5.

Case Study Of The Textile Industry In Tirupur

5.1 Background

A
S OUR CAR bounced along the narrow pot-holed road to Tirupur, a sign
Welcome to Banian City greeted us. Banian is the local name for the
white vests used mostly by men in India. This sign described what was
in store for us in Tirupur. There does not seem to be any activity in the town that
is not directly or indirectly connected with the manufacture and sale of banians
and T-shirts.
The whole world appeared to have discovered Tirupur in the early nineties. The
success story of Tirupur, the new boom town, had spread all over. Suddenly many
international agencies began to take notice of this little town in the state of Tamil
Nadu in the south of India.
We had decided to conduct an Industrial Ecology study in Tirupur. The purpose of
the study was to see how to apply the concepts of Industrial Ecology in a developing
country, where the pattern of industrialization was vastly different from that of a
developed country.
As we first drove into the town, we wondered what made this place such a success
story. The narrow streets were crowded and hardly well laid. There were open
drains running along the sides of the roads, carrying filthy, colored water. An
assortment of vehicles, trucks, hand carts and bullock carts with their assorted
loads of cargo, clogged the streets. Smoldering garbage was dumped on both sides
of the road and the stench was hardly bearable. Through one such narrow street
we approached our first point of call, which was the Tirupur Exporters’ Association
(TEA). The moment we entered the building of TEA, we started to notice the
efficiency which makes Tirupur successful. Professional, well-trained staff mans
the plush office. The building itself has all the facilities that an exporter would
require, including a well-equipped conference room.
 CASE STUDY OF THE TEXTILE INDUSTRY IN TIRUPUR 45

Roads in India
The roads in India leave much to be desired. Transport on
the roads can be time consuming. All kinds of vehicles,
including the ubiquitous bullock-cart, are used as transport
vehicles on the roads (including on the highways).

When we met the secretary, he told us straight away

A typical street in Tirupur that dozens of such studies had been conducted by
various agencies and he did not see any point in
further studies being carried out. Many national and international agencies had
been conducting studies on waste minimization technologies. Other than this,
Tirupur had been the subject of many technical and socio-economic studies in
the past. However, since we were very keen on going ahead with the study, he
offered all assistance. Through TEA, we were introduced to many of the leading
industrialists in Tirupur, who had been witness to the phenomenal growth of the
town.

5.2 The Study in Tirupur

The study was carried out in the year 1996. All the data and estimates pertain to
the year 1995. Tirupur, chosen as a sample town, represented a typical industry
pattern in developing countries with many small and micro enterprises involved
in an industrial activity.
A lot of attention has been given to the industrial symbiosis model in Kalundborg
(Denmark), where a few disparate large units have worked out an effective system
to optimize the use of their material and energy resources (as described in
Chapter 1). The industrial pattern in Tirupur is very unlike Kalundborg. Tirupur
has a large number of small and medium units engaged in similar activities, a
pattern much more representative of a developing country.
Small-scale sector policy

The declared policy of the Government was to encourage the small-scale sector as it was
expected that the employment generation of the small sector was much greater than
that of the large units. The sector has always been exempted from many of the licensing
procedures. The small-scale units also enjoy many tax concessions.
 46 CASE STUDY OF THE TEXTILE INDUSTRY IN TIRUPUR

5.2.1 Preparing a Framework

When Tirupur was chosen, no specific format was available for carrying out
the study. The object was to explore how to apply the concepts of Industrial Ecology
in a developing country. Our idea was that we needed to start looking at possibilities
for building linkages between different industries as was done in Kalundborg or as
was being experimented in some parts of North America. When the study began,
we realized that this was much more difficult than we had imagined. Unlike the
half-a-dozen industries in Kalundborg, Tirupur had nearly 4000! Even to start
looking for partners who would be interested in forming linkages to share their
wastes was a major task. Secondly, the scales of operation of most of the units
were extremely small. Hence for any individual unit to make major investments
in any recycling systems would not prove economical. Thirdly, the industries
tend to be extremely secretive about their operations, as they do not wish that any
information about their business should reach enforcement authorities of the
Government. We faced a great deal of difficulty collecting any information other
than from published sources. The only details available pertained to value of sales
and were available with the Export Promotion Council. As a next step, we tried to
meet the major industrial units and the heads of the different industries’
associations in the town, to understand what they perceived as their problems.
The tax system in India

The taxation system in India is quite complex. Other than income tax, there is a variety of
indirect taxation on manufactured goods. There is the Central Excise (or production tax),
the state sales tax and an octroi in many towns (collected by the local municipality). The
procedures for paying the taxes and the system of checking compliance are cumbersome.
The taxation in India has been marginally lowered over the years. Till a few years ago,
the rates of taxation were extremely high. Coupled with so many restrictions on local
and international trade, the parallel economy (the black market) thrived.
Note: In the last few years, the economy in India has been greatly liberalized, with the
lowering of certain taxes.

