RJTA Vol. 12 No.

4 2008

Development of Cosmetic Textiles

Using Microencapsulation Technology
S.Y. Cheng1*, C.W.M. Yuen1, C.W. Kan1 and K.K.L. Cheuk1
1
Institute of Textiles and Clothing, The Hong Kong Polytechnic University, Hong Kong.

ABSTRACT

In recent years, textile materials have been found in applications in the cosmetics field. A
new sector of cosmetic textiles is introduced and several commercial cosmetic textile
products are currently available in the market. On contact with human body and skin,
cosmetic textiles are designed to transfer an active substance for cosmetic purposes. The
principle is achieved by simply imparting the cosmetic and pharmaceutical ingredients into
the fabric of clothing so that with the natural movement of the body, the skin is slowly
freshened and revitalised.

Microencapsulation technology is an effective technique used to control the release

properties of active ingredients that prolong the functionality of cosmetic textiles. This
paper will address the historical background of microencapsulation technology, its
significant advantages and the most commonly used microencapsulation methods. Some
typical examples of commercially available microencapsulation based cosmetic textile
products will also be examined. Recent applications, as well as potential development in
cosmetic textiles production, will be discussed.

Keywords: Cosmetic Textiles, Microencapsulation, Body Care

1. Introduction substance for cosmetic purposes. One particular

example is the transfer of skin moisturising
With the growing trend in enhancing beauty substances. The principle is achieved by simply
through healthy means, customers request for imparting the cosmetic and pharmaceutical
apparels and home textiles containing not only ingredients into the fabric of the clothing so that
their original basic characteristics, such as warmth with the natural movements of the body, the skin
and comfort, but also ones that carry extra is slowly freshened and revitalised. To achieve
functions, including environmental protection, these functional effects, microencapsulation
anti-pollution and most importantly, health and technology appears as an alternative way to
beauty care, in an attempt for a more natural and provide satisfactory performance with increased
healthier life. durability.

Owing to the rapid development of novel sciences In view of the increasing demand in the relevant
and technologies, textile materials have also found fields, researchers and textile manufacturers have
applications in the cosmetics field in recent years. invested extensively in cosmetic textiles for
A new sector of cosmetic textiles is launched and research and product development. Research and
the textile industry is very optimistic that these product development focus on:
products will open up new target groups and
sustainable markets. 1. the opportunities and limits for cosmetic and
health related applications of textiles,
On contact with human body and skin, cosmetic
textiles are designed to transfer an active 2. the possible ways of incorporating active
substances in a functional manner, and
* Corresponding author. Tel.: (852) 2766-6440; Fax: (852) 2773-1432
E-mail address: [email protected] (S.Y. Cheng)
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RJTA Vol. 12 No. 4 2008

3. the practical methods of proving the Microencapsulation is actually a micropackaging

effectiveness of products. technique that involves the production of
microcapsules which act as barrier walls of solids
2. Microencapsulation Technology or liquids. The microcapsules are produced by
depositing a thin polymer coating on small solid
2.1 Microencapsulation Technology and Its particles or liquid droplets, or on dispersions of
Advantages solids in liquids. The core contents are released
under controlled conditions to suit a specific
Currently, microencapsulation technology is purpose (Mei, 1995; Nelson, 2001; Simon, 2006).
rapidly developing in the field of chemical
finishing because of its versatility and flexibility. Figure 2 shows the general structure of a
Figure 1 shows the scanning electron microscope microcapsule which generally consists of two
(SEM) image of microcapsules. One major major components:
advantage of using microencapsulation technology
is its ability to protect the active ingredients from 1. Active ingredient
hazardous environments, i.e. oxidisation, heat,
acidity, alkalinity, moisture or evaporation. An active ingredient is the substance that may
be in a liquid or solid form. It also refers to
It also simultaneously, protects the ingredients the core contents, internal phases,
from interacting with other compounds in the encapsulations, payloads or fillers.
system, which may result in degradation or
polymerisation. Another important advantage of 2. Wall Shell
this versatile technology is its controlled release
properties that seem to be the best choice for A polymer coating that surrounds the active
increasing efficiency and minimising ingredients which may also be called the wall,
environmental damage (Anon, 2005; Holme, 2004; shell, external phase, membrane or matrix. It
Milmo, 2006; Nelson, 2001). may be natural, semi-synthetic or synthetic
polymer.

