Health Problem Of Ornamental Fish In Bangladesh

Introduction:
The ornamental fish industry is an aquaculture based business which is the
popular hobby around the world which gives hundreds of millions of dollars
and supports the rural people in developing countries. And the veterinarians are
increasingly becoming involved in disease management of the related species
whether for private home clients, retail and wholesale operations, which are
in larger display settings. Diseases of fish arise through many of the same
pathways of influencing the primary, and perpetuating factors as of their other
animals. Often results in the practical approach of euthanizing one or more
of the severely affected fish, and using various tools (Chapman et. al., 1997).
Early clinical signs in many infectious and noninfectious diseases of fish are
manifested by the skin (Schmale, 1995).

In general, as in all vertebrates, the skin of fish consists of epidermis which is

very thin and composed, from the inside outward, of a basal layer of germinal
cells, a variable number of layers of cuboidal to squamous cells and an outer
cuticle layer and dermis was supported by a hypodermis (Stoskopf MK, 1993;
Gratzek et.al., 1992). The color of fish is affected by many normal
physiologic and environmental factors including age, diet, temperature,
stress and in some cases sunlight and colors may fade to some extent during
sleep, the clinician must consider these facts when evaluating a fish because
there are also many color changes associated with different disease
conditions. The first sign, the fish shows when it is ill is a change in its body
color, usually the fish becomes darker (Stoskopf MK, 1993; Gratzek et.al.,
1992).
Although, in recent years, there has been a worldwide increase in both basic
and applied research concerning viral diseases and viral infections of fish
species important to the aquaculture industry (Agius C, 1982). The major
reason for this inequity is the higher socioeconomic importance placed on
fish destined for human consumption. In addition, there is a little incentive for
private aquarium fish owners to authorize detailed and expensive virological
examinations, where a positive diagnosis, in most cases results in destruction
of the fish rather than implementation of a treatment with the possibility of a
cure.
List of common disease affecting ornamental fish
:
1.parasitic Infections;

2.Fungal Infections;

3.Viral Infections;

4.Bacterial Diseases;

5.True Worm Parasite Diseases;

External Arthropod Parasite Diseases.

Parasitic Infections

In this category I’ll discuss the symptoms, possible causes and remedies for the White Spot Disease,
the Gold Dust Disease, Hexamitiasis, and the Neon Tetra Disease.

1. White Spot Disease (Ich/Ick):The Ich or Ick is caused by a protozoan that attaches itself to the
body, gills, and fins of a fish and it appears as clearly visible white spots concentrated on these areas
on the fish’s body.Unfortunately, this type of parasitic infection is very persistent and can cause

mobility and breathing problems to infected fish. If it’s left untreated, it can even lead to death.

Symptoms:

White spots that look like grains of sugar or even white patches that appear on the gills, fins and
body of the fish;

Fins folded against the body;

Difficulty breathing, fish coming to the surface of the tank for air;

Lack of appetite;

Fish trying to rub against objects in the aquarium in an attempt to remove the parasite;

possible Causes:
Sudden changes in water temperature (e.g. in winter when temperatures drop, or when performing
water changes if replacement water is not at the same temperature as the tank water);

Introduction of new fish that carry the protozoa in a poorly maintained tank;

Introduction of new plants that carry the protozoa.

Remedies:

As mentioned, this disease can be fatal for our fish and once it gets into the tank, it’s important to
treat it immediately because the outlooks for your fish are grim – the disease carries a 100%
mortality rate if left untreated.

Treatments for the white spot disease include:

Medication (anti-parasitic);

Increasing water temperature (86 F if tolerated by your fish);

Combining aquarium salt (not table salt!!!) into the aquarium.

You can pick up anti-parasitic medication at your local pet shop or order it online. The reason why
you should also increase the water temperature is to speed up the lifecycle of the parasite.

Before administering any medication, make sure your remove your carbon filter because it may
absorb medicine before it gets into the system of your fish, rendering the whole treatment useless.

Increased temperature alongside aquarium salt can disrupt the fluid regulation of Ich and helps in
the production of slime or mucous to keep the parasite off the body of the fish.