Other than listing out hundreds of problems with the bureaucracy and making
out a case for greater support from the Government, there did not appear to be
any perceived problem. Oh, yes, there is also a lot of harassment from the Pollution
 CASE STUDY OF THE TEXTILE INDUSTRY IN TIRUPUR 47

Control Board, which is needlessly making us spend millions, was the constant
refrain. In any case this problem also appeared to have been solved, by the
industries becoming members of the Common Effluent Treatment Plant Scheme.
At the end of the first month of the study, we were still struggling to collect useful
data. The figures of water consumption and production, which were collected by
us from different sources, also appeared to vary greatly.
We then decided that we should get a good idea of the activities of the town and
we chose to make a rough assessment of the materials flowing through it, at least
to understand what was happening in the area. As a first step, a fact file on the
town was prepared.

5.3 Tirupur Fact File

5.3.1 History of Tirupur
The textile boom in Tirupur is recent. Tirupur used to be a center for cotton
trading a few decades ago. Over the years a few small units were established to
manufacture banians. It was said that the water in Tirupur was of such good
quality that the banians made here were the whitest of them all. The fact that the
town was located so close to Coimbatore, which was an established textile
manufacturing and trading center, ensured that adequate skills were available.
This business grew steadily. It was only in the early 1980s that some enterprising
businessman got the idea that the same facilities could be used to manufacture
colored T-shirts, which had become a rage all over the world.

5.3.2 Tirupur and its Industry

Tirupur is a relatively small town in the Coimbatore district of Tamil Nadu. It
has a resident population of around 300,000. An additional 200,000 people come
in from nearby towns to work in Tirupur’s booming textile industry. The rainfall
in the area is low and erratic. The groundwater in most parts of the town is now
polluted through years of effluent discharge by the textile industry.
The entire town’s economic activity is centered on the manufacture of cotton
knitwear: for use as banians (mostly sold in the Indian market), and for use as T-
shirts (mostly exported).
48 CASE STUDY OF THE TEXTILE INDUSTRY IN TIRUPUR

Table 5.1: Textile Industry Output of Tirupur for the Year 1994–1995

Value (US $ million) Weight (Tonnes)

Exports 685.71 71,600

Domestic 142.85 50,000

Total 828.56 121,600

In 1995, the annual value of production in Tirupur was estimated at US$ 828 million
of which goods worth US$ 686 million were exported, mostly to the USA and
Europe. This corresponds to an annual production of 121,600 tonnes of fabric (in
the form of T-shirts for export and undershirts, which are mainly sold in the
domestic market). The average price of a T-shirt at the factory gate is around
US$ 2. The annual estimated output of the town is given in Table 5.1.

Table 5.2: Breakdown of Units in the Textile Industry of Tirupur

Activity Number of Units

Knitting 650

Bleaching 400
Dyeing 300
Steam Calendering 150
Finishing 2,000
Printing 300
Miscellaneous 200

Total 4,000
Source: Tirupur Exporters’ Association.

There are an estimated 4,000 small and medium units in the town which specialize
in different aspects of the production process such as knitting, bleaching, dyeing,
calendering, finishing and printing. Table 5.2 gives the estimated numbers of the
 CASE STUDY OF THE TEXTILE INDUSTRY IN TIRUPUR 49

F I G U R E 5.1

Transaction Pattern in Tirupur

EXPORTER

Knitting Finishing

Calen-
Bleaching
dering
Dyeing

units involved in these activities. Accurate figures are not available as many of
these units are very small or in the cottage sector and are not registered with any
statutory authorities. There are very few integrated manufacturing units in Tirupur,
with all the activities under one roof. The absence of many large integrated units
is partly due to the current government policy and the regulatory framework,
which encourages the small-scale sector.
Tirupur is a job working center and not a brand exporter. This means that most of
the exporters take up job work for brand marketers in developed countries and do
not sell their own brands. This also means that the buyer in Europe or the USA
can easily change his source of supply. Hence, the contact that the exporter has
with the buyer is the most important business asset. This makes the exporter,
who may have no manufacturing facility, the key player in the industry. Often,
 50 CASE STUDY OF THE TEXTILE INDUSTRY IN TIRUPUR

the exporter will buy the yarn and have the material processed by any of the
jobbers in the town. The exporter may also have processing facilities. The pattern
of transactions can be represented as in Figure 5.1.