The release mechanisms of the core contents vary

depending on the selection of wall materials and
more importantly, its specific end uses. Table 1
demonstrates the relationship between the textiles
end uses and their release mechanisms. The core
content may be released by friction, pressure,
change of temperature, diffusion through the
polymer wall, dissolution of the polymer wall
coating, biodegradation etc (Anon, 2005; Holme,
2003; Sudha, et al., 2005).

Fig. 1. SEM Image of Microcapsules

Fig. 2. Structure of a Microcapsule

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The release mechanisms of the core contents vary content may be released by friction, pressure,
depending on the selection of wall materials and change of temperature, diffusion through the
more importantly, its specific end uses. Table 1 polymer wall, dissolution of the polymer wall
demonstrates the relationship between the textiles coating, biodegradation etc (Anon, 2005; Holme,
end uses and their release mechanisms. The core 2003; Sudha, et al., 2005).

Table 1. Textiles End Uses and their Release Mechanisms

End Uses Release Mechanisms
Cosmetic Textiles Friction, Pressure, Biodegradation
(On contact with skin) (Achwal, 2003; Anon, 2005; Cognis, 2005)
Aromatherapy & Fragrance Textiles Friction, Diffusion through Polymer Wall
(Celessence International Limited, 2006;
Devan Chemicals, 2007)
Phase Change Material (Thermoregulation) Temperature (Shin et al., 2005)

Thermochromic & Photochromic Temperature, Ultra-violet Light

(Colour Changing System) (Sawada et al., 2005; Sekar, 1998;
SolarActive® International, Inc., 2007)
Flame Retardant Textiles Flame, High Temperature
(Anon, 2005; Kover et al., 1997)

2.2 Microencapsulation: Historical processing, cosmetic and toiletry industries (Erkan

Background et al, 2004; Nelson, 2001).

The earliest conception of microencapsulation, The textile industry has reacted slowly to the
which carries or holds a core material trapped possibilities of microencapsulation. It was not
within a shell material, possibly dates back to the until the 1990s that a few commercial applications
1930s by using the spray-drying technique (Simon, appeared at the research and development stages
2006). (Nelson, 2001).

Until the 1950s, the first significant application of In the 21st century, more commercial applications
encapsulation technology was developed by of microencapsulation in the textile industry can
Barrett Green of National Cash Register Company be found, particularly in Western Europe, Japan
to provide carbonless copy paper by using a and North America. The technique is being used to
complex coacervation technique. This was develop textiles with new properties and added
employed in a novel printing system which value, including climate-controlled materials,
incorporated a colourless dye within the oil phases fragrance release fabrics, cosmetic, therapeutic
and coated a second paper sheet with acidic clay and medical textiles.
(Aggarwal, 1998; Simon, 2006).
Textiles and garment manufacturers are very
Since then, the US-based Eurand America optimistic that this novel technology will open up
acquired the rights to subsequently develop and exciting market opportunities and a world of
market microencapsulation technology for all new possibilities for consumers (Anon, 2005; Fisher,
applications (Erkan et al., 2004). 2002; Swerev, 2001).

Microencapsulation techniques developed by a 2.3 Microencapsulation Methods

number of companies were noted henceforth. This
versatile micropackaging technique has been Many different manufacturing approaches have
applied in a wide range of fields, including the been adopted for microencapsulation. This paper
pharmaceutical, bulk chemical, agricultural, food discusses the most commonly used
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microencapsulation processes, including (1) forms, it will be in equilibrium with a dilute

Complex Coacervation, (2) Polymer-Polymer solution called the supernatant. The
Incompatibility, (3) Interfacial Polymerisation and supernatant acts as the continuous phase,
In Situ Polymerisation, (4) Spray Drying, (5) whereas the complex coacervate acts as the
Centrifugal Extrusion, (6) Air Suspension Coating, dispersed phase. As the water-insoluble core
(7) Pan Coating, and (8) Emulsion Hardening materials are dispersed in the system, each
Process (Aggarwal et al, 1998; Simon, 2006; droplet or particle of dispersed core material
Holme, 2004; Microtek Laboratories, Inc., 2007) is spontaneously coated with a thin film of
coacervate. The liquid film is then solidified
1. Complex Coacervation to make the capsules harvestable. This
method has been applied to encapsulate many
This method takes advantage of the abilities water-immiscible liquids and is used in a
of cationic and anionic water-soluble variety of products. Figure 3 provides a
polymers to interact with water, forming a schematic presentation of the formation of
liquid, polymer-rich phase called complex microcapsules of oil droplets in water by
coacervation. When the complex coacervate complex coacervation.

