Mastering

BERNINA /bernette Sewing Machines

® ®
Your
BERNINA®

Mastering Your
BERNINA®/bernette®
Sewing Machine

Owner’s Workbook

MASTERING YOUR BERNINA® /bernette® SEWING MACHINE 1/06 1

©2006 BERNINA® of America, Inc. Permission to copy granted only to Authorized BERNINA® Dealers
 Mastering
BERNINA /bernette Sewing Machines
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Table of Contents
Class 1 - General Information ..................................................................3
Introduction ....................................................................................................... 4
Meet Your Feet ................................................................................................. 5
Sewing Machine Needles ................................................................................. 6
Thread .............................................................................................................. 8
Stabilizers & Interfacings ................................................................................. 10
Samples ........................................................................................................... 12
Product Reference List .................................................................................... 30

Class 2 - Practical Stitching .................................................................... 31

Seam Samples ................................................................................................ 32
Hem and Edging Samples ............................................................................... 40
Product Reference List .................................................................................... 52

Class 3 - More Practical Stitching ........................................................... 53

Elastic Samples ............................................................................................... 54
Buttonhole & Eyelet Types & Uses .................................................................. 58
Buttonhole Feet ............................................................................................... 59
Button & Buttonhole Samples .......................................................................... 60
Zipper Samples ............................................................................................... 70
Darning Sample ............................................................................................... 74
Product Reference List .................................................................................... 76

Class 4 - Decorative Techniques............................................................. 77

Gathering Samples .......................................................................................... 78
Specialty Needle Samples ............................................................................... 86
Product Reference List .................................................................................... 94

Class 5 - More Decorative Techniques ................................................... 95

Decorative Technique Samples ....................................................................... 96
Patchwork/Quilting/BSR/Applique Samplers .................................................. 108
Surface Embellishment Sampler .................................................................... 124
Product Reference List ................................................................................... 128

Class 6 - Stitch Manipulations................................................................129

Memory - Basic Information ............................................................................ 130
Function Sampler ........................................................................................... 132
Memory Samples ............................................................................................ 144
Setup Program ............................................................................................... 164
Tutorial ............................................................................................................ 166
Creative Consultant ........................................................................................ 167
Product Reference List ................................................................................... 168

Class 7 - Directional Stitching ................................................................169

Directional Stitching Samples ......................................................................... 170
Product Reference List ................................................................................... 190

Appendices .............................................................................................. 191

MASTERING YOUR BERNINA® /bernette® SEWING MACHINE 1/06 2

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 Mastering
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Class 1
General Information
Class Overview
Machine Overview Stabilizers & Interfacing
Parts of the machine Difference between the two
Setting up the machine Different types and applications
Getting ready to sew Sewing sprays
Winding a bobbin
Threading the upper thread Samples
Using the needle threader 1 Straight Stitch/Seaming
2 Needle Positions
Presser Feet & Accessories 3 Securing Stitches
BERNINA’s philosophy - use correct tools 4 Stitching Corners
Specific feet for each machine 5 Zigzag/Oversewing Edges
Attaching the presser feet 6 Satin Stitch
Overview of additional feet 7 Topstitch/Edgestitch
Stitch Plates 8 Basting
Feed Dog 9 Temporary Altered Stitch Memory

Stitch Access Care and Cleaning of the Machine

How to find the stitches on your machine Cleaning the feed dog and needle areas
Making the settings for each stitch Cleaning and lubricating the hook
Cleaning the outside of the machine
Tension
Adjusting tension
Stitch formation This class is formatted for owners of the
following BERNINA® sewing machine models:
Needle Stop Adjustment • classic 1008
Foot control • activa 220
Needle Stop Up/Down function • activa 230PE
Correct use of handwheel • activa 240
• aurora 430
Sewing Machine Needles • aurora 440QE
Types of needles
• artista 630
Sizes of needles
Parts of needle • artista 640
Matching needle and thread • artista 730 & 200 with 730 upgrade installed

Sewing Thread
Good quality vs. poor quality This class is also formatted for owners of the
Fibers and weight following bernette® sewing machine models:
Thread storage ideas • 55 • 65 • 80e • 90e

MASTERING YOUR BERNINA® /bernette® SEWING MACHINE 1/06 3

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 Mastering
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Introduction
Congratulations on your purchase of a BERNINA® or bernette® for BERNINA® sewing machine!

This workbook is designed to be used in conjunction with the Owners Classes you will take at
your BERNINA® dealership, and contains a series of exercises intended to familiarize you with
the features of your new BERNINA® or bernette® sewing machine. In addition, you will learn about
needles, threads, stabilizers, interfacing, presser feet and accessories, all of which will increase
your knowledge of sewing and assist you in achieving success in all of your sewing endeavors.

Once you have completed the exercises designated for your BERNINA® or bernette® machine,
attach the sewn samples to the indicated pages and insert the pages into plastic page protectors
and store them in a 3-ring binder. They can then be used as a reference tool in the future as you
use your machine and explore the creative possibilities it affords you.

BERNINA® of America, Inc. strives to provide its customers not just with quality sewing machines,
but with informative publications and classes. Along with providing Owners Classes, your local
BERNINA® dealer stocks BERNINA® books and magazines, such as Feetures and Through the
Needle. Plus, BERNINA® of America, Inc. has a website – www.berninausa.com – offering free
projects, basic sewing information, a glossary of sewing terms, inspirational stories, interviews
with creative stitchers, and a variety of articles and postings that appeal to all types of stitchers,
no matter which machines are their favorites.

Learn to use your BERNINA® or bernette® machine

to its full extent and enjoy being creative with fabric My BERNINA® or bernette® sewing
and thread! machine model is: _______________

Serial Number: _________________

I purchased it on: ________________

at ____________________________

______________________________

______________________________

MASTERING YOUR BERNINA® /bernette® SEWING MACHINE 1/06 4

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 Mastering
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Meet Your Feet

BERNINA® Presser Feet:
BERNINA BERNIN
BERNINA A®
2005 Top Ten Accessory Feet
• are precision engineered for specific functions
• are Swiss-made for the highest quality
1 Patchwork Foot with Guide #57
• are one-piece metal feet, making them sturdy and durable 2 Walking Foot #50
• are easy to change with one hand, requiring no special tools 3 Edgestitch Foot #10/10C
• have a white shank, making it easier to see the eye of the
needle, resulting in easier threading 4 Patchwork Foot #37
• are, in some cases, modeled after commercial feet used 5 Bulky Overlock Foot #12/12C
in factories to increase speed and production with 6 Clear Foot #34/34C
professional looking results
• do the job intended in relation to all types of sewing 7 Freemotion Quilting Foot #29/29C
(ex. garment-making, quilting, home dec, etc.) 8 Open Embroidery Foot #20/20C
• are supported by the best and most complete educational
9 Invisible Zipper Foot #35
materials in the industry, such as Feetures volumes 1, 2, & 3,
and the BERNINA® website at www.berninausa.com 10 Freemotion Couching Foot #43

bernette® Presser Feet: Walking Foot

• have a white shank, making it easier to see the eye of the Quilting Foot
needle, resulting in easier threading Blindhem Foot
• are available for some of the most common sewing tasks
such as piping, quilting, couching, etc. Satin Stitch Foot
Darning/Embroidery Foot
Gathering Foot
Cording Foot
Overcasting Foot
Hemmer Foot

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Sewing Machine Needles

Along with thread, needles are very important to stitch formation. Many
“mechanical” problems and damage to fabrics can be traced to a bent,
damaged, or incorrect size or type needle. Approximately 60% of all
needles are discarded at some stage of production. When selecting
the correct needle for any sewing project, consider the following:

Needle system – 130/705H

Notes
Needle point – to assure proper stitch formation and avoid fabric damage
Needle size – smaller for lightweight fabrics; larger for heavier fabrics

If the needle is:

Too small – the thread can’t stay in the groove to form a loop to be
picked up by the hook point
Bent – thread loop forms too far away from hook point; hook can’t enter
the loop to form stitch
Blunt – needle won’t pierce fabric so no thread loop forms to make
a stitch
Need To Know
• Needle should be changed every 4-6 hours of sewing. The needle
is the most inexpensive part in your sewing machine but is one of the
most crucial for getting good results and keeping your machine
running well. Don’t let false economy keep you from doing what is
best for your sewing projects and your machine.

• European needles are chrome-plated to glide in and out of fabric

easily.

• The selected thread should fit in the groove on the front of the Needle “Secret” Code
needle. If it isn’t protected by the groove, a needle with a larger
• DRI = Triple
groove should be used.
• E = Embroidery
• J = Jeans
• Always make sure needles are fully inserted as high as possible,
• L, LL, R = Leather
with the flat side to the back.
• M = Microtex
• MET = Metallica
• N = Topstitching/Cordonnet
• Q = Quilting
Needle Size Conversion • S = Stretch
European vs. Domestic • SUK = Fine Ball Point
60 = 8 90 = 14 Regardless of the system, • SES = Medium Ball Point
70 = 10 100 = 16 the greater the number, • WING = Wing
75 = 11 110 = 18 the larger the diameter • ZWI = Double
80 = 12 120 = 19 of the needle. • ZWIHO = Double Wing

MASTERING YOUR BERNINA® /bernette® SEWING MACHINE 8/05 6

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Sewing Machine Needles
Ball Point 60-100 Has a rounded point. 70 for lingerie, Microtex 60-90 A sharp point with a thin shaft.
nylon, jersey; 80 for / Sharp Specially designed for microfiber
T-shirt; 90 for sweatshirt fleece. fabrics.

Stretch 70-90 A stretch needle has a more rounded Quilting 75 & 90 The thin, tapered point of this needle
point than a Ball Point, and a blue causes less damage to fabric when
anti-cling coating which helps to seaming and cross seaming.
prevent skipped stitches in knits and
elastic. Sometimes used on Topstitch 70-100 A sharp point with a large eye and
Ultrasuede®, vinyl, and plastic. deep groove. For use with heavier
fabrics – the large groove cradles
Stretch 2.5/75 Two ballpoint needles on one shank; heavier threads.
Double 3.0/75 each needle has a large scarf. Used
for hemming and for stitching on knit Embroidery 75 & 90 Sharp needle with a large eye and
fabric. groove; also has a coating and a
larger scarf. For use with embroidery
Universal 60-120 A compromise between a sharp and thread – prevents shredding of rayon
a ballpoint needle; can be used on or metallic threads. Two threads
both wovens and knits. may be used through the eye.
60 – very fine batiste
70 – broadcloth Embroidery 2.0/75 Two Embroidery needles attached
80 – trigger and gabardine Double 3.0/75 to one shaft; for double needle
90 – denim and twill work with embroidery threads.
100/110/120 – canvas
Metafil 80 Similar to Embroidery needle, with
Double 1.6/70- Two needles attached to one shank. large eye and deep groove, but
Universal 8.0/100 Used for pintucks, hems, and made of a special heat-resistant alloy
decorative work. and with a friction-reducing coating.
Especially suitable for manufactured
Triple 2.5/90 Three needles attached to one shank. fibers such as polyester, acrylic, nylon.
(Drilling) 3.0/90 Used to create mock smocking and
other decorative effects. Wing 100 & Sharp pointed needle with a non-
110 cutting wedge of metal on each side.
Jeans 70-110 Has a sharp point and a shaft that is Makes a hole in the fabric without
less prone to flex. The sharpness of cutting the threads of the fabric. Used
the needles makes it better for use on for decorative and heirloom work,
denim and woven fabrics where a such as hemstitching. Works best on
clean stitch is desired. natural fibers or on the bias.

Jeans 4.0/80 Two Jeans needles attached to one Double 100 One regular needle and one wing
Double shank. For topstitching on denim with Wing needle attached to a single shaft.
heavy thread; can also be used for Makes one large and one regular hole.
decorative stitching with metallic
thread. Metallica 70-90 Designed for use with metallic threads;
has a large eye and deep groove.
Leather 80-100 Point is a sharp cutting wedge.
Used for leather only. Not for vinyl Metallica 2.0/80 Two Metallica points on one shaft.
or simulated leathers. Double 2.0/80

MASTERING YOUR BERNINA® /bernette® SEWING MACHINE 8/05 7

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Thread
Poor quality or the wrong type of thread can cause poor stitches on any
machine. Thread passes through the eye of the needle approximately
37 times in a “seesaw” action before it forms a single stitch. Poor quality
thread results in crooked and looped stitches, puckered seams, frayed Notes
thread, and/or needle breakage. To achieve quality stitches, a sewing
machine needs three things: correct thread, correct size needle, and
properly adjusted thread tensions.

