect outdoor openings against local weather conditions such as from
rain and snow infiltration and from blockage by snow accumulation.
 Vent Fan Labels

Check the information label attached to each ventilation fan unit. Bathroom fans that are
switch-operated should be rated at least 50 cubic feet per minute (cfm). Baths over 100 square

feet or with multiple tubs or showers should have higher-capacity fans. The sone rating refers to

the relative quietness of the unit, rated on a scale of 1 to 7. (Quieter fans have lower sone

ratings.)
Terminate exhaust ducts directly outdoors with a cover (usually louvered) that protects against
weather and pest infiltration.
VIOLATION! Do not terminate exhausts into attic and crawl space areas.

Kitchen Exhaust Requirements

GENERAL INSTALLATION REQUIREMENTS
1. You need not install either a recirculating or an externally ducted
kitchen exhaust hood; however, externally ducted kitchen exhaust hoods
are recommended. Verify kitchen exhaust hood requirements with the
local building official because interpretation of kitchen exhaust hood
requirements can vary among jurisdictions.
2. Terminate a kitchen exhaust hood duct, if any, to the outdoors when
natural or mechanical ventilation is not provided in the kitchen area.
Natural ventilation usually means an operable window in the kitchen
area. Mechanical ventilation may be provided by a ducted central
heating system that is connected to a ventilation opening terminating
 outdoors. Mechanical ventilation may be provided by a heat recovery or
energy recovery ventilation system. Most homes have either natural or
mechanical ventilation in the kitchen area, so external discharge of
range hoods is rarely required.
3. You may, but are not required to, install a recirculating kitchen hood if
the kitchen is provided with natural or mechanical ventilation.
4. Provide a backdraft damper at the duct termination or other approved
location. Many kitchen hoods and cabinet-mounted microwave ovens
have backdraft dampers integrated into the appliances.
ABOVE-GROUND EXHAUST DUCT CONSTRUCTION
1. Use smooth, single-wall galvanized steel, stainless steel, or copper to
construct kitchen exhaust ducts.
2. Seal the exhaust duct air tight to avoid leaking flammable grease into
wall or floor cavities or between the kitchen exhaust hood and the
kitchen cabinet.
Use smooth-wall galvanized metal ductwork for range hood ducts, and be sure to seal the joints very
well so the airborne grease doesn’t escape into walls and cabinets, where it poses a fire hazard.
Externally exhausted range hoods are not required by Codes except in very rare situations. Typical
cabinet-mounted models like the one seen here are quite popular, however, and are recommended

whenever practical.

EXHAUST DUCT TERMINATION

1. Terminate kitchen exhaust hood ducts outside the building. Outside the
building does not include attics and crawl spaces.
2. Provide a backdraft damper at the duct termination or other approved
location. Many kitchen exhaust hoods and cabinet-mounted microwave
ovens have backdraft dampers integrated into the equipment.
KITCHEN EXHAUST FAN RATES
1. Provide an exhaust rate of at least 100 cubic feet per minute for
intermittently operated exhaust hoods or at least 20 cubic feet per
minute for continuously operating exhaust hoods.
2. Provide makeup air for exhaust fans with a capacity of more than 400
cubic feet per minute. Install a gravity operated or an electrically
operated damper to open and close the takeup air duct.

Downdraft ventilation is a space-saving alternative to exhaust hoods, often used on kitchen islands
with built-in cooktops. It is less efficient but will mitigate some of the cooking vapors and airborne

particulate matter.
REPLACING A RANGE HOOD WITH A MICROWAVE OVEN
This is a popular upgrade that is often installed incorrectly. Failure to read
and follow manufacturer’s instructions can be a fire hazard and a burn
hazard. It can also reduce the microwave’s service life. The following
address some of the most frequent installation errors.
1. Leave enough space between the microwave and the range top. A
typical instruction is to have at least 66 inches between the floor and the
top of the microwave, at least 30 inches between the range top and the
bottom of the cabinet, and at least 2 inches between the bottom of the
microwave and the range control panel.
2. Connect the microwave to a dedicated 120-volt circuit. Most
microwaves should be served by a 20-amp circuit.
3. Plug a microwave that comes with an attachment plug into a receptacle.
Do not connect the microwave directly to the electrical wires and do not
use an extension cord.
4. Use the size and type of exhaust duct material and termination fittings
specified by the microwave manufacturer. Do not exceed the exhaust
duct effective length specified by the manufacturer. Effective length
adds for the losses created by elbows and termination fittings.
5. Connect the microwave to the exhaust duct. Do not simply blow the
exhaust at the hole in the cabinet where the exhaust duct is located.
6. Install the backdraft damper if one is supplied with the microwave.
Many manufacturers recommend at least 66" between the floor and the top of the microwave.

Clothes Dryer Exhaust Requirements

GENERAL INSTALLATION REQUIREMENTS
1. Construct, install, and terminate clothes dryer exhaust ducts according
to the clothes dryer manufacturer’s installation instructions. If the
clothes dryer manufacturer is not known during construction, use
general requirements.
 2. Do not connect clothes dryer exhaust ducts to any other system such as
bathroom exhaust fan ducts, plumbing vents, and fuel-burning
equipment vents and flues.
3. Do not install clothes dryer exhaust ducts in or through any
fireblocking, draftstopping, or fire-resistance rated assembly unless the
duct is constructed and installed to maintain the code that requires
fireblocking or draftstopping.
4. Do not run clothes dryer exhaust ducts into or through other ducts or
plenums. Example: do not run a clothes dryer exhaust duct into or
through an HVAC supply or return duct or into or through a combustion
air duct.
5. Install the clothes dryer exhaust duct during construction if space for a
clothes dryer is provided.
6. You may install a dryer duct booster fan to extend the dryer exhaust
duct’s length. Install the fan according to the fan manufacturer’s
instruction.
DUCT CONSTRUCTION
1. Use a 4-inch diameter smooth wall metal duct that is at least 28 gage,
unless the clothes dryer manufacturer’s instructions allow another
diameter.
2. Install duct joints so that the inside part of the joint fits into the outside
part of the joint in the direction of the air flow.
3. Fasten duct joints with mechanical fasteners such as screws or pop
rivets. Do not use screws or other fasteners that penetrate the duct more
than 1/8 inch. Longer fasteners could trap lint.
4. Seal the duct joints with metal tape or mastic.
5. Support the duct at least every 12 feet. Joints and elbows are vulnerable
areas for separation.
6. Protect the duct with at least 16-gauge shield plates if the duct is within
1 1/4 inches from the edge of a framing member. Extend the shield plate
at least 2 inches above sole plates and below top plates. Protect the duct
with shield plates at any other location where it is likely to be penetrated
by fasteners.
Use strap hangers to support rigid ducts. Install hangers at joints at intervals not exceeding 12 ft. Tip:

position the hangers so the ductwork doesn’t make contact with floor joists or other structural members.

DUCT LENGTH
1. Do not exceed 35 feet developed length between the beginning of the
clothes dryer duct and the duct termination, unless the clothes dryer
manufacturer’s installation instructions allow a longer length.
Developed length means the straight line length of the duct, reduced by
bends in the duct. The clothes dryer manufacturer is rarely known
during construction, so the manufacturer’s installation instruction
exception rarely applies.
2. Add 2 1/2 feet for every 45-degree bend and 5 feet for every 90-degree
bend to the dryer duct’s developed length. You may use the
manufacturer-provided developed length for smooth radius bends. You
may use the IRC table for smooth radius bend developed length if the
manufacturer’s instructions are not available.
3. Do not include the transition duct in the dryer duct developed length.
4. Locate a permanent label within 6 feet of the clothes dryer exhaust duct
connection that shows the exhaust duct’s developed length. This
requirement applies only when the duct developed length is more than
35 feet.
Limit clothes dryer exhaust duct developed length to not more than 35 ft.

DUCT TERMINATION
1. Terminate clothes dryer exhaust ducts outside the building. Outside the
building does not include attics and crawl spaces.
2. Locate the clothes dryer exhaust duct termination at least 3 feet from:
(a) the property line; and (b) operable and non-operable openings.
Operable openings include windows and doors. Non-operable openings
include eave ventilation openings and combustion air openings. This
provision does not apply if the clothes dryer manufacturer’s installation
instructions allow other locations. The clothes dryer manufacturer is
rarely known during construction, so the manufacturer’s installation
instruction exception rarely applies.
3. Provide a backdraft damper at the duct termination or at another
approved location.
4. Do not install a screen at the exhaust duct termination. A screen will
trap lint.
Locate the duct termination vent at least 3 ft. away from any opening into the building.

TRANSITION DUCT
1. The transition duct is the duct (usually flexible duct) between the dryer
and the start of the smooth wall dryer exhaust duct.
2. Limit the transition duct length to 8 feet.
3. Use only one piece of transition duct. Do not splice together two or
more lengths of transition duct material.
4. Do not run the transition duct through walls or in concealed spaces.
Use and install transition ducts according to the clothes dryer’s instructions. Replace plastic transition
ducts (bottom in photo) with flexible metal transition ducts (top in photo).
Cut the transition duct to the shortest length possible. Eliminate bends and kinks that will reduce air
flow.

Clothes Dryer Makeup Air

1. Provide makeup air for clothes dryers that exhaust more than 200 cubic
feet per minute. General codes do not specify how to provide makeup
air or specify that the makeup air come from outdoors.
2. Provide a net free opening of at least 100 square inches when clothes
dryers are installed in closets or provide makeup air by other approved
means.
 Smoke & Carbon Monoxide Alarms

S moke alarms and carbon monoxide (CO) alarms are required in new
construction. Combination smoke and CO alarms are not preferred
because the service life of the different alarms are different, meaning
that one alarm could fail before the other.
You should replace old smoke and carbon monoxide alarms. Smoke
alarms have a useful life of about 10 years. Carbon monoxide alarms have a
useful life of about 7 years. Alarms that are older than this may not detect
smoke and carbon monoxide when needed, providing you with a false sense
of security. Pressing the test button is not a guarantee that the alarm sensor
is working; only the sounding device may be working.
Smoke alarms and carbon monoxide (CO) alarms are required in new construction. Carbon monoxide
alarms (A) are triggered by the presence of carbon monoxide gas. Smoke alarms are available in

photoelectric and ionizing models. In ionizing alarms (B), a small amount of current flows in an

ionization chamber. When smoke enters the chamber, it interrupts the current, triggering the alarm.

Photoelectric alarms (C) rely on a beam of light, which when interrupted by smoke triggers an alarm.

Heat alarms (D) sound an alarm when they detect areas of high heat in the room. Also available are

combination smoke/CO alarms and ionizing/photoelectric smoke alarms. The combination

ionizing/photoelectric alarms are recommended because they detect both smoke and light from fires.
Install smoke alarms in and near all bedrooms and on all levels of a home.

Smoke Alarm Required Locations

1. Locate a smoke alarm: (a) in every bedroom, (b) outside all bedroom
areas in the immediate vicinity (usually about 10 feet) of all bedrooms,
and (c) on every level in the home, including basements, and (d) within
3 feet horizontally from the door of a bathroom containing a tub or a
shower.
2. Do not install an ionization smoke alarm closer than 20 feet horizontally
from a permanently installed cooking appliance. Do not install a
photoelectric smoke alarm closer than 6 feet horizontally from a
permanently installed cooking appliance.
3. You may substitute a security system that includes smoke alarms if it
provides the same protection as hard-wired smoke alarms. The security
system smoke alarms must: (a) comply with the National Fire
Protection Association (NFPA) 72 standard, and (b) must be a
permanent fixture in the home. Security system smoke alarms installed
as a substitute system cannot be leased. They must be a permanent part
of the home.
SMOKE ALARM LOCATIONS NOT REQUIRED
1. You are not required to locate smoke alarms: (a) in crawl spaces and in
uninhabitable attics, and (b) on the middle level of split-level homes if
smoke alarms are installed on the upper level, if the middle level is less
than one story below upper level, and if there is no door between levels.
Note that some jurisdictions require smoke alarms on all levels of a
split-level home.
2. Verify smoke alarm location requirements with your local building
official.
SMOKE ALARM POWER SOURCE
1. Install smoke alarms that take primary power from the building
electrical wiring and that have a battery backup.
2. Connect all smoke alarms together so one alarm activates all alarms
(interconnection).
3. Provide arc-fault circuit-interrupter protection for the smoke alarm
primary power.
SMOKE ALARM INSTALLATION
1. Install smoke alarms according to manufacturer’s instructions. This
often includes locating the smoke alarm on the ceiling or on a wall not
more than 12 inches from the ceiling. Do not locate a smoke alarm
closer than 4 inches to the intersection of a wall and ceiling. The smoke
alarm may not detect smoke in this dead air zone.
SMOKE ALARM UPDATES WHEN REMODELING
1. Update the entire smoke alarm and carbon monoxide alarm system to
current code requirements (including smoke alarm interconnection and
hard-wiring) when building alterations or additions require a permit or
when bedrooms are added. This update requirement does not apply to:
(a) exterior work such as roofing, siding, window, and door repair and
replacement, (b) installation of or repairs to plumbing and HVAC
systems, and (c) situations where access does not exist to allow
installing electrical wires that would provide power and interconnection
to the smoke alarms.
2. Verify requirements and exceptions with the local building official.
Interpretation and enforcement of this provision varies between
 jurisdictions. Battery power and wireless interconnection may be
allowed.
CARBON MONOXIDE ALARM REQUIREMENTS
1. Install carbon monoxide alarms in homes equipped with fuel-fired
appliances, such as gas and oil-fired furnaces, and in homes with an
attached garage or a fireplace. The alarms must comply with UL2034.
2. Install an alarm outside of bedroom areas in the immediate vicinity
(usually about 10 feet) of all bedrooms. Connection of carbon monoxide
alarms to each other is not required.
3. Install carbon monoxide alarms in a bedroom if a fuel-fired appliance is
located in the bedroom or in an attached bathroom.
4. Install carbon monoxide alarms according to manufacturer’s
instructions.

Do not locate a smoke alarm closer than 4" to the intersection of a wall and ceiling. The smoke alarm
may not detect smoke in this dead air zone.
Structural Components

A safe and healthy building begins with a solidly built structure. The
building’s foundation should rest on stable soil and should be strong
enough to support the home during normal conditions as well as
during disasters such as hurricanes and earthquakes. The building’s floors,
walls, and roof should be secured to the foundation and to each other and
should be strong enough to support the home during extreme conditions.
This chapter will help you understand basic structural requirements for
building as defined by the building codes. The intent is to help you identify
work that may violate building codes so that you can bring it to the
attention of a contractor or other qualified professional. Except for projects
such as simple decks and storage sheds, you should seek guidance from
qualified professionals before using the information in this chapter to
design you own buildings or to perform structural remodeling on existing
buildings.

In this chapter:
• Foundations
• Crawlspaces
• Decks
• Floor Systems
• Wall Systems
• Wall Penetration Flashing
• Roof Systems

Special Requirements for High Wind & Seismic Risk Areas

SEISMIC DESIGN AREAS
1. Provide increased strength and structural integrity for foundations,
walls, roofs, gas pipes and appliances, and other components in seismic
design areas. Refer to the IRC and consult a qualified engineer or other
qualified professional when building in seismic design areas.
2. Verify the seismic design category with the local building official. The
following areas may be in seismic design areas: large parts of Alaska,
California, Hawaii, Nevada, Oregon, and Washington State; small parts
of Arizona, Colorado, Idaho, Montana, New Mexico, New York, and
Utah; the area near Memphis, Tennessee, and the area near Charleston,
South Carolina.
Hurricane ties. If building codes in your area require them, nail metal hurricane ties to the wall top
plates before installing the rafters.

HIGH WIND DESIGN AREAS

1. Provide increased strength and structural integrity for foundations,
walls, roofs, windows, and other components in high wind design areas.
Refer to the IRC and consult a qualified engineer or other qualified
professional when building in high wind design areas.
 2. Verify the wind design category with the local building official. The
following areas may be in high wind design areas: much of Florida and
Hawaii; the areas within about 100 miles of the coastlines of Alabama,
Alaska, Georgia, Louisiana, Mississippi, North and South Carolina,
Texas, and Virginia; the areas within about 50 miles of the coastlines of
Connecticut, Delaware, Maine, Maryland, Massachusetts, New Jersey,
New Hampshire, and New York. Several “Special Wind Areas” exist in
scattered areas of the country. These areas are mostly in mountainous
areas and are mostly in the West.

Deflection of Structural Components

Most readers should not deal with bending of structural components such as
floors, walls, ceilings, and roofs. Leave this to qualified engineers and
contractors. Because “spongy” floors and rattling walls are common
complaints, this section explains some basic concepts involved in deflection
and helps you understand when deflection may be excessive.
DEFLECTION & LOADS DEFINITIONS
Deflection is when a component of a building bends under a load. The
component can be a single component, such as a floor joist, or it can be a
system, such as a floor or a wall. Deflection causes a component to
compress on one side (compression) and expand on the other side (tension).
A load is a force (weight) placed on a component of a building.
Example: a building’s foundation carries the load of the entire building. The
dead load is the weight of the construction materials, such as drywall,
shingles, siding, and floor coverings, and the weight of fixed equipment,
such as a water heater. The live load is the weight of people and furnishings
that occupy a building. A point load is a load in a small area. The heel of a
high-heel shoe is an example of a point load. Environmental loads include
wind, snow, and forces created during earthquakes.
A point load is a type of live load that is concentrated in a small area, such as a footstep. Point loads
are temporary and in many cases they can exceed the deflection minimums without causing any

particular problems.

Deflection Under Live Load

1. Install structural components, such as joists, studs, and rafters, so that
they will not bend more than the amount shown in Table 1 under an
evenly distributed live load. L is the unsupported length of the
component in inches. H is the unsupported height of the component in
inches. Example: for a bedroom floor, the general codes assume that a
live load of at least 30 pounds of people, floor coverings, and
furnishings will be placed over each square foot of the floor area.
Example: the maximum deflection of bedroom floor joists with the
length between supports of 180 inches would be 180/360, or 1/2 inch.
 Table 1: Deflection Under Live Load
STRUCTURAL COMPONENT MAXIMUM DEFLECTION (INCHES)
Rafters with greater than 3/12 slope and no L/180
attached ceiling finish
Interior walls H/180
Floors and plastered ceilings L/360
Exterior walls with plaster or stucco finish H/360
Other structural members L/240
Ceilings with flexible finishes such as drywall L/240
Exterior walls with flexible finishes such as H/180
vinyl or fiber cement siding and drywall inside

Deflection Discussion
Walking on a floor or slamming a door hard does not generate the live
load assumed in deflection tables. In fact, the load created by walking
on a floor or slamming a door may be greater than the design live load
at the point where the load is applied. Thus, even a floor that feels
“spongy” or a wall that shakes often may not exceed the maximum
deflection allowed. If a “spongy” floor or a shaky wall is not causing
other problems, such as cracking drywall or plaster, then it is probably
not exceeding the maximum allowed deflection and should be of little
concern.
Note that the maximum deflection allowed by general codes does
not apply to some rigid floor coverings, such as tile. Refer to the
manufacturer’s design and installation instructions when installing stiff
finish materials. The manufacturer may stipulate a maximum deflection
that’s below the amount allowed by codes.
 Foundations
SOIL LOAD-BEARING CAPACITIES
1. Place structural footings on undisturbed soil of known bearing capacity
or on a bed of fill material approved by an engineer.
2. Have a geotechnical engineer evaluate the soil in areas known to have
expansive or other unfavorable soils or if the soil-bearing capacity is
unknown. Beware of clay soils. Some clay soils are unstable and can
cause serious foundation problems.
3. Use the following table to estimate soil-bearing capacity if the soil type
is known and if the local building official approves.
 Table 2: Soil Load-bearing Capacities
SOIL TYPE PRESUMED SOIL BEARING CAPACITY
Bedrock (e.g., granite) 12000 psi
Sedimentary type rock 4000 psi
Gravel & sandy gravel 3000 psi
Sand, silty sand, clayey sand, silty gravel, 2000 psi
clayey gravel
Clay, sandy clay, silty clay, clayey silt, silt, 1500 psi
sandy silt
 Common Soil Types

Gravel and sandy gravel soils have a presumed 3,000 psi load-bearing capacity.
Sandy soils have a presumed 2,000 psi load-bearing capacity.
Clay and silt soils have a presumed 1,500 psi load-bearing capacity.
 Footing Width & Depth
FOOTING WIDTH
1. Use the tables in general codes to determine the minimum footing width
and depth required to support load-bearing walls. You may also use
material found in The American Concrete Institute document ACI 332
(see Resources, page 233).
2. Refer to general codes for special footing and footing reinforcement
requirements in seismic design areas.
FOOTING THICKNESS & SLOPE
1. Make spread footings at least six inches thick.
2. Project spread footings at least 2 inches beyond the foundation wall. Do
not project the footing beyond the foundation wall more than the
thickness of the footing. Example: if the footing is 6 inches thick, then
the edge of the footing should be not more than 6 inches beyond the
edge of the foundation wall.
3. Locate the bottom of footings at least 12 inches below finish grade or
below the local frost line, whichever is deeper. This does not apply to
accessory buildings with an area 600 square feet or less and an eave
height of 10 feet or less, and this does not apply to decks not supported
by the home.
4. Do not place footings on frozen ground unless the frozen condition is
permanent (permafrost).
5. Make the top surface of footings level.
6. You may slope the bottom of footings not more than 10 percent, without
reducing the minimum thickness.
7. Make step footing thickness at least six inches. Make step footing
height not more than the length of the footing above the step.
Leveling footing forms is very important. Measure footing depth and width at the top of the forms.
Use Tables 3 and 4 to determine footing width. Here, batterboards and strings are used to level footing

forms.
Spread footing for basement or crawlspace (A), interior load-bearing wall footing (B), or step footing
(C).

Specifications for Foundation Concrete

CONCRETE IN BASEMENT SLABS & INTERIOR SLABS-ON-GRADE (NOT GARAGE FLOORS)
1. Use at least 2,500 psi concrete in all weathering potential environments.
2. Use air-entrained concrete (between 5% and 7% total air content) in
severe weathering potential environments if the concrete may be subject
to freezing and thawing during construction.
Confirm with the concrete provider that the product you’ve ordered meets specs for your area, and be
sure to have your forms inspected and approved well in advance of the delivery.

CONCRETE IN FOUNDATION WALLS, EXTERIOR WALLS & OTHER VERTICAL CONCRETE

EXPOSED TO WEATHER
1. Use at least 2,500 psi concrete in environments with negligible
weathering potential.
2. Use at least 3,000 psi air-entrained concrete (between 5 and 7 percent
total air content) in moderate and severe weathering potential
environments.
CONCRETE IN PORCHES, GARAGE & CARPORT FLOORS & OTHER HORIZONTAL CONCRETE
EXPOSED TO WEATHER
1. Use at least 2,500 psi concrete in environments with negligible
weathering potential.
2. Use at least 3,000 psi air-entrained concrete (between 5 and 7 percent
total air content) in moderate weathering potential environments.
3. Use at least 3,500 psi air-entrained concrete (between 5 and 7 percent
total air content) in severe weathering potential environments.
4. You may use at least 4,000 psi air-entrained concrete with at least 3
percent total air content in steel-troweled garage floors in moderate and
severe weathering potential environments.
FOUNDATION ANCHORS
1. Install at least 1/2-inch diameter bolts in exterior footings, stem walls,
basement walls, interior braced walls, monolithic slabs, and other places
to which sill or sole plates for load-bearing and braced walls will be
attached.
2. Install and tighten a nut and washer on each bolt. Verify washer size
with your local building official.
3. Locate the bolts at least seven bolt diameters and not more than 12
inches from the ends of each plate and not more than every six feet on-
center in between.
4. Locate bolts in the middle third of the plate.
5. Install at least two bolts per plate section.
6. Embed the bolts at least seven inches into the foundation.
7. Use approved fasteners to anchor the sole plates of interior load-bearing
walls that are not braced walls.
8. You may substitute anchor straps for bolts if they provide equal
anchorage. Straps are often installed not more than every six feet.
9. Refer to general codes for foundation anchor exceptions involving
braced walls 24-inches long and shorter. These walls may require 1 or 0
foundation anchors.
Install 1/2" diameter anchor bolts every 6 ft., not more than 12" from the end of each bottom plate,

and in the middle 1/3 of the plate.

You may substitute anchor straps for anchor bolts.
 Crawlspaces
CRAWLSPACE VENTILATED TO EXTERIOR
1. Provide at least one square foot of net free ventilation area for every 150
square feet of crawlspace floor in a ventilated crawlspace. You may
reduce the net free ventilation area to at least one square foot for every
1,500 square feet of crawlspace floor if you cover the floor with a vapor
retarder such as six-mil polyethylene sheeting.
2. Install covers such as screens or grates in the ventilation openings. Use
screens, grates, grills, or plates with openings at least 1/8 inch and not
more than 1/4 inch.
3. Subtract the space used by opening covers from the net free ventilation
area of a ventilation opening. Example: a one square foot opening may
be reduced to an effective 2/3 square foot opening when covered by a
cast iron grill or grate. The cover manufacturer’s instructions should
indicate the cover’s opening reduction amount.
4. Locate a ventilation opening not more than three feet from every corner
of the crawlspace wall.
5. There is considerable controversy about the effectiveness of crawlspace
ventilation, particularly in warm humid climates. Check with a qualified
energy efficiency professional before adding insulation between floor
joists in crawlspaces. Check the condition of existing floor joist
insulation in crawlspaces at least annually.
Unventilated crawlspaces are recommended by experts for most crawlspaces.

UNVENTILATED CRAWLSPACE
1. You may eliminate crawlspace ventilation openings by insulating the
crawlspace walls or floor system as required by general codes and by
installing all the following moisture control and ventilation components:
(a) cover all exposed dirt in the crawlspace floor with an approved
vapor retarder, such as six-mil polyethylene sheeting.
(b) lap all vapor retarder seams by at least six inches and seal or tape the
seams.
(c) extend the vapor retarder at least six inches up the crawlspace wall
and attach and seal the vapor retarder to the wall.
(d) provide one of the following ventilation methods:
• continuous mechanical exhaust ventilation, or
• a conditioned air supply at a rate of 1 cubic foot per minute for every
50 square feet of crawl space floor area and provide a return air
opening to the building interior.
2. Do not connect the return air opening for the building interior to a
forced-air return duct. Use an opening in the floor or use an
unpressurized duct between the crawl space and the building interior.
 3. There is some controversy about providing conditioned air to a crawl
space. Do not exceed the 1 cubic foot per minute conditioned air
ventilation rate.

Provide 1 sq. ft. of ventilation for every 150 sq. ft. of crawlspace dirt floor area or 1 square foot for
every 1,500 sq. ft. of vapor retarder covered floor area.

Unventilated and insulated crawlspaces often perform better than ventilated crawlspaces.
 Decks

M ost decks are relatively simple structures, but even a basic deck
project must conform to the requirements of building codes in your
area. In fact, virtually every aspect of your new deck—from its
location on your property to the design you choose and the materials you
buy to build it—must meet stringent guidelines for safety. Codes vary,
sometimes significantly, among jurisdictions. Your local building inspector
can provide you with a list of the relevant deck codes and help you interpret
them so you can create code-compliant plans for your deck project. You
may also want to download a free PDF copy of the “Prescriptive
Residential Deck Construction Guide” (see Resources, page 233).
Meet or exceed all lumber size codes. For example, use lumber that is at least 4 × 4" posts for decks
up to 8 feet above the footing and 6 × 6" posts for decks up to 14 feet above the footing.

GENERAL DECK BUILDING GUIDELINES

1. Use hot-dipped zinc-coated galvanized steel for all fasteners (nails and
screws) and hardware (joist hangers and support post caps and bases).
Stainless steel fasteners and hardware are recommended when building
decks near water.
 2. Use hot-dipped zinc-coated galvanized steel or flexible flashing
material when installing flashing at the deck ledger. Be sure that the
flexible flashing is approved for exposure to sunlight. Do not use
aluminum flashing.
3. Use at least #2 grade pressure-treated lumber or #2 grade naturally
durable lumber for deck structural members. You may use approved
composite materials for components like deck flooring and railings.
Read and follow manufacturer’s instructions when using composite
materials.
4. Consult with the building inspector or a qualified engineer when
building decks in seismic and high wind zones, in areas with heavy
snowfall, and when building complex decks such as multi-level decks.

Use the correct size galvanized steel or stainless steel joist hanger. Attach the joist hanger using the
fastener specified by the hanger manufacturer. Install a fastener in every round and oblong hole.
DECK LEDGER ATTACHMENT TO THE HOME
1. Install a pressure-treated Southern Pine or Hem Fir deck ledger board
that’s at least a 2 × 8 in size.
2. Secure the deck ledger to one of the following band or rim joists: (a) 2-
inch thick (1 1/2-inch actual thickness) SPF sawn lumber, (b) 1-inch
minimum thickness by 9 1/2 inches deep Douglas fir laminated veneer
lumber, or (3) another approved engineered material.
3. Secure the band or rim joist to sawn lumber joists or wood I-joists that
are perpendicular to the band or rim joist.
4. Use hold-down tension devices to provide lateral load connections if the
building floor joists are parallel to the band or rim joist or if the building
floor joists are metal plate connected trusses. You may use one of the
following methods.
(a) Install two 1,500 pound hold-down tension devices according to the
device manufacturer’s instructions and the wood I-joist
manufacturer’s instructions.
(b) Install four 750 pound hold-down tension devices.
5. Support the band or rim joist directly on the foundation. Do not support
the band or rim joist using a cantilevered structure such as a bay
window or a framed chimney. Do not support the band or rim joist on
veneer such as masonry and stone.
6. You may use other methods and materials when the details are designed
by a qualified structural engineer.
7. You may make a deck entirely self-supporting as an alternative to
attaching the deck to the home.
Do not attach the ledger directly to siding or other wall coverings. Remove all wall coverings in the
installation area so you can attach the ledger to the wall framing members. Cut the siding with a

circular saw and finish the corners with a chisel. Do not attach the ledger to brick or stone wall

coverings. A self-supporting deck may be necessary.

Hang a double joist between joists to support the deck in areas where obstructions won’t allow a
ledger.
Ledger boards should be pressure-treated lumber that’s at least 2 × 8 in size.

DECK ATTACHMENT USING SCREWS OR BOLTS

1. Install the screws or bolts in the deck ledger board and in the band joist
or rim board according to Table 5A. Stagger the screws or bolts
vertically along the length of the deck ledger board.
2. Install at least 1/2-inch hot-dipped galvanized lag screws or machine
bolts (not carriage bolts) as specified in Table 5B. Note: there are
proprietary screws that are thinner than 1/2-inch and are approved for
 attaching deck ledgers to the home. Read and follow the manufacturer’s
instructions if you use these screws.
3. Install a washer on each end of the machine bolts and a washer on the
head end of the lag screws.
4. Make the distance between the interior face of the ledger board and the
exterior face of the band board (rim joist) not more than one inch.
5. Use lag screws that are long enough to penetrate the band or rim board,
but not long enough to penetrate through the interior wall.

Install staggered fasteners on the ledger board using spacing specified in Table 5B.

DECK FOOTINGS
1. Place the bottom of footings for deck support posts at least 12 inches
below grade or below the local frost line (whichever is deeper). You do
not need to place deck footings below the frost line if the deck is not
attached to the home (but it is best practice to do so anyway).
2. Place the bottom of footings for deck support posts that are within 5 feet
from the house at the same level as the house footings.
3. Refer to DCA-6 or local codes for footing size and thickness.
4. Space footings as required for beam support. See the DECK BEAMS
section.
DECK JOISTS
1. Use the correct size joist hanger to attach joists to ledgers and beams.
2. Fasten joist hangers using the size and type of fastener specified by the
joist hanger manufacturer. In general, place a fastener in every round
and oblong hole.
3. Support joists on a joist hanger (joist should be fully seated in the
hanger), on at least 1 1/2-inches of wood, or on at least 3 inches of
concrete or masonry.
4. You may use three 8d nails to fasten joists that bear on top of a beam to
the beam if the deck is supported by the house. Best practice is to use
hurricane clips to fasten all joists to a beam.
5. Secure the rim joist to the deck floor joists using at least three 10d nails
or three #10 × 3-inch wood screws.
6. Use Table 5C or local codes to determine the correct joist span and on
center spacing.
Cantilever length should be not more than 1" of cantilever for every 4" of joist span.
Rim joist connections. Attach rim joists to the end of each joist with three #10 × 3" minimum wood
screws. Secure decking to the top of rim joists with two #10 × 3" wood screws in each piece of decking

to attach the decking to each joist.

You may toe nail joists to a beam only if the deck is attached to the house. Best practice is to secure
joists to the beam using a hurricane clip.
Ledgers and block walls. When fastening ledgers to hollow concrete block walls, the block cells in the
ledger attachment areas must be filled with concrete or grout. Secure the attachment bolts to the wall

with approved epoxy anchors with washers.

Table 5A: Location of Lag Screws and Bolts in
Band Joists and Deck Ledger Boards
Ledger
TOP EDGE ≥ 2 in.
BOTTOM EDGE ≥ 3/4 in.
ENDS ≥ 2 in. & ≤ 5 in.
ROW SPACING ≥ 1 5/8 in. & ≤ 5 in.

Dimension lumber band joist

TOP EDGE ≥ 3/4 in.
BOTTOM EDGE ≥ 2 in.
ENDS ≥ 2 in. & ≤ 5 in.
ROW SPACING ≥ 1 5/8 in. & ≤ 5 in.
Table 5B: Deck Ledger Attachment Using
Screws or Bolts
CONNECTOR SPACING O.C.
JOIST SPAN 1/2-inch lag screw with ≤ 1/2-inch sheathing
≤ 6 FT. 30"
> 6 FT. & ≤ 8 FT. 23"
> 8 FT. & ≤ 10 FT. 18"
> 10 FT. & ≤ 12 FT. 15"
> 12 FT. & ≤ 14 FT. 13"
> 14 FT. & ≤ 16 FT. 11"
> 14 FT. & ≤ 18 FT. 10"

JOIST SPAN 1/2-inch lag bolt with ≤ 1/2-inch sheathing

≤ 6 FT. 36"
> 6 FT. & ≤ 8 FT. 36"
> 8 FT. & ≤ 10 FT. 34"
> 10 FT. & ≤ 12 FT. 29"
> 12 FT. & ≤ 14 FT. 24"
> 14 FT. & ≤ 16 FT. 21"
> 14 FT. & ≤ 18 FT. 19"

1/2-inchlag bolt with ≤ 1-inch sheathing or ≤ 1/2"

JOIST SPAN sheathing and ≤ 1/2 inch stacked washers
≤ 6 FT. 36"
> 6 FT. & ≤ 8 FT. 36"
> 8 FT. & ≤ 10 FT. 29"
> 10 FT. & ≤ 12 FT. 24"
> 12 FT. & ≤ 14 FT. 21"
> 14 FT. & ≤ 16 FT. 18"
> 14 FT. & ≤ 18 FT. 16"
Table 5C: Deck Floor Joist On-Center Spacing
SPECIES #2 GRADE Southern Pine
DECK JOIST SPACING, NO CANTILEVER (INCHES)
12 16 24
JOIST SIZE 2×6
9-11 9-0 7-7
JOIST SIZE 2×8
13-1 11-10 9-8
JOIST SIZE 2 × 10
16-2 14-0 11-5
DECK JOIST SPACING, NO CANTILEVER (INCHES)
12 16 24
JOIST SIZE 2×6
6-8 6-8 6-8
JOIST SIZE 2×8
10-1 10-1 9-8
JOIST SIZE 2 × 10
14-6 14-0 11-5
Table 5D: Deck Support Post On-Center Spacing

SPECIES #2 GRADE Southern Pine

DECK JOIST SPAN LESS THAN OR EQUAL TO (FEET)
6 8 10
BEAM SIZE 2-2 × 8
8-9 7-7 6-9
BEAM SIZE 2-2 × 10
10-4 9-0 8-0
BEAM SIZE 2-2 × 12
12-2 10-7 9-5
BEAM SIZE 3-2 × 8
10-10 9-6 8-6
BEAM SIZE 3-2 × 10
13-0 11-3 10-0
BEAM SIZE 3-2 × 12
15-3 13-3 11-10

SPECIES #2 GRADE Southern Pine

DECK JOIST SPAN LESS THAN OR EQUAL TO (FEET)
12 14 16
BEAM SIZE 2-2 × 8
6-2 5-9 5-4
BEAM SIZE 2-2 × 10
7-4 6-9 6-4
BEAM SIZE 2-2 × 12
8-7 8-0 7-6
BEAM SIZE 3-2 × 8
7-9 7-2 6-8
BEAM SIZE 3-2 × 10
9-2 8-6 7-11
BEAM SIZE 3-2 × 12
10-9 10-0 9-4
 SPECIES #2 GRADE Redwood Western Cedar
DECK JOIST SPAN LESS THAN OR EQUAL TO (FEET)
6 8 10
BEAM SIZE 2-2 × 8
6-10 5-11 5-4
BEAM SIZE 2-2 × 10
8-4 7-3 6-6
BEAM SIZE 2-2 × 12
9-8 8-5 7-6
BEAM SIZE 3-2 × 8
9-8 8-6 7-7
BEAM SIZE 3-2 × 10
12-0 10-5 9-4
BEAM SIZE 3-2 × 12
13-11 12-1 10-9

SPECIES #2 GRADE Redwood Western Cedar

DECK JOIST SPAN LESS THAN OR EQUAL TO (FEET)
12 14 16
BEAM SIZE 2-2 × 8
4-10 4-6 4-1
BEAM SIZE 2-2 × 10
5-11 5-6 5-1
BEAM SIZE 2-2 × 12
6-10 6-4 5-11
BEAM SIZE 3-2 × 8
6-11 6-5 6-0
BEAM SIZE 3-2 × 10
8-6 7-10 7-4
BEAM SIZE 3-2 × 12
9-10 9-1 8-6

DECK BEAMS
1. Fasten beam members to each other using two staggered rows of at least
10d nails spaced not more than 16 inches on center.
2. Place splices between beam members above deck posts.
 3. Use Table 5D or local codes to determine the correct beam span and on
center post spacing.

Fasten beam members using two staggered rows of 10d nails at 16" on center. Fasten 3-member
beams from both sides of the beam.
One way to attach a beam to a 6 × 6 post is to notch the post and secure the beam using 1/2"
diameter galvanized steel machine bolts and washers. Or, you can mount beams on top of posts with

galvanized post cap hardware.

DECK POSTS
1. You may use 4 × 4 posts for decks up to 8 feet tall and 6 × 6 posts for
decks up to 14 feet tall. Measure post height from the top of the footing
to the bottom of the beam.
2. Consult with the building official or an engineer about deck support
posts taller than 14 feet.
3. Secure the post to the footing. You may embed the post in the footing;
however, this is not recommended because the post may deteriorate over
time. Best practice is to use a post base.
4. Secure the post to the beam as described in the photo caption above.
Joists may not be attached to posts with through bolts, even when mortises are cut into the posts to
house the joists.

DECK FLASHING
1. Install flashing between the deck ledger and the house when the deck is
attached to the house. Proper flashing is essential. A common cause of
deck collapse is the deck pulling away from rotted wood caused by
improper flashing.
You should install ledger flashing under the water-resistant barrier so that water will not leak behind
the flashing. The flashing shown here uses galvanized steel drip cap.

DECK FLOORING
1. You may use 2-inch (nominal) thick wood, 1 1/4-inch thick wood (5/4
board), or composite material as deck flooring.
2. Do not install 2-inch thick flooring across joists that are more than 24
inches on center when the flooring is perpendicular to the joist or more
than 16 inches on center when the flooring is diagonal (maximum 45
degrees) to the joist.
3. Do not install 1 1/4-inch thick flooring across joists that are more than
16 inches on center when the flooring is perpendicular to the joist or
more than 12 inches on center when the flooring is diagonal (maximum
45 degrees) to the joist.
 4. Install two 8d threaded nails or two #8 × 3-inch wood screws per
floorboard in each joist.
5. Install flooring across at least 4 joists.
6. Leave about 1/8-inch between flooring boards including at the ends to
allow for drainage and for expansion.
7. Install composite flooring according to manufacturer’s instructions.

Deck flooring made from composite materials may last longer and require less maintenance than wood
flooring. Install composite materials according to the manufacturer’s instructions.

DECK STAIRS
1. Use 2 × 12 lumber for deck stair stringers.
2. Leave at least 5 inches of uncut wood when cutting the stair risers and
treads into the stringers. Do not cut the stringer past the riser and tread.
3. Do not exceed 6 feet of unsupported length for deck stair stringers
where the risers and treads are cut into the stringer (cut stringers).
4. Do not exceed 13 feet, 3 inches of unsupported length for deck stair
stringers where the risers and treads are not cut into the stringer (solid
stringers).
5. Measure stringer length horizontally. You may support long stringers
near the center to reduce the unsupported length.
6. Provide a solid landing such as concrete at the bottom of deck stairs.
Support the stringers on the landing or by appropriate footings.
7. Support the entire stringer plumb cut at the top landing on the deck rim
board or by other approved means.
8. Attach the stringers to the top landing support using hangers or
brackets. Do not rely only on nails or screws to attach stringers to
supports.
9. Do not exceed 18 inches of unsupported length for deck stair treads
using 2 × 4 or 5/4 Southern Pine. Refer to DCA-6 for maximum stair
tread lengths for other lumber sizes and species. Install treads made
from composite materials according to manufacturer’s instructions.
Cut stringers (top) should be supported every 6 feet. Solid stringers (bottom) should be supported every
13 ft. to 3".
Attach stringers to support using a hanger, not just nails.

DECK GUARDS AND HANDRAILS

1. Refer to the guards and handrails section of this book for general
guidelines about installing guards and handrails for decks. The
guidelines for interior stairs apply to exterior stairs too.
2. Space deck guard 4 × 4 support posts at least every 6 feet. This also
applies to stair guards and handrails.
3. Secure the deck guard support posts to deck floor joists using at least
1/2-inch diameter bolts and attachment hardware. Do not rely only on
the deck band and rim boards to secure deck guard support posts.
4. Refer to DCA-6 for information about attaching deck guard support
posts if the posts do not line up with deck floor joists.
DECK BRACING
1. Install bracing between the deck support posts and the deck beam on all
decks that are more than 2 feet above the ground.
 2. Install bracing between the deck support posts and a deck rim board,
floor joist, or blocking on free standing decks that are more than 2 feet
above ground.
3. Use 2 × 4 or larger lumber for the brace.
4. Secure the braces using at least 3/8-inch diameter bolts with washers on
both ends.
5. Secure the brace at least 2 feet away from the support post.

Deck guard support posts should be secured using attachment hardware for long-term strength.
Bracing is required to reduce movement that can weaken the deck and cause it to collapse.
 Floor Systems
FLOOR JOIST SPAN TABLES (SELECTED)
1. Use 30 psf live load and 10 psf dead load for joists under bedrooms and
in attics with access by permanent stairs, in most cases. Permanent stairs
do not include pull-down folding attic ladders.
2. Use 40 psf live load and 10 psf dead load for joists under living areas,
other than bedrooms, and under decks, and balconies, in most cases.
3. Use L/360 deflection (length of joist span in inches divided by 360) for
all floor joists.
4. Refer to the IRC or to the AF&PA Span Tables for Joists and Rafters to
find joist spans not contained in the following tables.
5. Apply the following tables to floor systems framed with nominal two-
inch wide dimension lumber such as 2 × 10. An engineer must design
floor truss and I-Joist systems.
Floor joists and trusses must conform to minimum span rating codes according to how long they are
and what type of wood they are made from.
Table 6: Bedroom Floor Joist Spans at 16" On
Center
SPECIES Douglas fir
GRADE 2
2 × 8 FEET-INCHES 14-2
2 × 10 FEET-INCHES 17-5
2 × 12 FEET-INCHES 20-3

SPECIES Hem fir

GRADE 2
2 × 8 FEET-INCHES 13-2
2 × 10 FEET-INCHES 16-10
2 × 12 FEET-INCHES 19-8

SPECIES Southern pine

GRADE 2
2 × 8 FEET-INCHES 13-3
2 × 10 FEET-INCHES 15-8
2 × 12 FEET-INCHES 18-6

SPECIES Spruce-pine-fir
GRADE 2
2 × 8 FEET-INCHES 13-6
2 × 10 FEET-INCHES 17-2
2 × 12 FEET-INCHES 19-11
Install floor system framing members according to this illustration. The provisions in this section refer
to floor system framing using nominal 2"-thick dimensional lumber. Follow engineering instructions

when using floor truss and I-joist systems.

Table 7: Bedroom Floor Joist Spans at 24" On
Center
SPECIES Douglas fir
GRADE 2
2 × 8 FEET-INCHES 11-8
2 × 10 FEET-INCHES 14-3
2 × 12 FEET-INCHES 16-6

SPECIES Hem fir

GRADE 2
2 × 8 FEET-INCHES 11-4
2 × 10 FEET-INCHES 13-10
2 × 12 FEET-INCHES 16-1

SPECIES Southern pine

GRADE 2
2 × 8 FEET-INCHES 10-10
2 × 10 FEET-INCHES 12-10
2 × 12 FEET-INCHES 15-1

SPECIES Spruce-pine-fir
GRADE 2
2 × 8 FEET-INCHES 11-6
2 × 10 FEET-INCHES 14-1
2 × 12 FEET-INCHES 16-3
Table 8: Living Area Floor Joist Spans at 16" On
Center
SPECIES Douglas fir
GRADE 2
2 × 8 FEET-INCHES 12-9
2 × 10 FEET-INCHES 15-7
2 × 12 FEET-INCHES 18-1

SPECIES Hem fir

GRADE 2
2 × 8 FEET-INCHES 12-0
2 × 10 FEET-INCHES 15-2
2 × 12 FEET-INCHES 17-7

SPECIES Southern pine

GRADE 2
2 × 8 FEET-INCHES 11-10
2 × 10 FEET-INCHES 14-0
2 × 12 FEET-INCHES 16-6

SPECIES Spruce-pine-fir
GRADE 2
2 × 8 FEET-INCHES 12-3
2 × 10 FEET-INCHES 15-5
2 × 12 FEET-INCHES 17-10
Table 9: Living Area Floor Joist Spans at 24" On
Center
SPECIES Douglas fir
GRADE 2
2 × 8 FEET-INCHES 10-5
2 × 10 FEET-INCHES 12-9
2 × 12 FEET-INCHES 14-9

SPECIES Hem fir

GRADE 2
2 × 8 FEET-INCHES 10-2
2 × 10 FEET-INCHES 12-5
2 × 12 FEET-INCHES 14-4

SPECIES Southern pine

GRADE 2
2 × 8 FEET-INCHES 9-8
2 × 10 FEET-INCHES 11-5
2 × 12 FEET-INCHES 13-6

SPECIES Spruce-pine-fir
GRADE 2
2 × 8 FEET-INCHES 10-3
2 × 10 FEET-INCHES 12-7
2 × 12 FEET-INCHES 14-7
FLOOR JOISTS UNDER LOAD-BEARING WALLS
1. Install additional floor joists under load-bearing walls that run parallel
with the floor joists. Ensure that the number of joists is sufficient to
support the load imposed by the wall and the loads supported by the
wall. Parallel floor joists run the same direction as the wall being
supported. Example: install at least two floor joists under a wall
supporting a roof and at least three floor joists under a wall supporting a
full story and a roof.
2. You may separate the additional joists under a load-bearing wall, if
necessary, to fit pipes, vents, or ducts. Install solid two-inch-thick
blocking at least every four feet along the full depth of the separated
joists.
3. Place load-bearing walls that run perpendicular to the floor joists not
more than one joist depth from the supporting wall or beam below
unless the joists are sized to carry the load. Perpendicular joists run at a
90-degree angle to the wall being supported. Example: place a load-
bearing wall that runs perpendicular to 2 × 10 floor joists not more than
10 inches from the supporting wall or beam below.
Place additional joists under load-bearing walls running parallel to the joists.

HEADER, GIRDER & FLOOR JOIST BEARING ON SUPPORTS

1. Place at least 1 1/2 inches of a floor joist, header,girder, or beam on the
supporting wood or metal wall. Supporting wood includes a sill plate
bearing on a masonry or concrete wall.
2. Place at least three inches of a floor joist, header, girder, or beam on the
supporting masonry or concrete wall. Comply with this requirement
when the member bears directly on the masonry or concrete wall, not on
a sill plate that bears on the wall. This requirement usually applies to
beams and girders.
3. You may support floor joists on at least a 1 × 4 ledger if the ledger is
attached to each stud and if the joist is attached to a stud.
Place load-bearing walls running perpendicular to the joists not more than one joist depth away from
the supporting wall or beam.
Place at least 1 1/2" of wood on the supporting wood.
Place at least 3" of wood on supporting concrete or masonry.
Lap joists that meet over supports with at least 3" overlap. Reinforce the lap joint with at least three
10d nails.

Attaching the ends of the floor joists to a band board is a common way to keep joists from twisting.
Attach floor joists to beams using metal joist hanger hardware.

FLOOR JOIST LAP AT SUPPORTS

1. Lap floor joists from opposite sides that meet over a bearing support at
least three inches at the support and nail the joists at the lap using at
least three 10d nails. You may substitute a wood or metal splice of equal
or greater strength for the nailed lap.
FLOOR JOIST ATTACHMENT TO BEAMS
1. Use an approved joist hanger or at least a 2 × 2 wood ledger to support
floor joists that connect to a beam or girder.
FLOOR JOIST BLOCKING
1. Install full-depth solid blocking that’s at least two inches thick at both
ends of floor joists. Or attach the joists to a header, band, or rim joist, or
to an adjoining stud. This helps reduce joist twisting.
2. Install blocking at all intermediate load-bearing supports in seismic
design areas.