5.3.3 Infrastructure
A view of the town does not give any indication of its prosperity. The power
supply is erratic and the town is prone to frequent blackouts. A majority of the
industrial units have diesel generators to provide stand-by power. The piped water
supply is hardly adequate and the limited water is insufficient even for household
requirements. There is no underground sewerage system. The industrial effluents
are carried through open drains into a dry river called Noyel, which cuts through
the town. The wastewater is carried to a reservoir built for irrigation purposes,
about 15 km away. During its journey to the reservoir, a part of the wastewater
permeates through the soil and contaminates the groundwater. Like in most parts
of India, the piped water supply is very inexpensive, at around five US cents per
cubic meter.
In an attempt to overcome the scarcity of water in the town, the New Tirupur
Area Development Corporation Ltd (an organization set up in the mid-1990s to
improve the infrastructure in Tirupur), is working on an ambitious plan to lay
pipelines to bring water from the Cauvery river (nearly 70 km away). This would
provide a cheap and plentiful supply of water to Tirupur for its domestic and
industrial needs.
Water issues

Many urban centers in India do not have piped

water supply. Much of the population has to
collect water from streams or groundwater
sources. In many parts of the country, especially
for industrial use, the factories transport water
in tankers from groundwater sources nearby.
The underground sewerage system covers only
a small part of the population. Relatively few
Women in Tirupur waiting
towns in the country have an underground sewerage system. for water
 CASE STUDY OF THE TEXTILE INDUSTRY IN TIRUPUR 51

5.3.4 Government Policy and the Regulatory Framework

Till a few years ago, the large industry in India was governed by an elaborate
licensing procedure. The government has always encouraged the small-scale sector,
which has never needed more than a formal registration. Incentives like low interest
loans and concessions in production and sales taxes are available to the small
industry. The criterion for qualifying as a small-scale industry traditionally has
been the total investment in plant and machinery and not the total
production value.
India has a complex bureaucratic system and the industry is answerable to a
number of Government agencies. This includes having to file periodic statements
with different agencies. The small units fall outside the ambit of many government
agencies. For instance, if a unit employs less than a specified number of persons,
it falls outside the purview of the Factories Inspectorate, which specifies elaborate
safety standards.
It is probably because of these considerations, that the small (but very prosperous)
units stay small. Growth of a unit takes the form of a new firm being established.
For example, if a garment manufacturer wants to increase production, he would
establish a new firm and hire people accordingly. The value of equipment bought
in the new firm would be small enough for qualification as a small-scale industry.
In the recent years, the Government of India has laid down elaborate standards
for industrial effluents. In India, the responsibility for management of the
environment is divided between the central and the state governments. The Central
Pollution Control Board and the Ministry of Environment of the central government
make policy, set standards and monitor their implementation at a national level.
The State Pollution Control Boards, which operate administratively under the state
governments, are entrusted with the job of implementing the standards laid down.
These boards carry out the regular monitoring of industries in India. These state
agencies have wide powers to penalize offenders, including ordering the closure
of manufacturing units.
The regulatory authorities have been active in implementing the standards, and
in the recent past the law courts have been very active in giving priority to
environment-related cases. Some of the High Courts in the states have a special
Green Bench to deal exclusively with these matters.
 52 CASE STUDY OF THE TEXTILE INDUSTRY IN TIRUPUR

The first awakening to environmental issues in India effectively came in the 1970s with
the enactment of the Water Act and the Air Act, which laid down standards of emissions
for release into water and air respectively. This legislation was not adequate to cover
pollutants (mostly solid wastes and lagooned wastewater) dumped on the ground. Further
much more comprehensive legislation was enacted in the late 1980s (which is yet to be
effectively implemented).
A large-scale environmental consciousness is yet to take root in the country although a
number of NGOs are doing a commendable job in taking up such causes. The law courts
are also taking serious note of cases concerning environmental issues.