Several factors such as the fiber, twist, ply, finish, and size of thread
must be considered for use with today’s fabrics for fine stitches.

Staple – refers to the length of fibers used to twist together to form a

single ply. Domestic thread fiber lengths are usually 1½” to 2½” long
while European threads use 5½” to 6½” lengths.

Ply – number of strands twisted together to make a single thread.

Roll – the tendency of thread to roll to the right or left during stitching,
causing the stitch to appear slightly crooked. Poor quality threads are
more likely to roll.

Twist – the crimping of fibers which causes them to interlock firmly into
a single ply. Thread should not untwist during stitching. This will cause
skipped stitches, thread breakage, crooked stitches, and weak spots in
seams.
Right twist – most American
threads are twisted to the right,
causing some rolling. This gives
average stitch quality.

Left twist – Most commercial and

imported threads are twisted to
the left, giving better than average
stitch quality. Left twist resists
rolling and makes a larger loop for
the hook point to enter, reducing
skipped stitches.

MASTERING YOUR BERNINA® /bernette® SEWING MACHINE 8/05 8

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Thread
Wearable art embellishment has necessitated the creation and
marketing of many new thread types, such as rayons and metallics.
Threads made in West Germany are left twist threads; Mettler and
Isacord threads are also left twist. To test the twist of a thread: while Notes
holding the spool in the left hand, roll the strand of thread towards
you with one thumb. Left twist will tighten, right twist will loosen.

Fiber – refers to the type of material used to produce the thread.

Some commonly used threads:
• Polyester 2 ply – such as Metrosene 100. Good for clothing
construction on man-made, natural or blended fabrics. Will
tolerate heat up to 450° Fahrenheit.
• Polyester 3 ply cordonnet – topstitching or buttonhole twist –
such as Mettler 30/3.
• Cotton 2 ply – such as Mettler 60/2 – excellent for French
Machine Sewing, delicate machine embroidery, piecing and
darning.
• Cotton 2 ply – such as Mettler 30/2 – loose twist for a soft,
shiny look in machine embroidery, applique, and buttonholes.
• Cotton 3 ply – such as Mettler 50/3 – excellent for clothing
construction on natural fibers. Tighter twist than embroidery
cotton thread and less puckering on problem fabrics. Cotton
thread stretches less than polyester.
• Rayon – a lustrous embroidery thread. Weaker than cotton,
it is used for decorative work only.
• Polyester 2 ply embroidery thread – Isacord and Polysheen
embroidery thread – excellent for embroidery, very abrasion
resistant.

Thread Storage
Thread does deteriorate with age and should be stored with care
to keep it usable as long as possible. Extreme moisture may cause
thread to swell while very dry conditions can leave it dry and brittle
as it ages. Store thread in a covered container (thread box with a lid,
cabinet with doors, or drawers that close) if possible to keep it dust-
free.

Be wary of old spools of thread recovered from Grandma’s sewing

box. The fibers may be so weak and brittle that even if it sews into a
seam, it may be so unstable that the garment or project will not hold
together and the life of the project may be considerably shortened.

MASTERING YOUR BERNINA® /bernette® SEWING MACHINE 8/05 9

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Stabilizers & Interfacings

Tear-Away Stabilizer: The most commonly used type of stabilizer,
designed to provide temporary support of stitching. Placed on the
wrong side of the project and carefully pulled away once stitching Notes
is complete. Available in three weights – heavy, medium, and light.
Multiple lightweight layers may be preferable to one heavy layer,
as they are easier to remove. Many adhesive versions have appeared
on the market lately, including Stabil-Stick, which has a peel-away
backing which exposes the sticky adhesive, and Hydro-Stick, has
a water-activated adhesive on one side which provides a secure
bond and a high degree of stabilization for very dense and/or intricate
designs. Available in white and black.

Cut-Away Stabilizer: The most widely used stabilizer in the commer-

cial market. Does not break down under dense stitching, due to the
high fiber – rather than paper – content. Excess stabilizer is trimmed
away after stitching (leave approximately ¼” of stabilizer around the
edges). Remaining stabilizer continues to support stitches throughout
life of garment/project. Stabil-Stick and Hydro-Stick are available as
cut-away stabilizers; in addition, PolyMesh, described below, is avail-
able in a fusible version. Available in white and black.

Web/Poly-Mesh Type Stabilizer: A specially formulated cut-away

stabilizer developed for use behind lightweight or light-colored fabrics.
Available in fusible and non-fusible versions. Available in white, black,
and beige.

Water-Soluble Stabilizer: Used for backing and topping, in single

or multiple layers. Available in two weights. Excellent for decorative
stitching and cutwork as there are no remnants of stabilizer left after
removal (it dissolves). As a topping, it keeps stitches from being lost
in heavily napped fabrics such as velvet and corduroy. Examples:
Aqua Film and Badge Master. Aqua Mesh Plus is an adhesive
water-soluble stabilizer.

Iron-On Stabilizer: A non-woven product similar to paper. Perfect

for knits, this tear-away stabilizer is temporarily bonded to the fabric,
inhibiting the tendency of the material to stretch.

Heat Removable Stabilizer: Woven from strands of fiber that are

burned away at a low temperature, heat removable stabilizers are
perfect for heirloom stitchery.

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Stabilizers & Interfacings

Liquid/Spray Stabilizers: Wonderful for sheer fabrics from which all
stabilizer must be removed after stitching, these products are painted or
sprayed onto the fabric. Several light applications of spray stabilizer are Notes
preferable to one heavy application.

Knit Fusible Interfacing: A very lightweight, flexible interfacing some-

times used as a stabilizer, it gives permanent support (as an underlining)
to a fabric. Perfect for plackets, garment edges, under buttonholes, and
anywhere extra body and stability are needed. Can also be used to
stabilize decorative stitch work. Available in white, cream, black, and
gray; sometimes available in additional colors.

Woven Fusible Interfacing: This interfacing is sometimes used as a

stabilizer and is generally cut on the bias to provide better drape. Gives
a firmer hand or finish than knit or non-woven inter-facings. Used for
lapels, facings, and anywhere a great deal of extra body and stability
are needed.

Sewing and Craft Sprays

HRFive Temporary Adhesive Spray: It’s water-soluble, so it washes
out completely. Great for basting or holding two layers of fabric and/or
batting together. Can be used as a repositionable spray, allowing items
to stay sticky but be repositioned on other surfaces. This water-soluble
adhesive washes out completely. Works well for securing “hard-to-hoop”
items such as collars and cuffs to hooped stabilizer for embroidering.
Also works on paper, and be used as a no-show adhesive on vellum.

606 Fusible Spray: 606 is used to make any fabric or stabilizer fusible.
Apply to the wrong side of the fabric to be fused, using several light
coats rather than one heavy coating. The more coats used, the stronger
the bond will be. Fuse as directed on product label.

Fabric Shield: Used to protect fabrics from dust, dirt, grease, and oil,
this spray is water repellent and can be laundered and dry-cleaned.

HRZero Adhesive Remover Spray: For removing adhesives, such as

quilt sprays and other spray adhesives, as well as labels and tapes, from
various surfaces. Use on work surface areas, hoops, needles, frames,
quilting frames, stencils, table tops, etc. For use on plastic, metal, wood,
glass, stone, and ceramic surfaces. Not intended for fabric surfaces.

MASTERING YOUR BERNINA® /bernette® SEWING MACHINE 8/05 11

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Straight Stitch/Seaming
Fabric .......................... two pieces firm, woven fabric, each 4” x 6”
Needle .................................................................... 90/14 Universal
Thread ......................... 30 wt. cotton embroidery, contrasting color Notes
Presser Foot .................. BERNINA® Reverse Pattern Foot #1/1C
....................................... BERNINA® Quilting/Seam Guide
.......................................... bernette® Zigzag/Universal Foot
.................................................... bernette® seam guide bar
Stitch ................................................................................. straight
Needle Position ..................................................................... center

Find the 5/8” engraved guide line on the stitch plate. [Not available
on bernette® 55.]

Place fabric pieces right sides together and align them with the
engraved guide line.

Sew a 5/8” seam on one 6” edge.

Attach and adjust the seam guide and sew a 2” seam on the
opposite edge of the fabric.

MASTERING YOUR BERNINA® /bernette® SEWING MACHINE 8/05 12

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Straight Stitch/Seaming Sample

bernette® 55 65 80e 90e

Straight 2 2 2 2
Stitch

BERNINA® 1008 220 230PE 240 430 440QE 630 640 730
Straight 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1
Stitch

MASTERING YOUR BERNINA® /bernette® SEWING MACHINE 8/05 13

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Needle Positions
Fabric ...................................................... firm, woven fabric 4” x 6”
Stabilizer ............................................. lightweight tear-away, 4” x 6”
Needle .................................................................... 90/14 Universal Notes
Thread .......................... 30 wt. cotton embroidery, contrasting color
Presser Foot .................. BERNINA® Reverse Pattern Foot #1/1C
.......................................... bernette® Zigzag/Universal Foot
Stitch ................................................................................. straight
Needle Position ................................................................. as noted

Fold fabric in half to 2” x 6”.

Select Straight Stitch.

Position the fold of the fabric on the 1” mark on the right side of
the stitch plate. [Not available on bernette® 55.]

Sew ½” (approximately five stitches). Stop with the needle up,

out of the fabric.

Move the needle one position to the left.

bernettes®: Move ½ number to the left using the Stitch Width dial.
Stitch ½”. Stop with needle out of the fabric. Repeat until all left
needle positions have been stitched.

Leaving the fabric under the foot – move the needle position back
to center.

BERNINA® models only:

Move needle one position to the right. Stitch ½”. Note: On the
1008, avoid bending the needle by moving it up out of the fabric
before changing the needle position; this is not necessary on
computerized models, as the machine will automatically wait until
the needle is in the highest position before moving the needle.
Repeat this until all right needle positions have been stitched.

Note: If your machine has a Pattern Repeat function, activate

Pattern Repeat 1x, stitch until the machine automatically stops,
then adjust the needle position; repeat until all positions are sewn.

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Needle Positions Sample

bernette® 55 65 80e 90e

Straight 2 2 2 2
Stitch
Needle 2.5-5mm 3.5-7mm 3.5-7mm 3.5-7mm
Position
Range

BERNINA® 1008 220 230PE 240 430 440QE 630 640 730
Straight 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1
Stitch
Needle 5 9 9 9 11 11 11 11 11
Positions
Pattern -- -- -- -- -- -- yes yes yes
Repeat
Function
Needle -- yes yes yes yes yes yes yes yes
Down/Up
Function

MASTERING YOUR BERNINA® /bernette® SEWING MACHINE 8/05 15

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Securing Stitches
Fabric .............................4 pieces firm, woven fabric, each 4” x 6”
Needle ................................................................... 90/14 Universal
Thread ......................... 30 wt. cotton embroidery, contrasting color Notes
Presser Foot ........... BERNINA® Reverse Pattern Foot #1 or #1C
......................................... bernette® Zigzag/Universal Foot
Additional Accessories .................................. Quilting/Seam Guide
..................................................... Seam Guide with Rulers
................................................. bernette® Seam Guide Bar
Stitches ............................................................................... straight
..................... securing stitch and/or quilters securing stitch
....................................................................... feather Stitch
Needle Position .................................................................... center
Row 1 - Straight Stitch:
Find the 5/8” guide line on the stitch plate. [Not available on bernette®
55.] Fold one piece of fabric in half lengthwise. Place it under the
presser foot; align one 6” edge with the 5/8” guide line.

Select straight stitch. Sew a few stitches forward, then press the
Quick Reverse Button/Lever; sew a few stitches backward; machine
will sew in reverse until the Quick Reverse Button/Lever is released.
Continue stitching the seam; secure the end in the same way.

BERNINA® models only:

Row 2 - Securing Stitch or Quilter’s Securing Stitch:
Attach the Quilting/Seam Guide or Seam Guide with Rulers to the Securing Stitch:
foot. Set the guide 5/8” from the center needle position. Fold another Five straight stitches forward
piece of fabric; align the raw edges with the guide. and back at beginning; five
stitches backward and forward
Select the Securing Stitch. Begin to sew; machine will automatically at end.
secure the stitching, then continue stitching forward. At the end of
the seam, press and release the Quick Reverse button. The machine Quilters Securing Stitch:
will automatically secure the stitching, then stop. Several very short stitches at
beginning and end of straight
Sample 3 - Securing Function: stitching.
Place remaining two fabric pieces wrong sides together. Attach one
of the Seam Guides with Rulers to presser foot. Set guide 2” from Securing Function:
needle; select a feather stitch. Engage the Securing Function, if Several very short stitches at
available; machine will automatically secure the stitches at beginning beginning/end of stitching; can
of stitching. Re-engage when approaching the end of the stitching; be applied to decorative as well
machine will automatically secure the stitching at the end of the as straight stitches.
current stitch pattern (630/640 will stop stitching as well).

