Tennis - Steps To Success-4th Edition (PDFDrive)
Tennis - Steps To Success-4th Edition (PDFDrive)
Steps to Success
Fourth Edition
Jim Brown
Camille Soulier
Human Kinetics
Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data Brown, Jim, 1940—
pages cm
1. Tennis. I. Title.
GV995.B6924 2013
796.342--dc23
2012044147
Copyright © 1989 by Leisure Press All rights reserved. Except for use in a
review, the reproduction or utilization of this work in any form or by any
electronic, mechanical, or other means, now known or hereafter invented,
including xerography, photocopying, and recording, and in any information
storage and retrieval system, is forbidden without the written permission of the
publisher.
The web addresses cited in this text were current as of February 2013, unless
otherwise noted.
Human Kinetics
Champaign, IL 61825-5076
800-747-4457
e-mail: [email protected]
Stanningley
Leeds LS28 6AT, United Kingdom +44 (0) 113 255 5665
e-mail: [email protected]
08 8372 0999
e-mail: [email protected]
Acknowledgments
Key to Diagrams
Resources
Glossary
Although tennis will continue to change, the fundamentals will not. The
“anything goes” look of today’s strokes is effective only if there has been a
structured approach to learning the game that allows each player to find his or
her unique style of play.
The fourth edition of Tennis: Steps to Success provides that approach for players,
teachers, and coaches. With it, you can build a solid foundation or improve on
the one you’ve already developed. Every paragraph, drill, illustration, and color
photograph in this new edition has been reexamined, rewritten, or added by two
authors who have played, taught, and coached the sport. There is something new
on every page.
In steps 1 through 8, beginners can build their games with forehands, backhands,
serves, and volleys before learning how to use specialty shots such as the half
volley, lob, overhead smash, and drop shot. They can measure their success on a
10-point scale for each of the 84 drills in the book.
Intermediates can progress far beyond basic strokes, increasing and refining their
skills with game-and match-specific drills as they move closer to becoming an
advanced tennis player. Using steps 9 through 11, they can put their collection of
strokes into a game plan that includes big-picture strategies and point-by-point
tactics.
Instructors and teaching professionals who have established systems can select
from the drills, activities, and grading systems to enhance their programs. The
Sport of Tennis introduction includes a brief history of tennis, updated
equipment details, and an explanation of rules. An appendix has been added that
contains evidence-based guidelines for warming up and cooling down, plus an
expanded discussion of common tennis injuries—how to recognize, treat, and
hopefully prevent them. If you or your students are new to tennis, the glossary
contains 189 terms.
Coaches continually add pieces of information to their personal tennis databases.
Tennis: Steps to Success accelerates this process. In addition to the fundamentals
of stroke production, more than 250 suggestions are included in the final three
steps on singles tactics, doubles tactics, and special situations.
The success of this book and the entire Steps to Success series is based on a
systematic but flexible approach to playing and teaching. Tennis players and
teachers around the world follow the same sequence of learning activities as they
work through each step. Previous editions of Tennis: Steps to Success have sold
more than 100,000 copies in English and have been translated into seven
languages.
With this book, you are assured of getting the following court-tested teaching
and learning components:
Stroke Fundamentals
Steps 1 through 8 provide explanations for executing each stroke and images that
give you a mental picture of how to hit the ball. The explanations include tips for
getting into position, gripping the racket correctly, taking it back, swinging, and
following through.
Color Photos
Color photos have replaced line drawings. Each step has multiple images of real
tennis players demonstrating correct techniques.
Self-Paced Drills
The self-paced drills for each stroke are designed to be performed in the order in
which they appear. You should keep score along the way. The drills are
diagrammed and explained in terms that have been successfully used with
thousands of students.
Levels of Difficulty
Following each drill are suggestions for making it more or less difficult,
depending on the skill level of the player. Almost any drill can be made
challenging for a beginning, an intermediate, or in some instances, an advanced
player.
Success Checks
Every player needs key reminders about stroke production. Success checks are
cues the player and the teacher can use to improve technique without
overloading either of them with too much information.
Success Summaries
Near the end of each step is a success summary—a quick review of what you’ve
learned in that step.
Scoring Summaries
The scoring summary is a worksheet at the end of each step to record your
scores. Almost every drill in the book is based on a 10-point scoring system.
Perhaps you’re almost a 10 on some strokes. If so, you’re not a beginner
anymore.
Your reward for completing Tennis: Steps to Success is up to you. You may
simply want to enjoy a sport that provides a lifetime of healthy activity. Your
goal might be to become a tournament-level player, or you may want to guide
others as they discover the sport. Whoever you are, wherever you live and work,
and whatever your goal, Tennis: Steps to Success is ready to help you become
the best player, teacher, or coach you can be.
Acknowledgments
We would like to thank all of the people who helped make Tennis: Steps to
Success possible, especially those in Hattiesburg, Mississippi. The book’s photo
sessions became a community effort involving the Hattiesburg City Recreation
Department and the Racket Club of Hattiesburg (who allowed us to use their
courts) and more than a dozen Hattiesburg residents.
The popularity of the game spread quickly, but players and officials soon
dropped the name sphairistike in favor of lawn tennis (and later, simply tennis),
and they changed Wingfield’s hourglass-shaped court to one that was longer and
rectangular. Players also figured out that they didn’t need Wingfield’s kit to play
the game, sales sagged, and he let the patent expire after three years.
An Evolving Game
Even though Major Wingfield had borrowed elements from similar games that
had been played for hundreds (perhaps thousands) of years in various parts of
the world, he is generally given credit for inventing the game of tennis as we
know it. He didn’t get rich with his invention, but he played an important role in
the development of a sport in which others have made millions and became
superstars. Wingfield’s accomplishments led to his induction into the
International Tennis Hall of Fame in Newport, Rhode Island, in 1997—85 years
after his death.
It didn’t take long for tennis to become an international sport. The first
Wimbledon tournament was held in 1877; the first U.S. Open, in 1881; the first
French Open, in 1891; and what would later be known as the Australian Open, in
1905. These four tournaments are now known as Grand Slam events.
Pioneers
Tennis had a history of being slow to include minorities, women, and people
from middle and lower socioeconomic groups. For too long, it was a sport
played mostly by wealthy men who belonged to exclusive clubs, but things
started to change after World War II.
These pioneers and others (see the sidebar, Game Changers) made it possible for
the sport to be played by people of all classes and from all ethnic backgrounds
almost everywhere in the world. Most of the 30 million players in the United
States play on public courts, and most are amateurs who play for fun with
friends, in tournaments, on teams, or in leagues. About half of all U.S. players
are women.
Game Changers
Walter Wingfield gets credit for inventing the game we know as tennis,
but many others did things on and off the court that changed the game in
profound ways. Here are 11 of them, in no particular order, all of whom
have been inducted into the International Tennis Hall of Fame.
Bill Tilden
Arguably the world’s best and most visible player during the 1920s and
early 1930s, Tilden won seven U.S. Championships and played on seven
Davis Cup teams. He wrote tennis instruction books that were used for
decades.
Jack Kramer
Kramer pioneered the attacking game and dominated amateur and
professional tennis in the late 1940s and early 1950s. The Jack Kramer
Autograph Wilson racket sold 10 million frames. Later, he was a
promoter, a commentator, and the first director of the Association of
Tennis Professionals (ATP).
Richard Gonzales
Largely self-taught, Gonzales overcame racism and discrimination to win
back-to-back U.S. Open titles in 1948 and 1949. He elevated the serve-
and-volley game to a new level and was a colorful, major force in
professional tennis for two decades.
Althea Gibson
Gibson broke the color barrier when she played in the 1950 U.S.
Championships. She won five Grand Slam events, including singles titles
at Wimbledon in 1957 and 1958.
Harry Hopman
Coach Harry Hopman’s Australian teams won the Davis Cup 16 times,
and he may have been the greatest Davis Cup coach ever. He taught and
coached many of the world’s elite players in Australia and later in the
United States.
Gladys Heldman
Heldman founded World Tennis magazine. She played a key role in
creating and developing the Virginia Slims Circuit for women pros, the
first separate circuit for women and the precursor to the Women’s Tennis
Association (WTA).
Bud Collins
Collins was internationally known as a tennis writer, journalist, and
historian. Later, he became the voice and the face of televised tennis as a
commentator. He has entertained and educated generations of tennis fans,
and added to the popularity of the sport.
Lamar Hunt
Hunt was perhaps the most important promoter of professional tennis in
the world. He created World Championship Tennis and, according to the
International Tennis Hall of Fame, “changed the way the world looked at
the game.”
Arthur Ashe
Ashe won titles in all four Grand Slam events. More than being a tennis
champion, this African American was recognized throughout the world
as a sportsman, statesman, activist, and ambassador for the sport of
tennis.
Mark McCormack
McCormack’s International Management Group became the largest firm
in the world to represent athletes. He raised the profile of tennis with
clients such as Billie Jean King, Chris Evert, Bjorn Borg, Pete Sampras,
and Monica Seles.
Open Tennis
Open tennis meant that, for the first time, professional players were able to
compete in tournaments traditionally restricted to amateurs. Before open tennis,
money was paid covertly to some of the world’s best players, even though they
retained their status as amateurs.
Players such as Jack Kramer, Pancho Gonzales, Pancho Segura, and Bobby
Riggs barnstormed the United States, touring the country and playing short-
duration events before small crowds in small venues. Some called it “the secret
tennis tour.”
Open tennis was not a universally popular concept. The International Tennis
Federation (ITF), for example, threatened to prohibit players from entering its
tournaments if they turned pro.
Businessmen and promoters such as Kramer, Lamar Hunt, Dave Dixon, and
George MacCall had most of the world’s best professional players under
contract. They convinced (perhaps coerced) the tennis establishment to allow
their contract professionals to play in Grand Slam and other high-profile
tournaments. When tournament officials reluctantly agreed to let the pros in, the
promoters threatened to keep those same players out until they were given
substantial prize money.
The first “Open Era” tournament was held in Bournemouth, England, in 1968.
The first open Grand Slam event was the French Open. Open Era tennis elevated
the quality of play, increased the number of spectators at tournaments, and made
the sport of tennis more attractive to television audiences.
Television
Television changed the game of tennis, mostly in good ways. In 1972, more than
50 million viewers watched Australian stars Ken Rosewall and Rod Laver play a
five-set classic. Rosewall won. A year later, Billie Jean King defeated the once-
great but aging tennis hustler Riggs in the Battle of the Sexes. The match took
place in the Astrodome in Houston, Texas, before a crowd of 30,000. Millions
more watched on TV. Superstar names boosted ratings. The Grand Slam
tournaments began to attract viewers from other sports who were not hard-core
players or fans.
American stars Jimmy Connors and John McEnroe played brilliantly during the
1970s and 1980s in nationally televised matches. However, their frequent unruly
behavior on the court (which included cursing, throwing rackets, and arguing
with officials) set an example that may have negatively influenced a generation
of young players.
Television even changed the way score is kept. With traditional scoring, the
length of matches is unpredictable, making it more difficult to slot advertising
and to manage a schedule. Therefore, tiebreaker games were introduced in some
cases so a 6-6 set would end quickly.
Technology
Technology continues to change the sport of tennis. At one time courts were
made of grass, clay, or concrete. Now they are made of synthetic materials with
made-to-order surfaces that affect the pace of play. Slower courts result in longer
points. Faster courts equal shorter points.
Rackets were traditionally made of wood, but in the 1970s racket construction
evolved to include materials such as aluminum, graphite, boron, fiberglass,
Kevlar, and carbon fiber. Today, composite rackets allow players to hit hard from
any position on or behind the court, regardless of technique. Serve-and-volley
tennis of the ’70s, ’80s, and ’90s emphasized big serves, getting to the net early
in a point, and finishing with a volley or overhead smash. That style has given
way to serve-and-stay-back tennis, emphasizing big serves (some clock in at the
140 to 150 mph, or 225 to 241 km/h, range), powerful groundstrokes, and long
rallies. Volleys are less important in singles because players don’t want to risk
being passed at the net by a technology-aided forehand or backhand.
Technology changed the size of racket heads from 60 to 70 square inches (387 to
451 sq cm) to jumbo-sized models. Racket heads are now between 95 and 118
square inches (613 to 761 sq cm). Racket head thickness changed from narrow to
wide and back to narrow again.
Instruction
Finally, tennis instruction and coaching are more available today than ever
before. Tennis pros, teachers, coaches, camps, courses, recreation department
programs, and clinics are easily accessible. Tennis organizations and companies
conduct training schools and certification programs at many levels to produce
future teaching professionals.
The availability of information regarding every facet of the game has, for the
most part, elevated the level of play. Unfortunately, Internet information is
scattered and sometimes inaccurate. It often raises more questions than it
provides helpful answers. The following section on equipment will answer some
of those questions.
Equipment
Beginner, intermediate, and advanced players all have decisions to make
regarding rackets, balls, shoes, and apparel. This section provides some
suggestions for buying, using, and taking care of these products.
Rackets
Babolat, Donnay, Dunlop, Head, Prince, ProKennex, Slazenger, Volkl, Wilson,
and Yonex are some of the brand names that you are likely to see. Labels, cards,
stickers, and hangtags on the rackets provide valuable information about racket
size, length, string tension, flexibility, and other features.
Approximately 75 percent of all tennis rackets are factory prestrung. Rackets for
beginners are made of aluminum or low-end graphite, and they sell for between
$30 and $90 (USD).
The other 25 percent of rackets are priced between $90 and $400 and are made
of materials such as composite graphite, carbon fiber, and Kevlar. Intermediate
players typically upgrade to an unstrung racket in the $100 to $165 range.
Be careful. Rackets that look alike, have roughly the same features, and cost
about the same can play completely differently, depending on the player. What
works for one player is not necessarily comfortable for another. Experiment with
many rackets before spending a lot of money. Using dealer demos is a good idea.
In the late 1980s, rackets weighed between 11 and 14 ounces (312 and 397 g).
By 1995, minimum racket weight had dropped to 9 ounces (255 g). Ten years
later, you could find rackets as light as 8 ounces (227 g) and as heavy as 12.5
ounces (354 g). More recently, a survey of more than 200 racket models found
the lightest at 8.3 ounces (235 g) and the heaviest at 11.8 ounces (335 g).
Beginners—both males and females—should look for rackets that are on the
lightweight end of the range and that are relatively stiff. Lighter rackets should
have the weight distributed toward the racket head to generate racket speed—
more power. Heavier rackets require the effort and skill usually associated with
intermediate or advanced players.
Generally, stiffer rackets provide more control, allowing for a harder swing or
the player rebounding a faster ball by using a short backswing. Flexible rackets
provide more power and less directional control, but both can be altered by
adjusting string tension, the length of the swing, and the velocity of the swing.
The ability to understand or ask questions about the various parts of a racket will
help you make the right decision in buying one. Figure 1 illustrates everything
from the butt of the racket to the tip.
Figure 1 Parts of a tennis racket.
As you progress along the Steps to Success, you will develop your own swing
style. For example, if you have a short backswing (how far you take the racket
back when preparing to hit a shot), you’ll probably do better with a stiff racket.
Players with longer backswings usually prefer flexible rackets. Some have an
intermediate-length backswing and should look for a racket with moderate
flexibility.
Each racket company has its own method of matching swing style with the right
racket. Look for the information on the racket, attached to it, or on the product’s
website. Beginning players don’t have to worry about swing style. They won’t
know what their style is until they begin taking lessons or playing.
Although rackets are lighter today, racket heads may be bigger than in the past.
Head sizes range from 95 to 118 square inches (613 to 761 sq cm), and most
recreational players do best with bigger heads, although not necessarily the
biggest, because they give players a larger surface with which to make contact.
Grip sizes have been consistent over the past few decades. Each racket model
comes in these sizes: 4, 4 1/8, 4 1/4, 4 3/8, 4 1/2, and 4 5/8 inches (10, 10.48,
10.80, 11.11, 11.43, and 11.75 cm). The most common sizes are 4 3/8 and 4 1/2
inches (11.11 and 11.43 cm). Look for the grip size information on the side of
the handle, just above the grip or on the butt cap.
Racket Recommendations for Beginners
Racket head size: 100 to 110 square inches (645 to 710 sq cm)
Here are five ways—all of them time tested, but none of them particularly
scientific—to determine the correct grip size for your hand.
1. Shake hands with the racket (which will provide you with an Eastern
forehand grip, as explained in step 1). As your fingers curl around the grip,
the end of your thumb should touch the first joint of your middle finger
(figure 2).
1. Figure 2 The end of the thumb meets the first joint of the middle finger.
2. Measure the distance from the long crease in the middle of your palm (the
second line down from the base of your fingers) to the tip of your ring
finger. Position a ruler between your ring and middle fingers. The distance
measured should be very close to the correct racket circumference grip for
your hands (figure 3).
1. Figure 3 Measure from the tip of your ring finger to the second line in your
palm.
2. Hold the racket in your dominant hand. It should feel comfortable and easy
to maneuver. The shape of the grip should fit the contour of your hand.
3. Hold the racket in an Eastern forehand grip (see step 1). You should be able
to fit the index finger of your nonhitting hand in the space between your
ring finger and palm (figure 4). If there isn’t enough room for your index
finger, the grip is too small. If there is space between your finger and palm,
the grip is too big.
1. Figure 4 Fit the index finger of your nonhitting hand in the space between
your palm and ring finger.
2. Play with a demo or loaner racket. If it twists in your hand on contact, the
grip might be too small. If your hand and arm quickly tire, it might be too
big.
Strings
Performance rackets—those that cost more and are used by intermediate and
advanced players—are sold unstrung. The majority of players use strings made
of nylon or other synthetic materials, such as polyester or Kevlar. The few who
use strings made of gut (beef intestines) are either very good players or very
serious about their games.
Expect to pay $15 to $18 for nylon strings, $18 to $28 for synthetic gut strings,
and $45 to $65 for a racket strung with gut strings. Again, look for a suggested
string tension label on the racket throat.
String tension ranges from 55 to 74 pounds (25 to 34 kg). Generally, the lower
the tension, the more power that can be generated. Tighter strings allow for more
control, assuming you are a good enough player to control the ball regardless of
racket flexibility and string tension. Settle on a string tension that gives you the
best combination of power and control, which is usually 4 to 5 pounds (1.8 to 2.3
kg) from the top of the range (see table 1).
Beginners don’t usually break strings. They just play with rackets until the
strings lose enough tension to affect power or control. How often should a racket
be restrung? Approximately as many times a year as you play during a week. For
example, if you are a moderate hitter and you play twice a week, get your racket
strung twice a year.
Rackets endure a lot of abuse during the course of a lesson, practice session, or
match. Make them last longer and stay stronger by following these suggestions:
The more often intermediate and advanced players play, the more often their
strings break. What should you do when strings break too often? Following are a
few suggestions. Also, ask a racket stringing professional for advice.
Tennis Balls
A can of three premium quality balls costs $2.50 to $8.00 at some specialty or
pro shops. A mass merchandiser or sporting goods store sells them for less.
Three dollars is an average price.
Save a little more by buying a packet of three or four cans of tennis balls.
Typical prices are $15 for six cans and $20 for eight cans—or about $2.50 per
can. Teachers and coaches sometimes buy used tennis balls from club
professionals after tournaments.
Even if you are a beginner, buy the best tennis balls available. Wilson and Penn
are two of the more prominent companies that make quality tennis balls. Look
for information on the container indicating that the balls are used for
“Championship Play” and have been approved by the United States Tennis
Association or the International Tennis Federation.
Most balls are packaged in clear plastic containers under pressure. If the pressure
has not been maintained and the balls are soft when the can is opened, return it
to the dealer for a refund or a new can.
Three balls may last two or three outings for beginners and some intermediates,
but after that they will begin to lose their pressure and bounce, or the felt will
begin to wear off. When that happens, use them for practice only. Extend the life
of balls by keeping them in the original container and by storing them in a cool
place.
Ask for extra-duty balls if you are going to play on hard surfaces. Regular
(championship) balls are used on softer surfaces because they don’t wear as
quickly. Tennis balls sold for play in high altitudes should be designated as high-
altitude balls. Don’t take heavy-duty or championship balls with you on a
vacation to a high-altitude city. Buy them when you get there.
Shoes
Discount stores sell varieties of affordable shoes that will get you through a
tennis course or a series of lessons. However, if you plan to play tennis three or
more times a week, you should wear a sport-specific court shoe.
Look for soft, flexible soles if you are going to be playing and practicing on soft,
claylike courts. Even serious players can get months out of a pair of shoes on
soft surfaces. Wear tennis shoes with soles that are flexible and have added tread
if you are going to play on hard courts. Don’t be surprised if your shoes wear out
within a few weeks.
Perhaps the most important feature of true tennis shoes is lateral control—inside
and outside stability. Tennis players spend more time moving from side to side
along the baseline than they do going forward and backward. That means you’ll
need a shoe sole that is not as steep on the sides (from the sole to the ground) as
a cross-trainer or running shoe.
Other factors to consider are weight (buy the lightest shoe possible if other
features meet your needs), comfort (walk, run, and change directions during the
in-store test period), and cost (appearance and brand are not necessarily
consistent with quality construction).
Shoe-Tap Test
Socks
Tennis shoes get most of the publicity, but serious players know that the socks
inside those shoes can affect performance and prevent injuries. Socks designed
specifically for tennis players are thick or double-layered, with extra padding for
the toe and heel. Some socks are so thick and cushioned that you might have to
buy shoes a half-size larger than usual. The materials to look for in tennis socks,
in the order of how well they repel sweat and expose it to air for quick
evaporation, are Coolmax, acrylic, polypropylene, and wool. Remember: No
cotton socks for tennis. Not only are they poor in wicking moisture away from
the foot, but they also lose their shape, bunch up, and quickly become abrasive.
Apparel
The good news is that you can find moderately priced, high-quality tennis outfits
at sporting goods, department, and discount stores, and at some pro and specialty
shops. The bad news is that you can spend a lot of money on trendy shirts,
shorts, skirts, warm-ups, and other active-wear clothing.
Students in high school and college activity classes usually wear shorts and
shirts approved by the school, but not necessarily old-style physical education
uniforms. There may be dress codes, but no emphasis is put on fashion. If you
take private or group lessons or compete in tennis events, there are usually
guidelines to follow. A few facilities still require all-white attire; those
indications will be in the entry information. Refrain from wearing muscle shirts,
tank tops, and swimsuits. Use common sense, observe what others are wearing,
and ask someone in charge what kind of dress is appropriate.
Most serious players practice in the most comfortable clothes they can find—T-
shirts and baggy shorts are okay. They play matches in the best-looking outfits
they can afford. Wearing loose-fitting clothes for comfortable movement and
light-colored outfits for coolness is more important than dressing for style. In
hot-weather months, consider wearing a hat. It will keep the perspiration from
running down your face and give a little protection against harmful sun rays.
One player serves an entire game, which may last from 4 points to an infinite
number of points. The first point of every game always begins on the right side
of the baseline. The server alternates serving the first point from the right side of
the baseline and the second point from the left side. The receiver also moves
back and forth from right to left to return the serve (in singles; for information
specific to doubles, see Doubles Rules).
A set is won when one player has won at least 6 games and is ahead by at least 2
games. The final score in a set would be 6-0, 6-1, 6-2, 6-3, 6-4, 7-5, 8-6, and so
on. Note that this win-by-two rule varies depending on the level of play; in many
cases, tiebreakers are used instead. For more specific information regarding
scoring, see the Scoring section.
In most matches, players are responsible for keeping their own scores and for
calling their opponents’ shots out of bounds. No sound from a player means the
ball is in, and play continues. Balls that hit the lines are in play. Shouting “out”
means the ball landed outside the boundary line and the point is over.
In some tournament competitions, an umpire may stand or sit near the net, call
out the score, and settle disputes on close shots. At higher levels of the game,
linespersons are positioned to make line calls. Figure 5a illustrates the lines and
areas of the court; figure 5b, court dimensions.
Figure 5 Tennis court (a) lines and areas; (b) dimensions.