Attach floor joists to beams using a 2 × 2 or larger ledger for support.

FLOOR JOIST BRIDGING
1. Install bridging at intervals not more than every eight feet of floor joist
length on floor joists deeper than 2 × 12.
2. You may use solid, full-depth blocking, wood or metal diagonal
bridging, or other means to provide required floor joist bridging. Some
code officials require bridging on all floor joists regardless of what the
code stipulates.

Bridging

Metal bridging (left) can be secured with joist hanger nails. For wood X-bridging, drive 10d
common nails to secure the board ends to the floor joists.
Options for floor bridging include: Full depth lumber bridging (A); metal X bridging (B); wood X
bridging (C).

Floor Joist Openings

Framed openings in floor joists are used mostly for stairways between
floors and for chimneys. The header joists distribute the load of the tail
joists to the trimmer joists.

FLOOR JOIST OPENINGS NOT MORE THAN FOUR FEET WIDE

1. Install double trimmer joists on both sides of header joists. You may use
a single trimmer joist on both sides of the header joists if the header is
not more than three feet from the trimmer bearing point.
2. You may use a single header joist if the header joist span is not more
than four feet wide.
 3. Install approved joist hangers or a 2 × 2 ledger strip to connect tail joists
to header joists and header joists to trimmer joists.
FLOOR JOIST OPENINGS MORE THAN FOUR FEET WIDE
1. Install double trimmer joists and double header joists if the header joist
span is more than four feet wide.
2. Install approved joist hangers to connect header joists to trimmer joists
if the header joist span is more than six feet wide.
3. Install approved joist hangers or a 2 × 2 ledger strip to connect tail joists
to header joists if the tail joists are more than 12 feet long.

Use double trimmer joists at most openings. Use double header joists if the opening is more than 4 ft.
wide.

Floor Sheathing
1. Install wood floor sheathing panels: (a) so that they continuously span at
least two framing members, and (b) with the long dimension
perpendicular (90 degree angle) to supports, and (c) that are at least 24
inches wide. Panels less than 24 inches wide can deflect or fail under
load.
2. Support wood floor sheathing panel edges with solid blocking, tongue-
and-groove edges, or other approved means. An additional
underlayment layer that is at least 1/4 inch or 3/4 inch wood floor
covering can substitute for edge support in some cases.
 3. You may use wood floor sheathing panels (such as 23/32 inch and 3/4
inch nominal thickness plywood or OSB and 3/4 inch sanded plywood)
as a combination subfloor and underlayment. Install combination
subflooring as described in #1 above. Be aware that while combination
subflooring panels comply with the IRC, they may not comply with
manufacturer’s installation for some floor coverings such as tile.

Support edges of floor sheathing with tongue-and-groove edges.

Support edges of floor sheathing with solid blocking.
How to Read the Label on Plywood and OSB
A plywood or OSB panel label contains much information. Here is the
most important information you need to know when buying these
products.

• Exposure 1: (A) Exposure 1 means the panel can withstand some

exposure to weather during construction but is not designed for long-
term weather exposure; Exterior means the panel is designed for
long-term weather exposure
• Number before slash: (B) maximum on center support span when
used as roof sheathing, edge support may be required to achieve the
rated span
• Number after slash: (C) maximum on center support span when used
as floor sheathing; on panels with one number, the number is the
floor sheathing span
• Performance category at bottom of label: (D) use this when
referencing the panel’s thickness in the IRC.
 Draftstopping
Draftstopping helps limit the spread of fires in floor framing and in
floor/ceiling assemblies. It is most often required when using open web
floor trusses and when a ceiling is suspended under a floor. Do not confuse
draftstopping with fireblocking. Fireblocking occurs in wall assemblies.
Some floor trusses require draftstopping to prevent horizontal air movement that can conduct fire.
Solid wood floor joist systems typically do not because they are naturally closed off. Install a draftstop

in web floor trusses when there is usable space above and below and when the concealed area is more

than 1,000 square feet. Drywall and other structural panels may be used for draft stops.

INSTALLING DRAFTSTOPPING
1. Install draftstopping when usable space exists both above and below the
floor/ceiling assembly and when the open area within the concealed
floor/ceiling assembly exceeds 1,000 square feet.
2. Use at least 1/2-inch drywall, 3/8-inch wood structural panels (plywood
or OSB), or other approved material.
3. Divide the space to be draftstopped into areas that are approximately
equal.
4. Install the draftstopping material parallel with the framing.
5. Repair draftstopping that is damaged or penetrated by pipes, ducts, or
other materials.
 Notches & Holes in Trusses
Notch, bore, splice, or alter wood I-Beam floor joists or engineered
wood members only according to manufacturer’s instructions and with
written approval.
Altering the top and bottom flange of I-beam joist is usually not
allowed. Hole boring is usually allowed in the middle third of the span
and is restricted near the I-joist ends.
Cutting the ends of engineered wood beams and I-joists to length is
usually permitted.

Beam types: Laminated beam (A), web-type truss, metal plate connected (B), I-beam joist (C).
 Notches & Holes in Joists & Rafters
BORING & NOTCHING DEFINITIONS
A bore is a hole drilled in a stud or joist. Use the actual dimensions to
determine the depth of framing lumber and when calculating the maximum
hole diameter.
A notch is a piece cut from the smaller dimension of framing lumber
such as a stud or joist. Use the actual dimensions to determine the depth of
framing lumber and when calculating the maximum notch depth. Actual
dimensions are the dimensions of framing lumber after finishing at the mill.
Example: the nominal dimensions of a 2 × 6 are two inches by six inches
and the actual dimensions, after finishing, are about 1 1/2 inches by 5 1/2
inches.

Drill holes not more than 1/3 of the member depth and cut member notches not deeper than 1/6 of
the member depth.
Notch wood joists and rafters not longer than 1/3 of the depth and only in the outer 1/3 of the
member.
Drill holes in wood joists and rafters not larger than 1/3 the depth and at least 2" from the edge of the
member.

WOOD JOIST NOTCHING & BORING

1. You may notch solid lumber rafters, floor and ceiling joists, and beams
not deeper than one-sixth the depth of the member. You may notch the
ends of the member not deeper than one fourth the depth of the member.
Example: notch a 2 × 10 joist not deeper than 1 1/2 inches, except at the
ends where you may notch not deeper than 2 5/16 inches.
2. You may notch solid lumber rafters, floor and ceiling joists, and beams
not longer than one-third the depth of the member. Example: notch the
top or bottom of a 2 × 10 joist not longer than 3 1/16 inches.
3. You may notch solid lumber rafters, floor and ceiling joists, and beams
only within the outer one-third of the span. Example: notch a 10-foot
long joist only within 40 inches from each end.
4. You may notch the tension side (bottom) of solid lumber rafters, floor
and ceiling joists, and beams more than four inches thick only at the
 ends.
5. You may drill holes in solid lumber rafters, floor and ceiling joists, and
beams with a diameter not more than one-third of the depth of the
member. Example: drill a hole with a diameter not more than 3 1/8
inches in a 2 × 10 joist.
6. Locate holes at least two inches from the edge of the member and at
least two inches from any other hole or notch.
7. Use actual joist depths, not nominal joist depths. Example: use 9 1/4
inches for a 2 × 10 joist, not the nominal depth of 10 inches.
 Wall Systems

W hether they are interior or exterior, load-bearing or nonload-bearing,

made from wood studs or metal, walls must meet very specific
construction standards to ensure that they do not impede the
structural integrity of a house and do their part to prevent fires from
spreading within wall cavities. Nevertheless, be aware that designing and
building load-bearing walls is a closely regulated process. In most cases,
you would be well advised to consult a structural engineer to make sure
that the lumber sizes and spacing conform to code standards and that
any beams are appropriately sized, properly supported, and made from
qualifying materials.
Even nonload-bearing walls must conform to construction codes.
Wood Nailing Definitions
Using the proper size and type of nail and installing the nail where
required is critical to the structural integrity of a building. Analysis of
building failures frequently shows that failures result from improper
nailing. The following are definitions of nailing methods and
installation requirements contained in the IRC.

Edge spacing: Edge spacing means installing a nail every indicated

number of inches around the perimeter of a wood structural panel. If
blocking is required by the IRC, then edge spacing includes nailing the
panel to the blocking.

Endnailing: An endnail is driven straight into the end of the member.

An example of endnailing is attaching studs to sill plates through the
sill plate before the sill plate is attached to the foundation or subfloor.

Facenailing: A facenail is driven straight into the member, often into

the long dimension of the member. Examples of facenailing include
ceiling and floor joist laps over supports and attaching wood panels to
studs and joists.

Intermediate spacing: Intermediate spacing means installing a nail

every indicated number of inches at studs or joists in the interior area of
a wood structural panel.

O. C. means “on center.” Install nails every indicated number of

inches.

Toenailing: A toenail is driven at an angle through the edge of the

member. Toenailing usually occurs when one member is already
attached in place, such as when a stud is toenailed to a sill plate that is
already attached.
Endnailing (A), toenailing (B), facenailing (C).
 Wood Nailing Requirements
WOOD NAILING GENERAL INSTALLATION REQUIREMENTS
1. Use nails that are at least as thick and long as indicated in the following
tables. Common nails and box nails are often thicker and longer than
hand-driven sinker nails and pneumatic-driven nails commonly used in
residential construction. You cannot directly substitute sinker and gun
nails for common, box, and deformed shank nails. Substitution of sinker
and gun nails should be based on engineering analysis.
Install nails around the edge of wood panels and at intermediate supports at the required on-center
spacing.

WOOD NAILING TO FRAMING MATERIALS

1. Use Tables 10, 11, and 12 to determine the type of nail and nail spacing
for attaching wood framing materials to other wood framing materials
in other than high wind and seismic design areas. Refer to the general
codes for fastener type, quantity, and spacing in high wind and seismic
design areas.
Table 10: Nailing OSB and Plywood Sheathing
to Framing
PANEL THICKNESS 3/8 to 1/2"
NAIL TYPE 6d common (2 × 0.113") subfloor & wall 8d common (2
1/2 × 0.131") roof

EDGE SPACING 6" o.c.

INTERMEDIATE SPACING 12" o.c.

PANEL THICKNESS 1 9/32 to 1"

NAIL TYPE 8d common (2 1/2 × 0.131")
EDGE SPACING 6" o.c.
INTERMEDIATE SPACING 12" o.c.

PANEL THICKNESS 1 1/8 to 1 1/4"

NAIL TYPE 10d common (3 × 0.148") or 8d deformed (2 1/2 ×
0.120")
EDGE SPACING 6" o.c.
INTERMEDIATE SPACING 12" o.c.
Table 11: Nailing One-piece Subfloor to
Framing
PANEL THICKNESS 3/4" & less
NAIL TYPE 6d deformed (2 × 0.120") or 8d common (2 1/2 × 0.131")
EDGE SPACING 6" o.c.
INTERMEDIATE SPACING 12" o.c.

PANEL THICKNESS 7/8 to 1"

NAIL TYPE 8d common (2 1/2 × 0.131") or 8d deformed (2 1/2 ×
0.120")
EDGE SPACING 6" o.c.
INTERMEDIATE SPACING 12" o.c.

PANEL THICKNESS 1 1/8 to 1 1/4"

NAIL TYPE 10d common (3 × 0.148") or 8d deformed (2 1/2 ×
0.120")
EDGE SPACING 6" o.c.
INTERMEDIATE SPACING 12" o.c.
Table 12: Nailing Structural Lumber
Floor Nailing
LUMBER DESCRIPTION, NAILING Joist to sill, girder, plate, toe nail
METHOD
NUMBER/TYPE OF FASTENERS 3-8d common (2 1/2" × 0.131") OR 3-3" ×
0.131" (gun nail)
FASTENER SPACING --

LUMBER DESCRIPTION, NAILING Rim joist, band joist, or blocking to sill or to

METHOD top plate, toe nail
NUMBER/TYPE OF FASTENERS 8d common (2 1/2" × 0.131") OR 3-3" × 0.131"
(gun nail)
FASTENER SPACING 6" o.c.

LUMBER DESCRIPTION, NAILING Ledger supporting joists

METHOD
NUMBER/TYPE OF FASTENERS 3-16d common (3 1/2" × 0.162") OR 4-3" ×
0.131" (gun nail)
FASTENER SPACING under each joist

LUMBER DESCRIPTION, NAILING Built-up beams, using 2"-thick lumber

METHOD
NUMBER/TYPE OF FASTENERS 10d box (3" × 0.128") OR 3" × 0.131" (gun
nail) AND 3-10d box (3" × 0.128") OR 3-3" ×
0.131" (gun nail)
FASTENER SPACING 24" o.c. face nail stagger at top & bottom on
opposite sides face nail at ends and at splices

LUMBER DESCRIPTION, NAILING Band or rim joist to joist, end nail

METHOD
NUMBER/TYPE OF FASTENERS 3-16d common (3 1/2" × 0.162") OR 4-3" ×
0.131" (gun nail)
FASTENER SPACING --

Wall Nailing
LUMBER DESCRIPTION, NAILING Sill or sole plate to joist, rim joist, or blocking
METHOD (not a braced wall)
NUMBER/TYPE OF FASTENERS 16d common (3 1/2" × 0.162") OR 3" × 0.131"
 (gun nail)
FASTENER SPACING 16" o.c. face nail 12" o.c. face nail

LUMBER DESCRIPTION, NAILING Sill or sole plate to joist, rim joist, or blocking
METHOD (at a braced wall)
NUMBER/TYPE OF FASTENERS 2-16d common (3 1/2" × 0.162") OR 4-3" ×
0.131" (gun nail)
FASTENER SPACING 2 each 16" o.c. face nail 4 each 12" o.c. face
nail

LUMBER DESCRIPTION, NAILING Stud to top or bottom plate, toe nail

METHOD
NUMBER/TYPE OF FASTENERS 4-8d common (2 1/2" × 0.131") OR 4-3" ×
0.131" (gun nail)
FASTENER SPACING --

LUMBER DESCRIPTION, NAILING Stud to top or bottom plate, end nail

METHOD
NUMBER/TYPE OF FASTENERS 2-16d common (3 1/2" × 0.162") OR 3-3" ×
0.131" (gun nail)
FASTENER SPACING --

LUMBER DESCRIPTION, NAILING Stud to stud (not braced wall panel), face nail
METHOD
NUMBER/TYPE OF FASTENERS 16d common (3 1/2" × 0.162") OR 3" × 0.131"
(gun nail)
FASTENER SPACING 24" o.c. 16" o.c.

LUMBER DESCRIPTION, NAILING Stud to stud (at a braced wall panel), face nail
METHOD
NUMBER/TYPE OF FASTENERS 16d common (3 1/2" × 0.162") OR 3" × 0.131"
(gun nail)
FASTENER SPACING 12" o.c. 16" o.c.

LUMBER DESCRIPTION, NAILING Double top plate, face nail

METHOD
NUMBER/TYPE OF FASTENERS 16d common (3 1/2" × 0.162") OR 3" × 0.131"
(gun nail)
FASTENER SPACING 16" o.c. 12" o.c.

LUMBER DESCRIPTION, NAILING Top plates, laps at corners and intersections

METHOD
NUMBER/TYPE OF FASTENERS 2-16d common (3 1/2" × 0.162") OR 3-3" ×
0.131" (gun nail)
FASTENER SPACING --

LUMBER DESCRIPTION, NAILING Stud to stud and studs connecting at

METHOD intersecting walls (at a braced wall panel)
NUMBER/TYPE OF FASTENERS 16d common (3 1/2" × 0.162") OR 3" × 0.131"
(gun nail)
FASTENER SPACING 16" o.c. 12" o.c.

LUMBER DESCRIPTION, NAILING Headers: 2-piece with 1/2" spacer

METHOD
NUMBER/TYPE OF FASTENERS 16d common (3 1/2" × 0.162") 16" o.c. face
nail
FASTENER SPACING --

LUMBER DESCRIPTION, NAILING Header to stud, toe nail

METHOD
NUMBER/TYPE OF FASTENERS 5-8d box (2 1/2" × 0.113") OR 4-8d common 2
1/2" × 0.131"

FASTENER SPACING --

LUMBER DESCRIPTION, NAILING 1" let-in brace to each stud and plate, face nail
METHOD
NUMBER/TYPE OF FASTENERS 3-8d box (2 1/2" × 0.113") OR 2-8d common 2
1/2" × 0.131"

FASTENER SPACING --

Roof Nailing
LUMBER DESCRIPTION, NAILING Blocking between joists or rafters to top plate,
METHOD toe nail
NUMBER/TYPE OF FASTENERS 3-8d common (2 1/2" × 0.131") OR 3-3" ×
0.131" (gun nail)
FASTENER SPACING --

LUMBER DESCRIPTION, NAILING Ceiling joist to plate, toe nail

METHOD
NUMBER/TYPE OF FASTENERS 3-8d common (2 1/2" × 0.131") OR 3-3" ×
0.131" (gun nail)
FASTENER SPACING --
 LUMBER DESCRIPTION, NAILING Collar tie to rafter and joist, face nail or 1 1/4"
METHOD by 20-gauge strap
NUMBER/TYPE OF FASTENERS 3-10d common (3" × 0.148") OR 4-3" × 0.131"
(gun nail)
FASTENER SPACING --

LUMBER DESCRIPTION, NAILING Rafter or truss to plate, toe nail

METHOD
NUMBER/TYPE OF FASTENERS 3-16d box (3 1/2" × 0.135") OR 4-3" × 0.131"
(gun nail)
FASTENER SPACING 2 toe nails on one side and other nails on other
side of rafter or truss

LUMBER DESCRIPTION, NAILING Rafters to ridge, valley, or hip rafters, toe nail
METHOD
NUMBER/TYPE OF FASTENERS 4-16d (3 1/2" × 0.135") OR 4-3" × 0.131" (gun
nail)
FASTENER SPACING --

LUMBER DESCRIPTION, NAILING Rafters to ridge, valley, or hip rafters, end nail
METHOD
NUMBER/TYPE OF FASTENERS 3-16d (3 1/2" × 0.135") OR 3-3" × 0.131" (gun
nail)
FASTENER SPACING --

Wall Stud Size & Spacing

WOOD GRADES USED IN WALL CONSTRUCTION
1. Use Number 3, standard, or stud grade wood for most load-bearing
walls not more than 10 feet tall. Do not use this wood for load-bearing
walls more than 10 feet tall. Use Number 2 grade or better lumber for
walls more than 10 feet tall.
2. You may use utility grade wood for nonload-bearing walls.
3. Refer to general codes for more information about other wall height and
stud spacing combinations.
4. Refer to general codes for wall height and stud spacing requirements in
high wind, heavy snow load, and seismic design areas.
Wall studs taller than 10 ft. require No. 2 or better grade construction lumber. Shorter walls may be
built with cheaper No. 3 grade in most cases.

STUD SIZE & SPACING FOR LOAD-BEARING WALLS NOT MORE THAN 10 FEET TALL
1. Use Table 13 to determine stud size and spacing when the unsupported
vertical height of an exterior load-bearing wall is not more than 10 feet.
Measure vertical height between points of horizontal (lateral) support
between studs. Vertical wall height is usually measured between the
bottom of the sole or sill plate and the bottom of the floor or ceiling.
Consult a qualified engineer before measuring unsupported vertical wall
height between points other than at floor levels.
Table 13: Stud Size & Spacing for Load-bearing
Walls
STUD SIZE (INCHES) 2×4
MAXIMUM STUD SPACING SUPPORTING ONLY ONE
FLOOR, OR SUPPORTING A CEILING AND ROOF WITH 24"
OR WITHOUT A HABITABLE ATTIC
MAXIMUM STUD SPACING SUPPORTING ONE FLOOR
AND A CEILING AND ROOF WITH OR WITHOUT A 16"
HABITABLE ATTIC
MAXIMUM STUD SPACING SUPPORTING TWO
FLOORS AND A CEILING AND ROOF WITH OR Not allowed
WITHOUT A HABITABLE ATTIC

STUD SIZE (INCHES) 2×6

MAXIMUM STUD SPACING SUPPORTING ONLY ONE
FLOOR, OR SUPPORTING A CEILING AND ROOF WITH 24"
OR WITHOUT A HABITABLE ATTIC
MAXIMUM STUD SPACING SUPPORTING ONE FLOOR
AND A CEILING AND ROOF WITH OR WITHOUT A 24"
HABITABLE ATTIC
MAXIMUM STUD SPACING SUPPORTING TWO
FLOORS AND A CEILING AND ROOF WITH OR 16"
WITHOUT A HABITABLE ATTIC
Stud size and spacing depends on what the studs are supporting.

STUD SIZE & SPACING FOR NONLOAD-BEARING WALLS

1. Use Table 14 to determine stud size and spacing for nonload-bearing
walls. Measure vertical height between points of horizontal (lateral)
support between studs. Vertical wall height is usually measured between
the bottom of the sole or sill plate and the bottom of the floor or ceiling.
Consult a qualified engineer before measuring unsupported vertical wall
height between points other than at floor levels.
 Table 14: Stud Size & Spacing for Nonload-
bearing Walls
STUD SIZE 2×4
MAXIMUM STUD HEIGHT 14 ft.
MAXIMUM STUD SPACING 24"

STUD SIZE 2×6

MAXIMUM STUD HEIGHT 20 ft.
MAXIMUM STUD SPACING 24"

TOP & BOTTOM PLATE CONSTRUCTION

1. Use at least two 2-inch (nominal) depth top plates that are at least as
wide as the studs at the top of load-bearing walls. Example: use two 2 ×
4 top plates on top of a 2 × 4 wall and use 2 × 6 top plates on top of 2 ×
6 walls.
2. Offset joints where two pieces of top plate meet by at least 24 inches.
You do not need to place a stud under a joint in a top plate unless the
stud would be placed there for other reasons.
3. Lap one top plate from one wall over the top plate of an intersecting
wall at the wall corners and at the intersection with load-bearing walls.
4. You may use a single top plate at the top of nonload-bearing walls.
5. Install one galvanized metal strap at least 0.054-inch thick and 1 1/2
inches wide on a top plate if it is cut more than 50 percent of its actual
depth. These metal straps are sometimes called FHA straps. It is not
necessary to install a strap on both top plates for purposes of this
section. You may need to install shield plate to protect plumbing pipes
and electrical wires.
6. Extend the strap at least six inches beyond each side of the cut opening.
Secure the strap with at least eight 16d nails on each side of the strap.
7. Apply this strap requirement to top plates in exterior and interior load-
bearing walls.
 8. You do not need to install the strap if wood structural panel sheathing
covers the entire side of the wall with the notched or cut top plates.
9. Use at least one 2-inch (nominal) depth bottom plate that is at least as
wide as the studs. Note that some jurisdictions allow treated plywood to
serve as the bottom plate for curved walls. Verify this local exception
with the building official.

Offset joints where 2 top plates meet by at least 24".

Install a strap across 1 top plate when it is notched more than half its width. Install another strap or a
shield plate when required to protect pipes and electrical wires.

Notches & Holes in Wall Studs

BORING & NOTCHING DEFINITIONS
A bore is a hole drilled in a stud or joist. Use the actual dimensions to
determine the depth of framing lumber and when calculating the maximum
hole diameter.
A notch is a piece cut from the smaller dimension of framing lumber
such as a stud or joist. Use the actual dimensions to determine the depth of
framing lumber and when calculating the maximum notch depth. Actual
dimensions are the dimensions of framing lumber after finishing at the mill.
Example: the nominal dimensions of a 2 × 6 are 2 inches by 6 inches and
the actual dimensions, after finishing, are about 1 1/2 inches by 5 1/2 inches.
Notch a load-bearing stud not more than 25 percent of its actual depth.

WOOD STUD NOTCHING

1. Notch a load-bearing stud not more than 25 percent of its actual depth.
Example: notch a 2 × 6 load-bearing stud not more than 1 3/8 inches.
2. Notch a nonload-bearing stud not more than 40 percent of its actual
depth. Example: notch a 2 × 6 nonload-bearing stud not more than 2 1/4
inches.

Drill a hole in a load-bearing stud not more than 40 percent of its actual depth.
WOOD STUD BORING
1. Bore a hole in a single load-bearing stud not more than 40 percent of its
actual depth. Example: bore a 2 × 6 load-bearing stud not more than 2
1/4 inches in diameter.

2. You may bore holes in load-bearing studs not more than 60 percent of
their actual depth if you install a double stud and do not bore more than
two successive studs.
3. Bore a hole in a nonload-bearing stud not more than 60 percent of its
actual depth. Example: bore a 2 × 6 nonload-bearing stud not more than
3 1/4 inches in diameter.
4. Leave at least 5/8 inch of undisturbed wood between the hole and the
stud edge.
5. Do not place a hole and a notch in the same horizontal section of the
stud.

Double two load-bearing studs if the holes are not more than 60 percent of their actual depth.
VIOLATION! Do not locate a notch and a hole in the same part of the stud.

Cripple Wall Framing

CRIPPLE WALL REQUIREMENTS
1. Install cripple walls using studs that are at least the same width as the
wall studs above.
2. Frame cripple walls more than four feet tall as though they are full
height walls. This means using the stud sizes and framing requirements
previously described. Example: if full height wall studs on the same
floor level as the cripple wall are 2 × 6, use 2 × 6 studs for the cripple
wall.
3. Brace cripple walls using the same bracing method and length as the
wall above, except increase the cripple wall brace length by 1.15.
Example: if the cripple wall is a 2 feet tall basement wall and the wall
brace length for the first story wall above is 3 feet, brace at least 3.45
feet (3 × 1.15) of the cripple wall.
4. Install sheathing that covers at least one full side of a cripple wall less
than 14 inches tall. Fasten the sheathing to both the top and bottom
plates.
5. Support cripple walls on a continuous foundation.
6. You may substitute solid blocking for a framed and sheathed cripple
wall less than 14 inches tall.
7. Anchor cripple walls to the foundation like other framed walls.
8. Refer to the IRC for additional bracing requirements in seismic design
areas.

Cripple Wall Definition

A cripple wall is a framed wall that is less than one story tall. Cripple
walls often occur with basement foundations that are stepped down to
follow finished grade, and they may occur in split-level homes.

Cripple walls may be load-bearing or nonload-bearing. This bearing version is used to bridge a
gap between the foundation wall and the first floor framing members. Anchor cripple walls to the

foundation and brace as required.

Cripple walls are often combined with egress window framing. The cap plate on the block wall supports
the floor trusses for this addition. The 2 × 6 construction allows the project to meet minimum wall

insulation codes.

Wall Bracing
General codes present many methods and rules for framed wall bracing.
This section discusses two common wall bracing methods and some general
rules about how to install them. Wall bracing is very complicated. The
intent of this section is to introduce you to the concepts. Refer to general
codes and consult with qualified professionals for more information about
wall bracing, particularly when dealing with wall bracing in high wind,
seismic design, and heavy snow load areas.
WALL BRACE AND BRACED WALL DEFINITIONS
Braced wall (braced wall line). A braced wall is a mostly straight interior
or exterior wall that contains the required length of approved wall braces
(braced wall panels). Most exterior walls and some interior walls are braced
walls. The illustration shows examples of where wall braces are installed in
braced walls. Offsets from a straight wall are allowed if the offset is not
more than 4 feet. Angled walls are allowed if the angled wall is not more
than 8 feet long.
Structural panel wall bracing. To prevent framed walls from rocking or leaning, bracing is required. In
most cases, bracing can be accomplished by fastening full-height structural panels to the wall framing

at defined intervals, near corners and around wall openings.

Wall brace (braced wall panel). A wall brace is a full height wall with
no vertical or horizontal offsets that has approved wall bracing material
attached. A wood structural panel (such as OSB) and panel-type siding are
common examples of approved wall bracing materials. Each braced wall
must have an approved total length of wall braces. The total length of wall
braces depends on: (a) the criteria described in the next section, and on (b)
the type of bracing material such as wood structural panels and panel siding
bracing, and on (c) the story being braced, and on (d) the design wind
speed, and on (e) the seismic design category.
WALL BRACING METHODS
1. Use one of the approved wall bracing methods. Common wall bracing
methods include wood structural panel sheathing that is at least 3/8 inch
thick, hardboard panel siding that is at least 7/16 inch thick, let-in
bracing, and portal frame braces that provide shorter length bracing near
large openings and garage doors. Each of these methods is an
intermittent bracing method. This means that individual wall braces are
installed near the ends of each braced wall.
2. You may use a continuous sheathing wall bracing method. This means
that all braced walls have sheathing such as wood structural panels
applied continuously to the walls including above and below openings
and on gable end walls. Refer to the IRC for requirements regarding
panel lengths near openings and for panel installation and hold-down
straps at the ends of continuously sheathed braced walls.
3. Refer to the IRC for information about other wall bracing materials and
methods. Refer to manufacturer’s instructions for information about
manufactured wall braces.
4. You may use different wall bracing methods within the same braced
wall and you may use different bracing methods on different stories.
Example: you may use let-in bracing at one end of a braced wall and
structural panel bracing on the other end. Use the highest required
bracing length in the table when using different bracing methods in the
same braced wall. Refer to the IRC for some restrictions when mixing
wall bracing methods.
WALL BRACING GENERAL INSTALLATION REQUIREMENTS
1. Install a wall brace near the end of each braced wall.
2. Begin the wall brace not more than 10 feet from the end of a braced
wall.
3. Begin a wall brace not less than 20 feet from the closest edge of the next
wall brace in the braced wall.
4. Do not exceed 60 feet between braced walls. Smaller distances between
braced walls are required in the D series seismic design areas. Refer to
the IRC.
WALL BRACE LENGTH
1. The following discussion and table assumes the following about the
house: (a) it is located in an urban area or suburban subdivision that is
not in an earthquake risk area, and (b) the roof is not more than 30 feet
above the first story floor, and (c) the height of the wall being braced is
not more than 10 feet, and (d) wood structural panels or panel-type
siding is used for the wall brace. This a simplified explanation. Refer to
the IRC for more detailed information.
2. Install at least two 48-inch-long wall braces in braced walls longer than
16 feet. Install at least one 48-inch-long wall brace or two smaller wall
braces in braced walls 16 feet long or less. Install these braces even if
Table 15A specifies a smaller length. Install the length of wall braces
specified in Table 15A if the wall brace length in Table 15A is longer
than 48 inches.
FASTENING WALL BRACES
1. Fasten wall bracing material to framing according to the fastening
schedules in the Wood Nailing Requirements section or according to the
brace manufacturer’s instructions.
2. Fasten vertical joints at panel sheathing edges to studs. Fasten
horizontal joints to at least (≥) 1 1/2 inch-thick blocking.
3. Use fasteners and uplift connectors as required by good engineering
practices to connect rafters and trusses to wall braces and connect the
wall braces to framing in stories below.
4. Install at least (≥) 1/2 inch drywall on the interior side of wall braces.
You will need to increase the wall brace length by 1.40 if drywall is
omitted. Space drywall fasteners not more than (≤) 8 inches on center at
panel edges when using let-in wall braces.
Table 15A: Minimum Total Length of Wall
Braces in a Braced Wall for Wood Structural
Panels (WSP) and Panel-type Siding (HPS)
STORIES ABOVE BRACED WALL 0
DISTANCE BETWEEN BRACED WALLS (FEET) 10
DESIGN WIND SPEED (MPH) ≤110
WSP & HPS (FEET) 2.0

STORIES ABOVE BRACED WALL 0

DISTANCE BETWEEN BRACED WALLS (FEET) 20
DESIGN WIND SPEED (MPH) ≤110
WSP & HPS (FEET) 3.5

STORIES ABOVE BRACED WALL 0

DISTANCE BETWEEN BRACED WALLS (FEET) 30
DESIGN WIND SPEED (MPH) ≤110
WSP & HPS (FEET) 5.0

STORIES ABOVE BRACED WALL 0

DISTANCE BETWEEN BRACED WALLS (FEET) 40
DESIGN WIND SPEED (MPH) ≤110
WSP & HPS (FEET) 6.5

STORIES ABOVE BRACED WALL 1

DISTANCE BETWEEN BRACED WALLS (FEET) 10
DESIGN WIND SPEED (MPH) ≤110
WSP & HPS (FEET) 3.5

STORIES ABOVE BRACED WALL 1

DISTANCE BETWEEN BRACED WALLS (FEET) 20
DESIGN WIND SPEED (MPH) ≤110
WSP & HPS (FEET) 6.5

STORIES ABOVE BRACED WALL 1

DISTANCE BETWEEN BRACED WALLS (FEET) 30
DESIGN WIND SPEED (MPH) ≤110
WSP & HPS (FEET) 9.5

STORIES ABOVE BRACED WALL 1

DISTANCE BETWEEN BRACED WALLS (FEET) 40
DESIGN WIND SPEED (MPH) ≤110
WSP & HPS (FEET) 12.5

STORIES ABOVE BRACED WALL 2

DISTANCE BETWEEN BRACED WALLS (FEET) 10
DESIGN WIND SPEED (MPH) ≤110
WSP & HPS (FEET) 5.5

STORIES ABOVE BRACED WALL 2

DISTANCE BETWEEN BRACED WALLS (FEET) 20
DESIGN WIND SPEED (MPH) ≤110
WSP & HPS (FEET) 10.0

STORIES ABOVE BRACED WALL 2

DISTANCE BETWEEN BRACED WALLS (FEET) 30
DESIGN WIND SPEED (MPH) ≤110
WSP & HPS (FEET) 14.0

STORIES ABOVE BRACED WALL 2

DISTANCE BETWEEN BRACED WALLS (FEET) 40
DESIGN WIND SPEED (MPH) ≤110
WSP & HPS (FEET) 18.5
Table 15B: Simple Wall Bracing Minimum
Number of Bracing Units (wind speed not more
than 115 mph, urban and suburban area)
STORIES ABOVE 0
EAVE TO RIDGE HEIGHT (FEET) 10
LONG SIDE (FEET) 10 1
20 2
30 2
40 2
50 3
60 3
SHORT SIDE (FEET) 10 1
20 2
30 2
40 2
50 3
60 3

STORIES ABOVE 1
EAVE TO RIDGE HEIGHT (FEET) 10
LONG SIDE (FEET) 10 2
20 3
30 3
40 4
50 5
60 6
SHORT SIDE (FEET) 10 2
20 3
30 3
40 4
50 5
60 6
STORIES ABOVE 0
EAVE TO RIDGE HEIGHT (FEET) 15
LONG SIDE (FEET) 10 1
20 2
30 3
40 3
50 4
60 4
SHORT SIDE (FEET) 10 1
20 2
30 3
40 3
50 4
60 4

STORIES ABOVE 1
EAVE TO RIDGE HEIGHT (FEET) 15
LONG SIDE (FEET) 10 2
20 3
30 4
40 5
50 6
60 7
SHORT SIDE (FEET) 10 2
20 3
30 4
40 5
50 6
60 7
SIMPLE WALL BRACING
1. You may use a less complex wall bracing method for certain homes that
are basically rectangles with insets and pop-outs. The home must
comply with all of the following to qualify for this less complex
method: (a) wind speed area not more than 130 mph, and (b) wind
exposure category is B or C, and (c) wall height not more than 10 feet,
and (d) seismic design category A, B, or C for one and two family
homes, and (e) not more than 3 stories above a concrete or masonry
foundation or basement wall, and (f) cantilevered floors extend not
more than 24 inches beyond the bearing point, and (g) roof eave to ridge
height not more than 15 feet, and (h) at least (≥) 1/2 inch drywall
installed on the interior side of all exterior walls, and (i) no cripple walls
allowed in 3-story homes.
2. Use wood structural panels that are at least 3/8 inch thick as the wall
bracing material. Fasten 3/8-inch-thick wood structural panels using 6d
common nails. Fasten 7/16-inch-thick wood structural panels using 8d
common nails. Space the nails 6 inches on-center at the edges and 12
inches on-center at intermediate supports.
3. Build bracing units as full height walls with no openings and no vertical
or horizontal offsets. A bracing unit must be one fully sheathed vertical
wall segment.
4. Use bracing units that are at least 3 feet long when the walls are
continuously sheathed with the wall bracing material. Continuously
sheathed means all wall areas have structural sheathing applied
including above and below openings and at gable wall ends. Use
bracing units that are at least 4 feet long when the walls are not
continuously sheathed.
5. Begin a bracing unit not more than 12 feet from a wall corner. Make the
distance between adjacent bracing units in the same wall not more than
20 feet. Place at least 1 bracing unit in any wall more than 8 feet long.
6. Determine the length of exterior walls as shown in the illustration on
page 75. Do not include open structures such as porches, decks, and
carports. Determine the number of bracing units in each exterior wall
according to Table 15C. Interior walls do not count as braced walls.
7. You may count bracing units that are wider than the minimum width as
multiple bracing units. Divide the width of the bracing unit by the
 minimum bracing unit width to determine the number of bracing units.
Example: a bracing unit is 7 feet wide. The wall is not continuously
sheathed, so the minimum bracing unit width is 4 feet. The 7 feet wide
bracing unit counts as 1 3/4 bracing units (7/4 = 1.75).
8. Do not count sheathed wall segments that are narrower than the 3 or 4
foot minimum lengths as bracing units. Refer to the IRC for exceptions
involving certain continuous sheathing methods at garage doors and
large openings.
 Wood Structural Panel Wall Bracing
1. Install wood structural panel wall bracing using 4 × 8 or 4 × 9 panels at
least 3/8-inch thick (span rating 24/0).
2. Install panels that are at least 48 inches wide and cover at least three
stud bays for studs spaced 16 inches on center.
3. Secure 3/8-inch-thick wood structural panel bracing to studs using at
least 6d common nails spaced not more than 6 inches on center at panel
edges and 12 inches on center at intermediate supports. Secure 7/16-inch
thick panels (span rating 24/16) using 8d common nails spaced as
previously described.
4. Install solid blocking where panel joints occur between studs to
maintain fastener spacing. Use at least 1 1/2-inch-thick wood for
blocking. The blocking is usually the same dimensions as the studs.
 Example: 2 × 6 blocking is normally used with 2 × 6 studs, although 2 ×
4 blocking is acceptable.
5. You may use wood structural panel wall bracing on all stories and in all
wind speed and seismic design areas.

Wood structural panel wall bracing may be used on all stories and in all seismic and wind design
areas.
 Fireblocking
Fireblocking (also called firestopping) limits the spread of fires vertically
between stories in concealed wood-framed walls and horizontally in long
concealed areas such as double walls, framed openings, and drop soffits
above cabinets. Concealed vertical spaces in wood-framed walls can act
like a chimney providing fire an easy and rapid path between stories. Lack
of fireblocking increases the chance of property damage and loss of life
during a fire. Lack of fireblocking is a common reason for failing
government inspections.
Do not confuse fireblocking with draftstopping. Draftstopping limits the
horizontal movement of air in concealed floor/ceiling assemblies.
WHERE FIREBLOCKING IS REQUIRED
1. Install fireblocking in any concealed wall space if an opening exists that
allows fire to spread from one story to another or from a lower story
into the attic. Examples of such openings include: openings for
plumbing pipes, openings for electrical wires and conduit, HVAC duct
chases between stories, laundry chutes, and openings at the tops of
framed columns, niches, and arches.
2. Install fireblocking in concealed wall spaces at every ceiling and floor
level. An intact top and bottom plate usually provides fireblocking in
platform framing.
3. Install fireblocking where concealed vertical and horizontal wall spaces
intersect. Examples of concealed horizontal spaces include soffits for
kitchen cabinets and recessed vanity lights, and drop ceilings.
4. Install fireblocking between stair stringers at the top and bottom of each
flight of stairs.
5. Install fireblocking around chimneys and flues where they intersect
framing at floor and ceiling levels.
6. Install fireblocking in concealed wall spaces if the concealed space is
open for more than 10 feet horizontally. A common example of a long
concealed horizontal wall space is a double wall built using two rows of
staggered studs. Another example is a large arched opening between
rooms.
Install fireblocking in framed columns, framed arches, and similar openings between stories.
Install sprayfoam fireblocking at penetrations for wires, pipes, and ducts. Many jurisdictions require
listed caulk, not spray foam.

FIREBLOCKING MATERIALS AND INSTALLATION

1. You may use any of the following fireblocking materials:(a) two-inch
thick lumber (example: a 2 × 4), or (b) two pieces of one-inch thick
lumber with staggered joints (example: two 1 × 4), or (c) at least 2 3/32-
inch thick wood structural panels, or (d) at least 3/4-inch thick
particleboard, or (e) at least 1/2-inch thick drywall, or (f) at least 1/4-inch
thick cement-based millboard, or (g) unfaced batts or blankets of
mineral wool or fiberglass insulation if it is secured in place.
2. Install backing at any joints in fireblocking material when using wood
structural panels or particleboard. Use the same fireblocking material
for the backing. Example: if a joint exists in OSB fireblocking material,
place another piece of the same OSB material over the joint. Most
general codes do not state how far to extend the backing.
3. Do not use loose fill insulation as a fireblocking material unless it is
specifically tested and approved for the intended location and
 installation method.
4. Repair fireblocking that is damaged or penetrated by pipes, ducts, or
other materials.
 Wall Penetration Flashing

I t is not possible to overstate the importance of flashing to the long-term

integrity and health of your home. Sealants such as caulk degrade over
time and require maintenance. Exterior wall coverings move and crack
creating gaps into which moisture can flow. People often do not maintain
caulking and sealants as they should. The best long-term solution to
avoiding moisture intrusion is a combination of a water-resistive building
wrap and flashing integrated to form a drainage plane that prevents
moisture from reaching vulnerable wood framing materials and drains the
moisture away from the structure.

Kick-out flashing is inserted between the underside of the roof-covering layer and a sidewall to
redirect water away from the sidewall. Flashing should be at least 4" tall and 4" wide.
FLASHING GENERAL REQUIREMENTS
1. Use only corrosion-resistant flashing material such as aluminum,
galvanized steel, and peel-and-stick material. Corrosion resistance
includes fasteners or other materials used to secure the flashing.
2. Use flashing, fasteners and other materials that are compatible with each
other and with surrounding materials. Incompatible materials will react
with each other and degrade over time. Example: do not use galvanized
material with aluminum or with copper.
3. Flash and seal all wall penetrations and other vulnerable areas so that
moisture will not enter the structure. Flash and seal any point where
moisture could enter the structure regardless of whether it is mentioned
in the list of areas where flashing is specifically required.
4. Install flashing “shingle fashion” so that upper flashing laps over lower
flashing resulting in a drainage plane that will drain water toward a
designed discharge point. This includes integrating flashing with the
water-resistive barrier.
5. Extend flashing to the surface of the exterior wall finish material if
necessary to assure that water is drained. This may be necessary with
brick veneer, at horizontal joints in panel siding, with Z flashing at
window and door headers, and at other drainage points.
FLASHING REQUIRED LOCATIONS
1. Install flashing at all window and door openings. Refer to the window
and door manufacturer’s installation instructions and to the instructions
for any weather-resistive material (such as house wrap) or flashing
material.
2. Install pan flashing at the window and door sills unless the window or
door manufacturer’s instructions state otherwise. Integrate the pan
flashing with jamb (side) flashing and with header (top) and with the
weather-resistive barrier. Install all window and door flashing so that
water drains away from the opening and out from the structure.
3. Install sidewall flashing where chimneys or other masonry construction
intersect with walls.
4. Install projecting lips (sometimes called kick-out flashing) at chimneys
and other sidewalls where a roof extends past a vertical sidewall. Kick-
out flashing helps divert water away from this vulnerable intersection.
5. Install header/sidewall flashing under and at the ends of all copings and
sills including masonry, metal, and wood.
6. Install header/sidewall flashing above all wood trim that projects from
the adjoining wall and forms a shelf where water can collect.
7. Install flashing at the attachment point of exterior porches, decks,
balconies, stairs, or floor assemblies to wood-framed construction.
8. Install sidewall flashing at all roof and wall intersections.
 How to Flash a Window and a Door

Install a water-resistant barrier such as flexible flashing to the sheathing beneath the window
opening. Attach the barrier at the top only so material may be slipped underneath later. Install a metal

or peel-and-stick window pan in the opening. Cut small patches of adhesive membrane to cover the

corners where the pan climbs up the side jambs. Note: If building wrap has already been installed,

remove just enough to expose the exterior wall sheathing around the window opening.
Cut strips of self-adhesive flashing membrane and apply them to the wall at each side of the window
opening. The flashing should extend into the window opening an amount roughly equal to the thickness

of the wall. Make slits in the flashing at the top and bottom and fold over to cover the side jambs and

the vertical portion of the pan. Apply a bead of adhesive caulk around the sides and top of the opening.
Install the window according to the manufacturer’s directions. Apply a strip of self-adhesive flashing
membrane across the top of the opening, covering the top window nailing flange.
Install building wrap according to the manufacturer’s instructions. The edges of the wrap at the
window opening should be secured to the flanges with building wrap tape supplied by the building

wrap manufacturer. At the bottom of the window, slide the top edge of the building wrap behind the

moisture barrier that was left unfastened at the bottom.

 Roof Systems

A lthough the installation of roof coverings and flashings are also

covered by most building codes, the primary interest in roof systems
falls in the structural area. The number and size of the rafters or
trusses is a vital element of home design, as are the methods for fastening
these elements to the house structure. If you live in a coastal area or any
region that is prone to earthquakes or hurricanes, a separate set of codes
exists for your roof system. Be sure to enforce its more rigorous standards
when you build.
RIDGE, VALLEY & HIP RAFTER FRAMING
1. Install at least a one-inch (nominal thickness) ridgeboard at roof ridges
in houses built with rafters (truss-built roofs do not have ridgeboards).
Install a ridgeboard that is at least as deep as the (plumb) cut end of the
rafter. Install rafters across from each other (within 1 1/2") at the
ridgeboard. You may omit the ridgeboard if you secure the rafters to
each other with a gusset plate.
2. Install at least a two-inch (nominal thickness) hip rafter and valley rafter
at all hips and valleys, including valleys formed when one roof is
framed on top of another.
3. Support hip and valley rafters at the ridge with a brace to a load-bearing
wall, or design the hip and valley rafters to bear the load at the ridge.
4. Design and support ridge, hip and valley rafters as beams, when the roof
pitch is less than 3/12.
5. Design and support the ridge as a beam and design the walls supporting
the ridge board to bear the ridgeboard load, when framing cathedral and
vaulted ceilings without ceiling joists and rafter ties.
A roof system comprises rafters or trusses that support roof sheathing. The sheathing is covered with
an underlayment and roofing materials. Soffits, flashing, and ventilation are also important parts of the

roof system.
Rafters have specific names that are assigned according to their function in the roof system.
Position rafters across from each other on a ridgeboard or beam that is at least as deep as the rafter
plumb cut.

PURLINS
1. You may use purlins to support rafters that would otherwise span a
greater distance than allowed. Example: a properly installed purlin at
the center of an 18-foot long rafter would allow you to use nine-feet as
the rafter span distance.
2. Install purlins that are at least the same depth as the rafters they support.
Example: use a 2 × 6 purlin to support a 2 × 6 rafter.
 3. Use at least one 2 × 4 brace to carry the purlin load to a load-bearing
wall. The purlin brace length should not exceed eight feet without
additional bracing (usually an additional 2 × 4 nailed to the brace).
Purlin braces should bear on a load-bearing wall and may not slope at
less than a 45° angle from horizontal. Space the purlin braces not more
than four feet apart.

Use purlins to support rafters if the rafter span is longer than allowed.

COLLAR TIES
1. Install 1 × 4 or larger collar ties or use a 1 1/4 inch × 20-gauge ridge
strap between rafters to resist ridge uplift by wind force. You may omit
collar ties in vaulted and cathedral ceilings when you design and
support the ridge as a beam.
 2. Space collar ties not more than four feet on center.
3. Locate collar ties in the upper one-third of the attic space.
4. Connect collar ties and rafters as specified in Table 12.
5. Verify collar tie requirements with the local building official and with
the Wood Frame Construction Manual in high wind design areas, when
the roof slope is less than 3/12, and when the roof span is greater than
36 feet.
RAFTER & CEILING JOIST BEARING ON SUPPORT
1. Install rafters and ceiling joists with at least 1 1/2 inches of the rafter or
joist bearing on supporting wood members (such as a top plate or a
valley rafter) and at least three inches of the rafter or joist bearing on
masonry or concrete.
2. Toenail rafters to the top plate as specified in Table 12.
3. Install sill plates with a bearing area of at least 48 square inches when
the sill plate bears on concrete or masonry. This means that the sill plate
should have at least 48 square inches of surface area in contact with the
masonry or concrete.
RAFTER & CEILING JOIST BRIDGING & LATERAL SUPPORT
1. Install bridging on rafters and ceiling joists deeper than 2 × 12 (six to
one depth to thickness ratio). Space bridging not more than every eight
feet. Bridging should consist of solid full depth blocking, wood or metal
diagonal bridging, or by nailing at least a 1 × 3 wood strip to each rafter
or ceiling joist. Bridging is required by some building officials on
ceiling joists smaller than 2 × 12.
2. Install lateral support at bearing points on rafters and ceiling joists
deeper than 2 × 10 (five to one depth to thickness ratio).
CEILING JOIST NAILING TO RAFTER
1. Toenail all rafters to the top plate as specified in Table 12 regardless of
whether the rafter is or is not parallel to the ceiling joist.
2. Connect one rafter to one ceiling joist when the ceiling joists are
parallel to the rafters. Facenail these ceiling joists to rafters using 16d
common nails or 40d box nails. (See Table 16, page 88.)
 3. Connect one rafter to one rafter tie and connect the rafter tie to the
corresponding rafter on the other side of the roof when the ceiling joists
are not parallel to the rafters. Install the rafter ties as close to the ceiling
joists as practical. Facenail rafters ties to rafters using the quantity of
16d common nails or 40d box nails indicated in Table 16. Use 2 × 4 or
larger lumber for rafter ties. Connecting rafters to ceiling joists or to
rafter ties helps the walls resist outward thrust pressure from the roof.
4. Lap ceiling joists that meet over interior walls or beams at least 3 inches
and facenail using the same quantity and type of nails indicated in Table
16. Apply this requirement when the ceiling joists are designed to resist
rafter lateral thrust. This requirement usually applies when the ceiling
joists are attached to the rafters.
5. You may butt the ends of ceiling joists together over interior walls or
beams fasten the ceiling joists as specified in Table 12. if the ceiling
joists are not designed to resist rafter lateral thrust. This exception
usually applies when the ceiling joists are not attached to the rafters.