2. Gold Dust Disease (Velvet)

Rust or Gold Dust Disease is another common parasitic infection that should be addressed as soon as
you notice any signs. It also referred to as Velvet disease.The disease is caused by the parasite
Oodinium that attaches to the skin and gills of the fish creating a fine yellow or light brown
film.Unfortunately, visible physical signs appear only in later stages of the disease. Therefore,
immediate action is required to prevent the death of your fish.

Symptoms:

Light brown or yellowish film on the skin;

Skin peeling off (in advanced stages);

Fins folded against the body;

Weight loss, loss of appetite;

Lethargy;

Rapid breathing, difficulty breathing;

Scratching against surfaces.

Possible Causes:

Caused by the parasite Oodinium in poorly maintained tanks;

Sudden changes in water temperature;

Lack of regular water changes;

Adding new fish to the tank that are already infected with the parasite;

Adding plants that carry it.

Remedies:

Because it’s highly contagious, it’s important to act immediately to prevent the escalation of the
disease. And because symptoms are difficult to spot early on, immediate treatment is crucial.

Dimming lights or cutting out light completely and leaving the tank in darkness (the parasite relies
somewhat on photosynthesis for energy);

Raising water temperature if fish can tolerate it.

3. Hexamitiasis: This disease is common to fresh and saltwater fish and it’s also known as Hole-in-
the-Head Disease or Head and Lateral Line Erosion. It manifests itself as lesions on the head and
flanks of the fish.

Symptoms:

Subdued coloration;

Loss of appetite;

Lesions on head;
Fish may have trouble swimming;

Possible Causes:

It is believed that the parasite may be naturally present in low levels the intestine of some fish.When
the immune system of the fish become compromised either because of nutritional deficiencies or
improper tank conditions, it leads to the rapid multiplication of the parasite.

Remedies:

Removing activated carbon from the tank, improving water conditions with regular tank cleaning
and water changes, and adjusting the diet of your fish have all been shown to improve the condition
of infected fish.Medicated fish food when fish are still able to eat or treatments with Metronidazole
when fish are no longer able to eat are both used as a treatment option for this disease.

4. Neon Tetra Disease:

This disease is named after Neon Tetra fish; however, it can affect a variety of Tetra species not only
the Neon Tetra.The disease manifests as a series of bacterial infections that invade the stomach and
digestive tract of the fish, eating them from the inside out.It’s caused by the parasite Pleistophora
Hyphessobryconis, which feeds on the fish until the fish dies.

Symptoms:

Loss of color or milky/brownish coloration;

Cysts on the body of the fish;

Weight loss;

Curvature of the spine in extreme cases;

Erratic swimming or swimming difficulties;

Separation from school;

Secondary infections.
Possible Causes:

The parasite Pleistophora Hyphessobryconis may end up in the tank via live food that may carry it.
Other fish can get infected by eating the body of a dead fish that died as a result of the disease or
carries it.

Remedies:

Unfortunately, the Neon Tetra Disease has no known medical treatment or remedy. The best thing
you can do is to contain the disease by removing infected fish from the tank.In this case, prevention
is the best medicine – regular tank cleaning, frequent water changes and quarantining new fish and
being picky about the food you feed them is the only way to prevent the disease.

Fungal Infections

Fungal infections are another category of diseases that can affect fish if proper tank conditions are
not kept and fish have a compromised immune system.I’ll discuss the symptoms, causes and

treatment of two common fungal infections – the Body Fungus and the Cotton Fin Fungus.

1. Body Fungus

If you maintain a clean tank and healthy fish, fungus shouldn’t be a problem since the slimy coat on
the fish protects against the spores of fungi.However, if our aquarium is not suitable for healthy
living conditions, we better believe it that the slimy coats of our fish become damaged and fungi will
find their way onto the skin of your fish.

Symptoms:

White fluffy patches on body, head or fins;

White patches can appear brownish, greenish, or reddish because of debris in water;

Behavior is not usually affected.