MASTERING YOUR BERNINA® /bernette® SEWING MACHINE 8/05 16

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Securing Stitches Sample

bernette® 55 65 80e 90e

Straight 2 2 2 2
Stitch
Securing -- -- -- --
Stitch
Securing -- -- -- --
Function

BERNINA® 1008 220 230PE 240 430 440QE 630 640 730
Securing
and/or --/-- 5/-- --/5 5/-- 5/-- 5/-- 5/324 5/324 5/324
Quilters
Securing
Stitch
Feather -- 45 28 44 53 48 332 332 332
Stitch
Securing -- -- -- -- yes yes yes yes yes
Function

MASTERING YOUR BERNINA® /bernette® SEWING MACHINE 8/05 17

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Stitching Corners
Fabric ..................... two pieces firm, woven fabric, each 4” x 6”
Stabilizer .......................................... lightweight tear-away, 4” x 6”
Needle ................................................................. 90/14 Universal Notes
Thread ....................... 30 wt. cotton embroidery, contrasting color
Presser Foot ................ BERNINA® Reverse Pattern Foot #1/1C
....................................... bernette® Zigzag/Universal Foot
Stitch ............................................................................... straight

BERNINA® bernette®
Select straight stitch. Draw a line 5/8” from each corner
of one fabric square.
Place fabric pieces right sides
together. Select straight stitch.

Place the fabric under the foot Place fabric pieces right sides
with the top edge even with the together.
horizontal line behind the foot.
The right edge should be even Place fabric under foot, top edge
with the 5/8” seam line. even with 2nd horizontal line
behind foot (not available on 55).
Engage the Needle Down func- Right edge should be even with
tion, if available. the 5/8” seam line.

Sew until the bottom edge 80e & 90e: Engage Needle Down
touches the horizontal line in function; audio signal will beep
front of the needle; stop. once. Note: To take a single stitch,
press Needle Up/Down two times.
Pivot, using FHS (Free Hand
System) if available. Continue Sew until the needle is 5/8” from
sewing until you reach the next the end of the fabric.
corner; repeat the pivot.
Pivot. Continue sewing until you
Stitch 3 sides of this sample. come to the next corner; repeat
the pivot.
Note: For crisply turned corners,
take two small stitches diagonally Stitch three sides of this sample.
across corner before completing
the pivot. Note: For crisply turned corners,
take two small stitches diagonally
across corner before completing
the pivot.

MASTERING YOUR BERNINA® /bernette® SEWING MACHINE 8/05 18

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Stitching Corners Sample

bernette® 55 65 80e 90e

Needle -- -- yes yes
Down/Up

BERNINA® 1008 220 230PE 240 430 440QE 630 640 730
Needle -- yes yes yes yes yes yes yes yes
Down/Up
Function
Freehand -- optional optional yes yes yes yes yes yes
System

MASTERING YOUR BERNINA® /bernette® SEWING MACHINE 8/05 19

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Zigzag/Oversewing Edges
Fabric ................................................... firm, woven fabric, 4” x 6 ”
Needle ................................................................ 90/14 Embroidery
Thread ......................... 30 wt. cotton embroidery, contrasting color Notes
Presser Foot ........... BERNINA® Reverse Pattern Foot #1 or #1C
......................................... bernette® Zigzag/Universal Foot
Stitch ........................................................................ zigzag stitch
Needle Position .................................................. center or far right

Select the Zigzag Stitch (width = 4, length = 2).

Finish one 6” edge using the following steps.

Guide edge of fabric under the middle of the presser foot – or –

Move needle position to far right; sew using the inside edge
of the right toe as a guide.

The needle should go into the fabric on one stroke of the needle
and over the edge on the next stroke.

Do not use too long a stitch or too wide a stitch; the edge should
lie flat, not roll.

Match the weight of the thread to the weight of the fabric.

Trim and mount the sample.

MASTERING YOUR BERNINA® /bernette® SEWING MACHINE 8/05 20

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BERNINA®

Zigzag/Oversewing Edges Sample

bernette® 55 65 80e 90e

Zigzag 3 3 3 3
Stitch

BERNINA® 1008 220 230PE 240 430 440QE 630 640 730
Zigzag 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2
Stitch
Needle 5 9 9 9 11 11 11 11 11
Positions

MASTERING YOUR BERNINA® /bernette® SEWING MACHINE 8/05 21

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Satin Stitch
Fabric .................................................. firm, woven fabric, 6” x 8”
Stabilizer ............................................................ tear-away, 4” x 6”
Needle .............................................................. 90/14 Embroidery Notes
Thread ....................... 30 wt. cotton embroidery, contrasting color
Presser Foot .... BERNINA® Open Embroidery Foot #20 or #20C
................................. or BERNINA® Embroidery Foot #6
..................... or BERNINA® Clear Embroidery Foot #39
................................................ bernette® Satin Stitch Foot
Extra Accessory Embroidery Bobbin Case (artista 730/640 only)
Stitch ....................................................................... zigzag stitch
Needle Position ......................................................... as indicated

Fold fabric in half to 4” x 6”. Use stabilizer as needed.

Select the Zigzag Stitch. Change the stitch length to satin stitch
and the stitch width to the widest possible.

Thread the bobbin thread through the eye in the bobbin case
finger if using a machine with a CB hook system. For machines
with a rotary bobbin system, loosen the needle tension slightly
and use the Embroidery (gold latch) Bobbin Case.

Move the needle position to the center. Sew along the center of
the fabric about 1”, then, while continuing to sew, decrease the
stitch width to taper the stitch to 0mm. Continue sewing, widening
the stitch back to maximum. Repeat until stitching reaches end
of fabric.

BERNINA® models only:

Move the needle position all the way to the left. Position the raw
edge of the fabric on the 3/8” line (on the right side of the stitch
plate). Stitch, tapering and widening the satin stitch while sewing.

Move the needle position all the way to the right. Position the fold
of the fabric on the 3/8” line (on the left side of the stitch plate).
Stitch along the right side of the fabric, tapering and widening the
stitching while sewing.

Note: A preprogrammed satin stitch is available on artista models

630/640/730: stitch #354 in the Quilt Stitch menu.
MASTERING YOUR BERNINA® /bernette® SEWING MACHINE 8/05 22
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Satin Stitch Sample

bernette® 55 65 80e 90e

Zigzag 3 3 3 3
Stitch
Bobbin O R R R
Hook
System (Oscillating/O or Rotary/R)

BERNINA® 1008 220 230PE 240 430 440QE 630 640 730
Zigzag 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2
Stitch
Bobbin CB CB CB CB CB CB CB R R
Hook
System (Oscillating/CB or Rotary/R)

MASTERING YOUR BERNINA® /bernette® SEWING MACHINE 8/05 23

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Topstitch/Edgestitch
Fabric ....................... firm, woven fabric, two pieces, 4” x 6” each
Needle ............................................................... 90/14 Embroidery
Thread ........................ 30 wt. cotton embroidery, contrasting color Notes
Presser Foot ................ BERNINA® Edgestitch Foot #10 or #10C
.................................................... bernette® Blindhem Foot
Stitch ............................................................. triple straight stitch
Needle Position .......................................................... as indicated

Place fabrics right sides together. Stitch together with a 5/8” seam
along one 6” side. Finger-press the seam open.

Select the triple straight stitch.

BERNINA® bernette®
From the right side, position Move the white blade 1/8” from
the blade of Foot #10/10C in the needle. Position the blade
the ditch of the seam. Move in the ditch of the seam.
the needle position two places
to the left. Stitch the length of the seam.

Stitch the length of the seam. Increase the stitch length to

5mm.
If available, select the Long
Stitch function. If not available, Move the needle all the way to
increase the stitch length to the left.
5mm.
Move white blade to line up
Move the needle all the way with right side of the needle
to the right, if available. opening of the presser foot.

Starting at the top of the seam With the guide in the ditch of
again, stitch the length of the the seam, and starting at the
seam. top of the seam again, stitch
the length of the seam.

MASTERING YOUR BERNINA® /bernette® SEWING MACHINE 8/05 24

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Topstitch/Edgestitch Sample

bernette® 55 65 80e 90e

Triple 7 15 51 51
Straight Stitch

BERNINA® 1008 220 230PE 240 430 440QE 630 640 730
Triple 9 6 6 6 6 6 6 6 6
Straight
Stitch
Needle 5 9 9 9 11 11 11 11 11
Positions
Long Stitch -- -- -- -- -- -- -- yes yes
Function

MASTERING YOUR BERNINA® /bernette® SEWING MACHINE 8/05 25

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Basting
Fabric .................................... firm, woven fabric, 2 pieces, 4” x 6” each
Needle
Thread
........................................................................ 90/14 Embroidery
................................. 30 wt. cotton embroidery, contrasting color Notes
Foot ... BERNINA® Reverse Pattern Foot #1/1C (1008, 640 & 730) – or –
...... BERNINA® Darning Foot #9 (220/230/240, 430/440 & 630)
.................................................. bernette® Zigzag/Universal Foot
Stitches......................................................................................... straight
......................................................................................... basting
Needle Position ............................................................................. center

Place fabric pieces right sides together.

BERNINA® bernette®
artista 640 & 730 & BERNINA® 1008
Select preprogrammed basting Using a straight stitch with a
stitch, if available, or straight length of 5mm, baste a 5/8”
stitch (preprogrammed length).
Engage Long Stitch function if
seam along one side of fabric.
available.

Attach Foot #1/1C. Baste a 5/8”

seam along one side of fabric.

Adjust stitch length to 5mm; baste

another 5/8” seam along opposite
side of fabric.

activa 220/230/240,
aurora 430/440 & artista 630
Select preprogramed basting
stitch. Attach Foot #9 and lower
feed dog.

Sew one stitch; pull fabric

desired length (2.5mm) of stitch
from behind machine. Take one
stitch. Repeat as needed.

Repeat for opposite edge,

moving fabric 5mm or more
between stitches.

MASTERING YOUR BERNINA® /bernette® SEWING MACHINE 8/05 26

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Basting Sample

Basting Stitch or [Straight Stitch + Long Stitch Function]

Preprogrammed settings (Stitch Length = 2mm)

Basting Stitch or [Straight Stitch + Long Stitch Function]

Stitch Length = 5mm

bernette® 55 65 80e 90e

Straight 2 2 2 2
Stitch

BERNINA® 1008 220 230PE 240 430 440QE 630 640 730
Basting -- 16 19 21 19 21 30 21 21
Stitch
Long Stitch -- -- -- -- -- -- -- yes yes
Function

MASTERING YOUR BERNINA® /bernette® SEWING MACHINE 8/05 27

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BERNINA® electronic models only

Temporary Altered Stitch Memory
Fabric .................................................... firm, woven fabric, 6” x 8”
Stabilizer ............................................................. tear-away, 4” x 6”
Needle ................................................................ 90/14 Embroidery Notes
Thread ......................... 30 wt. cotton embroidery, contrasting color
Presser Foot ........... BERNINA® Reverse Pattern Foot #1 or #1C
Stitch .................................................................................... heart
Needle Position .................................................................... center

Fold fabric to 4” x 6”. Insert stabilizer between layers.

Select the heart or other pattern stitch. Stitch two patterns and stop.
Note: If available, select the Pattern Repeat function 2x. Stitch;
machine will automatically stop after two repeats.
– or –
Note: If available, touch Pattern End while sewing second pattern;
machine will automatically stop at the end of the current pattern.

Reduce the stitch width to 4mm (6mm for the artista 640 and 730).
Stitch two more repeats.

Select Vertical Mirror Image function if available. Stitch two more

repeats.

Select the zigzag stitch from Satin Stitching exercise (pages 22-23).
Note: The sewing computer remembered all the changes made to
the stitch – length, width, and needle position.

All models except artista 630/640/730: Disengage the Mirror Image

function, as it remains active until turned off.

Select heart stitch again. Sew. Note: The sewing computer

remembered all changes made to heart stitch, as well as to zigzag.

Note: In addition to stitch width, length, and needle position, the

artista 630/640/730 sewing computer remembers changes to the
Mirror Image and Pattern Repeat functions. Temporary Altered
Memory will be explored further in Class 6, artista Extras.