Fig. 3. Schematic presentation of formation of microcapsules of o/w by complex coacervation (Simon, 2006)

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2. Polymer-Polymer Incompatibility dispersed core material being encapsulated,

where polymerisation with crosslinking
Two chemically different polymers dissolved continues to occur, thereby generating a solid
in a common solvent are incompatible and do capsule shell.
not mix in the solution. The essential
chemicals repel each other and form two 4. Spray Drying
distinct liquid phases. One phase is rich in
polymer and designed to act as the capsule Spray drying serves as a microencapsulation
shell while the other is rich in incompatible technique when an active material is
polymer. The incompatible polymer is dissolved or suspended in a melt or polymer
presented in the system to cause the solution and becomes trapped in the dried
formation of two phases. It is not designed to particle. Figure 4 illustrates a laboratory scale
be part of the final capsule shell, although a spray dryer.
small amount may remain entrapped in the
final capsule as an impurity. The process is
normally carried out in organic solvents and
used to encapsulate solids with a finite degree
of water solubility.

3. Interfacial Polymerisation and in Situ

Polymerisation

In interfacial polymerisation, the capsule

shell is formed at or on the surface of a
droplet or particle by polymerisation of
reactive monomers. A multi-functional
monomer is dissolved in the liquid core
material. The resulting solution is dispersed
to a desired drop size in an aqueous phase
that contains a dispersing agent. The aqueous
coreactant, usually a multi-functional amine,
is then added to the aqueous phase. A rapid
polymerisation reaction is then produced at
the interface which finally generates the Fig. 4. Laboratory Scale Spray Dryer (Keison
capsule shell. Both the liquid and solid can be International plc, 2005)
encapsulated by interfacial polymerisation
reactions, but the polymerisation chemistry is In the widely used spray drying process, the
typically different. dried solid is formed by spraying an aqueous
solution of the core material and the
For in-situ polymerisation, capsule shell film-forming wall materials as fine droplets
formation occurs because of the into hot air. The water then evaporates and
polymerisation of monomers that is added to the dried solid is usually separated by
the encapsulation reactor, similar to air-separation. This method has been used to
interfacial polymerisation. However, no encapsulate labile materials because of the
reactive agents are added to the core material. brief contact time in the drier. However, one
Polymerisation occurs exclusively in the disadvantage of using the spray drying
continuous phase and on the continuous method is that some low-boiling point
phase side of the interface formed by the aromatics can be lost during the drying
dispersed core material and continuous process. Another disadvantage is that the core
phases. Polymerisation of reagents located material may also form on the surface of the
there produces a relatively low molecular capsule, which allows for oxidation and
weight prepolymer. As this prepolymer grows possible scent changes of the encapsulated
in size, it deposits onto the surface of the product.

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5. Centrifugal Extrusion and hardening takes places on a passage

through a heat exchanger. Solid capsules are
In centrifugal extrusion processes, liquids are removed by filtration or mechanical means
encapsulated by using a rotating extrusion and the immiscible carried fluid is reheated
head with concentric nozzles. The fluid core and recycled after passing through the files.
material is pumped through a central tube
while the liquefied wall material is pumped This process is excellent for forming particles
through a surrounding annular space. of 400-2000µm in diameter. Since the drops
are formed by the breaking up of a liquid jet,
A membrane of wall material is formed the process is only suitable for liquid or slurry.
across a circular orifice at the end of the Figure 5 demonstrates a schematic diagram of
nozzle and the core material flows into the a centrifugal two-fluid nozzle that was used
membrane, causing the extrusion of a rod of to produce microcapsules.
material. Droplets break away from the rod

Fig. 5. Schematic diagram of centrifugal two-fluid nozzle that was used to produce microcapsules
(Simon, 2006)
particles passing through a nozzle at the
6. Air Suspension Coating chamber bottom.

In air suspension coating, the particles are The nozzle sprays a liquid coating phase onto
coated by dissolved or molten polymers while the particle. The freshly coated particles are
suspended in an upward-moving air stream. carried away from the nozzle by air stream
During the process, the solid particles to be and up into the coating chamber. The coating
encapsulated are first placed in a coating solidifies because of solvent evaporation or
chamber where they are suspended in an air cooling of a melt. At the top of the spout, the
stream, which causes the cyclic flow of particles settle back into the bottom of the
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chamber to repeat the cycle. The cycle is of active substances acting to improve the
repeated many times during the time frame of physiological conditions of human skin. The
a few minutes until the coating has been microcapsule would not break during production,
applied to the desired level of thickness. but was gradually released when the textile
Air-suspension coating of particles by structure was subjected to light pressure created
solutions or melts generally gives better by movement of the human body (US Patent,
control and flexibility. 1993).