Possible Causes:

Anything that weakens the immune system of our fish – improper tank conditions, improper

temperature, other diseases – can be a potential cause of this fungus.Every time the mucous layer of
your fish is affected even if it’s caused by rough handling, other fish nipping at it, diseases that cause
open wounds and ulcers (e.g. Ich, Hole-in-Head Disease), will expose your fish to fungus.

Remedies:

If left untreated fungus will kill fish therefore, it’s important to act as soon as you notice the first
signs to prevent it from spreading to your other fish.You can pick up a number of antifungal
medications from a pet store or order them online, most of which are based on organic
dyes.Sometimes, if some of your fish don’t tolerate antifungal medication, you’ll need to isolate
infected fish and treat them separately in a hospital tank.

2. Cotton Fin Fungus : Cotton Wool Disease or Cotton Fin Fungus can appear if your fish have a
weakened immune system. Like many other diseases on this list, this too must be addressed
immediately to prevent further damage

Symptoms:

Wooly, cotton-like fluffy growths on the fins;

No immediate behavioral signs.

Possible Causes:

Improper tank maintenance may be one of the underlying causes of this fungal infection. Fish with a
weakened immune system are more susceptible to getting the disease.

Even with regular and meticulous tank cleaning habits, your fish may get this disease if your fish
have sustained injuries from other diseases or because of fighting with other fish.

Whenever you’re keeping fish of different species, make sure to check that they’re compatible and
separate fish that bully or nip at the fins of other fish to avoid injuries.

Remedies:

Fungal treatments are the best cure for this disease with salt, Methylene blue, Malachite green, and
Acriflavine being the most common ones. we may no longer find the last one since it’s toxic to
humans.You can use the other three including aquarium salt, which you can add to the tank in
amounts of 1-3 grams per liter.
Viral Infections:

Lymphocystis

Lymphocystis is the most common viral infection that your fish can get, and it’s introduced into the
tank via infected fish or infected live food. It can infect freshwater and saltwater fish
alike.Thankfully, this infection rarely causes death, but it can make breathing and swimming difficult,
plus it will usually disfigure fish.

Symptoms:

Growths that resemble small cauliflowers on the skin or fins;

Breathing and swimming difficulties when the growths appear on gills or fins.

Possible Causes:

Because the virus that causes Lymphocystis is introduced to the tank, it’s important to quarantine
new fish before adding them to an established tank.

Feeding your fish live food can also cause the infection, so growing live food at home or sourcing it
from a reliable vendor is best.

If your fish don’t rely on live foods for sustenance, it’s best to avoid live foods.

Remedies:

To the disappointment of aquarists struggling to eradicate this viral infection from their aquariums,
there is no ready-to-use treatment currently available for Lymphocystis.

For now, maintaining excellent water conditions, meeting the nutritional needs of your fish while
hoping the disease resolves itself is the best course of action.

And it usually does resolve itself in a couple of weeks for warm water tanks and up to 6 weeks for
cold water tanks.

Cotton Mouth Disease

This highly contagious bacterial disease is caused by the Chondrococcus columnaris bacterium and
even though it’s a bacterial disease, it’s often mistaken for a fungal infection because of its mold-like
appearance.

Symptoms:

Fungus-like patches on the gill filaments (white-gray color);

Skin ulcerations;

Lightening or browning of gills;

Mucus on gills, head or dorsal regions;

Loss of appetite;

Rapid breathing;

Epidermal loss;

Ragged fins.

Possible Causes:

Remedies:

Outlooks for the disease aren’t good – often the disease is fatal to fish that contracted it. It’s also
highly contagious, so quick action to help contain the disease is necessary.

Possible treatments include salt solution (1% or higher) baths for infected fish. If the disease is at the
tank level, medication should be used in the entire tank.

Antibiotics that target am-negative bacterial infections like Oxytetracycline are effective.

Hemorrhagic Septicemia

Symptoms:

Bright red streaks on fins, red discoloration on flanks;

Bloated abdomen;

Bulging eyes;
Open sores;

Fast breathing;

Erratic swimming;

Coming to the surface of the tank for air.