Return the active stitch to default settings by touching clr (clear).

MASTERING YOUR BERNINA® /bernette® SEWING MACHINE 8/05 28

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Temporary Altered Stitch Memory Sample

( artista 630/640/730 )

BERNINA® 1008 220 230PE 240 430 440QE 630 640 730
Heart -- 32 46 85 127 156 712 712 712
Stitch
Pattern End -- -- yes yes yes yes yes yes yes
Mirror -- -- -- yes yes yes yes yes yes
Image
Pattern -- -- -- -- -- -- yes yes yes
Extend
Temporary -- yes yes yes yes yes yes yes yes
Stitch Memory

MASTERING YOUR BERNINA® /bernette® SEWING MACHINE 8/05 29

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Class 1
Product Reference List
General Information
‰ Feet-ures, Volumes 1, 2, and 3 OESD Stabilizers
‰ BERNINA® Embroidery Foot #6 ‰ Aqua Film (topping, backing)
‰ BERNINA® Darning Foot #9 ‰ Aqua Mesh
‰ BERNINA® Edgestitch Foot #10 or ‰ Aqua Mesh Plus (adhesive-backed)
‰ BERNINA® Edgestitch Foot #10C ‰ Tear-Away (lightweight, medium weight)
‰ BERNINA® Open Embroidery Foot #20 or ‰ Hydro-Stick Tear-Away
‰ BERNINA® Open Embroidery Foot #20C ‰ Stabil-Stick Tear-Away
‰ BERNINA® Clear Embroidery Foot #39 ‰ Cut-Away (heavy weight)
‰ bernette® Satin Stitch Foot ‰ Xtra Heavyweight Cut-Away
‰ Deluxe Accessory Box ‰ Hydro-Stick Cut-Away
‰ Thread Storage Box ‰ Stabil-Stick Cut-Away
‰ Bobbins ‰ Poly Mesh
‰ Magnetic Pin Cushion ‰ Fusible Poly Mesh
‰ Magnetic Bobbin Holder ‰ HRFive Temporary Adhesive Spray
‰ Straight Stitch Plate ‰ 606 Spray and Fix
‰ Seam Sealant ‰ Fabric Shield
‰ Thread Stand
‰ Supplementary Thread Guide Thread
‰ Multi-Spool Thread Holder ‰ Isacord Polyester
‰ Left Seam Guide ‰ YLI (variety)
‰ Seam Guide with Rulers (right and left) ‰ Mettler Cotton Embroidery
‰ Magnifying Lens Set ‰ Mettler Metrosene Polyester
‰ Suitcase System ‰ Mettler Silk-finish Cotton

Needles Quilters’ Resource Nifty Notions Scissors

‰ Universal 60/70/80/90/100/110/120 ‰ Dressmaker’s shears
‰ Double 1.6/2.0/2.5/3.0/4.0/6.0/8.0 ‰ Trimming scissors
‰ Wing Single/Double ‰ Applique Scissors
‰ Embroidery 75/90
‰ Quilting 75/90
‰ Stretch 70/75/80/90
‰ Ballpoint 60/70/80/90/100

MASTERING YOUR BERNINA® /bernette® SEWING MACHINE 1/06 30

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Class 2
Practical Stitching
Class Overview
Stretch Seam Samples
1 Zigzag Seam
2 Super Stretch Seam
3 Vari-Overlock Seam
4 Flat Joining Seam

Hem & Edging Samples

5 Blind Hem
6 Handpicked Hem
7 Double Needle Hem
8 Jeans Hem
9 Shell Edge
10 Rolled and Whipped Edge

This class is formatted for owners of the

following BERNINA® sewing machine models:
• classic 1008
• activa 220
• activa 230PE
• activa 240
• aurora 430
• aurora 440QE
• artista 630
• artista 640
• artista 730 & 200 with 730 upgrade installed

This class is also formatted for owners of the

following bernette® sewing machine models:
• 55 • 65 • 80e • 90e

MASTERING YOUR BERNINA® /bernette® SEWING MACHINE 1/06 31

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Zigzag Seam
Fabric ........................................................... firm knit fabric 4” x 6”
Needle ................................................................... 80/12 Universal
Thread ........................................................................... all-purpose Notes
Presser Foot ........... BERNINA® Reverse Pattern Foot #1 or #1C
......................................... bernette® Zigzag/Universal Foot
Stitch .................................................................................. zigzag
Needle Position .................................................................... center

Cut the fabric piece in half lengthwise, creating two pieces,

2” x 6” each.

Select the Zigzag Stitch – stitch width of 1.5mm and stitch length
of approximately 1.5mm (generally between 1.4mm and 1.6mm).

Position the fabric to produce a 5/8” seam down one side.

Stitch the seam.

Clip one seam allowance in the middle.

Press one part of the seam open and leave the other half closed
so the stitch is visible.

Trim and mount the sample.

MASTERING YOUR BERNINA® /bernette® SEWING MACHINE 8/05 32

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Zigzag Seam Sample

bernette® 55 65 80e 90e

Zigzag 3 3 3 3
Stitch

BERNINA® 1008 220 230PE 240 430 440QE 630 640 730
Zigzag 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2
Stitch

MASTERING YOUR BERNINA® /bernette® SEWING MACHINE 8/05 33

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BERNINA® models only

Super Stretch Seam
Fabric ..................................................... heavy double knit, 4” x 6”
Needle .................................................................... 80/12 Universal
Thread ........................................................................... all-purpose Notes
Presser Foot .................. BERNINA® Reverse Pattern Foot #1/1C
Stitch .................................................................................. stretch
Needle Position ..................................................................... center

Cut fabric in half lengthwise creating two pieces, 2” x 6” each.

Select the Stretch Stitch.

Position the fabric to produce a 5/8” seam down one side.

Stitch the seam; if fabric stretches, lighten the presser foot

pressure (if available).

Clip one seam allowance in the middle and press one part of
the seam open.

Trim and mount the sample.

Note: This stitch is good for an open seam on all knit fabrics;
works well for sportswear.

MASTERING YOUR BERNINA® /bernette® SEWING MACHINE 8/05 34

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Super Stretch Seam Sample

BERNINA® 1008 220 230PE 240 430 440QE 630 640 730
Super -- 9 9 9 9 9 11 11 11
Stretch
Stitch
Presser -- -- -- -- yes yes yes yes yes
Foot Pressure
Control

MASTERING YOUR BERNINA® /bernette® SEWING MACHINE 8/05 35

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Vari-Overlock Seam
Fabric .......................................................... cotton interlock 4” x 6”
ribbing, 2” x 6”
Needle .................................................................... 80/12 Universal Notes
Thread ........................................................................... all-purpose
Presser Foot ....................... BERNINA® Overlock Foot #2 or #2A
................................................. bernette® Overcasting Foot
Stitch ...................................................... vari-overlock or overlock
Needle Position ..................................................................... center

Cut an inside curve in one corner of fabric to simulate a neckline.

Select the Vari-Overlock Stitch.

If available, engage the Needle Down function.

Place folded ribbing along the curved edge of the fabric (ribbing
and fabric, right sides together).

BERNINA®: Guide the raw edges of the fabric under the pin of
the foot and stitch. If available, use the FHS (Free Hand System)
to maneuver the curve.

bernette®: Guide the fabric against the blade of the foot. Adjust
stitch length and width if needed. Adjust the fabrics as needed.

Trim the sample and mount as shown.

MASTERING YOUR BERNINA® /bernette® SEWING MACHINE 8/05 36

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Vari-Overlock Seam Sample

bernette® 55 65 80e 90e

Overlock 5 6 6 6
Stitch
Needle -- -- yes yes
Up/Down

BERNINA® 1008 220 230PE 240 430 440QE 630 640 730
Vari-
Overlock 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3
Stitch
Needle -- yes yes yes yes yes yes yes yes
Up/Down
Freehand -- optional optional yes yes yes yes yes yes
System

MASTERING YOUR BERNINA® /bernette® SEWING MACHINE 8/05 37

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Flat Joining Seam

Fabric ...................................... two pieces terry cloth, 4” x 6” each
Needle .................................................................. 90/14 Universal
Thread ........................................................................... all-purpose Notes
Presser Foot ............. BERNINA® Reverse Pattern Foot #1/1C or
........................................ BERNINA® Clear Foot #34/34C
........................................ bernette ® Zigzag/Universal Foot
Stitches...................................... stretch overlock or towelling stitch
Needle Position .................................................................... center

Select the Stretch Overlock stitch.

Cut a 5/8” seam allowance off one piece of fabric along one long
edge.

Mark a line on the other piece of fabric, 5/8” from one long edge.
This will be the right-hand piece of fabric.

Overlap the fabric edges left over right, aligning the left raw edge
with the drawn line on the right-hand piece.

Stitch along the raw edge. Turn the fabric over and stitch along
the remaining raw edge.

NOTE: This is a great seam technique to use on bulky fabrics

such as terry cloth.

MASTERING YOUR BERNINA® /bernette® SEWING MACHINE 8/05 38

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Flat Joining Seam Sample

bernette® 55 65 80e 90e

Stretch 10 13 S5 S5
Overlock
Stitch

BERNINA® 1008 220 230PE 240 430 440QE 630 640 730
Stretch 11 15 17 19 -- 23 13 13 13
Overlock
Stitch

MASTERING YOUR BERNINA® /bernette® SEWING MACHINE 8/05 39

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Blind Hem
Fabric .....................................................................heavy flannel, 6” x 8”
Needle
Thread
............................................................................. 80/12 Universal
............................................. 60 weight cotton embroidery thread Notes
Foot ....... BERNINA® Reverse Pattern Foot #1/1C (1008, 640 & 730) or
BERNINA® Darning Foot #9 (220/230/240, 430/440 & 630) and
.......................... BERNINA® Blind Hem Foot #5 (all models)
..................................... bernette® Zigzag/Universal Foot and
..................................................... bernette® Blind Hem Foot
Stitch ............................................................................................ zigzag
...................................................................................... blindstitch
Needle Position ........................................................................ as needed

Finish one 6” edge of the fabric by oversewing with a zigzag stitch

(see pages 20-21).

Fold a 2” hem to the wrong side of the fabric and press.

BERNINA® bernette®
Select a Basting Stitch (see Select a Basting Stitch (see
pages 26-27) and baste hem pages 26-27) and baste the
in place, sewing about ¼” from hem in place, sewing about ¼”
the raw edge. from the raw edge.

Select the Blindstitch and Select Blindstitch and attach

attach Blind Hem Foot #5 to blindhem foot to the machine.
machine. Lengthen blindstitch to 5mm.

Fold hem back to the right side over the basting line.

Sew on the extended hem allowance, keeping the folded edge

next to the guide on the foot.

Adjust the stitch width (BERNINA®) or white guide (bernette®)

if needed so that the needle barely stitches into the fold.

Mount the sample with the edges folded back as shown.

MASTERING YOUR BERNINA® /bernette® SEWING MACHINE 8/05 40

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 Mastering
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BERNINA®

Blind Hem Sample

bernette® 55 65 80e 90e

Zigzag 3 3 3 3
Stitch
Blindstitch 4 5 12 13

BERNINA® 1008 220 230PE 240 430 440QE 630 640 730
Zigzag 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2
Stitch
Basting -- 16 19 21 19 21 30 21 21
Stitch
Blindstitch 3 7 7 7 7 7 9 9 9

MASTERING YOUR BERNINA® /bernette® SEWING MACHINE 8/05 41

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 Mastering
BERNINA /bernette Sewing Machines
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BERNINA®

Handpicked Hem
Fabric .............................................. lightweight broadcloth, 6” x 8”
Needle .................................................................... 80/12 Universal
Thread .................................... 60 weight cotton embroidery thread Notes
Presser Foot ................................ BERNINA® Blind Hem Foot #5
................................................... bernette® Blind Hem Foot
Stitch ............................................................................. blindstitch
Needle Position .............................................................. as needed

Turn up a 1” hem along one of the 6” edges and press.

Turn up the depth of the hem again and press.

Fold the entire hem toward the right side of the garment, so
that the garment fold is almost even with the top edge of the
hem. A scant 1/8” to 1/16” of hem edge should be visible. This
will ensure that both folds are caught by the blind hem stitch.

Place the fabric under the foot just as a traditional blind hem
would be placed.

Sew the hem with Blindstitch, making sure that the zigzag
catches both folds while the straight stitch falls off the edge
and stitches in air forming a chain along the upper hem edge.
Adjust stitch width if needed.

Press and mount the sample.