5.3.5 Industry and Production Processes

There are six production processes involved in the manufacture of knitted
garments:
Knitting: Knitting is the first step, in which, the fabric is made from yarn. The
output is in the form of a hose.
Scouring: The knitted fabrics are scoured in a bleaching or dyeing unit by boiling
with caustic soda in open tanks. The fabric is then washed in freshwater.
Bleaching: Figure 5.2 gives the process chart of the bleaching operation. Bleaching
is done manually, or mechanically in a winch.
Dyeing: Figure 5.2 gives the details of the dyeing process.
Calendering: After bleaching/dyeing, the fabric is passed through steam heated
rollers in the steam calendering machines.
Finishing: After calendering, the fabric is ready to be made into garments in the
finishing units. These units use electrically operated stitching machines and electric
irons. Some of the processes like embroidery require sophisticated computer
controlled machines.
 CASE STUDY OF THE TEXTILE INDUSTRY IN TIRUPUR 53

F I G U R E 5.2
The Bleaching and Dyeing Processes

Grey Grey Grey

Hosiery Hosiery Hosiery
Hydrogen
Peroxide
Soap Washing
Peroxide Kerning
Bleaching

Rinsing

Hot Washing Washing

Dyeing
Bleaching
Powder
Washing
Washing Bleaching

Steaming

Acid Washing Washing

Washing

Washing Acid Washing Acid Washing

Washing
Washing
Peroxide
Bleached Fixing &
Hosiery Softening

Hand
Bleached Dyed
Hosiery Hosiery
 54 CASE STUDY OF THE TEXTILE INDUSTRY IN TIRUPUR

5.4 Findings of the Resource Flow Analysis (RFA)

Once the fact file was prepared, an attempt was made to prepare an RFA for the
town of Tirupur.
The material flow for each industry segment (knitting, bleaching, dyeing,
calendering, finishing and printing) was estimated independently, using the
method described in the section Methodology (Annex 5.1 at the end of this chapter).
The results were integrated to arrive at the resource flows for the entire town. The
results of the Resource Flow Analysis (RFA) for the town are presented in Figure 5.3
and the salient features are summarized in a box on the following page.
For ready reference, the resource flows through all major segments of the industry
are provided in Annex 5.2 at the end of this chapter.
Based on the figures and the various pieces of information about the industry and
the business environment that we had collected, an attempt was made to document
and draw inferences from the Resource Flows. An outline of what, in our opinion,
were the major issues in Tirupur, was also prepared.
 CASE STUDY OF THE TEXTILE INDUSTRY IN TIRUPUR 55

F I G U R E 5.3
Resource Flows for Tirupur Town

160,265 Yarn
90,120 Water
62,530 Electrical Energy
437,760 Firewood
49,862 Chemicals
1,470 Dyes/Inks
3,545 Packing Material, Plastic
20,250 Packing Material, Paper
160,265 Yarn
2,432 Thread

54,492 Solid Waste Unused

to MSW Resource
KNITTING BLEACHING 2,430
Plastic
DYEING CALENDERING 25,532 To
Cloth
20 Re-use
FINISHING PRINTING Metal
87,500 Water Unused
to Drain Resource

121,600 Tonnes of Fabric

608 Million Pieces/Year

Units
Electrical Energy: thousand kWh/year
Finished Product Water: thousand liters/day
Others: tonnes/year
 56 CASE STUDY OF THE TEXTILE INDUSTRY IN TIRUPUR

5.4.1 The Salient Features of the Resource Flow Analysis

• The industry in Tirupur consumes 90,120 cubic meters of water every day (i.e.
90.12 million liters/day) that equals the average water supply to an Indian town with a
population of over 2 million people.
• The area is dry. Most of the groundwater is polluted and unusable.
• More than half this quantity of water is brought to the town by trucks from distances of
over 50 km at a total estimated cost of US$ 6 million per year.
• The wastewater containing dyes and chemicals is discharged untreated into a dry river.
• The town consumes 62,530,000 kWh (i.e. 62.5 million kWh) of electrical energy per year,
including the power generated by diesel generators. (Most units have diesel generators to
overcome the erratic power supply.) No estimates are available of the diesel consumed.
• Nearly half a million tonnes (437,760 tonnes) of firewood, chopped from the nearby forests,
are needed annually for the steam calendering, bleaching and dyeing operations.
• Almost fifty thousand tonnes (49,862 tonnes) of chemicals other than dyes are consumed
annually. The majority of the reacted chemicals are discharged through the
untreated wastewater.
• Around fifteen hundred tonnes (1,470 tonnes) of dyes are used annually, of which an
estimated 292 tonnes find their way into the wastewater (i.e. almost 1 tonne of dyes per
day).
• An estimated 3,171 tonnes of paper waste, 9,430 tonnes of textiles waste (rags and
threads) and 59.25 tonnes of plastic wastes are contributed annually by the industry to
the municipal solid waste (MSW). In addition to these combustible wastes, over 40,000
tonnes of ash is also disposed of. In total, the industry contributes 56,492 tonnes annually
to the MSW.
• In addition, an estimated 91,250 tonnes of domestic solid waste are generated annually.
Both the industrial and municipal wastes lie littered, untreated all over the town.
• An estimated 2,430 tonnes of plastics and 25,532 tonnes of waste rags, and 20 tonnes
of metals are collected annually, and taken out of the town for reuse or recycling. No
information is available on the fate of these resources.
 CASE STUDY OF THE TEXTILE INDUSTRY IN TIRUPUR 57