Remedies:

Since there is no known cure to this disease, experimenting with several options may be required to
see which produce results.Bear in mind that since the disease is in the circulatory system of the fish,
external medications and measures may no longer be efficient.

Treating the aquarium with disinfectant and cleaning the tank (try 0.2% Acriflavine or Monacrin
solution at a rate of 1 ml/l);

Adding chloromycetin or tetracycline antibiotics to fish food (mix one 250 mg capsule to 25 g food).

Tuberculosis

guppy-fish-tuberculosis

Fish TB is caused by one of the 11 species of Mycobacteria and it’s common in poorly maintained
tropical aquariums.

Symptoms:

Lethargy;

Loss of appetite;

Loss of fins and scales;

Hollowed belly;

Paleness;

Reclusiveness;
Yellowish or darkish nodules on body;

Skin ulcers.

Possible Causes:

Fish tuberculosis can be caused by lack of tank maintenance and overstocking the tank.
Mycobacteria can thrive in aquariums where water conditions are precarious.

Low oxygen in the tank, low pH, high levels of soluble zinc, fulvic and humic acids are all breeding
grounds for these bacteria.

Remedies:

As with many other diseases that I discuss in this article, fish TB has no known cure or remedy.

4. Bacterial Fin Rot

Bacterial Fin Rot is a disease that attacks the tissue starting with the fins and may slowly spread to
other areas of the body once it reaches the base of the fins.Unfortunately, lost tissue can no longer
regenerate, therefore, Bacterial Fin Rot causes permanent damage to your fish.

Symptoms:

Regions attacked by Bacterial Fin Rot appear milky-white;

Fins look shredded;

Fin rays can be exposed;

As the disease progresses it causes difficulty swimming.

Possible Causes:

Although Fin Rot is caused by various bacteria such as Pseudomonas, Flavobacterium Columnare,
and Aeromonas, the root cause is always poor water conditions in the tank.

Fish are also more vulnerable to the disease if they’re stressed, if the tank is overstocked, if they’re
housed with aggressive fish that may injure them or nip at their fins.

Remedies:
Assessing the environmental factors of the fish is the first step towards dealing with the disease.

If your tank is overcrowded, rehome some of the fish. If you notice fish nipping at other fish or being
aggressive, remove them from the tank.

Next, do a thorough tank cleaning and several 20-50% water changes with clean, aged water.

5. Popeye:Popeye is a disease that affects the eyes of your fish to the point where eyes could fall out
of their sockets.The disease is the result of a hemorrhage produced by gas in the capillaries of the
eye socket. Because of this, eyes may protrude and even fall out if left untreated.Because Popeye is
a mix of problems – infection, cornea damage and fluid build-up behind the eye, treatment can be

difficult.The disease is rarely fatal to the fish, but it’s important to prevent the spread of the disease.

Symptoms:

One or both eyes protruding from the eye socket;

Cloudy or bloodstained eyes;

Ruptured eye;

Loss of vision;

Possible Causes: When both eyes are protruding, the disease is called Bilateral Popeye and its most
likely cause is infection caused by prolonged exposure to precarious water conditions.It can appear
even in tanks where the nitrogen cycle hasn’t fully completed, but mostly in tanks where
maintenance is non-existent or lax.

If only one eye is protruding – in which case we’re dealing with Unilateral Popeye – the cause is
most likely fights between fish, scraping of the eye, rough handling or collisions between fish.

Remedies:

Epsom salts added to the tank in a dose of 1-3 teaspoons/gallon;

Medications that work for Fin Rot may be useful in preventing a damaged cornea developing into a
full-blown Popeye disease;

Once the disease develops, antibiotics used in treating internal and systemic infections mixed into
food is the best course of action.

6. Dropsy

dropsy-goldfish

Dropsy is an infection that causes fluid to build up inside the fish, which damages its internal organs.
The infection is caused by a bacterium that lives naturally in aquariums.

Symptoms:

Bloating;

Extruding eyes;

Scales sticking out;

Lethargy;

Loss of appetite;

Rapid gill breathing.

Possible Causes: Overstocking the tank and poor water conditions can weaken the immune system
of fish and cause Dropsy.The kidney function of fish becomes compromised, which leads to
absorption of water into the body cavity, which causes the bloated appearance of fish with Dropsy.