MASTERING YOUR BERNINA® /bernette® SEWING MACHINE 8/05 42

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 Mastering
BERNINA /bernette Sewing Machines
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BERNINA®

Handpicked Hem Sample

bernette® 55 65 80e 90e

Blindstitch 4 5 12 13

BERNINA® 1008 220 230PE 240 430 440QE 630 640 730
Blindstitch 3 7 7 7 7 7 9 9 9

MASTERING YOUR BERNINA® /bernette® SEWING MACHINE 8/05 43

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 Mastering
BERNINA /bernette Sewing Machines
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BERNINA®

Double Needle Hem

Fabric ........................................................ cotton interlock, 6” x 8”

Needle ..................................................................... Double, 3.0/80
Thread ............................................................ all-purpose, 2 colors
Notes
Presser Foot .................. BERNINA® Reverse Pattern Foot #1/1C
.......................................... bernette® Zigzag/Universal Foot
Stitches ........................................................................... as needed
Needle Position ..................................................................... center

Turn up a 2” hem along one of the 6” edges and press.

bernette® only: When threading the right needle, skip last guide. Manual
Double Needle
Thread the needles with two different colors of thread.
“Limitation”
If available, select the Double Needle Limitation or Security To calculate the maximum
stitch width which can be
Program, and set for the 3.0mm Double Needle.
stitched by any Double
Note: If these features are not available, check to be sure the needle, subtract the width
needles will not strike the foot by turning the handwheel of the needle from the
to “walk” the machine through the first stitch. maximum stitch width
of your sewing machine.
Place the folded edge of the fabric along the 1” guideline on the
right side of the stitch plate. (bernette® 55 only: The 1” guide is For example:
the one farthest from the needle.) 5.5mm - 2.0mm = 3.5mm

Select the straight stitch; sew half of the hem.

Double Needle
Select the suggested stitch or experiment with similar stitches; Threading
stitch the remainder of the seam. Use a supplementary spool
holder and attach a supple-
Trim excess fabric from the wrong side of the hem. mentary thread guide to the
machine, if available. Thread
Press and mount the sample. as usual, placing one thread
to the left of the tension disc
Note: This is a good stitch to use when hemming T-shirts and and through the eye of the
pajamas. You can use other stitches with a double needle left needle; thread the other
for other types of fabrics. to the right of the tension
disk and through the eye of
the right needle.

MASTERING YOUR BERNINA® /bernette® SEWING MACHINE 8/05 44

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BERNINA /bernette Sewing Machines
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BERNINA®

Double Needle Hem Sample

bernette® 55 65 80e 90e

Straight 2 2 2 2
Stitch
Suggested 5 4 4 4
Stitch

BERNINA® 1008 220 230PE 240 430 440QE 630 640 730
Straight 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1
Stitch
Suggested 7 4 4 4 4 4 16 16 16
Stitch SL = 2.5 SL = 2.5 SL = 2.5 SL = 2.5 SL = 2.5
Specialty -- -- -- -- -- -- security security security
Needle
Function

MASTERING YOUR BERNINA® /bernette® SEWING MACHINE 8/05 45

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BERNINA /bernette Sewing Machines
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BERNINA®

Jeans Hem
Fabric ...................................................................... denim, 4” x 6”
Needle ..................................................... Jeans, 100/16 or 110/18
Thread .......................................................................... all-purpose Notes
Presser Foot ........................................ BERNINA® Jeans Foot #8
..................................... bernette® Zigzag/Universal Foot or
........................................................ bernette® Quilting Foot
Stitch ................................................................................ straight
Needle Position .................................................................... center

Cut fabric in two pieces, 4” x 3” each.

Insert a Jeans needle and select the Straight Stitch.

With right sides together, sew a 5/8” seam along one 4” side.
Press seam to one side.

Topstitch, using the edge of the foot along the seam as a guide,
and stitching through the seam allowances.

Turn up the lower edge twice, about 3/8” each time.

Topstitch the hem in place, about 1/8” from the upper edge
of the hem.

Press and mount the sample.

Hint: Sew toward the “gradual rise” of thick seams rather than
toward the thickest part of the seam. Use the Height
Compensation Tool (included with your machine) to keep
the presser foot level; this helps keep the foot in contact
with the fabric, and the fabric in contact with the feed dog.

MASTERING YOUR BERNINA® /bernette® SEWING MACHINE 8/05 46

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 Mastering
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BERNINA®

Jeans Hem Sample

bernette® 55 65 80e 90e

Straight 2 2 2 2
Stitch

BERNINA® 1008 220 230PE 240 430 440QE 630 640 730
Straight 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1
Stitch

MASTERING YOUR BERNINA® /bernette® SEWING MACHINE 8/05 47

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BERNINA®

Shell Edge
Fabric ............................................................... nylon tricot, 6” x 4”
Stabilizer ............................................................. Aqua Film, 2” x 6”
Needle .................................................................... 80/12 Universal Notes
Thread ........................................................................... all-purpose
Presser Foot ......................... BERNINA® Shell Hemmer Foot #69
....................................................... bernette® Hemmer Foot
Stitch ................................... BERNINA® blindstitch (or overlock)
.................................................... bernette® shell hem stitch
Needle Position .............................................................. as needed

BERNINA® bernette®
Select Blindstitch (SW 4mm; Select the Shell Hem stitch
leave SL at default setting). (stitch width = 4mm; leave stitch
Engage Vertical (Left/Right) length at default setting).
Mirror Image function if avail-
able. Increase/tighten the upper
thread tension to 6-8.
Alternative: Select the overlock
stitch (SW 4mm, SL 3.5 mm).
Note: The longer the stitch
length, the larger the shells.

Pull on the fabric a bit to see which way the edge curls. Be sure to
hem “with the curl” rather than against it.
Place the Aqua Film under the edge of the hem, extending about
2” beyond the back edge of the fabric; baste layers together along
the back edge.
Twirl the stabilizer into the scroll of the hemmer foot – the Aqua
Film is stiff enough to easily move into the coil. Begin stitching,
using the Aqua Film to guide the fabric edge into
the coil of the foot.
If necessary, increase/tighten the needle thread tension to create
more defined scallops. Remember to return to normal setting after
completing this sample.
Trim and mount the sample.

MASTERING YOUR BERNINA® /bernette® SEWING MACHINE 8/05 48

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BERNINA®

Shell Edge Sample

bernette® 55 65 80e 90e

Shell Hem 6 6 5 5
Stitch

BERNINA® 1008 220 230PE 240 430 440QE 630 640 730
Blindstitch 3 7 7 7 7 7 9 9 9

MASTERING YOUR BERNINA® /bernette® SEWING MACHINE 8/05 49

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Rolled and Whipped Edge

Fabric .................................................... lightweight cotton, 6” x 4”
Needle ................................................................... 80/12 Universal
Thread .......................................................................... all-purpose Notes
Presser Foot ........... BERNINA® Standard Buttonhole Foot #3/3C
......................................... bernette® Clear Satin Stitch Foot
Stitch .................................................................................. zigzag
Needle Position ......................................................................... left

Clean one 6” lengthwise edge of “whiskers”

Select the Zigzag Stitch (BERNINA® SW = 2.5mm and SL =

1mm or less; bernette® SW = 3.5mm and SL = buttonhole setting).

Loosen the top tension if necessary.

BERNINA® bernette®
Place cut edge of fabric be- Place cut edge of fabric against
tween the center and left toes of the inside of the right toe of the
the presser foot and sew. foot and sew.

Notes:
- The left swing of the needle should be in the fabric, while the
right swing falls off of the right edge of the fabric.
- As needle swings left, it should roll fabric into a tiny rolled edge.
- The finer the fabric, the finer the needle and thread used.

Trim and mount the sample.

This edge finish is used on a single thickness of fine lightweight

fabrics. It is also use as a seam finish or as an edge on ruffles,
hems, etc.

MASTERING YOUR BERNINA® /bernette® SEWING MACHINE 8/05 50

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BERNINA®

Rolled and Whipped Edge Sample

bernette® 55 65 80e 90e

Zigzag 3 3 3 3
Stitch

BERNINA® 1008 220 230PE 240 430 440QE 630 640 730
Zigzag 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2
Stitch

MASTERING YOUR BERNINA® /bernette® SEWING MACHINE 8/05 51

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Class 2
Product Reference List
Practical Stitching
‰ Feet-ures, Volumes 1, 2, and 3 Thread
‰ BERNINA® Vari-Overlock Foot #2 or ‰ All-Purpose
‰ BERNINA® Vari-Overlock Foot #2A ‰ Mettler 60 weight Cotton Embroidery
‰ BERNINA® Standard Buttonhole Foot #3 or
‰ BERNINA® Standard Buttonhole Foot #3C Double Needles
‰ BERNINA® Jeans Foot #8 ‰ 2.0mm
‰ BERNINA® Edgestitch Foot #10 or ‰ 2.5mm
‰ BERNINA® Edgestitch Foot #10C ‰ 3.0mm
‰ BERNINA® Clear Foot #34 or ‰ 4.0mm
‰ BERNINA® Clear Foot #34C ‰ 6.0mm (artista 640 and 730 only)
‰ BERNINA® Shell Hemmer Foot #69 ‰ 8.0mm (artista 640 and 730 only)
‰ bernette® Clear Satin Stitch Foot
‰ bernette® Blind Hem Foot Jeans Needles
‰ bernette® Overcasting Foot ‰ 90/14
‰ bernette® Quilting Foot ‰ 100/16
‰ bernette® Hemmer Foot ‰ Double

‰ Stitch Witchery - 5/8” roll Seam Pressing Tools

‰ Rotary Cutter ‰ BERNINA® Iron
‰ Rotary Cutting Mat ‰ Seam Pressing Stick
‰ Clear, Gridded Ruler
‰ Aqua Film Stabilizer Hem Gauges
‰ Curved Hem Ruler
‰ 6” Sewing Gauge

MASTERING YOUR BERNINA® /bernette® SEWING MACHINE 1/06 52

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Class 3
More Practical Stitching
Class Overview
Elastic Samples
1 Elastic Edging
2 Turned Under Elastic

Buttonhole & Eyelet Types & Uses

Buttonhole Feet

Sizing Buttonholes

Buttonhole Samples
3 Manual Buttonhole/Corded Buttonhole
4 Automatic Buttonhole
5 Memory Buttonhole
6 Straight Stitch Buttonhole
7 Button Sew-On

Zipper Samples This class is formatted for owners of the

8 Centered Zipper following BERNINA® sewing machine models:
9 Invisible Zipper • classic 1008
• activa 220
Mending • activa 230PE
10 Darning • activa 240
• aurora 430
• aurora 440QE
• artista 630
• artista 640
• artista 730 & 200 with 730 upgrade installed

This class is also formatted for owners of the

following bernette® sewing machine models:
• 55 • 65 • 80e • 90e

MASTERING YOUR BERNINA® /bernette® SEWING MACHINE 1/06 53

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Elastic Edging
Fabric ...............................................................nylon tricot, 6” x 4”
Notions ................................................................. 9” of elastic lace
Needle ................................................... 80/12 Balllpoint or Stretch Notes
Thread .......................................................................... all-purpose
Presser Foot ................. BERNINA® Reverse Pattern Foot #1/1C
...................................................... bernette® Zigzag/Universal Foot
Stitch ................................................................................ running
Needle Position .................................................................... center

Select the Running stitch (SW = 5mm, SL = 3.5 to 4mm).

BERNINA® bernette® 80e & 90e
Engage the Needle Down Engage the Needle Down
function, if available. function after stopping.

Position the elastic wrong side down on the right side of the tricot
along one of the 6” edges.

Leave a tail of elastic at the back of the presser foot for a “handle”.

Position the elastic so the stitching is at the bottom edge of the

elastic lace.

Stretch the elastic lace gently, as it is being sewn.

After stitching, trim the surplus tricot from the wrong side of the
elastic lace, close to the stitching.

Mount the sample.

MASTERING YOUR BERNINA® /bernette® SEWING MACHINE 8/05 54

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Elastic Edging Sample

bernette® 55 65 80e 90e

Running 5 4 4 4
Stitch
Needle -- -- yes yes
Down/Up
Function

BERNINA® 1008 220 230PE 240 430 440QE 630 640 730
Running 7 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4
Stitch
Needle -- yes yes yes yes yes yes yes yes
Down/Up
Function

MASTERING YOUR BERNINA® /bernette® SEWING MACHINE 8/05 55

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Turned Under Elastic

Fabric ............................................. lycra (cotton or nylon), 6” x 4”
Notions .............................. 9” of cotton swimwear elastic, ½” wide
Needle ................................................... 80/12 Ballpoint or Stretch
Notes
Thread ..........................................................................all-purpose
Presser Foot ................. BERNINA® Reverse Pattern Foot #1/1C
.......................................... bernette® Zigzag/Universal Foot
Stitch ................................................................................. zigzag
Needle Position .................................... BERNINA® only: far right

Select the zigzag stitch #2 (SW = 3.5 to 4mm and SL = 3.5 to

4mm). BERNINA® only: Set the needle position to the far right.