5.5 Major issues in Tirupur

5.5.1 Water
As is apparent from Figure 5.3, water is a major requirement of the industry.
As the area is dry and much of the groundwater is polluted, over half the water
required by the industry is brought in by trucks from groundwater sources at
distances of over 50 km. The industry pays around US$ 6 million annually to
bring the water by trucks (which amounts to almost US$ 1 per cubic meter against
a much lower price of just US$ 0.05 in many parts of India). In addition, the lure
of quick money tempts small farmers who still have access to uncontaminated
groundwater sources to sell water to the industry instead of using it for farming.
The other half of the water requirement is met from the few bore-wells where
water is still of good quality. However, the groundwater table is going down rapidly
and even these sources will soon not be available. The industrial effluents are
drained out untreated into a dry river. The effluents accumulate at a reservoir,
built originally for irrigation, around 15 km away. A substantial part of the effluent
leaches into the ground through its passage to the reservoir. The water is saline,
highly colored and contains toxic dyes. The entire agricultural operations in the
neighborhood have been badly affected by the groundwater contamination.
Under pressure from the regulatory authorities, it is planned to set up nine
traditional common effluent treatment plants (CETP) at an estimated cost of US$
30 million including the cost of piping the effluents. The recurring costs of over
US$ 7.5 million per annum for operation and maintenance would be extra. The
design of the CETPs is primarily aimed at reducing the biological and chemical
oxygen demand (BOD and COD) of the effluents. But the effluents after treatment
may continue to contain toxic chemicals and will also be very saline. Due to this,
the post-treatment effluents will not be usable for agriculture or for industry, and
obviously not for domestic use also.

5.5.2 Firewood
The consumption of firewood by the industry is over 437,760 tonnes per year.
The firewood is brought in by the felling of trees from the nearby Nilgiri Hills
(part of the Western Ghats mountain range, about 100 km from Tirupur). The
wood cover in the Nilgiri Hills is rapidly depleting. The steam calendering industry
 58 CASE STUDY OF THE TEXTILE INDUSTRY IN TIRUPUR

uses over half of this quantity, for steam generation. The bleaching and dyeing
industry uses the rest. The firewood is used in inefficient boilers at 850 different
production centers. It would be possible to substantially reduce the consumption
by improving the design of the boilers. A central steam generating system could
also be considered. Alternatively, a system of substitution of the fuel could be
worked out—such as pre-heating with solar energy, substitution with treated
municipal waste, etc.

5.5.3 Solid waste

Nearly 40 tonnes of combustible solid waste is generated every day by the
textile industry. This comprises paper and textile scrap (rags and threads). This
has a high fuel value. In addition, an estimated 250 tonnes per day of municipal
waste is generated by the households.
The possibility of utilizing the fuel value of this waste could also be considered.
These industrial and municipal wastes presently lie littered over the town,
untreated and unused. Using the heat value of the waste would also help in reducing
the consumption of firewood.

5.6 Direct Outcome of the Study

When the results were presented to the various industry associations, it came as
quite a surprise to them. Till the numbers were aggregated, the magnitude of
resources flowing through the system was not obvious to them. The total price
paid for the different materials by the industry, as a whole, was also not obvious.
Each small industrialist was paying a small amount for buying water every day
and the costs had been internalized into the costing. Hence, the fact that such
large quantities of water were being used in the town and given that such large
amounts of money were being spent on water by the industry came as an
eye-opener.
Based on the presentation of the results, it was obvious that water recycling could
be both an economically viable option and a solution to the environmental
problems, as a first step.
A private entrepreneur came forward to explore the business opportunity that
this water recycling presented. Initially, the idea was to set up a water factory,
 CASE STUDY OF THE TEXTILE INDUSTRY IN TIRUPUR 59