Remedies:

Unless you identify the disease in its early stages, you won’t be able to save your fish from dying.

Isolating the fish in a separate tank and adding Epsom salt (⅛ teaspoons to 5 gallons of water) can
help draw out some excess water from tissues and body cavity.

7. Cloudy Eye: Cloudy eye is also a common fish disease that can be caused by poor water quality,
malnutrition, stress or old age.

Symptoms:
Cloudy/hazy eyes;

Loss of vision;

Possible Causes:

Water quality is probably the number one cause of this issue, however, an increase in parasites
malnutrition, old age or stressful tank conditions can all contribute to the disease.

Remedies: If you notice the symptoms of Cloudy Eyes, you should start with examining water
parameters including pH values. When pH drops too low, it can cause these issues in your fish.
Perform water changes if pH values are below 6.4. Once levels are adjusted, your fish will recover.

Inflammation to the bladder caused by bacteria and parasites is one of the causes of the Swim
Bladder disease.

True Worm Parasite Diseases

Flukes and Roundworms are the two most common True Worm Parasite diseases in fish. Unlike
other parasitic diseases, these ones can infect even healthy fish. Let’s see which are the symptoms,
causes and treatment options for each of these diseases.

1. Flukes (Skin and Gills)

Flukes is a catch-all term for various parasites that can affect the gills and skin of fish, which explains
why the disease if also referred to as Skin and Gills Flukes.Although environmental factors such as
stress and poor water conditions are often linked to Flukes outbreaks, even healthy fish can be
exposed to this disease.

Symptoms:

Gills and body covered by a layer of mucus;

Red skin;
Gills have the appearance of being chewed or shredded;

Scratching against objects;

Breathing difficulties;

Paleness, drooping fins, hollow bellies and rapid breathing are signs of an extensive infestation.

Possible Causes: Dactylogyrus spp. and Gyrodactylus spp. are the most common parasites to infect
freshwater and marine fish.Parasites attach to the skin of fish and burrow themselves into their
flesh, leaving ulcers that can be exposed to secondary infections.

Remedies:

Using anti-worm medications like Praziquantel have been proven to effectively treat Flukes and
infections caused by Flukes.Beyond treating Flukes and associated infections, this medication is in no
way harmful to other species, plants or filters in the tank, so you can use it without worries.

2. Roundworms (Nematodes):No fish is safe from Roundworms, which can attack all organs and
result in fatalities. Because they’re so difficult to treat, the first line of defense against them is to
avoid introducing them into your aquarium.

Symptoms:

Worms visibly hanging out of the anus;

General lethargy;

Loss of appetite;

Belly sink-in (severe cases).

Possible Causes:

Roundworms are introduced into the tank via raw foods, driftwood, or new fish that already carry
the worm.

Leftover food left to decay in the tank can increase the chances of an outbreak, so keep your tank
tidy and clean, and remove any decaying food.
Remedies:Keeping the tank clean by scooping up leftover food and perhaps introducing some
natural tank cleaners (Plecos, Gouramis, etc.) can go a long way in preventing outbreaks.When the
problem is already present in the tank, medication is the only way to get rid of the worms. Try
Parachlorometaxylenol either as a bath solution (10 ml to one liter) or mix it into their food.

External Arthropod Parasite Diseases

1. Anchor Worm: Despite the name “worm”, these parasites are a species of small crustaceans

specific to freshwater fish. They’re not at all common, and when they do appear, they’re easy to
spot.

Symptoms:

Inflammation, ulcers on body;

Redness at anchor point;

White-green or red “worms” located at the base of fins;

Lethargy;

Rubbing against hard objects;

Breathing difficulty.

Possible Causes:Anchor worms are introduced into the tank either by adding plants that carry them
or by adding new fish infected with anchor worms.Therefore, disinfection of plants and quarantining
of new fish is recommended before you add them into an established aquarium.

Remedies: There are various treatment options available to deal with anchor worms:

Potassium permanganate (as tank treatment or dip);

Salt dip;

Formalin dip;

Removal with tweezers.