Position the elastic on the wrong side of the fabric, along one
6” edge.

Allow a 2” tail of elastic to extend beyond the fabric. Lower the

presser foot; this will hold the elastic in place.

Sew the elastic to the fabric, keeping the edge of the elastic and
the edge of the fabric together, and stretching elastic in front of
the foot to simulate the leg of an exercise leotard or swimsuit.

If stopping midway, use the Needle Down function (if available)

to hold the elastic and fabric in place.

Fold the elastic to the wrong side and overstitch the elastic from
the right side using a sewn-out zigzag, lycra, or running stitch with
a length of 3.5 to 4mm. The left side of the stitch should sew off
the edge of the elastic, stitching only into the fabric.

If available, adjust the presser foot pressure and/or stitch length

as needed if elastic stretches out as it is sewn.

Note: This same technique can be used for a turned waistband,

using wider elastic.

MASTERING YOUR BERNINA® /bernette® SEWING MACHINE 8/05 56

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BERNINA /bernette Sewing Machines
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BERNINA®

Turned Under Elastic Sample

bernette® 55 65 80e 90e

Zigzag 3 3 3 3
Stitch
Needle -- -- yes yes
Down/Up
Overstitch 5 4 4 4
Options

BERNINA® 1008 220 230PE 240 430 440QE 630 640 730
Zigzag 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2
Stitch
Needle -- yes yes yes yes yes yes yes yes
Down/Up
Overstitch 7 4, 18 4, 21 4, 24, 25 25 27 16 16 16
Options

MASTERING YOUR BERNINA® /bernette® SEWING MACHINE 8/05 57

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BERNINA®

Buttonholes & Eyelets

Types & Uses
STANDARD BUTTONHOLE
Fine to medium weight fabrics. Blouses, shirts, trousers, bed linens.

HEIRLOOM BUTTONHOLE
Fine to medium weight fabrics. Blouses, shirts, dresses, trousers, children’s and baby
clothes, doll clothes, heirloom work.

STRETCH BUTTONHOLE
All stretch fabrics made from cotton, wool, silk, and synthetic fibers.

ROUND BUTTONHOLE WITH NORMAL BARTACK

Medium to heavy weight fabrics of all types. Clothing, jackets, coats, rainwear.

ROUND BUTTONHOLE WITH HORIZONTAL BARTACK

Medium to heavy weight fabrics of all types. Clothing, jackets, coats, rainwear.

KEYHOLE BUTTONHOLE WITH NORMAL BARTACK

Heavy weight, non-stretch fabrics. Jackets, coats, trousers, leisure wear.

KEYHOLE BUTTONHOLE WITH POINTED BARTACK

Non-stretch firm fabric. Jackets, coats, leisure wear.

KEYHOLE BUTTONHOLE WITH HORIZONTAL BARTACK

Firm, non-stretch fabrics. jackets, coats, leisure wear.

STRAIGHT STITCH BUTTONHOLE

For prestitching buttonholes and pocket openings. For bound buttonholes & welt pockets.

HAND-LOOK BUTTONHOLE
For light- to medium-weight woven fabrics. Blouses, dresses, leisure wear, bedding, crafts

BUTTON SEW-ON PROGRAM

For flat buttons with 2 and 4 holes. For sewing on snaps, hooks, and charms.

NARROW ZIGZAG EYELET

Opening for cords and narrow ribbons/bands, other decorative work.

STRAIGHT STITCH EYELET

Opening for cords and narrow ribbons/bands, other decorative work.

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BERNINA Buttonhole
BUTTONHOLE FEETFeet
®

A number of buttonhole feet are available for BERNINA® sewing machines.

The descriptions below will help differentiate between the various feet.

BUTTONHOLE FOOT #3 Included with the BUTTONHOLE FOOT #3C

The standard 5mm artista 630 The standard 9mm buttonhole
buttonhole foot. Works
®
foot. “C” indicates a “coded” Included with
with any BERNINA Snap-on version foot with a light sensor that artista 640
sewing machine. included with allows 9mm wide stitching. and 730
1008 & activa 220 For models 1630, artista
180, 185 & 730.

BUTTONHOLE FOOT WITH SLIDE #3B AUTOMATIC BUTTONHOLE FOOT #3C

5mm foot with a movable slide indicating The automatic buttonhole foot for older models
buttonhole length, making it easy to sew a with a 9mm feed system, indicated by the letter
series of identical
®
buttonholes. For any “C”. Works with 1630 and artista 180.
BERNINA sewing machine; especially
recommended for 1008 and other
mechanical models.

AUTOMATIC BUTTONHOLE FOOT #3A AUTOMATIC BUTTONHOLE FOOT WITH SLIDE #3A
Automatic foot for older machines with a Combines the handy slide measuring system
5mm and 9mm feed system. “A” indicates of Buttonhole Foot #3B with the electronic
an “automatic” foot, with a light sensor for sensor of the older Automatic Buttonhole
counting stitches. Works with models Feet #3A and #3C. Works with models
1130-1530 and 150-170QE. 135PE/145 and 150-730, as well as
current models indicated below.
Included with activa 230 & 240,
aurora 430 & 440QE,
artista 630, 640, and 730

bernette ®
Buttonhole Feet
4-STEP BUTTONHOLE FOOT AUTOMATIC BUTTONHOLE FOOT
5mm foot with a movable slide The automatic buttonhole foot for
indicating buttonhole length, making the bernette® 65, 80e, and 90e
it easy to sew a series of identical button- sewing machines.
holes. For the bernette® 55 sewing machine.

MASTERING YOUR BERNINA® /bernette® SEWING MACHINE 1/06 59

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Manual/Corded Buttonhole
Fabric .................................................................... heavy flannel, 6” x 8”
Stabilizer ..................................................... lightweight tear-away, 4” x 6”
Notions ........................................................................... 10” of gimp cord Notes
...................................................................................... ½” button
Needle ............................................................................ 90/14 Universal
Thread ................................. 30 wt. cotton embroidery, contrasting color
Presser Foot.....................BERNINA® Standard Buttonhole Foot #3/3C
................................... bernette® 55 only: 4-step buttonhole foot
Stitches..................................... standard buttonhole, keyhole buttonhole
Needle Position .............................................................................. center

Fold the fabric in half to 4 ” x 6”. Press; insert the stabilizer between the layers.
Draw a line 1½” from the fold along the 6” length. Draw a 2nd line 1” from 1st
line. Mark 3 horizontal lines, between fold and drawn line, spaced about 2” apart.

BERNINA® Standard Buttonhole bernette® 55 Standard Buttonhole

Select buttonhole; set SW = 5 and SL
BERNINA® Buttonholes
Select the standard buttonhole; select
the man function from the function = buttonhole. There are slight variations in the
toolbar, if applicable. buttonhole stitching sequences
Position foot over 1st short line, on different BERNINA® sewing
Position the foot over the first short aligning needle with 1½” line. machine models. On most
line, aligning the fold of the fabric with models, turn the buttonhole
the 5/8” marking on the stitch plate, • Select step 1; sew bartack.
• Select step 2; sew left side of knob or press and release the
behind the foot.
buttonhole, stopping at 2nd long line. Quick Reverse button to move
Sew the first side of the buttonhole, • Select step 3; sew bartack. from one step to the next. See
engaging step #1.Stop at the drawn • Select step 4; sew right side. Owner’s Manual for detailed
line and select step #2. Continue instructions for your machine.
stitching remaining buttonhole steps. When stitching is complete, remove
fabric from under the foot. Bring thread
tails to the back and tie off.

BERNINA® & bernette® 55 Corded Buttonhole

Fold cord in half and loop middle around center “toe” of foot [bernette® 55 –
loop cord at back of foot; lock in front grooves and tie ends in front]. Stitch
buttonhole on second line as before, then carefully remove fabric from under
foot. Pull ends of cord until loop is pulled up under buttonhole; trim ends of
cord. If working on a knit fabric, knot ends of cord together before trimming.

BERNINA® Keyhole Buttonhole

Select keyhole buttonhole if available; select man function from function toolbar,
if applicable. Place third short line under presser foot as before. Sew keyhole
buttonhole on 2nd marked line. Cut 1 buttonhole open. Trim and mount sample.

MASTERING YOUR BERNINA® /bernette® SEWING MACHINE 8/05 60

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Manual/Corded Buttonhole Sample

bernette® 55 65 80e 90e

Standard 1 1 1 1
Buttonhole
Manual yes -- -- --
Buttonhole
Auto -- yes yes yes
Buttonhole

BERNINA® 1008 220 230PE 240 430 440QE 630 640 730
Standard dial 10 10 10 10 10 51 51 51
Buttonhole
Keyhole -- 11 11 13 13 14 56 56 56
Buttonhole
Manual yes yes yes yes yes yes yes yes yes
Buttonhole

MASTERING YOUR BERNINA® /bernette® SEWING MACHINE 8/05 61

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Automatic Buttonhole
Fabric ............................................ BERNINA® cotton interlock, 6” x 8”
............................ BERNINA® & bernette® heavy flannel, 6” x 8”
...... BERNINA® fine linen/batiste, 6” x 8” (aurora & artista only) Notes
Stabilizer ................................................................. 3 pieces, 4” x 6” each
Needle ............................................................................ 90/14 Universal
Thread ................................. 30 wt. cotton embroidery, contrasting color
Presser Foot.............. BERNINA® Automatic Buttonhole with Slide #3A
............................................ bernette® automatic buttonhole foot
Buttonholes ............. stretch, standard, handlook (aurora & artista only)
Needle Position .............................................................................. center

Preparation
Fold each fabric in half to 4” x 6”. Press; insert stabilizer between layers. Draw
a line 1½” from the fold along the 6” length. Mark two horizontal lines, running
between the fold and the drawn line, about 2” apart.

BERNINA® bernette® 65/80e/90e

Note: 1008 & activa 220 do not have Select the buttonhole; set SW = 5
an Automatic Buttonhole feature. and SL = buttonhole setting.

Stretch Buttonhole (cotton interlock) Automatic Standard Buttonhole

Position foot over the first short line; Position the foot over the first short
align fabric fold with 5/8” marking line, aligning the needle (front end of
behind foot. Sew buttonhole. buttonhole) with the long drawn line.

Stop at the horizontal line; press • Open button plate and insert button.
Quick Reverse button – this programs • Lower buttonhole lever and push it
length. Continue sewing – buttonhole toward the back of the machine.
is completed automatically. • Stitch buttonhole; the machine will
complete buttonhole automatically.
Sew the programmed buttonhole on
the second line. When stitching is complete, remove
fabric from under the presser foot.
Keyhole Buttonhole (heavy flannel) Bring thread tails to back and tie off.
Stitch a buttonhole on the first line;
sew programmed buttonhole on the Push lever up when not in use.
second line. Note: To determine the
buttonhole length, calculate bead Corded Automatic Buttonhole
length only; eye will sew accordingly. Fold cord in half and loop at back of
foot; lock in front grooves and tie ends.
Handlook Buttonhole (linen/batiste)
(aurora 430/440 & artista 630/640/730) Stitch as above. Tie off as described
Stitch buttonhole on first line; sew at the bottom of page 60.
programmed buttonhole on 2nd line.

MASTERING YOUR BERNINA® /bernette® SEWING MACHINE 8/05 62

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Automatic Buttonhole Samples

bernette® 55 65 80e 90e

Standard 1 1 1 1
Buttonhole
Manual yes -- -- --
Buttonhole
Auto -- yes yes yes
Buttonhole

BERNINA® 1008 220 230PE 240 430 440QE 630 640 730
Automatic -- -- yes yes yes yes yes yes yes
Buttonhole
Standard dial 10 10 10 10 10 51 51 51
Buttonhole
Handlook -- -- -- -- 15 16 63 63 63
Buttonhole
Stretch -- -- -- 12 12 12 53 53 53
Buttonhole

MASTERING YOUR BERNINA® /bernette® SEWING MACHINE 8/05 63

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BERNINA® models only

Memory Buttonhole
Fabric ........................................................... heavy woven, 6” x 8”
Stabilizer ............................................ lightweight tear-away, 4” x 6”
Needle ................................................................... 90/14 Universal Notes
Thread ......................... 30 wt. cotton embroidery, contrasting color
Presser Foot ......................... Automatic Buttonhole with Slide #3A
Stitch ............................................................ standard buttonhole
........................................................... any other buttonhole
Needle Position .................................................................... center

Fold the fabric in half to 4” x 6”. Insert the stabilizer between the
fabric layers. Mark 4 lines on the fabric where the buttonholes will
be sewn.
Temporary Buttonhole Memory
Select the Standard Buttonhole; sew a buttonhole of the desired
length on the first line.

