instructables

Awesome CNC Table

by Cactus workshop

Hey there!
I designed this little table in Fusion360 to practice modelling and adjusting non-square box-joints in CNC and it
worked out so great in plywood that I had to share!

This was cut with an X-Carve and I made a video that includes all steps from calibration to finishing. Take a look if
you like! But of course, you don't need a CNC to cut the parts, you can make this even with a scrollsaw!

In any case, these are a few options to adapt or adopt my design:

Here is the model in Fusion 360 if you want to take a look or customize it!
I also luploaded the drawings in svg format in the Inventables project page so you can modify or
scale them. Keep in mind though that the box joints are adjusted for 8mm plywood and they might
not line up properly if another material thickness is used.
If you are planning on using an X-Carve to cut it, you can just open the project already set up and
click carve!

So, list of materials:

8mm plywood, at least 75x75cm, but you can use scraps, the separate pieces are not big :)
Cutting thingie: ideally a CNC, but of course a bandsaw, scrollsaw or even a coping saw will do!
Hand files: A "triangle" one is recommended to adjust the fingers
Others: Wood glue, sandpaper / orbital sander, x-acto knife, paint, varnish...

Let's begin!

https://youtu.be/uLt75V-iE_E

Awesome CNC Table: Page 1

I started playing with Fusion360 for the first time. It's eachother, there is a bit of interference in the back (or
so cool! So I made 3 main pieces, (top, leg and the inside of the table) and a little bit of material has
"apron") and put them together in the assembly. to be filed down after cutting, but no worries! it works
just fine :)
As I mentioned I used 8mm plywood so I adjusted the
box-joints to match that thickness. In this link you can Another feature to keep in mind if you are gonna use
access the project and modify it, or scale it if you a CNC is leaving some "Indents" or "undercuts" or
have a different thickness board. "dogbones" in the inside corners of the pieces. The
router bit will eat a bit more material in those places
I wanted the edges of the table to be visually so assembly is straight forward. If these weren't there,
continuous from top to bottom so I designed the you would have to file down every corner, since the
boxjoints so that the edges of the mating pieces router bit leaves a radious and not a straight edge. In
would form those outlines eventhough the interlocking my case these "dogbones" are meant to be cut with a
fingers at 45º leave some gaps in both faces. As a 1/16 router bit
result, and because the faces are not square to

1. Continuous edge from top to bottom!

Awesome CNC Table: Page 2

1. Interference areas

Step 2: Cut Your Pieces!

In my case, I used an X-Carve, but any kind of saw and some sanding would do the same work :)

I used a 1/16 downcut bit to make sure I didn't have any tearout. After cutting, I had to remove the pieces from the
plywood sheet, cutting the tabs and then sand them flush. These tabs are meant to keep the pieces in place after
they are cut, so they don't move around and are bit by the router again.

1. 1/16 downcut bit

Awesome CNC Table: Page 3

1. Remove tabs from the CNC 1. Cut the tabs to break the piece loose

Step 3: Prepare the Mitered Box Joints

As I mentioned, after cutting you will still have to file in both the leg and the apron so they have more glue
down some small areas of the box joints since it is surface.
indeed a double bevel joint. No worries though, just a
little bit here and there. The model is a good Don't worry, this is not complicated, it requires a bit of
reference to visualize the interference but you can thinking and then all the joints in the project are the
just position the legs using a square to keep them same!
vertical, and file down the "aprons" until they fit. I
recommend filing down the same amount of material

1. Detail of the interference area in the CAD

Awesome CNC Table: Page 4

1. Use squares to test the dry-fit

Step 4: Glue Up!

I suggest you start glueing the legs using a square to keep them vertical and then, once they are dry, the aprons
just fall into place easily.

There is a lot of glue surface so plan the glue up before applying the glue and have the clamps on hand! I used a
box to make sure my legs were square.

1. glue :D
2. Masking tape on the box I used as square to prevent glueing it to the
table :D

Awesome CNC Table: Page 5

The finger joint is designed so that after glue up the is 100% assured and the results are super neat. You
finges are a bit proud of the surface. Now it's time to can also use a file but you need to have a good eye
sand them down so the faces look neat! so you don't sand more than needed or leave curvy
edges, since you are sanding endgrain and it is not
I glued a piece of sandpaper to a board and moved as stable as I'd like.
the joint areas along the sandpaper. This way flaness

1. Fingers are a bit proud

1. move back and forth of course!

Awesome CNC Table: Page 6

As you might have noticed, I painted the inside edges green before glue up, but that was just my personal touch.
You can paint it or just apply some varnish.

My tip here! If you are going to paint the inside edges, just stack the pieces together. That way you just have to
mask 2 faces instead of 8!

And that's all! Enjoy your table!!

1. Fancy neat!

Awesome CNC Table: Page 7