Install collar ties in the upper 1/3 of the attic spaced every 4 ft.
Connect one ceiling joist to one rafter when the ceiling joists and rafters are parallel.
Connect one rafter tie to one rafter and to one ceiling joist.

CEILING JOIST NAILING TO RAFTER EXCEPTIONS

1. Note the following exceptions to the quantity of nails required by codes:
(a) you may reduce the required quantity of nails by 25% if the nails are
clinched (the pointed ends sticking out from the wood are bent over),
(b) you may use fewer fasteners if you support the ridge board on load-
bearing walls or if you design and support the ridge as a beam,
(c) you may use a smaller roof span column if you install purlins to support
the rafters, Example: if you install purlins at the center of rafters with a
roof span of 24 feet, you may reduce the roof span by 50% and use the
12 feet roof span column,
(d) you may reduce the actual rafter slope by one-third if you substitute
rafter ties for ceiling joists, Example: if the actual rafter slope is 9/12,
 use 6/12 as the adjusted rafter slope, but because there is no 6/12 slope
row, use the nearest more conservative 5/12 row,
(e) increase the quantity of nails in the table if the ceiling joists or rafter
ties are not located at the bottom of the attic space.
Table 16: Nail Quantities Ceiling Joists & Rafter
Ties to Rafters
GROUND SNOW LOAD (PSF) 20
Rafter Slope 3/12
Rafter Spacing (inches) 12, 16, 24
Roof Span (feet)
12 20 28 36
4 6 8 10
5 8 10 13
7 11 15 21
Rafter Slope 4/12
Rafter Spacing (inches) 12, 16, 24
Roof Span (feet)
12 20 28 36
3 5 6 8
4 6 8 10
5 8 12 15
Rafter Slope 5/12
Rafter Spacing (inches) 12, 16, 24
Roof Span (feet)
12 20 28 36
3 4 5 6
3 5 6 8
4 7 9 12
Rafter Slope 7/12
Rafter Spacing (inches) 12, 16, 24
Roof Span (feet)
12 20 28 36
3 4 4 5
3 4 5 6
3 5 7 9
Rafter Slope 9/12
Rafter Spacing (inches) 12, 16, 24
Roof Span (feet)
12 20 28 36
3 3 4 4
3 4 4 5
3 4 6 7
Rafter Slope 12/12
Rafter Spacing (inches) 12, 16, 24
Roof Span (feet)
12 20 28 36
3 3 3 3
3 3 4 4
3 4 4 5
 GROUND SNOW LOAD (PSF) 30
Rafter Slope 3/12
Rafter Spacing (inches) 12, 16, 24
Roof Span (feet)
12 20 28 36
4 6 8 11
5 8 11 14
7 11 16 21
Rafter Slope 4/12
Rafter Spacing (inches) 12
Roof Span (feet)
12 20 28 36
3 5 6 8
4 6 8 11
5 9 12 16
Rafter Slope 5/12
Rafter Spacing (inches) 12, 16, 24
Roof Span (feet)
12 20 28 36
3 4 5 7
3 5 7 9
4 7 10 13
Rafter Slope 7/12
Rafter Spacing (inches) 12, 16, 24
Roof Span (feet)
12 20 28 36
3 3 3 5
3 4 4 6
3 5 5 9
Rafter Slope 9/12
Rafter Spacing (inches) 12, 16, 24
Roof Span (feet)
12 20 28 36
3 3 3 4
3 3 3 5
3 4 4 7
Rafter Slope 12/12
Rafter Spacing (inches) 12, 16, 24
Roof Span (feet)
12 20 28 36
3 3 3 3
3 3 3 4
3 3 3 6
 GROUND SNOW LOAD (PSF) 50
Rafter Slope 3/12
Rafter Spacing (inches) 12, 16, 24
Roof Span (feet)
12 20 28 36
5 8 12 15
6 11 15 20
9 16 23 30
Rafter Slope 4/12
Rafter Spacing (inches) 12, 16, 24
Roof Span (feet)
12 20 28 36
4 6 9 11
5 8 12 15
7 12 17 22
Rafter Slope 5/12
Rafter Spacing (inches) 12, 16, 24
Roof Span (feet)
12 20 28 36
3 5 7 9
4 7 9 12
6 10 14 18
Rafter Slope 7/12
Rafter Spacing (inches) 12, 16, 24
Roof Span (feet)
12 20 28 36
3 4 5 7
3 5 7 9
4 7 10 13
Rafter Slope 9/12
Rafter Spacing (inches) 12, 16, 24
Roof Span (feet)
12 20 28 36
3 3 4 5
3 4 5 7
3 6 8 10
Rafter Slope 12/12
Rafter Spacing (inches) 12, 16, 24
Roof Span (feet)
12 20 28 36
3 3 3 4
3 3 4 5
3 4 6 8
 GROUND SNOW LOAD (PSF) 70
Rafter Slope 3/12
Rafter Spacing (inches) 12, 16, 24
Roof Span (feet)
12 20 28 36
6 11 15 20
8 14 20 26
12 21 30 39
Rafter Slope 4/12
Rafter Spacing (inches) 12, 16, 24
Roof Span (feet)
12 20 28 36
5 8 12 15
6 11 15 20
9 16 23 29
Rafter Slope 5/12
Rafter Spacing (inches) 12, 16, 24
Roof Span (feet)
12 20 28 36
4 7 9 12
5 9 12 16
7 13 18 23
Rafter Slope 7/12
Rafter Spacing (inches) 12, 16, 24
Roof Span (feet)
12 20 28 36
3 5 7 9
4 6 9 11
5 9 13 17
Rafter Slope 9/12
Rafter Spacing (inches) 12, 16, 24
Roof Span (feet)
12 20 28 36
3 4 5 7
3 5 7 9
 4 7 10 13
Rafter Slope 12/12
Rafter Spacing (inches) 12, 16, 24
Roof Span (feet)
12 20 28 36
3 3 4 5
3 4 5 7
3 6 8 10

RAFTER AND TRUSS CONNECTION TO WALLS

1. Attach trusses and rafters to the supporting walls as specified in Table
12. This applies when: (a) roof uplift force is not more than 200 pounds
and the trusses and rafters are spaced not more than 24 inches on center;
or when (b) the wind speed is not more than 115 mph., and the wind
exposure category is B and the roof span is not more than 32 feet, and
the roof pitch is at least 5/12. The truss design drawings supersede this
requirement.
2. Refer to the IRC or engineered plans for wall attachment requirements
when the limitations in #1 above do not apply. Some building inspectors
require hurricane ties on all trusses and rafters.

Hurricane ties (also called clips) are recommended for all rafter or truss connections to walls. In some
areas they are required.
Ceiling Joist & Rafter Span Definitions
Selecting the correct size and type of ceiling joist requires that you
know whether the attic may be used for storage. Selecting the correct
size and type of rafter requires that you know the loads imposed by roof
covering materials and loads imposed by snow accumulation on the
roof.
Use these attic storage definitions to help you determine the correct
ceiling joist span table. Access to attics with limited storage may be
through a scuttle hole or by pull-down stairs. If attic access is by a
permanent stairway, then consider the attic to be habitable space and
use the bedroom floor joist span tables instead of the ceiling joist span
tables.
These attic storage definitions do not affect the requirements for
access to attics. Refer to the Attic Access section (page 91) for attic
access requirements.

An attic without storage, built with joists and rafters, has less than 42"
between the top of the ceiling joists and the bottom of the rafters. An
attic without storage, built with trusses, has not more than two adjacent
trusses with the same web configuration that could contain a cube not
more than 42" wide and 24" tall located in the same plane (area) of the
truss.

An attic with limited storage, built with joists and rafters, has at least
42" between the top of the ceiling joists and the bottom of the rafters.
An attic with limited storage, built with trusses, has at least three
adjacent trusses with the same web configuration that could contain a
cube more than 42" wide and 24" tall located in the same plane (area)
of the truss. An attic with limited storage is designed with an additional
10 pounds per square foot live load compared to an attic without
storage. Verify the storage capacity of truss-built attics with the truss
engineer before using the attic for storage.

Roof live and snow load. Use the roof live load 20 psf tables in areas
where the design ground snow load is less than (<) 30 psf. Use the
rafter snow load tables in areas of the country with ground snow loads
of 30 psf or more. Verify the design ground snow load with the local
building official.

Rafter dead loads. Use the 10 psf rafter dead load columns when using
one layer of roof coverings such as fiberglass shingles and wood. Use
the 20 psf rafter dead load columns when using roof coverings such as
tile and slate.

“Limited storage” in an attic with joists and rafters requires a clear span of 42" tall. In an attic
built with trusses, you must have at least 3 consecutive bays where a 24" high by 42" wide cube

can pass through without changing direction.

CEILING JOIST & RAFTER DEFLECTION
1. All ceiling joist spans in the tables use L/240 deflection, where L is the
length of the joist or rafter in inches divided by 240.
2. All rafter spans in the tables use L/180 deflection.
CEILING JOIST & RAFTER SPAN TABLES (SELECTED)
1. Use the following tables to determine the maximum unsupported
horizontal distance that ceiling joists and rafters can span.
2. Refer to the IRC or to the AF&PA Span Tables for Joists and Rafters to
determine spans for lumber widths, species, grades, and snow load
factors not in these tables.
3. These tables apply to roof systems framed using standard two-inch
(nominal thickness) dimension lumber. An engineer must design roof
truss systems.
Table 18: Ceiling Joist Spans 16" on Center
Uninhabitable Attics, No Storage
SPECIES Douglas fir
GRADE 2
2 × 6 FT.-IN. 17-8
2 × 8 FT.-IN. 23-4
2 × 10 FT.-IN. >26-0

SPECIES Hem fir

GRADE 2
2 × 6 FT.-IN. 16-6
2 × 8 FT.-IN. 21-9
2 × 10 FT.-IN. >26-0

SPECIES Southern pine

GRADE 2
2 × 6 FT.-IN. 16-11
2 × 8 FT.-IN. 21-7
2 × 10 FT.-IN. >25-7

SPECIES Spruce-pine-fir
GRADE 2
2 × 6 FT.-IN. 16-11
2 × 8 FT.-IN. 22-4
2 × 10 FT.-IN. >26-0
Table 19: Ceiling Joist Spans 24" on Center
Uninhabitable Attics, No Storage
SPECIES Douglas fir
GRADE 2
2 × 6 FT.-IN. 15-0
2 × 8 FT.-IN. 19-1
2 × 10 FT.-IN. 23-3

SPECIES Hem fir

GRADE 2
2 × 6 FT.-IN. 14-5
2 × 8 FT.-IN. 18-6
2 × 10 FT.-IN. 22-7

SPECIES Southern pine

GRADE 2
2 × 6 FT.-IN. 13-11
2 × 8 FT.-IN. 17-7
2 × 10 FT.-IN. 20-11

SPECIES Spruce-pine-fir
GRADE 2
2 × 6 FT.-IN. 14-9
2 × 8 FT.-IN. 18-9
2 × 10 FT.-IN. 22-11
Table 20: Ceiling Joist Spans 16" on Center
uninhabitable attics With limited Storage
SPECIES Douglas fir
GRADE 2
2 × 6 FT.-IN. 13-9
2 × 8 FT.-IN. 17-5
2 × 10 FT.-IN. 21-3

SPECIES Hem fir

GRADE 2
2 × 6 FT.-IN. 12-8
2 × 8 FT.-IN. 16-0
2 × 10 FT.-IN. 19-7

SPECIES Southern pine

GRADE 2
2 × 6 FT.-IN. 12-0
2 × 8 FT.-IN. 15-3
2 × 10 FT.-IN. 18-1

SPECIES Spruce-pine-fir
GRADE 2
2 × 6 FT.-IN. 12-10
2 × 8 FT.-IN. 16-3
2 × 10 FT.-IN. 19-10
Table 21: Ceiling Joist Spans 24" on Center
Uninhabitable Attics With Limited Storage
SPECIES Douglas fir
GRADE 2
2 × 6 FT.-IN. 10-8
2 × 8 FT.-IN. 13-6
2 × 10 FT.-IN. 16-5

SPECIES Hem fir

GRADE 2
2 × 6 FT.-IN. 10-4
2 × 8 FT.-IN. 13-1
2 × 10 FT.-IN. 16-0

SPECIES Southern pine

GRADE 2
2 × 6 FT.-IN. 9-10
2 × 8 FT.-IN. 12-6
2 × 10 FT.-IN. 14-9

SPECIES Spruce-pine-fir
GRADE 2
2 × 6 FT.-IN. 10-6
2 × 8 FT.-IN. 13-3
2 × 10 FT.-IN. 16-3
Table 22: Rafter Spans 16" on Center, Roof Live
Load 20 psf, Ceiling Not Attached
DEAD LOAD SPECIES-GRADE Douglas fir - 2
10 PSF 2 × 6 FT.-IN. 14-4
10 PSF 2 × 8 FT.-IN. 18-2
10 PSF 2 × 10 FT.-IN. 22-3
20 PSF 2 × 6 FT.-IN. 12-5
20 PSF 2 × 8 FT.-IN. 15-9
20 PSF 2 × 10 FT.-IN. 19-6

DEAD LOAD SPECIES-GRADE Hem fir - 2

10 PSF 2 × 6 FT.-IN. 14-2
10 PSF 2 × 8 FT.-IN. 17-11
10 PSF 2 × 10 FT.-IN. 21-11
20 PSF 2 × 6 FT.-IN. 12-3
20 PSF 2 × 8 FT.-IN. 15-6
20 PSF 2 × 10 FT.-IN. 18-11

DEAD LOAD SPECIES-GRADE Southern pine - 2

10 PSF 2 × 6 FT.-IN. 13-6
10 PSF 2 × 8 FT.-IN. 17-1
10 PSF 2 × 10 FT.-IN. 20-3
20 PSF 2 × 6 FT.-IN. 11-8
20 PSF 2 × 8 FT.-IN. 14-9
20 PSF 2 × 10 FT.-IN. 17-6

DEAD LOAD SPECIES-GRADE Spruce pine fir - 2

10 PSF 2 × 6 FT.-IN. 14-4
10 PSF 2 × 8 FT.-IN. 18-2
10 PSF 2 × 10 FT.-IN. 22-3
20 PSF 2 × 6 FT.-IN. 12-5
20 PSF 2 × 8 FT.-IN. 15-9
20 PSF 2 × 10 FT.-IN. 19-3
Table 23: Rafter Spans 24" on Center, Roof Live
Load 20 psf, Ceiling Not Attached
DEAD LOAD SPECIES-GRADE Douglas fir - 2
10 PSF 2 × 6 FT.-IN. 11-11
10 PSF 2 × 8 FT.-IN. 15-1
10 PSF 2 × 10 FT.-IN. 18-5
20 PSF 2 × 6 FT.-IN. 10-4
20 PSF 2 × 8 FT.-IN. 13-0
20 PSF 2 × 10 FT.-IN. 15-11

DEAD LOAD SPECIES-GRADE Hem fir - 2

10 PSF 2 × 6 FT.-IN. 11-7
10 PSF 2 × 8 FT.-IN. 14-8
10 PSF 2 × 10 FT.-IN. 17-10
20 PSF 2 × 6 FT.-IN. 10-0
20 PSF 2 × 8 FT.-IN. 12-8
20 PSF 2 × 10 FT.-IN. 15-6

DEAD LOAD SPECIES-GRADE Southern pine - 2

10 PSF 2 × 6 FT.-IN. 11-0
10 PSF 2 × 8 FT.-IN. 10-11
10 PSF 2 × 10 FT.-IN. 16-6
20 PSF 2 × 6 FT.-IN. 9-6
20 PSF 2 × 8 FT.-IN. 12-1
20 PSF 2 × 10 FT.-IN. 14-4

DEAD LOAD SPECIES-GRADE Spruce pine fir - 2

10 PSF 2 × 6 FT.-IN. 11-9
10 PSF 2 × 8 FT.-IN. 14-10
10 PSF 2 × 10 FT.-IN. 18-2
20 PSF 2 × 6 FT.-IN. 10-2
20 PSF 2 × 8 FT.-IN. 12-10
20 PSF 2 × 10 FT.-IN. 15-8
Table 24: Rafter Spans 16" on Center, Ground
Snow Load 30 psf, Ceiling Not Attached
DEAD LOAD SPECIES-GRADE Douglas fir - 2
10 PSF 2 × 6 FT.-IN. 12-1
10 PSF 2 × 8 FT.-IN. 15-4
10 PSF 2 × 10 FT.-IN. 18-9
20 PSF 2 × 6 FT.-IN. 10-10
20 PSF 2 × 8 FT.-IN. 13-8
20 PSF 2 × 10 FT.-IN. 16-9

DEAD LOAD SPECIES-GRADE Hem fir - 2

10 PSF 2 × 6 FT.-IN. 11-9
10 PSF 2 × 8 FT.-IN. 14-11
10 PSF 2 × 10 FT.-IN. 18-2
20 PSF 2 × 6 FT.-IN. 10-6
20 PSF 2 × 8 FT.-IN. 13-4
20 PSF 2 × 10 FT.-IN. 16-3

DEAD LOAD SPECIES-GRADE Southern pine - 2

10 PSF 2 × 6 FT.-IN. 11-2
10 PSF 2 × 8 FT.-IN. 14-2
10 PSF 2 × 10 FT.-IN. 16-10
20 PSF 2 × 6 FT.-IN. 10-0
20 PSF 2 × 8 FT.-IN. 12-8
20 PSF 2 × 10 FT.-IN. 15-1

DEAD LOAD SPECIES-GRADE Spruce pine fir - 2

10 PSF 2 × 6 FT.-IN. 11-11
10 PSF 2 × 8 FT.-IN. 15-1
10 PSF 2 × 10 FT.-IN. 18-5
20 PSF 2 × 6 FT.-IN. 10-8
20 PSF 2 × 8 FT.-IN. 13-6
20 PSF 2 × 10 FT.-IN. 16-6
Table 25: Rafter Spans 24" on Center, Ground
Snow Load 30 psf, Ceiling not Attached
DEAD LOAD SPECIES-GRADE Douglas fir - 2
10 PSF 2 × 6 FT.-IN. 9-10
10 PSF 2 × 8 FT.-IN. 12-6
10 PSF 2 × 10 FT.-IN. 15-3
20 PSF 2 × 6 FT.-IN. 8-10
20 PSF 2 × 8 FT.-IN. 11-2
20 PSF 2 × 10 FT.-IN. 13-8

DEAD LOAD SPECIES-GRADE Hem fir - 2

10 PSF 2 × 6 FT.-IN. 9-7
10 PSF 2 × 8 FT.-IN. 12-2
10 PSF 2 × 10 FT.-IN. 14-10
20 PSF 2 × 6 FT.-IN. 8-7
20 PSF 2 × 8 FT.-IN. 10-10
20 PSF 2 × 10 FT.-IN. 13-3

DEAD LOAD SPECIES-GRADE Southern pine - 2

10 PSF 2 × 6 FT.-IN. 9-2
10 PSF 2 × 8 FT.-IN. 11-7
10 PSF 2 × 10 FT.-IN. 13-9
20 PSF 2 × 6 FT.-IN. 8-2
20 PSF 2 × 8 FT.-IN. 10-4
20 PSF 2 × 10 FT.-IN. 12-3

DEAD LOAD SPECIES-GRADE Spruce pine fir - 2

10 PSF 2 × 6 FT.-IN. 9-9
10 PSF 2 × 8 FT.-IN. 12-4
10 PSF 2 × 10 FT.-IN. 15-1
20 PSF 2 × 6 FT.-IN. 8-8
20 PSF 2 × 8 FT.-IN. 11-0
20 PSF 2 × 10 FT.-IN. 13-6
 Roof Truss Installation
TRUSS DESIGN & BRACING WRITTEN SPECIFICATIONS REQUIREMENTS
1. Use a qualified engineer to design all wood trusses such as roof and
floor trusses. The engineer and/or truss manufacturer should provide
written truss design and installation specifications and deliver them to
the job site with the trusses. These specifications should include
engineering information, such as chord live and dead loads, and
assembly information, such as the size, species, and grade of each truss
member, and installation instructions, such as where each truss should
be located on the structure and how the trusses should be permanently
braced.
TRUSS INSTALLATION TOLERANCE RECOMMENDATIONS
1. Install trusses according to the installation tolerances contained in the
written truss specifications. Use the following installation tolerances
from the booklet Guide to Good Practice for Handling, Installation &
Bracing of Metal Plate Connected Wood Trusses only if the engineer
and/or truss manufacturer does not provide installation instructions. The
IRC does not specifically require installation to these tolerances;
however, installation to these tolerances is implied by the general IRC
requirement that components be installed according to manufacturer’s
installation instructions.
2. Install trusses so that a bow in either the top or bottom chord is not more
than L/200 or two inches, whichever is less. L is the length of the truss
chord in inches.
3. Install trusses that are out-of-plumb (vertical) by not more than D/50 or
two inches, whichever is less. D is the depth of the truss in inches at the
point of measurement.
4. Install trusses at load-bearing points not more than 1/4 inch from the
location on the plans.
5. Install trusses that use the top chord as the weight-bearing point with a
gap of not more than 1/2 inch between the inside of the load-bearing
support and the first diagonal or vertical truss web.
ALTERATION AND REPAIR OF TRUSSES
1. Do not alter trusses in any way, including cutting, notching, boring, and
splicing, without written instructions from a qualified engineer.
2. Do not use trusses to carry the weight of equipment (such as furnaces or
water heaters), use the attic area for storage, or hang storage units from
trusses unless the trusses have been designed to carry the additional
weight.
3. Do not repair damaged trusses without written instructions from a
qualified engineer.

Attic Access
GENERAL ATTIC ACCESS REQUIREMENTS
1. Provide an access opening to every attic with at least 30 square feet of
attic area and a vertical height of at least 30 inches at some point in the
30 square feet. Measure the vertical height from the top of the ceiling
joists (or truss bottom chord) to the bottom of the rafters (or truss top
chord).
2. Provide a rough opening (size before finishing) for a ceiling attic access
of at least 22 inches by 30 inches. Locate the opening in a hallway or
other readily accessible location. Locate the opening so that at least 30
inches of unobstructed headroom exists at some point above the
opening.
 3. Provide a rough opening (size before finishing) for a wall attic access of
at least 22 inches wide by 30 inches high.
4. You do not need to provide attic access if the ceiling and roof systems
are built using non-combustible materials. This is rare in residential
construction.
5. Refer to the IRC for additional access requirements if appliances are
located in the attic.
INSULATION CLEARANCE TO HEAT PRODUCING DEVICES
1. Provide at least three inches clearance between combustible insulation
and heat-producing devices such as recessed lighting fixtures and fan
motors. Most insulation used in modern homes is considered
combustible.
2. You may reduce the three-inch clearance requirement if the device is
listed for a lesser clearance and is installed according to manufacturer’s
instructions.
3. Install an insulation shield around any gas or oil vent that passes
through an attic or other insulated area (such as a floor/ceiling
assembly).
4. Use at least 26-gauge sheet metal for the insulation shield.
5. Extend the shield at least two inches above attic insulation material.
6. Secure the insulation shield to prevent movement of the shield.
Install an insulation shield around equipment vents that pass through insulation.
Exterior Components

T he primary function of the exterior components of a building is to keep

the elements out. Of these elements, the most destructive is water.
Water causes more damage than almost any other natural source,
including fire and termites. Water can destroy most building materials, and
it is an essential ingredient for mold growth.
In this chapter you will learn about three common water control issues.
Shingle roof coverings are the most common type of material for keeping
water that falls on the roof out of the home. You will learn about the code
requirements for shingle installation and about where to install flashing that
keeps water away from vulnerable areas, such as where roofs intersect with
walls and chimneys. You will also learn about code requirements for water
control around your home so that water stays out of basements and crawl
spaces.
This chapter also contains information about fireplaces and chimneys.
Water infiltration is common around these components, and fire safety is an
additional important consideration.

In this chapter:
• Shingle Roof-Covering Installation
• Fireplaces & Chimneys
 Shingle Roof-Covering Installation

W hen it comes to installing roof coverings, it can be a little hard to

define where enforceable codes end and where ordinary best
practices begin. But it is safe to say that most codes contain
guidelines for installing roof coverings that, if followed, will ensure a long-
lasting roof that keeps moisture from penetrating your house. The following
information applies to all types of asphalt shingles. It does not include
asphalt-based roll roofing.
Always read and follow the shingle manufacturer’s instructions. They
are printed on every package of shingles. Details that seem minor, such as
failing to install the starter course and incorrectly installing nails can make
a big difference in how the shingles perform under stress. Failing to follow
instructions can void the shingle warranty.

“Asphalt shingles” is a fairly general description that includes three-tab, dimensional and laminated
shingles.
 Roof Slope & Sheathing
ROOF SLOPE RESTRICTION
1. Do not install shingles on roofs with a slope less than 2/12. Low slope
and flat roofs require solid membrane roofs or fully bonded roof
coverings.
2. Install a double underlayment layer under shingles on roofs with a slope
between 2/12 and 4/12.
3. Verify shingle manufacturer’s instructions about minimum roof slope.
Some do not allow installation on slopes less than 2 1/2/12.

Roof slope is measured by the number of inches the roof increases in height (rise) in 12" horizontally
(run).
ROOF DECK TYPE RESTRICTION
1. Install shingle roof covering only on solid sheathed roofs. In residential
construction this means roofs covered by OSB or plywood, which
includes virtually all houses built in the last generation or two.

Endorsed products for roofing underlayment include roofing felt (building paper) in both #15 and #30
thickness as well as self-adhesive ice dam underlayment. Elastomeric roof cement is used for minor

patching and sealing as well as for binding underlayment courses together.

UNDERLAYMENT SPECIFICATIONS
1. Use at least #15 roofing felt (also called building paper). This is the
most common shingle underlayment because #15 felt is very
inexpensive. Other material, such as modified bitumen sheets, may be
acceptable. Refer to general codes for other acceptable underlayment
materials.
UNDERLAYMENT APPLICATION FOR ROOF SLOPES 4-IN-12 AND GREATER
1. Begin at the eaves and apply at least a 36 inches wide strip of
underlayment parallel to the eaves.
2. Lap horizontal joints at least 2 inches with the upper strip over the lower
strip.
3. Lap end joints as specified by the shingle manufacturer. End joint laps
are usually between 4 and 6 inches.
4. Offset end joints by at least 6 feet.
5. Use sufficient fasteners to hold underlayment in place. The IRC does
not specify fastener type and quantity.
6. Minimize wrinkles and distortions in the underlayment. Wrinkles
should not interfere with the ability of the shingle’s sealing strips to
seal. Underlayment wrinkles and distortions can appear through the
shingles creating a cosmetic issue.
DRIP EDGE
1. Install drip edge flashing at eaves and at gable rakes.
2. Use drip edge flashing that extends at least 1/4 inch below the roof
sheathing and extends at least 2 inches up the roof deck.
3. Lap adjacent drip edge pieces at least 2 inches.
4. Attach drip edge using roofing nails spaced not more than 12 inches on
center.
5. Install underlayment under the drip edge at rakes.
6. Install underlayment over the drip edge at eaves.
Proper installation of underlayment is important for reducing roof leaks. The underlayment should
overlap the top of the drip edge at the eave, with the drip edge along the rake edges installed after the

underlayment so it overlaps and directs runoff onto the underlayment.

UNDERLAYMENT APPLICATION FOR ROOF SLOPES BETWEEN 2-IN-12 AND 4-IN-12

1. Begin at the eaves and apply at least a 19-inch-wide strip of
underlayment parallel to the eaves.
2. Begin again at the eaves and apply at least a 36-inch-wide strip of
underlayment.
3. Lap each successive layer at least 19 inches over the previous layer,
with the upper layer lapping over the lower layer.
4. Lap end joints at least six inches.
 5. Use sufficient fasteners to hold underlayment in place. Most codes do
not specify fastener type and quantity, although staples driven at six-
inch intervals are common.
6. Install drip edge as previously described.
UNDERLAYMENT APPLICATION IN ICE DAM AREAS
1. Install ice dam underlayment where there is a history of water backup at
the eaves caused by ice. Verify ice dam requirements with the local
building official. You do not need to install ice dam underlayment on
unconditioned detached accessory structures, such as an unheated
garage.
2. Install either a sheet of self-adhering, polymer-modified bitumen
roofing or at least two layers of roofing felt bonded together with
roofing cement. Begin the ice dam underlayment at the lowest edge of
all roof surfaces and extend it at least 24 inches beyond the exterior wall
of the building.
3. Measure distances horizontally, not up the roof sheathing. Begin the 24-
inch measurement from the interior side of the wall. Example: if the
eaves extend 12 inches, horizontally, from the exterior wall of the
building, extend the ice dam underlayment at least 39 inches,
horizontally, from the edge of the eaves (assuming a 2 × 4 wall).
Install one or two courses (depends on local codes) of fully-bonded, self-adhesive ice dam
underlayment in cold-weather climates. Ice dam underlayment helps prevent liquid water from running

under the shingles and leaking into your home.

Roof Flashing
Roof flashing used with asphalt shingles is typically made of metal:
primarily galvanized steel, aluminum, or copper. The timing for installing it
depends on the type of flashing. Some, such as valley flashing, is installed
prior to the finished roof covering (shingles). Other types, such as step-
flashing, is interwoven with the shingles during the installation process. In
some cases, formable, self-adhesive flashings can be used instead of metal.
In some code areas, roll roofing may be used as valley flashing—check
with your building inspector.
CLOSED-CUT VALLEY FLASHING
1. Before installing the shingles, install valley flashing material according
to the shingle manufacturer’s instructions. You may use at least a 36-
inch-wide strip of smooth roll roofing material as valley flashing
material with at least 18 inches on each side of the valley; or you may
use any open valley lining material.
2. Place nails at least six inches away from the valley centerline, unless
other spacing is approved by the shingle manufacturer.
3. Apply the shingles across one side of the valley at least 12 inches, or as
recommended by the shingle manufacturer.
4. Apply shingles from the other direction to before the valley centerline
and trim the edges, as recommended by the shingle manufacturer. Seal
the cut shingles in a closed-cut valley, as recommend by the
manufacturer. Sealing the cut shingles is frequently omitted.

Woven valleys are a common shingle valley treatment. Some manufacturers do not allow these valleys
when using laminated shingles.
Closed-cut valley shingles are cut in a straight line about 2" from the valley center line. The cut should
be on the side where the least amount of water is likely to flow.

CHIMNEY CRICKETS
1. Install a cricket (also called a saddle) on chimneys that are more than 30
inches wide in the dimension parallel to the roof ridgeline. A cricket is
not required if the chimney intersects the roof ridgeline. This also
applies to factory-built chimneys that are installed inside a wood
chimney chase.
2. Flash the cricket at the chimney wall using step and counter flashing
that is compatible with the roof covering material.
3. Install the cricket with a vertical height at the chimney based on Table
26. W is the width of the chimney. Leave at least a one-inch air space
between a wood-framed cricket and a masonry chimney wall.
STEP FLASHING
1. Install step flashing at the intersections of a sloped roof and a vertical
side wall. Use flashing that is at least four inches wide by four inches
high. Install kick-out flashing at the end of the wall to direct water away
from the side wall.
 2. Flash the intersection of a sloped roof and a chimney according to the
shingle manufacturer’s instructions. This typically includes step flashing
covered with counter flashing.
3. Flash other roof penetrations, such as plumbing and gas vents,
according to the shingle manufacturer’s instructions.
4. Flash skylights according to the skylight manufacturer’s instructions.

A cricket is a raised section of roof custom-bent metal flashing aide that fits on the high side of a
chimney to deflect runoff water so it doesn’t erode the chimney. Improper installation and flashing of

chimney crickets is a common cause of roof leaks.

Flash roof and sidewall intersections using step and counter flashing. Install kick-out flashing (inset)
at the end of the wall.
Flash all penetrations such as plumbing vents and equipment vents with preformed flashing, often
called boots. Make sure the flashing conforms to your roof slope.
Most skylights for residential installation come with a flashing kit. Improper installation and flashing
of skylights is a common cause of roof leaks.
 Table 26: Chimney Cricket Height
ROOF SLOPE CRICKET HEIGHT
12/12 1/2 W
8/12 1/3 W
6/12 1/4 W
4/12 1/6 W
3/12 1/8 W

Integrate kickout flashing with sidewall flashing and the water-resistive material.
A properly flashed roof/sidewall intersection includes roof covering underlayment, base and
counterflashing, water-resistive material, and kickout flashing.

Flash brick veneer using base and counterflashing that is integrated with the water-resistive material.
A headwall is where a roof rises to meet a sidewall. Flash headwalls using base and counterflashing
integrated with water-resistive material.

Roofing Fasteners
FASTENER TYPE & QUANTITY IN STANDARD SHINGLING CONDITIONS
1. Use the type and quantity of fasteners recommended by the shingle
manufacturer. Locate nails on the shingle strip precisely as
recommended by the shingle manufacturer. Some manufacturers
recommend installing nails below the black adhesive seal strip. Other
manufacturers leave a gap in the seal strip for installing nails. Do not
install nails above the seal strip unless allowed by the manufacturer.
Failure to comply with manufacturer’s installation instructions is a code
violation and may void the manufacturer’s warranty.
2. Use corrosion-resistant roofing nails (usually galvanized steel) with at
least a 12-gauge shank and a 3/8-inch-diameter head. Use nails long
enough to penetrate into the roof sheathing at least 3/4 inch and
completely through any sheathing that is less than 3/4-inch thick. Install
at least four nails per shingle strip, with a nail at one inch from each end
and two nails equally spaced in the center of the strip.
Staples as Shingle Fasteners
Staples are not endorsed in general codes as an approved shingle
fastener. Some shingle manufacturers allow staples, but seldom
recommend them. Avoid using staples as shingle fasteners in both new
construction and when replacing an existing shingle roof.
 Fireplaces & Chimneys

I nstalling a factory-built or gas fireplace is a do-it-yourself project

because you can design and build the fireplace frame to suit your needs
and add your own finish treatments. It all starts with some careful
planning. Once you decide on the fireplace model and determine where to
place it, order all of the vent pipes and fittings needed to complete the vent
run.
Note: Consult the manufacturer’s instructions for the specifications
regarding placement, clearances, and venting methods for your fireplace.
Start your planning by determining the best location for the fireplace.
Placing the unit next to an exterior wall simplifies the venting required. One
important specification for a direct-vented gas fireplace located in a
basement is that the termination cap (on the outside end of the vent) must
be 12 inches above the ground and away from openings such as windows
and doors.
For help with any of these planning issues, talk with knowledgeable
dealers in your area. They can help you choose the best fireplace model for
your situation and help you with venting and other considerations.
Remember that all installation specifications are governed by local building
codes and that a building permit will be required. Check with the building
department to make sure your plans conform to regulations. Notice: The
information on pages 102 to 103 apply specifically to masonry fireplaces,
but many are useful guidelines for gas fireplaces as well.

Masonry Fireplace Clearance to Combustible Materials

MASONRY FIREPLACE HEARTH EXTENSION CLEARANCE TO COMBUSTIBLE MATERIALS
1. The hearth extension is the area in front of the firebox. It must be made
of non-combustible material upon which sparks and hot materials from
the firebox may land without starting a fire. Tile and masonry units are
typical.
2. Build a hearth extension for a masonry fireplace at least 16 inches in
front of the firebox opening and at least eight inches to the sides of the
firebox opening, if the firebox opening is less than six square feet.
 3. Build a hearth extension for a masonry fireplace at least 20 inches in
front of the firebox opening and at least 12 inches to the side of the
firebox opening, if the firebox opening is six square feet or more.
4. Build a hearth extension for a factory-built fireplace according to the
fireplace manufacturer’s instructions. The hearth extension size is often
the same as for a masonry fireplace.

Provide a hearth extension (the area of the floor adjoining the fireplace) that meets minimum size
standards based on the square footage of the fireplace opening.

MASONRY FIREPLACE CLEARANCE TO MANTELS & TRIM

1. Locate all combustible mantels and wood trim at least six inches from a
masonry fireplace opening.
2. Provide at least one inch of clearance to the masonry firebox opening
for every 1/8 inch that combustible material projects from the fireplace
surround. This applies to materials within 12 inches of the fireplace
 opening. Example: locate one-inch thick fireplace mantel legs at least
eight inches from the fireplace opening. Example: locate greater than 12
inches from the fireplace opening any part of a fireplace mantel or
mantel leg that is more than 1 1/2 inches thick.
3. Provide clearance to combustible materials for a factory-built fireplace
according to the fireplace manufacturer’s instructions. The clearance is
often the same as for a masonry fireplace.
SPARK ARRESTOR & RAIN CAP
1. You are not required to install a spark arrestor or a rain cap on a
masonry chimney, unless the local building official requires one. They
are, however, recommended to protect the home and surrounding area
from fire and to protect the chimney and home interior from water
damage.
2. Comply with all of the following requirements for installed spark
arrestors: (a) make the unobstructed arrestor area at least four times the
area of the flue it serves; (b) make the arrestor screen using heat and
corrosion-resistant material equal to 19-gauge galvanized steel or 24-
gauge stainless steel; (c) build the arrestor screen so it does not pass 1/2-
inch-diameter spheres and does not obstruct 3/8-inch-diameter spheres;
(d) make the arrestor accessible for cleaning and make the cap
removable to allow for flue cleaning.
CHIMNEY USED AS APPLIANCE VENT
1. Have a qualified contractor evaluate a chimney before using it to vent
an appliance such as a gas furnace or water heater, an oil-fired furnace,
or a pellet stove. Chimneys that are too small may allow unsafe
backdrafting of carbon monoxide into your home. Chimneys that are too
large may allow water to condense in the chimney and cause
considerable damage to the chimney.
2. Do not use a chimney as a gas appliance vent if any side of the chimney
is exposed to the outdoors below the roofline. This means that a
chimney must be completely enclosed within the house walls until it
reaches the attic.
3. You may use a chimney as a vent for one draft hood-equipped gas water
heater if the area of the chimney flue as at least as large as the area of
 the draft hood outlet and not more than seven times the area of the draft
hood outlet.
4. Do not use a chimney as a vent for one fan-assisted, medium efficiency
gas furnace.
5. Do not connect an appliance vent to a masonry chimney flue if the area
of the appliance connector is larger than the area of the chimney flue.
6. Connect appliances, such as pellet fuel burning and oil fuel burning
appliances, to masonry chimney flues only if the flue: (a) is built with
an approved fire-clay liner, or (b) has been relined with a chimney
lining system listed for use in a masonry chimney and listed for use with
the appliance, or (c) is built using approved materials.
7. Install a permanent label in a conspicuous location warning occupants if
a chimney has been relined and warning them what types of appliances
may be connected to the chimney.
8. Have gas appliance vents connected to masonry chimney flues
according to the provisions for gas appliance vents in IRC Chapter 24.
Locate wood trim far enough from the firebox to avoid fires.

WOOD-BURNING FIREPLACE ENERGY EFFICIENCY REQUIREMENTS

1. Install an air barrier on fireplace walls.
2. Install doors with gaskets at fireplace openings.
3. Install a tight-fitting flue damper.
COMBUSTION AIR FOR FIREPLACES
1. Provide combustion air from outside for solid fuel-burning masonry and
factory-built fireplaces. Install combustion air ducts for factory-built
fireplaces according to manufacturer’s instructions.
2. Provide combustion air from the outside for vented gas and oil
fireplaces according to manufacturer’s instructions.
3. Locate the outside combustion air inlet at or below the firebox level.
Cover the inlet with a screen having 1/4-inch mesh.
4. Install combustion air openings and ducts that have an area of at least 6
sq. in. and not more than 55 sq. in. Use a combustion air duct that is
 designed for that purpose or keep the duct at least 1-inch away from
combustible materials within 5 feet from the firebox.
5. Locate the inside combustion air outlet in the back or side of the firebox
or at hearth level and not more than 24 inches from the firebox opening.
6. Install a closure mechanism at the combustion air outlet.

Factory-built Fireplaces
Factory-built fireplaces and chimneys include components tested, listed,
and labeled to be installed together as a system. Such fireplaces are usually
designed to burn solid fuels, such as wood, though they may be converted
to use gas if approved by the fireplace manufacturer. Do not mix
components from different manufacturers unless approved by the fireplace
manufacturer.
Fireplaces designed to burn only gas are not really fireplaces. They are
decorative gas appliances. Vented decorative gas appliances are more like a
water heater than like a fireplace. Unvented decorative gas appliances are
more like a gas range than like a fireplace. Install and use decorative gas
appliances according to manufacturer’s instructions and IRC Chapter 24.
Note that some jurisdictions do not allow unvented decorative gas
appliances. Also note that manufacturers of unvented decorative gas
appliances recommend limits on the duration of use.
Create wall surrounds for fireplaces with cementboard, which has some heat-resistant qualities and
also makes a good backer for ceramic tile—a popular choice for finished fireplace surrounds.
 Gas Fireplaces

A gas fireplace behaves more like a water heater than like a fireplace, but these appliances do
produce dangerous gases and are by their very nature a fire hazard. The two most common types

are direct-vent gas fireplaces, which produce heat that can contribute to your home heat plan

and are vented to the exterior, and vent-free gas fireplaces (not allowed in some states) that are

purely decorative. Because the amount of gas they consume is so small (comparable to a gas

range with all burners on), they do not require venting.

Vents for gas fireplaces must have a protective termination cap (supplied by manufacturer).
Factory-built fireplaces (including direct-vent and vent-free gas fireplaces) typically require
structural support. If the fireplace is recessed into a wall, structural support is in the form of a

mounting platform located on the other side.

FACTORY-BUILT FIREPLACE & CHIMNEY INSTALLATION
Install factory-built chimneys and fireplaces according to the
manufacturer’s instructions. These instructions include requirements for
hearth extensions, clearances to combustible materials, and installation of
combustion air ducts.
DECORATIVE CHIMNEY COVERS
Do not install decorative chimney covers, shrouds, or similar components at
the chimney termination unless the component is listed and labeled for use
with the particular fireplace system.
STRUCTURAL SUPPORT FOR FACTORY-BUILT FIREPLACES
Provide adequate structural support for factory-built fireplaces and
chimneys according to manufacturer’s recommendations.
Direct-vent gas fireplaces may be vented through a sidewall. Chimneys for wood-burning fireplaces
are vertical.
Heating & Air Conditioning

S afety is the primary focus of code provisions governing heating and air
conditioning systems. Improper appliance installation can cause the
appliance to malfunction, creating a fire hazard as well as the potential
for carbon monoxide poisoning. Fuel-burning appliances, such as gas and
oil furnaces, must be installed in safe locations and must be provided with
enough outside air to support fuel combustion. Vents for these appliances
must be installed so that they do not ignite combustible materials and so
that combustion gases are not circulated back into the building.
 In this chapter you will learn about the safe installation of heating and air
conditioning appliances and their associated venting equipment. You will
also learn about how to identify improperly installed forced-air ducts that
can increase your energy costs and decrease your appliance’s useful life.

In this chapter:
• HVAC Appliances
• HVAC Duct Installation
• Combustion Air for Fuel-burning Appliances
• Vents for Fuel-burning Appliances
 HVAC Appliances

H eating, ventilation, and air conditioning systems are often referred to

as a group by the term HVAC. This is because they share a common
purpose: to keep the air in your home comfortable. All HVAC
systems—even hot-water-based systems—rely on the flow of air to heat,
cool, and ventilate your home.
Most homes today include two separate major appliances in the HVAC
system: a furnace and a central air conditioning unit. In most cases, even
when the AC has been retrofitted, the appliances share ductwork.
The information in this chapter is intended mostly for general education
purposes and to assist with diagnosing system problems. Unless you are a
very experienced DIYer, installing and servicing HVAC equipment is a
job best left to professionals.
Central air conditioner parts include: (A) Power shutoff for service personnel, (B) Condenser unit, (C)
Fan, (D) Condenser coil, (E) Compressor, (F) Plenum, (G) Evaporator coil, (H) Blower motor, (I) Filter, (J)

Air return.
Gas furnace parts include: (A) Heat exchanger, (B) Circulating fan/blower motor, (C) Vent damper, (D)
Vent connector/flue, (E) Combustion chamber, (F) Burners, (G) Blower motor.

PROHIBITED LOCATIONS FOR APPLIANCE INSTALLATION

1. Do not locate gas or other fuel-burning appliances in: bedrooms,
bathrooms, toilet rooms, or storage closets. Do not draw combustion air
for any fuel-burning appliance from these rooms regardless of where the
appliance is located.
 2. Do not locate appliances anywhere that is not approved by the
manufacturer’s instructions.
3. Do not apply this provision to appliances powered by electricity.
EXCEPTIONS: PROHIBITED LOCATIONS FOR APPLIANCE INSTALLATION
1. You may install direct-vent appliances in prohibited locations if the
appliance draws all combustion air directly from the outdoors.
2. You may install vented room heaters, vented wall furnaces, vented
decorative appliances, and decorative appliances listed for installation in
vented, solid fuel-burning fireplaces (such as gas logs) in prohibited
locations if the room satisfies combustion air volume requirements.
3. You may install one listed, wall-mounted, unvented room heater in a
bathroom if the appliance has an oxygen depletion safety shutoff
system, if the appliance input rating is not more than 6,000 BTU/hour,
and if the bathroom satisfies combustion air volume requirements.
4. You may install one listed, wall-mounted, unvented room heater in a
bedroom if the appliance has an oxygen depletion safety shutoff system,
if the appliance input rating is not more than 10,000 BTU/hour, and if
the bedroom satisfies combustion air volume requirements.
5. You may install appliances in an enclosure accessible from the
prohibited locations if all combustion air is drawn directly from the
outdoors and if the enclosure is equipped with a self-closing door that is
weather-stripped.
6. The standard combustion air volume requirement is at least 50 cubic
feet per 1,000 BTU/hour appliance input rating. This standard volume
requirement does not apply if the home is tightly sealed with a known
air infiltration rate of less than 0.40 air changes per hour. Tightly sealed
homes are rare.
A typical forced air heating system delivers heated air to a room through registers while drawing cool
air through return ducts. The cool air is reheated in the furnace and recirculated for maximum

efficiency. A fresh air intake provides a constant supply of combustion air.

An air intake vent that draws combustion air into the system allows you to install appliances in areas
that lack adequate combustion air. The vent shown is for a high-efficiency gas furnace.
Electric baseboard heaters often are used to provide supplementary heat. Models (such as the one
above) that do not produce external temperatures greater than 125° F may be mounted directly to

drywall walls, but a clear space should be maintained between the appliance and the floor.

Electric Radiant (Baseboard) Heating Systems

Electric radiant heating systems provide heat to a single room. They usually
have no fan and provide heat by natural movement of the heated air and by
thermal radiation. They are common in small, seasonally occupied
buildings, some rural homes, and in buildings without ducts for forced-air
heating and cooling. These elements become very hot, and proper
installation is important to prevent fires and electrical problems.
INSTALLATION REQUIREMENTS
1. Install electric radiant heating panels according to manufacturer’s
installation instructions and applicable provisions of general and local
codes.
2. Install radiant panels parallel to wood framing members and fasten the
panels to the surface of the framing members or mount the panels
between framing members.
3. Install fasteners only in areas of the appliance’s radiant panel designed
for fasteners. Install fasteners at least 1/4 inch away from a heating
element.
4. Install radiant panels as complete units, unless listed and labeled for
field modifications.
 5. Do not install radiant panels on drywall unless the panel’s maximum
operating temperature is not more than 125 degrees Fahrenheit.

Estimate Your Heater Needs

1. Measure the area of the room in square feet (length × width):
2. Divide the area by 10 to get the baseline minimum wattage:
3. Add 5% for each newer window or 10% for each older window:
4. Add 10% for each exterior wall in the room:
5. Add 10% for each exterior door:
6. Add 10% if the space below is not insulated:
7. Add 20% if the space above is not well insulated:
8. Add 10% if ceiling is more than 8 ft. high:
9. Total of the baseline wattage plus all additions:
10. Divide this number by 250 (the wattage produced per foot of
standard baseboard heater):
11. Round up to a whole number. This is the minimum number of feet
of heater you need.