Sew the programmed buttonhole again on the second line.

The machine will remember this length until a new measurement
is programmed or until the machine is turned off.

Long Term Buttonhole Memory

Select any buttonhole; sew a buttonhole of the desired length
on the third line.

To save buttonhole in Long Term Memory, touch the appropriate

symbol or button for your machine.

Turn machine off, then on again.

Select the same buttonhole; sew it again on the fourth line and
compare the size to the previous buttonhole.

MASTERING YOUR BERNINA® /bernette® SEWING MACHINE 8/05 64

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 Mastering
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Memory Buttonhole Sample

BERNINA® 1008 220 230PE 240 430 440QE 630 640 730
Standard dial 10 10 10 10 10 51 51 51
Buttonhole
Long Term -- -- mem mem mem mem save save save
Memory
Buttonhole

MASTERING YOUR BERNINA® /bernette® SEWING MACHINE 8/05 65

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BERNINA® models only

Straight Stitch Buttonhole
Fabric ................................................... firm, woven fabric, 4” x 6”
Stabilizer ........................................... lightweight tear-away, 4” x 6”
Needle ................................................................... 90/14 Universal Notes
Thread ........................ 30 wt. cotton embroidery, contrasting color
Presser Foot .................Automatic Buttonhole Foot with Slide #3A
Stitch ................................................................................ straight
Needle Position .................................................................... center

Mark two lines perpendicular to the fold, spaced about 2” apart.

Attach Automatic Buttonhole Foot with Slide #3A/3C to machine.

Select the Straight Stitch Buttonhole.

Stitch a buttonhole, positioning the beginning of it on the first line,

aligning the fold with the 5/8” marking behind the foot.

Position the needle on the second line. Stitch another straight

stitch buttonhole - do not remove fabric.

Select the Standard Buttonhole - sew this buttonhole (the same

length as the straight stitch buttonhole) directly on top of the
straight stitch buttonhole.

Notes:
- Straight stitch buttonholes can be used to pre-sew and rein-
force buttonholes on fabrics that fray easily. The buttonhole
beads and bartacks will cover the stitching. Any method for
determining buttonhole length can be used.

- Straight stitch buttonholes can be used as buttonholes on

imitation suede and leather.

- The distance between the prestitched lines can be adjusted

with the stitch width. The stitch length can also be adjusted
to suit the fabric.

MASTERING YOUR BERNINA® /bernette® SEWING MACHINE 8/05 66

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BERNINA®

Straight Stitch Buttonhole Sample

BERNINA® 1008 220 230PE 240 430 440QE 630 640 730
Straight -- -- 12 14 14 15 59 59 59
Stitch
Buttonhole
Standard dial 10 10 10 10 10 51 51 51
Buttonhole

MASTERING YOUR BERNINA® /bernette® SEWING MACHINE 8/05 67

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Button Sew-On
Fabric ..................................................... firm, woven fabric 4” x 6”
Stabilizer ............................................ lightweight tear-away, 4” x 6”
Notions .................... button, charm, hook/eye, 6” of narrow ribbon Notes
Needle ................................................................... 90/14 Universal
Thread ......................... 30 wt. cotton embroidery, contrasting color
Presser Foot ....................... BERNINA® Button Sew-On Foot #18
............................................... bernette® button sew-on foot
Stitch .................. button sew on program (or universal or zigzag)
Needle Position .................................................................... center
Lower the feed dogs, then attach the button sew-on foot to the
machine. Select the button the sew-on stitch. If not available,
select the universal or zigzag stitch.

Fold fabric in half to 2” x 6”; press. Insert stabilizer between layers.

Technique #1 – With Thread Shank

Optional: Use a glue stick to hold a button in place.

BERNINA® only: Adjust the pin on Button Sew-On Foot #18 to

the highest position for a long shank. Note: A short shank can be
made for dresses and blouses or a long shank can be made for
heavier fabrics such as coats and blazers.

All BERNINA® & bernette® Machines: Check distance between

the holes of the button by turning the hand wheel; adjust the stitch
width if necessary. Hold the thread tails as you begin to sew.

If using the button sew-on stitch, the machine stops automatically

when program is complete; threads are secured as part of the
program.

If using the universal or zigzag stitch, sew 6-8 stitches, stop, and
tie threads on the wrong side to secure; trim excess thread

Technique #2 – Without Thread Shank

Using the lowest shank setting and the instructions above, attach
a charm, a ribbon, and a hook-and-eye to the same fabric.

Mount the sample.

MASTERING YOUR BERNINA® /bernette® SEWING MACHINE 8/05 68

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Button Sew-On Sample

bernette® 55 65 80e 90e

Universal -- 7 6 6
Stitch
Zigzag 3 3 3 3
Stitch

BERNINA® 1008 220 230PE 240 430 440QE 630 640 730
Button -- 12 13 15 16 17 60 60 60
Sew-On
Stitch
Universal 4 17 20 23 24 26 15 15 15
Stitch
Zigzag 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2
Stitch

MASTERING YOUR BERNINA® /bernette® SEWING MACHINE 8/05 69

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Centered Zipper
Fabric ....................................... two pieces of firm, woven fabric, 6” x 8”
Other ......................................................................... 9” neckline zipper
Needle ............................................................................ 90/14 Universal Notes
Thread ................................. 30 wt. cotton embroidery, contrasting color
Presser Foot........................... BERNINA® Reverse Pattern Foot #1/1C
........................................................BERNINA® Zipper Foot #4
....................................BERNINA® Zipper Foot with Guide #14
.................................................... bernette® zigzag/universal foot
.................................................................... bernette® zipper foot
Stitch ......................................................................................... straight
Needle Position ....................................... far left or far right, as indicated
Other ................................................ Collins Wash-Away Wonder Tape
Attaching the Zipper
Using BERNINA® Foot #1/1C or bernette® zigzag/universal foot and a straight
stitch, sew seam from bottom to where zipper stop will be. Select a basting stitch
(see pages 18-19); continue stitching to within ½” from top of seam. Change
back to a regular length stitch; sew the rest of the way to secure.

Press seam open; place right side of zipper against seam allowance so zipper
teeth are centered over the seam. Pin or baste (using Wonder Tape) each side
of zipper to seam allowance only.
Change to zipper foot; adjust needle/foot position to right or left as needed to
stitch close to zipper teeth. Sew through zipper tape and seam allowance only,
from bottom to top on each side. Pin or baste through all layers.

Topstitching the Zipper

BERNINA® bernette®
Change to Zipper Foot with Guide #14. Left Side: Adjust foot to left of center.
Sewing from right side of fabric and
Left Side: Adjust seam guide 1 notch
starting at lower edge, sink needle into
right of center. Adjust needle position
the seam. Sew out from zipper stop
to far left. Sewing from right side of
about 3/8”, stop, pivot and make sure
fabric and starting at lower edge, sink
the edge of the foot is lying in the ditch
needle into the seam. Sew out from
of the seam. Sew up left side of zipper.
zipper stop about 3/8”, stop, pivot and
make sure seam guide lying in ditch Right Side: Adjust foot to right of
of seam. Sew up left side of zipper. center. Repeat above steps, starting
at seam and sewing to the right.
Right Side: Adjust guide one notch to
left of center; move needle position to Mount sample, attaching only at top.
far right. Repeat above steps, starting
at seam and sewing to the right.
Mount sample, attaching only at top.

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Centered Zipper Sample

bernette® 55 65 80e 90e

Straight 2 2 2 2
Stitch

BERNINA® 1008 220 230PE 240 430 440QE 630 640 730
Straight 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1
Stitch

Needle 5 9 9 9 11 11 11 11 11
Positions

MASTERING YOUR BERNINA® /bernette® SEWING MACHINE 8/05 71

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BERNINA® models only

Invisible Zipper
Fabric ................................. two pieces of firm, woven fabric, 6” x 8”
Other ................................................................ 9” invisible zipper
Needle ............................................................................ 90/14 Universal Notes
Thread ................................. 30 wt. cotton embroidery, contrasting color
Presser Foot...................................................... Invisible Zipper Foot #35
...................................................... Bulky Overlock Foot #12/12C
........................................................ Reverse Pattern Foot #1/1C
Stitch ......................................................................................... straight
Needle Position ....................................................................... as needed

Note: The invisible zipper can be used in place of a conventional

zipper when an uninterrupted design line is desired.

Zipper Insertion
Mark seam lines on right side of fabric. Select the Straight Stitch.
Open zipper. It is not necessary to press coils as with other invisible
zipper applications. Invisible Zipper Foot #35 has specially designed
grooves that guide the zipper coils out of the way as the tape is stitched
in place. Note: Do not sew the seam first as with conventional zippers.
Invisible zipper tapes are sewn to fabric sections first, then seam is
sewn.

With right sides together, baste or pin the right zipper tape to the right
garment piece, so coil is on the 5/8” seam line.

Using center needle position, place coil in right groove of Foot #35.
Sew until foot is stopped by the zipper pull. Note: Needle should sew
close to, but not into, the zipper coils.

With right sides together, baste or pin the left zipper tape to the left
garment piece so that the coil is again on the 5/8” seam line.

Check to be sure the zipper is not twisted. Place the coil in the left
groove of the foot and complete as with the right side.

Completing Seam
Close zipper. Using Bulky Overlock Foot #12 or #12C, place fabric
right sides together and stitch as close to the zipper as possible,
starting about ½” above the bottom of the zipper. It may be necessary
to move the needle position to the left slightly. Backstitch to begin and
sew about 2”; then change to Foot #1C to complete the seam. Press
and trim the sample. Mount it, attaching it only at the top. You can then
lift the sample and use it as a reference.

MASTERING YOUR BERNINA® /bernette® SEWING MACHINE 8/05 72

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Invisible Zipper Sample

BERNINA® 1008 220 230PE 240 430 440QE 630 640 730
Straight 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1
Stitch

MASTERING YOUR BERNINA® /bernette® SEWING MACHINE 8/05 73

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Darning
Fabric .............................................................. firm, woven fabric 4” x 6”
Interfacing ........................................ fusible tricot knit interfacing, 3” x 4”
Needle ............................................................................ 90/14 Universal Notes
Thread ................................. 30 wt. cotton embroidery, contrasting color
Presser Foot.............................................. BERNINA® Darning Foot #9
................................... BERNINA® Reverse Pattern Foot #1/1C
.............. BERNINA® Automatic Buttonhole Foot with Slide #3A
.............................................. bernette® embroidery/darning foot
............................................................ bernette® satin stitch foot
Stitch ......................................................................................... straight
............................................................... simple darning program
.......................................................... reinforced darning program
Needle Position .............................................................................. center

Preparation: Make a ½” hole in the fabric; make 2 tears about 1” each.

Manual Darning
Attach darning foot to machine. Lower feed dog; select straight stitch. Bond
fusible knit interfacing to wrong side of fabric, behind round hole. Hoop fabric
to prevent distortion. Stitch, moving the hoop up and down, then side to side
without pressure. Raise feed dog when finished.

BERNINA® bernette®
Simple Darning Darning with Sewn-Out Zigzag
Select the simple darning program, Select the 3-step zigzag for the
if available, for the first tear. Attach first tear. Attach the satin stitch
Foot #1/1C or #3A. Engage appro- foot to the machine.
priate symbol for your machine.
Sew first row of stitching the length
Sew 1st row the length of tear – of the tear, through middle of tear.
press & release Quick Reverse
at end of row; length is now pro- Sew a second and third row, over-
grammed. Complete darning pro- lapping the first row on each side.
gram – machine stops automatically.
Stitch a fourth and fifth row, over-
Reinforced Darning lapping the second and third rows
Select Reinforced Darning Program on each side.
for second tear. Use Foot #3A.
Continue until entire tear is covered.
Insert needle to left of top of tear.
Begin sewing; notice that running
stitch is sewn first.

When length of the tear has been

covered, press Quick Reverse.
Programming is complete and the
machine will finish automatically.