which would take in the effluent from the industry and sell back the recycled
purified water to the manufacturing units. After considerable work, this was not
found to be economically feasible, because the cost of recycling the highly saline
water would be high, as the process would be energy intensive.
As an alternative, the entrepreneur explored the possibility of using the waste
heat from the boilers in the dyeing units to serve as the energy source, to recycle
the wastewater. Development work was immediately started on this and a prototype
was ready in six months. A commercial plant was readied for marketing and its
use is now proliferating. By the last quarter of the year 2000, over 40 plants had
been installed.
Entrepreneurs are also looking at the possibility of setting up central steam units
with solar preheating as a commercial proposition. This facility may also use the
high heat value of the municipal solid waste in the town.
Local entrepreneurs are looking at the possibility of using the municipal solid
waste as a source of fuel to replace firewood as the waste has a high calorific
value.
For the time being, pollution prevention and cleaner production approaches, such
as cultivating colored cotton, natural dyes, and water minimisation, have not been
considered as immediate solutions. Although promising, these approaches are
very unlikely to be adopted on a large scale by the industry in the near future. In
developing countries like India, where both agriculture and industry tend to be
carried out by fragmented small players, there is a great reluctance to try new
methods which often require substantial capital investment and may be risky,
even more so in the context of increasing competition from neighboring countries.

5.6.1 Perspectives for Business and Planning

As it is today, the Tirupur industrial system is obviously not sustainable. It is
characterized by heavy pollution, misuse and depletion of critical resources like
land/soil, firewood and water. High flows of materials passing rapidly through the
system and absence of materials loops makes this industrial cluster a good example
of a typical unsustainable ecosystem. Unfortunately, as mentioned above, the
proposed end-of-pipe (CETP) approach is not likely to improve the situation in
60 CASE STUDY OF THE TEXTILE INDUSTRY IN TIRUPUR

the near future. On the other hand, the RFA study of Tirupur quickly pointed to
new, simple and effective solutions.
In the perspective of Industrial Ecology, planners could play a crucial role in
preventing potential disasters. RFA studies of different activity groups, aggregated
to provide an overall picture of material flows in a region, would allow planners to
consider promotion of industries in specific sectors that would optimize the use of
critical resources, and guide the development of a region towards sustainability.
 CASE STUDY OF THE TEXTILE INDUSTRY IN TIRUPUR 61

Annex 5.1
Methodology Adopted for the Assessment of Resource Flow
Flowss
The study team collected the data between January and June 1996.

The exercise of data collection was quite a challenge as reliable data was not easily available.

Potential Sources of Data

The Industry
The industry in the town is made up of 4000 small and medium companies, most of which are
owner managed. Although the owners have a high degree of specialized professional skill, they
are mostly traditional, resisting new ideas. Competition is intense and secrecy is of paramount
importance. The owners are often not keen on discussing details of their processes, material
consumption, waste volumes or their sales and production figures. The recent crackdown by
the Pollution Control authorities and the resultant spate of litigation, have made the industry
more suspicious of any data collection being carried out.

Industry Associations
The industry is organized into twelve different industry associations, which represent specific
activity segments. For example, there is a Bleachers’ Association where all the bleaching units
are members. There is substantial cross membership as many manufacturers are involved in
more than one activity. The main role of the associations seems to be to represent the viewpoint
of the members to different Government departments. Data availability with the associations is
minimal.

Government Agencies
Consolidated data on the materials and energy consumption by the industries was not available
with any of the various Government agencies, which monitor the industries. Some of the agencies
like the Apparel Export Promotion Council and the Sales Tax Administration had data of total
money value of sales but not the quantities.

The Assessment
None of these sources would be able to give the team the data that were required. A new
approach was essential to collect the quantitative data so necessary to prepare an RFA. Very
accurate data were not essential at this stage to get a broad understanding of resource flows, and
reasonable estimations were adequate at least for the team to assess the order of magnitude of
the different resources. Based on their relative importance, a more accurate assessment could
be made for a few selected resources, if necessary.
62 CASE STUDY OF THE TEXTILE INDUSTRY IN TIRUPUR

The basis of the method chosen was to break down the entire industrial activity into six industry
segments: knitting, bleaching, dyeing, calendering, finishing and printing. Within each segment,
it was noted that the processes used by the different units were similar. Hence since each
segment was homogeneous, it would be possible to select a few sample units in each segment,
make assessments and extrapolate the results over the entire segment.

Each of the segments was taken up for specific analysis, so that an assessment of the material
flows could be made for each individual segment.