Appliances Installed in Garages

In warmer areas of the country some major household appliances are
routinely located in garages to conserve interior floorspace. Water heaters
are code-regulated to be installed in garages. Others, such as central
vacuum units, should be installed following the manufacturer’s instructions
and best practices, but typically are not subject to specific codes beyond
applicable wiring, plumbing, and fire safety codes.
ELEVATED APPLIANCES IN GARAGES
1. Elevate the appliance ignition source at least18 inches above the floor
when the appliance is located in a garage or is located in an
unconditioned room that opens directly into the garage. Appliances with
a potential ignition source include gas and electric water heaters, gas
and electric clothes dryers, gas and electric furnaces, and heat pumps
with auxiliary resistance-heating elements. Rooms that open directly
into the garage include storage and utility rooms that are not part of the
conditioned living space. These rooms include rooms separated from
the garage by a door opening into the garage.
2. Measure the elevation distance to the ignition source in the equipment,
not to the bottom of the equipment (unless the ignition source is at the
bottom of the equipment).
3. You may install appliances on the floor in rooms that are adjacent to a
garage but do not have an opening into the garage.
PROTECTION OF APPLIANCES FROM VEHICLES
1. Protect HVAC appliances and water heaters from vehicle impact. The
appliance or water heater does not need to be located in a garage or
carport to qualify for protection from vehicle impact. General codes do
not specify how to provide this protection. Common protection methods
include steel poles called bollards, vehicle tire stops, and encasing the
equipment in substantial framing.
Appliances such as water heaters that are installed in a garage must have the ignition source elevated
at least 18" off the floor.
 HVAC Appliance & Duct Sizing
APPLIANCE SIZING
1. Size heating and cooling appliances according to The Air Conditioning
Contractors of America (ACCA) Manual S or a similar approved
method. Manual S and Manual J account for conditions such as the
direction the structure faces, the size and type of windows and doors,
local temperature conditions, and insulation. Contractors should provide
a copy of the sizing calculations for all new construction and when
replacing existing appliances. Improper appliance sizing may cause
inefficient appliance operation or may allow excessive moisture to
remain in the home. Excessive moisture can damage the home and
provide moisture for mold growth.
DUCT DESIGN
1. Design duct systems according to ACCA Manual D or a similar
approved method. Contractors should provide a copy of the duct design
calculations for all new construction. Improper duct sizing and
installation can cause inefficient appliance operation and can cause
uneven temperatures in the home.

Air Conditioner Condensate Disposal

The process of removing heat from the air is often called air conditioning.
Water is a byproduct of air conditioning because water vapor condenses out
from the air when the air temperature is reduced. In areas with high
humidity, air conditioning can produce significant amounts of water. The
water removed from the air during air conditioning is called condensate.
CONDENSATE DISPOSAL LOCATION REQUIREMENTS
1. Do not discharge condensate on to a street, alley, or any other place that
would create a nuisance. Some jurisdictions, particularly in warm moist
areas, require that you discharge condensate away from the foundation.
Verify discharge location requirements with the local building official.
CONDENSATE DISCHARGE PIPE REQUIREMENTS
1. Use at least 3/4-inch diameter pipe for primary and auxiliary condensate
discharge pipes. Do not decrease pipe size between the collection and
discharge point.
2. Install horizontal pipe sections with a uniform slope in the direction of
the discharge point of at least 1/8 inch in 12 inches.
3. Use fittings, primers, cements, hangers, and other components that are
compatible with the pipe material. Install the pipe according to the
provisions in general codes.
4. Use pipe material and use a pipe size that will accommodate the
condensate temperature, pressure, and flow rate produced by the air
conditioning system.
5. You may use most water supply and drain pipes for condensate
discharge pipes. The most common condensate discharge pipes are
PVC, CPVC, and ABS.
6. Connect a condensate pump to the appliance it serves so that the
appliance will not operate if the pump will not operate. This applies to
pumps located in spaces such as attics and crawlspaces.
Condensate from air conditioner units should be directed to a drain through discharge pipes.
CONDENSATE AUXILIARY (BACKUP) SYSTEM REQUIREMENTS
1. Install an auxiliary condensate system when the air conditioner
evaporator coil is located where building damage may occur if the
primary condensate discharge system malfunctions. This usually applies
to evaporator coils installed in or above finished space. Many
jurisdictions require auxiliary condensate systems for all air
conditioning systems, unless all of the equipment is located outside the
building.
2. Install one of the following auxiliary condensate systems when an
auxiliary condensate system is required.(a) Condensate auxiliary drain
pan with discharge pipe. Install an auxiliary drain pan under the
evaporator coil. Use a pan that is at least 1 1/2 inches deep and at least
three inches larger than the evaporator coil in both length and width.
Construct the pan using either at least 0.0276-inch galvanized sheet
metal or at least a 0.0625-inch, nonmetallic pan. Slope the pan toward
the discharge pipe connection. Install the auxiliary discharge pipe using
the same materials and methods as the primary discharge pipe.
Terminate the auxiliary discharge pipe at a conspicuous point so that the
occupants can see that the primary condensate discharge system is not
functioning properly (a conspicuous point often means above a
window). (b) Water level cutoff switch. Install a water level cutoff
switch above the primary condensate discharge pipe where it connects
to the evaporator coil and below the evaporator coil interior condensate
pan overflow rim, or you may install the switch in the primary or
secondary discharge pipes. The switch location should allow the switch
to shut off the air conditioner before water overflows into the building.
Maintenance Tip: Keep Discharge Tubes Clear
Condensate discharge tubes that run from your air conditioner
evaporator have a strong tendency to become clogged with mildew,
algae, bacteria, and other unappealing nuisances. To prevent clogging,
flush the discharge tube every couple of months with a solution of 2
tablespoons household chlorine bleach dissolved into a cup of hot
water.
 HVAC Duct Installation

I mproper duct installation and duct damage are common problems. Ducts
that leak, have sharp bends, or sag reduce the volume of air that moves
through the duct and increase the friction between the air and the duct
walls. This causes the HVAC system to work harder and longer than
necessary, wasting energy and money.

Flexible HVAC Duct Installation

GENERAL INSTALLATION REQUIREMENTS
1. Install flexible ducts according to manufacturer’s installation
instructions. The installation instructions that follow are based on
material from the Air Diffusion Council. The full, original version may
be downloaded from their website (see Resources, page 233).
2. Use flexible ducts that are labeled at least every 36 inches with
information such as the manufacturer’s name and the R-value of the
duct insulation.
3. Do not expose flexible ducts to direct sunlight such as may occur under
roof vents. Direct sunlight can damage the duct outer cover.
4. Extend flexible duct to its full length. Do not leave excess duct material
in a duct run and do not compress the duct.
DUCT SUPPORT
1. Support flexible ducts using material at least 1 1/2 inches wide. You may
support flexible ducts on 1 1/2-inch-wide framing.
2. Support flexible ducts at not more than 4-foot intervals. You may use a
fitting or distribution plenum to provide initial flexible duct support.
3. Do not allow flexible duct to sag between supports more than 1/2 inch
per foot.
4. Support bends in long horizontal runs of flexible duct at not more than
one duct diameter on both sides of the bend.
5. Support bends in flexible duct that occur near the plenum connection.
Allow flexible ducts to run at least several inches beyond a plenum
 connection before making a bend.
6. Provide independent support for duct fittings and distribution plenums.
Support duct fittings at not more than one foot from the fitting.
7. Support vertical runs of flexible duct at more than six-foot intervals.
DUCT BENDS
1. Do not bend flexible ducts at sharp angles across obstructions such as
framing lumber and pipes. Such bends reduce the duct area and restrict
air flow.
2. Do not bend flexible ducts so that the bend radius at the centerline is
less than one duct diameter.
3. Avoid changing the shape of the duct. The area of a round duct is
greater than the area of the same duct compressed into an ellipse.

Flexible ductwork may not be bent at an overly tight angle. The radius of any curved bend should be no
less than the diameter of the duct.
Intervals between supports (hangers) for flexible HVAC ductwork can be no more than 4 ft. apart.

DUCT CONNECTIONS & SPLICES

1. Connect and splice ducts according to manufacturer’s instructions.
2. Connect flexible ducts to metal collars that are at least two inches long.
3. Splice two ducts together using a metal sleeve at least four inches long.
4. Use approved clamps and tape to secure nonmetallic flexible ducts to
metal collars and sleeves.
5. Use approved tape and mastic to seal duct collars, plenums, and other
fittings to ensure minimum air leakage.
DUCT INSULATION AND SEALING
1. Insulate HVAC supply ducts located in attics to at least R-8. Insulate all
other ducts to at least R-6.
2. You are not required to insulate ducts that are completely within
conditioned space.
3. Seal ducts, furnaces, air handler, filter boxes, junction boxes, and
fittings.
4. Verify duct and air handler sealing with a duct pressure test. You may
perform this test during rough-in or after final installation of the HVAC
system. Refer to the IRC for test requirements.
5. Do not use framing cavities such as stud walls and floor framing as
HVAC ducts or plenums.
 Prohibited Sources for Return & Outdoor Air
PROHIBITED SOURCES OF RETURN AIR
1. Do not locate a return air register in a closet, bathroom, toilet room,
kitchen, garage, mechanical room, furnace room or closet.
2. Do not locate a return register closer than 10 feet in any direction to an
open combustion chamber or to a draft hood-equipped appliance.
Common examples of these prohibited sources include a fireplace and a
water heater.
3. Do not take more return air from a room or a space than is supplied to
that room or space.
PROHIBITED SOURCES OF OUTDOOR AIR
1. Locate outdoor air intake openings connected to forced-air heating and
cooling systems at least 10 feet horizontally from contaminant sources
including gas equipment vents, chimneys, plumbing vents, or the
discharge outlet of an exhaust fan.
2. You may locate outdoor air intake openings closer than 10 feet
horizontally to a contaminant source if the outdoor air intake opening is
at least three feet below the contaminant source.
3. Do not locate outdoor air intake openings where objectionable odors,
fumes, or flammable vapors may be present.
4. Locate outdoor air intake openings at least 10 feet above a public
walkway or driveway.
5. Do not locate outdoor air intake openings at grade level next to a
sidewalk, street, alley, or driveway.
6. Provide an automatic or gravity-operated damper for air intake systems
that will close the damper when the system is not operating.
 Combustion Air for Fuel-burning Appliances

F uel-burning appliances, such as gas furnaces, boilers, and water

heaters, need air to support the fuel-burning (combustion) process.
These appliances also need air for cooling, ventilation of the appliance,
and for proper operation of the vent system that expels combustion
byproducts outside. The air required to support operation of fuel-burning
appliances is called combustion air.
Without adequate combustion air, incomplete fuel combustion may
occur. Byproducts of incomplete fuel combustion can include carbon
monoxide and soot that can damage the appliance and its vent. This is a
health and safety hazard. Appliances operating without adequate
combustion air can cost more to operate and maintain.
Do not confuse combustion air with the similar term “makeup air.”
Makeup air replaces air that is exhausted by clothes dryers, exhaust fans,
fireplaces, and similar devices.
APPLIANCES NEEDING COMBUSTION AIR
1. Provide combustion air for Category I gas appliances and for liquid
fuel-burning (oil) appliances according to the appliance manufacturer’s
recommendations and to code requirements. Category I gas appliances
include the gas furnaces and water heaters found in most homes.
2. Provide combustion air for direct vent and for Category II, III, and IV
gas appliances according to the appliance manufacturer’s instructions.
Do not apply combustion air requirements to these appliances. Category
II appliances do not currently exist. Category III and IV appliances
include medium and high efficiency gas appliances that operate with
positive vent pressure.
3. Do not apply combustion air requirements to fireplaces and fireplace
stoves. Refer to other general codes for fireplace combustion air
requirements.
Fuel for appliances (natural gas, propane, fuel oil) requires an adequate supply of fresh combustion air
for efficient burning, as well as a means of effective venting.

Combustion Air Depletion by Other Systems

Other appliances compete with gas and oil-burning appliances for
combustion air. This can create negative pressure that can interfere with
operation of the gas and oil-burning appliances and their vents. General
codes do not define how to account for air exhausted by other
appliances. Gas and oil-burning appliances located in or near rooms
containing clothes dryers, exhaust fans, and fireplaces require special
attention to ensure that combustion air and venting needs are satisfied.
Account for air exhausted by appliances (such as clothes dryers,
bathroom and kitchen exhaust fans, fireplaces) and account for
combustion air used by other fuel-burning appliances when determining
combustion air requirements. This is important when drawing all
combustion air from inside the home

COMBUSTION AIR DUCT MATERIALS & CONSTRUCTION

1. Use galvanized steel to construct combustion air ducts. Refer to other
general codes for duct material specifications.
2. You may use unobstructed stud and joist spaces as combustion air ducts
if only one required fireblock is removed.
3. Terminate combustion air ducts in unobstructed space that allows free
air movement.
4. Do not open combustion air ducts into more than one room or
enclosure.
5. Do not use the same combustion air duct for both the upper and lower
duct openings.
6. Do not install a screen on any combustion air duct opening in the attic.
7. Do not slope horizontal combustion air ducts downward toward the
source of combustion air. Make the duct level or slope it toward the
appliance.
8. Do not use the space in a masonry, metal, or factory-built chimney that
surrounds a chimney liner, gas vent, plastic piping, or other devices as a
combustion air duct.
9. Locate the lowest point of an exterior combustion air opening at least 12
inches above exterior grade.
Airtight Construction
Homes built using airtight construction techniques do not allow enough
air infiltration into the home to safely support fuel combustion. The
lack of adequate combustion air can cause many problems, including
the production of carbon monoxide and soot that can be a health hazard
and can damage appliances and vents. Do not draw combustion air
from inside the home if it is built using airtight construction techniques.
You’ll need to bring it in from outdoors. Even when drawing
combustion air from inside is allowed, it is not considered best practice.
You should consider direct-vented appliances that draw combustion air
from outdoors when replacing existing appliances.
Although most homes built today use some energy-efficient
construction techniques, few are so tight that they are considered
“airtight” and therefore require supplementary combustion air. To be
considered airtight, a home must have measured air changes that are
less than 0.4 per hour. You’ll need to contact a qualified building
energy analyst to determine whether your house meets this standard,
but here are some hints:

• If your home is airtight, the thermal envelope walls have a continuous

water vapor retarder with a rating of one perm or less and any
openings in the vapor retarder are sealed.
• Doors and operable windows meet air leakage requirements of the
International Energy Conservation Code.
• Gaps and spaces are sealed—including gaps and spaces between
windows and doors and the surrounding framing, between sole plates
and floors, between wall and ceiling joints, between wall panels, and
at wall penetrations for utilities such as plumbing, electrical, and gas.

Older homes rarely satisfy these requirements. Newer homes may

satisfy the first two requirements, but it is still rare for most builders to
seal all framing and utility penetration gaps as intended by the third
requirement. Many homes may obtain combustion air from inside the
home, but you should verify with the builder if the home was built
using airtight construction techniques.
Windows that meet air leakage requirements should come with a rating label from a sanctioned
source. Among these sources are the International Energy Conservation Code and the National

Fenestration Rating Council, which employs the California Energy Commission standards for air

infiltration.
 Combustion Air from Within a Room

Combustion air may be drawn from the room where the appliance is located if the room is large
enough. Consult with an engineer or inspector to help you determine if the room meets the minimum

size requirement for your appliance.

 Combustion Air Using One Permanent Opening to Outdoors

Import combustion air by creating one permanent opening to the outdoors. To do this, draw air in from
an opening in an exterior wall or from an opening in the roof.
 Vents for Fuel-burning Appliances

A vent is generally a vertical component, such as a metal pipe, that

conducts combustion products from a gas or oil-burning appliance to
the outdoors. A vent for a single appliance begins at the fitting where
the vent connector, if any, connects to the vent. A common vent for multiple
appliances begins at the highest connector fitting. If a vent is located
directly over the appliance draft hood or flue collar, or if the vent connects
directly to the appliance, then the vent begins at the appliance and there is
no vent connector.
A vent connector is a pipe that connects an appliance to its vent or flue.
A vent connector is required if the appliance is not located directly under its
vent. A vent connector for a Category I gas appliance may be a listed vent
material, such as a Type B vent, a listed flexible vent connector, or a field
constructed single-wall metal pipe made of at least 28-gauge galvanized
steel. While a vent connector is part of the venting system, it is not the vent
itself.
Common types of vents and vent connectors include the Type B vent
used with most gas appliances, Type L vents used with oil-burning
appliances, flexible connectors used with gas appliances, and single-wall
connectors that may be used with either gas or oil-burning appliances.

Vents and vent connectors often look the same, but they have different installation requirements.
Vent connectors and fittings include: (A) Single wall-vent connector; (B) Type B elbow; (C) Type B
vent; (D) Type L vent; (E, F) vent caps.

VENT CLEARANCE TO COMBUSTIBLE MATERIALS

1. Provide the distance between a vent or a vent connector and
combustible materials based on the vent or vent connector
manufacturer’s installation instructions and based on the appliance
manufacturer’s installation instructions. Table 27 contains typical
clearance distances for common types of vents and vent connectors.
Confirm the distances in Table 27 with the appliance manufacturer’s
instructions and with the vent manufacturer’s instructions.
VENT CLEARANCE TO ROOF & OBSTRUCTIONS
1. Terminate a Type L vent at least two feet above the roof and at least two
feet above any part of the home within 10 feet of the vent. Measure
termination height above the roof from the highest point where the vent
penetrates the roof to the bottom of the vent cap.
2. Terminate a masonry chimney at least three feet above the roof and at
least two feet above any part of the building within 10 feet of the
 chimney. Measure termination height above the roof from the highest
point where the chimney penetrates the roof to where the flue exits the
chimney. This provision also applies to many factory-built chimneys.
Confirm factory-built chimney termination height using the
manufacturer’s installation instructions.
3. Use Table 28 to determine the minimum height above the roof of a Type
B gas vent not more than 12 inches in diameter. Measure termination
height above the roof from the highest point where the vent penetrates
the roof to the bottom of the listed cap. For thick roof-covering
materials such as tile, measure from the tile to the bottom of the listed
cap.
4. Do not use Table 28 if a Type B vent is closer than eight feet to a
vertical side wall, gable end, or similar vertical obstruction. Terminate
these vents at least two feet higher than the highest point where the vent
penetrates the roof and at least two feet higher than any part of the roof
or building within 10 feet horizontally.
5. Terminate all vents and chimneys at least 10 feet horizontally from
operable windows unless the vent is at least three feet above the
window.
6. Do not install a vent terminal where a door can swing within 12 inches
horizontally from the vent terminal. This will apply mostly to direct
vent terminals.
7. Do not install a decorative shroud or surround at a vent termination
unless the shroud or surround is listed for use with the specific venting
system and unless the shroud or surround is installed according to
manufacturer’s instructions. This prevents an unlisted shroud from
interfering with the drafting characteristics of the vent system.
Avoid fires by maintaining distance between vents and combustible materials.
 Table 27: Typical Clearance Distances to
Combustible Materials for Common Types of
Vents & Vent Connectors
VENT OR CONNECTOR TYPE Type B vent and vent connector
APPLICATION Category I gas appliance
TYPICAL CLEARANCE DISTANCE 1"

VENT OR CONNECTOR TYPE Type L vent and vent connector

APPLICATION Oil-burning and Category I gas appliance
TYPICAL CLEARANCE DISTANCE 3"

VENT OR CONNECTOR TYPE Single-wall vent and vent connector

APPLICATION Category I gas appliance
TYPICAL CLEARANCE DISTANCE 6"

VENT OR CONNECTOR TYPE Single-wall vent and vent connector

APPLICATION Oil-burning appliance listed for Type L vent
TYPICAL CLEARANCE DISTANCE 9"

JOINTS BETWEEN VENTS & VENT CONNECTOR SECTIONS

1. Secure joints between the vent or vent connector and the flue collar or
draft hood, vent or vent connector sections, and vent connector and the
vent using (a) sheet metal screws (usually three); (b) listed, interlocking
vent material (such as Type B vent) connected according to the vent
manufacturer’s instructions; or (c) other approved means.
SLOPE OF VENTS & VENT CONNECTORS
1. Slope vents and vent connectors up toward the roof termination at least
1/4 inch per foot. Do not allow any dips or sags in the vent or vent
connector.
APPLIANCES NOT REQUIRING A VENT
1. You are not required to vent the following gas appliances: (a) ranges
and other domestic cooking appliances listed and labeled for optional
venting, (b) domestic (Type 1) clothes dryers, (c) portable, countertop,
and similar small kitchen and laundry appliances, (d) gas-fueled
refrigerators, (e) listed, unvented room heaters, and (f) listed, unvented
decorative gas appliances (unvented gas fireplaces).
2. Verify venting requirements using manufacturer’s instructions. Some
manufacturers of appliances such as unvented gas fireplaces
recommend limiting the duration of use and/or opening a window while
the appliance is operating.

A gas vent roof terminator cap protects the vent from moisture and pests. These caps are designed so
they do not impede or restrict air flow.
 Table 28: Type B Gas Vent Height Above Roof
ROOF PITCH MIN. VENT HEIGHT
Flat to 6/12 12"
Over 6/12 to 7/12 15"
Over 7/12 to 8/12 18"
Over 8/12 to 9/12 24"
Over 9/12 to 10/12 30"
Over 10/12 to 11/12 39"
Over 11/12 to 12/12 48"
Over 12/12 to 14/12 60"
Over 14/12 to 16/12 72"
Over 16/12 to 18/12 84"
Over 18/12 to 20/12 90"

Safety Tip
Always have combustion vent installations diagnosed and inspected by
a qualified professional.
Plumbing System

P lumbing projects are popular among do-it-yourselfers, so naturally

there’s a strong demand for information on home plumbing subjects to
make sure home projects are accomplished correctly. Water supply
pipes must be properly sized, supported, and connected to avoid water leaks
and to avoid low water flow at fixtures.
Wastewater drain pipes must be properly installed to avoid water leaks
and sewage backups. Traps and vents must be correctly hooked up in drain
lines.
 Finally, in this chapter you’ll learn basic requirements for installing
water supply pipes, water drain and vent pipes, as well as installing
common plumbing fixtures such as water heaters, faucets, tubs and
showers.

In this chapter:
• The Home Plumbing System
• Water Supply Piping
• Drain, Waste & Vent Piping (DWV)
• Plumbing Vents
• Plumbing Traps
• Plumbing Appliances & Fixtures
 Definitions of Plumbing Terms
Air admittance valve: An air admittance valve is a one-way valve
attached to a plumbing vent pipe. It is used when extending a vent to
the roof or to another vent is impractical or not desirable. The valve
allows air into the vent system when there is negative pressure in the
vent pipe and closes to limit the flow of sewer gas into the home.

A relatively new device, the air admittance valve (AAV) has been endorsed as a substitute for
individual exterior vent termination by most codes.

Branch drain: A branch drain is a drainage pipe that takes soil and
waste from fixture drains to a stack or to the building drain.

Branch vent: A branch vent connects other vents, usually individual

and common vents, to a vent stack or stack vent.

Braze (Brazing): A method of joining metal pipe (such as copper and

brass) at temperatures exceeding 1,000 degrees Fahrenheit. Brazing is
sometimes called “silver soldering,” because it uses a silver alloy as the
brazing material. Brazed joints are stronger than soldered joints.

Building drain: The building drain is usually the lowest horizontal

drainpipe in the building and collects material from branches and
stacks. It extends to 30" beyond the foundation, where it connects with
the building sewer. A building with fixtures below the building drain
(such as in a basement) has a building sub-drain. Material in a sub-
drain must be pumped up to the building drain.

Building sewer: Building sewer usually refers to the pipes beginning at

the building drain and ending at the public sewer or septic tank.

Drainpipe: Drainpipe usually refers to the pipes inside the building

that take soil and waste to the building sewer pipe.

Fittings: Devices that connect parts of the plumbing system together

and allow pipes to change direction. Drainage fittings include wyes,
sweeps, bends, tees, and couplings. Water supply fittings include
elbows, tees, couplings, and valves.

Fixture: A device that connects to water supply pipes and connects to

plumbing waste pipes. Fixtures include toilets (water closets), bathroom
sinks (lavatories), kitchen and laundry sinks, bathtubs, and showers.
The general term “fitting” is for any device from any material that is used to connect plumbing
pipes. A brass compression fitting for copper supply pipe is shown here.

Fixture drain: The horizontal pipe between a trap outlet and the
fitting, connecting it to another drain pipe. A fixture drain is sometimes
called a “trap arm.” Any pipe after the fixture drain fitting is not part of
the fixture drain.
The fixture drain, or trap arm, is a piece of drain tubing that connects a fixture and its drain line
to the drain stub-out in the wall or floor.

Hub: An enlarged opening molded on the end of a pipe or a fitting into

which a section of pipe (the spigot) is inserted. In older plumbing, cast-
iron hubs and spigots were sealed with oakum or hemp and lead. In
modern plumbing, you may seal cast-iron hubs and spigots with an
elastomeric O-ring gasket, or you may remove the hub and convert the
pipe into a hubless pipe. Hubless pipe joints are often sealed by an
elastomeric sleeve held in place by stainless steel rings (also called a
banded coupling).
The hub is the enlarged fitting, usually in cast-iron drain pipe. The spigot is the end of the pipe
that fits into the hub.

Laundry tray: A sink, usually located in a laundry area, used for

various laundry-related and other purposes. It is also known as a
laundry sink or a deep sink. You may discharge a clothes washing
machine into a laundry tray instead of a standpipe.

An offset in a vertical drainpipe (drain stack) is any change in direction

in the pipe from vertical to an angle other than vertical, then back to
vertical. Offsets are most often used to run a stack around an
obstruction (such as a wall or beam) that cannot be drilled or notched.
An offset that is not more than 45° from vertical is defined to be
vertical.

Receptor (indirect waste): The term receptor refers to a device such as

a floor sink or a floor drain. Indirect waste receptors have a source of
water that is not directly and permanently connected to the receptor.
Example: a floor drain could receive condensate water from an air
conditioning system. The condensate drain is not directly and
permanently connected to the floor drain.
An indirect waste receptor collects drain water from a source and introduces it to the drain
system, but it is not connected directly to the wastewater source. Floor drains (above) are

common indirect receptors.

Saddle fitting: A saddle fitting is a connection between pipes where a

new pipe is attached to an existing pipe by puncturing the existing pipe
and clamping the new pipe to the existing pipe. Saddle fittings are
sometimes used to tap existing water supply pipes for low volume
applications such as refrigerator ice-makers and reverse osmosis water
treatment systems. Saddle fittings are prohibited in drainage pipes, but
are often found in low volume applications such as reverse osmosis
water treatment system discharge tubing connection to trap arms.
Saddle fittings are prohibited on drainage pipes, but they are sometimes allowed in low volume
applications such as this water filter discharge tube. Ask your building department if saddle

fittings are allowed in your area.

Slip joint: A hand-tightened fitting at the inlet and outlet side of traps.
Slip joints allow easy removal of the trap for cleaning. Slip joints must
be accessible.
Install slip joints only on accessible traps.

Soil: Material in the plumbing drainage system that contains urine or

fecal material.

Solder (Soldering): A method of joining metal pipe (such as copper

and brass) at temperatures that do not exceed 800° F. Soldering usually
uses a tin alloy as the joining material. Soldered joints are weaker than
brazed joints.
Soldering is a technique, often called “sweating,” that’s used to join copper and brass tubing and
fittings. It is less strong than brazing, but code approved for virtually all residential plumbing

joints.

Stack: A stack is a vertical plumbing drain or waste pipe that extends

one or more stories. A stack collects waste material from horizontal
drainage pipes and conducts it to the building drain or other horizontal
drain.

Stack vent: A dry vent that connects to a soil or waste stack above the
highest horizontal drainage connection and may extend through the
roof to the outdoors or may terminate with a stack-type air admittance
valve.

Standpipe: A vertical pipe used as an indirect waste receptor.

Standpipes are most often used as the receptor for a clothes washing
machine.
A standpipe is an open pipe mounted vertically and leading into a branch drain system.
Standpipes often are installed as receptors for washing machine discharge tubes.

Stop-and-waste valve: A water supply valve with an opening that

allows draining of the non-pressure side. These valves are most
common in cold climates and are used to protect exterior water fixtures
from freeze damage.

Tailpiece: A tailpiece is a short piece of vertical pipe that runs from the
plumbing fixture waste outlet (drain) to the inlet side of the fixture’s
trap.

Trap: A trap is a fitting, usually located either inside or under fixtures,

that prevents sewer gases from escaping from the plumbing waste
pipes. Traps maintain a water seal (trap seal) extending from the trap’s
crown weir to its dip. Vents help protect the water seal from siphoning.
Traps are the S- or P-shaped pipes in a fixture drain. Their purpose is to prevent sewer gas from
coming up through the drain opening.

Vent: Pipe or mechanical device that allows air into the plumbing
drainpipes to equalize air pressure in the pipes. Plumbing vents help
avoid draining (siphoning) traps and help wastewater flow freely
through the system. Plumbing vents usually terminate on the roof,
although mechanical vents (called air admittance valves) are allowed in
some circumstances.

Vent stack: Dry vent that connects at or near the connection of a soil or
waste stack and a horizontal drain. A vent stack runs vertically and
often runs parallel to the soil or waste stack that it vents.

Yard hydrant (freeze proof): A freeze proof yard hydrant is an

outdoor water supply outlet that has a valve and outlet above ground
and a drain opening below the frost level. When the valve is opened,
water flows. When the valve is closed, the water supply to the hydrant
is shut off below the frost level and a drain hole is opened that allows
the water in the yard hydrant pipe to drain into a gravel bed. This drains
the yard hydrant and its riser so that the hydrant will not freeze.

Waste: Liquid material in the plumbing drainage system that does not
contain urine or fecal material. Waste is sometimes referred to as gray
water. Waste comes from all plumbing fixtures except toilets and
urinals.
The Home Plumbing System
 Water Supply Piping

W ater supply pipes carry hot and cold water throughout a house. In
homes built before 1960, the original supply pipes were usually
made of galvanized iron. Newer homes have supply pipes made of
copper. In most areas of the country, supply pipes made of rigid plastic or
PEX are accepted by local plumbing codes.
Water supply pipes are made to withstand the high pressures of the water
supply system. They have small diameters, usually 1/2 inch to one inch, and
are joined with strong, watertight fittings. The hot and cold pipes run in
tandem to most parts of the house. Usually, the supply pipes run inside wall
cavities or are strapped to the undersides of floor joists. They are sometimes
run in the attic in warm climates.
Hot and cold water supply pipes are connected to most fixtures and
appliances. Fixtures include sinks, tubs, and showers. Some fixtures, such
as toilets and hose bibbs, are supplied only by cold water. Appliances
include dishwashers and clothes washers. A refrigerator icemaker uses only
cold water. Tradition and codes say that hot water supply pipes and faucet
handles are found on the left-hand side of a fixture, with cold water on the
right.
Because it is pressurized, the water supply system is prone to leaks. This
is especially true of galvanized iron pipe, which has limited resistance to
corrosion.
 Water Pressure vs. Water Flow
Water flow and water pressure are often confused. Water flow is the amount
of water you can get from a full water pipe. Water pressure is the amount of
force that the water exerts on the walls of a full water pipe. Once a pipe is
full of water, a water pressure increase will not increase the water flow in
the pipe. In fact, a water pressure increase beyond a certain amount will
cause the pipe to burst. The ideal water pressure is between 40 and 60
pounds per square inch (psi).
 Water flow is primarily a function of the size, type, and installation of
water supply pipes and supply fixtures. You can achieve more flow in a
larger pipe than you can in a smaller pipe. Different pipe materials, such as
PEX and copper, have different flow rates for the same size pipe. Many
current water supply fixtures have flow restriction devices that limit the
water flow rate to conserve water.
Water pressure is primarily a function of the force behind the water as it
enters the piping system. A system with too little water pressure may not
provide sufficient water flow when multiple supply fixtures are being used.
Too much water pressure, exceeding 80 psi, can cause premature failure of
water supply pipes and fixtures. A pressure regulator is recommended to
reduce excessive water pressure.

Install a pressure-reducing valve when the water pressure exceeds 80 psi.

MINIMUM & MAXIMUM WATER PRESSURE

1. Provide each dwelling with at least 40 psi of static water pressure. The
minimum pressure applies to both public and private (well supplied)
water supplies. Measure the water pressure as close as possible to where
the water supply enters the building.
 2. Do not exceed 80 psi static water pressure.
3. Install an approved pressure-reducing valve at the main water supply
connection to the dwelling if the static pressure exceeds the maximum.
Measure the water pressure to the point where the water supply enters
the building as closely as possible.
MINIMUM FLOW RATE AT FIXTURES
1. Provide at least the water flow rate in Table 29 for the indicated fixtures.
Water flow rate is measured in gallons per minute. Water flow rate
means the water flow from the pipe without the fixture attached. The
water flow rate in the table does not mean that the water flow from the
fixture must be at least the amount in the table. Some fixtures contain
required flow restrictors that will limit the actual water flow from the
fixture to less than the water flow rate in the table. Example: the
minimum water flow rate for a shower is three gallons per minute but
the maximum flow-restricted rate from the showerhead is 2.5 gallons
per minute.
MAXIMUM FLOW RATE AT FIXTURES
1. Use fixtures that allow a water flow rate that is not more than the flow
rate in Table 30. Water flow rate is measured in gallons per minute. If
either the water supply pressure to the building or the water pressure
loss in the pipes reduces the water pressure at the fixture to less than the
design pressure, the flow rate at a flow-restricted fixture may be less
than the maximum.
Table 29: Min. Water Flow Rate at Fixture
Supply Pipe
FIXTURE MINIMUM FLOW RATE (GPM)
Bathtub 4
Bidet 2
Dishwasher 2.75
Laundry tub 4
Lavatory 0.8
Shower 2.5
Hose bibb 5
Sink 1.75
 Table 30: Max. Water Flow Rate at Fixture
FIXTURE MAXIMUM WATER FLOW RATE
AT DESIGN PRESSURE
Lavatory 2.2 gpm at 60 psi
Shower head 2.5 gpm at 80 psi
Sink 2.2 gpm at 60 psi

COMMON WATER DISTRIBUTION PIPES

1. Install water service pipe that has a working pressure rating of at least
160 psi at 73 degrees Farenheit, or the highest available pressure,
whichever is greater.
2. Common water distribution pipe materials used in modern residential
construction include those in Table 31.
3. You may use other approved materials if allowed by local codes.
Copper, CPVC, and PEX are the most common water distribution pipes.
 Table 31: Common Water Distribution Pipe
Materials
COMMON WATER DISTRIBUTION PIPE APPROVED FOR USE UNDER
MATERIALS CONCRETE SLABS
CPVC plastic pipe yes
Copper and copper alloy pipe and tubing Copper tubing, minimum Type M
PEX-AL-PEX pipe yes
PEX tubing yes
PE-AL-PE pipe yes

Water supply pipes include: copper, CPVC, and PEX (blue for cold, red for hot).
Fittings for water supply lines include: (A) PVC and CPVC tee, elbow and coupling; (B) copper tees and
elbows; (C) brass compression fittings; (D) brass fittings, with barbs.

WATER DISTRIBUTION PIPE JOINTS AND CONNECTIONS

1. Use fittings made from the same material as the pipe when connecting
pipes made from the same material. Example: use copper fittings to
connect copper pipe and CPVC fittings to connect CPVC pipe. Use
solder or brazing to connect copper pipes. Use PVC cement and primer
to connect CPVC pipes.
2. You may use flared fittings to make connections between soft copper
water tubing and valves and fixtures. Use approved fittings and a flaring
tool to form and connect these joints.
3. Use fittings and crimping tools approved by the tubing manufacturer
when connecting PEX and other plastic water supply materials to each
other. Most homeowners should not attempt to install PEX and similar
materials using these fittings and tools because this requires training and
experience. Mechanical fittings are recommended for homeowners.
 4. You may use mechanical fittings to connect pipes made from the same
materials and pipes made from different materials. Install the fittings
according to manufacturer’s instructions.
FLEXIBLE WATER CONNECTORS
1. Use flexible water connectors to connect water supply pipes to
appliances and fixtures. Examples of proper uses of flexible water
connectors: connecting water supply pipes and a water heater,
connecting valves and a clothes washing machine or a dishwashing
machine, connecting a refrigerator icemaker and a valve, and
connecting a valve and a faucet.
2. Use a flexible water connector that is approved for the application.
Example: do not use a connector intended for a clothes washing
machine to connect a water heater to the hot water supply pipe.
3. Do not run flexible water connectors through walls, ceilings, and floors
and in concealed spaces.
4. Do not use flexible water connectors as a substitute for permanent water
supply pipes.
Using fittings made from the same material as the pipe is the least expensive way to connect pipes.
Using mechanical fittings is a good (but more expensive) way for homeowners to connect different
pipe types together and to connect pipes of the same type together.
Use flexible water connectors according to manufacturer’s instructions. Avoid using plastic tubing. This
material can burst and cause significant water damage.
Table 32: Plumbing Pipe Support, Water Supply
& DWV Pipes
PIPE MATERIAL ABS pipe
MAXIMUM HORIZONTAL SPACING 48"
MAXIMUM VERTICAL SPACING 120"
MID STORY GUIDE REQ’D FOR PIPE DIA. ≤ 2" yes

PIPE MATERIAL Cast-iron pipe

MAXIMUM HORIZONTAL SPACING 60"*
MAXIMUM VERTICAL SPACING 180"
MID STORY GUIDE REQ’D FOR PIPE DIA. ≤ 2" no

PIPE MATERIAL Copper tubing (≤ 1 1/4" dia.)

MAXIMUM HORIZONTAL SPACING 72"
MAXIMUM VERTICAL SPACING 120"
MID STORY GUIDE REQ’D FOR PIPE DIA. ≤ 2" no

PIPE MATERIAL Copper tubing (≥ 1 1/2" dia.)

MAXIMUM HORIZONTAL SPACING 120"
MAXIMUM VERTICAL SPACING 120"
MID STORY GUIDE REQ’D FOR PIPE DIA. ≤ 2" no

PIPE MATERIAL CPVC pipe or tubing (≤ 1" dia.)

MAXIMUM HORIZONTAL SPACING 36"
MAXIMUM VERTICAL SPACING 120"
MID STORY GUIDE REQ’D FOR PIPE DIA. ≤ 2" yes

CPVC pipe or tubing (≥ 1 1/4"

PIPE MATERIAL dia.)
MAXIMUM HORIZONTAL SPACING 48"
MAXIMUM VERTICAL SPACING 120"
MID STORY GUIDE REQ’D FOR PIPE DIA. ≤ 2" yes

PIPE MATERIAL Polybutylene (PB) pipe or

tubing
 MAXIMUM HORIZONTAL SPACING 32"
MAXIMUM VERTICAL SPACING 48"
MID STORY GUIDE REQ’D FOR PIPE DIA. ≤ 2" no

PIPE MATERIAL PEX

MAXIMUM HORIZONTAL SPACING 32"
MAXIMUM VERTICAL SPACING 120"
MID STORY GUIDE REQ’D FOR PIPE DIA. ≤ 2" yes

PIPE MATERIAL PEX-AL-PEX and PE-AL-PE

MAXIMUM HORIZONTAL SPACING 32"
MAXIMUM VERTICAL SPACING 48"
MID STORY GUIDE REQ’D FOR PIPE DIA. ≤ 2" yes

PIPE MATERIAL PVC pipe

MAXIMUM HORIZONTAL SPACING 48"
MAXIMUM VERTICAL SPACING 120"
MID STORY GUIDE REQ’D FOR PIPE DIA. ≤ 2" yes

PIPE MATERIAL Steel pipe

MAXIMUM HORIZONTAL SPACING 144"
MAXIMUM VERTICAL SPACING 180"
MID STORY GUIDE REQ’D FOR PIPE DIA. ≤ 2" no
* You may increase cast-iron pipe horizontal spacing to 120" when using 10 ft. pipe lengths.

PIPE SUPPORT
1. Support pipes so they will maintain alignment and will not sag.
2. Support and install pipes so they can move with the normal expansion
and contraction of the piping system without scraping or rubbing
against supports or framing materials.
3. Use pipe supports that will carry the weight of the pipe and that are
sufficiently wide to prevent crimping and distortion of the pipe.
4. Use pipe supports that will not cause corrosion or galvanic reaction
between the pipe and the support. Example: do not use steel supports
with copper pipe or copper supports with cast-iron pipe.
 5. Provide rigid sway bracing at changes in pipe direction more than 45
degrees for pipe sizes at least 4 inches in diameter.
6. Provide horizontal and vertical support for pipes according to Table 33
(see page 136).

Support hangers and clamps for: CPVC and PVC (A), Copper (B), PEX (C).
Support copper tubing with compatible hangers.

Support for PEX tubing is particularly important near manifolds and fittings.
Provide vertical support for pipes running parallel to wall studs. Install supports according to Table 32.

Protect pipes 1 1/2" from the edges of studs and joists.

PROTECTING PIPES FROM PUNCTURE & CORROSION
1. Protect plumbing pipes (other than cast iron or galvanized steel) with
shield plates, if the pipe is run through holes that are closer than 1 1/4
inches from the edge of studs, joists, rafters, or similar framing
members. Extend the shield plate at least two inches below top plates
and at least two inches above bottom plates.
2. Use shield plates at least 0.062 (1/16)-inch thick.
3. Apply these rules to pipes running through holes and notches in framing
materials. While not required by most general codes, it is a best practice
to protect pipes (other than cast iron or galvanized steel) that are closer
than 1 1/2 inches from the edge of framing materials. The most common
example of such pipes is a pipe installed parallel to the edge of a stud or
joist.
4. Protect copper plumbing pipe from corrosion where it passes through
masonry or concrete. You may use pipe wrapping material designed for
this purpose or you may enclose the pipe in a sleeve.
5. Protect gas pipes with shield plates if the pipe is closer than 1 1/2 inches
from the edge of studs, joists, rafters, or similar framing members.
Extend the shield plate at least 4 inches below top plates and at least 4
inches above bottom plates.
PROTECTING PIPES FROM FREEZING
1. Do not install water supply and waste pipes: outside of a building, in
exterior building walls, in attics and crawl spaces, or in any other place
subject to freezing temperatures unless the pipes are protected by
insulation or heat or both.
2. Install water service pipe at least 12 inches deep or at least six inches
below the frost line.
3. Verify minimum water service and building sewer pipe depth with the
local building official.
4. Apply these requirements only to areas with a winter design
temperature of 32 degrees Farenheit or less.
FIXTURE CUTOFF VALVE (ANGLE STOP)
1. Provide each plumbing fixture, except for bathtubs and showers, with
an accessible cutoff valve on the hot and cold water supply pipes. These
valves are sometimes called “angle stop valves.” You may install cutoff
valves at bathtubs and shower, but these valves are not required.
VALVES & OUTLETS INSTALLED BELOW GROUND
1. Do not install water supply outlets and stop-and-waste valves below
ground. Example: do not install a hose bibb below ground.
2. You may install a freeze-proof yard hydrant below ground if the water
supply to the hydrant is protected with a backflow preventer and the
yard hydrant is permanently labeled as a “non-potable water source.”
HOSE BIBB CUTOFF VALVE
1. Provide hose bibbs that are subject to freezing with a stop-and-waste
valve inside the building. This includes frost-proof hose bibbs.
2. You need not install a stop-and-waste valve on a frost-proof hose bibb if
the stem extends into an open heated or semi-conditioned area of the
building.

Hose bibbs that are subject to freezing require a stop-and-waste valve inside the building.
 Drain, Waste & Vent Piping (DWV)

D rainpipes use gravity to carry wastewater away from fixtures,

appliances, and other drains. This wastewater is carried out of the
house to a municipal sewer system or septic tank.
Drainpipes are usually plastic or cast iron. In some older homes,
drainpipes may be made of copper, galvanized steel, or lead. Because they
are not part of the supply system, lead drainpipes pose no health hazard.
However, lead pipes are no longer manufactured for home plumbing
systems.
Drainpipes have diameters ranging from 1 1/4 inches to four inches.
These large diameters allow waste to pass through easily.
Traps are an important part of the drain system. These curved sections of
drainpipe hold standing water, and they are usually found near any drain
opening. The standing water of a trap prevents sewer gases from backing up
into the home. Each time a drain is used, the standing trap water is flushed
away and is replaced by new water.
In order to work properly, the drain system requires air. Air protects trap
from being drained. To allow air into the drain system, drainpipes are
connected to vent pipes. All drain systems must include vents, and the
entire system is called the drain-waste-vent (DWV) system. One or more
vents, located on the roof, provide the air needed for the DWV system to
work.
Use vent tee fittings only in vent pipes, not in drain pipes that carry wastewater. Drain pipes must
maintain a minimum 2% slope that is not supported by a tee with perpendicular pipe outlets.
Common sewer pipe materials: PVC (A) or ABS (B) are allowed for use in DWV systems. Cast iron is also
allowed but is rarely used in residential construction.

DRAIN & SEWER PIPE GENERAL REQUIREMENTS

1. Install fittings that have a smooth interior surface and are compatible
with the pipe to which they are attached. Example: do not use ABS
fittings with PVC pipe.
 2. Do not use fittings that contain ledges, shoulders, or reductions that may
retard or obstruct drainage flow.
3. Install fittings that maintain a two percent slope and are approved for
use where installed. Example: do not use a vent tee in a drainage pipe
where water flows.
4. Do not use threaded connections in pipes where the threads run on the
inside of the pipe and could retard or obstruct drainage flow.
5. Do not drill, tap, burn, or weld drainage, sewer, and vent pipes.
Example: do not drill into a vent pipe to insert the discharge hose from a
water softener.
6. Do not use the following types of joints and connections: cement or
concrete, mastic or hot-pour bituminous, fittings not approved for the
specific type of pipe or installation, joints between different pipe
diameters made with elastomeric rolling O-rings, solvent-cement joints
between different types of plastic pipe, and saddle fittings.
COMMON DWV PIPE MATERIAL
1. You may use any of the common drainage and sewer pipe materials
listed in Table 33. You may use other materials listed if approved by
your local codes.
2. Install galvanized steel drainage pipe at least six inches above the
ground.
 Table 33: Common Drainage and Sewer Pipe
Materials
COMMON DRAINAGE & SEWER PIPE Cast-iron soil pipe
MATERIALS
USED FOR DRAINAGE yes
USED FOR SEWER yes

COMMON DRAINAGE & SEWER PIPE ABS-DWV pipe

MATERIALS
USED FOR DRAINAGE yes
USED FOR SEWER yes

COMMON DRAINAGE & SEWER PIPE PVC plastic pipe

MATERIALS
USED FOR DRAINAGE yes
USED FOR SEWER yes

COMMON DRAINAGE & SEWER PIPE Steel pipe (black or galvanized)

MATERIALS
USED FOR DRAINAGE yes
USED FOR SEWER no

WATER CLOSET CONNECTION BETWEEN CLOSET FLANGE & PIPE

1. You may use a three-inch quarter bend to connect to a closet flange if
you install a four-inch-by-three-inch flange to receive the closet fixture
horn.
2. You may use a four-inch-by-three-inch reducing closet bend to connect
to the closet flange.
TAILPIECES
1. Provide sinks, dishwashers, laundry tubs, and similar fixtures with
tailpieces and traps at least 1 1/2 inches in diameter.
2. Provide vanity sinks, bidets, and similar fixtures with tailpieces and
traps at least 1 1/4 inches.
SLIP JOINTS
1. Use slip joints only on a trap inlet, outlet, and within the trap seal.
2. Provide access to slip joints with access of at least 12 by 12 inches.

4 × 3 reducing closet bend (horn).

Chromed P-trap with slip joints on lavatory sink.
Drain tailpieces must match the diameter of the other pipes in the drain kit: 1 1/4 or 1 1/2" depending
on the type of fixture being drained.
VIOLATION! Flexible, ribbed material is not approved in a DWV system.
DWV Fitting Descriptions
Bend (Elbow): A bend is a drainage fitting used to change the direction
of flow. A bend is often called an elbow. Bends are available as a single
fitting with two openings and some are available as a double fitting
with three or more openings. Some bends have inlets in addition to the
openings. Use vent bends only in the dry vent sections of vent pipes.
Quarter bends are sometimes called short sweeps in plastic pipes. See
the definition of sweep. Quarter bends with a longer turn radius are
sometimes called long turn quarter bends or long sweeps. Bends are
made with the angles shown in Table 34.

Closet bend: A fitting used to connect a closet flange (a part of your

toilet drain system) to other plumbing pipes. Closet bends often reduce
the pipe size from the four inches of the closet flange to three inches.

Closet flange: The fitting upon which a toilet (water closet) sits. Many
different closet flanges are available to accommodate different fitting
and pipe configurations. One type of closet flange allows you to offset
the closet flange around a floor joist.

Coupling: A fitting used to join two lengths of pipe in a straight line. It

has two female openings, one on each end.

Inlet: An additional opening in a fitting. A low-heel-inlet is located in a

straight line with one opening of the fitting. A high-heel-inlet is located
above the curved portion of the fitting. A side-inlet occurs on one side
of the fitting.

Sanitary tee. A sanitary tee is a tee fitting combined with a 1/4-bend

fitting.

Street fitting: A street fitting has a female opening (hub) on one end
and a male opening (spigot) on the other end. Most drainage fittings
have female openings on both ends.
Sweep: A sweep is a drainage fitting used to make a 90° change in the
direction of flow. A short sweep is the same as a quarter bend in plastic
pipes. Short sweeps and quarter bends are different fittings in cast iron
pipes. A quarter bend with a longer radius bend is sometimes called a
long sweep or a long turn quarter bend.

Tee: A fitting with three openings. Two openings are in a straight line,
and one opening is at an approximate 90-degree angle to the others.
Double tees, with four openings, are also available. Use vent tees only
in the dry vent sections of vent pipes.

Wye: A fitting with three openings. Two openings are in a straight line
and one opening is at an approximate 45-degree angle to the others.
Wye fittings can be made with other fittings to make combination
fittings such as a tee-wye and a combination wye and 1/8 bend. Double
wye and double tee-wye fittings are also available.

Table 34: Bend Direction Change

BEND NAME DIRECTION CHANGE
1/4 bend 90°
1/6 bend 60°
1/8 bend 45°
1/16 bend 22 1/2°
Bend pipes for DWV systems include: 1/4 street bend (A), 1/4 bend (B), 1/4 vent bend (C), 1/4 bend
with side inlet (D).

Parts of a toilet drain system include: closet bend (A), closet flange (B), offset closet flange (C).
Tees for use in DWV systems include: Double fixture tee (A), vent tee (B), test tee (C).