A match may also refer to competition between two teams representing schools,
clubs, or other groups. Within each match, points make up games, games make
up sets, and sets make up matches.
Singles Rules
Players take all practice shots before the match begins. Warm-ups are usually
limited to 10 minutes. The player who wins the racket spin or coin toss may
choose to serve or to receive, or on which side of the court to play the first game.
The winner also has the option to relinquish the first choice to the opponent. The
other player gets to choose whatever the winner hasn’t chosen—serve or receive,
or side of court. Read step 9, Singles Tactics, for tactical considerations
regarding these options.
To begin a game, the server stands behind the baseline to the right of the center
mark and inside the singles sideline, facing the net (figure 6). When the
opponent is ready, the server has two chances to put the ball into play by tossing
it into the air and hitting it into the service court across the net and diagonally
opposite from the baseline serving position. The server cannot step on or beyond
the baseline before striking the ball.
Figure 6 Player positioning when beginning a singles game.
If the receiver makes any attempt to return the serve, she is indicating that she is
ready to begin play. The receiver can stand anywhere, but must let the serve
bounce before returning it. After each point, the server alternates between the
left and right sides of the center mark to serve. If a served ball hits the top of the
net and goes into the proper court, “let” is called and the serve is replayed.
Fails in both attempts to serve the ball into the proper court
Hits the ball outside the proper boundary lines
Hits the ball into the net
Lets the ball bounce twice before returning it
Reaches over the net to hit a ball before it has bounced
Throws the racket and hits the ball
Touches the net with her body or racket while the ball is in play
Deliberately carries or catches the ball on the racket strings
Does anything to hinder the opponent in making a shot
Touches the ball with anything other than the racket during play
Touches or catches the ball during play, even if standing outside the court
Doubles Rules
The server may stand anywhere behind the baseline between the center mark and
the doubles sideline (figure 7). The four players take turns serving an entire
game. The order of serving stays the same throughout the set. In a game of AC
versus BD, A serves, then B or D serves, then C, then B or D (whoever did not
serve the second game). Receivers choose the right or left side to receive serve
throughout the set. Other rules described for singles apply to doubles, except that
after the serve, the alleys between the singles and doubles sidelines are in play.
Only one player on a doubles team can strike the ball before it goes over the net.
Figure 7 Player positioning when beginning a doubles game.
Scoring
The server’s score is always called out first. Points are called love (0), 15 (the
first point won by either player), 30 (the second point), 40 (the third point), and
game (the fourth point). If the players are tied at 3 or more points during a game,
the score is called “deuce.”
After deuce, if the server goes ahead by 1 point, the score is ad in or advantage
server. If the receiver scores a point, it’s ad out. A player must win 2 consecutive
points after deuce to win the game. If not, the score is deuce again without limits
to how many times it occurs.
No-Ad Scoring
No-ad scoring was introduced to simplify the method of keeping score and to
reduce the time of matches. It is much easier for fans and players to learn and
remember a simple 1-2-3 system than the 15-30-40-deuce-ad method.
Here is how no-ad scoring works:
Tiebreakers
As mentioned earlier, tiebreakers were introduced so a 6-6 set could end more
quickly than a regular set. Tiebreakers are scored as follows.
12-Point Tiebreaker
In a 12-point tiebreaker, the player or team that wins 7 points and is ahead by at
least 2 points wins the tiebreaker and, therefore, a set. The score is called out as
1, 2, 3, 4, and so on throughout the game. A final tiebreaker score might be 7-0,
7-1, 7-2, 7-3, 7-4, 7-5, 8-6, 9-7, and so on (in points played). The set score would
then be 7-6 or 6-7.
The singles player (or the player on the doubles team) whose turn it is to serve,
serves the first point of the tiebreaker. The first server serves the first point from
the right side of the court. The opponent then serves the second and third points,
and after that, players serve alternately for 2 consecutive points until the winner
of the tiebreak game and set has been decided. The second server serves the
second and third points from the left and right courts, respectively, and this
alternating-service system continues until the tiebreak game is completed.
Players change ends of the court after every 6 points and at the end of the
tiebreaker. The player or team that served first in the tiebreak game receives in
the first game of the next set.
Coman Tiebreaker
The Coman tiebreak procedure, according to the USTA, is the same 12-point
tiebreaker, except that the players change ends after the first point, then after
every 4 points (after the 5th, 9th, 13th, 17th points, and so on), and at the end of
the tiebreaker (before the next set begins). The scoring is the same as a
traditional tiebreaker, and the procedure is the same as a set or match tiebreaker.
If the set score is 6-6, the player whose turn it is to serve serves the first point
from the deuce court. After the first point, the players change ends and the
following 2 points are served by the opponent in singles or opponents in doubles
—that is, the player of the opposing team due to serve next—starting on the left
side. Then each player or team serves alternately for 2 consecutive points
(starting with the left side, or ad court). The opponents change ends after every 4
points until the end of the tiebreaker.
1. The more frequent changing of ends results in elements such as the sun and
wind being distributed more fairly between the two opponents. In the
traditional 12-point tiebreaker, a player or team plays 6 consecutive points
from the same end before changing sides.
2. In doubles, the server will always serve from the same end of the court that
he did throughout the set, rather than having to serve from both ends.
Coman Tiebreaker Highlights
Following are some key ways the Coman tiebreaker differs from the 12-
point tiebreaker:
Super Tiebreaker
A tiebreaker that is played in lieu of the third set is called a super tiebreaker, or
10-point tiebreaker. The super tiebreaker is played following either the 12-point
or Coman tiebreaker procedures, except that the tiebreaker is played to 10; the
first player or team to win 10 points when ahead by 2 wins the tiebreaker. The
super tiebreaker is used in USTA league play, in many other USTA events, and at
a growing number of high schools.
Unwritten Rules
Because most tennis matches are played on the honor system without officials, a
few unwritten rules exist for players and spectators.
If you ask someone to play a match, tennis balls are your responsibility.
Take all practice serves before the first game begins, and not when it is your
turn to serve the first time.
In unofficiated matches, keep your own score. The server should announce
the score prior to each point.
Each player is responsible for calling balls out on her side of the court. If
you are in doubt, the shot is good.
Don't involve spectators in line calling. They are not in a position to make a
call.
Immediately and loudly make “out” calls. Never make calls on shots that
are “in” during the rally.
Disagreements of any kind between opponents should be resolved at the net
in a quiet manner so others are not disturbed. If the point is not resolved,
ask for an official, a tournament director, or the coach in charge, if
available.
If a loose ball on or behind the court interferes with concentration or
becomes a safety hazard, call a let immediately and replay the point.
lf there is an unusual, uncontrolled delay between the first and second
serves, allow your opponent to start the serving sequence over.
Don’t shout or distract your opponent in any way during a point.
Don’t groan, complain, curse, or verbally abuse yourself or others during a
match.
Avoid walking behind other courts during a point in progress.
When returning a stray ball to its court, wait until the point has been
completed on that court. Immediately returning the ball interferes with play.
If one of your tennis balls rolls onto an adjacent court, wait for play on that
court to stop before asking for your ball to be returned. “Thanks, court
two,” is one polite way to ask for help.
Shake hands with your opponent at the net after a match.
If you are a spectator, hold your applause or cheers until a point has been
completed. Tennis players react to sound (as in “out” or “fault”) and may
stop a point if your noise is interpreted as a line call.
Applaud or cheer well-played points, winning shots, and forced errors
rather than unforced errors.
Key to Diagrams
Step 1
Forehands: Controlling the Rally
Tennis is about control—controlling the way you move on the court, controlling
your swing, controlling your emotions, and controlling your opponent during
points or rallies. And the first shot on your rally-control list is the forehand. It’s
the most frequently hit shot, the most natural, and the easiest to learn.
Hitting a Forehand
Think of the forehand as the foundation of your game. Build a strong base with
your forehand, and it will support all of the other strokes. It can keep the point
going until you are in a position to win it. Use it to move your opponent around
the court and to take charge of a point. Your forehand can demoralize an
opponent with its consistency, and if it’s strong enough, the forehand can be your
finisher—your closer.
You can even use a forehand to hide your weaknesses in other strokes. Is your
backhand a problem? Position yourself on the court to hit more forehands. Still
working on your serve? Compensate with a big forehand. Not very good at the
net (yet)? Stay in the backcourt and pound the ball with forehands.
A good forehand tells your opponent that your forehand is a dangerous place to
go. Steps 9 and 10 cover specific tactics for using the forehand in singles and
doubles.
The forehand can be struck with a variety of racket angles, similar to the various
pitches of golf club heads. Several options are available so that you can you can
find a comfort zone and assume some of the responsibility for your playing style.
Although most players have a basic forehand grip, they make slight changes in
the grip during a point without realizing or remembering.
As your feet move to establish a hitting position, your hips and trunk get ready to
transfer all that energy to your arm and racket. As you move the bottom half of
your body into position, take the racket back approximately 180 degrees from
your intended direction—far enough to generate some power when it’s time to
hit. In other words, as you set up for the forehand, your whole body is winding
up. Sometimes you’ll take a big windup; at other times you can make it short and
compact. This sequence of events peaks when you swing to strike the ball, and it
finishes with the follow-through (figure 1.1). Starting now, everything you learn
about the forehand should eventually help you hit with power, control, and
confidence.
Preparation
1. Quick crossover or shuffle step to get to the ball
2. Eastern or semi-Western grip
3. Shoulder turn and racket back early
4. Square or semiopen stance
Swing
1. Upward and forward motion
2. Low-to-high swing path (waistline to shoulder height)
3. Early contact (out in front)
Follow-Through
1. Through the ball (fingernails point forward toward the net)
2. Up, out toward the net, and across (for the Eastern grip)
3. Up and across (for the semi-Western or Western grip)
Misstep
Your swing is inconsistent.
Correction
Keep your wrist in a fixed, laid-back position. The more movement there is, the
less control you have.
Misstep
You rush the swing or swing too late.
Correction
Prepare to return a ball as soon as it leaves your opponent’s racket, while it
clears the net, or before it bounces on your side and comes toward you.
Don’t worry. Although all of these options are illustrated and discussed, certain
grips, stances, and swings are recommended. Players can and have reached the
elite level using such recommendations. Others discover the grips, stances, and
follow-throughs that are effective for their particular body types and athletic
ability, and they also reach the highest levels of the game. But beginners have to
start somewhere. Forehand variations can be added or incorporated into your
game as it matures.
Grips
Regardless of how you grip the racket with your dominant hand for a forehand,
what you do with the other stays the same. Use your nondominant (off) hand to
support the racket while making slight adjustments with your right hand if you
are right-handed and left hand if left-handed. Using the off hand to adjust your
grip has to become an automatic response. One-handed grip changes are not
efficient.
Although we cover the Continental and Western grips in this section, the Eastern
and semi-Western grips are recommend for the forehand.
With your nondominant hand, hold the racket at the throat, on edge,
perpendicular to the court. With the other hand, shake hands with the racket so
that your palm fits against the back bevel of the handle. This is the Eastern
forehand grip (figure 1.2). Curl your fingers around the grip near its base. For a
right-handed player who is holding the racket out to the right side, the wrist
should be slightly to the right of the top, and the V formed by the thumb and
index finger should be above but slightly toward the back part of the handle. A
left-handed player should hold the racket so the wrist is slightly to the left of the
top of the grip when looking down over the top.
Figure 1.2 Eastern forehand grip: (a) for a right-handed player; (b) for a left-
handed player.
The Eastern grip was once the most traditional way to hold the racket for a
forehand, but it is no longer used by many of the top players. A problem occurs
when teachers instruct their students to grip a racket the way elite players do,
whether or not that grip is appropriate for less-than-elite players, because this is
usually too much information for the students to absorb. A majority of teaching
professionals stay with the Eastern forehand for beginners, but they allow their
students to experiment with other grips as they become physically stronger and
more advanced.
The advantages of the Eastern forehand are the natural position of the wrist,
more reliance on the shoulder joint, less stress on the elbow and wrist, and an
easier transition to net play. All are compelling arguments for using this grip.
The disadvantages include not being able to hit with maximum power on some
shots, not being able to hit topspin as effectively as with two other grips, and not
being able to easily handle high-bouncing shots.
Semi-Western Grip
Hold the racket with the Eastern forehand grip. Now rotate your wrist to a
position even farther behind the side of the grip. Think of it as being halfway
between an Eastern and a Western grip (the Western grip is discussed in the next
section). With the semi-Western grip (figure 1.3), you can hit the ball harder than
with the Eastern grip, and it’s easier to hit a ball with topspin. You can also strike
the ball earlier and catch it on the rise.
Figure 1.3 Semi-Western grip: (a) for a right-handed player; (b) for a left-
handed player.
The semi-Western grip has disadvantages. It may be harder for some beginners
to master. It definitely is not a great grip for returning low-bouncing balls, and
it’s an inefficient grip for net play. It’s also a more difficult adjustment to go
from a semi-Western grip to one that can be used at the net on volleys. The
switch from an Eastern forehand to a volleying grip is a smoother transition.
Many players who use the semi-Western grip are never able to make the
adjustments needed to volley and end up staying on the baseline indefinitely. If
this grip is too uncomfortable, rotate your hand slightly back toward an Eastern
grip. All of that said, the use of the semi-Western grip makes sense for a lot of
very good players. Some start with the grip, and others grow into it.
Western Grip
Again, start with the Eastern grip, wrist slightly to the right. Move it more to the
right until you have the semi-Western. Okay, advance it one more turn until your
palm is actually under the racket handle (figure 1.4). Feel weird? It looks weird,
too, but some players learn to play with the Western forehand grip and are very
successful with it.
Figure 1.4 Western grip: (a) for a right-handed player; (b) for a left-handed
player.
The Western grip is especially popular with players who stay on the baseline and
hit from an open stance. It’s great for hitting with topspin and for taking high-
bouncing balls, but that’s about all. Hitting low-bouncing balls and balls that go
wide to the forehand side is difficult using the Western grip. Western-grip
players have a difficult time adapting to conventional grips for the volley.
Unless you have a compelling reason to use the Western grip, don’t. There may
be occasions during a point when shifting to a Western grip will help you hit the
ball with extreme topspin or allow you to hit one that bounces very high. Other
than these occasions, you’re better off with an Eastern grip or a semi-Western
grip.
Continental Grip
Got all that? Don’t use it, at least not for forehand groundstrokes. There are
better and more comfortable ways to grip the racket for this shot. However,
knowing how to hold a Continental grip will be useful when you reach step 3
(serves) and step 4 (volleys).
Whichever grip you decide to use, there are several simple activities that require
only you, the racket, and one tennis ball. The simplest one is to dribble the ball
on the court using the racket strings while holding the racket with the Eastern or
semi-Western grip. It’s something you’ll do without even thinking about it for
the rest of your tennis life, so you might as well get used to it now. To make
things more interesting, dribble along any line on the court or turn your racket
palm up and bounce the ball up instead of down. If you can do 100 up or down
dribbles without a miss, you’ve got it. Move on to something else.
Ready Position
The one thing that hasn’t changed about the forehand when changing grips is the
ready position. It’s the position in which you stand while anticipating your
opponent’s next shot. When you assume the ready position, it indicates that you
are alert, poised for action, and watching the ball leave your opponent’s racket.
In the ready position, your feet should be square to the net as you face it (figure
1.6). Hold the racket with a forehand grip unless you expect the ball to go
somewhere else. Flex your knees slightly and lean with your weight forward on
the balls of your feet. Place your hands and racket in front of your body, toward
the net, as you extend your arms slightly. Look over the top edge of your racket
at what’s happening on the other side of the net.
Figure 1.6 Ready position.
Home Base
In singles, the base of operations after the ball has been put into play should be
on or just behind the baseline at the center mark (figure 1.7). When in doubt,
take that position and return to it after each shot. The base will change during
rallies, depending on where you and your opponent hit the ball. In step 9 you
will read about bisecting the angle of possible returns. That’s another way of
saying stand in the middle of where you think the ball is likely to be returned.
For now, consider the spot at the middle of the baseline home base.
Figure 1.7 The middle of the baseline is home base between shots. It may
change, depending on where you and your opponent hit the ball.
Footwork
You’ve already been through the preparation, swing, and follow-through
sequence of moves for shots that come toward the forehand side of your body.
On shots that move you out of position on the court, there are two ways to
approach the bounce: the shuffle step and the crossover step.
Shuffle Step
To perform the shuffle step (figure 1.8), move laterally right or left, shuffling in
the direction in which you want to go. While you’re shuffling, get the racket
back in a position to hit a forehand. Keep your hips low to the ground by
bending at the knees slightly.
Figure 1.8 Shuffle step.
Crossover Step
The other method of moving to the ball is called a crossover step (figure 1.9).
The crossover step is used to run for shots farther away. The technique is simple:
Move to your right, pivot on your right foot, and then cross over with the left and
take off. To move to your left, pivot on the left foot and cross in front with the
right. It doesn’t matter if you are right-handed or left-handed. The technique is
the same.
Figure 1.9 Crossover step.
The following footwork drills will help improve your footwork. Once you are
able to move quickly from side to side without even thinking about footwork,
you are ready to concentrate on other fundamentals.
Variation
A variation of grounders is the wave drill. Start at the center mark on the
baseline. Have a partner or teacher stand 20 feet (6 m) in front and signal you to
move forward, backward, right, or left. Carry the racket in the ready position and
use the shuffle step to move right and left. Continue for 30 seconds; then change
roles.
To Increase Difficulty
The partner tosses grounders randomly to the right or left.
The partner increases the speed of the ball.
The partner increases the distance or angle between grounders.
To Decrease Difficulty
The partner tosses grounders only to one side.
The partner slows the speed of the ball.
The partner narrows the distance or angle between grounders.
Success Check
Shuffle your feet sideways without crossing one over the other.
Keep your hips low to the ground and your knees slightly bent.
To Increase Difficulty
The partner tosses balls randomly to the right or left.
The partner increases the speed of tossed balls.
The partner increases the distance or angle between tossed balls.
To Decrease Difficulty
The partner tosses balls only to one side.
The partner slows the speed of tossed balls.
The partner narrows the distance or angle between tossed balls.
Success Check
Use a quick pivot and crossover step.
Plant the outside foot; then push off for the next catch.
To Increase Difficulty
Don’t stop between drill segments. Keep moving until you finish 10
sequences.
Have a partner time the first segment. Try to match or break your speed
record with each subsequent trial.
To Decrease Difficulty
Move at a slow-motion speed to practice the footwork.
Success Check
Stay low to maintain your center of gravity.
Plant the outside foot to push off when changing directions.
Stance
There are four ways to position your feet when you hit a forehand—square,
closed, semiopen, and open—and you’ll probably use all of them sooner or later.
Square
The square stance (figure 1.12), sometimes referred to as the neutral stance, is
the most traditional and the one most often taught to beginners. As the ball
comes to your forehand side, move into a position so that your feet and
shoulders are somewhat parallel to the singles sideline. A right-handed player’s
left shoulder will point toward the net or the ball; a left-handed player’s right
shoulder will do the same. In other words, your entire body—upper body, trunk,
and lower body—is approximately perpendicular to the net.
Figure 1.12 Square stance.
The main advantage of the square stance is that it allows the hitter to transfer
weight into the shot. The disadvantage is that it takes time to set up perfectly,
which is not always available in rapid exchanges. It’s also harder to disguise the
placement of your shot. By looking at your feet, smart players are able to know
what you can and cannot do.
Closed
Assume the square stance ready position again. Now move the front foot another
step toward the sideline. Instead of your feet forming an imaginary line parallel
to the sideline, you have crossed over the line with your front foot. This position
is the closed stance (figure 1.13).
Figure 1.13 Closed stance.
You have no choice but to use the closed stance when you are hitting on the run
or playing certain shots. The problem is the transfer of weight. When you step
across instead of forward, it’s virtually impossible to shift your weight in the
direction you want to hit. Without a forward weight shift or a rotation of the
hips, the power that you generate has to come from someplace else. It’s a
mistake to learn the closed stance as the standard for a beginner’s forehand; but
it is important to know what it is, when to use it, and why you’re hitting in that
position.
Semiopen
Go back to the square stance. This time instead of stepping closer to the sideline
with the front foot, move the front foot slightly to the left and back a bit. This
positioning opens your hips and shoulders more toward the net, placing you in
the semiopen stance (figure 1.14).
Figure 1.14 Semiopen stance.
The semiopen stance is used extensively by elite-level players who are baseline
specialists. The combination of a semi-Western grip and a semiopen stance
allows a player to swing hard and hit hard—a very appealing way to play the
game.
Be aware of the semiopen stance, experiment with it, and use it if it fits your
style. Some teachers prefer to teach the semiopen as the stance of choice for
beginning players; most instructors, however, still start players with the square
stance.
Open
One more time, use the square stance as a starting point. Now move to the
semiopen stance, but don’t stop there. Go all the way to an open stance, in which
your feet and shoulders are parallel to the baseline and the net (figure 1.15). You
can even use the ready position as a guide to where your feet should be. They are
already in the correct position. Everything—shoulders, hips, and feet—is open to
the net. In the open stance, a player swings without trying to line the feet up with
anything. When the weight shifts in the open stance, the shift is to the outside
foot. Power is generated by an explosive arm action and by rotating the hips
with, not before, the swing.
Figure 1.15 Open stance.
Many tournament players use the open stance effectively with a semi-Western or
Western grip. They can hit hard, disguise the direction of their shots, and be in a
great position to cover the court after a hit. The open stance is a good option
when you don’t have time to set up in another stance, when the ball comes at you
directly, and when you have to move wide to hit a forehand.
The open stance versus the square stance debate among tennis players has been
going on for decades. The arguments usually have fallen along age-group lines.
Older players believe in the traditional stance (shoulders and feet parallel to the
sidelines). Younger players and their teachers prefer a style with shoulders
square to the net.
The arguments are simple enough. The square stance allows for a coordinated
movement toward the target, a longer hitting zone, and greater racket speed. The
advantages of the open stance are quicker recovery and better court coverage.
Powerful, high-tech rackets somewhat offset the need to transfer body weight
forward.
Reading about the way to hold a racket and move your feet takes more time than
doing it. Everything happens in a hurry during a rally, so don’t get discouraged
by wordy explanations. You’ll quickly reach a point in your training at which
you do things without thinking about them first.
Forehand Drill 4 Footwork Scramble (two players)
Stand at the middle of the service line. Have a partner sit behind the net on the
opposite side and toss 10 balls anywhere inside the two service courts (figure
1.16). Every time you make contact, the partner tosses another ball to a different
area of the forecourt. Don’t hit hard, and don’t worry about forehand or
backhand technique. Just concentrate on footwork, using any of the stances
described.
Figure 1.16 Footwork scramble.
Variation
For variety, have a partner stand at the net with a basket of balls and toss or hit
10 consecutive balls to your forehand side or down the middle of the court.
Return each ball with a forehand to the opposite singles court. Increase
difficulty, decrease difficulty, check your fundamentals, and score your success
the same as in the original footwork scramble drill. Again, concentrate on
footwork, not on stroke production.
To Increase Difficulty
Hit every shot with a forehand regardless of where it is tossed.
To Decrease Difficulty
Have your partner feed balls only from the center service line to the singles
sideline.
Success Check
Use shuffle steps for close balls.
Use crossover steps for balls that are farther away.
Plant the outside foot to push off in the opposite direction.
Backswing
Beginning players can simplify the backswing by taking the racket straight back
below the waist before bringing it straight forward to hit, similar to a door
opening and closing. Very quickly, however, you’ll develop your own unique
backswing style. As long as you stay within some general guidelines, it’s okay to
develop your own style of backswing.
The first rule is to start getting the racket ready (and turning your shoulders) as
soon as you know where the ball is going. Don’t wait for the bounce on your
side. The second rule is to find a backswing position that is neither too short nor
too long. If you are a beginner, start by taking the racket back far enough to point
it toward the back fence or wall. More experienced players may take the racket
back farther in certain situations. If your backswing is short, you can’t hit with as
much power. If your backswing is too long, however, the margin of error
increases. Besides, you don’t always have time for a long backswing. The last
rule is to develop an abbreviated looping motion with your racket—up, back,
and then a slight hesitation before swinging forward to hit the ball. A diagram of
the loop would look similar to a backward letter C (figure 1.17).