At the first level, it was required to make an assessment of the total production quantities. This
was achieved by taking the aggregate sales value and dividing it by the average price of a made-
up garment sold. This gave the number of pieces sold. This estimation was done separately for
exports and domestic sales, as there is a wide price variation. The number of pieces sold was
multiplied by the average weight of a garment to arrive at the total tonnage produced. The
figures were tallied with the total sales of yarn in the town. The figures concerning yarn, were
assessed by taking a mean of trade reports and the sales value, as given by the tax administration.
The assumptions on price and weight per garment were calculated on the basis of interviews
with a number of industry experts. Details of the total production of the Tirupur Textile Industry
are given in Table 5.3.

Table 5.3: Total Production of the Tirupur Textile Industry (1995)

Production Number of Units

Total garments exported 358 million pieces (71,600 tonnes)

Domestic sales 250 million pieces (50,000 tonnes)

Total yarn/fabric processed 160,265 tonnes

Total tonnage of fabric manufactured 121,600 tonnes

Process losses 24.12%

Once the total tonnage was estimated, it was necessary to establish the process flow. That is,
the processes the material has to go through from the stage of the yarn to the finished garment.
The typical sequence is knitting, bleaching/dyeing, steam calendering, finishing, and printing.
A finished garment must go through the complete sequence. That is, if the total quantity produced
in Tirupur is known, it may be assumed that the entire quantity has passed through the entire
sequence of operations except the dyeing/bleaching operations. It was assumed that only 50%
of all the garments produced is dyed. The balance is sold as white and is just bleached.

The next stage was to make an assessment of the consumption and flow of materials and energy
in each operation. The basis of the method was to establish material consumption norms for
 CASE STUDY OF THE TEXTILE INDUSTRY IN TIRUPUR 63

each operation, which could be extrapolated over the entire industry segment. For example, if
the consumption of sodium chloride per kilogram of fabric dyed is known and the total fabric
dyed in Tirupur is estimated, the total consumption of sodium chloride in Tirupur could be
easily calculated. As mentioned earlier, this method was suitable for Tirupur, because, within
each industry segment, the technology and methods adopted are largely uniform.

To arrive at the norms for extrapolation, the following steps were followed:

• Sample units were selected out of each industry group from the industry lists available
from the associations.
• A good understanding of each process was gathered with the help of personnel in the
industry association and in consultation with a few helpful entrepreneurs.
• Open-ended interviews were conducted with all the sample units.
• Data collected from the units in each segment were analyzed with the help of which
tentative norms were established.
• The norms were re-checked with industry experts, in many cases the heads of the industry
associations.

Typical Assumptions for Estimation of Energy

As an example of typical assumptions for the resource flow analysis in Tirupur, the details of
the estimation of electrical energy are given below. Electrical energy concerns all the sectors of
activity. The estimate is based on the total production figures indicated in Table 5.3, and assuming
300 working days per year and 12 working hours per day.

Electrical Energy
Knitting Industry
Average power consumption : 138 kWh
per tonne of fabric produced

Total annual production : 145,920 tonnes

Total power consumption : 20,140,000 kWh (20.14 million kWh)

Bleaching
Total fabric bleached per year : 72,960 tonnes
 64 CASE STUDY OF THE TEXTILE INDUSTRY IN TIRUPUR

Fabric bleached by machine : 58,368 tonnes (assuming 80% of total fabric bleached
by machine, and 20% hand bleached which does not
need any power)

Power consumption per tonne : 26.78 kWh

of fabric bleached

Consumption per year : 1,560,000 kWh (1.56 million kWh)

Dyeing : Exactly the same consumption as the bleaching

industry

Note: The original estimates were done for all the wet processes together as is usually estimated by the
Pollution Control Board in Tirupur and the quantities divided between the bleaching and the dyeing sectors.
Splitting this between bleaching and dyeing is difficult in Tirupur as many of the small units have facilities
for dyeing and bleaching and change their activities depending on the needs of business. It is very difficult
and time consuming to follow a more elaborate methodology for estimating the split between the dyeing and
the bleaching unit. However, the overall aggregated industry figures have been cross-checked.