Inlet fittings include: bend with low-heel inlet (A), bend with side inlet (B).
Two types of sanitary tees include: Single sanitary tee (A), double sanitary tee (B).

Wye fittings for DWV use include: Wye (A), double wye (B), tee-wye (C).
Table 35: Approved Drainage Fittings for
Changing Flow Direction
TYPE OF FITTING 22 1/2° elbow (1/16 bend)
HORIZ. TO VERT. yes
VERT. TO HORIZ. yes
HORIZ. TO HORIZ. yes

TYPE OF FITTING 45° elbow (1/8 bend)

HORIZ. TO VERT. yes
VERT. TO HORIZ. yes
HORIZ. TO HORIZ. yes

TYPE OF FITTING 60° elbow (1/6 bend)

HORIZ. TO VERT. yes
VERT. TO HORIZ. yes
HORIZ. TO HORIZ. yes

TYPE OF FITTING 90° elbow (1/4 bend) (cast-iron pipes only)

HORIZ. TO VERT. yes
VERT. TO HORIZ. YES for fixture drains ≤ 2 inches NO for other pipes & sizes
HORIZ. TO HORIZ. YES for fixture drains ≤ 2 inches NO for other pipes & sizes

TYPE OF FITTING 90° elbow (1/4 bend and short sweep) (plastic pipes)
HORIZ. TO VERT. yes
VERT. TO HORIZ. YES for fixture drains ≤ 2 inches and all pipes ≥ 3 inches
HORIZ. TO HORIZ. YES for fixture drains ≤ 2 inches NO for other pipes & sizes

TYPE OF FITTING 90° elbow (long sweep and long turn 1/4 bend) (all pipes)
HORIZ. TO VERT. yes
VERT. TO HORIZ. yes
HORIZ. TO HORIZ. yes

TYPE OF FITTING sanitary tee

HORIZ. TO VERT. yes limits on multiple connection fittings
VERT. TO HORIZ. no
HORIZ. TO HORIZ. no

TYPE OF FITTING wye

HORIZ. TO VERT. yes
VERT. TO HORIZ. yes
HORIZ. TO HORIZ. yes

TYPE OF FITTING tee-wye

HORIZ. TO VERT. yes
VERT. TO HORIZ. yes
HORIZ. TO HORIZ. yes
 Drain & Sewer Pipe Connections & Joints

Changing flow direction from vertical to horizontal using a wye fitting and 1/8 bend.
Changing flow direction from vertical to horizontal using a tee-wye.
Changing flow direction from vertical to horizontal using two 1/8 bends.
Changing flow direction from horizontal to horizontal using a long sweep fitting.
Changing flow direction from horizontal to horizontal using a wye fitting.
Changing flow direction from horizontal to horizontal using a long-radius tee-wye fitting.
Changing flow direction from horizontal to vertical using: sanitary tee (A), 1/8 bend (B), wye (C).

DRAINAGE & SEWER PIPE FITTINGS FOR CHANGING FLOW DIRECTION

1. Use the fittings in Table 35 to change the direction of flow in drainage
and sewer pipes.
DRAINAGE & SEWER PIPE FITTINGS: CHANGING FROM HORIZONTAL TO VERTICAL USING
MULTIPLE FITTINGS
1. You may use multiple fittings and double fittings (such as double
sanitary tees) to connect back-to-back fixtures and two or more branch
drains on the same level if directly opposite fitting connections are from
the same size pipe, and if directly opposite fitting connections are from
similar fixture types or fixture groups.
 2. Do not use a double sanitary tee to receive discharge from back-to-back
toilets and from fixtures or appliances with pumping action (such as
washing machines and dishwashers). You may use a double sanitary tee
if the distance between the center of the closet flange and the inlet of the
sanitary tee is at least 18 inches.
QUARTER BENDS WITH HEEL OR SIDE-INLET
1. You may not use a heel-inlet quarter bend to change flow direction from
vertical to horizontal if the fitting serves a toilet. You may use a heel-
inlet quarter bend to change flow direction from horizontal to vertical
without restrictions.
2. You may not connect wet vented fixtures to the low heel inlet of a heel-
inlet quarter bend.
3. You may use the side-inlet of a quarter bend to change the flow
direction when the inlet is horizontal (side facing), but not when the
inlet is vertical (facing up). The side-inlet may accept drainage flow
from any fixture except a toilet. Side and heel inlets are usually 1 1/2- or
2-inch openings and you may not connect a toilet to any opening less
than (<) 3 inches.
4. You may connect a dry vent to the quarter bend side or heel-inlet only
when the inlet is vertical (facing up). You may connect a dry vent to a
quarter bend side or heel-inlet when the inlet is horizontal (side facing)
only when the entire quarter bend fitting is used as part of a dry vent.
Allowed uses of 90° bends with an inlet

Sanitary tee allowed flow direction change

90° bend allowed direction change

Drain & Sewer Pipe Connections & Joints

ABS PLASTIC PIPE JOINTS
1. You may use approved elastomeric gaskets to join buried ABS pipes.
Do not use elastomeric gaskets to join above ground ABS pipes unless
the use is approved by the building official.
2. You may use solvent cement to join ABS pipes above and below
ground. Clean and dry pipes and fittings before applying primer to all
joint surfaces. Apply primer that complies with ASTM F 656 if required
by your local jurisdiction. Make the joint while the solvent cement is
wet. Use solvent cement that complies with ASTM D 2235. Do not use
PVC cement with ABS pipe.
3. You may use threaded joints for Schedule 80 and heavier ABS pipe. The
threads should be NPT type. Do not place threads on the pipe’s interior.
STEEL PIPE JOINTS
1. You may use threaded joints for galvanized steel pipes. The threads
should be NPT type.
2. You may use approved mechanical joints to join galvanized steel pipes.
Install the mechanical joints according to manufacturer’s instructions.
PVC PLASTIC PIPE JOINTS
1. You may use approved elastomeric gaskets to join buried PVC pipes.
Do not use elastomeric gaskets to join above ground PVC pipes unless
the use is approved by the building official.
 2. You may use solvent cement to join PVC pipes above and below
ground. Clean and dry pipes and fittings before applying primer to all
joint surfaces. Apply primer that complies with ASTM F 656 if required
by your local jurisdiction. Apply solvent cement that complies with
ASTM D 2564. Make the joint while the solvent cement is wet. Do not
use ABS cement with PVC pipe.
3. You may use threaded joints for Schedule 80 and heavier PVC pipe. The
threads should be NPT type. Do not place threads on the pipe’s interior.
JOINTS BETWEEN DIFFERENT TYPES OF PIPE
1. Use compression or mechanical-sealing elastomeric fittings approved
for joining the different types of pipe. Install all fittings according to
manufacturer’s instructions.
2. Use an approved brass ferrule with a caulked joint or a mechanical
compression joint when joining copper tubing to cast-iron pipe.
3. Use a brass converter fitting or a dielectric fitting when joining copper
tubing to galvanized steel pipe.
DRAIN & SEWER PIPE SLOPE
1. Install horizontal drainage and sewer pipe with a uniform slope and
alignment.
2. Install pipe not more than 2 1/2 inches in diameter with at least a 1/4 unit
in 12 units (2 percent) slope.
3. Install pipe at least three inches diameter with at least a 1/8 unit in 12
units (one percent) slope.
DRAIN & SEWER PIPE SIZE REDUCTION
1. Do not reduce drainage and sewer pipe size in the direction of the waste
flow. (Note: A four-inch by three-inch closet bend fitting is not
classified as a reduction in size.) Example: do not drain a two-inch trap
into a 1 1/2-inch drainpipe.
You may use a product called transition cement to join ABS and PVC pipe if the product is approved by
your local jurisdiction. This product is not currently approved by general codes, but is frequently used.
Use the correct solvent for the type of pipe you’re using: PVC and CPVC should be welded with PVC
solvent; ABS requires ABS solvent.
Cast-iron drain pipe joints originally were made with hubbed fittings. Since new cast iron is seldom
installed, joinery with cast iron is normally accomplished by connecting the original cast iron to another

material, such as PVC, with a elastomeric gasket.

Install and support DVW pipe to maintain the required uniform slope.

Drain & Sewer Cleanout Openings

CLEANOUT LOCATIONS & SPACING
1. Install a cleanout in every horizontal drainpipe so that the distance
between cleanouts is not more than 100 feet, measured along the pipe’s
developed length. Install at least one cleanout for every horizontal
drainpipe regardless of drainpipe length. This provision applies to the
building drain, building sewer, and horizontal branch drains, not to
fixture drains.
2. Install a cleanout within 10 feet of the building drain and building sewer
junction. You may install this cleanout inside or outside the building.
Make this cleanout accessible. Measure the 10 feet along the developed
length of the pipe from the cleanout fitting to the building drain and
sewer junction.
3. Install a cleanout at every change of pipe direction more than 45
degrees when the direction change uses one fitting. When multiple
 direction changes occur in one pipe run, only one cleanout is required,
spaced not more than 40 feet apart. This provision applies to the
building drain, building sewer, and horizontal branch drains.
CLEANOUT SIZE
1. Install cleanouts that are the same size as the largest pipe served by the
cleanout. Example: you may not use 1 1/2-inch fixture drain as a
cleanout for a 2-inch branch drain.
2. You may install a cleanout in a vertical stack that is one pipe size
smaller than the stack pipe size.
CLEANOUT ACCESSIBILITY
1. Provide at least 18 inches between the cleanout and any obstruction.
Measure the distance perpendicular to the front of the cleanout.
2. Do not conceal cleanouts with permanent finishing materials.
3. Extend underground cleanouts to or above finished grade. Do not
extend cleanouts above surfaces where they may become trip hazards or
where they may be damaged by traffic.
CLEANOUT PLUGS
1. Install brass or plastic plugs in cleanout fittings.
2. Make cleanouts gas and liquid tight.
CLEANOUT DIRECTION
1. Install cleanouts so that they open toward the direction of the waste
flow.
CLEANOUT FIXTURE CONNECTIONS
1. Do not connect other pipes or fixtures to an existing cleanout unless you
install an alternate cleanout. Example: do not remove a cleanout plug
and use the cleanout opening as the drain for a laundry sink.

A cleanout is a threaded, removable cap positioned in a drainpipe run to allow access for equipment
that clears clogs. Every horizontal line should have a cleanout that is no smaller in diameter than the

largest drainpipe in the line.

Seal cleanout plugs before capping cleanout fittings.
For your convenience, keep access clear to cleanouts. Position movable objects, like this washing
machine, so they will not interfere with drain cleaning tools. Permanent obstructions must be kept at

least 18" away from the cleanout, measured perpendicular to the opening.
 Plumbing Vents

T o understand the purpose of plumbing vents, you must first understand

the purpose of plumbing traps. A trap is required for all fixture drains
connected to the DWV pipes. A trap can be a separate fitting, such as a
P-trap for a sink or a shower or it can be part of the fixture, such as the trap
in a toilet. A trap maintains a water seal that keeps noxious and potentially
explosive sewer gas in the DWV pipes and away from the air in the home.
Water flows into a fixture and through a trap when you use a fixture. When
you stop using the fixture, some of the water remains in the trap and
recharges the trap’s water seal.
When water flows in a pipe near a trap, the suction caused by the
flowing water can create enough negative pressure at the trap to pull the
water out of the trap. This is sometimes called siphoning the trap because it
is similar to what happens when you use a hose to siphon fuel out of fuel
tank. If the trap looses its water seal, the home is open to the flow of sewer
gas.
A plumbing vent protects the trap’s water seal by allowing air into the
DWV pipes. The air provided by the vent replaces the air that is drawn
along with the flowing water. This replacement air reduces the suction and
protects the trap. Without properly sized and installed vents, the DWV
system will not function as intended.
Vent pipes should extend in an upward direction from drains. This ensures that wastewater cannot
flow into the vent pipe and block it. At the opposite end, a vent pipe should connect to an existing vent

stack or stack vent at a point at least 6" above the flood rim of the highest fixture draining into the

system.

Vent Slope & Connection to Pipes

PLUMBING VENTS REQUIRED
1. Install an approved vent for every trap and trapped fixture. This means
that every plumbing fixture (such as a sink or a shower) and every
plumbing fixture with an integrated trap (such as a toilet) must be
protected by an individual vent or an approved vent system in which
one vent protects multiple fixtures.
 2. Terminate at least one vent outdoors. Connect the outdoor vent to the
building drain or to a branch or extension of the building drain. The
branch or extension cannot be an island fixture vent.
VENT PIPE SLOPE & SUPPORT
1. Install all vent pipes using adequate supports so that the vent pipes slope
toward the soil or waste pipe. Moisture in any form should flow toward
the soil or waste pipe by gravity. General codes do not specify support
intervals for vent pipes. Supporting vent pipes at the same interval
required for drain pipes is recommended, but not required.

Support vent pipes so they slope toward drain pipes.

VENT PIPE CONNECTION TO HORIZONTAL DRAINAGE PIPES

1. Connect vent pipes to horizontal drainage pipes above the centerline of
the horizontal drainage pipe. This protects the vent pipe from filling
with solid material.
VENT CONNECTION HEIGHT MINIMUMS
1. Connect dry vent pipes to vent stacks, stack vents, and to stack-type air
admittance valves so that the connection point is at least six inches
above the flood rim level of the highest fixture served by the vent. A
common violation of this provision is when a dry vent runs parallel to
the drainage pipes under the fixture. This provision helps protect the
vent pipe from filling with solid material.
 2. Install horizontal branch vent pipes at least six inches above the flood
rim level of the highest fixture served by the vent.
VENT ROUGH-IN FOR FUTURE FIXTURES
1. Install a vent for roughed-in (future) fixtures that is at least one-half the
diameter of the drainpipe rough-in.
2. Connect the roughed-in vent to the vent system or provide another
approved means to terminate the roughed-in vent.
3. Label the roughed-in vent pipe to indicate that it is a vent.
CROWN VENTING
1. Connect the vent fitting at least two pipe diameters from the trap weir.
Connect vent pipes to other vents at least 6" above the highest fixture so that the vent pipe will not
become clogged with solid materials.
VIOLATION! Do not connect the vent pipe within 2 pipe diameters of the trap weir.

Vent Termination
VENT HEIGHT ABOVE ROOF
1. Extend vent pipes above the roof at least six inches, or the number of
inches required by local snow accumulation and temperature conditions,
whichever is higher. Measure vent height from the high side where the
vent exits the roof. Obtain the snow accumulation height from the local
building official.
2. Extend vent pipes at least seven feet above any roof used as a balcony,
observation deck, or similar accessible walking surface.
VENT FREEZING & FROST CLOSURE PROTECTION
1. Protect exterior vent terminals from freezing by using heat or insulation,
or both.
2. Increase the diameter of exterior vent terminal pipes to at least three
inches, beginning at least one foot below the roof or inside the wall.
3. These provisions apply only where the 97.5 percent winter design
temperature is less than 0 degrees Farenheit. Obtain this information
from IRC Chapter 3 and from your local building official.
VENT FLASHING
1. Use approved flashing to make vent pipes extending through a roof
watertight.
2. Use caulk to make vent pipes extending through a wall watertight.
VENT EXTERIOR TERMINATION LOCATIONS
1. Locate plumbing vent terminations at least four feet below, at least three
feet above, or at least 10 feet horizontally from any: (a) door or operable
window, (b) other air intake opening of the building, and (c) air intake
opening of any adjacent building.
2. Locate plumbing vent terminations running through a side wall at least
10 feet from the lot line and at least 10 feet above the highest grade
within 10 feet horizontally from the vent termination.
3. Protect side-wall vent terminations from entry by birds or rodents.
4. Do not locate vent terminations directly under the building’s overhang if
the overhang contains soffit vents.
Use approved vent flashing boots to seal around the vent projections in a roof. Make sure boot angle
is compatible with your roof slope.

VENT CONNECTION DISTANCE FROM TRAP

1. Use Table 37 to determine the maximum length of a fixture drain
between a trap weir and a vent fitting. The vent fitting may be at a vent
pipe, such as an individual vent, or at a vented pipe, such as a wet vent.
Uniform Plumbing Code fixture drain lengths are different.
2. The table does not apply to self-siphoning fixtures, such as toilets. No
fixture drain length limitations apply to these fixtures.
FIXTURE DRAIN SLOPE
1. Connect the fixture drain pipe with not more than one pipe diameter of
fall between the bottom of the trap outlet and the bottom of the vent
fitting inlet. This parallels the distance requirements in Table 37 and
reduces the chance that the trap will drain because the fitting is below
the trap. Example: five feet by 1/4 inch per foot equals 1 1/4 inches. See
the first row of Table 37.
2. Connect the top of the fixture drainpipe to the vent fitting above the trap
weir. This provision does not apply to toilet fixture drains.
 Table 37: Vent Distance from Trap
TRAP SIZE 1 1/4
SLOPE 1/4" per ft.
DISTANCE FROM TRAP TO VENT FITTING 5 ft.

TRAP SIZE 1 1/2

SLOPE 1/4" per ft.
DISTANCE FROM TRAP TO VENT FITTING 6 ft.

TRAP SIZE 2
SLOPE 1/4" per ft.
DISTANCE FROM TRAP TO VENT FITTING 8 ft.

TRAP SIZE 3
SLOPE 1/8" per ft.
DISTANCE FROM TRAP TO VENT FITTING 12 ft.

TRAP SIZE 4
SLOPE 1/8" per ft.
DISTANCE FROM TRAP TO VENT FITTING 16 ft.

The distance from the trap to the vent fitting is limited. Note that the vent fitting may connect to a
vent pipe or to a pipe that is vented, such as a wet vented pipe.
When a vent is connected to a vent stack, the connection should be at least 6 inches above the
fixture flood rim level. This helps avoid improper waste flow through the trap.

Examples of correct individual vent configurations.

VENT PIPE SIZE

1. Use at least a 1 1/4-inch-diameter vent pipe or a vent pipe at least one-
half the diameter of the drainpipe being vented, whichever is larger, as
the dry vent.
 2. Increase the vent pipe diameter by at least one pipe size over the entire
length of the vent pipe when the vent’s developed length is greater than
40 feet.
VENT PIPE DEVELOPED LENGTH
1. Measure the developed length of individual, branch, and circuit vents
beginning where the vent connects to the drainage system and ending
where the vent connects to a vent stack, stack vent, air admittance valve,
or the vent’s termination point outside the building.
INDIVIDUAL VENTS
1. Fixture types: Use an individual vent to protect any fixture.
2. Number of fixtures: Use an individual vent to protect only one fixture.
3. Fixture location: Use an individual vent to protect one fixture located
anywhere in the structure.
4. Individual vent connection location: Connect the individual vent on the
fixture drain of the fixture being vented or at the fixture drain
connection to the drainage system.
5. Fixture drain length to vent connection: Use Table 37 to determine the
maximum distance between the fixture trap weir and the individual vent
fitting.
6. Individual vent pipe size: Use at least a 1 1/4-inch pipe or a pipe at least
one-half the size of the drainpipe being vented, whichever is larger.
Individual vents are the easiest to install. They protect one fixture.

COMMON VENTS
1. Fixture types: Use a common vent to protect any two fixtures. You may
common vent different types of fixtures, such as a sink and a shower or
a shower and a toilet.
2. Number of fixtures: Use a common vent to protect only two fixtures.
3. Fixture location: Use a common vent only for fixtures located on the
same floor level. You may connect the fixture drains at different vertical
levels if the fixtures are on the same floor level.
 4. Common vent connection location: You may connect the common vent
where the fixture drains intersect. You may connect the common vent
downstream from where the fixture drains intersect only when the
fixture drains connect to the branch drainpipe at the same horizontal
level.
5. Fixture drain length to vent connection: Use Table 37 to determine the
maximum distance between each fixture trap weir and the common vent
fitting.
6. Common vent pipe size: Use at least 1 1/4 inches of pipe or a pipe at
least one-half the size of the drainpipe being vented, whichever is larger,
for the common vent.

Common vent with vent connecting at fixture drain intersection.

WET VENTS
1. Fixture types: Use a wet vent to protect any combination of fixtures
from not more than two bathroom groups.
2. Number of fixtures: Use a wet vent to protect not more than two toilets,
two bathtubs or showers, two lavatory sinks, and two bidets.
3. Fixture location: Use a wet vent only for approved bathroom fixtures
located on the same floor level.
4. Wet vent connection location: (a) Begin the wet vent with an individual
or common vent for a lavatory, bidet, shower, or bathtub. This vent does
not need to be at the first wet vented fixture in a horizontal wet vent.
This vent must be at the first wet vented fixture in a vertical wet vent.
End the wet vent at the last wet vented fixture connection to the wet
vented pipe. (b) Do not connect more than one fixture upstream from
the beginning individual or common vent in a horizontal wet vent. (c)
Connect each fixture individually to the wet vented pipe. Do not
connect two or more fixtures together and connect that branch drain to
the wet vented pipe.
5. Horizontal wet vent fixture drain connection location: (a) Connect each
individual fixture drain horizontally to a horizontal wet-vented pipe.
Example: you may not install a wye fitting vertically and connect a
fixture drain to the vertical opening of the wye in a horizontal wet vent.
You may install the wye horizontally and connect the horizontal fixture
drain to the horizontal opening of the wye. (b) You may connect a
fixture drain vertically to a horizontal wet-vented pipe if you install a
dry vent on the vertically connected fixture. Example: you may install a
wye fitting vertically if you connect an individual vent to the fixture. (c)
Do not connect any fixtures to the horizontal wet-vented pipe other than
those fixtures being wet-vented. You may connect other fixtures to the
horizontal pipe downstream after the wet vent ends. Example: do not
connect a bedroom bar sink to a wet-vented pipe.
6. Vertical wet vent fixture drain connection location: (a) Connect all toilet
fixture drains at the same vertical level. (b) Connect fixture drains from
bathtubs, showers, lavatory sinks, and bidets at or above where the toilet
fixture drains connect to the vertical wet vent.
7. Fixture drain length to wet-vented pipe: Use Table 37 (see page 149) to
determine the maximum distance between each fixture trap weir and the
fixture drain fitting at the wet-vented drain pipe. You may use
individual and common vents to protect any fixture where the fixture
drain length limit is a problem.
 8. Wet vent pipe size: (a) Use a dry vent that is at least a 1 1/4-inch pipe or
a pipe at least one-half the size of the wet- vented pipe, whichever is
larger, for the individual or common vent that begins the wet vent. (b)
Use Table 38 to size the horizontal and vertical wet-vented drainage
pipe. You may not connect a toilet to a drainage pipe smaller than three
inches regardless of what is allowed in the table.

Using a wet vent eliminates the need for an individual vent for each fixture.

ISLAND FIXTURE VENT

1. Fixture types: Use an island fixture vent to protect only sinks such as
those in kitchens and bathrooms. You may connect a dishwasher and
disposal to a kitchen sink.
2. Use an island fixture vent to protect any number of approved fixture
types.
3. Use an island fixture vent only for fixtures located in the same island
and on the same floor level.
4. Pipe configuration: (a) Extend the loop portion of the island fixture vent
vertically to above the drain outlet of the fixture being vented before
extending the horizontal and/or vertical downward portion.(b) Use
drainage fittings and pipe slopes for any portion of the vent below the
fixture flood rim level. Do not use vent fittings or slope the vent pipe as
a vent below the fixture flood rim level.(c) Connect the downward
portion of the vent loop downstream from where the fixture drain
connects with the horizontal drainage pipe. Make the connection using a
full size fitting. (d) Provide cleanouts at the downward portion of the
 loop vent and in the vertical portion of the vent pipe before it connects
to the exterior vent pipe.
5. Dry Vent Connection Location: (a) Connect the dry vent to the drainage
system using a full size fitting. Connect the dry vent to a vertical drain
pipe or the top half of a horizontal drain pipe. (b) Extend any dry vent at
least 6 inches above the flood rim level of the highest fixture being
vented before any connection to the outside vent.
6. Fixture Drain Length to Vent Connection: Use Table 37 to determine the
maximum distance between the fixture trap weir and the fixture drain
connection to the island vent.
7. Vent Pipe Size: Use at least a 1 1/4 inches pipe or a pipe at least one-half
the size of the drain pipe size being vented as the dry portion of the
vent, whichever is larger.
 Table 38: Horiz. and Vert. Wet-Vented Drainage
Pipe Size
WET-VENTED PIPE SIZE MAX. DRAIN FIXTURES LOAD
1 1/2 " 1
2" 4
2 1/2" 6
3" 12
4" 32

AIR ADMITTANCE VALVES

1. Install air admittance valves according to manufacturer’s installation
instructions and general code provisions.
2. You may use air admittance valves to vent individual vents, branch
vents, circuit vents, and stack vents. Use individual and branch-type air
admittance valves to vent fixtures that are on the same floor level and
that are connected to a horizontal branch drain.
3. Use air admittance valves that are rated for the vent size to which the
valve is connected.
4. Locate individual and branch-type air admittance valves at least four
inches above the horizontal branch drain or fixture drain being vented.
5. Locate stack-type air admittance valves at least six inches above the
flood rim level of the highest fixture being vented.
6. Locate the air admittance valve within the vent’s developed length
limits.
7. Locate air admittance valves in attics at least six inches above
insulation.
8. Provide air admittance valves with access and adequate ventilation.
9. Install air admittance valves within 15° of vertical and do not install air
admittance valves outdoors unless allowed by the manufacturer’s
instructions.
 10. Do not use an air admittance valve as the vent for a sewage ejector
tank unless the vent system for the tank is designed by an engineer.
11. Look for the UPC symbol on the air admittance valve. Air admittance
valves without this symbol are for use only in manufactured homes.
They may not be used in homes governed by the IRC.

An island fixture vent is a fairly complicated venting configuration used to vent fixtures installed in a
kitchen island. To further complicate matters, many codes now require that the vent pipe from the

fixture connect to the vent stack at least 6 inches above the fixture flood rim.
Air admittance valves can be installed in an island cabinet to vent a sink drain line, greatly simplifying
the venting process.
 Plumbing Traps
TRAP SIZE
1. Use Table 39 to determine the minimum trap size for most plumbing
fixtures.
2. Do not install separate traps on toilets, urinals, and other fixtures that
have traps in the fixture itself.
3. Do not install a trap that is larger than the drainage pipe into which the
trap discharges. Example: do not connect a two-inch trap to a 1 1/2-inch
pipe on the discharge side of the trap.
TRAP SEAL
1. Install traps with a water seal of at least two inches and not more than
four inches.
2. Install floor drain traps that have a deep seal (near four inches) design or
a trap primer. Connect trap primer valves above the trap seal level.

Measure the water seal from the trap dip to the crown weir.
VIOLATION! Install traps so that the water seal is level. Traps set out of level may lose their water seal
and will not drain properly.
 Table 39: Minimum Trap Size for Plumbing
Fixtures
PLUMBING FIXTURE MINIMUM TRAP SIZE
Bathtub (equipped or not equipped with shower head or whirlpool) 1 1/2"
Bidet 1 1/4"
Clothes washing machine standpipe 2"
Dishwasher (separately trapped) 1 1/2"
Floor drain 2"
Kitchen sink (equipped or not equipped with dishwasher or 1 1/2"
disposal and trapped using one or two traps)
Laundry tubs (≥ 1 compartments) 1 1/2"
Lavatory 1 1/4"
Shower (total flow rate of all showerheads and body sprays) ≤ 5.7 1 1/2"
gallons per minute (gpm) > 5.7 gpm and ≤ 12.3 gpm > 12.3 gpm 2"
and ≤ 25.8 gpm > 25.8 gpm and ≤ 55.6 gpm 3"
4"

TRAP INSTALLATION
1. Set traps level with respect to their water seal.
2. Protect traps from freezing.
3. Provide access to traps with slip joints at the trap inlet or outlet.
4. Do not install more than one trap per fixture.
5. Limit the vertical distance between the fixture drain outlet and the trap
weir to not more than 24 inches.
6. Limit the horizontal distance between the fixture drain outlet and the
center of the trap inlet to not more than 30 inches. Note that this 30
inches horizontal distance may be eliminated or not enforced in some
jurisdictions. Verify if this provision applies in your jurisdiction.
PROHIBITED TRAPS
1. Do not install the following types of traps: bell traps, drum traps, S-
traps, traps with moving parts, and building traps.
 Plumbing Appliances & Fixtures

T he installation and hookup of appliances that are part of your home

plumbing system is the part of the plumbing process that DIYers are
most likely to attempt. The information in this section provides a good
general backdrop for making plumbing hookups, but be sure to read the
manufacturer’s installation recommendations carefully. As always,
manufacturer instructions take precedence over codes.

Water Heaters
Replacing a water heater is a relatively easy DIY plumbing task as long as
it is a like-for-like replacement. In an ideal situation, you’d replace the old
unit with one of the exact same size and make, and thereby avoid having to
move any gas, water, or electrical lines. But if you choose to upgrade or
downgrade in size, or perhaps replace an old electric water heater with a gas
water heater that costs less to run, you’ll find that relocating the necessary
lines isn’t that difficult.
Water heaters for primary duty in residences range in size from 30
gallons to 65 gallons. For a family of four, a 40- or 50-gallon model should
be adequate. While you don’t want to run out of hot water every morning,
you also don’t want to pay to heat more water than you use. Base your
choice on how well your current water heater is meeting your demand.
PROHIBITED LOCATIONS FOR WATER HEATERS
1. Do not install fuel-fired water heaters in rooms used as storage closets.
You may install water heaters in closets used solely to store the water
heater if you provide adequate combustion air in the closet. You may
install electric water heaters in any closet when allowed by the
manufacturer.
2. Do not install fuel-fired water heaters in bedrooms or bathrooms unless
the water heater is installed in a sealed enclosure where combustion air
does not come from the living space. This restriction does not apply to
direct vent water heaters.
3. You may provide access to water heaters located in attics or crawl
spaces through bedrooms, bathrooms, or their closets if ventilation of
the bedroom, bathroom, or closet complies with codes.

Safety Tip
You can save money by installing the new appliance yourself, and by
making the plumbing hookups. Hire a professional to make gas
hookups.
Water heaters typically last for at least 10 years, but once they start to show signs of aging, it’s a good
idea to replace them with a new, more efficient appliance.
WATER HEATER RELIEF VALVES
1. Install either a separate temperature relief valve and a separate pressure
relief valve or a combination temperature and pressure relief valve on
all appliances used to heat or store hot water. Combination temperature
and pressure relief valves (T&P valves) are used almost exclusively in
modern water heaters. This provision applies to tank-type, tankless, and
swimming pool water heaters.
2. Install the temperature relief or T&P valve on the top of the water heater
or on the side of the water heater within six inches of the top. Do not
install an extension pipe between the water heater and the T&P valve.
3. Do not install a check valve or shutoff valve anywhere that might
interfere with the operation of the relief valve or the flow of water or
steam from the discharge pipe.

The T&P valve is a critical safety device that is required on all water heaters.
T&P valves should be installed on your water heater prior to placing the appliance in position. Many
water heaters today come with the T&P valve preinstalled.

WATER HEATER RELIEF VALVE DISCHARGE PIPE

1. Use water distribution pipe listed in Table 31 (see page 131) as the relief
valve discharge pipe. Copper and CPVC are the most commonly used
discharge pipes. It is difficult to maintain uniform slope and fall on
flexible pipes such as PEX.
2. Install the discharge pipe so hot water and steam will not cause personal
injury or property damage if the relief valve discharges.
3. Install the discharge pipe so that any leaking from the pipe outlet is
readily observable by the building occupants.
4. Use a discharge pipe that is at least as large as the relief valve opening.
This size is usually 3/4 inch in diameter. Use 1-inch diameter PEX
tubing if you use this as the discharge pipe.
5. Run the discharge pipe full size to the floor, to an indirect waste
receptor (such as a floor drain) inside the building, to the water heater
drip pan, or outside the building. If the area is subject to freezing,
terminate the discharge pipe through an air gap into an indirect waste
receptor located inside the building. You may use other discharge points
in areas subject to freezing, if approved by the local building official.
6. Slope the discharge pipe so that it drains by gravity from the relief valve
to the discharge point.
 7. Do not connect the discharge pipe directly to the building’s drain, waste,
and vent system. Leave an air gap between the discharge pipe and the
floor, ground, or other termination point.
8. Do not install a trap or a valve or a threaded outlet in the discharge pipe.
9. Terminate the discharge pipe through an air gap not more than 6 inches
and not less than 1 1/2 inches above the floor.
10. Do not connect more than one appliance to a discharge pipe.

SAFETY TIP
T&P valve manufacturers recommend testing the valve at least once per
year. They also recommend having a licensed plumber inspect the valve
at least every 3 years. Minerals in the water can collect on the sensor
and render the valve inoperable. Check and follow the safety
instructions for your T&P valve.

WATER HEATER DRIP PANS

1. Install a drip pan under water heaters located where leakage could cause
damage. These locations often include attics and all areas within the
conditioned area of the home, including finished basements.
2. Use a drip pan at least 1 1/2-inches deep and made with at least 24-
gauge galvanized steel or other approved materials. Use a pan with a
size and shape to catch all leaks and condensation from the water heater.
Do not install a plastic pan under a gas-fired water heater.
3. Run the discharge pipe to an indirect waste receptor (such as a floor
drain) or to the outside of the building. Terminate the pipe not more than
24 inches or not less than 6 inches above the ground or a waste receptor
such as a floor drain.
4. You are not required to install a pan under a replacement water heater if
no pan is currently installed.
Install a drip pan under a water heater when water leaks might damage surrounding areas. Use at least

a 3/4" diameter discharge pipe to drain the drip pan. Use a larger discharge pipe if the connection to

3
the drip pan is more than /4" diameter.
The vent for a gas water heater should be connected securely to the draft hood at the top of the
appliance.
PEX connection to an electric water heater is allowed by PEX guidelines. Follow the water heater
manufacturer’s instructions about transition pipe type.
 Toilets
You can replace a poorly functioning or inefficient toilet with a high-
efficiency, high-quality new toilet in just a single afternoon. All toilets
made since 1994 have been required to use 1.6 gallons or less per flush,
which has been a huge challenge for the industry. Today, the most evolved
1.6-gallon toilets have wide passages behind the bowl and wide (three-inch)
flush valve openings—features that facilitate short, powerful flushes. This
means fewer second flushes and fewer clogged toilets. These problems
were common complaints of the first generation of 1.6-gallon toilets and
continue to beleaguer inferior models today. See what toilets are available at
your local home center in your price range, then go online and see what
other consumers’ experiences with those models have been. New toilets
often go through a “debugging” stage when problems with leaks and
malfunctioning parts are more common. Your criteria should include ease of
installation, good flush performance, and reliability. With a little research,
you should be able to purchase and install a high-functioning economical
gravity-flush toilet that will serve you well for years to come.
Most toilet tanks today are equipped with a float cup style fill valve rather than the float ball types
that were common previously. Some have power-assisted flush mechanisms to boost today’s low-flow

toilets.
GENERAL REQUIREMENTS
1. Install toilets with an approved flushing mechanism that provides
enough water to clear and refill the toilet bowl and refill the toilet’s
internal trap. Approved flushing mechanisms are the common gravity
feed flush tanks (one- and two-piece tanks) and power-assisted tanks or
valves.
2. Install toilets that use an average of not more than 1.6 gallons per flush.
3. Provide the toilet with an adequate supply of water. Control the water
supply with an automatic device (such as a float valve) that will refill
the toilet tank after each flush and completely stop the flow of water to
the tank when the tank is full. The device should also supply enough
water to refill the toilet.
4. Install toilets with a flush valve seat in the toilet tank that is at least one
inch above the flood level of the toilet bowl. An alternate design (used
by low-profile one-piece toilets) is acceptable. This design closes the
flush valve when the toilet is clogged and prevents water from flowing
back into the tank.
5. Provide toilet tanks with an overflow pipe or mechanism that is
sufficient to prevent the tank from flooding if the fill valve
malfunctions.
6. Provide access to all parts in the toilet tank for repair and replacement.
Do not install permanent counter tops or similar obstructions that
restrict access to the tank.
7. Use toilet seats made of smooth, non-absorbent material properly sized
for the toilet bowl.
8. Use corrosion-resistant screws, nuts, bolts, and washers to secure toilets
to the closet flange.
BACKFLOW PROTECTION OF TOILET FILL VALVES
1. Protect toilets with an approved antisiphon fill valve.
2. Locate the backflow preventer at least one inch above the opening of
the overflow pipe. Fill valves with all parts below the tank water line
usually violate this provision.
TOILET (CLOSET) FLANGE
1. Install a closet flange that is firmly attached to a structural support
(floor) to connect a toilet to drainage piping. Use a closet flange that is
compatible with the connected drainage pipe. Example: do not use a
PVC closet flange with ABS pipe. Do not use the closet flange to
provide structural support to the toilet.
2. Use non-corrosive bolts and an approved gasket (O-ring) or other
approved setting compound to secure the toilet and closet flange and to
make the seal watertight.
The water inlet of a fill valve should usually be above the tank’s water line to reduce backflow of
wastewater into the drinking water system.
An overflow tube must be provided inside the toilet tank to keep water from rising out of the tank if
the fill valve is malfunctioning.
The closet flange and O-ring seal the plumbing connection. The closet flange does not support the
toilet.
 Dishwashing Machines
GENERAL REQUIREMENTS
1. You may discharge a dishwashing machine, a disposal, and a kitchen
sink into one 1 1/2-inch-diameter drain (trap). Use a 3/4-inch-diameter
dishwashing machine drain tube when discharging the dishwashing
machine into either a sink drain (trap) or a disposal. Connect the
dishwashing machine drain tube to a wye fitting in the sink tailpiece
when connecting the drain line directly to the sink tailpiece. Loop the
dishwashing machine drain line as high as possible in the sink cabinet
and securely fasten or install an air gap device. An air gap device is not
required in the dishwashing machine drain tube.

Use a wye tailpiece fitting when connecting a dishwashing machine drain tube directly to a sink.
A dishwashing machine drain tube high loop is one method of backflow prevention. Secure the tube as
high as possible in the sink base cabinet.
A dishwashing machine drain air gap device is one method of backflow prevention. Install the device
according to manufacturer’s instructions. These are required in some jurisdictions instead of a high

loop.

Food Disposers
FITTINGS
1. Use an approved directional fitting on the tailpiece when connecting a
disposal or dishwashing machine. This helps direct the waste down into
the plumbing drain system and avoids blockage and blow back up the
tailpiece when these appliances discharge under pressure. Examples of
directional fittings include the waste tee with a baffle and a sanitary tee.
A sanitary tee fitting is one possible directional fitting when draining a dishwashing machine or food
disposer into a kitchen sink.
A waste tee with a baffle is one possible directional fitting when draining a dishwashing machine or
food disposer into a kitchen sink.

Clothes Washing Machines

FITTINGS
1. Discharge the wastewater from a clothes washing machine through an
air gap. Do not connect the clothes washing machine drain line directly
to the plumbing waste pipes. Inserting the clothes washing machine
drain hose into the standpipe is the most common acceptable method of
providing the required air gap.
 2. Install a water-hammer arrestor where required to control water flow
and reduce the possibility of water hammer. A water-hammer arrestor
may be used near a quick-closing valve such as in a clothes washing
machine.

Water-hammer arrestors may be required in some jurisdictions at clothes washing machine hose
connections.
 Whirlpool Bathtubs (Jetted Baths)
GENERAL REQUIREMENTS
1. Install whirlpool tubs according to manufacturer’s instructions. This
includes: testing the tub for leaks and pump operation, usually prior to
installation, and providing adequate support for the tub, water, and
occupants. Some whirlpool tub manufacturers allow plaster as a tub
support method. Plaster is not the same as drywall joint compound. Do
not use drywall joint compound to support bathtubs unless it is
specifically approved by the tub manufacturer.
2. Provide a door or access panel large enough to allow service personnel
to repair and replace the pump. The door size will depend on where the
pump is located relative to the door. The door may have to be larger
than the specified minimum size if the pump is located far away from
the door.
3. Make the access opening at least 12 inches by 12 inches if the
manufacturer does not specify an opening size. Make the access
opening at least 18 inches by 18 inches if the pump is located more than
two feet away from the opening. Do not place obstructions, such as tub
support framing and pipes, between the access opening and the pump.
4. Locate the circulation pump above the crown weir of the trap.
5. Install circulation pipes and pump drain line so that they are self-
draining and retain minimum possible water after using the tub.
6. Install whirlpool bathtub motors on a GFCI-protected circuit. Do not
use the bathroom receptacle circuit for this purpose.
7. Install a copper bonding wire at least #8 AWG connecting all metal
pipes, pump motors, and other electrical equipment associated with the
whirlpool bathtub. Do not bond grounded double insulated whirlpool
bathtub pump motors.
Whirlpool tub motors need access for maintenance and replacement. The access opening must be large
enough to allow effective access to the motor. Connect a bonding wire between the tub motor and

metal water pipes for electrical safety.

A bathtub can crack and drain connections can loosen and leak unless it is properly supported. Here,
the tub is installed on a bed of hardened mortar.
 Showers
SHOWER SIZE
1. Provide showers with a finished area of at least 900 square inches and a
finished minimum dimension of at least 30 inches. Maintain the
minimum dimensions from the top of the threshold to at least 70 inches
above the shower drain outlet. Measure the shower from the centerline
of the threshold (curb). You may install valves, showerheads, soap
dishes, and grab bars that encroach into the minimum dimensions. You
may install a fold-down seat in the shower if the minimum dimensions
are maintained when the seat is up.
2. You may provide a shower with a finished minimum dimension of at
least 25 inches if the finished area is at least 1,300 square inches.
3. Provide shower compartment access of at least 22-inch finished width.
4. Swing hinged shower doors out from the shower stall. Hinged doors
may swing into the shower stall if they also swing out. Sliding shower
doors are also allowed.
WATER SUPPLY RISER
1. Secure the pipe between the shower valve and the showerhead to the
permanent structure. This provision applies whether the riser is visible
or concealed. Securing the riser helps avoid leaks if the riser twists and
becomes loose at joints.
SHOWER RECEPTOR CONSTRUCTION
1. You are not required to install a raised curb or threshold at the entrance
to a shower. Showers designed for wheelchair access will not have a
curb or threshold.
2. Install a shower curb or threshold (when used): (a) at least 1 inch below
the sides and back of the receptor; and (b) at least 2 inches and not more
than 9 inches above the top of the drain.
3. Slope the shower floor at least 1/4 unit in 12 units (two percent slope)
and not more than 1/2 unit in 12 units.
4. Use a flanged shower floor drain that provides a watertight seal at the
floor.
 5. Use hot-mopped felt, sheet lead, sheet copper, approved plastic liner
material, or approved trowel applied liquid material when installing a
site-built shower receptor. Plastic liners (such as chlorinated
polyethylene and plasticized polyvinyl chloride) are the most common
modern site-built liner material.
6. Extend the lining material at least 2 inches beyond or around the rough
jambs of the shower receptor. Extend the lining material at least 2
inches above the finished threshold or curb.
7. Attach the lining material to an approved backing. Nail or perforate the
lining at least one inch above the finished threshold. Seal joints in
plastic lining material according to manufacturer’s instructions.
8. Install an approved flanged shower drain that is equipped with weep
holes into the drain and is equipped with a flange that makes a
watertight seal between the lining material and the drain.

A sufficiently large shower stall is more than a convenience—it is a safety issue.

Attaching the shower riser pipe to framing helps avoid water leaks caused when adjusting the
showerhead loosens the pipe fittings.

Proper installation of a site-built shower receptor is critical to avoiding costly water leaks.
Water Supply Backflow Prevention
An important part of the design and use of the drinking (potable) water
supply system is preventing contamination of potable water.
Contamination can occur when the potable water supply is intentionally
or unintentionally connected to a contaminant source. A cross-
connection is a connection between the potable water supply and a
potential contaminant source. Backflow is when material (usually
liquid) travels in the reverse of the intended direction within a cross-
connection. Contamination occurs when contaminated material
backflows into the potable water system through a cross-connection.
Some cross-connections are intended. Examples of intended cross-
connections include toilet tank fill valves, automatic fill systems for
swimming pools, and lawn irrigation systems. Some cross-connections
are unintended. Examples of unintended cross-connections include
spray hoses connected to a laundry tub faucet and garden hoses
attached to chemical sprayers. In these examples, a sudden loss of
water pressure in the potable water supply system or an increase in
pressure at the contaminant source could allow a contaminant to be
drawn back into the potable water system. If the liquid were weed killer
in a spray bottle at the end of a garden hose, the weed killer could be
drawn into the potable water system.
Backflow into the potable water system can occur by backpressure
or by backsiphonage. Backpressure occurs when the pressure in the
cross-connection source exceeds the pressure in the potable water
supply system. Contaminated material is forced under pressure into the
potable water system. Sources of backpressure include pumps, liquid
storage tanks at a higher elevation than the cross-connection point, and
thermal expansion from a heat source such as a water heater.
Backsiphonage occurs when the pressure in the potable water supply
system falls below atmospheric pressure. Air pressure can force
contaminated material into the potable water supply system or negative
pressure in the potable water supply system can draw contaminated
material into the potable water supply system.
The IRC requires protections of all potable water supply outlets and
all intentional cross-connections by an air gap or by an approved
backflow prevention device.
Air Gap Terms
Air gap: An air gap is the unobstructed distance between a water
supply fixture outlet opening and the flood rim level of a receptor.
Example: the vertical distance between a sink spout and the highest
level that the water in the sink could reach without overflowing is the
air gap.

Air gap distance measurement: Measure the air gap distance between
the plumbing fixture outlet opening and the flood rim of the fixture or
receptor. Measure the fixture outlet opening diameter without the
aerator attached. Measure the vertical air gap distance with the aerator
attached.

Air gap minimum distances: Provide an air gap distance based on the
effective size of the fixture outlet opening. In most cases this distance is
twice the fixture outlet opening diameter. Example: if a bathroom sink
faucet outlet opening is 1/2", then the minimum vertical air gap between
the faucet outlet opening and the flood rim of the sink is 1".
Most commercially available faucets are designed to provide the required minimum air gap
distance.

Irrigation Systems
1. Protect lawn irrigation system water connections by installing an
atmospheric vacuum breaker, a pressure vacuum breaker, or a reduced
pressure backflow preventer.
2. Do not install a valve downstream from an atmospheric vacuum
breaker.
 3. Install a reduced pressure backflow preventer if chemicals are
introduced into the irrigation system.

VIOLATION: Pressure vacuum breakers are a common way to protect lawn irrigation systems. This
manifold is missing a backflow preventer (inset photo) and is a code violation.
PVC supply tubing is a good choice for bringing water to a home irrigation system: 3/4" inside
diameter schedule 40 is shown here.
Sprinkler heads in many irrigation systems are tied into the water supply with thin riser flex pipes. The
union is typically made with a barbed fitting.
Electrical System

H ome wiring is a very popular do-it-yourself subject that is

fundamentally hazardous. When it comes to electricity, mistakes and
accidents do pose threats including fire, injury, and death. Therefore,
safety is the primary focus of the electrical code provisions.
In this chapter you will find many of the rules governing safe installation
of electrical wires, electrical equipment—including conduit, electrical
receptacles, switches, lights, and other fixtures. Use this information to
inspect your wiring and make sure it all conforms to code. If it does not, or
if you are unsure about it, have a professional electrician upgrade your
electrical system.

In this chapter:
• Understanding Electrical Circuits
• Electrical Grounding & Bonding
• Electrical Branch Circuit Requirements
• Electrical Receptacle Installation
• Ground-fault (GFCI) & Arc-fault (AFCI) Protection
• Junction Boxes, Device Boxes & Enclosures
• Switch Installation
• Light Fixture Installation
• Satellite Dishes, Television & Radio Antennas
• Broadband Cable Wiring
Definitions of Electrical Terms
Accessible (wires): Wires are accessible if they can be exposed without
removing or damaging permanent parts of the building and if a person
can reach them for inspection, repair, or maintenance. Examples: wires
are accessible if they are behind suspended ceiling panels, or if access
requires opening a door, removing an access panel, or climbing a
ladder. Wires are not accessible if you must cut drywall to expose the
wires or if they are located in an area that cannot be reached for repair,
inspection, or maintenance.

Accessible (readily): Electrical components are readily accessible if

they can be reached quickly without moving or climbing over
obstructions (such as pictures and work benches) and without using a
portable ladder. Locks may be used to secure readily accessible
components; however, the key or combination should be readily
accessible to all occupants at all times. Panelboards and service
disconnect equipment must be readily accessible in case circuits need to
be shut off during an emergency.

Bonding: Metallic components are bonded if they are physically and

electrically connected together. Example: a bonding wire should
connect a swimming pool motor and nearby metal parts of the electrical
supply system. Example: metal conduit should be electrically and
mechanically connected where it enters a panelboard cabinet.
Bonded metallic components are part of an electrically conductive
path that will safely conduct current imposed by a ground fault.
Example: when metal conduit containing a damage wire becomes
energized, this is a ground fault. A proper bonding connection will
conduct the fault current on the conduit safely to the electrical panel
and allow proper operation of the circuit breaker or fuse. Otherwise, a
person touching the energized conduit could become the electrical
circuit and that person could receive a dangerous shock or the current
flow could generate enough heat to start a fire.

Branch circuit: A branch circuit begins at a circuit breaker or fuse in a

panelboard and conducts electricity to where it is used. A branch circuit
can serve one device, such as an oven, or it can serve multiple devices
such as receptacles and light fixtures.

Cable: Any two or more wires contained in an insulating sheath or

jacket. Most wire used in residential construction is actually a cable
called nonmetallic cable and abbreviated NM. “Romex” is a common
brand name belonging to one manufacturer of NM cable.