Figure 1.17 Backswing.
Forward Swing
Every drill up to this point has been done to get into a solid hitting position and
to build, in segments, momentum for the forward swing. Now you’re ready to
hit. The forward swing is a chain reaction of movements that started with your
footwork.
Taking a horizontal swing path with the racket face perpendicular to the court is
okay for beginners. Even world-class players flatten the trajectories of their
swings when they want to hit hard and flat.
Otherwise, the swing is forward and upward, brushing the back of the ball
(figure 1.18). The more vertical the swing path is, the more topspin is put on the
ball (figure 1.19). Topspin is good for control, consistency, and making the ball
bounce high on the other side.
Figure 1.18 Forward swing.
Figure 1.19 Swing path for topspin.
Keep your head still, hold the racket with a firm grip, and make contact early.
Wrist action is more significant in today’s strokes than in the past. A traditional
Eastern forehand grip requires a relatively fixed wrist position for most shots,
but players who use a Western or semi-Western grip put a lot of stress on the
wrist and forearm as they whip upward and across the back of the ball. Try to
make contact before the ball reaches a position that is even with the midsection
of your body. Some teachers advise hitting the ball a foot in front of the body.
You can’t always hit that far out in front, but do try.
To Increase Difficulty
Start the drill from the baseline.
Have your partner increase the pace of the setups.
Have your partner hit, rather than toss, setups.
To Decrease Difficulty
Have your partner reduce the pace of setups.
Start with the racket back.
Practice drop-and-hit forehands, with your partner dropping the ball on
your forehand side.
Success Check
Focus on control, not power.
Use a horizontal or down-to-up swing.
To Increase Difficulty
Count only those shots that bounce in the opposite backcourt.
Place and aim at targets.
To Decrease Difficulty
Move closer to the net to hit.
Use larger targets.
Success Check
Shift your weight forward when you swing.
Make contact even with or in front of your front foot.
Follow-Through
The way you finish a stroke depends on which stance and which grip you use.
Semi-Western grips are associated with follow-throughs that wrap around the
front of the body, even the neck (figure 1.21a). The Western grip follow-through
is shorter, similar to a windshield-wiper motion (figure 1.21b). For the Eastern
grip, the follow-through is upward, outward, and across (figure 1.21c).
Figure 1.21 Follow-through: (a) semi-Western grip; (b) Western grip; (c)
Eastern grip.
All three follow-through methods ensure that you don’t slow your swing down
before making contact with the ball. Instructors often say, “Hit through the ball.”
When you do that, you’re allowing for a normal slowdown of the racket head
after contact with the ball. If you stop short, you’ll probably hit the ball shorter
without much power. You may also expose yourself to the risk of arm and
shoulder injuries.
Check your follow-through by having your partner set you up with waist-high
forehands. After each stroke, freeze at the end of your follow-through. Check the
position of your racket against the guidelines just described.
Variations
One variation of the consecutive forehands drill is the consecutive crosscourt
forehands drill (figure 1.23). Execute the same drill, but direct all forehands
crosscourt (forehand to forehand for right-handers). Shots that do not fall into
the opposing crosscourt singles area are misses.
Figure 1.23 Consecutive crosscourt forehands.
Finally, try the alleys-only variation (figure 1.24). Stand opposite your practice
partner at the baseline behind the doubles alley. Keep the ball in play with
forehands, and try to make all shots bounce in the alley across the net. This
variation is very difficult and is better suited for intermediate and advanced
players.
Figure 1.24 Alleys-only forehands.
To Increase Difficulty
Each player has to hit up to 10 consecutive forehands (20 total shots).
To Decrease Difficulty
When one player misses a shot, put another ball in play and continue the
count for the player who has not made a mistake.
Conduct the drill from the service lines instead of the baselines.
Success Check
Prepare early.
Make early contact.
Complete the follow-through.
To Increase Difficulty
The feeder hits balls with more velocity.
The feeder hits balls that are harder to reach.
The feeder increases the frequency of the balls hit.
The feeder increases the number of balls from 10 to 13 to 15.
To Decrease Difficulty
The feeder hits balls with less velocity.
The feeder hits balls that are easier to reach.
The feeder decreases the frequency of the balls hit.
The feeder decreases the number of balls from 10 to 8 to 6.
Success Check
Use quick shuffle or crossover steps to move to the ball.
Experiment with an open or semiopen stance when hitting (to recover
quickly).
Hit and immediately move, anticipating the next shot.
To Increase Difficulty
Play every shot with a forehand even if the ball goes to your backhand side.
Increase the number of balls put into play to 11, 12, 13, 14, or 15.
To Decrease Difficulty
Loft the ball slightly to give each player more time.
Keep the ball in play rather than trying to hit winners.
Success Check
Maintain quick feet.
Take the racket back early.
Keep the wrist laid back.
Make early contact.
Expect every shot to come back. As soon as you’ve hit a forehand—just like the
great players do—use your off hand to adjust your grip and start getting into
position for the next shot.
Enter the numbers you recorded in the Score Your Success section for each drill
in the following scoring summary and add them to rate your forehand success.
Your goal is 45 or more out of 90 possible points.
Scoring Summary
Forehand Drills
1. Grounders: _____ out of 10
2. One-bounce catch: _____ out of 10
3. Shuffle–crossover step: _____ out of 10
4. Footwork scramble: _____ out of 10
5. Forehand setups: _____ out of 10
6. Drop-and-hit forehands: _____ out of 10
7. Consecutive forehands: _____ out of 10
8. Middle–wide–middle forehands: _____ out of 10
9. Forehand games: _____ out of 10
Some coaches routinely tell their players, “Feed the backhand and starve the
forehand” (of their opponents). With a positive attitude and the will to practice a
few simple techniques, you can cause this strategy of your opponents to backfire.
Make your backhand a weapon of choice and surprise. Then the coaches of your
opponents will tell them to stay away from, or not to serve to, your backhand.
Hitting a Backhand
There are more ways to hold and swing the racket on a backhand than on a
forehand, which gives you more freedom for variety. If you are new to tennis,
you can experiment with two or three grips and swing patterns to find the ones
most comfortable for your body and your style of play. If you’ve been playing
for a while, it might be time to see whether a change can improve your
backhand.
Too many players are satisfied if they simply develop a backhand that won’t get
them into trouble. As they get better, they begin to realize that the backhand can
be just as effective for winning points as the forehand. Once you have a
competent backhand, think in terms of controlling points with both
groundstrokes, forehand and backhand. Develop winning groundstroke patterns.
Make the other player expect a certain shot placement; then hit it to a different
part of the court. Use backhand and forehand combinations to make your
opponent cover more area. When you are in position for a winning forehand,
backhand, volley, or any other shot, go for it! Specific suggestions for backhand
tactics appear in steps 9 and 10.
Several of the footwork and forehand drills in step 1 can also be effective on the
backhand side. The step 1 drills that apply equally to backhand practice are
grounders, one-bounce catch, shuffle–crossover step, and footwork scramble.
Tips for increasing and decreasing difficulty, checking your success, and scoring
your success are similar to those in step 1.
One-Handed Backhand
The traditional grip for the one-handed backhand is the Eastern grip (figure 2.1).
With this grip, a right-handed player’s wrist should be slightly to the left of the
top of the racket handle when looking down on the racket, with the racket edges
perpendicular to the court. A left-handed player’s wrist will be slightly to the
right of the top. Think of your thumb as having a top, bottom, outside, and
inside. The inside part of the thumb should be in contact with the back flat bevel
of the racket handle. You can align your thumb in various positions along that
part of the grip, but it is essential that the inside part be in contact with the
racket. During a point, the thumb’s position may change, but the part of the
thumb that touches the grip should not.
Figure 2.1 Eastern backhand grip: (a) for a right-handed player; (b) for a left-
handed player.
You can experiment with the Continental grip (figure 2.2), but unless you have a
very strong wrist and forearm, the grip won’t work. With a Continental grip, the
wrist is directly on top of the racket handle. The thumb has to provide more
support from the rear because the wrist is not positioned behind the racket.
Extend your thumb along the back of the grip so that the inside part is in contact
and pushing against the racket handle during the stroke. If you use a Continental
grip for the forehand (few players do), you won’t have to change grips to hit a
backhand. The disadvantage is that some players feel uncomfortable hitting
shots this way on either side of the body because the Continental grip is halfway
between the conventional Eastern forehand and backhand grips.
Figure 2.2 Continental backhand grip: (a) for a right-handed player; (b) for a
left-handed player.
Regardless of how you hold the racket, start turning your shoulders and taking
the racket back as soon as the ball leaves the other player’s racket. Learn to
prepare as you move to hit; don’t delay. Use your off hand to lightly cradle the
racket somewhere on the throat. Leave that hand to stabilize the throat during the
entire backswing and as you adjust your grip after hitting every shot.
When hitting the one-handed backhand (figure 2.3), beginning players should
take the racket back in a line horizontal to the ground at about waist height.
Think of drawing a sword out of your side pocket. More advanced players can
try to develop a small loop by bringing the racket back above the waist; then
dropping it down below the back of the knee before swinging forward.
Preparation
1. Eastern grip
2. Racket cradled at throat with opposite hand
3. Shoulder turn and racket back early
4. Square stance when time permits
Swing
1. Weight shifted forward
2. Parallel or low-to-high swing path
3. Early contact
Follow-Through
1. Outward
2. Across
3. Upward
Misstep
You are holding your arm too high.
Correction
Position your arm at waist height or lower.
Misstep
You are holding the racket or racket head too high on the backswing.
Correction
Think about pulling the racket out of a pocket on your shorts or skirt.
Misstep
Your knuckles on the racket hand are pointing to the sky.
Correction
Your knuckles on the racket hand should be moving forward and pointing in the
direction in which you want to hit.
Three of the stance options for the forehand are also options for the backhand.
The closed stance is a necessity on some shots, but it is not recommended as the
setup of choice. The semiopen stance is good for court coverage, but players
using this stance may find it a little difficult to generate power. The ideal stance
for the backhand is, time permitting, the square stance because it is good for
transferring weight forward. A completely open stance is not an option for the
one-handed backhand. Although the open stance is great for covering the court,
it is only useful to players who use a two-handed backhand. Whatever stance
you choose, be sure to spread your feet comfortably to establish a wide base for
balance.
Keep your wrist firmly in place throughout the swing. The racket head should be
slightly higher than your wrist on all but very low shots. Try to make contact
with the ball when it is at least even with, and preferably in front of, your front
foot. Extend your arm comfortably when you swing. Find a comfort zone, and
groove your swing through that zone in a consistent manner.
Follow through with the swing out toward the net, across the front of your body,
and up, in that order. Think of reaching out for the net with the back of your
hand and then bringing the racket up and across your upper body. Finish the
stroke by pointing the racket generally in the direction of the target.
Two-Handed Backhand
Hitting a backhand with a two-handed grip is more common than hitting it with a
one-handed grip. The two-handed backhand (figure 2.4) adds power, helps
control the swing, and provides a better racket position to hit the ball with
topspin. The two-handed backhand, however, is not for everyone. The
disadvantages of this option include not being able to reach as far for wide shots,
an inability to maneuver the racket easily on shots hit directly at the player, and
the lack of strength development in the dominant arm.
Preparation
1. Two Eastern forehand grips, an Eastern backhand grip combined with an
Eastern forehand grip, or a Continental–Eastern grip combination
2. Quick upper-body turn
3. Open, semiopen, or square stance
Swing
1. Low-to-high swing path
2. Lift with legs
3. Body uncoils with swing
4. Ball contacted slightly in front of body
Follow-Through
1. Up
2. Out
3. Across
The two-handed backhand grip can be held in several ways. The simplest is to
use an Eastern forehand grip with the dominant hand and add an Eastern
forehand grip with the other hand (figure 2.5). The hands touch each other, and
the fingers sometimes overlap or are spread along the racket grip. Some players
prefer to use an Eastern backhand grip with the strong hand and an Eastern
forehand grip with the other hand, whereas others use a Continental–Eastern grip
combination.
Figure 2.5 Two-handed backhand grip using two Eastern forehand grips: (a) for
a right-handed player; (b) for a left-handed player.
Other grip combinations involving both hands can be used, but try not to get
confused. If you use one hand to hit the backhand, make your first choice an
Eastern forehand grip and support the racket on the throat with the opposite
hand. If you use two hands, try using a Continental or Eastern backhand grip
with the dominant hand. The second hand should take an Eastern or semi-
Western forehand grip. From that starting point you can experiment with slight
changes and find the combination of grips that is effective for you.
Use the dominant hand to make whatever grip change is needed quickly, and add
your choice of grips with the other hand. While you’re getting the right grip and
turning your shoulders, you should be moving toward the path of the ball and
getting ready to plant your feet. Take the racket back into a lower position before
driving upward and forward to hit the ball with topspin. Put backspin on the ball
by starting with the racket a bit higher than the waist and using a higher-to-lower
swing path. Turn your hips and shoulders far enough to show your back to your
opponent. Be ready to uncoil your body into the swing.
To Increase Difficulty
Start the drill from the baseline.
Have your partner increase the pace of the setups.
Have your partner hit, rather than toss, the setups.
To Decrease Difficulty
Have your partner reduce the pace of the setups.
Start with the racket back.
Practice drop-and-hit backhands, with your partner dropping the ball on
your backhand side.
Success Check
Focus on control, not power.
Use a horizontal or low-to-high swing.
Variations
This drill has a couple of fun variations. For the consecutive baseline backhand
variation, instead of playing from the service line, move back to your respective
baselines and count the number of consecutive backhands in a rally. For the
alleys-only variation, you and your practice partner stand on opposite ends of the
court behind the doubles alley (see figure 1.24). Keep the ball in play with
backhands, trying to make all shots bounce in the opposite alley or as near to it
as possible.
To Increase Difficulty
Start the drill three steps behind the service line.
Start the drill from the baseline (refer to the consecutive baseline backhand
variation).
To Decrease Difficulty
Resume or add to the count after every missed shot instead of starting over.
Success Check
Keep your off hand on the racket throat.
Make a quick shoulder rotation.
To Increase Difficulty
The feeder hits balls with more velocity.
The feeder hits balls that are harder to reach.
The feeder increases the frequency of the balls hit.
The feeder increases the number of balls from 10 to 13 to 15.
To Decrease Difficulty
The feeder hits balls with less velocity.
The feeder hits balls that are easier to reach.
The feeder decreases the frequency of the balls hit.
The feeder decreases the number of balls from 10 to 8 to 6.
Success Check
Use quick shuffle or crossover steps to move to the ball.
Hit and immediately move, anticipating the next shot.
Score Your Success
1 point for each successful backhand hit into the singles court
Your score: _____ out of 10
To Increase Difficulty
The feeder hits balls with more pace.
The feeder increases the frequency of the balls hit.
The feeder increases the number of setups from 10 to 11, 12, or 13.
To Decrease Difficulty
The feeder hits balls with less velocity.
The feeder decreases the frequency of the balls hit.
The feeder decreases the number of setups from 10 to 9, 8, or 7.
Success Check
Make a quick return to the ready position after each shot.
Keep your feet moving throughout the drill.
To Increase Difficulty
Play every shot with a backhand even if the ball goes to your forehand side.
Increase the number of balls put into play to 11, 12, 13, 14, or 15.
To Decrease Difficulty
Loft the ball slightly to give each player more time.
Keep the ball in play rather than trying to hit winners.
Success Check
Move your feet quickly between shots.
Prepare your racket early.
Complete the follow-through.
To Increase Difficulty
Return every shot with a forehand (or every shot with a backhand),
regardless of where it’s tossed.
Return every shot (backhands and forehands) to the backhand side of your
practice partner.
Return every shot (backhands and forehands) to the backhand side of your
practice partner beyond the service line.
Have your partner hit, rather than toss, setups.
To Decrease Difficulty
Have your partner alternately toss to your forehand and backhand.
Have your partner toss to the same side with every ball.
Success Check
Don’t watch your shot after striking it.
Shorten your backswing when rushed.
Maintain a “get-to-everything” attitude.
To Increase Difficulty
Exchange four consecutive groundstrokes before a point begins.
Score a point only when you force your opponent to make an error.
To Decrease Difficulty
Score 2 points when you force your opponent to make an error.
Success Check
After each shot, recover to the middle of the baseline (or to a point midway
between the angle of possible returns).
Make early contact on forehands.
“Build points” to set up a winning situation.
Success Summary
At most skill levels, the player who can keep the ball in play four or five times
during a point has a greater chance to win. The immediate goal for the backhand
is consistency. Once you can put the backhand where you want it consistently,
start working on more pace. The keys are quick footwork, upper-body rotation
during preparation, and a smooth but strong swing all the way through the ball.
Experiment with a variety of one-handed and two-handed grips and decide
which one is right for you. Find a groove so you don’t even have to think about
the mechanics of hitting the shot. Make contact early. In your mind, determine
that nothing your opponent hits can get past you.
Enter the numbers you recorded for each drill in the following scoring summary.
Add them to rate your backhand success. Your goal is 35 or more out of 70
possible points.
Scoring Summary
Backhand Drills
1. Backhand setups: _____ out of 10
2. Consecutive backhands: _____ out of 10
3. Middle–wide–middle backhands: _____ out of 10
4. Runaround backhands: _____ out of 10
5. Backhand games: _____ out of 10
6. Two-minute drill: _____ out of 10
7. Groundstroke games: _____ out of 10
With the serve, you get to hit the first shot in every other game. A strong,
consistent, well-placed serve is the first step toward taking the offensive. It can
set you up to win points, games, and matches with your other strokes. A weak or
inconsistent serve allows your opponent to take away that advantage. It’s all up
to you—completely under your control. Your opponent has to deal with it.
Players, teachers, coaches, tennis fans, and television announcers use the terms
hold serve and break serve. You are expected to hold serve—to win games in
which you are the server—because you are getting the first shot to start the
point. The guaranteed formula for winning a tennis match is this: During each
set, hold serve every time and break your opponent’s serve once. You win.
It’s not a magic number, but getting 60 percent of first serves in play is a
reasonable goal. When the pros get their first serves in, they win the point about
75 percent of the time. They serve down the center to take advantage of the
lower net and reduce the angle of an opponent’s return. They serve to the
backhand side if an opponent has a weak backhand. They serve deep to keep an
opponent from closing and attacking their serves. And they serve wide to either
side to open up the court for the next shot. You don’t have to be a pro to begin
doing the same thing with your serves. For tactics in specific situations and
against certain kinds of opponents, read steps 9, 10, and 11.
Hitting a Serve
You will eventually be able to do four things with your serve. The first is to get it
into play consistently while using proper technique. At the beginning stage,
technique is more important than consistency. Even if your serve is a bit
inconsistent at the beginning, good technique will produce a better serve in the
long run.
When you are able to consistently get your serve in play, the next goal is to place
the ball wherever you want it to go within the opponent’s service court:
The third objective is to hit more powerful serves. Power comes with increased
strength and improved coordination as you prepare, swing, and follow through.
The last objective is to be able to hit with a variety of spins. This step will show
you how to hit slice, topspin, and flat serves.
Once you can get serves into the service court, to a specific area of that court,
with power, and with spin, you’re no longer a beginner or an intermediate server.
Now, you’re an advanced player—at least when serving.
It’s more difficult for beginners to hold serve because they haven’t had enough
time to develop it into an offensive tool. Now is the time to start. The following
explanations, illustrations, and drills will help you develop a serve, beginning
with the punch serve for beginners and continuing to an intermediate and
advanced full-swing serve that can be used at any level of the game.
Intermediate and advanced players can skip the punch serve section.
Punch Serve
Hold the racket with an Eastern forehand grip for the punch serve (figure 3.1).
As your serving motion becomes more fluid, change to a Continental or
modified Continental grip.
Stand behind the baseline at about a 45-degree angle to the net, facing one of the
net posts. If you are right-handed, position your left foot forward at a 45-degree
angle; if you are left-handed, position and angle your right foot forward. The
foot away from the baseline should be placed so that an imaginary line drawn
along the toes of both feet points in the direction in which you want to serve.
Within reason, the exact alignment of the feet is a matter of individual
preference.
To toss the ball, hold it at the base of your fingers. Extend your arm, holding the
ball in the direction in which you want to hit, and lift the ball without bending
very much at the elbow. As you lift, release the ball at eye level by opening your
fingers. The ball should go up with little or no spin. Toss the ball so it reaches a
peak higher than you can reach with your racket. Work on tossing the ball to the
same spot consistently. You will not toss the ball perfectly every time, but
developing a reliable toss will be one less thing that can go wrong. The target
tosses drill will help you develop a groove (pattern) in your tossing motion.
Preparation
1. Eastern forehand grip
2. Body facing net post
3. Tossing arm extended forward
4. Racket behind head
5. Weight on back foot
6. Ball toss out and forward
Swing
1. Forward lean
2. High reach to hit
3. Wrist flop on contact
Follow-Through
1. Continued swing after hit
2. Out toward net
3. Down
4. Across
Misstep
The serve is short.
Corrections
Don’t let the ball drop too low during the toss.
Misstep
The serve lacks control.
Corrections
Increase the number of practice repetitions.
Take the racket to a position behind your back and touch the middle of your back
with the top edge of your racket. Lift the racket head a few inches, or
centimeters, and make this your starting point. Swing upward at the ball. The
serve motion goes up before it goes forward. Don’t let your elbow lead the
stroke; keep it up until after the hit. When you hit, reach as high and as far out as
you comfortably can. Your arm and racket should be fully extended when
contact is made. With the hit, “flop” (pronate) your wrist. Turn it down and away
on contact. After contact, continue to bring the racket forward toward the net and
then down and across.
The swing to serve a tennis ball is not exactly like the throwing motion, but it
has many things in common with throwing a baseball or softball. If you can
throw well, you will probably serve well. To assess your throwing ability, try the
ready, aim, throw drill.
Serve Drill 1 Target Tosses (one player)
Take a position behind the baseline. Extend your arm and racket up and forward
to gauge the proper height. Practice 10 consecutive service tosses (figure 3.2).
Let the ball drop to the court. Points count when the ball falls just inside the
baseline.
Figure 3.2 Target tosses.
To Increase Difficulty
Place a small towel or other target a few inches, or centimeters, inside the
baseline and count only those tosses that hit the target.
To Decrease Difficulty
Use a bigger target.
Success Check
Begin the tossing movement in the shoulder joint.
Extend your fingers with the toss.
Follow the ball with your hand and eyes.
Stand at the baseline of one court near the center mark. Attempt to throw 10
consecutive balls diagonally into the opposite service court.
To Increase Difficulty
Change positions along the baseline with each throw.
Start from a position one or two steps behind the baseline.
To Decrease Difficulty
Start from a position one or two steps behind the service line.
Count tosses that land anywhere in the opposite singles court.
Success Check
Place the opposite shoulder and hip toward the net to start the motion.
Step in the direction of the throw with the opposite foot.
Take the throwing arm down and back, bend it, and extend it up and
forward.
Reach high to release.
Put the entire serving motion into action by serving 10 consecutive balls into the
proper service court, but serve from a position behind the service line instead of
the baseline (figure 3.3). Practice serves from both the right and left sides of the
service line.
Figure 3.3 Service-line serves.
To Increase Difficulty
Move back to a position halfway between the service line and the baseline.
Serve five times from the deuce court and five times from the ad court.
To Decrease Difficulty
Move forward to a position inside the service line.
Success Check
Start with the racket behind your head or back.
Toss higher than you can reach.
Reach high to hit.
Keep your head up on contact.
Place a piece of tape across the service court to divide it into two halves, front
and back (figure 3.4). Stand behind the baseline near the center mark and serve
10 consecutive balls into the area between the tape and the service line.
Figure 3.4 Area 51.