Calendering
Average consumption per tonne : 35.8 kWh

Total fabric calendered : 145,920 tonnes

Total annual consumption : 5,230,000 (5.23 million kWh)

Finishing : Cutting, Stitching + Ironing

Cutting & Stitching

Total production : 608 million pieces

Average consumption : 12.78 kWh

per 1,000 pieces

Total annual consumption : 7,780,000 kWh (7.78 million kWh)

Pressing/Ironing
Total production : 608 million pieces

Consumption per 1,000 pieces : 43.19 kWh

Total annual consumption : 26,260,000 kWh (26.26 million kWh)

Total Finishing (stitching + : 34,040,000 kWh (34.04 million kWh)

ironing)

The summary of the total electrical energy consumption estimates is given in Table 5.4.
 CASE STUDY OF THE TEXTILE INDUSTRY IN TIRUPUR 65

Table 5.4: Total Annual Electricity Consumption in Tirupur

Industry Consumption
Industry Segment (in thousand kWh/year)

Knitting 20,140

Bleaching 1,560
Dyeing 1,560

Calendering 5,230

Finishing 34,040

Total 62,530
 66 CASE STUDY OF THE TEXTILE INDUSTRY IN TIRUPUR

Annex 5.2
RFA for each Segment of the Industry
The RFA for each segment of the industry in Tirupur are presented in Figures 5.4 to 5.8. The
units for all the Figures are: electrical energy as million kWh per year, water as thousand litres
per day, others as tonnes per year (MSW = Municipal Solid Waste).

No material flow details are provided for the printing industry as the total quantity of printing
materials used in Tirupur is insignificant, as hardly any printing is done on the T-shirts. Although
an estimate was prepared, a material flow diagram has not been provided.

F I G U R E 5.4

Resource Flows in Knitting Industry, Tirupur

Yarn Electrical Energy

160,265 20,140

Yarn 730
Sweepings To MSW
2,430
To MSW (paper)
Cones 2,430
KNITTING To Re-use (plastic)
INDUSTRY 20
Needles To Re-melt
8755
Jute bags To MSW
End Product

145,920 of Cloth

To Further Units
Processing Electrical Energy: thousand kWh/year
Others: tonnes/year
 CASE STUDY OF THE TEXTILE INDUSTRY IN TIRUPUR 67

F I G U R E 5.5

Transaction Flows in Bleaching Industry, Tirupur

3,648 Bleaching Powder

1.56 Electrical Energy

18,240 Sulfuric Acid

1,45,920 Firewood
2,188 Caustic Soda

182 Whitener
43,750 Water
72,960 Cloth

43.75
Water
24,076
Reacted Waste To
BLEACHING Chemicals water Drain
2,918
INDUSTRY Warpings

Ash To
14,592 MSW

72,960
Cloth

Units
Water: thousand liters/day
To Further Electrical Energy: thousand kWh/year
Processing Others: tonnes/year
68 CASE STUDY OF THE TEXTILE INDUSTRY IN TIRUPUR

F I G U R E 5.6
Resource Flows in Dyeing Industry, Tirupur
72,960 Cloth
43,750 Water
1,560 Electrical Energy
72,960 Firewood
1,678 Bleaching Powder
7,296 Soda Ash
5,102 Sodium Chloride
1,459 Dyes
2,188 Softener
1,459 Fixing Oil
7,296 Acid

43750
Water
2,918
Warping
Reacted 12,509 Wastewater
Chemicals To
292 Drain
DYEING INDUSTRY Dyes
437
Softener
292
Fixing Oil
7,296
Ash To MSW

Cloth 72,960
Units
Water: thousand liters/day
To Further Processing Electrical Energy: thousand kWh/year
Others: tonnes/year
 CASE STUDY OF THE TEXTILE INDUSTRY IN TIRUPUR 69

F I G U R E 5.7

Resource Flows in Calendering Industry, Tirupur

2,630 218,880
Water Firewood
145,920 5,230
Cloth Electrical Energy

21,888
STEAM
To
CALENDERING Ash
MSW
INDUSTRY

145,920
of Cloth
Units
Water: thousand liters/day
Electrical Energy: thousand kWh/year
To Further Others: tonnes/year
Processing
70 CASE STUDY OF THE TEXTILE INDUSTRY IN TIRUPUR

F I G U R E 5.8
Resource Flows in Finishing Industry, Tirupur

145,920 Cloth
34,030 Electrical Energy
2,027 Plastic Bags
20,250 Carton (Cardboard)
709 Rafia Tape
810 Gum Tape
2,432 Thread

195
Cardboard Box

Packing
Thread
Plastic Covers 7
Cones 243

To MSW
Plastic Bags 30
FINISHING INDUSTRY
Rafia Tape 11
Packing
Waste

Gum Tape 12
Carton 304
Cloth
Cuttings Pulping 14,590
Small Garments
Cotton Waste
Units 10,942
Finished Product Water: thousand liters/day
Electrical Energy: thousand kWh/year To Re-use
Others: tonnes/year