Grounded: The ground in an electrical system is the return path

through which alternating current electricity flows to return to its
source (the utility’s transformer and ultimately to the power generating
station). A grounded conductor is connected to the earth or to some
body that serves as the earth. A grounded connection may be
intentional (as in a circuit’s grounded conductor) or it may be
unintentional (as in a ground fault).

Grounded wire: A grounded conductor, broadly defined, is any

conductor that is intentionally grounded. The common term for the
grounded conductor in residential electrical systems is the “neutral”
wire. The grounded conductor is a current-carrying conductor. You
should treat it as such when working with electrical circuits. Grounded
conductors are usually insulated with white or light gray colored
insulation.

Grounding wire: A grounding conductor, also called an equipment

grounding conductor, connects electrical equipment to the grounding
electrode system. This connection usually occurs at a grounding bus or
terminal bar at the service equipment that is in turn connected to a
grounding electrode. Grounding conductors are bare wires or may be
insulated with green-colored insulation.

Grounding electrode: A component in contact with the earth that

provides the grounding connection for the electrical system. Common
residential grounding electrodes include a copper rod driven at least
eight feet into the ground, or a metal water service pipe, or a piece of
reinforcing steel embedded in the footing.
Grounding electrode wire: The grounding electrode conductor is a
wire that connects the grounding electrode to the grounded conductors.
In most residential electrical systems, the only connection between the
grounding electrode conductor and the grounded conductors should
occur at the service equipment.

Ground fault: A ground fault occurs when metal that is not normally
energized becomes energized. Examples of a ground fault: (a) the hot
(ungrounded) wire in a motor is damaged or disconnected and touches
the motor’s case energizing the case; (b) a screw penetrates the
insulation of a hot (ungrounded) wire in an electrical panelboard and
energizes the cabinet; (c) damaged insulation on a hot (ungrounded)
wire allows the conductor to touch copper water pipe energizing the
pipe.

Location (damp): Damp locations are subject to moderate levels of

moisture but are not subject to direct saturation by liquids. Examples of
damp locations include covered porches and some basements. Many
inspectors consider ceilings over showers and bathtubs as damp
locations but general codes do not specifically cite these as damp
locations.

Location (wet): Wet locations are subject to direct contact with liquids
or the elements. Examples of wet locations include exterior house walls
not protected by a roof, concrete and masonry in contact with the earth,
and any components buried or in contact with the earth.

Multiwire branch circuit: A multiwire branch circuit is a three-wire

branch circuit with two hot (ungrounded) wires and one neutral
(grounded) wire. In residential electrical systems, the voltage between
the two hot (ungrounded) wires is 240 volts, and the voltage between
the hot (ungrounded) wires and the neutral (grounded) wire is 120
volts. When a multiwire branch circuit is operating as intended, the
current on the shared neutral (grounded) wire is zero. Split-wired
receptacles that provide the required two 20-amp kitchen countertop
receptacle circuits are one example of a multiwire branch circuit.
Clothes dryer and range circuits are another example. Water heater and
air conditioning condenser circuits are usually not multiwire branch
circuits because there is no neutral (ungrounded) wire in the circuit.

Outlet: An outlet is a connection point where electricity is taken for

use. An outlet could be a receptacle, a light fixture box, a junction box
connected to an oven, or an air conditioning condenser disconnect box.
Switch boxes, junction boxes, and panelboards are not outlets.

Overcurrent protection device: An overcurrent protection device

automatically interrupts the flow of electricity if the current flowing
through the device exceeds a design maximum amount. Common
examples in residential electrical systems are fuses and circuit breakers.

Receptacle: A device into which a plug is inserted and through which

electricity flows to equipment that uses electricity. Receptacles include
the familiar single (one plug) and duplex (two plug) 120-volt devices
and the 240-volt devices most often seen in laundry rooms to serve
electric clothes dryers.

Service drop: The service drop describes overhead electrical wires

beginning at the power pole and ending where the service drop wires
connect to the service entrance wires. This is usually at the service
point near the mast on the roof.

Service entrance wires: Service entrance wires run from the service
point to the service equipment. Typically, the service entrance wires
mark the point in your home wiring system where the equipment is the
responsibility of the homeowner and not the utility company.

Ungrounded conductor: An ungrounded conductor is one that

intentionally carries electricity. The common term for an ungrounded
conductor in residential electrical systems is the “hot” or “live” wire or
conductor. Ungrounded conductors are usually insulated with red- or
black-colored insulation.
Multiwire branch circuits.
Typical Home Wiring System
 Understanding Electrical Circuits

A n electrical circuit is a continuous loop. Household circuits carry

current from the main service panel, throughout the house, and back to
the main service panel. Several switches, receptacles, light fixtures, or
appliances may be connected to a single circuit.
Current enters a circuit loop on hot wires and returns along neutral wires.
These wires are color coded for easy identification. Hot wires are black or
red, and neutral wires are white or light gray. For safety, most circuits
include a bare copper or green insulated grounding wire. The grounding
wire conducts current when wires or equipment are malfunctioning and
helps reduce the chance of severe electrical shock. The service panel also
has a bonding wire connected to any metal water pipes.
If a circuit carries too much current, it can overload. A fuse or a circuit
breaker protects each circuit in case of overloads.
Current returns to the service panel along a neutral circuit wire. Current
then leaves the house on a large neutral service wire that returns it to the
utility pole transformer.
 Wiring Safety
Safety should be the primary concern of anyone working with
electricity. Although most household electrical repairs are simple and
straightforward, always use caution and good judgment when working
with electrical wiring or devices. Common sense can prevent accidents.
The basic rule of electrical safety is: Always turn off power to the
area or device you are working on. At the main service panel, remove
the fuse or shut off the circuit breaker that controls the circuit you are
servicing. Then check to make sure the power is off by testing for
power with a current tester. Restore power only when the repair or
replacement project is complete.
Follow the safety tips shown on these pages. Never attempt an
electrical project beyond your skill or confidence level. Never attempt
to repair or replace your main service panel or service entrance head.
These are jobs for a qualified electrician and require that the power
company shuts off power to your house.

General Requirements
MINIMUM SERVICE CURRENT CAPACITY REQUIREMENTS
1. Provide at least 100-amp service to a single family home.
2. Provide at least 60-amp service to an accessory structure. Exceptions to
the 60-amp minimum service exist for one- and two-circuit service to
accessory structures.
3. You may use the following wire sizes as a feeder when the load at the
accessory structure is limited to one or two 15 or 20 amp, 120 volt,
branch circuits: (a) use at least #10 AWG copper or #8 AWG aluminum
wire if the accessory structure has not more than two 15 or 20 amp, 120
volt branch circuits, (b) use at least #14 AWG copper or #12 AWG
aluminum if the accessory structure has only one 15 amp, 120 volt
branch circuit and use at least the same size feeder wire as used for the
branch circuit.
 4. Provide an equipment grounding wire with the feeder wires and refer to
the grounding requirements section if there are at two or more branch
circuits in the accessory structure.
CLOSURE OF UNUSED OPENINGS
1. Close all openings in boxes, conduit bodies, and cabinets with material
that provides protection equal to the original opening cover. This means
using plastic or metal knockout covers. Tape and cardboard do not
provide equal protection.
2. Recess metal knockout covers in non-metallic boxes and conduit bodies
at least 1/4 inch from the surface of the box or conduit body.
3. Cover open outlet boxes with a blank cover, a blank plate, or fixture
canopy. Switch plates and receptacle plates do not provide complete
closure for electrical boxes.
4. Ground metal covers and plates.
IDENTIFICATION OF CIRCUITS IN ELECTRICAL PANELS
1. Provide a legible and permanent marking or label that identifies the
purpose of circuit breakers, fuses, and other equipment used to
disconnect power from a circuit. Identify the circuit in enough detail so
that it can be distinguished from all other circuits. Example: do not
identify a circuit as general lighting. Identify the specific rooms or
outlets served by the circuit. A marking or label is not required if the
purpose of the disconnecting equipment is self-evident. Use marking or
labeling materials that will withstand the environment where the
disconnecting equipment is located.
2. Locate the circuit identification on the face of the panelboard enclosure
or on the inside panelboard door.
PROHIBITED LOCATIONS FOR ELECTRICAL PANELS
1. Do not locate electrical panels and circuit breakers and fuses in clothes
closets, bathrooms, over stairway steps, or in spaces designated for
storage.
WORKING CLEARANCES AROUND ELECTRICAL PANELS
1. Inspect your electrical panels to make sure they conform to Code. If not,
hire a professional electrician to relocate it. Panel should have a clear
working space in front of electrical panel enclosures and other
equipment and enclosures that require access while interior parts are
energized. Examples of other enclosures and equipment include air
conditioner and furnace service-disconnect boxes.
2. Provide a clear working space around electrical panels that is at least 36
inches deep, and at least 30 inches wide (or as wide as the enclosure if it
is wider than 30 inches), and at least 78 inches high (or as high as the
enclosure if it is higher than 78 inches). Measure the clear working
space from any exposed energized parts or from the cover in front of
covered energized parts.
3. Panel should have enough clearance so that the enclosure door can be
opened at least 90 degrees.
4. Do not allow any objects located above or below the electrical
enclosures to extend into the clear working space more than six inches
beyond the front of the electrical enclosure.
5. Panel should provide access to the clear working space. Do not block
access with shelves, workbenches, or other difficult to move objects.
6. Install electrical panels and circuit breakers and fuses so that the circuit
breaker handle or fuse is not more than 79 inches above the floor or
ground when the center of the handle is in its highest position.
7. You may install electrical panels rated not more than 200 amps in
existing buildings where the working space height is less than 78
inches. This does not apply to new construction.
Cover open conduit knockouts in electrical boxes with an approved plastic or metal cap (inset).

Label each circuit in all electrical panels so that the purpose of each circuit is clear.
CLEAR SPACE ABOVE & BELOW ELECTRICAL PANEL ENCLOSURES
1. Maintain a clear space directly above and below electrical panel
enclosures, free from any components not associated with the electrical
system. This space is intended for wires entering and leaving the
electrical panel. Do not install plumbing pipes, HVAC ducts, and similar
components in this space.
2. Maintain a clear space that is at least the width and depth of the
electrical panel enclosure.

Your equpment should include a safe space above, in front of, and below all electrical panels and
similar electrical equipment. If your panel does not meet these standards, have it relocated by a

professional.
Use wire connectors rated for the wires you are connecting. Wire connectors are color-coded by size,
but the coding scheme varies according to manufacturer. The wire connectors shown above come from

one major manufacturer. To ensure safe connections, each connector is rated for both minimum and

maximum wire capacity. These connectors can be used to connect both conducting wires and grounding

wires. Green wire connectors are used only for grounding wires.

SPLICING WIRES
1. Splice (join) wires using only listed devices such as appropriate-sized
wire connectors. Use wire connector according to manufacturer’s
recommendations regarding the minimum and maximum number and
size of wires that the connector can accommodate.
2. Cover spliced wires with material equal to the original insulation. This
does not include electrical tape or similar materials.
3. For splice wires that will be buried in the ground, use only devices
listed for direct burial and install them according to manufacturer’s
instructions.
4. Provide access to spliced wires, unless the splice and splicing device are
specifically allowed to be concealed. Access is usually provided by an
accessible, covered junction box.
5. Do not place wire splices in a raceway unless the raceway has a
removable cover.
Twist wire connectors over the ends of individual conductors that have been stripped of insulation.
Pre-twist wires together with pliers or linesmans’ pliers (optional). Do not leave bare wire exposed

beneath bottom of connector.

Push-in connectors are a relatively new product for joining wires. Instead of twisting the bare wire
3
ends together, you strip off about /4" of insulation and insert them into a hole in the connector. The

connectors come with two to four holes sized for various gauge wires. These connectors are perfect for

inexperienced DIYers because they do not pull apart like a sloppy twisted connection can.

SPLICING ALUMINUM & COPPER WIRES

1. Splice (join) aluminum and copper wires together using devices listed
for splicing aluminum and copper wires. Look for a mark or label such
as AL/CU on the device or on the package for assurance that the device
is listed for splicing aluminum and copper wires. Some wire nuts sold
for residential use are not listed for splicing aluminum and copper
wires.
2. Use only inhibitors and antioxidant compounds that are approved for
splicing aluminum and copper wires. These materials should not
degrade or damage the wires, wire insulation, or equipment. Read and
follow manufacturer’s instructions.
LENGTH OF WIRES EXTENDING FROM BOXES
1. Extend wires at least three inches beyond the opening of any electrical
box, junction, or switch point, if the opening is less than eight inches in
any direction. This applies to most switch, receptacle, and light fixture
mounting boxes used in residential electrical systems.
2. Extend wires at least six inches beyond where the wires emerge from
the raceway or cable sheathing. Example: NM cable enters a single
residential switch box with one inch of intact sheathing (outer cover).
Begin the six inches measurement where the sheathing ends. The cable
should extend at least seven inches from the rear of the box. The NM
cable should also extend at least three inches beyond the outside edge of
the box.
Extend wires past the box opening at least 3".

CONNECTING WIRES TO TERMINALS

1. Remove insulation from wires and connect wires to terminals without
damaging the wire. Do not connect damaged wires to terminals.
Example: if you nick, damage, or cut strands from a stranded wire, cut
the wire back to where it is full size and use the full, undamaged wire.
2. Connect more than one wire to a terminal only if the terminal is
identified to accept multiple wires. Example: many panelboards require
one wire per terminal for the grounded (neutral) wires and allow two or
more same-gauge wires per terminal for the equipment grounding wires.
 Example: many circuit breakers allow only one hot (ungrounded) wire
per circuit breaker terminal.
3. Connect aluminum wires to terminals only if the terminal is identified to
accept aluminum wires.

VIOLATION! Do not connect multiple neutral or hot wires to a terminal unless specifically allowed
(neutral bus bar seen here has two neutral conductors connected to single terminal).
VIOLATION! Never connect multiple hot wires to the same terminal on circuit breakers or other
electrical devices unless specifically allowed by the manufacturer.

WIRE COLOR CODES

1. Use wires with white- or gray-colored insulation or wires with three
white stripes on other than green insulation as neutral (grounded) wires.
You may use wires with other than white or gray colored insulation as
neutral (grounded) wires if they are larger than #6 AWG and if you
mark them with a permanent white marking at all wire terminations.
2. Use wires with green-colored insulation or wires with green-colored
insulation and at least one yellow stripe as equipment grounding wires.
 You may use uninsulated (bare) wires as equipment grounding wires in
most circuits.
3. You may use any color other than white, gray, or green as hot
(ungrounded) wires. The common colors are red and black. You may
use a wire with white or gray insulation as a hot (ungrounded) wire if
the wire is part of a cable (such as NM) and if you permanently mark it
as a hot (ungrounded) conductor at all places where the wire is visible
and accessible. This marking is usually done by wrapping the end of the
wire with black or red electrical tape.
NEUTRAL & EQUIPMENT GROUNDING WIRE CONTINUITY
1. Connect neutral (grounded) wires together in device boxes if the neutral
(grounded) wire is part of a multiwire branch circuit. Do not rely on any
device, such as a receptacle or light fixture, to provide the connection
for the neutral (grounded) wire in a multiwire branch circuit.
2. Connect equipment grounding wires together in all device boxes. Do
not rely on any device, such as a receptacle or light fixture, to provide
the connection for the equipment grounding wire in any circuit.
3. Install a wire (called a pigtail) between the connected wires and any
device in the box.

Use a pigtail when you need to connect multiple wires together and use one wire to connect to a
terminal.
 Wire Color Chart
WIRE COLOR FUNCTION
neutral wire: at zero voltage in many, but not
White all, circuits

hot wire carrying current at full current and

Black voltage

hot wire carrying current at full current and

Red voltage

hot wire carrying current at full current and

White, Black markings voltage

serves as a grounding pathway

Green

serves as a grounding pathway

Bare copper

Individual wires are color-coded to identify their function. In some circuit installations, the
white wire serves as a hot wire that carries voltage. If so, this white wire may be labeled with

black tape or paint to identify it as a hot wire.

 Wire Size Chart
WIRE GAUGE WIRE CAPACITY & USE
55 amps; central air conditioner, electric
#6 furnace

40 amps; electric range, central air conditioner

#8

30 amps; window air conditioner, clothes dryer

#10

20 amps; light fixtures, receptacles, microwave

#12 oven

15 amps; light fixtures, receptacles

#14

light-duty extension cords

#16

thermostats, doorbells, security systems

#18 to 22

Wire sizes (shown actual size) are categorized by the American Wire Gauge system. The larger
the wire size, the smaller the AWG number. Amp ratings in this chart assume that the wires are

contained in NM cable.
Shut off power at the main electrical service panel before beginning any work. In some cases you may
shut off individual circuits, but the safer precaution is always to throw the main breaker before starting

work.

Service & Main Service Panel

DISCONNECTING ELECTRICAL SERVICE
1. Provide equipment to disconnect all electrical service to a building
using not more than six circuit breakers or switches located in the same
area. The disconnecting equipment may be in one cabinet or in a group
of cabinets in the same general location. A person should be able to turn
off all electrical power to a building in not more than six hand motions
without moving from one position.
2. The service disconnecting equipment as such. The label must be
permanent and clearly marked.
3. Use only service disconnecting equipment listed and labeled for that
purpose. The electric meter and meter enclosure are not service
equipment. Do not rely on removing the electric meter to disconnect
electrical service.
4. The service disconnecting equipment should be installed in a readily
accessible place where every building occupant has access.
5. The service disconnecting equipment may be located outside the
building or inside the building as close as possible to where the service
entrance conductors enter the building. Check with the local building
official for information concerning your area. Fifteen feet is one typical
maximum, but the distance may be less in some jurisdictions.
6. Service disconnecting equipment should not be located in bathrooms.
7. Service disconnecting switches or circuit breakers should not be
installed more than 79 inches above the floor or ground.
A service disconnecting switch may be required when the main service panel is located too far from
the point where the service entrance conductors enter the house.
 Identifying Your Service

Aboveground service. In this common configuration, the service wires from the closest
transformer (called the service drop) are connected to the power distribution system in your

house through a protective hood called a weatherhead. The service entrance wires are routed to a

power meter that’s owned by your utility company but housed in a base that may be your

property. From the meter the entrance wires enter your house through the wall and are routed to

the main service panel, where they are connected to the service equipment. Other above ground

configurations are allowed.

Underground service lateral. Increasingly, homebuilders are choosing to have power supplied to
their new homes through underground service wires instead of an overhead service drop. Running

the wires in the ground eliminates problems with power outages caused by ice accumulation or

fallen trees, but it entails a completely different set of wire and conduit requirements. For the

homeowner, however, the differences are minimal because the hookups are identical once the

power service reaches the meter.

Inspect your service clearance to make sure individual service wires are not within 3 ft. from doors,
operable windows, and decks.

OVERHEAD SERVICE DROP WIRE CLEARANCES

1. Provide at least 3 feet clearance between service drop and service
entrance wires and porches, decks, stairs, ladders, fire escapes,
balconies, sides of doors, and sides and bottoms of operable windows
(not the tops of operable windows even if the top sash is operable).
Clearance is required only to service drops and service entrance wires
that consist of individual wires that are not protected by a raceway or
outer jacket. This means that clearances are usually required for utility
service drop wires and are not required for SE type service entrance
cable and for wires or cables installed in conduit or tubing.
2. Provide at least 8 feet vertical clearance between service drop wires and
a roof not designed for regular pedestrian traffic with a slope less than 4
 inches in 12 inches. Access to such a roof would usually be by a ladder,
through a window, or through a maintenance hatch.
3. You may reduce the 8 feet vertical clearance to at least 3 feet vertical
clearance if: (a) the voltage between wires is not more than (≤) 300
volts, and if (b) the roof is guarded or isolated; or if (c) the roof slope is
at least 4 inches in 12 inches. Many residential service drops comply
with this exception.
4. Provide at least 10 feet vertical clearance between service drop wires
and a roof designed for regular pedestrian traffic. Access to such a roof
would usually be by stairs or by a door and the roof edges would be
protected by a guard.
5. Provide at least 18 inches vertical clearance between service drop wires
and a roof if: (a) the wires pass only over the overhang portion of the
roof, and if (b) not more than 6 feet of wire pass over not more than 4
lineal feet of roof surface measured horizontally, and if (c) the wires
enter a through-the-roof mast or terminate at an approved support.
6. Maintain all required clearances above the roof for at least 3 feet in all
directions from the roof’s edge.
SERVICE DROP CLEARANCE ABOVE GROUND
1. Measure the vertical clearance between service drop wires and the
ground, walkway, driveway, or street beginning at the lowest point of
the service drop wires and ending at the surface under the wire’s lowest
point. The lowest point of the service drop wires is often at the drip
loop, but it could be at the point of attachment to the house or it could
be where the wires enter the house.
2. Provide at least 10 feet vertical clearance between service drop wires
and areas or sidewalks accessed by pedestrians only.
3. Provide at least 12 feet vertical clearance between service drop wires
and residential property and driveways.
4. Provide at least 18 feet vertical clearance between service drop wires
and public streets, alleys, roads, or parking areas subject to truck traffic.
 Safety Tip
If your electrical service entry does not conform to the codes, hire a
professional to update it.

The service drop must occur at least 10 ft. above ground level, and as much as 18 ft. in some cases.
Occasionally, this means that you must run the conduit for the service mast up through the eave of

your roof and seal the roof penetration with a boot.

Safe clearance between service drop wires and the ground.
 Electrical Grounding & Bonding

O ne of the important purposes of grounding and bonding can be

summarized in this simple rule: Electricity wants to return to its
source and will take all available paths to get there. When the
electrical system is working as intended, electricity enters through the hot
(ungrounded) wire, does its work, and returns to its source (usually the
utility’s transformer) through the neutral (grounded) wire.
When electricity finds its way out of the intended path, things get
dangerous. Example: a rat sits on copper water pipe and chews through the
insulation on electrical cable exposing the hot (ungrounded) wire. After
electrocuting the unfortunate rat, the exposed wire lands on the water pipe.
If the water pipe is connected without electrical interruption to the
electricity’s source (through bonding), the electricity thinks that the water
pipe is the neutral (grounded) wire and happily starts flowing through the
water pipe. This is a ground fault. The electric current should quickly rise to
the point where it trips a circuit breaker or blows a fuse, clearing the fault.
But what if the water pipe is not bonded? Perhaps a water softener has
been added to the system interrupting the electrical continuity of some or all
of the water pipe. In our example, the water pipe is still energized but there
is no way for the electricity to return to its source; that is, until someone
grabs a metal water faucet handle and is standing on the ground or on some
conducting surface. At that time, the electricity finds its path to its source
through the person. The person is injured or killed.
When trying to understand grounding and bonding, think like electricity.
If metal can become energized, however unlikely that is, you must assume
that it will become energized. Bonding metal together and connecting the
metal to ground in an approved manner lets you, not the electricity, decide
how electricity will flow in a fault condition.
Normal current flow: Current enters the electrical box along a black hot wire, then returns to the
service panel along a white neutral wire.
Ground fault: Current is detoured by a loose wire in contact with the metal box. The grounding wire
picks it up and channels it safely back to the main service panel where the circuit breaker trips or the

fuse blows.
 Inspect Electrical Panels for Proper Grounding
GROUNDING & BONDING AT SERVICE PANELS AND SUBPANELS
1. The neutral (grounded) wire should be connected to the grounding
electrode wire at the nearest accessible point at or before the service
equipment (main disconnect). The service equipment is usually the most
convenient accessible grounding point because the meter enclosure and
points before it are usually locked or secured and not accessible. The
grounding electrode wire connects the neutral (grounded) wire to a
grounding electrode.
2. The neutral (grounded) wire should not be connected to ground at any
other place downstream from the service equipment grounding point.
An exception to this rule exists when two buildings are supplied by one
electric service.
3. All metal parts of the electrical system should be connected to the
neutral (grounded) wire. This includes service equipment and
panelboard cases, any metal electrical conduit or tubing, and all metal
pipes in the building (such as metal water and gas pipe).
The neutral and grounding wires should not be connected to the same bus in most subpanels. The
grounding bus should be bonded to the subpanel cabinet. The neutral bus should not be bonded to the

subpanel cabinet.

Metallic conduit must be physically and electrically connected to panel cabinets. A bonding bushing
may be required, in some cases, where all of a knockout is not removed.
Parts of a common electrical service configuration.

SERVICE GROUNDING AT TWO BUILDINGS USING FOUR-WIRE FEEDER

1. Use this procedure when installing a new feeder cable to a second
building from the building with the primary electric service. (a) Install a
feeder cable to the second building that contains an equipment
grounding wire. Use a #10 copper equipment grounding wire for feeders
above 20 amps to 60 amps or less. (b) Install a grounding electrode at
both buildings. (c) Connect the feeder cable equipment grounding wire
to the grounding electrode wire at the second building subpanel
grounding bus. Connect all second building branch circuit equipment
grounding wires to the grounding bus. (d) Bond the subpanel case to the
grounding bus. (e) Connect the feeder cable neutral (grounded) wire to
an isolated grounded bus at the second building subpanel. Do not
connect the grounded bus to the subpanel case or to the grounding bus.
2. You are not required to use this procedure if there is only one branch
circuit in the second building and if the new feeder cable for that one
branch circuit contains an equipment grounding wire.
Wiring diagram for wiring a feeder from the main service panel to a subpanel in a separate building.

Grounding Electrodes & Electrode Wires

GENERAL REQUIREMENTS
1. Every electrical service should be provided at least one approved type
of grounding electrode. The most common grounding electrodes are
underground metal water pipe, driven rod and pipe, and concrete
encased.
2. All grounding electrodes that may be available at a building should be
bonded together. General codes do not require that all possible types of
grounding electrodes be installed. They require that if a grounding
electrode is installed, it must be connected (bonded) to all other
grounding electrodes and to the neutral (grounded) wire.
3. A bonding jumper at least as large as the grounding electrode wire
should be used to connect (bond) the grounding electrodes. Bonding
jumpers may be connected between grounding electrodes at any
convenient point.
4. The grounding electrode wire may be connected at any convenient
grounding electrode.
5. Metal gas pipe should never be used as a grounding electrode.
UNDERGROUND WATER PIPE ELECTRODES
1. Use metal underground water pipe that is in contact with the ground for
at least 10 feet as a grounding electrode. This includes all metal water
pipe materials such as copper and steel. This includes all metal water
pipes such as water service pipes, metal well casing pipe, and metal
irrigation system pipes.
2. You must consider all underground water pipe that satisfies the previous
conditions as a grounding electrode and connect (bond) underground
water pipe to all other grounding electrodes.
3. Do not connect a grounding electrode wire to any interior metal water
pipe at a point that is more than 5 feet from where the underground
water pipe enters the building. Do not use any interior metal water pipe
that is more than 5 feet from where the water pipe enters the building as
a conductor for a grounding electrode. Example: do not connect the
grounding electrode wire at a water heater cold water pipe if the pipe is
more than 5 feet from where the water pipe enters the building.
4. Do not use underground metal water pipe as the only grounding
electrode. Install at least one other type of grounding electrode and
connect (bond) it to the underground metal water pipe.
5. Install bonding jumper wires around devices that might interrupt
electrical continuity. Such devices include water meters, water pressure
reducers, water softeners, and water filtration systems.
ROD & PIPE ELECTRODES
1. You may use metal pipe or conduit that is at least 3/4-inch diameter and
is at least 8 feet long as a grounding electrode. Use galvanized materials
or other corrosion-resistant coating on iron and steel pipes.
2. You may use a stainless steel, zinc-coated steel, or copper rod that is at
least 5/8-inch diameter and is at least 8 feet long as a grounding
electrode.
3. You may use a listed stainless steel or non-ferrous (such as copper) rod
that is at least 8 feet long as a grounding electrode.
4. Do not use aluminum as rod and pipe electrodes.
5. Do not use one rod or pipe electrode as the only grounding electrode.
Install at least one other grounding electrode of any approved type.
Bond all grounding electrodes together. This provision does not apply if
 the rod or pipe electrode has a resistance to earth of not more than 25
ohms.

A piece of reinforcing bar encased in a concrete footing is a common grounding electrode in new
construction. Called a ufer, the electrode must be No. 4 or larger rebar and at least 20 ft. long. (Shown

prior to pouring concrete.)

CONCRETE ENCASED ELECTRODES
1. You may use at least 1/2-inch diameter reinforcing bar or at least #4
AWG bare copper wire as a concrete encased grounding electrode. The
electrode material must be at least 20 feet long. Do not use reinforcing
bar that is not electrically conductive or that is coated in non-conductive
material.
2. Encase the reinforcing bar or wire in at least 2 inches of concrete. Place
the bar or wire in either the horizontal or vertical part of the concrete
that is in direct contact with the ground. Do not place a moisture barrier
between the concrete and the ground.
3. You may use wire ties or similar means to connect (bond) reinforcing
bars together to achieve the 20 feet minimum length.
4. Concrete encased electrodes are also called ufer grounding electrodes
after the man who designed this grounding electrode system.

Grounding Electrode Wire Installation

ALUMINUM GROUNDING ELECTRODE WIRES
1. Do not use aluminum or copper-clad aluminum grounding electrode
wires if the wire is in direct contact with masonry or with the ground or
if the wire is in a corrosive environment.
2. Do not install aluminum or copper-clad aluminum grounding electrode
wires within 18 inches of the ground when the wire is installed outside.
CONNECTING GROUNDING ELECTRODE WIRES TO THE ELECTRODE
1. Use one of the following methods to connect grounding electrode wires
to grounding electrodes: (a) a pipe fitting, pipe plug or other approved
device screwed into a pipe or pipe fitting, or (b) a listed bolted clamp
made of cast bronze or brass, or plain or malleable iron.
2. You may use a listed metal strap ground clamp to connect indoor
communications equipment grounding electrode wires to a grounding
electrode.
3. Make accessible the connection point of grounding electrode wires and
bonding jumpers to grounding electrodes. The connection point need
not be accessible for buried or concrete encased grounding electrodes.
 4. Clean grounding electrode wire connection points and all clamps and
fittings of non-conductive materials such as paint.
5. Use ground clamps or fittings that are either approved for installation
without physical protection or that are protected by enclosing them in
metal, wood or an equivalent protective cover.
CONNECTIONS AROUND EQUIPMENT AND INSULATED FITTINGS
1. Install bonding jumpers around equipment such as water meters,
pressure reducing valves, water softeners, water filtration equipment,
dielectric fittings and other equipment and fittings that interrupt the
electrical continuity of metal piping used as a grounding electrode.
2. Make bonding jumpers long enough to permit removal of the equipment
and maintain electrical continuity.
3. Use bonding jumpers that are at least the same wire size as the
grounding electrode wire.

A listed metal strap may be used to ground indoor communication wires such as telephone and cable
TV.
METAL WATER PIPE BONDING
1. Connect (bond) interior metal water pipes to the service equipment
enclosure, or to the neutral (grounded) wire at the service equipment, or
to the grounding electrode conductor, or to any grounding electrode.
2. Use a bonding jumper or wire that is at least the same wire size as the
grounding electrode wire.
3. Make the bonding connection point accessible.
METAL GAS PIPE BONDING
1. Connect (bond) interior metal gas pipes and other metal pipes to the
service equipment enclosure, or to the neutral (grounded) wire at the
service equipment, or to the grounding electrode conductor, or to any
grounding electrode.
2. You may use the equipment grounding wire that serves the gas
appliance as the bonding wire. Number 10 AWG copper wire is the
largest equipment grounding wire for almost all residential branch
circuits. This means that: (a) a separate bonding wire between the gas
pipe and the service equipment is usually not necessary (although some
jurisdictions require one anyway), and (b) #10 AWG copper wire is
usually the largest required gas pipe bonding wire.
3. Make the bonding connection point accessible.
BONDING CORRUGATED STAINLESS STEEL GAS TUBING
1. Install a #6 AWG copper bonding wire on gas supply systems using
corrugated stainless steel gas tubing (CSST). Limit the length of the
wire to not more than 75 feet. This bonding connection is for lightning
protection.
2. Install the bonding wire at the first length of steel or copper pipe before
the CSST. This is usually at the gas meter or where the propane pipe
enters the home.
3. One manufacturer of 1 type of CSST does not require this bonding
connection. Verify CSST bonding requirements using manufacturer’s
instructions and by contacting your building inspector.
 Electrical Branch Circuit Requirements

E very electrical circuit has its limits. Among the more basic tasks in
evaluating your existing wiring system or planning a system expansion
is to identify which loads will be drawing from which circuits so you
can establish what each circuit capacity will need to be. In addition to
letting you plan the circuits wisely, specific load knowledge lets you create
a more balanced service panel, lessening the chances that you’ll trip
breakers.

Planning a code-compliant branch circuit starts with calculating the amount of load you expect the
circuit to draw.

Branch Circuit Load Limits

15-AMP & 20-AMP CIRCUITS
1. Use only 15-amp and 20-amp, 120-volt circuits for multiple outlet
branch circuits. A multiple outlet branch circuit has more than one light
fixture and/or receptacle on the same circuit. One duplex receptacle (the
common receptacle with two openings for plugs)counts as two
receptacles. A circuit that serves one duplex receptacle is a multiple
outlet branch circuit. This provision does not apply to a circuit that
serves one single receptacle or one single light fixture.
 2. Use only 120-volt branch circuits to supply residential light fixtures,
and to supply receptacles for plug-and-cord connected loads not more
than 1,440 watts, and to supply motor loads less than .25 horsepower.
3. You may use either 120- or 240-volt branch circuits to supply one plug-
and-cord connected or one permanently wired appliance rated more than
1,440 watts. This means that branch circuits rated more than 120 volts
are effectively limited to serving a single receptacle or permanently
wired fixed equipment.
4. Do not connect one plug-and-cord device that exceeds 80 percent of a
multiple outlet branch circuit’s amperage rating. This means that one
device (such as a vacuum cleaner or a toaster oven) may not exceed 12
amps (about 1,440 watts) on a 15-amp multiple outlet branch circuit and
may not exceed 16 amps (about 1,920 watts) on a 20-amp multiple
outlet branch circuit.
5. Do not connect one or more fixed devices that in total exceed 50 percent
of a multiple outlet branch circuit’s amperage rating. Fixed devices do
not include light fixtures. This means that that all fixed devices (such as
a permanently wired disposal or hot water circulating pump) on a
multiple outlet branch circuit may not exceed 7.5 amps (about 900
watts) on a 15-amp multiple outlet branch circuit and may not exceed
10 amps (about 1,200 watts) on a 20-amp multiple outlet branch circuit.

A duplex receptacle (A) contains two outlets. A single receptacle (B) contains one outlet.
30-AMP CIRCUITS
1. Do not connect one plug-and-cord device that exceeds 80 percent of a
30-amp branch circuit’s amperage rating. This means that one device
(such as a clothes dryer) may not exceed 24 amps (about 5,760 watts)
on a 30-amp, 240-volt branch circuit.
2. Do not use a 30-amp branch circuit to serve loads other than a fixed
device such as a water heater or a single plug-and-cord connected
device such as a welder.

Safety Tip
Always work with your local electrical inspector and an experienced
wiring installer when adding electrical circuits.

ROOM AIR CONDITIONER CIRCUITS

1. Use wires that are rated at least 125 percent of a window or through-
wall air conditioner’s total rated current load if: (a) the air conditioner is
connected to a receptacle by a plug-and-cord, and if (b) the air
conditioner’s total rated current load is shown on its nameplate (not just
the individual motor load), and if (c) the air conditioner’s total rated
current load on the nameplate is not more than 40 amps and 250 volts,
and if (d) the branch circuit overcurrent protection device does not
exceed the branch circuit wire ampacity rating and the ampacity rating
of the receptacle. Example: a plug-and-cord connected room air
conditioner’s total rated current load is 17 amps. Use wires rated for
1.25 times 17 amps equals 21.25 amps (#10 copper wire).
2. Do not install a window or through-wall air conditioner on a 15- or a
20-amp multiple outlet branch circuit if the air conditioner’s total rated
current load is more than 50 percent of the branch circuit’s rating (80
percent for dedicated circuits).
KITCHEN SMALL APPLIANCE CIRCUITS
1. Provide at least two 20-amp, 120-volt branch circuits to serve only
receptacles in the kitchen, pantry, breakfast and dining areas, and
similar rooms. You may use the kitchen receptacle circuits to power a
refrigerator, a wall clock, and the electrical requirements for gas
cooking equipment. You may not use the kitchen branch circuits to
supply light fixtures or other outlets in these rooms, and you may
not use the kitchen branch circuits to supply outlets in other rooms.

Air-conditioner load ratings can be found on the nameplate.

BATHROOM RECEPTACLE CIRCUIT
1. Provide at least one 20-amp, 120-volt branch circuit to serve only
receptacles located in the bathroom(s). You may not use the bathroom
branch circuit to supply light fixtures or other outlets in the bathroom,
and you may not use the bathroom branch circuit to supply outlets in
other rooms.
2. You may provide each bathroom with its own dedicated 20-amp, 120-
volt branch circuit. In this case, you may use the branch circuit to
supply other bathroom outlets, such as light fixtures and exhaust fans.

An electric clothes dryer requires a separate, dedicated circuit (usually 240-volt, 30-amp).
LAUNDRY RECEPTACLE CIRCUIT
1. Provide at least one 20-amp, 120-volt branch circuit to serve only
receptacles located in the laundry area. You may not use the laundry
branch circuit to supply light fixtures or other outlets in the laundry, and
you may not use the laundry branch circuit to supply outlets in other
rooms. Electric clothes dryers require a dedicated 240-volt, 30-amp
circuit.
MULTIWIRE BRANCH CIRCUITS
1. Run multiwire branch circuit wires from adjacent slots on the same
panelboard. It is safer to originate a multiwire branch circuit from
adjacent slots on the same side of the panelboard. This helps avoid
overloading the shared neutral (grounded) wire.
2. Use a two-pole overcurrent device or two single pole devices that are
connected by an approved handle tie to protect most multiwire branch
circuits. Do not connect circuit breaker handles with nails, wires, or
other unapproved handle tie substitutes.
3. Use wire ties or similar devices to group all ungrounded (hot) and
grounded (neutral) wires of each multiwire branch circuit in the cabinet
where the circuit originates.
The receptacle yoke is removed (A) when it is split-wired using a multiwire branch circuit.
Connect both handles of circuit breakers protecting a multiwire branch circuit with an approved
handle tie.

Quantity of Receptacles on a Branch Circuit

A widely held belief exists that the IRC limits the number of
receptacles on a residential branch circuit. This belief is incorrect. The
IRC only requires that the number of branch circuits is sufficient to
supply the connected load and that the load on any branch circuit does
not exceed the IRC limits. This belief may come from restrictions on
the number of outlets (both lights and receptacles) allowed for
commercial electrical circuits. Commercial applications allow about 13
outlets on a 20-amp circuit and about 10 outlets on a 15-amp circuit.
Wiring residential general lighting branch circuits based on these
commercial outlet limits is often a good idea but is not required by the
IRC.

Current Wiring Methods

Table 42 lists the wiring methods currently allowed in residential
construction. Note that certain wiring methods may not be used in
certain applications.
APPROVED USES FOR WIRING METHODS
1. Table 43 lists when a wiring method may be used in a specific
application. Note that some wiring methods have restrictions or
limitations shown by the following superscripts: (1) use less than six
feet of LFC if the conduit walls are not reinforced, (2) insulate the
neutral (grounded) wire unless the cable is used to supply other
buildings on the same property, (3) insulate the neutral (grounded) wire,
(4) use wires approved for wet locations and seal raceways to prevent
water entry, (5) use materials listed as sunlight resistant, (6) protect
metal raceways from corrosion, (7) use Schedule 80 RNC, (8) use
materials listed as sunlight resistant if exposed to direct sunlight, (9) use
less than six feet of conduit.
 Table 42: Current Wiring Methods
WIRING METHOD ABBREVIATION
Armored cable AC
Electrical metallic tubing EMT
Electrical nonmetallic tubing ENT
Flexible metal conduit FMC
Intermediate metal conduit IMC
Liquidtight flexible conduit LFC
Metal-clad cable MC
Nonmetallic sheathed cable NM
Rigid nonmetallic conduit RNC
Rigid metallic conduit RMC
Service entrance cable SE
Surface raceways SR
Underground feeder cable UF
Underground service cable USE
Table 43: Current Wiring Methods Allowed Uses

ALLOWED APPLICATION Service entrance

AC NO
EMT OK
ENT OK8
FMC OK9
IMC RMC RNC OK
LFC1 OK9
MC OK
NM NO
SR NO
SE OK
UF NO
USE OK

ALLOWED APPLICATION Feeder

AC OK
EMT OK
ENT OK
FMC OK
IMC RMC RNC OK
LFC1 OK
MC OK
NM OK
SR NO
SE OK2
UF OK
USE OK2

ALLOWED APPLICATION Branch circuits

AC OK
EMT OK
ENT OK
FMC OK
IMC RMC RNC OK
LFC1 OK
MC OK
NM OK
SR OK
SE OK3
UF OK
USE NO

ALLOWED APPLICATION Indoors (e.g., in stud walls)

AC OK
EMT OK
ENT OK
FMC OK
IMC RMC RNC OK
LFC1 OK
MC OK
NM OK
SR OK
SE OK
UF OK
USE NO

ALLOWED APPLICATION Wet locations & exposed to sunlight

AC NO
EMT OK
ENT OK8
FMC OK4
IMC RMC RNC OK
LFC1 OK
MC OK
NM NO
SR NO
SE OK
UF OK5
USE OK5

ALLOWED APPLICATION Damp locations

AC NO
EMT OK
ENT OK
FMC OK4
IMC RMC RNC OK
LFC1 OK
MC OK
NM NO
SR NO
SE OK
UF OK
USE OK

ALLOWED APPLICATION Embedded in concrete in dry location

AC NO
EMT OK
ENT OK
FMC NO
IMC RMC RNC OK
LFC1 NO
MC NO
NM NO
SR NO
SE NO
UF NO
USE NO

ALLOWED APPLICATION Embedded in concrete below grade

AC NO
EMT OK6
ENT OK
FMC NO
IMC RMC RNC OK6
LFC1 NO
MC NO
NM NO
SR NO
SE NO
UF NO
USE NO

ALLOWED APPLICATION Embedded in plaster in dry location

AC OK
EMT OK
ENT OK
FMC OK
IMC RMC RNC OK
LFC1 OK
MC OK
NM NO
SR NO
SE OK
UF OK
USE NO

ALLOWED APPLICATION Embedded in masonry

AC NO
EMT OK
ENT OK
FMC NO
IMC RMC RNC OK6
LFC1 OK
MC OK
NM NO
SR NO
SE NO
UF NO
USE NO
ALLOWED APPLICATION In masonry voids & cellsin damp location or
below grade
AC NO
EMT OK6
ENT OK
FMC OK4
IMC RMC RNC OK6
LFC1 OK
MC OK
NM NO
SR NO
SE OK
UF OK
USE NO

ALLOWED APPLICATION Fished in masonry voids

AC OK
EMT NO
ENT NO
FMC OK
IMC RMC RNC NO
LFC1 OK
MC OK
NM OK
SR NO
SE OK
UF OK
USE NO

ALLOWED APPLICATION In masonry voids & cells in dry location

AC OK
EMT OK
ENT OK
FMC OK
IMC RMC RNC OK
LFC1 OK
MC OK
NM OK
SR NO
SE OK
UF OK
USE NO

ALLOWED APPLICATION Exposed not subject to damage

AC OK
EMT OK
ENT OK
FMC OK
IMC RMC RNC OK
LFC1 OK
MC OK
NM OK
SR OK
SE OK
UF OK
USE OK

ALLOWED APPLICATION Exposed subject to damage

AC NO
EMT NO
ENT NO
FMC NO
IMC RMC RNC OK7
LFC1 NO
MC NO
NM NO
SR NO
SE NO
UF NO
USE NO
 ALLOWED APPLICATION Direct burial
AC NO
EMT OK6
ENT NO
FMC NO
IMC RMC RNC OK6
LFC1 OK
MC OK6
NM NO
SR NO
SE NO
UF OK
USE NO

RULES FOR NM AND UF CABLE

1. Use Table 44 to determine the maximum ampacity and overcurrent
protection of NM and UF cable. NM and UF cable is often referred to
by the trade name Romex. This table will apply to almost all branch
circuit and feeder wiring in modern residential electrical systems.
Example: the maximum rating for a circuit breaker protecting Number
12 copper wire is 20 amps.
Table 44: NM and UF Cable Maximum Ampacity

WIRE SIZE (AWG) 14

COPPER WIRE (AMPS) 15
ALUMINUM WIRE (AMPS) --

WIRE SIZE (AWG) 12

COPPER WIRE (AMPS) 20
ALUMINUM WIRE (AMPS) 15

WIRE SIZE (AWG) 10

COPPER WIRE (AMPS) 30
ALUMINUM WIRE (AMPS) 25

WIRE SIZE (AWG) 8

COPPER WIRE (AMPS) 40
ALUMINUM WIRE (AMPS) 30

WIRE SIZE (AWG) 6

COPPER WIRE (AMPS) 55
ALUMINUM WIRE (AMPS) 40

WIRE SIZE (AWG) 4

COPPER WIRE (AMPS) 70
ALUMINUM WIRE (AMPS) 55

WIRE SIZE (AWG) 3

COPPER WIRE (AMPS) 85
ALUMINUM WIRE (AMPS) 65

WIRE SIZE (AWG) 2

COPPER WIRE (AMPS) 95
ALUMINUM WIRE (AMPS) 75

WIRE SIZE (AWG) 1

COPPER WIRE (AMPS) 110
ALUMINUM WIRE (AMPS) 85
Table 45: Maximum Hole or Notch Size in Studs
and Joists
FRAMING MEMBER 2 × 4 load-bearing stud
MAXIMUM HOLE SIZE 1 7/16" diameter
MAXIMUM NOTCH SIZE 7/8" deep

FRAMING MEMBER 2 × 4 nonload-bearing stud

MAXIMUM HOLE SIZE 2 1/8" diameter
MAXIMUM NOTCH SIZE 1 7/16" deep

FRAMING MEMBER 2 × 6 load-bearing stud

MAXIMUM HOLE SIZE 2 1/4" diameter
MAXIMUM NOTCH SIZE 1 3/8" deep

FRAMING MEMBER 2 × 6 nonload-bearing stud

MAXIMUM HOLE SIZE 3 5/16" diameter
MAXIMUM NOTCH SIZE 2 3/16" deep

FRAMING MEMBER 2 × 6 joists

MAXIMUM HOLE SIZE 1 7/8" diameter
MAXIMUM NOTCH SIZE 7/8" deep

FRAMING MEMBER 2 × 8 joists

MAXIMUM HOLE SIZE 2 3/8" diameter
MAXIMUM NOTCH SIZE 1 1/4" deep

FRAMING MEMBER 2 × 10 joists

MAXIMUM HOLE SIZE 3 1/16" diameter
MAXIMUM NOTCH SIZE 1 1/2" deep

FRAMING MEMBER 2 × 12 joists

MAXIMUM HOLE SIZE 3 3/4" diameter
MAXIMUM NOTCH SIZE 1 7/8" deep
 This framing member chart shows the maximum sizes for holes and notches that can be cut into
5
studs and joists when running cables. When boring holes, there must be at least /8" of wood

between the edge of a stud and the hole, and at least 2" between the edge of a joist and the hole.

Joists can be notched only in the end 1/3 of the overall span, never in the middle 1/3 of the joist.

Rigid metal conduit has threaded ends for making watertight connections with female-threaded
fittings and couplings.
Electrical nonmetallic tubing (A) may be used inside, and outside if it is rated as sunlight resistant.
Liquid-tight flexible conduit can be non-metallic (B) or it can be metallic conduit with a non-metallic

sheath (C).
Non-metallic sheathed cable is available in the most common gauges used in residential construction.