Variations
For variety, try long-distance serves. Instead of serving from the baseline
position, serve from a position two steps behind the baseline. Another variation
is called target practice. Place a large cardboard box or similar target deep and in
the middle of the service court. Count the number of times your serve hits the
target. Move the targets into the service-court corners to make the drill even
more difficult (figure 3.5).
Figure 3.5 Target practice.
To Increase Difficulty
Use tape to divide the back service area into two parts, and serve alternately
into each target area.
Use a tennis ball can as the target.
To Decrease Difficulty
Move the tape closer to the net to allow a larger target area.
Serve from a position between the baseline and service line.
Success Check
Aim deep.
Reach high to hit.
See the contact between the racket strings and the ball.
Play 10 points against a practice opponent using only the serve and return of
serve. The server earns 1 point for every “in” serve. The receiver gets a point for
every successful return. Change from right to left sides on the baseline after 5
points.
Success Check
Concentrate on your serve, not the opponent’s return.
Make mistakes long (beyond the opposite service line), not short (into the
net).
Serve for consistency, not power.
Preparation
1. Continental grip
2. Feet at 45-degree angle to net
3. Toss slightly higher than you could normally reach with the tip of an
extended racket
Swing
1. Full down, back, up, and forward motion (some advanced players
abbreviate the backswing)
2. Full extension of body, arm, and racket on contact
3. Forward weight shift
4. Wrist flop on contact
Follow-Through
1. Out
2. Slightly down
3. Across
Misstep
The serve lacks power.
Correction
Pronate the wrist on contact with the ball.
Misstep
The toss is too far back (not inside the plane of the baseline) and out of the
swing path.
Correction
Toss the ball slightly forward in the direction in which you want to hit.
Misstep
The serve goes into the net.
Corrections
Keep your head up as you strike the ball.
Hold the racket with a Continental grip, although you may want to modify with
an Eastern forehand to hit the ball flatter (without spin) or with an Eastern
backhand to create a topspin effect. With the Continental grip, the wrist is
directly over the top of the racket handle as you look down on it.
Position your feet at a 45-degree angle to the net, spread more than shoulder-
width apart. Turn your side to the net and slightly bend your back knee as if
coiling your body. Rotate and uncoil your body toward the ball with the swing.
The angle at which you stand may vary a few degrees in either direction,
depending on your preference.
To swing, start with your weight forward. Point your racket toward the target at
about chest height, with your free hand holding the ball and touching the racket.
Drop your racket head in a pendulum motion with the racket head passing by
your legs. Some experienced players modify the downswing and backswing,
creating an abbreviated motion. Move the ball slightly downward toward the
front thigh before the toss at the same time the racket goes down. Again, some
advanced players may delay the tossing or swinging movement to establish their
own rhythm, but moving the hands down together and then up together is a good
starting point. Drop the racket arm down, and in a continuous motion, move it up
into the back-scratching position. Simultaneously move the other arm up to lift
the ball for the toss. The service motion should have a rhythmic feel.
Time the toss so that the ball drops to a point above your head and slightly in
front of your body at the same time you extend your racket arm to make contact.
If the timing is way off, stop and reset the service motion from the beginning.
The toss has to be far enough in front of you to force you to lean forward and
beyond the baseline as you hit. Keep your head up and look at the ball while you
are tossing.
To make the most of the weight transfer, move only the back foot during the
motion. As you lean forward, keep the foot closer to the baseline in the same
place, but move your other foot forward to meet it. Some players prefer to take
one step, starting with the rear foot several inches (or centimeters) behind the
baseline and finishing one step inside the line. Other players take a two-step
approach with the rear foot, bringing the back foot forward to a point just behind
the front foot prior to hitting. This movement results in a springboard effect and
may even supply added height and leverage if you get up on your toes to hit.
Whether you employ a one-step or two-step approach with the back foot, bend
your knees while preparing to hit. Part of the uncoiling motion of the body
includes exploding upward from a knees-flexed to a knees-extended position.
Not only are you turning into the ball, but you are also springing up to unleash
the chain of events that starts with your feet and continues through the pronation
of the wrist as you make contact with the ball.
As you bring the racket up and behind your back, your arm should begin to bend
at the elbow and move through the back-scratching position. Extend your arm
fully to make contact with the ball. When you strike the ball, your body should
be almost in a straight line from your toes to your racket hand at the moment of
impact. Advanced players pronate the wrist on contact with the ball to generate
maximum power. Pronation means turning or rotating the thumb down and away
from the body.
After you hit the ball, let your back foot continue to move forward, touching
down on the court inside the baseline. The follow-through of the arm after the
wrist snap will take care of itself, usually finishing the stroke down and across.
Answer: They all go through a routine. It’s different in every sport and it
varies from player to player, but all athletes need to get into a
comfortable zone, and they should do whatever they think is necessary to
get there.
What you do is not important (as long as it doesn’t affect your serve in a
negative way), but doing something to get into that performance zone is.
Develop your particular pre-serve routine. If it doesn’t seem to be
working, change it.
To Increase Difficulty
Alternate serving from deuce and ad positions with every serve.
Serve only to a right-handed player’s backhand side of the service court.
To Decrease Difficulty
Attempt all 10 serves from the same position.
Success Check
Use a Continental grip.
Toss in front of your body higher than the extended racket.
Score Your Success
1 point for each successful serve
Your score: ___ out of 10
Play 10 points against a partner using only the serve and service return. The
server gets a point for each serve in play. The receiver gets a point for each
successful return. Change from right to left sides on the baseline after 5 points.
To Increase Difficulty
Allow the server only one chance to put the ball into play, rather than
allowing the usual first serve, second serve routine.
To Decrease Difficulty
Allow the server to stand inside the baseline.
Allow the server two chances to put the serve into play.
Success Check
Concentrate on your serve, not your opponent’s return.
Aim deep; make mistakes long, not short.
Focus on consistency, not power.
Place a strip of tape across the service court to divide it into two halves, front
and back. Place another strip of tape to divide the back area of the service court,
right and left (see figure 3.7). Serve 10 consecutive balls—5 to the right target
area and 5 to the left target area. Record the number of “in” serves.
Figure 3.7 Area 51, advanced.
To Increase Difficulty
Use tape to divide the service court into three target areas (forehand corner,
backhand corner, and middle), and serve alternately into each area.
Use a tennis ball can as a target.
To Decrease Difficulty
Move the tape closer to the net to create a larger target area.
Success Check
Visualize each serve hitting the target area.
Maintain racket-head speed throughout the motion.
The point of contact between the racket and the ball varies depending on the
kind of spin you want to put on the ball. For an extreme slice serve, a right-
handed player tosses the ball wider and lower to the right than on a conventional
serve. The racket strings strike the ball more to the side—at 2:00 or 3:00 instead
of 1:00, when imagining the ball as the face of a clock (figure 3.8). Think of
scraping your racket face around the edge of the ball.
Figure 3.8 Where to strike the ball for flat, slice, and topspin serves.
Topspin Serve
To serve with topspin, toss the ball almost directly overhead. The racket brushes
upward behind the ball from 7:00 in the direction of 1:00 (see figure 3.8).
Contact is farther back than in a normal serving motion. Topspin serves should
clear the net 2 or 3 feet (60-90 cm) higher than the flat serve. To achieve a
topspin effect, change your grip from a Continental to an Eastern backhand.
Slice and topspin work well on second serves. The racket speed is the same or
even faster than on first serves, but the angle at which the racket contacts the ball
imparts spin, creating a greater margin of error and a safer service attempt.
Flat Serve
To hit a flat, hard serve, some players change from the Continental grip to an
Eastern grip. Instead of trying to put sidespin or topspin on the ball, they position
the wrist so the face of the racket strikes the ball in the middle of the clock face
(see figure 3.8).
Now that you can hit serves and groundstrokes, it’s time to play tennis. Play a set
using no-ad scoring. The first player to win 4 points wins each game. If the score
in a game is 3-3, the receiver has the option of receiving the serve from either
the left or right side. Do the best you can if you have to hit volleys. Volleys are
covered in step 4.
To Increase Difficulty
Allow the opponent the choice of the right or left side on all points.
The server gets only one attempt on each service point.
To Decrease Difficulty
The server chooses the right or left side on all points.
The server gets three attempts on each service point.
Begin serving the set.
Use all second serves.
Success Check
Eliminate double faults.
Increase the “in play” percentage of first serves.
Play a set using conventional scoring. Spin the racket in the hands to determine
side and first serve. Change ends of the court every time the total number of
games is an odd number.
To Increase Difficulty
The server gets only one attempt on each service point.
To Decrease Difficulty
The server gets three attempts on each service point.
Success Check
Concentrate on holding serve.
Extend fully on service contact.
Snap your wrist at the top of the swing.
Returning a Serve
If your opponent is serving from the deuce court, stand on the right side
of the court as you face the net on or slightly in front of the baseline, near
the singles sideline (figure 3.9a). When your opponent serves from the
ad court, stand slightly in front of the baseline on the left side of the
court near the opposite singles sideline (figure 3.9b).
Figure 3.9 Returning the serve: (a) from the deuce court; (b) from the ad
court.
As in returning other shots in tennis, the idea is to position yourself in
the middle of an extreme angle to which your opponent can serve. If
your opponent has a weak first serve or a second serve with less pace,
move forward a step or two before the service motion. Against a faster
serve, especially on a fast court, play farther back to give yourself more
time to react.
A beginning player serves with less pace, so return the serve just as you
would return any other groundstroke. Watch your opponent’s racket face
when she is serving. As soon as you determine whether the ball is
coming to your forehand or backhand, adjust your grip. If you are
holding a forehand grip and the serve comes to the forehand side, no
adjustment is necessary. If the serve comes to the other side, however,
change to either the Eastern or two-handed backhand grip.
Move to the ball, and while turning your shoulders, get your racket back
early. If you have time, step forward and swing in a parallel-to-the-court
or slightly upward motion. Play against the ball, not your opponent.
Concentrate on the service return as if you were returning forehands or
backhands in a groundstroke drill. The idea is to put the ball in play and
quickly get into a position to win the point. If you can control the ball,
think crosscourt, high over the net, and deep to your opponent’s
backcourt.
You may not have time to set up in a traditional square stance to transfer
your weight forward. If this is the case, turn your shoulders and shorten
your backswing. Insufficient time also may not allow you to take the full,
looping swing many players use to return groundstrokes. If you have
time, however, go ahead and step forward quickly with the opposite foot.
Finally, do not fight power with power. If your opponent serves hard,
hold your racket tightly and block the shot (return the ball with a very
short swinging motion). Rebound the pace provided by the serve. If the
ball comes at a slower pace, then you can go back to your normal
preparation and supply the power yourself.
Success Summary
The fundamentals for both beginner and intermediate serves are remarkably
similar. Position the front foot at a 45-degree angle to the net. Toss higher than
you can reach. Extend your body, arm, and racket fully to make contact with the
ball. To get more power, increase the speed of the racket head and snap the wrist
at contact.
For beginners, total the points you earned in drills 1 through 5 in the following
scoring summary. If you scored 25 or more out of 50 possible points, you’re
ready to work on a full-swing serve.
Intermediate and advanced players enter the number of points scored in drills 6
through 10 in the scoring summary. Your goal is perfection, but 25 out of 42 (60
percent) is okay for now.
Scoring Summary
Serve Drills
Punch Serve Drills
1. Target tosses: _____ out of 10
2. Ready, aim, throw: _____ out of 10
3. Service-line serves: _____ out of 10
4. Area 51: _____ out of 10
5. Serve and return games: _____ out of 10
Tennis players have to hit serves, forehands, and backhands to play the game,
but in most singles situations they are not forced to hit volleys. Using a volley as
an offensive weapon is a choice—a mind-set and a skill set. You have to want to
get into a position in which you can hit volleys instead of depending solely on
your groundstrokes to win points.
Having the ability to return shots from any position on the court, before or after
the bounce, means you are no longer just a baseline player. You are now an all-
court player.
Some players are so good at hitting groundstrokes from the baseline (or their
rackets are so powerful) that they can win without good volleying skills. For all-
court players, volleys become part of an offensive and defensive game plan.
Why not enjoy having one more good shot?
In this step and in steps 9 and 10, you will read about situations that give you an
advantage if you get to the net during a rally. Against which kind of opponent
are volleys the most effective? When, during a rally, do you decide to use a
volley? What kind of shot do you hit to put yourself in a position to hit a volley?
And what should you expect your opponent to do after you’ve hit a volley?
Don’t be satisfied with merely “hitting” a volley. Learn to hit it with pace and
direction. A weak volley may cause you to lose the point on the next shot. A
strong volley sets you up to win the point on the next shot.
Volleys are not important to all players in singles, but in doubles, volleys are a
necessity for everyone. Good doubles teams get to the net early during a rally
and often during a match. The net is where most points are won or lost. Timid
players who don’t play the net well or stay back on the baseline are always on
the defensive. They allow the other team to force the action.
The technique for hitting volleys is very different from the technique used for
groundstrokes. You’ll use a different grip, hold your arm at a different angle,
take a shorter backswing, and finish with an abbreviated follow-through. The
following section explains how.
Hitting a Volley
The ready position for a volley is the same as that for groundstrokes, except that
your racket head is higher. With your chin up, you should be able to see just
above the top edge of your racket (figure 4.1). Don’t split your eyesight (one eye
on each side of the racket edge); never allow the racket to distort your vision.
Figure 4.1 Volley ready position.
When you are close to the net, your opponent’s shot arrives sooner, and there is
not enough time to take your racket back very far. The backswing on both the
forehand and backhand sides should be a short, restricted motion. As you see the
ball coming, take your racket back to a point not much farther than an imaginary
line even with your front shoulder and parallel to the net. The back to the wall
drill forces you to volley with a short backswing.
Variation
Take a ready position exactly in the middle of an opened fence gate. A partner
stands approximately 10 feet (3 m) away and tosses 10 balls head-high. Step
forward (out of the gate) to hit a bump volley back to the tosser.
To Increase Difficulty
Volley so that your partner can catch the ball with ease.
Increase the distance between you and your partner.
Have your partner increase the speed of the tosses.
To Decrease Difficulty
Decrease the distance between you and your partner.
Have your partner soften the toss, head-high.
Have your partner toss only to your forehand or only to your backhand.
Success Check
Take a short and compact backswing, like a punch.
Step forward and away from the fence.
The Grip
If you are a beginner, use an Eastern forehand grip for forehand shots (figure
4.3) and an Eastern backhand grip for backhand shots (figure 4.4). Advanced
beginners and intermediates should learn to hit with a Continental (hammer) grip
on forehands and backhands, but allow enough flexibility to make slight
adjustments, depending on the situation. For that reason, it’s a good idea to grip
the racket loosely enough between shots to make changes but tightly enough on
contact with the ball so that you don’t lose your grip.
Preparation
1. Eastern forehand grip for beginners and advanced beginners (Continental
grip for intermediate and advanced players)
2. Off hand on racket throat, then out to help maintain balance
3. Racket head at head height with clear vision
4. Knees bent
5. Weight forward on balls of feet
6. Quick shoulder turn
Swing
1. Firm grip, wrist, and arm
2. Racket head at eye level with clear vision
3. Forward step (not across) with opposite foot at approximately 45-degree
angle to net
4. Blocking motion with compact swing; racket face slightly open
5. Arm in relaxed, extended position to slightly more extended position
6. Contact made to side and in front of body
Follow-Through
1. Hit by rebounding ball
2. Weight on front foot at finish
3. Recovery for next shot
Misstep
Contact is late.
Correction
Shorten your backswing; extend farther in front.
Preparation
1. Eastern backhand grip for beginners (Continental grip for advanced
beginners, intermediates, and advanced players)
2. Off hand on racket throat
3. Racket head at head height with clear vision
4. Knees bent
5. Weight forward on balls of feet
6. Quick shoulder turn
Swing
1. Firm grip, wrist, and arm
2. Racket head at eye level with clear vision
3. Forward step (not across) with opposite foot at approximately 45-degree
angle to net
4. Blocking motion with compact swing; racket face slightly open
5. Arm in bent position to slightly (not fully) extended position
6. Contact made to side and in front of body
Follow-Through
1. Hit by rebounding ball
2. Weight on front foot at finish
3. Recovery for next shot
Misstep
The backhand volley has no power.
Corrections
Move forward as you hit.
In the Continental (hammer) grip, the wrist is directly on top of the racket handle
(figure 4.5). The thumb has to provide more support from the rear because the
wrist is not positioned behind the racket. Extend your thumb along the back of
the grip so the inside part of the thumb knuckle is in contact, not the flat part of
your thumb.
Figure 4.5 Continental grip: (a) for a right-handed player; (b) for a left-handed
player.
On many shots there isn’t time to change back and forth between grips. Getting
used to an all-purpose grip, however, is difficult and not always appropriate. In
such cases, slight adjustments can be made. For example, on a high volley to the
forehand side, making a slight wrist movement toward a forehand grip works, as
does a move toward a backhand grip on the opposite side. The advantage of the
Continental grip is that it prevents having to change grips from the forehand to
the backhand. The disadvantage is that some players don’t have the forearm
strength that the Continental grip requires, or they just never feel comfortable
with it.
To Increase Difficulty
Place a coin between your racket handle and little finger. If the coin falls
out during the preparation, you have changed grips.
To Decrease Difficulty
Hold your free hand at your side to help maintain balance.
Choke up on the grip.
Success Check
Use a hammer grip.
Keep the racket in front of your body, with the racket head up.
Keep a tight grip on contact.
The Swing
The motion of the volley is more of a punch or a rebound, depending on the pace
of the drive hit at you. Your body’s forward lean or movement also affects the
pace of the ball. Stand in the ready position 8 to 10 feet (about 2 to 3 m) from the
net. Move in closer if you are hitting volleys for the first time. Keep the racket
directly in front of your body, with your arms extended and your off hand on the
racket throat. The racket should be out in front of your body, exactly halfway
between your forehand and backhand sides. Keep your weight forward so that
your shoe heels barely touch the court. Take a deep bend in the knees to get the
feeling of hitting from a crouched position. Bend forward at the waist slightly.
Remember, as the ball approaches, you want to be in a position to spring
forward.
If the ball comes to your right side, use your right foot to pivot. With your left
foot, step forward in the direction in which you want to hit (figure 4.3b, the
forehand volley swing). Concentrate on moving forward, not to the side. If the
ball comes to your left side, pivot on the left foot, and step forward and into the
ball with the right foot (figure 4.4b, the backhand volley swing). If the ball
comes directly at you, slide to one side of the path of the ball by pushing off with
one foot and stepping at an angle toward the net with the other. Maneuvering to
hit a backhand for these direct shots is easier than maneuvering to hit a forehand.
View your swing for forehand and backhand volleys in a mirror. Remember to
look for one component of the swing at a time (footwork, grip, punching
motion). If a mirror is not available, close your eyes and visualize the swing.
To be extra alert, many players crouch low and bounce on the balls of their feet
when they expect a shot to be hit right at them. If the shot comes low, don’t stand
straight up and put the racket down to hit the ball. Instead, bend your knees even
more and get down to eye level with the ball.
Throughout the entire volley motion, keep your wrist locked so that the racket
forms a near 90-degree angle with your forearm. Start the stroke with your arm
in a slightly bent position, and extend your arm as you make contact. Do not
extend your arm fully; you don’t want to make contact with a straight, stiff arm.
Lead the stroke with the racket head and dominant hand pushing forward at the
same time. Make contact well in front of your body. Attack the ball out in front
before it advances on you.
If you have stepped forward, your weight should be on the foot closer to the net.
The shoulder closer to the net should be tilted downward slightly. Direct your
volleys deep into the backcourt or at an angle to pull the other player off the
court.
Use a short follow-through in the direction in which you want to hit, but recover
quickly for the next shot. Hit through the ball; do not slow your swing down
before making impact. Finish the shot leaning forward with your weight on the
front foot.
Variation
For variety, have a partner stand about 20 feet (6 m) from you and toss 10 balls
to both your forehand and backhand sides. Instead of gripping the racket on the
handle, choke up and hold it on the throat for more control. Do not swing hard.
Just bump the ball back to the tosser.
To Increase Difficulty
Have your partner toss either right or left randomly.
Have your partner increase the pace of the toss.
Have your partner vary the height of the setup.
Have your partner toss far enough away to make you take more than one or
two steps.
To Decrease Difficulty
Have your partner toss only to your forehand side or your backhand side.
Have your partner stand closer and toss softly, slightly higher than eye
level.
Success Check
Get to the ball in time to hit it at shoulder height.
Step forward with the left foot on the forehand side and the right foot on the
backhand side (for right-handers).
Don’t try to win points. Just get used to the idea that not only can you play at the
net, but you can also place the ball wherever you want it to go. Later, you can
begin hitting volleys with pace and purpose.
To Increase Difficulty
Volley against two players on the baseline, alternating volleys to each.
Have the baseline player move inside the service line and exchange
consecutive volleys (both players hitting volleys).
To Decrease Difficulty
Move back a step or two from the net to give yourself more time to react.
Have your partner feed only forehands or only backhands so you don’t have
to change grips.
Success Check
Watch your partner’s racket face on contact with the ball.
Stay light on your feet; keep them moving.
Recover quickly after each shot.
For low volleys, aim deep and down the line, or deep and down the middle.
When close to the net, practice using underspin to hit a drop volley or no spin to
hit a stop volley—one with little or no pace and with backspin. Get low to the
ground by bending your knees. Spread your feet to establish a low center of
gravity and maintain good balance.
A high volley hit near the net is what every volleyer wants. This type of volley is
the way to finish points with crisp, angled shots. If you are inside the service
court and your opponent hits a return that fits the description, close in and go for
it! Rotate your shoulders early and move your feet quickly, pushing off toward
the ball. Use a moderate to short backswing and a short follow-through. Go for a
winner into an open corner of the court and recover quickly in anticipation of
your opponent’s next shot, even if you think the point is over.
The only way to hit an effective wide-angled volley is to move quickly as soon
as you anticipate the direction of the ball and see the ball coming. If you are
moving parallel to the net, it is difficult to generate any power because your
weight is moving to the sideline, not forward. In most cases, your arm has to do
more of the work to make up for the lack of forward body movement. Use a
compact swing from the shoulder, and lead with the top of the racket head
instead of the wrist.
Watch your opponent’s racket face to anticipate the direction of his shot. Try to
close at an angle toward the net when possible. Consider returning with a
crosscourt volley to the side opposite the one from which you are moving. Plant
your foot and recover quickly to protect the court you left open.
To Increase Difficulty
Hit forehand and backhand volleys alternately without changing grips.
Move the targets to different areas.
Use smaller targets (or tennis ball cans).
To Decrease Difficulty
Have your partner feed only forehand or only backhand shots.
Use areas of the court as targets instead of boxes.
Success Check
Make sure your hand and racket move forward together.
Use a slightly open racket face.
Aim for an area, leaving room for error.
To Increase Difficulty
The setters hit with more pace.
The setters stand inside the baseline to hit setups.
Record points only for those volleys that land in the backcourt.
To Decrease Difficulty
The setters feed balls only to your forehand side or your backhand side.
Count volleys that hit within the singles or doubles sidelines.
Success Check
Use a Continental grip.
Keep your weight forward and your racket up.
Recover quickly.
Split Step
Once you have learned how to hit the volley itself, you can work on how to get
from the baseline to the net so you can use the stroke. Approaching the net while
maintaining good balance requires a move called the split step. The split step
will help you spring into action either left or right as your opponent gets ready to
strike the ball. To practice the split step, start at the baseline and move forward
toward the net. Just before or when you reach the service line, take a short hop to
square your feet to the net (figure 4.11). Think of this hop as a hopscotch-type
movement you might do on a playground. Without coming to a complete stop,
move forward again to hit either a forehand or backhand volley. Timing is
important. Execute your split step just a split-second before the other player
strikes the ball.
Figure 4.11 Split step.
To Increase Difficulty
Points are won only by hitting a winning volley (one that is not returned).
To Decrease Difficulty
One partner starts the drill by putting the ball in play with a weak setup.