Removing anchor worms with tweezers is the surest way to ensure they’re gone, however, only if it

isn’t borrowed too deep into the fins.

2. Fish Lice: Fish Lice or Argulus can grow up to 10 mm in size, which makes them easy to recognize.
They’re usually located in sheltered areas like behind fins or around the head.Once Argulus attaches
itself to the fish, it feeds off of them causing irritation and inflammation.

Symptoms:

Small dark spots on fish;

Ulcers, irritated and inflamed areas, red markings;

Rubbing against hard surfaces;

Possible Causes:

Fish lice are introduced into the tank often while transferring pond fish into an aquarium. Lice
spreads fast spreading diseases and infections. Immediate treatment is required.

Remedies:Using specialized medication on a tank level is the best at addressing this issue.
Organophosphates deliver the best results against Argulus.

Manual removal is another option, however, treating the entire tank is still required. If you’re going
to remove lice manually using tweezers, make sure you use antiseptics to clean the wounds left by
the lice.

Fish Disease Prevention Tips:

Here are some easy tips to stay on top of the most common diseases affecting freshwater aquarium
fish:

1. Feeding them a Balanced Diet

A nutrient-rich balanced diet is crucial to making sure your fish build up a strong immune system
that’s ready to fight off infections and other diseases.

2. Avoiding Sudden Changes in Tank Conditions: Many fish are sensitive to dramatic changes in tank
conditions, which can happen is you’re an inexperienced aquarist.

Sudden changes in temperature and toxin levels are often the main culprits in exposing your fish to
undue stress, leading to a weakened immune system and disease outbreaks.
3. Maintaining Quality Water Parameters: Regular water changes — weekly or bi-weekly, depending

on fish’s bio-load — is also crucial in diluting and removing toxins and replenishing water with
essential nutrients.Other than changing water, regularly cleaning the tank by removing leftover food
and debris can also prevent diseases and keep algae growth at normal levels.

4. Monitoring the Health of Your Fish:Another way of preventing diseases from becoming too
serious is to spot them in their early stages.To be able to do this, you need to familiarize yourself
with the various diseases that can affect your fish.Therefore, whenever you’re feeding your fish or
cleaning the tank, take a few minutes to look at your fish and assess their general health level.

Treatment of diseased fish:

1.Change the water and check the filter

2.Treat with a suitable treatment such as phenoxyethanol, malachite green methylene blue or other
proprietary agent (most seem to prefer aquarium salt; however, it is important to make sure the
product is for freshwater, not saltwater, fish).
3.Find out the pH and correct it if necessary.
4.Use antibiotics if the rotting is jagged.
5.Use antifungal medication if the rot is more evenly spread out and the fin has holes. This may also
be a symptom of an external columnaris infection, especially if it progresses rapidly (within 24 hours)
and the rotted edge has a white, fuzzy appearance.
Water temperature should be changed to 24-26 °C.

Conclusion: All pets can get sick and so can our fish. The key is to recognize when something is off
with your fish and identify the underlying issue, which can be anything from stress to poor water
conditions.Sometimes, even with the biggest care and attention, diseases can still strike. In such
cases, getting the right treatment on time is crucial in saving the lives of your fish.And more
importantly Whenever possible, make sure you consult a professional if you have concerns about
the health of your fish. Articles and guides like this are just that — guides that don’t replace
professional medical advice.

References:
1."Ninth Flatfish Biology Conference" (PDF). Nefsc.noaa.gov. December 1–2, 2004. p. 68. Retrieved
2012-10-13.

2.Bailey, Mary; Burgess, Peter (1999). Tropical fishlopaedia : a complete guide to fish care. Lydney,
Gloucestershire: Ringpress. ISBN 978-1860541025.

3.FAO, The State of World Fisheries and Aquaculture, Contributing to food security and nutrition for
all, Food and Agriculture Organization of the United Nations, Rome, Italy, 2016.

4.Chris Andrews. The Manual of Fish Health. Stillwater, MN: Voyageur Press

5.https://en.m.wikipedia.org