NM & UF CABLE INSTALLATION

1. Use NM and UF cable where the cable is not subject to physical
damage. The term “subject to physical damage” is undefined and
subject to interpretation. Your local building inspector will define what
this means in your area. Locations that may be considered subject to
physical damage include those within easy reach. Examples may
include inside cabinets, in unfinished walls, and attached to finished
walls below about 7 feet above the floor. Cable run in attics and
crawlspaces is not usually considered subject to physical damage.
2. Protect NM and UF cable using RMC, IMC, EMT, or Schedule 80 RNC
when the cable is subject to physical damage. Extend the protection at
least six inches above the floor when the cable runs through the floor.
3. Protect NM and UF cable using nail guards or other approved physical
protection when the cable is installed: (a) through holes, notches, or
grooves that are closer than 1 1/4 inches to the edge of a stud or joist, (b)
in notches and grooves in places such as drywall, plaster, and under
 carpet, unless the groove or notch is deeper than 1 1/4 inches, (c)
through holes in metal framing (use grommets or bushings), and (d)
parallel to the edge of a stud, joist, or furring strip when the cable is
closer than 1 1/4 inches to the edge of the framing member.
4. Support NM, UF, AC, and MC cable every 4 1/2 feet. Use wire staples
or other approved fasteners to support vertical runs of NM, UF, AC, and
MC cable. Staple the cable only on the flat edge. Note that wiring
methods need not always be secured to be considered supported. Cable
run across the tops of joists and truss chords is usually considered
supported without being secured to the joists. Cable must be secured to
be considered supported when it is run vertically and when it is run on
the sides and bottoms of framing members.
5. Secure NM and UF cable not more than 8 inches from boxes and
terminations that do not have cable clamps. This includes most plastic
boxes. Secure NM and UF cable not more than 12 inches from boxes
and terminations that have cable clamps. This includes most metal
boxes. Measure the support distance from where the cable sheathing
ends in the box, not from the box itself.
6. Use NM cable only in dry locations that are indoors and not within
concrete or masonry that is exposed to the ground. Do not use NM cable
in conduit that is buried in the ground. Buried conduit is considered a
wet location. You may use UF cable in wet locations including outdoors
and underground if it is not subject to damage.
VIOLATION! Do not install NM and UF cable inside cabinets.
VIOLATION! Do not install NM and UF cable in exposed walls and ceilings. You may install NM and UF
cable in exposed basement ceilings and attics under certain conditions.
Support NM and UF cable at least every 4 1/2 ft. Cable on top of ceiling joists is considered supported.
VIOLATION! Do not install NM cable outdoors. Outdoors includes buried conduit. You may install UF
cable outdoors if it is protected from physical damage.
Secure NM and UF cable within 8" from where the cable enters or leaves a plastic box. Measure from
where the cable sheathing ends in the box, not from the edge of the box.
CONDUIT & TUBING INSTALLATION
1. Apply the following installation requirements to EMT, IMC, RMC,
ENT, FMC, LFC, and RNC: (a) limit the number of 90-degree bends
between junction boxes to not more than four, (b) install bushings where
conduit or tubing enters a box, fitting, or enclosure, unless the device
provides equivalent protection against damage to any wires that may be
pulled into the device, (c) remove rough edges from the ends of all
conduit and tubing that may damage wires, (d) support EMT, IMC, and
RMC not more than every 10 feet and within three feet of junction
boxes or terminations, (e) support ENT not more than every three feet,
unless the ENT is in an accessible ceiling, such as a drop ceiling, and if
the distance between light fixtures is not more than six feet, and (f)
support FMC and LFC not more than every 4 1/2 feet and within 12
inches of junction boxes and terminations, unless the FMC and LFC is
in an accessible ceiling, such as a drop ceiling, and if the distance
between light fixtures is not more than six feet.
2. You may allow not more than 36 inches between the last support and a
light fixture or other equipment that may need to be moved for service
or replacement.
WIRING SUPPORT REQUIREMENTS
1. Table 46 lists the on-center support requirements for wiring methods.
Note that some wiring methods have special requirements shown by the
following superscripts: (1) support is not required in accessible ceilings,
such as drop ceilings, if the distance between light fixtures is not more
than six feet, (2) you may allow not more than 24 inches between the
last support and a light fixture or other equipment that may need to be
moved for service or replacement, (3) you may allow not more than 36
inches between the last support and a light fixture or other equipment
that may need to be moved for service or replacement, (4) support NM
and UF cable not more than eight inches from boxes and terminations
that do not have cable clamps. This includes most plastic boxes.
Measure the support distance from where the cable sheathing ends in
the box, not from the box itself, (5) support NM and UF cable not more
than 12 inches from boxes and terminations that have cable clamps.
This includes most metal boxes. (6) support RNC not more than five
feet for conduit sizes more than one inch.
Table 46: Wiring Methods Support
Maximum support spacing
AC 4.51 ft.
MC 61 ft.
EMT IMC RMC 10 ft.
ENT 31 ft.
FMC LFC 4.51 ft.
NM UF 4.5 ft.
RNC 36 ft.
SE USE (SERVICE) 2.5 ft.
SE (BRANCH CIRCUIT OR INDOOR 4.5 ft.
FEEDER)

Maximum support distance to box or

termination (inches)
AC 121,2 ft.
MC 121,2 ft.
EMT IMC RMC 36 in.
ENT 36 in.
FMC LFC 121,3 in.
NM UF 84 -125 in.
RNC 36 in.
SE USE (SERVICE) 12 in.
SE (BRANCH CIRCUIT OR INDOOR 12 in.
FEEDER)
Use wood or other substantial guards to protect NM and UF cable installed perpendicular to rafters
within the protection area.
Use wood or other substantial guards to protect NM and UF cable installed on top of ceiling joists
within the protection area.

WIRING PROTECTION IN ATTICS

1. Protect electrical cables in accessible attics by using substantial guard
strips that are at least as tall as the electrical cables when: (a) access to
the attic is by permanent stairs or ladders (such as a pull-down attic
ladder), and the cables are within seven feet vertically from the top of
attic floor joists or truss bottom chords, or the cables run across the face
(shortest dimension) of rafters, studs, or truss webs or chords, or (b)
access to the attic is by scuttle hole or similar opening and the cables
described in (a) are within six feet horizontally from the nearest point of
the attic access opening.
2. You need not protect electrical cables in accessible attics when the
cables are installed: (a) running parallel to the edge of the framing and
 at least 1 1/4 inches from the edge of the framing, or (b) in holes that are
at least 1 1/4 inches from the edge of the framing.

Basement Ceilings: Running Boards

A running board is a board, such as a 1 × 6, attached to the bottoms of
the basement ceiling joists to create a mounting surface for NM and UF
cables containing wires #10 AWG and smaller. You may not want to
use this method if you intend to finish the basement.

Protect exposed NM and UF cable installed in accessible attics and within the shaded protection area.
 Electrical Receptacle Installation

W hether you call them outlets, plug-ins, or receptacles, these

important devices represent the point where the rubber meets the
road in your home wiring system. From the basic 15-amp, 120-volt
duplex receptacle to the burly 50-amp, 240-volt appliance receptacle, the
many outlets in your home do pretty much the same thing: transmit power
to a load.
Learning the essential differences between receptacles does not take
long. Amperage is the main variable, as each receptacle must match the
amperage and voltage of the circuit in which it is installed. A 15-amp
circuit should be wired with 15-amp receptacles; a 20-amp circuit needs 20-
amp receptacles (identified by the horizontal slot that Ts into each tall
polarized slot). A 20-amp multi-receptacle circuit may use either 15- or 20-
amp receptacles. Receptacles for 240-volt service have unique slot
configurations so you can’t accidentally plug in an appliance that’s not rated
for the amperage in the circuit. Some receptacles can be wired using the
push-in wire holes, but this is not recommended. Some receptacles provide
built-in, ground-fault circuit protection, tripping the circuit breaker if there
is a short circuit or power surge. These are easy to identify by reset and test
buttons.
GENERAL RECEPTACLE INSTALLATION REQUIREMENTS
1. Use only grounding type (3-slot) receptacles on 15-amp and 20-amp
branch circuits.
2. Mount receptacles in boxes that are recessed from the wall by seating
the receptacle’s extension ears at the top and bottom of the receptacle
against the wall surface.
3. Mount receptacles in boxes that are flush with the wall by seating the
receptacle’s mounting yoke or strap against the box.
 4. Do not allow the receptacle to move when a plug is inserted. This can,
over time, cause wires to loosen, allow arcing, and cause a fire.
5. Install receptacle faceplates so that the plate completely covers the
receptacle and so that the faceplate is flush against the wall. No gaps
should exist between the receptacle and the faceplate and between the
faceplate and the wall.
6. Install receptacles so that the face of the receptacle is either flush with
or projects out from a nonmetallic faceplate.
7. Install receptacles so that the face of the receptacle projects out from a
metallic faceplate at least (≥) 1/64 inch.
8. Install receptacles so that the wiring terminals are not exposed to
physical contact.
TAMPER-RESISTANT RECEPTACLES
1. Install tamper-resistant receptacles in 120-volt, 15- and 20-amp general
purpose branch circuits. These receptacles usually have an opening that
moves to allow access to the receptacle. This requirement includes
interior and exterior receptacles unless an exception applies. This
requirement includes replacement of existing receptacles.
2. You do not need to install tamper-resistant receptacles if the receptacle:
(a) is located more than 66 inches above the floor, or (b) is part of a
light fixture or appliance, or (c) is a single or duplex dedicated
appliance receptacle into which one or two not easily movable
appliances will be plugged.
NON-GROUNDING TYPE RECEPTACLES
1. You may replace a non-grounding type receptacle (2-slot) with another
non-grounding type receptacle.
2. You may replace a non-grounding type receptacle (2-slot) with a
grounding type receptacle (3-slot) if: (a) the replacement receptacle is a
GFCI receptacle, and if (b) the cover plate is labeled “No Equipment
Ground.”
3. You may replace a non-grounding type receptacle (2-slot) with a
grounding type receptacle (3-slot) if: (a) the replacement receptacle is
supplied by a GFCI protected circuit, and if (b) the cover plate is
labeled “GFCI Protected and No Equipment Ground.”
 4. Use 1, 2, and 3 above only if no equipment grounding wire is available
in the receptacle box. You must use a grounding type receptacle and you
must use the equipment grounding wire if it is available.
5. Do not run an equipment grounding wire to any outlet downstream from
the replacement receptacle.
6. Do not connect the neutral wire to the receptacle grounding lug. These
“bootleg grounds” are a dangerous code violation.
RECEPTACLE INSTALLATION IN ROOMS
1. Apply these provisions to receptacles in living rooms, family rooms,
bedrooms, dens, sunrooms, recreation rooms, dining rooms, breakfast
rooms, libraries, and similar living areas. Kitchens, bathrooms,
hallways, garages, laundry rooms, and exterior receptacles have their
own installation requirements.
2. Install the required interior receptacles so that any point along a wall is
not more than six feet from a receptacle. Do not include operable doors,
fireplaces, closet interiors, and similar openings when measuring a wall.
A wall begins at the edge of an opening and continues around any
corners to the next opening. Walls include fixed (not sliding) panels in
doors that are at least two feet wide. Walls include partial height walls
that serve functions such as room dividers and walls that form breakfast
bars and similar bar-type counters. Walls include guards and railings at
balconies, raised floors, and other areas where furniture could be placed.
3. Locate floor receptacles intended to serve as required interior
receptacles not more than 18 inches from the wall. You may install
interior floor receptacles at any safe place, but you may count only
receptacles not more than 18 inches from the wall among the required
receptacles.
4. Install receptacles not more than 66 inches above the finished floor. You
may install receptacles at any height, but you may count only
receptacles not more than 66 inches above the finished floor among the
required receptacles.
Example of receptacle spacing requirements in a typical room. Measure receptacle spacing distance
along the wall line. Install receptacles along partial height walls and along balcony guards in lofts and

similar areas.

KITCHEN COUNTERTOP RECEPTACLE INSTALLATION

1. Install a GFCI protected receptacle at every kitchen countertop that is at
least 12 inches wide.
2. Install kitchen countertop receptacles so that all points along the
countertop wall are not more than two feet from a receptacle. A wall
begins at the edge of an opening or appliance and continues around any
corners and ends at the next opening or appliance. Include windows
when measuring the wall unless the window is above a sink or cooking
appliance.
3. Install receptacles behind a sink or cooking appliance located along a
straight wall if the countertop behind the sink or cooking appliance is at
least 12 inches wide. Install receptacles behind a sink or cooking
appliance located along a wall corner if the countertop behind the sink
or cooking appliance is at least 18 inches wide.
4. Install receptacles not more than 20 inches above the countertop. You
may install receptacles at any height, but you may include only
receptacles not more than 20 inches above the countertop among the
required kitchen countertop receptacles.
 5. Do not include among the required kitchen countertop receptacles: (a)
receptacles located in appliance garages, and (b) receptacles dedicated
for a fixed-in-place appliance, and (c) receptacles not readily accessible
for use by small appliances.
6. Do not install receptacles face up on work surfaces.

Example of countertop receptacle spacing in a typical kitchen.

VIOLATION! Running a pigtail from the neutral terminal to the grounding screw on a receptacle is
called a bootleg ground. It is usually done to make an ungrounded circuit appear to be grounded. It is

very dangerous.
You must install receptacles behind a short run of countertop if it is at least 12" wide along a straight
wall.
You must install receptacles behind a sink or cooking appliance if the countertop behind the sink or
cooking appliance is at least 18" wide in a corner cabinet.

KITCHEN ISLAND & PENINSULA RECEPTACLES WITHOUT A SINK OR COOKING APPLIANCE

1. Install at least one GFCI protected receptacle at every kitchen island and
peninsula that measures at least 24 inches by at least 12 inches. Measure
a peninsula from the interior connecting edge of the countertop.
2. Install kitchen countertop receptacles along any wall space above an
island or peninsula countertop. Such wall space occurs when an island
or peninsula is installed at a partial height wall.
3. You may install receptacles not more than 12 inches below an island or
peninsula countertop if the countertop is flat and there is no wall space
 above the countertop. Do not install the required kitchen island or
peninsula receptacle below a breakfast bar or other countertop that
extends more than six inches beyond the supporting base.
KITCHEN ISLAND AND PENINSULA RECEPTACLES WITH A SINK OR COOKING APPLIANCE
1. Install at least one GFCI protected receptacle not more than 24 inches
from each side of a sink or cooking appliance installed in a kitchen
island or peninsula.
2. Install receptacles behind a sink or cooking appliance if the countertop
behind the sink or cooking appliance is at least 12 inches wide or at
least 18 inches wide if the sink or cooking appliance is installed in a
corner.
3. Install kitchen countertop receptacles along any wall space above an
island or peninsula countertop. Such wall space occurs when an island
or peninsula is installed at a partial height wall.
4. You many install receptacles not more than 12 inches below an island or
peninsula countertop if the countertop is flat and there is no wall space
or cabinet above the countertop. Do not install the required kitchen
island or peninsula receptacles below a breakfast bar or other countertop
that extends more than 6 inches beyond the supporting base.
5. Do not install receptacles face up on counter tops and similar work
surfaces.
BATHROOM SINK RECEPTACLES
1. Install at least one GFCI protected receptacle not more than 36 inches
from the outside edge of each sink basin in a bathroom. You may install
the receptacle along a wall adjacent to the sink. An adjacent wall
usually means the wall on which the mirror is usually placed or on the
wall perpendicular to the “mirror wall.” You may also install the
receptacle on the side or face of the basin cabinet if the receptacle is not
more than 12 inches below the countertop. Receptacles in light fixtures
do not count as the required sink receptacle.
2. Do not install receptacles face up on work surfaces.
A GFCI protected receptacle must be installed within 36" of each bathroom sink basin.

LAUNDRY RECEPTACLES
1. Install at least one 20-amp, 120-volt receptacle in the laundry area. This
required receptacle usually serves the clothes washing machine. The
required laundry receptacle is in addition to any required garage or
basement receptacle if the laundry is in the garage or basement.
2. Provide GFCI protection for all 15 and 20 amp, 120 volt receptacles in
the laundry area. This includes any dedicated receptacle for the clothes
washing machine.
EXTERIOR RECEPTACLES
1. Install at least one GFCI protected, 15- or 20-amp, 120-volt receptacle
on the front and back exterior wall of every home. Locate the receptacle
so that it is accessible from grade level and is not more than 78 inches
above finished grade level.
2. Install at least one GFCI protected, 15- or 20-amp, 120-volt receptacle
within the perimeter of any balcony, deck, or porch that: (a) is
accessible from inside the home, and (b) has a usable area of at least 20
square feet.

An exterior-rated receptacle should be installed on both the front and back exterior walls of your
house.
BASEMENT RECEPTACLES
1. Install at least one GFCI protected, 15- or 20-amp, 120-volt receptacle
in an unfinished basement. Install at least one GFCI protected receptacle
in the unfinished part of a basement that is partially finished.
2. You are not required to provide GFCI protection to a receptacle that is
dedicated to serving a fire or security alarm system.
GARAGE AND ACCESSORY BUILDING RECEPTACLES
1. Install one GFCI protected, 15- or 20-amp receptacle for each motor
vehicle parking space in an attached garage and in a detached garage
that is supplied with electricity. You are not required to supply
electricity to detached garages and accessory buildings, but if you do
you must install a receptacle. Accessory buildings include work sheds,
storage sheds, tack sheds, barns, and similar buildings.
2. You may not serve any other outlets from the circuit serving garage
receptacles. This means that garage lights and exterior lights and
receptacles must be served by one or more separate circuits.
 Ground-fault (GFCI) & Arc-fault (AFCI)
Protection
GROUND-FAULT LOCATION REQUIREMENTS
1. Kitchen receptacles. Install ground-fault circuit interrupt (GFCI)
protection on all 120-volt receptacles that serve kitchen countertops.
This does not include receptacles under the kitchen sink, receptacles
located on kitchen walls that do not serve the countertop, and
receptacles that are not within six feet from a sink.
2. Kitchen. Install ground-fault circuit interrupt (GFCI) protection on the
outlets that supply dishwashing machines.
3. Bathroom receptacles. Install ground-fault circuit interrupt (GFCI)
protection on all 120-volt receptacles located in bathrooms. This applies
to all receptacles regardless of where they are located in the bathroom
and includes receptacles located at countertops, inside cabinets, and
along bathroom walls. This also applies to bathtubs and shower stalls
that are not located in a bathroom. Install ground-fault circuit interrupt
(GFCI) protection on all circuits serving electrically heated floors in
bathrooms, kitchens, and around whirlpool tubs, spas, and hot tubs.
4. Garage and Accessory Building receptacles. Install ground-fault circuit
interrupt (GFCI) protection on all 120-volt receptacles located in
garages and grade-level areas of unfinished accessory buildings.
5. Exterior receptacles. Install ground-fault circuit interrupt (GFCI)
protection on all 120-volt receptacles located outdoors. This does not
apply to receptacles that are dedicated for deicing equipment and are
located under the eaves. This applies to holiday lighting receptacles
located under the eaves.
6. Basement receptacles. Install ground-fault circuit interrupt (GFCI)
protection on all 120-volt receptacles located in unfinished basements.
An unfinished basement is not intended as habitable space and is limited
to storage and work space.
7. Crawl space receptacles. Install ground-fault circuit interrupt (GFCI)
protection on all 120-volt receptacles located in crawl spaces.
 Receptacles in crawl spaces are not required unless equipment requiring
service is located there.
8. Sink receptacles. Install ground-fault circuit interrupt (GFCI) protection
on all 120-volt receptacles that are located within six feet of the outside
edge of a sink. This includes wall, floor, and countertop receptacles.
9. Boathouse receptacles. Install ground-fault circuit interrupt (GFCI)
protection on all 120-volt receptacles located in boathouses. Install
ground-fault circuit interrupt (GFCI) protection on all 120-volt and 240-
volt receptacles that serve boat hoists.
10. Spas, tubs, and other circuits requiring ground-fault protection. Install
ground-fault circuit interrupt (GFCI) protection on all circuits serving
spa tubs, whirlpool tubs, hot tubs, and similar equipment. Refer to the
general codes for more information about receptacles serving these
components.
11. Install GFCI circuit breakers and receptacles so that they are readily
accessible.
Ground-fault receptacles and circuit breakers detect unwanted current running between an energized
wire and a grounded wire.
A combination ARC-fault circuit breaker detects sparking (arcing) faults along damaged energized
wires and detects these faults between wires. A branch ARC-fault circuit breaker only detects arcing

faults between wires.

ARC-FAULT LOCATION REQUIREMENTS
1. Install a combination type or an outlet (receptacle) type arc-fault circuit
interrupter (AFCI) on all 15- and 20-amp, 120-volt branch circuits
serving sleeping, family, dining, living, sun, and recreation rooms,
kitchens, laundry areas, and parlors, libraries, dens, hallways, closets,
and similar rooms and areas. This means that 15- and 20-amp, 120-volt
branch circuits serving most interior spaces in a home are required to
have AFCI protection. Note that garages, basements, utility and
mechanical rooms, and exterior branch circuits are not included in this
list, although local building officials may include these areas by
interpretation.
2. You may provide AFCI protection for the entire branch circuit by
installing a combination-type AFCI circuit breaker in the electrical
panel where the branch circuit originates.
3. You may provide AFCI protection to a branch circuit using several
different combinations of branch-circuit type AFCI circuit breakers and
branch-circuit type AFCI receptacles. Refer to general codes or your
local building inspector for details about these alternate methods.
4. Provide AFCI for branch circuits that are modified, replaced, or
extended. You may use either of the following methods: (a) install a
combination-type AFCI circuit breaker in the electrical panel where the
branch circuit originates, or (b) install a branch-circuit type AFCI
receptacle at the first receptacle in the existing branch circuit.
5. Install AFCI circuit breakers and receptacles so that they are readily
accessible.
Receptacles for whirlpool tubs must be GFCI protected and must face the access opening. The
receptacle shown here is a violation.
 Junction Boxes, Device Boxes & Enclosures

A ll electrical boxes are available in different depths. A box must be

deep enough so a switch or receptacle can be removed or installed
easily without crimping and damaging the circuit wires. Replace an
undersized box with a larger box using Table 48 the Electrical Box Fill
Chart (see page 204) as a guide. The NEC also says that all electrical
boxes must remain accessible. Never cover an electrical box with
drywall, paneling, or wall coverings.

Box shape is directly related to function, as electrical fixtures are created to fit on boxes of a particular
shape. Octagonal and round boxes generally are designed for ceiling mounting, while square and

rectangular boxes are sized for single-pole, duplex, and other standard switch and receptacle sizes.

NON-METALLIC BOX INSTALLATION

 1. Use non-metallic boxes only with NM type cable or with non-metallic
conduit or tubing. You may use non-metallic boxes with metallic
conduit or tubing if you maintain the electrical continuity of the metallic
conduit or tubing by installing a bonding jumper through the box. In
many situations it is easier to use a metallic box with metallic conduit or
tubing.
2. Extend NM cable sheathing at least 1/4 inch into a non-metallic box
knockout opening.
3. Secure NM cable, conduit, and tubing to each box. You may secure NM
cable with cable clamps inside the box or with compression tabs
provided where the cable enters the box. You do not need to secure NM
cable to a standard single-gang box (2 1/4 by four inches) mounted in a
wall or ceiling if you fasten the cable not more than eight inches from
the box and if the sheathing enters the box at least 1/4 inch. Measure the
eight inches along the length of the sheathing, not from the outside of
the box.
LIGHT FIXTURE BOX INSTALLATION
1. Use boxes designed for mounting light fixtures if a light fixture is to be
mounted to the box. These boxes are usually four-inch round or
octagonal.
2. You may use other boxes to mount light fixtures on walls if the fixture
weighs less than 6 pounds and if the fixture is secured to the box using
at least #6 screws.
3. Support light fixtures weighing at least 50 pounds independently from
the light fixture box. You may use the light fixture box to support light
fixtures weighing less than 50 pounds. Note that ceiling fans are not
light fixtures.
Do not support heavy light fixtures using only the light fixture electrical box. The eye hook supporting
this chandelier is driven into the same ceiling joist to which the electrical box is mounted.

BOX CONTENTS LIMITATIONS

1. Limit the number of wires, devices (such as switches and receptacles),
and fittings in a box. This limitation is primarily based on the heat
generated by the wires and devices in the box. The actual size of the box
relative to its contents is a secondary consideration.
2. Use the cubic inch volume printed on the box or provided in the box
manufacturer’s instructions to determine box volume. Do not attempt to
measure the box volume. Do not estimate box volume from the volume
 of similar size boxes. You will probably not get the same volume as
provided by the manufacturer.
3. Use Table 47 to determine the volume units required by wires, devices,
and fittings in a box.
BOX INSTALLATION TOLERANCES
1. Install boxes in non-combustible material, such as masonry, so that the
front edge is set back not more than 1/4 inch from the finished surface.
2. Install boxes in walls and ceilings made of wood or other combustible
material so that the box’s front edge is flush with the finished surface or
projects from the finished surface. You may use an extension ring,
plaster ring, or similar device to extend the box to the finished wall
surface. Mechanically secure the extension device to the box.
3. Cut openings for boxes in drywall and plaster so that the opening is not
more than 1/8 inch from the perimeter of the box.

Boxes must be installed so the front edges are flush with the finished wall surface, and the gap
1
between the box and the wall covering is not more than /8".
Volume Units
Calculate the volume units required by wires, devices, and fittings
based on the following definitions:

Volume units for current-carrying wires. Allow one volume unit for
each individual hot (ungrounded) and neutral (grounded) wire in the
box. Use Table 47 to determine the volume units of common wire sizes.
Example: two pieces of #14/2 NM are in a box. Each piece of this cable
contains one hot (ungrounded) and one neutral (grounded) wire and one
grounding wire. From Table 47, each #14 wire uses 2.00 cubic inches
in the box. The total volume units required by the hot (ungrounded) and
neutral (grounded) wires is eight cubic inches.

Volume units for devices. Allow two volume units for each device
(switch or receptacle) in the box. Base the volume units on the largest
hot (ungrounded) or neutral (grounded) wire in the box. Example: NM
cable size #14 and #12 are in a box. From Table 47, #14 wire uses 2.00
cubic inches and #12 wire uses 2.25 cubic inches. Allow 4.5 cubic
inches volume units (2 × 2.25 cubic inches) for each switch or
receptacle in the box based on the volume of the larger #12 NM cable.

Volume units for grounding wires. Allow one volume unit for all
grounding wires in the box. Base the volume unit on the largest hot
(ungrounded) or neutral (grounded) wire in the box.

Volume units for clamps. Allow one volume unit for all internal cable
clamps in the box, if any. Base the volume unit on the largest hot
(ungrounded) or neutral (grounded) wire in the box.

Volume units for fittings. Allow one volume unit for all fittings in the
box, if any. Base the volume unit on the largest hot (ungrounded) or
neutral (grounded) wire in the box.
Table 47: Wire Volume Unit
WIRE SIZE (AWG) WIRE VOLUME
14 2.00 in.3
12 2.25 in.3
10 2.50 in.3
8 3.00 in.3
6 5.00 in.3
Table 48: Electrical Box Fill Chart
MAXIMUM NUMBER OF VOLUME BOX SIZE AND SHAPE
UNITS PERMITTED (If volume not labeled by manufacturer)
(see notes below)
JUNCTION BOXES
4 × 1 1/4" R or O
14 AWG 6
12 AWG 5
10 AWG 5
8 AWG 4
JUNCTION BOXES
4 × 1 1/2" R or O
14 AWG 7
12 AWG 6
10 AWG 6
8 AWG 5
JUNCTION BOXES
4 × 2 1/8" R or O
14 AWG 10
12 AWG 9
10 AWG 8
8 AWG 5
JUNCTION BOXES
4 × 1 1/4" S
14 AWG 9
12 AWG 8
10 AWG 7
8 AWG 6
JUNCTION BOXES
4 × 1 1/2" S
14 AWG 10
12 AWG 9
10 AWG 8
8 AWG 7
JUNCTION BOXES
 4 × 2 1/8" S
14 AWG 15
12 AWG 13
10 AWG 12
8 AWG 10
JUNCTION BOXES
4 11/16 × 1 1/4" S
14 AWG 12
12 AWG 11
10 AWG 10
8 AWG 8
JUNCTION BOXES
4 11/16 × 1 1/2" S
14 AWG 14
12 AWG 13
10 AWG 11
8 AWG 9
JUNCTION BOXES
4 11/16 × 2 1/8" S
14 AWG 21
12 AWG 18
10 AWG 16
8 AWG 14
DEVICE BOXES
3 × 2 × 1 1/2"
14 AWG 3
12 AWG 3
10 AWG 3
8 AWG 2
DEVICE BOXES
3 × 2 × 2"
14 AWG 5
12 AWG 4
10 AWG 4
8 AWG 3
DEVICE BOXES
3 × 2 × 2 1/4"
14 AWG 5
12 AWG 4
10 AWG 4
8 AWG 3
DEVICE BOXES
3 × 2 × 2 1/2"
14 AWG 6
12 AWG 5
10 AWG 5
8 AWG 4
DEVICE BOXES
3 × 2 × 2 3/4"
14 AWG 7
12 AWG 6
10 AWG 6
8 AWG 4
DEVICE BOXES
3 × 2 × 3 1/2"
14 AWG 9
12 AWG 8
10 AWG 7
8 AWG 6
DEVICE BOXES
4 × 2 1/8 × 1 1/2"
14 AWG 5
12 AWG 4
10 AWG 4
8 AWG 3
DEVICE BOXES
4 × 2 1/8 × 1 7/8"
14 AWG 6
12 AWG 5
10 AWG 5
8 AWG 4
DEVICE BOXES
4 × 2 1/8 × 2 1/8"
14 AWG 7
 12 AWG 6
10 AWG 5
8 AWG 4

Notes:
• R = Round; O = Octagonal; S = Square or rectangular
• Each hot or neutral wire entering the box is counted as one volume
unit.
• Grounding wires are counted as one volume unit in total—do not
count each one individually.
• Raceway fittings and external cable clamps do not count. Internal
cable connectors and straps count as one volume unit.
• Devices (switches and receptacles mainly) each count as two volume
units.
• When calculating total volume units, any non-wire components
should be assigned the gauge of the largest wire in the box.
• For wire gauges not shown here, contact your local electrical
inspections office.

BOX SUPPORT IN WALLS, CEILINGS & FLOORS

1. Provide support for boxes that rigidly and securely fasten them in place.
You may use nails or screws to support these boxes.
2. Protect screws inside boxes so that the threads will not damage the
wires.
3. Wood braces used to support boxes must be at least 1 × 2".
4. Use “cut-in” or “old work” retrofit boxes only if they have approved
clamps or anchors that are identified for the location where they are
installed.
DAMP LOCATIONS
1. Install a receptacle box cover that is weatherproof when the cover is
closed and a plug is not inserted into a receptacle located in a damp
location. This applies to 15-amp and 20-amp receptacles. A damp area
is protected from direct contact with water. Refer to the definition of
damp location. You may use a receptacle cover suitable for wet
locations in a damp location (see page 169).
 2. Install a watertight seal between a flush-mounted receptacle and its
faceplate. This will require a gasket or sealant between the finished
surface (such as stucco, brick, or siding) and the faceplate.
WET LOCATIONS
1. Install a receptacle box cover that is weatherproof when the cover is
closed on any receptacle located in a wet location. This applies to 15-
amp and 20-amp receptacles in any indoor or outdoor wet location. This
applies regardless of whether or not a plug is inserted into the
receptacle. Refer to the definition of wet location (see page 169).
2. Install a watertight seal between a flush-mounted receptacle and its
faceplate. This will require a gasket or sealant between the finished
surface (such as stucco, brick, or siding) and the faceplate.
BOX SUPPORT BY RACEWAYS
1. Do not support any junction or device boxes using only conduit or
tubing if the box volume is larger than 100 cubic inches.
2. Support boxes that do not contain switches, receptacles, or light fixtures
by using at least two lengths of conduit threaded wrench-tight into the
box. Secure the conduit not more than three feet from the box if the
conduit enters from different sides of the box. Secure the conduit not
more than 18 inches from the box if the conduit enters from the same
side of the box. Example: if the conduit enters the box from the top and
bottom of the box, then secure the conduit not more than three feet from
the box. Example: if the conduit enters the box from only the top or
only from the bottom, then secure the conduit not more than 18 inches
from the box.
3. Support boxes that contain switches or receptacles or light fixtures by
using at least two lengths of conduit threaded wrench-tight into the box.
Secure the conduit not more than 18 inches from the box.
4. You may use RMC or IMC metal conduit to support light fixtures under
certain conditions. Refer to the IRC for the exceptions.
Secure conduit supporting a junction box within 3 ft. from the box if the conduit enters the box from
opposite directions. Boxes containing a switch or receptacle should be supported by two pieces of

conduit and should be secured within 18" from the box.

Secure each cable to a cabinet using an approved cable clamp.
Panel boxes, including the main service panel and subpanel boxes, also require the use of properly sized
cable clamps wherever cables enter or exit the box.

CABLES SECURED TO A CABINET

1. Secure each individual cable to panelboard cabinets and to similar
enclosures, unless the exception applies.
2. You may run NM cable into the top of a surface-mounted cabinet
through an accessible rigid raceway under certain conditions. Refer to
IRC Chapter 39 for the conditions.
Electrical Box Types
 Box Installation Specifications

High-quality non-metallic boxes are rigid and don’t contort easily. A variety of adapter plates are
available, including single-gang (A), double-gang (B), light fixture (C), and junction box cover plate (D).

Adapter plates come in several thicknesses to match different wall constructions.

Boxes larger than 2 × 4" and all retrofit boxes must have either compression tabs or internal cable
clamps. After installing cables in the box, tighten cable clamps over the cables so they are gripped

firmly, but not so tightly that the cable sheathing is crushed.

Metal boxes must be grounded to the circuit grounding system. Connect the circuit grounding wires to
the box with a green insulated pigtail wire and wire connector (as shown) or with a grounding clip.
Cables entering a metal box must be clamped. A variety of clamps are available, including plastic
clamps (A, C) and threaded metal clamps (B).
 Circuit Breaker Panels
The circuit breaker panel is the electrical distribution center for your home.
It divides the current into branch circuits that are carried throughout the
house. Each branch circuit is protected by a circuit breaker that protects the
wires from dangerous current overloads. When installing new circuits, the
last step is to connect the wires to new circuit breakers at the panel. Follow
basic safety procedures and always shut off the main circuit breaker and test
for power before touching any parts inside the panel. Never touch the
service wire lugs. If unsure of your own skills, hire an electrician to make
the final circuit connections. (If you have an older electrical service with
fuses instead of circuit breakers, always have an electrician make these final
hookups.)
If a circuit breaker panel does not have enough open slots for new full-
size circuit breakers, you may be able to install 1/2-height (slimline) circuit
breakers. Otherwise, you will need to install a subpanel.
Before installing any new wiring, evaluate your electrical service to
make sure it provides enough current to support both the existing wiring
and any new circuits. If your service does not provide enough current, you
will need to upgrade to a higher amp rating panel with enough extra breaker
slots for the new circuits you want to install.
Safety Warning
Never touch any parts inside a circuit breaker panel until you have
checked for power. Circuit breaker panels differ in appearance,
depending on the manufacturer. Never begin work in a circuit breaker
panel until you understand its layout and can identify the parts.
 Switch Installation
SWITCH CURRENT LOAD LIMITATIONS
1. Do not use a switch in a circuit if the current load on the circuit exceeds
the current rating of the switch. Example: a 15-amp snap switch may be
overloaded if it switches ten 200-watt, 120-volt flood lights. Beware of
overloads if the switch controls multiple high wattage flood lights or
other high current draw equipment.
2. Use switches that are rated at least 80 percent of a motor’s full load
current rating.
3. Install switches that have at least the same current rating as the circuit
breaker or fuse protecting the branch circuit when the switch controls
plug-and-cord connected equipment either by switching the receptacle
or by switching a permanently connected cord. Example: a switch
controls half of a receptacle in a bedroom. If the branch circuit is 20
amps, the switch should be rated at 20 amps or more.
4. Run the grounded (neutral) wire of a general purpose branch circuit to
the switch box when the switch controls lighting loads. Refer to the IRC
for exceptions that may occur in some unusual conditions.
A typical 15-amp single pole switch seen front and back.
Cover exposed electrical connections in timer boxes using the manufacturer-supplied cover.

SWITCH ORIENTATION
1. Install single-throw switches so that ON is in the up position when the
device is installed vertically. You may install single-throw switches
horizontally.
2. Use switches that clearly indicate whether the switch is in the ON or
OFF position. This does not apply to three-way and four-way switches.
This requirement is frequently waived when rocker type switches are
used.
TIMER SWITCHES
1. Use timer switches with energized parts that are enclosed in the switch’s
case or enclose the timer switch in a cabinet or box.
2. Install a barrier to guard against contact with energized parts.
SWITCH HEIGHT
 1. Locate switches not more than 79 inches above the finished floor or
finished grade. Measure to the center of the handle when in the up
position.
2. Locate switches in readily accessible places.
GROUNDING OF SWITCHES, BOXES & FACEPLATES
1. Ground metal boxes containing switches, and the switches themselves
(including dimmers and similar devices), and metal faceplates covering
switches. Ground the switch by mounting the switch to a grounded
metal box using metal screws or by connecting an equipment grounding
wire to the switch. Connect switches to the equipment grounding wire
when using non-metallic boxes.
2. You may replace an existing ungrounded switch with another
ungrounded switch if the wiring method has no equipment grounding
wire. Protect these ungrounded switches that are located not more than
8 feet vertically or 5 feet horizontally from the ground or from grounded
metal objects by: (a) installing a non-combustible and non-conductive
faceplate using nonmetallic screws, or (b) using a switch with a non-
metallic strap or yoke, or (c) installing GFCI protection on the circuit.

Switch Only Hot Wires

Switch only the hot (ungrounded) wire unless the switch
simultaneously disconnects all wires in the circuit. Maintain required
wire color-coding throughout three-way and four-way circuits.

SWITCHES IN WET LOCATIONS

1. Enclose switches and circuit breakers installed in wet locations in a
weatherproof cabinet or enclosure.
2. Do not locate switches in shower or tub spaces unless the switch is part
of a listed tub or shower assembly.
SWITCH MOUNTING IN BOXES
1. Mount switches in boxes that are recessed from the wall by seating the
switch’s extension ears at the top and bottom of the switch against the
 wall surface.
2. Mount switches in boxes that are flush with the wall by seating the
switch’s mounting yoke or strap against the box.
3. Do not allow the switch body to move when the switch is operated. This
can, over time, cause wires to loosen, potentially causing arcing and a
fire.
SWITCH FACEPLATE INSTALLATION
1. Install switch faceplates so that the plate completely covers the switch
and so that the faceplate is flush against the wall. No gaps should exist
between the switch handle and the faceplate, and between the faceplate
and the wall.

Connect the grounding wire to the switch grounding terminal when mounting the switch in a plastic
box.
Three-way switches and four-way switches are required for circuits with fixtures controlled by
multiple switches. A four-way switch is seen here. Note that ON and OFF are not indicated on the

toggle because these settings can change based on which switch was used last.
 Light Fixture Installation
LIGHTS REQUIRED IN HABITABLE ROOMS
1. Install at least one switch-controlled light in every habitable room and
bathroom. This light may be a switched (half-hot) receptacle in
habitable rooms other than kitchens and bathrooms. In kitchens and
bathrooms, the outlet must be a switched wall or ceiling lighting outlet.
You may use lights controlled by occupancy sensors if the sensors have
a manual override that allows switch control of the light.
LIGHTS REQUIRED IN OTHER INTERIOR SPACES
1. Install at least 1 wall switch-controlled wall or ceiling light in every
hallway, stairway, attached garage, and detached garage if the detached
garage is provided with electricity.
2. Install at least 1 wall switch to control stairway lights if the stairs have
at least (≥) 6 risers. Install a switch at: (a) each floor, and at (b) each
landing that provides access to an interior or exterior entry opening.
LIGHTS REQUIRED AT EXTERIOR DOORS
1. Install at least 1 switch-controlled wall or ceiling light on the exterior
side of every exterior door with grade level access. Exterior lights are
not required at garage vehicle doors.
LIGHTS REQUIRED IN ATTICS, CRAWLSPACES & BASEMENTS
1. Install at least one light outlet in attics, crawlspaces, utility rooms, and
basements if the area is used for storage or if it contains equipment that
requires service. Locate the light outlet near any equipment that requires
service.
2. Locate a switch for the light at the usual point of entry into the area.
You may use a pull-chain controlled light if the light is located at the
usual point of entry into the area. This means that if the light is not at
the entrance to the area, the light must be switched at the entrance.
LIGHT FIXTURE SUPPORT
1. You may use a securely attached box to support light fixtures weighing
less than 50 pounds. Note that ceiling fans are not considered light
fixtures.
 2. Do not use the screw shell of a light fixture to support anything that
weighs more than six pounds or is more than 16 inches in any
dimension.
RECESSED LIGHTS
1. Use recessed lights that are labeled as being thermally protected.
Thermal protection shuts off power to the light at high temperatures.
Thermal protection is not required if the recessed light is made, labeled,
and installed so that it functions as if it were thermally protected.
2. Use insulation contact (IC) rated recessed lights when the recessed parts
are installed in an insulated attic. IC rated recessed lights may not
require clearance to insulation or to combustible materials
3. Provide at least 3 inches clearance between insulation and recessed
lights that are not labeled as being insulation contact (IC) rated. Do not
install insulation above non-IC rated recessed lights.

Choose the proper type of recessed light fixture for your project. There are two types of fixtures: those
rated for installation within insulation (left), and those which must be kept at least 3" from insulation

(right). Self-contained thermal switches shut off power if the unit gets too hot for its rating. A recessed

1
light fixture must be installed at least /2" from combustible materials.

LIGHTS IN WET & DAMP LOCATIONS

1. Install lights in wet and damp locations so that water cannot enter or
accumulate in the wiring or energized parts.
2. Use only lights labeled SUITABLE FOR WET LOCATIONS when
installing lights that may be subject to direct contact with water. Refer
to the definition of wet location (see page 169).
 3. Use lights labeled either SUITABLE FOR WET LOCATIONS or
SUITABLE FOR DAMP LOCATIONS when installing lights in damp
locations. Refer to the definition of damp location (see page 169). Light
fixtures, including ceiling fans, intended for indoors may not be
installed in either wet or damp locations.

Keep all parts of lights and ceiling fans at least 3 ft. horizontally and 8 ft. vertically from bathtubs and
showers.

CEILING FANS
1. Support ceiling fans weighing not more than 70 pounds using boxes
listed and labeled to support the fan.
2. Support ceiling fans weighting more than 70 pounds independently
from the box.
CEILING FANS & LIGHTS NEAR TUBS & SHOWERS
 1. Install ceiling fans, cord-connected lights, lights suspended by cords,
chains, or cables, and track lights so that no part of the light or fan falls
within an exclusion zone measuring three feet horizontally from the
base of the tub or shower stall threshold and eight feet vertically from
the top of the tub rim or shower stall threshold. Parts include fan blades,
bulb enclosures, hanging chains, and other parts connected to or
hanging from the light or fan.
2. Use light fixtures that are listed for damp locations if the fixture is: (a)
located within the tub or shower area, and (b) within 8 feet from the top
of the tub rim or shower threshold.
3. Use light fixtures that are listed for wet locations if the fixture is: (a)
located within the tub or shower area, and (b) within 8 feet from the top
of the tub rim or shower threshold, and (c) subject to shower spray.

Light fixtures installed in damp areas should be rated for moisture exposure.
Look for heavy-duty ceiling boxes that are specifically rated for ceiling fans and heavy light fixtures.

A sturdy metal brace with an integral box that is installed between ceiling joists can be used to
support ceiling fans and heavy light fixtures.
 Closet Lights
APPLICABLE CODE DEFINITIONS FOR CLOSETS:
Clothes closet: A space intended for storage of clothing. A clothes closet
usually contains a horizontal rod for hanging clothing. This definition
implies that this section does not apply to storage areas such as linen closets
and pantries. As with all codes, application of this section depends on
interpretation by the local building official.

Closet storage area: Clearances to light fixtures required by this IRC

Section are between light fixtures and the closet storage area. The closet
storage area is a space consisting of a hanging rod storage area and a shelf
storage area. The required clearance applies to both areas. The clearances to
light fixtures apply whether or not shelves or hanging rods are currently
installed in the closet. This means that if a shelf or rod could be installed on
a clothes closet wall, you must assume that one will be installed and that the
clearances to light fixtures apply.

Hanging rod storage area: This area begins at the closet floor and ends six
feet above the closet floor or at the highest hanging rod, whichever is
higher. The hanging rod storage area includes all of the space within 24
inches horizontally from the back and sides of the closet walls.

Shelf storage area: This begins six feet above the closet floor or at the
highest hanging rod, whichever is higher, and ends at the closet ceiling. The
shelf storage area includes all of the space within 12 inches horizontally
from the back and sides of the closet walls or within the width of the shelf,
whichever is wider.
LIGHT FIXTURE CLEARANCES IN CLOTHING CLOSETS
1. Do not install any incandescent or LED light fixture in a clothes closet
if any part of the lamp is exposed. This includes both surface mounted
and recessed light fixtures. This includes incandescent light fixtures that
have lamps such as compact fluorescent installed because the
fluorescent lamp could be replaced with an incandescent lamp. This
includes hanging light fixtures.
 2. Provide at least 12 inches between surface mounted incandescent and
LED light fixtures and the closest point of the closet storage area.
3. Provide at least 6 inches between recessed incandescent and LED light
fixtures and the closest point of the closet storage area.
4. Provide at least 6 inches between fluorescent light fixtures and the
closest point of the closet storage area.
5. You may install surface-mounted fluorescent and LED light fixtures
within the closet storage area if the fixture is identified for use within
the area.
USING FLEXIBLE CORDS WITH EQUIPMENT
1. Use flexible cords only to connect an appliance to a receptacle and only
if the appliance manufacturer’s instructions allow connection by a
flexible cord.
2. Do not run or conceal flexible cords in walls, ceilings, floors, or
raceways.
3. Do not splice or tap flexible cords.
4. Provide power to flexible cords through an attachment plug. Do not
hard-wire flexible cords directly to a power source.
5. Do not use flexible cords as a substitute for permanent wiring.
Closet hanging rod and shelf storage areas.
Electric Equipment Grounding
1. Ground metal parts in an electrical system including equipment
cases, cabinets, boxes, conduit, tubing, light fixtures, and water
pumps. Equipment cases include furnaces, air conditioning
condensers, water heaters, dishwashers, and similar equipment.
2. You may ground metal parts in an electrical system by using any
currently accepted wiring method that provides a mechanically and
electrically continuous path to the service grounding connection.
These methods include: (a) grounding wires contained in NM cable,
and (b) separate equipment grounding wires, and (c) metal conduit
and tubing when the fittings at terminations are listed for grounding.
3. Do not use a separate earth ground as the only means of grounding
equipment. Example: do not install a separate driven ground rod to
ground an air conditioning condenser.
4. In older homes, the electrical wires do not have a separate grounding
wire. Some people install a wire between the grounding screw of a
grounded receptacle and the neutral terminal. This is not safe.
Modern NM (nonmetallic) cable, found in most wiring systems installed after 1965, contains a
bare wire that provides grounding for receptacle and switch boxes.
Armored cable has a metal sheath that serves as the grounding pathway.
Polarized receptacles have a long slot and a short slot. Used with a polarized plug, the polarized
receptacle keeps electrical current directed for safety.
Three-slot receptacles are required by code for all new installations. They are usually connected
to a standard two-wire cable with ground.
 Satellite Dishes, Television & Radio
Antennas

T his material applies to receiving antennas such as satellite dishes, and

traditional radio and television antennas. It does not apply to cable TV
system wiring, and it does not apply to network-powered broadband
communication system wiring. This material also applies to radio
transmission antennas and towers such as those used by amateur radio
operators.
Television aerials and satellite dishes must be located well away from power lines. They should be
properly grounded and protected against lightning strikes.

ANTENNA PROHIBITED INSTALLATION LOCATIONS

1. Do not attach or secure (guy) antennas to electric service entrance
masts, or to poles that support electric power wires, or to plumbing vent
pipes, or to furnace vent pipes.
2. Do not attach or secure (guy) large antennas to chimneys including
framed and brick veneer chimneys. These chimneys are not designed to
bear the loads imposed by large antennas. Consult a qualified contractor
 or chimney sweep before attaching or securing large antennas to
chimneys.
3. Provide clearance between antennas and masts and electric power wires
so that if the antenna falls, it is unlikely to fall on the electric power
wires.
ANTENNA WIRE & CABLE CLEARANCE TO ELECTRIC POWER LINES
1. Do not install outdoor, above-ground antenna wires and cables so that
they cross over electric power wires. Avoid, if possible, installing
outdoor, above-ground antenna wires that cross under electric power
wires. Electric power wires include wires on overhead power poles,
overhead service drop wires, and any electric power wires running
between buildings.
2. Provide at least two feet clearance between outdoor, above-ground
antenna wires and cables and electric power lines that can swing freely.
3. Provide at least four inches between outdoor antenna wires and cables
and most residential electric power wires when both are secured so that
they cannot move.
4. Provide at least 12 inches clearance between underground antenna wires
and underground cables and electric power wires.
5. Provide at least a two-inch clearance between indoor antenna wires and
cables and indoor electric power wires.
GROUNDING ANTENNAS, MASTS, WIRES & CABLES
1. Install a ground/bonding wire between metal antenna masts, towers, and
support poles and an approved grounding point. Metal antenna masts
include the short metal mast commonly found on satellite dishes.
2. Install a grounding/bonding wire between the coaxial cable shield and
an approved grounding/bonding point. You must ground/bond both the
coaxial cable shield and any metal antenna mast.
3. Use at least #10 AWG copper wire or #17 copper clad steel wire as the
grounding/bonding wire for receiving equipment only. You may use a
#8 AWG aluminum or copper-clad aluminum grounding/bonding wire
for receiving equipment only if it is not in contact with masonry, and is
not installed in a corrosive environment, and is installed at least 18
 inches above the ground at all points including at the connection to the
grounding/bonding point.
4. Use at least #10 AWG copper, bronze, or copper-clad steel as the
grounding/bonding wires for transmitting/receiving stations. Use a
larger wire if the lead-in wires are larger than #10 AWG. Insulation is
not required on any grounding/bonding wire. You may use solid or
stranded grounding/bonding wires for transmitting or receiving stations.
5. Run the grounding/bonding wire in as straight a line as possible to an
approved grounding point.
6. Connect the grounding/bonding wire(s) to one of the following
approved grounding/bonding points: (a) the intersystem bonding
connection terminal, or (b) the building’s grounding electrode,
grounding electrode wire, or other metal part of the building grounding
electrode system, or (c) a metal water service pipe not more than 5 feet
from where the water service pipe enters the building, or (d) the service
equipment cabinet or non-flexible metal service equipment raceway, or
(e) the other system grounding/bonding connection described in the
IRC.
7. Do not connect the antenna mast or coaxial cable to its own ground rod
unless the ground rod is bonded to the building grounding electrode
system using at least #6 AWG copper wire.
8. Secure and support the grounding/bonding wire by fastening it to the
building or other substantial structure. Insulating supports are not
required.
9. Protect the grounding/bonding wire if it is exposed to physical damage.
Use a wiring method that is approved for use in physical damage
environments such as metallic conduit.
10. Bond (connect) both ends of any metallic conduit and tubing used to
protect the grounding/bonding wire to the bonding/grounding wire.
GROUNDING WIRE CONNECTION TO THE GROUNDING POINT
1. Use a listed clamp, listed pressure connector, or other listed means to
connect the grounding wire to the grounding point.
2. Install the listed connector so that it is both physically and electrically
connected to the grounding point. This means removing paint, lacquer,
 rust, and other non-conductive material before attaching the listed
connector to the grounding point.
3. Connect not more than one grounding wire to a listed connector unless
the connector is listed to accept more than one wire.
4. Use a listed connector that is compatible with both the grounding point
and the grounding wire material. Example: an iron or steel clamp is not
compatible with a copper water pipe. Both materials will corrode over
time.