Success Check
Hit down-the-line or down-the-middle approach shots.
Split step after an approach shot as the opponent hits the ball.
Keep your arms and racket up to make contact in front.
To Increase Difficulty
Replay all points that are not won by a volley, keeping the same score.
To Decrease Difficulty
Play a set in which only one player wins the game by hitting a winning
volley.
Success Check
Hit groundstrokes and approach shots deep to open up volley opportunities.
Use good judgment when deciding to attack.
Score Your Success
1 point for each game won with a volley
Your score: ___ out of a maximum of 6 games
Returning a Volley
Most of the time, you will return your opponent’s volleys with
groundstrokes from the baseline area. Just as a player hitting volleys has
less time to react to your shots, you will have less time to return your
opponent’s volleys.
The first rule is not to panic. You don’t have to hit harder to win the point
on the first shot once your opponent has approached the net. Sometimes
it takes a setup shot first, followed by a true passing shot (a shot that
passes your opponent at the net). Just place the ball where your opponent
will have difficulty returning it. You have four return choices:
If you can control the ball well enough to return it directly to your
opponent, you’re good enough to hit it away from the net player.
Elite tennis players can predict the direction in which opponents will
return the ball (some of the time). This skill of anticipation is one of the
most valuable assets a player can have. Although reaction time is often
perceived to be an inherited characteristic, skilled tennis players use
visual information (the ability of an opponent, the type of shot,
preparation time, the position of the racket face, the court surface, and
the position of the opponent’s feet) to react to and anticipate the type,
direction, and pace of balls returned to them. Although you may not yet
have reached the level of a highly skilled player, it’s not too early to
begin developing an awareness of the factors that determine where a ball
is going.
As the practice partner, you can use volley drills 2, 4, 7, and 8 to practice
returning volleys.
Success Summary
A well-rounded tennis player can use the entire court, including the area at the
net. The more you practice volleys, the more comfortable you will be in the
forecourt area. Try to develop a variety of volleys—offensive, defensive, high,
low, and wide-angled—just as you learned to hit a variety of groundstrokes.
Before beginning your work on the next step, have your practice partner or an
instructor check your volley fundamentals. In the absence of an objective
observer, go through your own checklist mentally. Remember these basics: short
backswing, forward movement, early contact, and firm grip. Allow yourself to
be aggressive. When you are in a position to hit volleys, think about attacking,
not defending. Try to follow the ball with your eyes all the way to the strings.
Even if you think you’ve hit a winning volley, do not relax. Expect every shot to
come back.
For each of the drills in this step, you can earn points to chart your progress.
Enter your scores in the following scoring summary, and add them to rate your
total success. Your goal is to score at least 38 out of the 76 possible points.
Scoring Summary
Volley Drills
1. Back to the wall: _____ out of 10
2. Hand behind the back: _____ out of 10
3. Forehand and backhand volley setups: _____ out of 10
4. Consecutive volleys: _____ out of 10
5. Target volleys: _____ out of 10
6. Rapid-fire volleys: _____ out of 10
7. Attack: _____ out of 10
8. Volleys win: _____ out of 6
The half volley is not actually a volley, but rather a forehand or backhand
groundstroke hit immediately after the ball bounces on your side of the court.
The half volley requires about half the swing used for normal groundstrokes, and
you have about half the normal amount of time to prepare for it. When you find
yourself in a position in which you have to hit a half volley, it’s usually a result
of one of the following scenarios:
You are caught somewhere between the baseline and service line—an
uncomfortable position where many shots bounce at your feet.
You are late moving into position anywhere on the court (for example,
trying to get to the net after a serve or approach shot).
Your opponent has hit a hard drive shot near the baseline before you have
had time to move your feet into a position to hit your typical forehand or
backhand.
There are only three things you can try to do with the half volley:
1. Return the ball any way you can. Dig it out. The goal is survival, not
technique.
2. If time allows, take the chance to actually do something good with your
shot. Half-volley the ball as deep as possible into your opponent’s
backcourt.
3. If your hand reaction time is really good, place your half volley into an
open corner of the backcourt, take the offensive, and turn a bad situation
into a winning one.
Inexperienced players often find themselves out of position because they don’t
know where to go. Experienced players know better, yet sometimes they can’t do
anything about it because they’ve lost a step or two in court coverage. Even elite
players who approach the net following a serve have to hit half volleys when
opponents hit great returns at their feet. Doubles players use half volleys often.
Regardless of your ability level or age group, keep working on court positioning,
but develop the skill required to hit a half volley when you need it. Once you
have mastered the half volley, you will have moved from beginner status to an
intermediate or advanced level.
Preparation
1. Early shoulder turn
2. Wide stance
3. Short, abbreviated backswing
Swing
1. Early contact
2. Firm grip
3. Block ball
Follow-Through
1. Little or no follow-through when returning faster shots
2. Finish stroke when returning slower shots
Misstep
The grip is too loose.
Correction
Hold the racket firmly on contact.
Misstep
You are overhitting the ball.
Correction
Block; don’t swing.
Of all the strokes in tennis that will test your grip strength, the volley and the
half volley rank at the top of the list. You can be in perfect position, you can
anticipate what is about to happen, and you can be technically perfect—but if
you can’t hold the racket tightly enough to keep it from twisting in your hand
when you are forced to hit a half volley, you’ll probably hit the ball off-center
and lose the point. The grip is a component of the player’s strength that is
usually overlooked, and it can cause problems that keep the player from
improving performance. The Exercises to Increase Grip Strength sidebar shows
four ways to increase grip strength at home or on the court, using minimal or
homemade equipment.
For the half volley, there isn’t time to take a big backswing, so don’t attempt it.
Besides, a long backswing causes you to overhit the ball. All that’s needed is to
block this shot (returning with a short swing). As you turn your side or shoulders
to the net, crouch slightly (as though you are sitting on a bench) while you hit,
and stay low throughout the stroke. Get as close as you can to eye level with the
ball for balance. Block the ball in front and to the side of your position. Keep
your racket head perpendicular to the court. Use your off hand for support on the
backhand side to help stabilize the racket.
Don’t be concerned about a follow-through on the half volley. Most of the time
the follow-through isn’t necessary when returning hard-hit shots. Aim your
racket face in the direction of a target area, hold tight, and expect something
good to happen. On those occasions, however, when you hit half volleys with
balls that don’t have much pace, the follow-through is relatively normal.
After a half volley, expect the worst and hope for the best. Hit your shot and
recover immediately to the ready position, always preparing for the ball to come
back. If your opponent returns your shot with a weak setup, take advantage of
your good fortune and go for a winner.
To Increase Difficulty
Direct shots alternately to the right and left sides of the opposite backcourt.
To Decrease Difficulty
Drop and hit forehands with normal timing, gradually decreasing the time
between the bounce of the ball and hitting it.
Success Check
Maintain a wide stance.
Keep a firm grip.
Use a short backswing.
To Increase Difficulty
Move inside the baseline.
Have your partner increase the pace of the bounce.
To Decrease Difficulty
Have your partner toss balls rather than hitting them with a racket.
Have your partner toss balls higher.
Success Check
Bend more at the knees than at the waist.
Watch the ball into your hands.
To Increase Difficulty
Keep the ball in play against a partner.
Count only the shots that hit in the opposite backcourt.
To Decrease Difficulty
Count shots that go over the net.
Success Check
Use a compact and controlled swing.
Keep your racket face square to the court surface.
Variation
A variation of the no-man’s-land rally is the quick-time rally. Take a position on
the baseline. Keep the ball in play with 10 consecutive shots against a partner
positioned very close to the net. Your partner’s shots will be returned to you
even faster than during the no-man’s-land rally. You may have to hit some shots
with volleys instead of half volleys. Anticipate where your opponent’s next shot
will come. Again, technique is less important than reaction time and quickness.
To Increase Difficulty
Have your partner hit from the baseline.
Increase the goal to 15 total shots exchanged.
To Decrease Difficulty
Stand deeper in the court, nearer to the baseline.
Conduct the drill without keeping score.
Success Check
Bend more at the knees than at the waist.
Watch the ball hit your strings.
Use little to no follow-through.
To Increase Difficulty
Stand on the service line.
To Decrease Difficulty
Stand two or three steps behind the service line.
Success Check
Use a quick shoulder turn.
Contact the ball in front.
To Increase Difficulty
Stand on the service line.
Play the point out.
To Decrease Difficulty
Stand two or three steps behind the service line.
Conduct the drill against only one player on the opposite side of the net.
Success Check
Stay in a crouched position.
Keep your hands and racket forward.
Use a quick shoulder turn.
Block; don’t swing.
Success Summary
The test of your half-volley technique is whether the ball goes back over the net.
The shot doesn’t have to look pretty; it just has to be in play. Keep your vision
sharp, turn to your side early, and block the ball. Tightly hold the racket and get
the racket head low enough to dig the ball out of the court. Scraping the racket
head on the court is not anything to be concerned about. The half volley tests
your reflexes and fight more than your skill.
Record your score for each of the drills in this step. Enter the scores in the
following scoring summary and add your points to rate your total success. Your
goal is at least 30 out of 60 points. More is better.
Scoring Summary
Half-Volley Drills
1. Quick hits: _____ out of 10
2. Shortstop: _____ out of 10
3. Rib ball: _____ out of 10
4. No-man’s-land rally: _____ out of 10
5. Half-volley service returns: _____ out of 10
6. Hot seat: _____ out of 10
If you are a baseline player, you can strategically place a lob over the head of a
serve-and-volley player, you can use it to return smashes hit directly at you, and
you can hit a lob when you need extra time to recover from a shot that pulls you
off the court. If you have trouble with power players, the lob works like a
change-up in baseball. It upsets opponents’ timing and prevents them from
getting into a groove.
There is not much time to prepare for a defensive lob, so the swinging motion is
at times little more than an abbreviated block, or rebound, of a ball that has been
hit with an overhead smash. Defensive lobs should usually be hit crosscourt to
give you more room for error. When you are in control of a point, your
preparation for a lob should look as much like a normal groundstroke as possible
to prevent an opponent from adjusting to it.
Low, offensive lobs shorten the time your opponent has to react. The shot should
be hit in a direction parallel to the closer sideline, just high enough to be out of
reach. When possible, lob to the backhand side. Even if your opponent reaches
your lob before it bounces, she will have to return it with a high backhand—a
very difficult shot for almost all players.
Try a lob occasionally even if you lose the point. If nothing else, it will surprise
your opponent. Without the threat of a lob, other players don’t have to defend
against the possibility. They can anticipate that you are going to keep the ball in
play with normal groundstrokes, and that gives them an unnecessary advantage.
Include the lob in your doubles game plan. The alleys are in play after the serve,
giving you more space to hit. Returning difficult serves, lobbing on an offensive
service return over the player at the net, and lobbing when both opponents are at
the net are all ways to set up a winning point. Read step 10 for more about the
role of the lob in doubles.
Hitting a Lob
You can hit a lob using either a forehand or a backhand. The grip for a forehand
lob (figure 6.1) is the same as that for a forehand groundstroke and can be an
Eastern, semi-Western, or Western grip—your choice.
Preparation
1. Forehand grip
2. Run and plant foot
3. Short backswing on defensive lobs
Swing
1. Open racket face
2. Low-to-high swing
Follow-Through
1. High racket finish on defensive lobs
2. Complete follow-through on offensive lobs
Misstep
Lobs are short and low.
Correction
Aim for the back third of the court, or increase the length of your follow-
through.
If you are hitting a defensive lob, you won’t have much time to prepare. Making
a short blocking motion with a firm grip and keeping your racket face open to
lift the ball are about all you can do to stay in the point. If you have more time,
swing with a down-to-up motion to get the ball high enough to clear an opponent
at the net and deep enough to make him retreat to play the shot.
A backhand lob (figure 6.2) is hit with a backhand grip, which for most people is
either a standard Eastern or a modified Western. Players who use a two-handed
backhand may have more difficulty hitting a backhand lob because the racket is
a little more difficult to maneuver on hard shots hit directly at you. When you
have more time to set up for a lob, the motion again is a sweeping down-to-up
path of the racket (open face) to lift the ball high and deep.
Preparation
1. Backhand grip
2. Run and plant foot
3. Short backswing on defensive lobs
Swing
1. Open racket face
2. Low-to-high swing
Follow-Through
1. High racket finish on defensive lobs
2. Complete follow-through on offensive lobs
Misstep
Lobs are hit out.
Correction
Reduce the length of your backswing, don’t swing as hard, or compensate for
wind at your back.
When you are defending against a smash, you don’t have much choice about
what to do or how to do it. Staying in the point one more shot is the goal. But
when you have time to set up and your opponent is expecting a groundstroke, a
well-disguised offensive lob—forehand or backhand—can win the point being
played and can give your opponent something else to worry about the next time
she comes to the net.
Hold the racket as you would for any groundstroke, although you may have to
hold it tighter just before contact with the ball to withstand the force of an
opponent’s smash. No special grip is required. If a shot comes to your forehand
side, use the grip you have been practicing for forehand groundstrokes. Change
to a one-handed or two-handed backhand to hit lobs from the opposite side.
Look at it this way: The lob is just another way of executing a forehand or
backhand, but it’s hit higher, softer, and preferably deeper than a normal
groundstroke.
To Increase Difficulty
Allow your partner to smash any lob hit too low.
Try the same drill with backhand lobs.
To Decrease Difficulty
Execute the drill without a practice partner.
Success Check
Use a low-to-high swing path.
Keep your racket face open.
Here is one other suggestion to escape from trouble: Direct your lobs crosscourt
to reduce the amount of open court to which your opponent can smash. Open
your racket face slightly. Lift the ball with a low-to-high swing. Get it well into
the air so you’ll have enough time to recover and get back into position for the
next shot. If you can, follow through to ensure depth on your return. The follow-
through will be up and out, away from your body. A full follow-through will
help you get the feel of gently lifting the ball into the air and deep into the
backcourt. If you make a mistake, it’s better to make it too deep or too high
rather than too short or too low.
To Increase Difficulty
Keep the ball in play as many times as possible hitting only lobs and
controlled smashes.
To Decrease Difficulty
The player at the net hits smashes with less power.
The player at the net tosses balls deep into the backcourt instead of hitting
smashes.
Success Check
Use a delicate touch.
Block or deflect the ball; don’t swing at it.
To Increase Difficulty
Play the point out after the lob; don’t take a break before the next sequence.
Score a point only when your lob lands in the opposite backcourt.
To Decrease Difficulty
Have your partner feed shots only to your forehand corner, and later, only to
your backhand corner.
Success Check
Get a quick start.
Take the racket back early.
Aim high, deep, and crosscourt.
Prepare to hit the offensive lob by making it look like any other groundstroke. If
you give the preparation a different look, your opponent will anticipate what you
are going to do and get into a position to hit a smash. The downside of the
offensive lob is that the opportunity to use it presents itself infrequently, and the
shot requires more timing and touch than most players are able to master. The
offensive lob is not for beginners, but intermediate players can begin to
experiment with it.
Advanced players occasionally hit a topspin lob by rapidly brushing the back of
the ball with an almost upward motion and the racket face perpendicular to the
court. An effective topspin lob clears the opponent’s outstretched racket,
bounces, and picks up speed as the ball moves away from the hitter and toward
the back of the court.
For offensive lobs that don’t have exaggerated topspin, open your racket face to
direct the ball up. The point of contact may be farther back in relationship to
your body than on other shots because you are returning a forcing shot and
because waiting another fraction of a second usually means your opponent will
be even closer to the net. With an open racket face and a low-to-high swing, lift
the ball upward and hit it up to clear your opponent’s racket. The ball should be
high enough so that your opponent can’t reach it before the bounce and deep
enough so she cannot return it after the bounce (figure 6.5). If you have a choice,
hit to the backhand side.
Figure 6.5 Target areas for lobs.
Follow through in the direction in which you are attempting to hit. The follow-
through on the lob may not be as long as it is on other shots, but don’t restrict
this part of the stroke deliberately. Instead, hold the racket firmly, keep your
wrist steady, and try to carry the ball on your strings as long as possible. If you
think too much about shortening the follow-through, you may begin to slow
down your racket speed before contact.
After a successful offensive lob, follow the line of your shot and move forward
to the service line (figure 6.6). If your opponent does get to the ball, he will
return it with a lob. If you stay on the baseline, you lose your offensive position.
If you go all the way to the net, however, a good lob will put you on the
defensive again. From the service line you will have time to move closer to the
net for a point-ending smash. If your lob is returned deep into your backcourt,
you will still be in position to move back and hit a smash in the air or after the
ball has bounced on your side.
Figure 6.6 Follow your lob as far in as your service line.
To Increase Difficulty
Count only shots that land within 10 feet (3 m, or three steps) of the
baseline.
To Decrease Difficulty
Perform the drill in three-shot sequences (setup, lob return, another lob
return), and then start again.
Success Check
Think deep.
Direct lobs to the backhand side.
To Increase Difficulty
Play the point out before continuing the next two-shot sequence.
To Decrease Difficulty
Have your partner hit higher to give you time to reach the ball.
Success Check
Run to the side of and parallel to the path of the ball.
Lob high and deep.
To Increase Difficulty
Play the doubles boundaries instead of the singles court.
To Decrease Difficulty
Protect only half the court, from the center mark to the singles sideline.
Success Check
Block smashes with a firm grip and an open racket face.
Lob high enough to clear the net player and deep enough to make her
retreat.
Returning a Lob
If you are at the net and your opponent tries to lob over your head, you
have several options. If you can let the ball bounce without losing your
offensive position, play the shot after it has bounced and return the lob
with a smash. If you are very close to the net, move in and put the ball
away with a smash before it bounces.
If by letting the ball bounce you lose your attacking position, play the
ball with a controlled smash while it is in the air. You may not end the
point, but you will have put your opponent in a defensive position from
which one more shot will finish the point. If you are in a comfortable
position, go for a winning shot, either short and angled to pull your
opponent wide or deep to keep him in trouble. If you are not set up
comfortably, return the lob into your opponent’s backcourt with a
controlled smash.
If you cannot hit the ball on the bounce or while it is in the air for a
smash, turn immediately and sprint in the direction of the ball toward the
baseline. Don’t run directly under the ball. You have to be able to hit the
ball with something resembling a forehand or backhand when you arrive,
so move in a line parallel and to the side (typically the forehand side) of
the path of the ball and then past it. If you are timing your run to arrive at
the same time as the ball, contact will be too late. Think of outrunning
the ball to give yourself time to set up. It will make you less rushed when
contacting the ball and give you room to swing. If and when you catch
up to the lob, return it with your own lob as high and deep as you can.
Remember, technique is not as important as staying in the point and
giving yourself another chance to win it.
When you are in the backcourt and your opponent lobs, you can play the
shot one of two ways. First, you can set up and hit a controlled smash
into the backcourt. Second, you can return your opponent’s lob with a
lob of your own. Moonball rallies (lobs versus lobs) happen occasionally,
but they’re not very pretty and not much fun.
As the practice partner, you can use lob drills 1, 2, 3, and 6 to practice
returning lobs.
Success Summary
For lobs, use the groundstroke grips you have been practicing and shorten your
backswing. If you are in trouble, fight to stay alive even if your technique
suffers. Winning a match is war, not a beauty contest. Remember: Practice quick
feet, keep an open racket face, use a low-to-high swing, and use enough follow-
through to get the ball deep.
Enter your scores for each drill in the following scoring summary; then add them
up to rate your total success. Your goal is 30 out of 60 possible points.
Scoring Summary
Lob Drills
1. Drop-and-hit lobs: _____ out of 10
2. Three-shot lob–smash: _____ out of 10
3. Chase it down: _____ out of 10
4. Moonball rally: _____ out of 10
5. Lob retreat: _____ out of 10
6. Lob–smash game: _____ out of 10
What you do with overhead smashes depends on where you are on the court. If
you are inside the service court, go for winners by hitting into the center of the
open part of the court and away from your opponent. When your opponent
begins to correctly anticipate where you are going to hit and starts to move in
that direction, hit your smash in the opposite direction (behind your opponent).
When you have enough time to move back and let a higher ball bounce without
giving up your attacking position, go for an angled winner or hit deep into the
open corner.
At times you will be forced to use the overhead smash even though you are in a
defensive position. In this situation, the idea is to get the ball back, send it as
deep as possible, and hit your mental reset button to continue playing the rest of
the point.
Preparation
1. Feet staggered like a quarterback setting up to pass, using short, quick steps
2. Early preparation
3. Hips and shoulders sideways to net
4. Racket back early for abbreviated backswing (on lobs that bounce, use a
full backswing)
5. Continental grip
6. Opposite hand pointing to ball, which is in front of body
Swing
1. High reach to hit, contacting ball up and in front of body
2. Hips and shoulders rotate
3. Wrist snaps at contact
4. Close to net, go for winner
5. Away from net, go for placement
Follow-Through
1. Swing through shot
2. Racket moves away from body, across, and then down
3. Move closer to net if opponent returns weak shot
Misstep
The smash lacks power.
Correction
Make contact in front of your body.
Misstep
Smashes go into the net.
Corrections
Don’t let the ball drop too low.
As you are taking your racket back, try pointing to the ball with your
nondominant hand. This motion may not feel natural at first, but it ensures an
early shoulder turn. It may take some time to develop the technique. Pointing
can improve your concentration and make you aware of your position in relation
to the ball. Use the pointing technique only if it helps you hit better smashes.
Pointing is not an essential fundamental for this stroke.
The overhead smash swing motion is similar to a forceful punch serve. Swing
your racket upward and forward as if throwing it over the net. Reach as high and
outward as you can to make contact. As you swing, shift your weight forward.
Hit the ball at an imaginary spot in front of your body.
Because the Continental grip is between the backhand and forehand grip, and
because you hit the smash on the forehand side of your body, you have to make
some adjustments. Turn your body enough so that your nondominant shoulder is
pointing toward the net.
Rotate your wrist outward just before contact. Looking at the back of your hand,
your thumb will move away from your body, across, and down. The pronation of
the wrist allows you to hit the ball flat and with put-away pace. If you don’t flop
your wrist, the shot will have too much spin and not enough velocity. However,
there are times when smashes should be hit with spin to make the ball curve
away and out of the reach of an opponent.
To practice the wrist flop (pronation), stand close enough to the net to
touch it with your racket on an overhead smash motion. Start with your
racket behind your head. Now swing upward, but just before the
imaginary contact point, rotate your wrist outward and snap down so that
both side edges of your racket frame hit the top of the net at the same
time. In other words, slap the net with your racket face. If you do it
correctly, you should hear a smacking sound on contact. If this is too
hard on your wrist, choke up on the throat of the racket until you feel
more comfortable with the wrist action.
Follow-Through
Make your follow-through out, down, and slightly across your body. Bring the
racket through the stroke and return it to the ready position for the next shot. Be
aggressive with the smash, but don’t assume it’s a going to be a winner. It’s okay
to hit a first smash as a setup and then go for the kill on the second one. Either
way, the objective is to finish the point.
To Increase Difficulty
Retreat more steps after each net touch.
Increase the number of repetitions from 10 to 15.
To Decrease Difficulty
Execute the drill in slow motion until you feel more comfortable with the
routine.
Reduce the number of repetitions from 10 to 5.
Success Check
Maintain quick feet.
Turn sideways to the net when moving back.
To Increase Difficulty
Subtract a point for each missed call.
To Decrease Difficulty
Make 5 practice in or out calls before the drill begins.
Success Check
Read the ball quickly.
Make mental notes.
To Increase Difficulty
Direct your smashes away from the feeder but into the singles court.
Play the point out after each smash.
To Decrease Difficulty
Stand closer to the net and have your partner hit or underhand toss the lobs
lower.
Success Check
Keep the opposite shoulder toward the net until you are ready to swing.
Keep your head and eyes up while hitting.
To Increase Difficulty
Use smaller targets.
Direct shots to a different target with each smash.
Hit targets 1, 2, 3, and 4 in order.
To Decrease Difficulty
Direct shots to the same target with each smash.
Use larger targets.