However, it is commonly used to encapsulate The possibilities of using β-cyclodextrin as wall

tablets, granules, crystals and powders. It is material have been investigated by a number of
not used with liquid unless they are absorbed researchers (Hak et al. 2000; Wang et al, 2003).
on a porous solid.
Hak et al. investigated the flexibility of
7. Pan Coating β-cyclodextrin as a protective wall. β-cyclodextrin
was embedded onto cellulose fibres by using
Widely used in the pharmaceutical industry, N-methylol-acrylamide. Benzoic acid and vanillin,
this method is a traditional industrial which acted as an anti-bacterial agent and an
procedure for forming small, coated particles aroma respectively, were encapsulated. It was
or tablets. During the pan coating process, the claimed that the anti-bacterial activity was
particles are tumbled in a rotating pan or retained after 10 laundering cycles (Hak et al.,
other device while the coating material is 2000).
applied slowly at a controlled temperature
profile. Additional coatings of film-forming Wang and Chen developed aromatherapeutic
polymers may be added in successive stages. textiles by using fragrance with β-cyclodextrin
inclusion compounds and fixing them onto cotton
8. Emulsion Hardening Process fabrics with low temperature by using a
conventional pad-thermofixed method. The
Emulsion hardening mircoencapsulation fragrance release rates were greatly decreased and
processes can be achieved when the core the results of sensorial evaluations showed that the
compound is highly soluble in the polymer performance of the fabric lasted for over 30 days
solution (wall). The mixture is emulsified in (Wang et al., 2005).
an immiscible liquid and then the solvent is
removed by evaporation, extraction etc. The Nelson et al. introduced the use of waste yeast
core compound is solidified inside the cells in the microencapsulation process. After
polymer solution droplet and thus, forms the encapsulating the core material, the yeast cells
microcapsule. One typical example of this were attached to both cotton and wool fibres by
process is the production of poly(lactic) acid using crosslinking agents and binders. The
microcapsule for use in injectable particle processes of filling the yeast cells were very
systems. simple and the use of yeast cells as wall material
generally provided several advantages, such as
2.4 Microencapsulation Applications in high loading, inthermoplastic, protection from
Cosmetic Textiles light, oxygen and hazardous environments, and
cost effectiveness (Bishop et al., 1998).
In cosmetic textiles, the major interest in
microencapsulation is currently in the application Copete Vidal et al. invented chitosan-based
of vitamins, essential oils, skin moisturising agents, microcapsules containing various active
skin cooling agents, anti-aging agents etc. components and investigated their durability with
Focusing on the field of cosmetic textiles, the a mixture of microcapsules and a binding agent.
techniques of producing microcapsules containing With a finishing that used microcapsules and a
essential oils and cosmetic substances have been binder, the active ingredients were released and
studied extensively in the past. found to wash out less quickly, and a high degree
of hydration was also achieved (US Patent, 2005).
Yamato et al. prepared microcapsules comprising

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Korean researchers prepared melamine resin Chang integrated the processing procedures of
microcapsules containing Migrin oil by the in situ fabric treatment techniques with low temperature
polymerisation method. The structure, mean plasma, natural oil essence microencapsulation
particle size and size distribution, morphologies, and fabric coating techniques to improve the
thermal properties and released behaviours were adhesion property of microcapsules with fabrics.
characterised and discussed (Hong et al., 1999). This invention increased not only the adhesion
area of microcapsules on the fabric, but also
They also prepared poly(L-lactide) microcapsules enhanced the use for oil essences and promoted
for fragrant fibres by an interfacial precipitation the additional value of the fabric (US Patent,
method through solvent evaporation from 2005).
water-in-oil-in-water emulsion. The microcapsules
were then uniformly printed on cotton fabrics and 3. Commercially Available Cosmetic
the resulting fabric could withstand 15 cycles of Textile Products
washing (Hong et al., 2000).
Microencapsulation technology offers many
Boh and Knez reported microencapsulation opportunities to improve the properties of textiles
development in textile applications and prepared or enhance them with value-added functions.
melamine-formaldehyde microcapsules containing Many textile chemical companies have put forth
essential oils and phase change materials. An in much investigation in this area and offer various
situ polymerisation method was used and the microencapsulation treatments that aim for skin
process was modified to achieve the desired care benefits.
characteristics of a microcapsule wall (Boh et al.,
2006). Cognis – Skintex®

The special features of Questice provide a Cognis, a textile chemical company with
brainstorming development in a fully encapsulated headquarters in Germany, has developed a
system. Questice is a slow release coolant which is microencapsulation based cosmetic treatment for
very mild and has little or no odour. On contact textiles, known as Skintex®, as shown in Figure 6.
with skin, Questice is hydrolysed by the skin's
natural enzymes to produce menthol, giving an
extended cooling sensation.