Source for This Material

The material in this section is based on the National Electrical Code
(NEC) ®, 2014 Edition. Most local building officials use the NEC as a
supplement to or in place of the IRC when dealing with residential
electrical issues. The IRC does not address antennas, so the NEC is
usually the appropriate source for rules regarding installation of
antennas and the wires that connect them to the receiving equipment.
Verify with the local building official which version, if any, of the NEC
is adopted in your area.
 Broadband Cable Wiring

T his material applies to network-powered broadband communication

system wiring. These systems usually deliver television, telephone,
Internet, and similar services. They operate at up to 150 volts and 100
watts. This material does not apply to standard cable TV system wiring, and
it does not apply to satellite TV antenna wiring. Some new communication
systems use fiber-optic cables. This article does not apply to fiber-optic
cables.
OVERHEAD BROADBAND CABLE CLEARANCE
1. Install outdoor, aboveground broadband communication cables above
electric power wires whenever possible.
2. Avoid installing outdoor, above-ground broadband communication
cables near electric power wires that can swing freely. Electric power
wires include wires on overhead power poles, overhead service drop
wires, and any electric power wires running between buildings. Provide
at least 12 inches clearance between outdoor, above-ground broadband
communication cables and electric power lines that can swing freely.
Increase clearance to at least 40 inches at the power pole.
3. Provide at least four inches between outdoor broadband communication
cables and most residential electric power wires when both are secured
so that they cannot move.
4. Measure the vertical clearance between overhead broadband cables and
the ground, walkway, driveway, or street beginning at the lowest
hanging point of the cables and ending at the surface under the lowest
point.
5. Provide at least 91/2 feet vertical clearance between broadband cables
and finished grade, sidewalks, or platforms accessed by pedestrians
only.
6. Provide at least 111/2 feet vertical clearance between overhead
broadband cables and residential property and driveways.
7. Provide at least 151/2 feet vertical clearance between overhead
broadband cables and public streets, alleys, roads, or parking areas
 subject to truck traffic.
8. Provide the same clearance between overhead broadband cables and
swimming pools, spas, and hot tubs as for electrical wires.
9. Provide at least eight feet vertical clearance between broadband cables
and most low-slope roofs.
10. Provide at least 18 inches vertical clearance between broadband cables
and roof overhangs if not more than four feet of cable passes over the
roof and if the cable terminates at a through-the-roof raceway or
support. This is similar to clearances allowed for service drop wires.
11. Provide at least three feet vertical clearance between broadband cables
and roofs with a slope of at least four inches in 12 inches.
BROADBAND CABLE BURIAL DEPTH
1. Bury broadband cables at least 18 inches deep when the cables are not
covered by concrete or enclosed in conduit or other raceways. You may
reduce the depth to at least 12 inches when the cables are under concrete
residential driveways, patios, and similar concrete slabs. Refer to the
NEC for burial depths when the cables are enclosed in conduit or
raceways.

Low & Medium Power Broadband System

Definition
Low power broadband systems operate at not more than 100 volts, and
medium power systems operate at not more than 150 volts. Verify
voltage rating and system classification with the broadband service
provider. The operating voltage of the system affects how the cables are
installed.

GROUNDING BROADBAND CABLES

1. Install a copper (or other corrosion-resistant material)
grounding/bonding wire at least #14 AWG between the broadband cable
shield and an approved grounding/bonding point.
2. Connect the grounding/bonding wire to the broadband cable shield at a
point as close as possible to where the outside cable terminates outside
the building. If the outside cable enters the building, make this
connection at a point as close as possible to where the outside cable
enters the building.
3. Run the grounding/bonding wire in as straight a line and as short a
distance as possible from the broadband cable shield grounding/bonding
connection point to an approved grounding/bonding point.
4. Limit the length of the grounding/bonding wire to not more than 20 feet.
If the broadband cable shield ground/bonding point is more than 20 feet
from an approved grounding point, you may install at least an 8 feet
long ground rod near where the cable enters the building and bond the
ground rod to the electrical service grounding system using at least #6
AWG copper wire.
5. Connect the grounding/bonding wire(s) to one of the following
approved grounding/bonding points in other than manufactured homes:
(a) the intersystem bonding connection terminal, or (b) the building’s
grounding electrode, grounding electrode wire, or other metal part of
the building grounding electrode system, or (c) a metal water service
pipe not more than 5 feet from where the water service pipe enters the
building, or (d) the service equipment cabinet or non-flexible metal
service equipment raceway, or (e) the other system grounding/bonding
connection described in the IRC.
6. Connect the grounding/bonding wire(s) to one of the approved
grounding/bonding points described above at manufactured homes if the
home has service equipment or a grounded power disconnecting means
located not more than 9 feet from the nearest wall of the home.
7. Connect the grounding/bonding wire(s) to the manufactured home’s
grounding electrode if the home does not have service equipment or a
grounded power disconnecting means located not more than 9 feet from
the nearest wall of the home. Use at least #6 AWG copper wire to make
this connection.
8. Connect the broadband cable shield to the metal frame of the
manufactured home if the grounding/bonding connection is made as
described in #7 above. Use at least #12 AWG copper wire to make this
connection.
 9. Protect the grounding/bonding wire if it is exposed to physical damage.
Use a wiring method that is approved for use in physical damage
environments such as metallic conduit.
BROADBAND CABLE & ELECTRIC POWER WIRE SEPARATION
1. Do not run low-power or medium-power broadband cables in the same
conduit, tubing, raceway, junction and device box, or enclosure with
electric power wires unless an exception applies.
2. You may install low-power and medium-power broadband cables and
electric power wires in the same cabinet or box when the electric power
wires are intended to supply power to the broadband cable system such
as for an amplifier.
3. Separate indoor broadband cables and electric power wires by at least 2
inches.
4. Separation described in 3 is not required if the electric power wires or
broadband cables are enclosed in conduit, tubing, metal cable armor or
if the electric power wires and cables are permanently separated from
each other by a continuous non-conductive material.
5. Separation described in 3 is not required if the electric power wires are
contained in a jacket such as with types NM, UF, and AC cable. This
means that, in most cases, separation between broadband cables and
electric power wires is required only when individual electric wires are
installed in conduit or tubing.
6. Provide, if possible, at least 6 feet separation between coaxial cables
and any part of a lightning protection system.
 APPENDIX
Common Mistakes
An electrical inspector visiting your home might identify a number of
situations that are not up to code. These situations may not be immediate
problems. In fact, it is possible that the wiring in your home has remained
trouble free for many years.
Nevertheless, any wiring or device that is not up to code carries the
potential for problems, often at risk to your home and your family. In
addition, you may have trouble selling your home if it is not wired
according to accepted methods.
Most local electrical codes are based on the National Electrical Code
(NEC), a book updated and published every three years by the National Fire
Protection Agency. This code book contains rules and regulations for the
proper installation of electrical wiring and devices. Most public libraries
carry reference copies of the NEC.
All electrical inspectors are required to be well versed in the NEC. Their
job is to know the NEC regulations and to make sure these rules are
followed in order to prevent fires and ensure safety. If you have questions
regarding your home wiring system, your local inspector will be happy to
answer them.
While a book cannot possibly identify all potential wiring problems in
your house, we have identified some of the most common wiring defects
here and will show you how to correct them. When working on home
wiring repair or replacement projects, refer to this section to help identify
any conditions that may be hazardous.
Electrical inspectors are on the lookout for common mistakes. The following pages detail problems to
avoid so you will pass inspection on the first try.
 Service Panel Inspection

Problem: Rust stains are found inside the main service panel. This problem occurs because water seeps
into the service head outside the house and drips down into the service panel.
Solution: Have an electrician examine the service head and the main service panel. If the panel or
service wires have been damaged, new components must be installed.
Problem: This problem is actually a very old and very dangerous solution. A penny or a knockout behind
a fuse effectively bypasses the fuse, preventing an overloaded circuit from blowing the fuse. This is very

dangerous and can lead to overheated wiring.

Solution: Remove the penny and replace the fuse. Have a licensed electrician examine the panel and
circuit wiring. If the fuse has been bypassed for years, wiring may be dangerously compromised, and the

circuit may need to be replaced.

Problem: Two wires connected to one single-pole breaker is a sign of an overcrowded panel and also a
dangerous code violation unless the breaker is approved for such a connection.
Solution: If there is room in the panel, install a separate breaker for the extra wire. If the panel is
overcrowded, have an electrician upgrade the panel or install a subpanel.
Recognizing Aluminum Wire
Solid-conductor aluminum wire was used in place of copper in many
wiring systems installed beginning around 1964 and continuing until
the late 1970s. Aluminum wire is identified by its silver color and by
the AL stamp on the cable sheathing.
By the late 1960s, reports of house fires were traced to solid
conductor aluminum wire. Investigators discovered a couple of causes.
One cause was aluminum’s tendency to oxidize (rust) especially when
connected to copper at switches, receptacles, and other wires. The other
cause was that the aluminum wire being used until about 1972 tended
to shrink and swell at a different rate than other materials. These
problems increased heat at the connections and caused the fires.
By about 1974, the problems had been corrected and inventories of
existing wire and devices had been depleted. The aluminum wire alloy
was changed to reduce the shrink and swell problem. Switches and
receptacles were changed to the CO/ALR type which reduced the
oxidation problem. By about 1980, though, solid conductor aluminum
wire had such a bad reputation that its use in the United States was
minimal. It’s unusual to find solid conductor aluminum wire in houses
built after about 1980, although some #8 AWG is being installed even
today.

Here is some general advice about dealing with solid conductor

aluminum wiring. A qualified electrician who is familiar with the issues
should work on wiring installed between 1964 and about 1974. The
aluminum wire produced during this period may not be entirely safe
even when connected to CO/ALR devices. Aluminum wire installed
after 1974 should be safe when connected to CO/ALR devices;
however, connecting aluminum wire to copper wire should only be
done using connectors designed for this purpose.
You should not confuse solid conductor aluminum wire with similar
wire and with wire that looks similar but is not aluminum. Stranded
aluminum wire continues to be used for large appliance circuits,
feeders, and service entrance wires. It is safe when properly installed
with anti-oxidant paste at terminals.
Copper-coated aluminum wire was produced in the 1970s. It is
treated like aluminum wire but does not share the same problems.
Copper-coated aluminum wire is uncommon. “Tin-coated” copper wire
was installed mainly during the 1940s and 1950s. This wire looks like
aluminum wire but is copper. This wire’s safety may be questionable
because of deterioration of its insulation, not because of the wire itself.
 Inspecting the Bonding Jumper Wire

Problem: Grounding system jumper wire is missing or is disconnected. In most homes the grounding
jumper wire attaches to water pipes on either side of the water meter.
Solution: Attach a jumper wire to the water pipes on either side of the water meter using pipe clamps.
Use wire that is the same size and type as the grounding electrode wire.
 Common Cable Problems

Problem: Cable running across joists or studs is attached to the edge of framing members. Electrical
codes forbid this type of installation in exposed areas like unfinished basements or walk-up attics.
Solution: Protect cable by drilling holes in framing members at least 2" from exposed edges and
threading the cable through the holes.
Problem: Cable running along joists or studs hangs loosely. Loose cables can be pulled accidentally,
causing damage to wires.
Solution: Anchor the cable to the side of the framing members at least 1 1/4" from the edge using
1
plastic staples. NM (non-metallic) cable should be stapled every 4 /2 ft. and within 8" of each

electrical box.
Problem: Cable threaded through studs or joists lies close to the edge of the framing members. NM
(non-metallic) cable (shown cutaway) can be damaged easily if nails or screws are driven into the

framing members during remodeling projects.

Solution: Install metal nail guards to protect cable from damage. Nail guards are available at hardware
stores and home centers.
Problem: Unclamped cable enters a metal electrical box. Edges of the knockout can rub against the

cable sheathing and damage the wires. (Note: With plastic boxes, clamps are not required if cables are

anchored to framing members within 8" of box.)

Solution: Anchor the cable to the electrical box with a cable clamp. Several types of cable clamps are
available at hardware stores and home centers.
Problem: Cables are spliced outside an electrical box. Exposed splices can spark and create a risk of
shock or fire.
Solution: Bring installation up to code by enclosing the splice inside a metal or plastic electrical box.
Make sure the box is large enough to accommodate the number of wires it contains.
 Checking Wire Connections

Problem: Two or more wires are attached to a single-screw terminal. This type of connection is seen in
older wiring but is now prohibited by the National Electrical Code.
Solution: Disconnect the wires from the screw terminal, then join them to a short length of wire (called
a pigtail) using a wire connector. Connect the other end of the pigtail to the screw terminal.

Problem: Bare wire extends past a screw terminal. Exposed wire can cause a short circuit if it touches
the metal box or another circuit wire.
Solution: Clip the wire and reconnect it to the screw terminal. In a proper connection, the bare wire
wraps completely around the screw terminal, and the plastic insulation just touches the screw head.
Problem: Wires are connected with electrical tape. Electrical tape was used frequently in older
installations, but it can deteriorate over time, leaving bare wires exposed inside the electrical box.
Solution: Replace electrical tape with wire connectors. You may need to clip away a small portion of
the wire so the bare end will be covered completely by the connector.
Problem: Nicks and scratches in bare wires interfere with the flow of current. This can cause the wires
to overheat.
Solution: Clip away damaged portion of wire, then restrip about 3/4" of insulation and reconnect the
wire to the screw terminal.
 Electrical Box Inspection

Problem: No protective sleeve on armored cable. Sharp edges of the cable can damage the wire
insulation, creating a shock hazard and fire risk.
Solution: Protect the wire insulation by installing a plastic sleeve around the wires. Sleeves are
available at hardware stores. Wires that are damaged must be replaced.
Problem: Insulation on wires is cracked or damaged. If damaged insulation exposes bare wire, a short
circuit can occur, posing a shock hazard and fire risk.
Solution: Wrap damaged insulation temporarily with plastic electrical tape. Damaged circuit wires
should be replaced by an electrician.
Problem: Open electrical boxes create a fire hazard if a short circuit causes sparks (arcing) inside the
box.
Solution: Cover the open box with a solid metal cover plate, available at any hardware store. Electrical
boxes must remain accessible and cannot be sealed inside ceilings or walls.
Problem: Short wires are difficult to handle. The National Electrical Code (NEC) requires that each wire
in an electrical box have at least 6" of workable length.
Solution: Lengthen circuit wires by connecting them to short pigtail wires using wire connectors.
Pigtails can be cut from scrap wire but should be the same gauge and color as the circuit wires and at

least 6" long.

Problem: A recessed electrical box is hazardous, especially if the wall or ceiling surface is made from a
flammable material, like wood paneling. The National Electrical Code prohibits this type of installation.
Solution: Add an extension ring to bring the face of the electrical box flush with the surface. Extension
rings come in several sizes and are available at hardware stores.
Problem: Open electrical boxes create a fire hazard if a short circuit causes sparks (dust and dirt in
electrical box can cause hazardous high-resistance short circuits). When making routine electrical

repairs, always check the electrical boxes for dust and dirt buildup.
Solution: Vacuum the electrical box clean using a narrow nozzle attachment. Make sure power to the
box is turned off at main service panel before vacuuming.
Problem: Crowded electrical box (shown cutaway) makes electrical repairs difficult. This type of
installation is prohibited because heat in the box may cause a fire.
Solution: Replace the electrical box with a deeper electrical box.
Problem: Light fixture is installed without an electrical box. This installation exposes the wiring
connections and provides no support for the light fixture.
Solution: Install an approved electrical box to enclose the wire connections and support the light
fixture.
 Inspecting Receptacles & Switches

Problem: Octopus receptacle attachments used permanently can overload a circuit and cause
overheating of the receptacle.
Solution: Use a multi-receptacle power strip with built-in overload protection. This is for temporary use
only. If the need for extra receptacles is frequent, upgrade the wiring system.
Problem: Scorch marks near screw terminals indicate that electrical arcing has occurred. Arcing usually
is caused by loose wire connections.
Solution: Replace the receptacle. Make sure wires are connected securely to screw terminals.
Problem: Exterior receptacle box allows water to enter box when receptacle slots are in use.
Solution: Replace the old receptacle box with an in-use box that has a bubble cover to protect plugs
from water while they are in the slots.
Problem: White neutral wires are connected to switch. Although the switch appears to work correctly
in this installation, it is dangerous because the light fixture carries voltage when the switch is off.
Solution: Connect the black hot wires to the switch, and join the white wires together with a wire
connector.
Problem: White neutral wires are connected to the brass screw terminals on the receptacle, and black
hot wires are attached to silver screw terminals. This installation is hazardous because live voltage

flows into the long neutral slot on the receptacle.

Solution: Reverse the wire connections so that the black hot wires are attached to brass screw
terminals and white neutral wires are attached to silver screw terminals. Live voltage now flows into

the short slot on the receptacle.

 Conversion Chart
Metric Equivalent

Converting Measurements
TO CONVERT: TO: MULTIPLY BY:
Inches Millimeters 25.4
Inches Centimeters 2.54
Feet Meters 0.305
Yards Meters 0.914
Miles Kilometers 1.609
Square inches Square centimeters 6.45
Square feet Square meters 0.093
Square yards Square meters 0.836
Cubic inches Cubic centimeters 16.4
Cubic feet Cubic meters 0.0283
Cubic yards Cubic meters 0.765
Pints (U.S.) Liters 0.473 (lmp. 0.568)
Quarts (U.S.) Liters 0.946 (lmp. 1.136)
Gallons (U.S.) Liters 3.785 (lmp. 4.546)
Ounces Grams 28.4
Pounds Kilograms 0.454
Tons Metric tons 0.907
Millimeters Inches 0.039
Centimeters Inches 0.394
Meters Feet 3.28
Meters Yards 1.09
Kilometers Miles 0.621
Square centimeters Square inches 0.155
Square meters Square feet 10.8
Square meters Square yards 1.2
Cubic centimeters Cubic inches 0.061
Cubic meters Cubic feet 35.3
Cubic meters Cubic yards 1.31
Liters Pints (U.S.) 2.114 (lmp. 1.76)
Liters Quarts (U.S.) 1.057 (lmp. 0.88)
Liters Gallons (U.S.) 0.264 (lmp. 0.22)
Grams Ounces 0.035
Kilograms Pounds 2.2
Metric tons Tons 1.1

Converting Temperatures
Convert degrees Fahrenheit (F) to degrees Celsius (C) by following this
simple formula: Subtract 32 from the Fahrenheit temperature reading. Then
mulitply that number by 5/9. For example, 77°F - 32 = 45. 45 × 5/9 = 25°C.

To convert degrees Celsius to degrees Fahrenheit, multiply the Celsius

temperature reading by 9/5, then add 32. For example, 25°C × 9/5 = 45. 45 +
32 = 77°F.
 Resources & Credits
Air Diffusion Council (ADC)
Flexible air ducts
p. 112
847-706-6750
www.flexibleduct.org

American Concrete Institute

Document ACI 332
p. 47
248-848-3800
www.concrete.org/Store

American Society of Home Inspectors (ASHI)

Information and references
800-743-2744
www.ashi.org

American Wood Council

“Prescriptive Residential Deck Construction Guide”
p. 52
202-463-2766
www.awc.org

Black & Decker Corporation

Power tools & accessories
800-544-6986
www.blackanddecker.com

International Association of Plumbing and Mechanical

Officials (IAPMO)
Publishes Uniform Plumbing Code ® and Uniform Mechanical Code®
909-472-4100
www.iapmo.org

International Code Council (ICC)

Develops residential and commercial building codes
Publishes International Residential Code®
888-422-7233
www.iccsafe.org

National Fire Protection Association (NFPA)

Publishes National Electrical Code® (NEC)
800-344-3555
www.nfpa.org
 Photography Credits
City of Swainsboro: pp. 9 (top)

Bruce Barker: pp. 50, 186

iStock: pp. 9 (bottom), 33 (left), 37, 68 (top), 111, 216

Moberg Fireplaces/www.mobergfireplaces.com: pp. 102

Shutterstock: pp. 19 (top left), 28, 32 (both), 33 (right), 60, 99 (both)

 Index
A
accessible (readily), defined, 168
accessible wires, defined, 168
accessory structures, 12
addresses, display of, 31
air admittance valves, 124, 153
air conditioners, central
cleaning condensate discharge tubes, 113
components of, 108
condensate disposal, 112–113
air conditioners, room, 188
air-entrained concrete, 48
air gap terms, 164
air intake
for fireplaces, 103
for HVAC appliances, 109
prohibited sources of, 115
airtight construction, 117
aluminum wire, 222
anchor bolts, 49
anchor straps, 49
angle stop valves, 134
antennas, 216–217
appliances
clothes washers, 161
cooking, 41
dishwashers, 160
final inspections and, 13
flexible cord use and, 214
fuel-burning
combustion air needs, 116, 118
 vent caps, 121
vent clearances, 120
vent joints, 121
vent slopes, 121
vent types for, 119
HVAC
duct size and, 112
in garages, 111
prohibited locations for, 109
kitchen branch circuits, 188
venting through chimney, 103
water heaters, 103, 111, 116, 155–157
whirlpool tubs, 33, 162
See also air conditioners, central; fixtures (plumbing)
arc-fault (AFCI) protection, 201
area requirements, 18
asphalt-based roll roofing, 96
asphalt shingles
closed-cut valley, 99
manufacturer’s instructions and, 96
roof deck and, 96–97
roof slope and, 96
attics
access requirements, 93
insulation clearance, 93
light fixture requirements, 212
protection of wiring in, 195
storage definitions, 89
See also roofing; roof systems
Authority Having Jurisdiction (AHJ), 9. See also building departments

B
baseboard heaters, 110
basements
 concrete specifications, 48
escape openings and, 28
light fixture requirements, 212
receptacles, 199, 200
running boards, 195
spread footings for, 48
stories above grade and, 8
bathrooms
ceiling height, 19
common vents, 150–151
design standards for, 19
GFCI receptacles, 200
individual vents, 150
island fixture vents, 152–153
sink receptacles, 199
toilets, 158–159
ventilation requirements, 35
wet vents, 151–152
See also bathtubs; showers; whirlpool tubs
bathtubs
ceiling fans and, 213
cutoff valves, 134
design standards for, 19
safety glazed glass and, 33
water flow at, 130
bedrooms
carbon monoxide (CO) alarms, 40–41
escape openings and, 28
floor joist spans, 60
smoke alarms and, 40–41
bend fittings, defined, 138
bidets, 130
boathouses, 201
bollards, 111
bonding
about, 182
corrugated stainless steel tubing, 186
defined, 168
at service panels, 183
water meters and, 223
bore, defined, 67, 74
braced walls, defined, 76
branch circuits
AFCI protection and, 201
air conditioner, room, 188
bathroom receptacle, 188
defined, 168
kitchen receptacle, 188
load limits, 187
multiwire, 189
receptacle quantity on, 189
branch drain, defined, 124
branch vent, defined, 124
brazing, defined, 124
broadband cable wiring, 218–219
building departments
changes to IRC and, 7
indentifying, 8
permits and, 9
vs. zoning/planning departments, 8
building drains, defined, 124
building inspectors, 9–10
building officials
certificates of occupancy and, 13
required inspections, 13
smoke alarm requirements and, 41
See also building departments
buildings
 governed by IRC, 8
typical permit requirements, 12
building sewers, defined, 124
building wrap, 83

C
cable clamps, 225
cables
armored, 215
armored sleeves for, 227
common inspection errors, 223–225
described, 168
exposed splices, 225
grounding second building feeder, 184
length of extending from boxes, 175
loose, 224
NM
grounding and, 215
installation of, 192–193
loose, 224
maximum ampacity, 191
protection of, 192, 195, 224
protection in attics, 195, 223
protection in basements, 195, 223
protection in framing, 224
securing to cabinet, 205, 225
support of, 194
UF
installation of, 192–193
maximum ampacity, 191
protection of, 192, 195
cable TV system wiring, 218
carbon monoxide (CO) alarms, 40–41
ceilings
 bathrooms and, 19
ceiling fans, 213
deflection/load table, 45
electrical box support in, 204
fireblocking locations, 80–81
fire separation, 21
height in habitable rooms, 18
cementboard, 104
central vacuum units, 111
certificates of occupancy, 13
chimney crickets, 100
chimneys
as appliance vents, 103
chimney crickets, 100
decorative covers for, 105
installing factory built, 105
See also fireplaces
circuit breaker panel, 208. See also service panel
circuit breakers
arc-fault (AFCI) protection, 201
indentifying use of, 172
overloaded, 222
slimline, 209
circuits, electrical
about, 171
AFCI protection and, 201
GFCI protection and, 200–201
city codes, 6
cleanout openings, 144
closet bend fittings, defined, 138
closet flanges, defined, 138
closets, 214
clothes dryers
ducts for, 38–39
 in garages, 111
installation requirements, 38
makeup air, 39, 116
ventilation requirements, 35
clothes washers, 161
codes
additional specialized codes, 7
amendments to IRC, 7
city, 6
existing work and, 11
International Residential Code (IRC), 6
local codes, 6
manufacturer’s instructions and, 11
state codes, 6
zoning ordinances, 8
collar ties, 86
combustion air
duct materials/construction, 117
fuel-burning appliances and, 116
permanent outside opening, 118
from within room, 118
commercial buildings, 8
composite materials, 58
concrete, 48
concrete footings, 14
conduit
connecting, 191
installation requirements, 194
service panel bonding and, 183
See also cables
coupling fittings, defined, 138
crawlspaces
GFCI protection, 201
light fixture requirements, 212
 ventilation and, 50–51
crickets, 100
cripple walls, 75
crown venting, 147

D
damp locations, defined, 169
decks
beams and, 57
bracing, 59
deck building guidelines, 52
escape openings and, 28
fasteners, 52, 54
flashing, 52, 57
flooring, 58
footings, 54
handrails and guards, 59
joist hangers, 52
joists, 53, 54–55
ledger attachment, 53–54
lumber for, 52, 53
permits and, 12
posts, 57
stairways for, 58–59
deflection
defined, 44
under live load, 45
device boxes. See electrical boxes
dishwashers
combining with disposal drainage, 160
island fixture vents, 152–153
requirements, 160
tailpieces and, 137
water flow at, 130
doors
address display and, 31
egress, 30
exterior
landings, 31
light fixture requirements, 212
fire separation, 20
flashing installation, 83
flashing requirements, 82
safety glazing and, 32–33
downdraft ventilation, 37
draftstopping, 66
drain, waste, and vent (DWV) piping
cleanouts, 144–145
materials for, 135, 136
pictured, 135
pipe slope, 143
requirements for, 136
size reduction, 143
slip joints and, 137
support for, 133
See also fittings; pipes; plumbing systems
drainage, 29
drainpipes, defined, 124
drip edge flashing, 97
driveways, 12
dryers. See also clothes dryers
drywall, 21, 162
ducts
bathrooms, 35
clothes dryers and, 38–39
combustion air, 117
HVAC
bends in, 114–115
 connections/splices, 115
in garages, 21
installation requirements, 114
insulation/sealing, 115
support for, 114
HVAC appliances and size of, 112
kitchens, 36–37
duplexes, 8

E
edge spacing, defined, 68
egress doors, 30. See also escape openings
egress windows, 28, 75. See also escape openings
elastomeric gaskets, 142
electrical boxes
accessibility of, 202
for ceiling fans, 213
common inspection errors, 229
content limitations, 203
crowded, 229
in damp locations, 204
debris in, 229
fill chart, 204
installation specifications, 207
installation tolerances, 203
light fixture box installation, 202
non-metallic box installation, 202
open, 228
protecting cable through, 227
recessed, 228
securing cable to, 205, 225
shape of, 202
support of, 204–205
for switches, 211
 types of, 206
volume unit calculation, 203
in wet locations, 204
wire volume unit chart, 203
workable wire length in, 228
electrical panels. See service panels
electrical systems
aboveground electrical service, 178
approved wiring methods and uses, 190
current capacity requirements, 172
disconnecting service, 177
grounding electrodes, 184–185
grounding electrode wire installation, 186
identifying type of service, 178–179
service drop clearances, 180–181
term definition, 168–169
typical home, pictured, 170
underground service laterals, 179
underground water pipe electrodes, 185
unused openings, 172
See also branch circuits; circuit breakers; receptacles; service panels;
switches
electrical tape, 226, 227
electrical work
final inspections and, 13
permits and, 12
rough-in inspections, 15
electric radiant heating systems. See baseboard heaters
enclosures. See electrical boxes
endnailing, defined, 68
environmental loads, 44
escape openings
cripple walls and, 75
egress doors, 30
 egress windows, 28
ladders for, 29
locations for, 28
locks/bars and, 28
size of, 29
window wells and, 29
exhaust
bathrooms, 35
clothes dryers, 38–39
kitchens, 36
replacing range hood with microwaves, 37
exhaust ducts
bathrooms, 35
kitchens, 36–37
termination of, 37
exhaust fans
makeup air, 116
existing work, 11
extension rings, for electrical boxes, 228

F
facenailing, defined, 68
faceplates (switch), 211
fasteners, 52, 55, 101
fences, 12
FHA straps, 73
final inspections, 13
fireblocking, 65, 80–81
fireplaces
carbon monoxide (CO) alarms and, 41
clearance to trim/mantels, 102
combustion air for, 103
energy efficiency of wood-burning, 103
factory-built, 104
 gas, 104–105
hearth extensions and, 102
makeup air, 116
rain caps, 103
spark arrestors, 103
fire safety
drywall and, 21
fire resistant materials, 21
fire separation doors, 20
fire separation walls/ceilings, 21
garages and, 20
firestopping. See fireblocking
fittings
defined, 124
DWV
connections and joints, 141–143
descriptions, 138–139
direction changes, 140, 141
water closet connections, 137
elastomeric, 142–143
for toilets, 158–159
types of, 131, 132
fixture drains, defined, 125
fixtures (plumbing)
common vents, 151
cutoff valves, 134
defined, 124
drain slope, 149
individual vents, 150
island fixture vents, 152–153
tailpieces and, 137
water pressure at, 130
wet vents, 151–152
See also irrigation systems; showers; toilets; whirlpool tubs
flashing
decks and, 52, 57
kick-out flashing, 82, 101
plumbing vent termination and, 148
roof
chimney crickets (saddles), 100
closed-cut valley, 99
drip edge, 97
headwalls, 101
kick-out flashing, 101
step flashing, 100–101
vent flashing boots, 148
walls
door installation, 83
general requirements, 82
locations for, 82
window installation, 83
flexible water connectors, 132
flight of stairs, defined, 22
flooring, 58
floors, 80–81, 204
floor systems
beam types, 66
draftstopping, 66
framing of, 61
joists
attachment to beams, 63
blocking, 63
bridging, 64
lapping, 63
openings in, 64
span tables, 60–61
under load-bearing walls, 62–63
sheathing, 65
 trusses, notches and holes in, 67
food disposers, 160–161
footings
level forms, 47
preparing for inspections, 14
specifications for, 47
spread footings, 48
step footings, 48
foundations
anchors, 49
concrete specifications, 48
footing specifications, 47
soil and, 46
walls, 14
framing
cripple walls, 75
floor joist span tables, 60–61
maximum hole/notch size, 191
preparing for inspections, 15
protecting pipes in, 134
top and bottom plate construction, 73
wall stud size and spacing, 71–72
wood nailing definitions, 68
wood nailing requirements, 69–70
See also floor systems; roof systems; wall systems
freeze proof yard hydrants, 127, 134
furnaces
carbon monoxide (CO) alarms and, 41
combustion air needs, 116
gas, components of, 108
venting through chimney, 103
fuses
bypassed, 221
identifying use of, 172
 See also circuit breakers

G
garages
carbon monoxide (CO) alarms and, 41
concrete specifications, 48
defined, 20
fire resistant materials, 21
fire separation from home, 20
GFCI receptacles, 200
HVAC appliances in, 111
HVAC ducts in, 21
light fixtures required in, 212
pet doors, 20
pull-down stairs, 21
receptacles, 199
garbage disposals, 160–161
gas fireplaces, 104-105. See also fireplaces
gas work, 12
girders, 62
grounded, defined, 168
grounded wires
concrete encased, 185
defined, 168
neutral and, continuity, 176
service panels and, 183
switches and, 211
ground fault, defined, 168–169
ground-fault (GFCI) protection
location requirements, 200–201
whirlpool tubs and, 162
grounding
about, 182
antennas, 217
 broadband cable wiring, 219
ground fault diagram, 182
methods of for electrical equipment, 215
of second building feeder cable, 184
at service panels, 183
grounding electrodes
defined, 168
requirements, 184
rod and pipe, 185
underground water pipe, 185
grounding electrode wires
defined, 168
installation of, 186
requirements, 184
grounding wire, defined, 168
guards, stairway
for decks, 59
defined, 26
specifications for, 26–27
guest accommodations, owner occupied, 8

H
habitable rooms
area requirements for, 18
ceiling height, 18
defined, 18
light fixture requirements, 212
handrails
for decks, 59
final inspections and, 13
specifications for, 26–27
headers, 62
headwalls, 100
hearth extensions, 102
high-heel-inlet fitting, described, 139
high wind areas, 44, 52, 80
home offices, 8
hose bibbs, 130, 134
hot tubs
GFCI protection, 201
safety glazed glass and, 33
house numbers, display of, 31
hubs, defined, 125
hurricane ties, 44, 88
HVAC systems
about, 108
air conditioner, central
cleaning condensate discharge tubes, 113
components of, 108
condensate disposal, 112–113
airtight construction and, 117
appliances
combustion air and, 116–117
duct size and, 112
in garages, 111
vent caps, 121
vent clearances, 120
vent joints, 121
vent slopes, 121
vent types for, 119
baseboard heaters, 110
ducts
bends in, 114–115
connections/splices, 115
in garages, 21
installation requirements, 114
insulation/sealing, 115
support of, 114
 forced air heating systems, 109
gas furnace, 108–109
outdoor air, 115
return air, 115
work on
final inspections and, 13
permits and, 12
preparing for inspections, 15

I
ice dam areas, 98
indirect waste receptors, defined, 125
inlet fittings, described, 138–139
inspection errors
bonding jumper wire, 223
cables and, 223
electrical boxes, 227–229
receptacles and, 230–231
service panels and, 221–222
switches, 230–231
wiring connections, 226
inspections
concrete footings, 14
determining required, 13
electrical rough-in, 15
final, 13
foundation walls, 14
framing, 15
HVAC, 15
plumbing rough-in, 15
preparing for, 14–15
See also inspection errors
insulation, 93
insulation shields, 93
intermediate spacing, defined, 68
International Building Code (IBC), 7–8
International Code Council (ICC), 6
International Energy Conservation Code (IECC), 7
International Fuel Gas Code (IFG), 7
International Mechanical Code (IMC), 7
International Plumbing Code (IPC), 7
International Residential Code (IRC), 6–8
irrigation systems, 165
isolated footings, 14

J
joist hangers, 52, 55
joists
ceiling
attachment to rafters, 86–87
attic storage definitions and, 89
deflection, 90
rafter attachment fasteners, 88
span tables, 90–91
decks and, 53, 54–56
floor
beam attachment, 63
blocking, 63
bridging, 64
lapping, 63
notches/holes in, 67
openings in, 64
spacing and, 56
span tables, 60–61
under load-bearing walls, 62–63
maximum hole/notch size, 191
junction boxes. See electrical boxes

K
kitchen islands
island fixture vents, 152–153
receptacle installation, 198
kitchens
downdraft ventilation, 37
exhaust requirements, 36–37
island fixture vents, 152–153
receptacles
countertop installation, 197–198
GFCI, 200
island and peninsula installation, 198
replacing range hood with microwaves, 37
smoke alarms and, 40–41

L
ladders, 29
laminated glass, 32. See also safety glazing
landings
door, 31
stairway, 22, 25–26
landscaping, 13
laundry trays, defined, 125
laundry tubs, 130, 137
light fixtures
ceiling fans, 213
for closets, 214
in damp locations, 212–213
electrical box and, 202, 229
location requirements, 212
recessed, 212
supporting, 202, 212
in wet locations, 212–213
load
defined, 44
 roof definitions, 89
local codes, 6, 7
locations, damp, defined, 169
locations, wet, defined, 169
low-heel-inlet fittings, described, 138

M
main service panels
disconnecting service, 177
rust inside, 221
See also service panels
maintenance, 12
makeup air, 116
mantels, fireplace, 102
manufacturer’s instructions, 11
microwave ovens, 37
mildew, 34
mistakes. See inspections errors
moisture exhaust, 34
mold, 34
multiwire branch circuits, defined, 169

N
nail guards, 224
National Electrical Code (NEC)
about, 7
antennas and, 217
electrical boxes and, 202
inspections and, 220
nosing, defined, 22
notch, defined, 67, 74

O
O. C. (on center), defined, 68
occupancy changes, 12–13
office buildings, 8
offsets (plumbing), defined, 125
OSB panels, 65
outdoor air, 115
outdoor receptacles, 199, 200
outlets, defined, 169
overcurrent protection devices, defined, 169

P
pellet stoves, 103
permits
beginning work and, 12
building departments and, 9
contacting building departments for, 12
expiration of, 13
multiple regulatory departments and, 8
occupancy changes, 13
typical situations requiring, 12
pet doors, 20
PEX tubing
support for, 133
water heaters and, 157
pigtails, 176
pipes
ABS, joining, 142
DWV
connection and joints, 141–143
direction change fittings, 140–141
fitting definitions, 138–139
fittings for, 136
materials for, 135, 136
pictured, 135
pipe slope, 143
requirements for, 136
 size reduction, 143
support for, 133
grounding wire installation and, 186
joining different types of, 143
PVC plastic, joining, 142
sewer, 136
steel, joining, 142
water supply, 131
fittings for, 131, 132
joints and connectors, 132
protecting, 134
support for, 133
See also drain, waste, and vent (DWV) piping
planning departments, 8
plumbing
final inspections and, 13
permits and, 12
rough-in inspections, 15
plumbing systems
air gap terms, 164
cleanouts, 144–145
fitting types, 131
fixtures
cutoff valves, 134
slip joints and, 137
tailpieces and, 137
water flow at, 130
outlets, 134
pictured, 128
term definitions, 124–127
traps
about, 146
requirements for, 154
valves
 air admittance valves, 153
below ground, 134
fixtures and, 134
hose bibbs, 134
vents
air admittance valves, 153
common vents, 151
connection to drainage pipes, 147
crown venting, 147
developed length, 150
distance from trap, 149
fixture drain slope, 149
height minimums, 147
individual vents, 150
island fixture vents, 152–153
pipe size, 150
requirements for, 146
rough-ins for future fixtures, 147
slope, 146
support, 146
termination requirements, 148
vent configuration examples, 149–150
wet vents, 151–152
water pressure vs. flow, 130
See also drain, waste, and vent (DWV) piping; fittings; water supply
plywood, 65
point load, 44–45
porches
concrete specifications, 48
escape openings and, 28
pull-down stairs, 21
purlins, 85
push-in connectors, 174
R
raceways, 205. See also conduit
radio antennas. See antennas
rafters
attachment to ceiling joists, 86–88
attic storage definitions and, 89
collar ties and, 86
connection to walls, 88
deflection, 90
deflection under live load, 45
notches/holes in, 67
purlins and, 85
span tables, 90–91
types and requirements, 84–85
receptacles
arcing, 230
basement, 199
bathroom
branch circuits for, 188
sink installation, 199
common inspection errors, 221, 230–231
defined, 169
diagram of, 196
exterior, 199, 230
garages and accessory buildings, 199
GFCI protection locations, 200–201
grounding and, 215
installation requirements, 196
kitchen
countertop installation, 197–198
island and peninsula installation, 198
laundry
circuits for, 188
installation, 199
 non-grounding type, 196–197
overloaded, 230
polarized, 215
quantity on branch circuit, 189
tamper-resistant, 196
three-slot, 215
receptors (indirect waste), defined, 125
recessed light fixtures, 212
required inspections, 13
residential buildings, 8
retaining walls, 12
return air, 115
risers, 22, 24
roll roofing, 96
roofing
closed-cut valley, 99
fasteners for, 101
intersections with side walls, 100, 101
manufacturer’s instructions, 96
penetrations in, 100
roof deck and, 96–97
roof slope and, 96, 97–98
skylights, 100
underlayment requirements, 97–98
See also flashing
roof systems
attic storage definitions, 89
dead load and, 89
described, 84
live load and, 89
purlins, 85
rafter/ceiling joist deflection, 90
rafter to ceiling joist attachment, 86–88
rafter/truss attachment to walls, 88
 rafter types and requirements, 84–85
snow load and, 89
span tables for rafters/joists, 90–91
truss installations requirements, 92
truss repair/alteration, 92
See also attics; roofing
running boards, 195

S
saddle fittings, defined, 126
saddles, 100
safety
types of design considerations, 17
wiring and, 171
safety components, 13
safety glazing, 13, 32–33
sanitary tee fittings, described, 139
satellite dishes. See antennas
security systems, 41
seismic design areas, 44, 52, 80
service disconnecting switches, 177
service drop
clearances, 181
defined, 169
service entrance wires, defined, 169
service panels
clearances around, 172–173
common inspection errors, 221–222
components of, 208
connecting wires to terminals, 175
grounding and bonding at, 183
identifying circuits in, 172
multiwire branch circuits, 189
overloaded, 222
 prohibited locations, 172
rust inside, 221
securing cables to, 205
See also main service panel
sewer pipes, 136. See also drain, waste, and vent (DWV) piping
sheathing, floor, 65
showers
ceiling fans and, 213
cutoff valves, 134
design standards for, 19
receptor construction, 163
safety glazed glass and, 33
size of, 163
water flow at, 130
water supply riser, 163
sidewalks, 12
siding, 53
single-family houses, 8
sinks
common vents, 151
GFCI receptacles and, 201
individual vents, 150
island fixture vents, 152–153
receptacle installation for bathroom, 199
tailpieces and, 137
water flow at, 130
wet vents, 151–152
skylights, 100
slimline circuit breakers, 209
slip joints, 126, 137
smoke alarms, 13, 40–41
snow load, 89
soil, 46
soil (plumbing), defined, 126
soldering, defined, 126
solvent pipe cement, 142
spark arrestors, 103
spa tubs, 201
spread footings, 48
sprinkler systems. See irrigation systems
stack (plumbing), defined, 126
stack vent, defined, 126
stairways
for decks, 58–59
definitions of terms, 22, 26
exterior, 22, 23
final inspections and, 13
fireblocking and, 80
guard specifications, 26–27
handrail specifications, 26–27
headroom height, 25
interior, 22, 23
landing specifications, 25–26
light fixture requirements, 212
pull-down, 21
riser specifications, 25
safety glazing and, 33
tread specifications, 24–25
width of, 23
winder tread specifications, 25
standpipes, defined, 127
state codes, 6
steam rooms, 33
step footings, 48
stop-and-waste valves
defined, 127
for hose bibbs, 134
stories, above grade, 8
street fittings, described, 139
stringers, 59
subfloors, 65, 70
subpanels
components of, 209
grounding/bonding at, 183
See also service panels
sweep fittings, described, 139
swimming pools, 33
switches
common inspection errors, 231
faceplate installation, 211
grounding, 211
height of, 211
load limitations, 210
mounting in electrical boxes, 211
orientation of, 210
single pole, pictured, 210
three-way and four-way, 211
timer, 211
in wet locations, 211

T
tailpieces (plumbing), defined, 127
tee fittings, 139
television antennas. See antennas
tempered glass, 32. See also safety glazing
toenailing, defined, 68
toilets
backflow protection of fill valves, 159
closet flanges, 159
components of, 158
installation requirements, 158
townhouses, 8
T&P valves, 156
traps (plumbing)
about, 146
defined, 127
requirements for, 154
trap weirs, 147
treads, 22, 24–25
tubing, 194
tubs. See bathtubs
type X drywall, 21

U
ufers, 185
underlayment, roof, 97–98
ungrounded conductors, defined, 169
Uniform Plumbing Code (UPC), 7
utility rooms, 111

V
vehicle tire stops, 111
vent flashing boots, 148
ventilation
crawlspaces and, 50–51
fuel-burning appliances, 119–121
for gas fireplaces, 105
plumbing system
air admittance valves, 153
common vents, 151
connection to drainage pipes, 147
crown venting, 147
developed length, 150
distance from trap, 149
fixture drain slope, 149
height minimums, 147
individual vents, 150
 island fixture vents, 152–153
pictured, 128
pipe size, 150
requirements for, 146
rough-ins for future fixtures, 147
slope, 146
support, 146
termination requirements, 148
vent configuration examples, 149–150
wet vents, 151–152
replacing range hood with microwaves, 37
ventilation fans
bathrooms, 35
kitchens, 36–37
labels, 35
protecting, 35
vents (plumbing), defined, 127
vent stacks, defined, 127
volume unit calculation, 203

W
wall braces
defined, 77
fastening, 77
length requirements, 77–78
methods of creating, 77
number of, 78
simple wall bracing, 78–79
wood structural panels and, 77–78, 80
walls
braced, defined, 76
concrete, 14
deflection/load table, 45
electrical box support in, 204
 fireblocking locations, 80
fire separation, 21
floor joists under load-bearing, 62–63
foundation, 14
interior, spread footings for, 48
maximum hole/notch size, 191
rafter connection to, 88
stud size and spacing, 72
wall systems
cripple walls, 75
stud hole and notches, 74, 191
stud size and spacing, 71–72
top and bottom plate construction, 73
wood grades, 71
wood nailing definitions, 68
wood nailing requirements, 69–70
See also wall braces
washers. See clothes washers
waste (plumbing), defined, 127
water-hammer arrestors, 161
water heaters
combustion air needs, 116
drip pans for, 157
in garages, 111
PEX connections, 157
prohibited locations, 155
relief (T&P) valves, 156
relief valve discharge pipe, 156
venting through chimney, 103
water meters, 223
water supply
backflow prevention, 164
lines, pictured, 128, 129
pipes
 flexible water connectors, 132
joints and connections, 132
protecting, 134
support for, 133
types of, 129, 131
pressure min/max, 130
water pressure vs. flow, 130
water vapor, 34
wet locations, 33, 169
whirlpool tubs
GFCI protection, 201
requirements for, 162
safety glazed glass and, 33
winder treads, 22, 25
windows
air leakage requirements, 117
egress, 29
escape openings, 28–29
fall protection, 33
flashing requirements, 82–83
opening distance restriction, 33
safety glazing and, 32–33
window wells, 29
wire connectors, 174, 226
wires
aluminum/copper splices, 174
bonding jumper, 223
color codes, 176
connecting to terminals, 175
connectors for, 174
damaged, 227
length of extending from boxes, 175
length of within boxes, 228
neutral and grounding wire continuity, 176
 protection in attics, 195
protection in basements, 195
recognizing aluminum, 222
size chart, 176
splicing, 174
support of, 194
wood structural panels, 77–78, 80
wye fittings, described, 139

Y
yard hydrants (freeze proof), defined, 127

Z
zoning departments, 8, 12
zoning ordinances, 8
First published in 2015 by Cool Springs Press, an imprint of Quarto Publishing Group USA Inc., 400
First Avenue North, Suite 400, Minneapolis, MN 55401

© 2015 Quarto Publishing Group USA Inc.

All rights reserved. With the exception of quoting brief passages for the purposes of review, no part
of this publication may be reproduced without prior written permission from the Publisher.

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Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data

Barker, Bruce A.
Codes for homeowners : electrical, mechanical, plumbing, building, current with 2015-2017 codes /
by Bruce A. Barker.
pages cm.
At head of title: Black & Decker.
Summary: "Detailed step-by-step photos and how-to information explaining the current codes
necessary for homeowners to follow when doing home remodeling or improvement"-- Provided by
publisher.
ISBN 978-1-59186-906-1 (paperback)
1. House construction--Standards--Popular works. 2. Building laws--United States--Popular works.
3. Dwellings--Maintenance and repair--Pictorial works I. Title. II. Title: Black & Decker codes for
homeowners.

TH4815.5.B365 2015
690’.8021873--dc23
2014038250

Digital edition: 978-1-62788-605-5

Softcover edition: 978-1-59186-906-1

Acquisitions Editor: Mark Johanson

Design Manager: Brad Springer
Layout: Danielle Smith-Boldt
Author: Bruce Barker
Illustration: Bruce Barker
Additional Illustration: Mark Abdellah
Photography: Rau + Barber
Photo Assistance: Jon Hegge
Cover Photo: Rau + Barber

Codes for Homeowners

Created by: The Editors of Cool Springs Press, in cooperation with BLACK+DECKER.
BLACK+DECKER and the BLACK+DECKER logo are trademarks of The Black & Decker
Corporation and are used under license. All rights reserved.

NOTICE TO READERS
For safety, use caution, care, and good judgment when following the
procedures described in this book. The publisher and
BLACK+DECKER cannot assume responsibility for any damage to
property or injury to persons as a result of misuse of the information
provided.
The techniques shown in this book are general techniques for
various applications. In some instances, additional techniques not
shown in this book may be required. Always follow manufacturers’
instructions included with products, since deviating from the directions
may void warranties. The projects in this book vary widely as to skill
levels required: some may not be appropriate for all do-it-yourselfers,
and some may require professional help.
Consult your local building department for information on building
permits, codes, and other laws as they apply to your project.