Direct shots to an area of the court instead of at a specific target.
Reposition the player hitting smashes (up, back, left, or right).
Reposition the feeder (left or right).
Success Check
Keep your feet aligned in the direction of the target.
Focus on control, not power.
To Increase Difficulty
Have your partner hit deeper lobs on the first feed and wider setups on the
second feed.
Count combinations as successful only when your volleys are clear
winners.
To Decrease Difficulty
Don’t keep score; just hit the two required shots.
Success Check
Recover quickly.
Keep your arms and racket up and in front for the volley.
After a smash, immediately move forward, ready to volley.
To Increase Difficulty
Allow your partner to start the point with a deeper lob.
Earn a point on the third shot if your smash finishes the exchange.
To Decrease Difficulty
Have your partner start the point with a shallow, low lob.
Score 2 points instead of 1 for every winning smash.
Success Check
Smash wide to open the court for the next shot.
Don’t smash to the same spot on consecutive shots.
Try to anticipate where the smash will be hit so you can get a head start
chasing down the ball. Many players develop a pattern of hitting smashes
to the same area of the court. When you observe a pattern of smashes,
make a calculated guess as to the direction of your opponent’s next shot.
Don’t stand still and hope the ball comes close. Even if you guess, your
chances of guessing correctly are at least 50-50, which may also help
distract your opponent. If you show no movement, then your opponent is
in total control of the situation and his chance of winning the point is
even greater.
Hold your racket even tighter than you hold it on volleys. You will have
no time for a backswing. Find a way to get to the ball and block it back
with the open face of your racket. If you are good enough or lucky
enough to return a smash, recover immediately. You may need another
shot to finish the point.
If your opponent makes a mistake and hits a smash that can be returned
with a groundstroke, don’t overreact. Inexperienced players have a
tendency to try to blast the ball with a forehand or backhand once they
realize they’re still in the point and the ball is not coming as fast as
anticipated. Take that extra split-second, assess the pace, and go for a
passing shot. It is most unsettling to your opponent when you prove that
you are never out of the point, even when the odds are supposedly in her
favor.
As the practice partner, you can use smash drills 3, 4, 5, and 6 to practice
returning smashes.
Success Summary
Most players enjoy hitting smashes. You can hit the ball hard and finish the
point, one way or the other. The key is preparation. Take quick, short steps to
move into the best position. Take the racket back early, and keep the ball in front
of your body until it’s time to close in for contact. No matter how hard your
smash is, it may not be a winner. As soon as you hit to the open court, follow the
line of your shot toward the net and recover for the possibility of another lob or
an attempted passing shot.
Enter your scores for each drill in the following scoring summary and add them
to rate your total success. Set a minimum goal of 30 points out of a possible 60.
Scoring Summary
Smash Drills
1. Shadow smash and touch: _____ out of 10
2. In or out: _____ out of 10
3. Lob–smash combination: _____ out of 10
4. Smash to targets: _____ out of 10
5. Smash–volley combination: _____ out of 10
6. Lob–smash game: _____ out of 10
Use the drop shot when you are in a position inside the service line or closer to
the net. The idea is to disguise your shot so that it looks as though you are going
to hit a forcing shot deep into your opponent’s backcourt. Instead, you hit a short
drop shot that your opponent can’t reach before the ball bounces a second time.
Drop shots are usually hit down the line or angled away from the opponent.
They are also typically hit after a series of groundstrokes and when the opponent
expects a hard, deep, driving shot. The drop shot can be an effective substitute
for an approach shot. Although any player can use it, a well-hit drop shot is a
relatively sophisticated stroke used by intermediate and advanced players.
The drop shot is especially effective against players who are out of position, out
of shape, slow, or uncomfortable at the net (they usually stay back on the
baseline during rallies). It also works well against opponents who are hot, tired,
or lazy. That’s a lot of market potential. If you use the drop shot often enough,
your opponent’s concern is that you might use it again. This can make other
shots from a similar position on the court more effective. The drop shot also
forces opposing players out of a backcourt position and their groundstroke-only
rhythm of an extended rally.
Be sure to use drop shots occasionally even if it means losing a point. The drop
shot warns your opponent that you have an arsenal of shots and that you are not
afraid to use all of them. Just like other strokes and their variations, the drop shot
gives you one more option, and for your opponents, one more problem. In
tennis, there are great rewards for being deceptive.
Incorporating any new skill, including the drop shot, into a sport you
already play requires a five-phase progression of learning activities.
Professional athletes need several weeks of practice to make a major
change. Recreational athletes may need as many as 2,000 repetitions
before a new skill becomes second nature.
Step 1: Observation
The first step in learning a new skill is to get a coach, teaching
professional, or friend who has the skill to work with you on breaking
that skill down into smaller components. Someone who can see only the
big picture (e.g., whether a serve goes in or out) is of little help. A skilled
observer or teacher can watch for the correct positioning of hands, feet,
head, or any other part of the body instead of focusing on the result.
Step 2: Visualization
The second step, visualizing and then shadow-practicing the skill, is
skipped by many players but can be a valuable tool in the learning
process. It has two parts. First, imagine yourself executing the drop shot.
See yourself take the shot in your mind, imagining how you would
execute each element of the stroke. You can practice self-visualization on
a tennis court, at home, or anytime you have a few moments to see
yourself executing the skill.
Step 3: Simulation
The third step involves working on the new skill by simulating game
situations during practice. The soccer player develops a move to get open
for a pass. The swimmer makes a perfect turn off the wall. The golfer
hits out of a trap and gets close enough to the hole to save par. The tennis
player maneuvers an opponent into a position in which a drop shot wins
the point. The idea is not to play out the whole game, but instead to
repeatedly rehearse the situation in which the new skill will be used.
Step 4: Experimentation
The fourth step is to try the new skill in real but less valuable points,
games, matches, or situations. At every level, opportunities exist for
experimentation when little or nothing is at stake. You have to be
comfortable with the idea that you may hit a terrible drop shot or lose to
an inferior opponent because you are taking time to develop a new part
of your game.
Step 5: Utilization
The final step is to be confident enough to make the new skill an
automatic response in pressure situations. If you have to think about
using the drop shot first, it’s not ready for prime time. Your readiness is
revealed when you no longer analyze, plan, or experiment; you just use
it. Like any other tool in your kit, your new drop shot is simply there
when you need it.
Make the drop shot (figure 8.1) look like any other stroke hit from the forecourt.
To disguise the shot, don’t exaggerate the backswing, delay the stroke, or change
footwork. Hold the racket firmly, but not overly tight, and open the racket face or
lay the racket face back at the last moment. Some players change to a
Continental grip just before they hit to comfortably give the racket face a chance
to open up.
Preparation
1. Forehand or backhand grip
2. Preparation similar to normal groundstroke
Swing
1. Open racket face
2. High-to-low swing
3. Slower racket-head speed
4. Backspin on ball
5. Ball bounces racket head backward
Follow-Through
1. Abbreviated racket movement after contact
2. Anticipation of next shot
Misstep
The shot is too hard, too deep, or too high.
Correction
Open the racket face more, laying the top edge of the racket back, or slow the
racket head speed, letting the ball knock the racket head backward.
Misstep
Points are lost attempting drop shots.
Correction
Be more patient and selective about when to use the shot, or go back to the
practice court for more repetitions.
Start with the racket head above waist level, and swing down behind the ball.
Delicately lay the racket face back as if sliding under the ball as you make
contact. Slow the speed of your swing. Take a high-to-low swing and open up
the racket face more to the sky to give the shot a bit of backspin. Putting
backspin on the ball should make it bite into the court surface to slow it down.
Hit the drop shot at the height of the bounce so that the ball falls downward as it
clears the net. Slightly clearing the net is effective but not absolutely necessary.
Avoid hitting the ball so that it travels too close to your opponent after the
bounce. Ideally, the ball should move away from her after the bounce. Never aim
for less area than you need to beat your opponent.
Abbreviate your follow-through. The path of the racket will slide down more
than forward. Drop volleys (drop shots hit with volleys) are also more effective
if the follow-through is not pronounced. Whatever you do, avoid drop shots from
a position behind your baseline. Baseline drop shots will give your opponents
too much time to recognize the shot and allow them time to get to the ball.
Expect the other player to get to the ball and return it. If it isn’t returned, you win
the point. If it is, you should be near the net and ready to volley the next shot for
a winner. Hitting drop shots on consecutive points may be a good idea. The other
player may have to run hard to reach the ball on the first drop shot, and his
momentum does not allow for a quick change of direction. A second drop shot
hit to the opposite area of your opponent’s forecourt could produce a winner.
Drop-Shot Drill 1 Drop-and-Hit Drop Shots (one
player)
Stand where the service line intersects the center service line. Drop 10
consecutive balls and hit them with a forehand drop shot into either service court
across the net. Make each shot look like your normal forehand preparation and
swing. The shot is successful if the ball bounces twice in the opposite court
before crossing the service line.
To Increase Difficulty
Alternately hit shots to the opposite left and right service courts.
Attempt half of your drop shots with a backhand.
Make the ball bounce three times before crossing the service line.
Make the ball roll before it exits the service court.
To Decrease Difficulty
Have a partner softly toss balls to your forehand side.
Success Check
Keep an open racket face.
Use a high-to-low swing.
To Increase Difficulty
Stand closer to the net and hit the bump-up shot before it bounces on your
side.
Have the feeder alternately hit shots to your forehand and backhand sides.
Bump up with the forehand side of the racket head, and volley back to the
feeder with the backhand side of the racket.
To Decrease Difficulty
Have the feeder toss balls instead of hitting them.
Practice “air dribbles” (consecutive bump-ups) first to get the feel of the
ball on the racket head.
Success Check
“Catch” the ball on your racket strings.
Keep your racket face slightly open.
To Increase Difficulty
Have your partner hit setups randomly to your forehand and backhand
sides.
To Decrease Difficulty
Have your partner move forward to the service-line area and hit softer
setups.
Have your partner toss setups instead of hitting them.
Success Check
Maintain a slow racket-head speed.
Use noticeable backspin.
To Increase Difficulty
Allow your partner to start the drill one step in front of the baseline.
Score a point only if you win the overall point.
To Decrease Difficulty
Change the rules to allow you to hit any shot, including a drop shot, to
prevent the baseline player from anticipating the next shot.
Start the drill from a position behind the service line.
Success Check
Don’t give away your intentions.
Vary the location of the drop shot, and alternate with a deep volley.
To Increase Difficulty
One player hits all down-the-line drop shots; the other hits all crosscourt
drop shots.
See how close to the net you can bounce your drop shot—less than 20
inches (50 cm) or less than 10 inches (25 cm).
To Decrease Difficulty
Use one service-court area.
Instead of competing for points, work with your partner to see how many
consecutive drop shots you can both hit.
Success Check
Recover quickly.
Use your off hand to adjust your grip.
To Increase Difficulty
Both players must attempt at least one drop shot per game. If not, repeat the
game.
Award a game only when the ball bounces twice on a drop shot before the
opponent reaches it.
To Decrease Difficulty
Allow the player hitting the drop shot to use the alleys as well as the service
courts as target areas.
Success Check
Make a quick first step.
Delay your drop shot until your opponent commits in another direction.
As soon as you realize that the drop shot is coming, move toward the ball
as fast as you can. If you get there quickly, hit it down the line for a
winner. If you have to stretch at the last second, consider returning it
over your opponent’s head with a lob. Returning a drop shot with a lob is
difficult, but the lob may be your best shot because the face of your
racket is already open and your forward movement can carry the ball
deep. If you attempt the lob and it goes short, turn away and protect
yourself.
The third option is a tricky one—returning the drop shot with a drop
shot. There are two situations in which a drop-shot return might work,
and might is the operative word. The first is when your opponent hits a
drop shot, anticipates a lob, and starts moving back to cover the court. If
your touch is delicate enough to execute the shot, the other player will
not be able to recover quickly enough to change direction back toward
the net. In the second situation, you can experiment with hitting a
sharply-angled drop shot away from an opponent who is close to the net
but moving in the wrong direction. If you can pull off this last return
option, congratulations. You’re well beyond the beginner and
intermediate levels—at least on drop shots.
In the following scoring summary, enter your score for each of the drop-shot
drills. Your goal is 28 out of 56 possible points. If you score higher, you have
great touch and can add the drop shot to your collection of weapons.
Scoring Summary
Drop-Shot Drills
1. Drop-and-hit drop shots: _____ out of 10
2. Bump-up volleys: _____ out of 10
3. Drop-shot setups: _____ out of 10
4. Drop-shot points: _____ out of 10
5. Short game: _____ out of 10
6. Drop shots win: _____ out of 6
Your opponent. There are certain things you can do against an opponent
who clearly has superior skills (see step 11), but tactical planning won’t
help you win against a player who is simply better—or better than you on
the day of the match. At the beginner and advanced beginner levels, focus
on what you do well rather than worrying about the ability or patterns of
your opponent.
Circumstances. Home-court advantage is as important in tennis as it is in
other sports. The type of court surface, the court surroundings, and weather
conditions affect players in different ways. If, for example, you have a big
(long) backswing when hitting groundstrokes from the baseline, you won’t
have as much time to prepare when playing on fast or slick courts. If you
are a baseline player who hits without a great deal of power, you may play
better on slow courts, where the ball bites into the surface, slows down, and
sets up for you to hit a manageable groundstroke. Players with big serves
and strong volleys prefer fast courts and have an advantage playing on fast
surfaces. Players who depend heavily on big serves to win points may not
be able to serve as effectively on slow courts because rallies last longer.
When you know who you are and what you are capable of doing, knowledge of
singles strategy and tactics will allow you to move to a higher level of
performance. You’ll be able to use your skills to develop and execute a good
game plan—even one that might change during the course of a match. Some
people never get it! They would rather look good losing (this usually means
hitting hard) than look bad winning (playing ugly tennis).
Groundstrokes
In singles, other than the serve, groundstrokes are the basic tools that help you
build, or set up, points. Forehands and backhands from the baseline keep the
point going, allowing you to apply constant pressure, and put you in a position to
hit winners. Good groundstrokes also make opponents hustle, become fatigued,
increase errors, and leave part of the court open for future put-away shots. Here
are a number of suggestions to make your groundstrokes more effective:
When returning a serve, stand near the baseline in the middle of the two
extreme angles to which the ball can travel after it is served (figure 9.1).
Figure 9.1 Cover the widest possible angles when returning serves.
Bisect the angle of return of all possible shots that your opponent can hit, in
the backcourt and at the net. Inside the singles boundaries, imagine how far
to your left and right an opponent is likely to hit the next shot, and position
yourself in the middle of those two extremes (figure 9.3).
Figure 9.3 Bisect the angle of return of all possible shots.
Move your opponent from corner to corner during baseline rallies. The idea
is to play keep-away.
Hit the ball early after the bounce to gain an offensive advantage. The
longer you wait, the more time an opponent has to get into position.
Use topspin to combine power and control.
Use topspin on hard passing shots when your opponent is at the net.
Hit the ball flatter (with little or no topspin) on power groundstrokes.
Hit topspin groundstrokes higher over the net than you hit flat or slice
groundstrokes.
When hitting a passing shot (to pass an opponent at the net), keep the ball
low.
Don’t hesitate on passing shots. Make the decision early.
Run around your backhand to take advantage of your strong forehand when
time permits (figure 9.5; also, see singles tactics drill 1, runaround
forehands).
Figure 9.5 Runaround forehands.
Run around your backhand and use your forehand to protect against your
weak shot.
Hit approach shots deep and down the line to open up a good angle on your
next shot (figure 9.6; also, see singles strategy drill 2, approach-shot
setups).
Figure 9.6 Hit approach shots deep down the line to set up a good angle on your
next shot.
Hit approach shots down the middle to neutralize an opponent’s speed and
narrow the angle of the return (figure 9.7).
Figure 9.7 Hitting approach shots down the middle narrows the opponent’s
angle of return.
Occasionally hit approach shots crosscourt, but only for variety or if you
are in a position to put the ball away.
Hit with an open stance when you are running wide and not in a position to
follow your shot to the net.
Hit with an open stance when footwork time is limited.
When running wide to retrieve a shot, plant the outside foot when hitting
and push off back toward your home base.
When running wide with no chance to recover for the next shot, go for a
down-the-line winner or jam your opponent’s body.
Use a shorter backswing against power players (rebound).
Use a shorter backswing against a fast serve.
Slow the pace of a rally with a slice backhand.
Develop a slice backhand for the return of serve.
Use a slice backhand return that bounces at the feet of players who rush the
net.
Use a slice backhand to keep the ball low against volleyers.
Use a slice backhand occasionally on approach shots.
Singles Tactics Drill 1 Runaround Forehands (two
players)
The purpose of this drill is to practice footwork technique while moving quickly
to hit a forehand in situations in which you would normally hit a backhand.
Begin the drill in the ready position just behind the baseline at the center mark.
Have a practice partner stand at the T (where center service line intersects the
service line) to feed 10 consecutive balls slightly to your backhand side—some
short, some deep (figure 9.8). Run around your backhand and return the setup
with a forehand. Recover quickly to your original ready position. Count the
number of runaround forehands successfully hit into the opposite singles court.
Figure 9.8 Runaround forehands.
To Increase Difficulty
Count only the shots returned to the singles backcourt.
The feeder sets shots up wider to the backhand side.
The feeder sets shots up wide, then center, then wider.
Award a point only when you hit a clear winner with your forehand (your
practice partner helps count).
To Decrease Difficulty
The feeder reduces the pace of setups.
The feeder sets up shots closer (but not all the way) to the middle of the
court.
Success Check
Maintain quick feet.
Recover for your next shot.
Score Your Success
1 point for each successful runaround forehand
Your score: ___ out of 10
To Increase Difficulty
Continue playing the point after the approach shot, and score a point only
when you win with a volley.
To Decrease Difficulty
Have your partner set up shots only to the forehand or only to the backhand
side.
Have your partner toss instead of hit the setup.
Success Check
Don’t overhit.
Use a short backswing when moving forward.
To Increase Difficulty
Score a point only when you win a point.
To Decrease Difficulty
The server is allowed to serve twice on only 1 point out of the 10 played.
The server is allowed to serve twice on every other point.
Success Check
Maintain total focus.
Serve deep.
To Increase Difficulty
Serve from a position as close to the center mark as possible.
Earn a point only by pulling the receiver past the doubles sideline to return
your serve.
To Decrease Difficulty
Move three or four steps to the right of the center mark.
Earn a point every time the receiver has to move toward the singles sideline
(instead of going past the singles sideline) to make a return.
Success Check
Brush the ball with your racket strings.
Use rapid racket speed.
Volleys
Although it is possible to develop a strong singles game relying almost
exclusively on groundstrokes, complete players develop the ability to volley
from anywhere on the court. They look for openings to get into volleying
positions. They force their opponents into positions where part of the court is left
open, and then move in for the kill. Here are many ways to make volleys work to
your advantage:
Move in closer to the net when you sense that the return won’t be a lob.
Place volleys toward the open part of the court.
Use a crosscourt volley to return a shot hit down the line (figure 9.12).
Figure 9.12 Crosscourt volley off a down-the-line passing attempt.
When in doubt, volley deep to your opponent’s weaker side or down the
middle.
On low volleys go for safe but deep returns down the line or down the
middle.
On high volleys go for angled winners that bounce inside the service court.
When you move to hit a volley, try to move forward at an angle toward the
net (figure 9.14).
Figure 9.14 Cut off passing attempts by moving at an angle toward the net to hit
a volley.
To Increase Difficulty
Play the point out and count only the instances when the volleyer wins.
Play the point out when an exchange beyond three shots is accomplished,
whoever wins.
To Decrease Difficulty
Have the baseline player attempt shots only to the forehand or only to the
backhand side.
Success Check
Stay light on your feet between shots (no idle footwork).
Keep the racket head up and in front between volleys.
To Increase Difficulty
Start over every time an error is made.
Continue the sequence without stopping after five shots.
To Decrease Difficulty
Pick up the groundstroke–volley sequence from wherever the last error was
made.
Players B and C hit soft groundstrokes; player A hits bump volleys.
Success Check
Move toward the net (laterally) to cut off passing shots.
Rebound opponents’ groundstrokes.
Hit the lob occasionally just to make your opponent aware that your lob is a
threat.
Lob if your opponent is less mobile, cramping, injured, tired, or old.
Use the lob more often when your opponent has to look into the sun.
Lob high to buy time (recover) when you are out of position.
Lob low with less air time when you are trying to win a point with the shot.
Hit most defensive lobs crosscourt.
Follow good offensive lobs to the net. Stop near the service line; then make
your next move.
Lob to the backhand if you have a choice.
Lob deeper against the wind.
If you make a mistake with a lob, it’s better to make it deep rather than
short.
To Increase Difficulty
Allow your practice partner to approach the net and smash short lobs.
Have your practice partner start the drill at midcourt, dropping a ball and
driving it deep to the corner.
To Decrease Difficulty
Have your practice partner hit all 10 approach shots to the same corner.
Score a point for any lob that reaches the backcourt on either side.
Success Check
Use a quick first step.
Maintain an open racket face.
Hit a smash after the bounce if you can do so without losing your offensive
position.
When close to the net, hit smashes flat (without spin) or at an angle (figure
9.18).
When in the backcourt, use spin to move the ball away from your opponent.
Do not try a put-away smash when you are near the baseline.
Hit smashes to a corner when you are deep in your backcourt.
Change the direction of a second consecutive smash.
Figure 9.18 Smash at an angle when close to the net.
To Increase Difficulty
Play the point out, but earn a point only when you win the point with the
first smash.
Start the drill from a position three steps inside the service line.
Start the drill from a position three steps behind the service line.
To Decrease Difficulty
Play the point out after your smash and earn a point if you win the point in
any manner.
Hit a slower, easier setup for your partner, who hits a lob.
Success Check
Maintain quick feet.
Take the racket back early.
Point to the ball (that has been lobbed) with your off hand.
Score Your Success
1 point for each successful smash
Your score: ___ out of 10
Drop Shots
Use the drop shot often enough to keep your opponent honest. Let him know that
you can and will try this shot. Don’t overuse it, and consider these suggestions
regarding drop-shot tactics:
To Increase Difficulty
Both players start from the baseline and rally until an opportunity for a drop
shot develops.
To Decrease Difficulty
Both players start from opposing T positions.
Success Check
Make a quick first step to the ball.
Use a delicate touch.
Try to misdirect your opponent.
If you win the spin of the racket, choose to serve first if you have a good
serve.
If your opponent chooses to serve first, choose the side against the wind for
the first game. Then you’ll have two consecutive games with the wind at
your back.
If your opponent chooses to serve first and the wind or sun is not an issue,
choose the opposite end from where you warmed up so that the server sees
a different view.
If you are having problems adjusting to a surface, go to the net more often.
(Near the net, you can play balls as volleys rather than trying to make
groundstroke adjustments after the bounce because of the surface.)
Slow down the match, within the rules, if you are losing points rapidly.
When losing with unforced errors, check your stroke fundamentals or
change your shot selection before changing your strategy or tactics.
Hit toward target areas, not lines. Leave a margin for error.
Use the simplest shot that will win a point. Every shot doesn’t have to be
great.
In pressure situations, play the ball and the court, not your opponent.
Rely on your best shot in crucial situations.
Anticipate your opponent’s best shot in crucial situations.
Avoid risky shots on critical points (for example, a drop shot from the
baseline).
Periodically, take chances on points you can afford to lose (when you are
way ahead in a game or set).
Don’t be afraid to finish the point (see singles tactics drill 10).
To Increase Difficulty
You lose the point if you haven’t won it within four shots.
To Decrease Difficulty
You lose the point if you haven’t won it within seven shots.
Success Check
Look for an open spot.
Hit away from your opponent, not to him.
Success Summary
Playing styles are not good or bad. They simply either work for you or they
don’t. Recognize your talents and your limitations on the singles court. Then
work hard to become a better player, whatever your style. Enter your score for
each of the singles tactics drills in the following scoring summary. If you score
50 out of 100 possible points, you’re doing great. Regardless of your score, there
is room for improvement.