Pyrrolidone carboxylic acid, a natural moisturising

factor (NMF), is also released during this process.
Equipped with the functional effects of Questice
on fabric, a cooling effect is slowly released and is
body responsive, providing cooling when it is
needed (Kumar, 2004; In-Cosmetics, 2007).

At the same time, many researchers have also put

forth much effort on improving the durability of
microencapsulated functions. This is relatively the
most difficult task in preparing cosmetic textiles.

Li et al. investigated the effects of UV curing for Fig. 6. Cognis – Skintex® Microencapsulation
encapsulated aroma finishing on cotton. The Cosmetic Textile Product (Cognis, 2005)
aroma function was prolonged to 50 wash cycles
whereas the traditional curing method could only The active ingredients are encapsulated by using
withstand 25 wash cycles. If a cotton fabric was chitosan, which is a substance made from the
finished with the selected aroma capsule and UV shells of shrimps. The microcapsules are
resin, and cured under optimal conditions, the embedded onto the fabric by exhaustion during
aroma function could withstand 50 wash cycles wet processing and it is applicable to both natural
(Li et al., 2005). and synthetic materials. A series of products are
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RJTA Vol. 12 No. 4 2008

marketed with moisturising, cooling, energising, It is a microencapsulation delivery system for

relaxing, anti-heavy legs and mosquito repellent textiles with fragrance or active ingredients being
properties. The active ingredients are released by encapsulated and then released when there is
two separate mechanisms. direct contact with skin. Figure 7 shows the
scanning electron microscope (SEM) image of this
One of the methods is by the light friction created commercial product.
between the microcapsules and the skin. The other
important method is that the chitosan membrane is
biodegraded by the enzymes that are naturally
present in skin. According to the washing
instructions, these active agents will remain after
several washes. Reloading of the active
ingredients makes it possible for customers to
recharge them for prolonging the functional
effects.

Speciality Textile Product - BioCap

Another chemical company based in the United

Kingdom by the name of Speciality Textile
Product also makes use of the microencapsulation
technology to develop their biocapsule products
called BioCap. The active ingredients are those
that are widely used in the cosmetics industry,
including Vitamin A, D, E and aloe vera, which Fig. 7. Sensory Perception Technology
provide various skin care benefits and promote a Microencapsulation Cosmetic Textile
sense of well-being. Product (Celessence International
Limited, 2006)
As the fabric is rubbed, the vitamins and aloe vera
are released and absorbed by the human body. The microcapsules contain various skin benefits,
This cosmetic textile treatment can be applied to a such as moisturising skin, repelling insects,
wide range of fabrics for bedding, underwear, anti-bacterial and anti-fungal abilities, and treating
T-shirts, stockings and socks. The company is now cellulite. The microcapsules release their contents
continuing to explore the performance apparel in a controlled manner and will only break through
market through the use of the microencapsulation normal wear and tear. The performance can be
technique. It markets anti-cellulite treatments retained over a long period of time and through
which enable a body cooling effect and multiple domestic laundering. It is compatible
thermal-regulating treatment which has with all types of fibres and has a wide range of
temperature balancing effects. The application of a application potentials, including apparel, hosiery,
depilatory agent to hosiery, which has already interior textiles etc.
been patented, enables an automatic removal of
unwanted hair during wear. The microcapsules are Successful retail introductions include socks and
ruptured by the force created by the hair stubble as leg wear in the U.S. and Europe, both of them
it grows. incorporate aloe vera for moisturising benefits.

Woolmark Development International Ltd 4. Potential Development and

(WDI) - Sensory Perception Technology Conclusion

Another new leading edge microencapsulation The textiles industry is currently experiencing a
treatment for textiles is the so called Sensory revolution that aims at the unique needs of the
Perception Technology (SPT), which is distributed modern consumer. Cosmetic textiles are
by Woolmark Development International Ltd increasingly popular and expanding considerably
(WDI). in the textile industry as its marketing message

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