Scoring Summary
Singles Tactics Drills
1. Runaround forehands: _____ out of 10
2. Approach-shot setups: _____ out of 10
3. One serve only: _____ out of 10
4. Serve wide: _____ out of 10
5. Volley–pass: _____ out of 10
6. Five-shot volley combo: _____ out of 10
7. Approach–lob: _____ out of 10
8. Lob–smash: _____ out of 10
9. Counter drop shot–lob: _____ out of 10
10. Finish the point: _____ out of 10
Older players especially enjoy doubles because it’s less demanding physically
and more demanding mentally. Singles and doubles are both fun to play, but
some players prefer individual sports, whereas others like the team aspect.
Tennis gives you the opportunity to play both an individual and a team sport.
Court Positions
Court positions are tactically important both when beginning a point and while it
is being played. The most commonly used positions to begin a point are shown
in figures 10.1 and 10.2. Both diagrams will be referred to several times in step
10.
The server (S) serves from a position near a point where the singles sideline
intersects the baseline.
The server’s partner (SP) begins the point positioned 8 to 10 feet (2.4 to 3
m) from the net, inside the singles sideline.
The receiver (R) returns serves from a position approximately where the
baseline meets the singles sideline.
The receiver’s partner (RP) stands on the service line between the center
service line and the singles sideline. (However, if the receiver is having
problems returning serves, the receiver’s partner begins the point about
halfway between the service line and the baseline or all the way back near
the baseline.)
Figure 10.1 Court positions to begin a point in doubles when the server serves
from the right (deuce) court.
Figure 10.2 Court positions to begin a point in doubles when the server serves
from the left (ad) court.
Serves
Serving the ball to a specific location sets up the whole point. If you can place
your serve, you can control what happens instead of reacting to what your
opponents choose to do. Once you determine where the other players are weak
or which areas they leave open, you’ll need the skill and consistency to hit those
spots. The primary objective is to get the ball into play, but putting it in the right
places will make things easier for you and your partner. Here are some ways to
get the most from your serve:
To Increase Difficulty
Allow a point only when the first serve is in.
Allow a point only when the server’s team wins the point being played.
Allow a point only when the server is in position to hit a volley after the
return of serve.
To Decrease Difficulty
Allow the server two chances to win each point.
Success Check
Serve deep.
Use a split step before the volley.
Move closer to the service line against players with weak serves.
If the server remains on the baseline after the serve, return the ball deep and
crosscourt; then follow your shot to the net.
If the server comes to the net after the serve, return the ball crosscourt and
to the server’s feet (or lob over the server’s partner).
When you try to pass the server’s partner at the net, aim for the singles
sideline or the middle of the alley.
Test the server’s partner early in a match with a drive or a lob.
Attempt to pass the server’s partner occasionally, even if you lose the point.
Protect the middle of the court.
When your partner is forced out of position, shift to cover the middle of the
court left open.
Let the player on your team positioned to hit a forehand take most shots that
come down the middle.
Don’t rely on groundstrokes to win in doubles unless your opponents’
groundstrokes are erratic.
When in doubt and your opponents are at the net, hit low and down the
middle.
Force the action to get to the net.
To Increase Difficulty
The server’s partner may poach (when appropriate) after the serve.
To Decrease Difficulty
The point doesn’t begin until the third shot (server serves, receiver returns,
server volleys or hits a groundstroke) so that players can get into a rhythm
first.
The server stays back after serving.
Success Check
Take a short backswing to return serve.
Return deep if the server stays back; return shallow and low if the server
rushes.
To Increase Difficulty
Keep the ball in play for four shots before the point begins.
To Decrease Difficulty
Designate only one team to attack the net on short shots.
Success Check
Be aggressive.
Hit groundstrokes high and deep.
The movement to poach has to be quick, deliberate, and at an angle toward the
net (for power), not parallel to it or in a line away from it (figure 10.7). The
technique for the volley used to poach is no different from any other volley. Take
little or no backswing, make contact with the ball as early as possible, and go for
a winner. If you don’t go for a winner, you’ll put your team in a difficult court
position to win the point. If you are not a strong volleyer, don’t poach very often
—just enough to pose a threat.
Figure 10.7 Poaching.
Timing is crucial. Make your move at exactly the moment when the receiver has
committed to making a crosscourt return. Move too early and you give away the
surprise element. Move too late and you can’t catch up to the ball.
If you are the server, follow a good serve to the net. If you are receiving the
serve, chip the ball short or drive it crosscourt and deep and follow your shot to
the net. The team that controls the net usually controls the outcome of the point.
That team may not win the point, but it decides who does. However and
whenever you approach the net, keep these volleying strategies in mind:
When your partner serves wide, shift slightly toward the alley.
When your partner is serving, protect your side of the court, take weak
shots down the middle, and smash lobs hit on your side of the court unless
your partner calls for the shot.
When you poach, go for a winner.
Move diagonally toward the net for a poach instead of parallel to it.
Poach occasionally, even if you lose the point.
Poach more often when your partner is serving well.
Poach more often when your partner serves down the middle than when the
serve goes wide.
Poach less often if your partner is a good serve-and-volleyer.
Fake the poach at times.
If you try to poach but can’t get to the ball, don’t stay in the middle of the
court. Get to one side or the other so your partner will know where to go.
Stand farther from the net if your partner’s serve is weak.
Play farther from the net than usual if you are a stronger player than your
partner (to occupy more court space).
Stand farther from the net against players who lob frequently.
Play closer to the net against players who seldom lob.
Watch your opponents, not your partner, when your partner is returning a
serve and during rallies.
During rallies, watch the racket faces of your opponents.
Shift slightly with every shot to cover the open court.
When your opponents are set up for a smash, retreat quickly and take a
defensive position.
Change sides and move back to the service line when an opponent lobs over
your head.
In quick exchanges at the net, the last player to hit a shot should take the
next shot if it comes down the middle.
To Increase Difficulty
The server’s partner is not required to consistently return in a crosscourt
direction.
Serves must land within 6 feet (1.8 m) of the service line (deep). Mark the
court with chalk.
To Decrease Difficulty
Allow the server two attempts on each serve.
The receiver sets up the poacher with a head-high, medium-paced
crosscourt return.
Success Check
Poach on deep serves.
Move in a diagonal direction toward the net.
To Increase Difficulty
Earn a point only when a volley you hit wins the point.
To Decrease Difficulty
Begin the point sooner with the second or third setup shot.
Count the number of consecutive hits by both teams instead of keeping
score on points won.
Success Check
Keep your racket head up.
Move forward to finish the point.
Go for the open area on the winner.
To Increase Difficulty
The point begins after the fourth shot.
To Decrease Difficulty
Players on the groundstroke team just keep the ball in play. They cannot hit
forcing shots or go for winners.
Success Check
Return low shots with deep, down-the-middle volleys.
Cut off high shots with angled volleys.
Protect against the lob.
To Increase Difficulty
The player at the net sets up farther back to take away open court space.
To Decrease Difficulty
The player at the net starts the point as close to the net as possible, allowing
more open court space.
The receiver has the option of lobbing or returning the serve with a
crosscourt groundstroke.
Success Check
Lob low over the server’s partner.
Move forward and follow the path of the lob.
To Increase Difficulty
Hit setup lobs deeper to start the drill.
To Decrease Difficulty
Hit setup lobs shorter and lower to start the drill.
Success Check
Make a quick turn and retreat.
Avoid full-swing smashes.
Smash down the middle to create confusion.
Smash wide to open the court.
Mixed Doubles
Recreational mixed doubles has some unwritten rules: Everyone has a
good time, everyone gets into the action, and everyone comes away from
a match in good physical and emotional health.
The player with the better serve on the team should serve the first
game of each set.
Serves should be hit with the velocity and to the area in the service
court most likely to produce a winning point, regardless of the
receiver’s gender.
Shots should be directed to the weaker player unless total control of
the match is in hand. Each player should cover his or her side of the
court.
One partner should not cut in front of the other unless percentage
tennis (hitting the safest, most effective shot in a given situation)
would dictate it.
Because mixed doubles usually has the least priority in practice and
playing time, use as many shots as you can to create teamwork problems
between opposing players. Moving the ball around the court as much as
possible is a good way to manipulate the other team. Lobs are especially
effective because one player has to give way to the other, or the partners
have to change positions on the court before hitting. Drop shots are
usually not a good idea, but they work in mixed doubles to move
opponents out of position and open an area for a winning shot.
Finally, make the opposing mixed doubles players do what they don’t
want to do. If either player is shy about playing the net, make that player
come to the net by hitting short shots. If the team is very aggressive and
likes coming to the net, use the lob to keep the partners off balance. If
one partner wants to dominate, get him out of position. If the partners are
not used to playing together, hit a lot of shots down the middle.
Choosing a Partner
Whom you play with can be as important as how well you play. Chemistry,
compatibility, and complementing each other’s games make for successful, long-
lasting teams (and friendships). Consider these suggestions when you have a
choice of doubles partners:
Success Summary
The points in doubles matches begin with very structured shots: Serve to the
backhand or to the open court, return crosscourt, approach the net as soon as
possible, and force the action. After that, things can get crazy, which is why
playing doubles is so much fun. With four players, wider boundaries, and
enticing angles, expect wild, long, unpredictable, and exciting points.
Enter your scores for each of the doubles drills in the following scoring
summary. The goal is to score at least 40 out of 80 possible points.
Scoring Summary
Doubles Tactics Drills
1. Serve–rush–volley: _____ out of 10
2. Serve–crosscourt return: _____ out of 10
3. Attacking groundstrokes: _____ out of 10
4. Serve–return–poach: _____ out of 10
5. Continuous volleys: _____ out of 10
6. Two-up, two-back volleys: _____ out of 10
7. Serve–lob: _____ out of 10
8. Two-up, two-back smashes: _____ out of 10
The first hurdle is to stay focused during a match that can last two hours or
longer. Trying to concentrate on anything—reading a book, working on an
assignment at school, performing a task—for a long period of time is difficult.
Add to that challenge
The first part of step 11 addresses concentration. The second part suggests ways
to play against various players, personalities, and playing styles. The last section
tells you how to adjust to playing conditions such as fast courts, slow courts,
wind, hot weather, cold weather, and excessive noise.
Before trying to reach a higher level of concentration, be sure you want to.
Millions of players just want to go out, hit the ball, have a good time, and not
worry about directing their total focus to the game being played. After all, it’s
fun to talk with friends, be outdoors, watch others play, and relax. But if you
want to play really good tennis, you need to address concentration.
Many factors demand your attention during a match. The score in the game or
set, the weather, your physical condition, your opponent’s condition, and your
game plan are all important things to think about. But the time to do that
thinking is between points and games, not while the ball is in play.
Your actual play is the most challenging aspect of mental tennis. When the ball
is in play, you should focus on two priorities: the ball and the opponent.
The Ball
At the top of the list of things to focus on is the tennis ball. “Keep your eye on
the ball” should be more than a platitude. If you are serving, try to watch the ball
until it leaves your racket strings. If you are receiving the serve, follow the ball
with your eyes from the toss, to the point of contact, across the net, and toward
your racket. Don’t worry about whether the serve is in or out until after you have
swung at the ball. There is no penalty for calling a shot out after you hit it. Also
concentrate on the ball throughout the point. Watch it when your opponent is
preparing to hit and when you are hitting.
Your Opponent
As the ball leaves your racket, you will have a second or two to watch where
your opponent is on the court and how she is going to hit the next shot. Pay
special attention to the other player’s racket face before she strikes the ball. You
can be faked out of position if you look at anything other than the racket and the
ball. Immediately after the ball is hit to you, while focusing on it, also be aware
of where your opponent is moving on the court.
Your attention will have to move rapidly back and forth between these two
priorities (opponent and ball). Be observant enough to know whether the other
player is moving toward the net, returning to the center of the baseline, or
moving to one side of the court. Within a split-second, your attention must again
return to the ball, but without tunnel vision so that your scope of vision takes in a
lot of information.
You’ll have an advantage over your opponent if you move into the proper
position to execute a stroke automatically rather than having to think about it.
Good free-throw shooters in basketball don’t think about it; they just shoot the
ball. Good hitters in baseball “see the ball and hit the ball.” In tennis, you have
to prepare for a stroke at the same time you are trying to concentrate on the ball,
and you cannot think about both simultaneously. If your strokes have been
practiced to the point of thoughtless execution, you can devote full attention to
the ball and your opponent.
“How much do you want to play for?” asked George, the gambler.
“One hundred dollars a set, two out of three sets,” replied Richard, the
tournament player.
“No, I won’t do that,” countered George, “but I’ll play you for a
thousand dollars a set.”
The skilled player was shaken, but he agreed. He lost in straight sets—6-
1, 6-2—and the gambler took Richard’s $2,000 and went home.
What happened? The better player played not to lose instead of playing
to win. It happens in individual and team sports. For a variety of reasons,
most of which have nothing to do with money, athletes in positions to
win become conservative, tentative, scared, negative, or all of the above.
You can play to win instead of playing not to lose. This step shows you
how.
Focus on Your Game
Try to isolate yourself from the rest of the world for the short period of time you
are on the court. Forget for a while that many other things in your life are more
important. If you can (and want to), create a temporary attitude in which the next
point, game, or set is more important than your outside stressors. If you set that
attitude of pure focus as a goal, any progress toward it should improve your
game by sharpening your concentration. Following are seven specific ways to
focus or refocus on your tennis game.
Identify Distractions
Awareness of potential problems can help you develop a strategy to cope with
them. Make a list. Noise, weather, court surface, and opponents’ behaviors or
styles are things you cannot control, but you can find a way to overcome them.
Don’t Overreact
Rather than overreacting to a problem, find a solution that involves only one or
two elements. Come up with some kind of positive cue or change that is simple
enough to help you regain focus.
Regroup
When things are going badly, slow down. Calm down. Center yourself. Close
your eyes. Take a deep breath. Go pick up the third ball or debris on the court.
Use the full 25 seconds between points and the 90 seconds during changeovers.
You will have ups and downs during most matches. Even when you are winning,
expect the other player to make a run at you sooner or later. If you are winning,
always play as if you are losing and fighting to regain the lead. If you are losing,
play the ball and the open court, not the opponent. Check your fundamentals
before changing your mental approach. Maintain focus regardless of what
happens across the net. The following three drills may help you achieve that
goal.
To Increase Difficulty
Increase the length of silent practice to 15 minutes.
Play an entire set without talking, except to announce the score.
Wear earplugs for an entire practice match.
To Decrease Difficulty
Decrease the length of silent practice to 5 minutes.
Success Check
Do not talk.
See the ball; then hit the ball.
Variation
Instead of playing 10 points, play three consecutive tiebreakers. Try to stay in
the tiebreaker at least 2 more points (extend the tiebreaker). Also, attempt to put
60 percent of your first serves in play while returning 70 percent of your
opponent’s first serves. To increase difficulty, start each tiebreaker down 1 point
or even 2 points. To decrease difficulty, start each tiebreaker up 1 point or even 2
points. Starting with 1 free score-your-success point, earn 3 points for each
tiebreaker won.
To Increase Difficulty
Start each game down 30-40.
Each player has just one serve rather than a first and second serve
opportunity to get the ball in.
To Decrease Difficulty
Start each game at 0-15 or 15-15.
Success Check
Make each game last at least 4 more points.
Get first serves in play.
Score Your Success
1 point for each game won
Your score: ___ out of 10
To Increase Difficulty
Increase the number of goals.
Increase serve and return percentages.
Increase the number of consecutive points won.
To Decrease Difficulty
Set goals for one game at a time.
Success Check
Set realistic goals.
Focus on one goal at a time.
To decreases difficulty, players keep score only for the games they are
playing—not for a set or match.
Self-confidence is a person’s (or team’s) belief that she (or they) can perform
difficult tasks in certain conditions. Overconfidence develops when the person or
team misjudges those conditions to a fault. Players tend to pay less attention to
detail, ignore critical information, and lack focus before and during a match. All
of these factors lead to flaws in judgment that set the stage for losing to an
underdog.
Underestimating an Opponent
Overconfidence surfaces in at least two ways, and neither of them is very pretty.
The first is to look past a supposedly lesser opponent. An unfocused or a less-
than-serious approach to practice is a recipe for disaster, regardless of who the
next opponent might be. Preparing for supposedly weaker opponents can be
more difficult than getting ready for top-flight competition. It is a perfectly
natural response to take for granted a win over players who are smaller, slower,
weaker, older, less skilled, or who have a poor record. But it is also possible to
lose to a weaker player or team. Underestimation helps weaker players stay in
the game.
The athlete or team who underestimates an opponent and gets behind in a contest
may have a very difficult time coming back. A lesser competitor or team can be
completely outplayed and yet keep the match close, getting lucky or making a
great shot near the end to win.
In tennis and other sports, there comes a time during the competition when it
does not matter who is better on paper. During the last two minutes of a close
basketball game, during a sudden-death playoff in golf, or in the last set of a
close tennis match, it really doesn’t matter who is supposed to be better. Players
are more equal at this moment, and it comes down to who makes the play, who
gets a break, who is in better condition, or who wants to win the most.
The solution is to prepare, play in the moment, and accept responsibility for your
actions. Deal with the situation in front of you. Don’t recall the past or believe
old news articles about you. Past performance does not guarantee future results.
Adjusting to Opponents
All opponents are not created equal. Some will try to hit the ball hard right at
you; others will try to get the ball past you. Some you will enjoy playing against;
others you will not. Some are better than you; others are not yet at your skill
level. Whatever the case, adjustments can be made to take advantage of your
own strengths and of your opponent’s weaknesses.
Big Hitters
There are two kinds of big hitters. The first kind hits heavy serves, powerful
groundstrokes, put-away volleys, and strong overhead smashes. They like to
serve, rush the net, and hit forceful groundstrokes. Their asset is power. Their
weaknesses might be a lack of patience, consistency, and sometimes mobility. It
is difficult to hit consistently powerful shots for an entire match. Watch for these
weaknesses, and be ready to take advantage of them. Most important, don’t be
intimidated! These big hitters can be beaten, even if they look good while they
are losing. Try these tactics against big hitters who like to rush the net:
The second type of big hitter uses power strokes from the baseline, but is not
necessarily that good or interested in playing at the net. Against this kind of
player, try one or more of these tactics:
To Increase Difficulty
Allow your opponent to use the doubles alleys.
To Decrease Difficulty
Score a point just for returning the first shot.
Success Check
Anticipate the direction of the shot.
Use a quick first step to get to the ball.
Retrievers (Pushers)
It can be very frustrating to play retrievers—players who get everything back but
with little pace. They are certainly not intimidating players, and they probably
won’t impress you with their strokes. But if you watch these counterpunchers
warm up or play against someone else, it is easy to become overconfident.
The problem is that the ball seems to keep coming back no matter how well you
play. Players wear themselves out against pushers, spending too much energy
and taking too many chances at inopportune times. These retriever-type players
know their capabilities, and they play within their limitations. In practice, try the
Plan a Point drill. Here are some ideas on how to play these human backboards:
To Increase Difficulty
Allow your partner to serve every game.
Score a point only if you win the game.
To Decrease Difficulty
You serve every game.
Plan only the first two shots of a point.
Success Check
Focus on your first shot of the exchange.
Use a variety of plans.
Left-Handed Players
Left-handed players have an advantage in tennis. The percentage of successful
left-handed players seems to be disproportionately high. No one is used to
playing left-handers, and few people enjoy the experience. Crucial shots seem to
go to the left-handed player’s forehand. It can take a whole set or match to figure
out their serves. If it makes you feel better, left-handed players also don’t like to
play against left-handed players. Try these tactics to overcome the left-hander’s
natural advantages:
Superior Opponents
Sooner or later, every tennis player has to compete against someone with
superior talent. Fortunately, going against someone who is physically superior
doesn’t have to result in an automatic loss.
Once a match begins, try not to worry about how good your opponent is. You are
stuck with each other, so go ahead and play your style of tennis. If you fear that
every shot by your opponent will be a winner, you will probably play below your
capability. As the match progresses, variables change. Opponents fatigue and
balls bounce slower, both of which allow more time for you to get back in the
match. Try to relax a little and play each point rather than worrying about the
outcome. You may play even better than you normally do. Superior players
frequently bring out the best in inferior opponents.
Your opponent is not likely to hit a shot that you haven’t seen before. In fact, at
some point you have probably returned every type of shot she has to offer. All
the other player can do is hit a tennis ball. You might see some shots more often
or in different situations, but there aren’t that many surprises out there. Try to
win points. If you can win a few points, you can win a game. If you can win a
few games, you can win a set, and possibly the match.
Following are some specific ways to improve your chances against a player who,
at least on paper, appears to be better than you.
Observe
Even elite athletes have weaknesses. Lesser athletes have to look for the few
deficiencies that great athletes possess. By observing, making mental notes, or
just asking questions, you can accrue points, games, and matches by exploiting
minor weaknesses. Maybe it’s a weak second serve or perhaps a preference to
stay in the backcourt. Perhaps it’s a lack of concentration because the focus is on
something other than the match.
Work
Physical prowess comes easily to experienced athletes. This doesn’t mean that
the rest of us can’t master sport skills; it just might take longer to reach the same
level. Some children learn to read quickly; others require more time and effort.
But the result is that both groups can read well. If you can’t match your
opponent’s physical skills, you may be able to make up the deficit by outworking
him during practice sessions. Go into the match with the attitude that it will take
more than talent to beat you.
Anticipate
Athletes who are a step slower than elite athletes can make up some of the
difference in reaction time and speed by anticipating the return. A tennis player
starts moving to either the forehand or backhand side in anticipation of where
the next shot will be hit. Anticipation is a great equalizer, although it’s difficult
to quickly acquire the ability and know what is about to happen. This skill takes
intelligence, experience, and the physical ability to act on what you have
observed. As with every other tennis skill, it comes with time. You have to
become a mental statistician.
Control
The worst mistake an underdog can make is trying to play the type of game
preferred by the superior player. You can’t beat a baseliner by outlasting her on
groundstrokes. Shorten points by getting to the net or making her get to the net.
Play within your physical limits. One hundred percent of your limited ability
may be enough to beat the star who plays at 80 percent perfection.
Survive
Whether it is by skill, guile, luck, or perseverance, your goal is to survive and
stay close to the talent-heavy favorite as long as possible. If the score is close
near the end of the match, it doesn’t matter who has more talent. The person who
wins is often the one who makes a big shot, avoids a mental error, is in better
physical condition, or just gets lucky. In these situations, physical talent is not a
prerequisite; mental strength might be.
Endure
Superior athletic talent does not necessarily carry over from one age group to the
next. The person who was physically superior at age 20 may not be the same
athlete at ages 30, 40, or 50. Older athletes, in some cases, really are better. The
less-than-elite athlete who trains and plays long enough usually emerges as the
winner later in life.
When all of the elements needed to be successful in sports are equal, superior
talent will win. But things are seldom equal. Sometimes the less-talented tennis
player can find ways to win by understanding the little things that super-talented
athletes often neglect.
To Increase Difficulty
Allow your opponent to serve every game.
To Decrease Difficulty
Choose to serve or receive serve each game, depending on your strengths.
Success Check
Return every first serve (get in the point).
Focus on each point, not the game.
Weaker Opponents
Maintain focus even if you are playing someone you should easily beat. Be nice,
but try just as hard to win every point as you would against someone who is your
equal or better. If you can win 6-0, do it. Never throw points or games in a match
because you feel sorry for the person on the other side of the net. Save your
compassion for social tennis. When you are comfortably ahead, work on weak
areas of your game, but not at the risk of losing momentum. If an opponent
cannot challenge your tennis skills, make the match a challenge to your
concentration. Some of the suggestions included in The Overconfidence Problem
earlier in this chapter apply to playing against weaker opponents. The handicap
scoring drill will help maintain your competitive edge.
Variation
Play 10 games (or a set) in which the weaker player is allowed to take three
Mulligans. At any point in a set, that player can claim a point without having to
play it.
To Increase Difficulty
The person losing the set gets a choice of serving or receiving every game.
To Decrease Difficulty
The person winning the set never starts a game behind by more than 2
points.
Success Check
Play aggressively when down in the score.
Focus on each point, regardless of the score.
Jerks
Some players deliberately try to distract you or interrupt your thinking with an
assortment of gamesmanship or unsporting behaviors. Some of the more popular
methods are illegally stalling, talking to you or to spectators, arguing, being
overly dramatic, and making a bad call just to upset you.
You can handle these situations two ways without totally losing concentration.
The first is to decide that nothing an opponent can do will bother you. If you
expect trouble from an opponent or even if you get it unexpectedly, make a
conscious decision that you will retain your poise and concentration regardless
of what happens. Doing so is difficult, and it becomes even more difficult if you
are losing. Then, even minor irritations become magnified. It is a lot easier to
concentrate when you are winning than when you are losing. Be a good actor.
If peaceful coexistence is not on the agenda, you might as well confront the
person and try to solve the problem before the match continues. Don’t put up
with distractions if worrying about them is going to interfere with your game. If
you are thinking about the distractions, you are not thinking about your tennis.
Stop the match, call your opponent to the net, and calmly explain what is
bothering you. If you don’t get any cooperation, ask for an umpire or get a ruling
from the tournament referee, if there is one. If the match is merely a social one,
do a better job of selecting your opponent next time. Playing this kind of person
is not worth the hassle.
To Increase Difficulty
Allow your opponent two free cheats per game.
To Decease Difficulty
Allow both players one free cheat per set.
Do not allow a free cheat on a game point.
Success Check
Show no reaction to the bad call.
Maintain focus.
Adjusting to Conditions
Every opponent is unique, and so is almost every environment in which you
play. The type of court, weather conditions, the mood of a crowd, and various
distractions will all affect your game and possibly the outcome of the match. The
tips in this section will help you adjust to a variety of court speeds, wind
conditions, extreme temperatures, and noise, so that every game you play will be
a more enjoyable experience.
Court Speed
The casual tennis fan may not know it, but court speed—how the surface of a
court affects the bounce of the ball and its velocity after the bounce—determines
the outcome of many tennis matches. Many of the great clay-court (slow-
surface) players of the world do very poorly on slick, fast courts. And some great
fast-court players never win a major title on clay courts. Good tennis players can
adjust to any kind of surface, but it takes time. Following are some ways to
adjust your game to both fast and slow courts.
Fast Courts
Playing on a fast, slick court is particularly difficult because the ball skids and
stays low after the bounce. The entire pace of the game is faster. Shots seem to
be hit harder, rallies are shorter, and less time is available to get into the rhythm
of your strokes in the match. If you have to make an adjustment, try to schedule
some practice time on the court before match day. Consider these fast-court
tactics:
Turn your shoulders quickly, get the racket back early, and start your swing
sooner.
Rely less on full-body rotation to prepare for groundstrokes.
Use the open stance as much as needed on groundstrokes.
Bend your knees and stay low to hit groundstrokes.
Rely less on topspin and more on flat or slice groundstrokes.
Play deeper than usual, especially on the serve return.
Make returning first serves a priority.
Block fast serves instead of swinging at them.
Return serves low and at the feet of a net-rushing server.
Apply less spin on serves to take advantage of the power boosts you’ll get
on fast surfaces.
Don’t overhit setups. Let the fast court provide extra pace.
Attack all short balls without overhitting, and hit them behind your
opponent.
Go to the net on medium-deep shots that you would not normally follow.
Expect your opponent to be more aggressive than on a slow court.
Expect short rallies.
Slow Courts
Adjusting to a slow court is easier than adjusting to a fast court. On slow, rough
courts, the ball slows down and bounces higher than it does on fast courts.
Instead of having less time to prepare for shots, you will have more than enough
time on a slow court. You won’t be able to put shots away as easily, and you may
become impatient because the points last longer. Retrievers love these courts,
and power players detest them. Everyone can win a few more points by trying
these slow-court tactics:
If you are comfortable with them, use Western and semi-Western grips on
high-bouncing groundstrokes.
Use a bigger backswing to generate power.
Hit with topspin to create high bounces.
Rely more on serve placement and spin than on power.
Be selective about when to advance to the net. Your opponent will have
more time to hit a shot.
Do not underestimate the retriever on a slow court.
Improve your physical stamina.
Be more deliberate than on fast courts.
Be patient.
Expect long rallies.
Wind
There are two ways to deal with the problem of playing in windy conditions. The
first is to dread the whole experience, complain about conditions, and blame
poor play or losses on windy conditions. The other approach is to try to use the
wind to your advantage. When the wind is in your face, it can keep shots in the
court that would normally go out. When the wind is at your back, it can add pace
to the average or weak shot, and it can cause more trouble for your opponent
than for you. The trick is to become so involved in the match that you don’t
worry about the wind. These strategies will help you deal with windy conditions:
Choose to warm up and play against the wind in the first game of a match.
(You’ll change ends after that first game, and then you’ll have two
consecutive games with the advantage of the wind at your back.)
Toss the ball lower on the serve.
Lob less, especially when playing against the wind.
Set up closer to the net when the wind is against you.
Hit more aggressively when the wind is against you.
When the wind is with you, let it help provide some of the power on your
strokes, but keep them low.
Extreme Temperatures
It would be nice to play all matches in weather that is 68 °F (20 °C), with 50
percent humidity, but that rarely happens. Serious players have to prepare for
competition in an extreme climate as if it were an added opponent. They
acclimate themselves to the temperature as much as possible by wearing the
proper clothing, consuming the right foods and fluids, and pacing themselves to
endure difficult situations. The ones who are successful turn the obstacles of
extremely hot and cold weather into assets.
Heat
Don’t ignore the problems hot weather can create. Players who try to prove how
tough they are run the risks of cramping, dehydration, fatigue, and not being able
to hold onto a sweaty grip during long points. When playing in extremely hot
weather, consider these key points:
Don’t wear yourself out trying to hit hard serves, especially on slow courts.
Make your opponent move around the court—side to side; up and back.
Conserve energy between points.
Take the full 90 seconds on changeovers.
Keep your racket grip dry with towels, wristbands, and drying agents.
Alternate rackets often enough to keep the grip dry.
Dress comfortably and coolly with loose-fitting tops.
Wear light-colored or air-vented apparel that reflects rather than absorbs the
heat.
Drink cool water or sport drinks before, during, and after a match.
Use the shade on the court or at courtside during changeovers.
Keep ice or an ice pack at courtside and use it on your neck, under your
arms, and on the backs of your knees.
Wear an air-vented hat.
Use water-based sunscreen and reapply it often.
Cold
Playing in cold weather is not as bad as it might seem. The body has a
remarkable capacity to warm up quickly. Once you get into the flow of a match
or practice session, the cold temperature is not really a serious factor. Cold
weather combined with strong winds is another story. Here are some suggestions
to help you adjust to cold-weather conditions:
Dress in layers and shed or add clothes as the exercise or weather intensity
increases.
Take as much time as allowed to warm up and get used to the cold weather.
Don’t take the full 90 seconds on changeovers unless you need it.
Use a cut-out sock or glove on your dominant hand to keep it warm.
Use heat packs designed to keep your hands warm.
Wear a hat or cap to prevent heat loss.
Drink fluids (warm, if desired) to stay hydrated.
Noise
Noise is a problem only if you are not used to it. If people are making enough
noise to warrant a complaint, either tolerate it or ask them to be quiet. If the
noise is coming from traffic, from construction work being done near the courts,
or from passersby, learn to live with the noise or choose a quieter place to play, if
possible.
Actually, once you learn to play with a lot of noise, your concentration should
improve. If you can concentrate in noisy areas, you should be able to concentrate
even better in quiet surroundings. Players who learn to play on noisy public
courts probably have an advantage over club players used to quieter
surroundings. Dealing with distractions, whether it’s the other player or playing
conditions, is a challenge of concentration, not tennis skills.
Success Summary
Skills for this step are more mental than physical, and simulating game situations
is not easy. The following scoring summary lists the drills that tested your ability
to manage difficult situations. Enter your score for each drill and total your
points. A score of 40 or more points out of 80 is a good one.
Becoming a successful tennis player involves a lot more than just hitting the ball
over the net. Playing against different players in all types of situations makes the
sport even more fun and challenging. A variety of distractions can level the
playing field by allowing players with certain strengths to take advantage of
them. Variety also makes it possible for weaker players to devise game plans that
make them more competitive against superior opponents. When you reach a
point in your tennis life at which you no longer worry about stroke technique and
are able to focus instead on more sophisticated elements of the game, you know
you’re making progress.
Scoring Summary
Special Situation Drills
Concentration Drills
1. Silent practice: _____ out of 10
2. Deuce games: _____ out of 10
3. Five goals: _____ out of 10
The title of this book is Tennis: Steps to Success. The word steps is there for a
reason. The idea is to build one stroke on top of another until you have a
complete game—or at least a game as complete as it can be while under
construction. Don’t wait for perfection. The greatest players in the world are not
perfect. They wrestle with the same problems that you will encounter on
groundstrokes, serves, net play, and distractions in the mental game. Along the
way, you can add the extras of specialty shots, tactics, strategy, and how to
handle all of the outside elements that go with the sport of tennis. With a little
talent, a lot of effort, and some luck, you might be able to take your steps to
success a little faster than others. Whether you go fast or slow, enjoy the journey.
Preventing Tennis Injuries
Warming up for a tennis lesson, class, or match is important not only for
preventing injuries but also for improving performance. Cooling down properly
and safely gets your body back to normal and may help prepare you for the next
time you play. In between, tennis players can sustain injuries. In this section,
you’ll read about current guidelines for warming up and cooling down as well as
common tennis injuries, their treatment, and their prevention.
Warming Up
Regardless of the sport, exercise physiologists agree that the first stage of
warming up before play should involve an activity that increases the heart rate
and blood circulation, raises the body’s core temperature, and results in a light
sweat. The first phase varies from person to person. Easing joint stiffness with a
warm shower before going to the courts works for some. Warm, moist towels or
wraps and warm-up apparel (a jacket or windbreaker) increase body
temperature. But the most practical first-stage warm-up method without extra
equipment is light jogging.
Jog around the courts or combine jogging toward the net, sidestepping away
from the net, and shuffle-stepping (one foot does not cross in front of the other)
to move laterally across the court while facing the net. Figure 1 shows an
example of a warm-up jog routine.
Figure 1 Jog the lines.
Perhaps the most dramatic change in warm-ups in recent years involves the
concept of stretching. The second phase of a warm-up in the past included static
stretching—upper-or lower-body stretches that are held for 20 to 30 seconds and
then repeated several times. Static stretches are no longer recommended because
the evidence shows that sustained stretching can cause muscles to become less
explosive and diminish athletic performance. Save static stretches for the cool-
down after a match or practice session.
Foam rollers are used to loosen muscle tissue and literally to work the knots out.
They are inexpensive and an effective replacement for static stretching as the
second phase of a warm-up. The person moves upper-or lower-body muscle
groups forward and backward against the roller, using the weight of the body to
create pressure. Think of it as self-massage, or the medical term, myofascial
release. However, foam rollers are not practical for use on a tennis court surface,
and most tennis players simply won’t use them unless they do so at home or in a
locker room.
The third warm-up phase is ballistic stretching. The term ballistic refers to using
the motions you’ll use while playing tennis, but beginning slowly, with gradual
increases until you are moving and swinging as you would in a match.
Tennis players like phase 3 because that’s what they’ve been doing as a warm-up
(minus the jogging) since the sport was invented. A few hundred years later,
scientists have discovered that hitting forehands, backhands, volleys, lobs,
smashes, and serves is a good way to warm up for a tennis match.
If your practice partner is willing to cooperate, start just behind the service line
in the middle of the court and exchange soft, short groundstrokes. Next, move to
the baseline and hit controlled forehands and backhands. Alternate roles with
your partner to practice down-the-line and crosscourt groundstrokes. Then take
turns while one player volleys and the other hits groundstrokes. Finally, set up
your practice partner so that she can hit a few controlled smashes from your
lobs; then reverse roles again while you hit the smashes. Before a match begins,
hit practice serves from the deuce and ad courts.
Cooling Down
After a match or practice session, don’t just finish the last point, walk off the
court, and get in a car to go home. Take a few minutes to cool down. It reduces
the risk of blood pooling in your legs, avoids the risk of a sudden drop in blood
pressure, and allows your pulse rate to begin returning to normal in a controlled
manner. One suggestion is to cool down until your pulse rate drops below 100
beats per minute. Your level of fitness is improving if your recovery time is
declining.
If you’ve been hitting during a practice session, take a few minutes to pick up
the balls, or walk around the perimeter of the doubles court for five minutes. Put
a warm-up suit on (or at least a jacket) for a few minutes, even if the weather is
hot. Try to minimize abrupt changes in your body temperature.
Next, take a few minutes to go through some static stretches—the same kind you
used in the past before matches. There is evidence that static stretching increases
subsequent range of motion. Include stretches for the upper body, trunk, and
legs.
Injuries
Tennis elbow gets most of the publicity, but several less serious, more common
injuries occur among tennis players of all ages and abilities. Blisters, cramps,
shin splints, sprains, and strains are problems all players encounter sooner or
later (see table 1). Tennis injuries are not usually emergencies, and players who
are well informed can take care of them without medical assistance.
Blisters
For tennis players, the two most likely places for blisters to develop are the
racket hand (hand and racket friction) and the feet (shoe, sock, and foot friction).
Shoes that don’t fit properly, differences in court surfaces, heat, sweating, and an
increased level of activity are all factors that could lead to the formation of
blisters.
Part of the problem is that tennis players seldom stop playing when blisters
begin to form, which results in a more severe problem. The early warning signs
are red hot spots in the area affected and a stinging or burning sensation.
Eventually, the skin area becomes white and swells with fluid, but it may or may
not break.
Most blisters heal by themselves when the source of the friction is removed. If
the top layer of skin stays intact, a doughnut-like pad placed over the top
protects the skin and relieves the discomfort. The fluid can be drained if you
have access to a sterile needle, but the overlying skin should be left as a
protective dressing. If the skin has already been removed, treat the blistered area
as you would an abrasion. Clean and rinse it with mild, soapy water or an
antiseptic; then bandage it. Ask about over-the-counter medicated blister
dressings at a pharmacy.
The best way to prevent a blister is to be aware of vulnerable areas and hot spots,
and to take action to keep them from developing into blisters. Wearing a glove
might protect the hand. Choosing shoes and socks that don’t irritate the skin
might save the feet. Shop for socks that maintain their cushioning properties and
wick moisture away from the skin. Apply creams to areas subject to chafing.
Muscle Cramps
Not enough is known about why cramps—those sudden, involuntary, and painful
muscle contractions—occur, and the reasons might vary from person to person.
However, cramps are common among tennis players. Contributing factors appear
to be hot and humid weather, intense exercise, sweating, fatigue, dehydration,
and possible deficiencies in minerals such as calcium, sodium, potassium, and
magnesium. If any of these minerals are depleted, muscles may not contract
properly.
The perfect storm for a cramp would be a tennis player competing in a late
spring or summer tournament (perhaps the first of the season) in a long, difficult
match with tired muscles. By the time all of those factors come together, it may
be too late to prevent a cramp.
There is good news. Most cramps are not long-term, recurring conditions, and
most of them subside within a few minutes, even though it may seem longer.
Shin Splints
Any athlete who pounds a hard surface repeatedly or puts unusual, added stress
on the bones, muscles, and joints of the lower legs is vulnerable to shin splints.
That puts beginners, advanced beginners, and intermediate tennis players in a
high-risk group.
The condition is medically termed medial tibial stress syndrome, or tibial pain
syndrome, but by any name, it refers to pain in the front or inner part of the
lower leg. The pain is caused by irritation and inflammation. In addition to
playing or practicing on hard, unfamiliar surfaces, shin splints can be caused by
wearing old shoes that don’t absorb shock; a sudden increase in training
frequency, duration, or intensity; flat feet; or a previous history of shin splints.
Symptoms of shin splints come on gradually. They include lower-leg pain, pain
when the toes or foot are bent downward, mild swelling in some cases, and
tenderness along the front or inner part of the lower leg. In the early stages of
shin splints, the pain is likely to subside when the person is not playing or
practicing. Later, the pain is continuous.
Although the pain may be severe enough to keep you off the courts for a while,
shin splints may respond to ice applications, rest, over-the-counter pain
medications, compression sleeves, arch supports (if flat feet are the problem), or
changing to shoes that provide more support and cushioning.
Sprains
A sprain occurs when a joint has been forced beyond its normal range of motion.
One or more of the ligaments that hold the bones of that joint together have been
overstretched, partially torn, or ruptured.
Ankle sprains are among the most common tennis injuries. One of the three
ligaments that wraps around the outside of the ankle (the anterior talofibular
ligament) is especially vulnerable and frequently injured. Up to 80 percent of all
ankle sprains occur when the foot rolls toward the outside of the ankle.
Basketball players have the highest incidence of ankle sprains. Sprains are also
among the most common injuries sustained by tennis players.
Ankle sprains are classified according to the degree of tissue damage. Grade 1
sprains cause mild pain, localized swelling, and tenderness, but the ankle
remains stable and is not bruised. The person can walk, but may not be able to
jump or jog. The ligament has been overstretched but not torn, and slight,
sometimes reparable damage to the ligament fibers has occurred.
Athletes who suffer a grade 2 ankle sprain may hear a popping or tearing sound
when the ankle rolls to the side. There is significant bruising and internal
bleeding, which might be observed three to four days after the injury.
Tenderness, swelling, limited range of motion, and difficulty walking are other
symptoms. The ligament has been partially torn, and the ankle is unstable.
In grade 3 sprains, the pain is extreme. Along with swelling and tenderness,
there is major instability, great difficulty in walking, and a feeling that the ankle
may give way. The ligament has been considerably or completely torn.
Depending on the severity of the sprain, initial treatment should include rest (24
to 48 hours), ice (15 to 20 minutes three or four times a day, with two hours
between cold packs for one to three days), compression (with an elastic
bandage), protection (with an air brace or ankle support), and elevation
(propping up the leg and ankle level with the heart two to three hours a day).
Over-the-counter pain relievers reduce pain; aspirin and ibuprofen reduce pain
and address inflammation.
Develop strength and flexibility in the structures that make up the ankle joint.
Flexibility of the Achilles tendon is especially important to withstand the forces
placed on the ankle joint in tennis training and competition. Court shoes that
provide lateral support will also help.
Strains
Strains—stretched or torn muscles or tendons—are informally called pulled
muscles. Whereas sprains are more common in the ankles and knees of tennis
players, strains can occur all over the body—in the fingers, hand, or wrist; the
elbow, arm, or shoulder; the neck; the abdominal area; the back; the hip; the
quads or hamstrings; the knee; or the ankle, foot, or toes—just about any area
that houses a muscle–tendon unit. Muscles that lack flexibility or strength are
especially vulnerable to strains.
Like sprains, strains are classified according to the amount of damage. Grade 1
strains indicate a stretched muscle–tendon unit. In grade 2, a partial tear has
occurred, and in grade 3, the unit is completely torn. Strains of the shoulder
girdle can be a contributing factor to shoulder tendinitis.
If you suffer a strain, follow the same self-treatment guidelines as with sprains:
protection, rest (for at least a day), ice, compression (but not too tight), and
elevation. Over-the-counter medications ease the discomfort. If there is
significant swelling, pain, fever, bleeding, or an inability to move or walk, seek
immediate medical attention.
Once you begin hitting or playing again following a strain, take it easy.
Gradually work back into playing condition. Heat applications before physical
activity (a warm shower or warm, moist compresses) will increase circulation
and loosen muscle tissues. Ice (packs, but not in direct contact with the skin)
afterward will control swelling and reduce pain.
Preventing strained, or pulled, muscles requires strong and flexible muscles and
a well-executed warm-up before exercising or playing tennis.
Tennis Elbow
Tennis elbow, medically termed epicondylitis, results from repetitive stress,
overuse, and muscle strain injury that affect the forearm muscles and tendons
near the inside or outside of the elbow. It has always been one of the most
common and difficult-to-heal sport injuries. Tennis elbow affects as many as half
of all frequent tennis players, but it can be just as debilitating to golfers, baseball
players, volleyball players, and others who may never play tennis. Anyone who
regularly lifts, reaches, pushes, or pulls can sustain the injury. Also, a sudden
impact, such as hitting the elbow against the corner of a countertop, can initiate a
long-term problem.
The first step in treatment is to avoid the activity that causes the pain. Don’t play
tennis for a week or longer. Use ice applications and massage the area with ice
for the first two or three days after symptoms appear. After 72 hours, moist heat
may help, as will pain medications such as aspirin or ibuprofen taken according
to directions. In the long term, elbow braces or wraps can redirect pressure away
from the inflamed elbow.
The USTA is the nonprofit governing body of tennis in the United States. Its
mission is to promote and develop the growth of tennis. The USTA has 17
sections, some of which are divided into state associations. USTA income is
derived from membership fees, product sales, and sponsorship of the U.S. Open,
played each year at the USTA Billie Jean King National Tennis Center in New
York. USTA members can play in tournaments and leagues, receive publications,
get professional instruction, and obtain other benefits of belonging to an
organization with hundreds of thousands of members.
USTA Sections
USTA Caribbean: www.caribbean.usta.com
USTA Eastern: www.eastern.usta.com
USTA Florida: www.florida.usta.com
USTA Hawaii: www.hawaii.usta.com
USTA Intermountain: www.intermountain.usta.com
USTA MidAtlantic: www.midatlantic.usta.com
USTA Middle States: www.middlestates.usta.com
USTA Midwest: www.midwest.usta.com
USTA Missouri Valley: www.missourivalley.usta.com
USTA New England: www.newengland.usta.com
USTA Northern: www.northern.usta.com
USTA Northern California: www.norcal.usta.com
USTA Pacific Northwest: www.pnw.usta.com
USTA Southern: www.southern.usta.com
USTA Southern California: www.scta.usta.com
USTA Southwest: www.southwest.usta.com
USTA Texas: www.texas.usta.com
National Tennis Organizations
Australia: www.tennis.com.au
Canada: www.tenniscanada.com
China: www.tennis.org.cn
Colombia: www.fedecoltenis.com
France: www.fft.fr
Germany: www.dtb-tennis.de
Great Britain: www.lta.org.uk
India: www.aitatennis.com
Ireland: www.tennisireland.ie
Israel: www.ita.one.co.il
Italy: www.federtennis.it
Mexico: www.fmt.org.mx.
Netherlands: www.knltb.nl
New Zealand: www.tennisnz.com
Russia: www.tennis-russia.ru
Spain: www.rfet.es
South Africa: www.tennissa.co.za
Jim Brown, PhD, has taught, coached, played, and written about tennis for over
40 years. He is the executive editor of the Steadman Philippon Research Institute
News and a regular contributor to health publications of the Cleveland Clinic,
Duke School of Medicine, and the David Geffen School of Medicine at UCLA.
He has served as the editor of Tennis Industry magazine, Tennis Clinic, Georgia
Tech Sports Medicine & Performance Newsletter, and Sports Performance
Journal.
Dr. Brown has written, coauthored, or edited 14 books and hundreds of articles
on sports, sports medicine, health, and education. He has been published
extensively online, having written columns for CBS Sportsline.com, USTA-
Southern Section, CorePerformance.com, and WebMD. His work has appeared
in such notable printed publications as Sports Illustrated for Women, Washington
Post, Better Homes and Gardens, Raising Teens, and New York Post.
During Dr. Brown’s teaching career, he served as a clinician for the United
States Tennis Association; the American Alliance for Health, Physical
Education, Recreation and Dance; and the President’s Council on Physical
Fitness and Sports.
She currently holds numerous positions in the United States Tennis Association.
Most recently, she served as the head coach for the PRCC men’s and women’s
tennis team, where she was named the Region 23 Coach of the Year in 2000.