MASTERING YOUR BERNINA® /bernette® SEWING MACHINE 8/05 74

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Darning Sample

bernette® 55 65 80e 90e

Straight 2 2 2 2
Stitch
3-Step 5 4 4 4
Zigzag Stitch

BERNINA® 1008 220 230PE 240 430 440QE 630 640 730
Straight 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1
Stitch
Simple -- 13 15 17 18 20 22 22 22
Darning Program
Simple -- foot #1 foot #1 foot #1 foot #1 foot #1 foot #3 foot #3C foot #3A
Darning Symbol auto auto auto auto auto counting... counting... recording
Reinforced -- -- -- -- -- -- 23 23 23
Darning Program recording recording recording

MASTERING YOUR BERNINA® /bernette® SEWING MACHINE 8/05 75

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Class 3
Product Reference List
More Practical Stitching
‰ Feet-ures, Volumes 1, 2, and 3
‰ BERNINA® Standard Buttonhole Foot #3 or
‰ BERNINA® Standard Buttonhole Foot #3C
‰ BERNINA® Buttonhole Foot with Slide #3B
‰ BERNINA® Bulky Overlock Foot #12/12C
‰ BERNINA® Zipper Foot with Guide #14
‰ BERNINA® Button Sew-On Foot #18
‰ BERNINA® Invisible Zipper Foot #35
‰ bernette® Zipper Foot
‰ bernette® Embroidery/Darning Foot
‰ bernette® Satin Stitch Foot
‰ bernette® Button Sew-On Foot
‰ bernette® Automatic Buttonhole Foot (65, 80e, 90e)
‰ bernette® 4-Step Buttonhole Foot (55)

‰ BERNINA® Iron

‰ Gimp or Pearl Crown Rayon

‰ Stitch Witchery (narrow roll)
‰ OESD Tear-Away Stabilizer
‰ Buttonhole Space Tape
‰ Buttonhole Placement Gauge
‰ Marking Pens & Pencils
‰ Applique Scissors
‰ Seam Sealant
‰ Glue Stick
‰ Buttonhole Cutter & Block Set
‰ Cotton Elastic
‰ Collins Wash-A-Way Wonder Tape

MASTERING YOUR BERNINA® /bernette® SEWING MACHINE 1/06 76

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Class 4
Decorative Techniques
Class Overview
Gathering Samples
1 Gathering Over One Cord
2 Gathering Over Two Cords
3 Gathering with the Gathering Foot
4 Gathering with BERNINA® Ruffler #86

Specialty Needle Samples

5 Pintucks & Double Needles
6 Triple (Drilling) Needle
7 Wing Needle/Double Wing Needle
8 Entreduex

This class is formatted for owners of the

following BERNINA® sewing machine models:
• classic 1008
• activa 220
• activa 230PE
• activa 240
• aurora 430
• aurora 440QE
• artista 630
• artista 640
• artista 730 & 200 with 730 upgrade installed

This class is also formatted for owners of the

following bernette® sewing machine models:
• 55 • 65 • 80e • 90e

MASTERING YOUR BERNINA® /bernette® SEWING MACHINE 1/06 77

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Gathering Over One Cord

Fabric ........................................... medium weight cotton, 12” x 4”
Notions .......................................................................... 18” of cord
Needle ................................................................... 80/12 Universal Notes
Thread .......................................................................... all-purpose
Presser Foot .......................... BERNINA® Embroidery Foot #6 or
.............................................. BERNINA® Clear Foot #39
.......................................................... bernette® cording foot
Stitch .................................................................................. zigzag
Needle Position .................................................................... center

Trim all four edges of sample fabric before beginning.

BERNINA® bernette®
Thread cord through the hole in Thread cord through center
Foot #6 OR #39, leaving a 2”-3” groove of cording foot, leaving
tail behind the foot. a 2”-3” tail behind the foot.

Select the zigzag stitch and set SW = 2.5mm and SL = 2-2.5mm.

Stitch 5/8” from one 12” edge; sew over the cord.

Secure the cord at the beginning and then pull it to gather the
sample to 6”.

Notes:
- Gathering over cord adds additional strength, eliminates
thread breakage and allows better control of gathering.

- Drop the feed dog and sew a bartack at the beginning and end
of cord for strength.

- Do not sew through cording.

MASTERING YOUR BERNINA® /bernette® SEWING MACHINE 8/05 78

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Gathering Over One Cord Sample

bernette® 55 65 80e 90e

Zigzag 3 3 3 3
Stitch

BERNINA® 1008 220 230PE 240 430 440QE 630 640 730
Zigzag 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2
Stitch

MASTERING YOUR BERNINA® /bernette® SEWING MACHINE 8/05 79

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Gathering Over Two Cords

Fabric ........................................... medium weight cotton, 12” x 4”
Notions .......................................................................... 30” of cord
Needle ................................................................... 80/12 Universal Notes
Thread .......................................................................... all-purpose
Presser Foot ........... BERNINA® Standard Buttonhole Foot #3/3C
........................................................... bernette® cording foot
Stitch ........................................................ BERNINA® gathering
................................................................ bernette® rampart
Needle Position .................................................................... center

Trim all 4 edges of the fabric piece with a wavy rotary cutter.

Place fabric under foot and lower the needle but not the foot.

BERNINA® bernette® 80e & 90e only:

Select the gathering sitch. Select the rampart stitch.

Fold cord in half and loop Fold cord in half. With loop
around the middle toe of foot behind the foot, position the
#3C; lower the foot. cords in the left and right
grooves.
Lift cord loop from toe and pull
cord forward leaving 3” tails Begin to sew, allowing the two
behind the foot. grooves of the cording foot to
guide the cord.
Begin to sew, allowing the two
grooves of the buttonhole foot
to guide the cord.

Sew along one 12” edge, 5/8” from the edge.

Pull on both cords to gather the sample to 6”.

Note: Lower the feed dogs and sew a bartack at beginning and
end of cord for strength.

MASTERING YOUR BERNINA® /bernette® SEWING MACHINE 8/05 80

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Gathering Over Two Cords Sample

bernette® 55 65 80e 90e

Rampart -- -- 8 8
Stitch

BERNINA® 1008 220 230PE 240 430 440QE 630 640 730
Gathering -- 14 16 18 21 22 12 12 12
Stitch

MASTERING YOUR BERNINA® /bernette® SEWING MACHINE 8/05 81

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Gathering with the Gathering Foot

Fabric .. 2 pieces medium weight cotton, one 4” x 6”, one 4” x 12”
Needle ................................................................... 80/12 Universal
Thread .......................................................................... all-purpose Notes
Presser Foot ................. BERNINA® Wide Gathering Foot #16 or
...................... BERNINA® Extra-wide Gathering Foot #16
....................................................... bernette® gathering foot
Stitch ................................................................................ straight
Needle Position ........................................................... as indicated

BERNINA® bernette®
Attach the gathering foot to the Remove presser foot holder and
machine. attach gathering foot to machine.

Select the straight stitch; adjust Select the straight stitch; adjust
stitch length to 5mm; set needle length to 5mm; set needle posi-
position to the far left. tion to center. Tighten upper
thread tension to 7.

Trim all four edges of the sample fabrics before beginning.

Place 12” length of fabric right side up under foot. Align edge of fabric
with 5/8” mark on the stitch plate. Stitch for 2” to 3”; stop.

Insert the 6” length of fabric right side down into the slot of the foot,
with the raw edge against the right side of the slot.

Continue stitching, carefully guiding both pieces of fabric. Guide fabric

that is being gathered with the left hand, flat fabric with the right hand.
Note that fabric being gathered moves under the foot much faster
than the flat, top layer.

Trim and mount sample.

Notes: There are three things that effect the amount of gathers:
1. Fabric Weight - The lighter weight the fabric, the easier to gather.

2. Tension - Increased upper tension increases the amount of

gathering.

3. Stitch Length - The longer the stitch length, the tighter the gathers.

Use the basting stitch or the Long Stitch function to increase gathers
in heavier weight fabrics such as woolens and corduroys.

MASTERING YOUR BERNINA® /bernette® SEWING MACHINE 8/05 82

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Gathering with the Gathering Foot Sample

bernette® 55 65 80e 90e

Straight 2 2 2 2
Stitch

BERNINA® 1008 220 230PE 240 430 440QE 630 640 730
Straight 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1
Stitch

MASTERING YOUR BERNINA® /bernette® SEWING MACHINE 8/05 83

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Gathering with BERNINA® Ruffler #86

Fabric .. 2 pieces medium weight cotton, one 4” x 6”, one 4” x 18”
Needle ................................................................... 80/12 Universal
Thread .......................................................................... all-purpose Notes
Presser Foot ..........................BERNINA® Ruffler Attachment #86
Stitch ................................................................................ straight
Needle Position .................................................................... center

BERNINA® bernette®
Attach Ruffler Attachment #86 to Remove the presser foot holder
the machine. from the machine.

Remove the BERNINA® adapter

from Ruffler Attachment #86.

Attach the Ruffler to the machine.

Trim fabric edges with wavy rotary cutter before sewing.

Select Straight Stitch (SW = 0mm, SL= 1mm to 5mm). The longer
the stitch length, the deeper the pleats will be.

Set the adjustment lever on the attachment at 1.

Place the 18” length of fabric (the piece to be ruffled) wrong side
up between the two blades, snugging it against the edge of the
seam guide slot, making sure it is slightly beyond the needle.

Lower the foot and begin sewing; stitch for 2” to 3”. If gathers
are too deep, turn the adjusting screw counter clockwise; if too
shallow, turn the screw clockwise.

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Gathering with BERNINA® Ruffler #86 Sample

bernette® 55 65 80e 90e

Straight 2 2 2 2
Stitch

BERNINA® 1008 220 230PE 240 430 440QE 630 640 730
Straight 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1
Stitch

MASTERING YOUR BERNINA® /bernette® SEWING MACHINE 8/05 85

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Pintucks & Double Needles

Fabric ............................................. lightweight cotton, 6” x 8”, starched
Needle ...................... Double (size should correspond to foot/machine*)
Thread ................................................................ two spools, all-purpose Notes
Miscellaneous ................. gimp cord or other colorfast, shrink-proof cord
Presser Foot................. BERNINA® Pintuck Foot #30, #31, #32, or #33
............................................................ bernette® satin stitch foot
Stitches........................... straight, various decorative stitches as desired
Needle Position .............................................................................. center

BERNINA® bernette®
Insert the Double needle and Insert the Double needle and
thread with 2 different colors. thread with 2 different colors.
Use the auxilliary spool pin for the
Select straight stitch; adjust length second spool and skip the thread
to 1.75mm-2mm. Engage Double guide just above the needle Tips
Needle Limitation function or Sew at a slower speed and
Security Program if available Select the straight stitch; adjust test movement of the needle,
and select appropriate Double length to 1.75mm-2mm. Adjust making sure that it doesn’t hit
Needle option. needle position to maximum stitch
width – see chart at right. the presser foot.

Parallel Pintucks Parallel Pintucks Tighten top tension to create

Start sewing in one corner and Start sewing in one corner and more dimension.
meander across fabric. Sew 5-6 meander across fabric. Sew 5-6
more rows, evenly spaced across more rows evenly spaced across
one corner of fabric. Position the corner of the fabric. Position * Choose the correct needle:
previously sewn tuck in the groove previous tuck against edge of foot
of the foot. • BERNINA® Pintuck Foot #30
Corded Pintucks 3 groove: 4mm needle
Thread machine, using the same thread in both needles and the bobbin. • BERNINA® Pintuck Foot #31
BERNINA® only: Thread cord through the hole in the needle plate. 5 groove: 2.5 or 3mm needle
• BERNINA® Pintuck Foot #32
It is not possible, with a double needle, to turn completely around a corner 7 groove: 2mm needle
in one step. To turn corners, use the following steps:
• BERNINA® Pintuck Foot #33
bernette® only: Remove accessory table; use center needle position
- Sew to corner; needle in fabric, drop feed dogs. 9 groove: 1.6 needle
- Turn 45°, take 1 stitch, lower needles into fabric, turn another 45°.
- Raise feed dogs and continue. • bernette® 55
satin stitch foot
Sew four random corners. 2.0 needle = 2.5mm max SW
Sew 2 points as on a leaf or star.
3.0 needle = 2mm max SW
- Sew to corner; needle up. • bernette® 65, 80e, 90e
- Pivot work carefully and lower needles back into same place. satin stitch foot
2.0 needle = 4mm max SW
Decorative Pintucks 3.0 needle = 4mm max SW
Select desired decorative stitches; stitch several rows of pintucks.

MASTERING YOUR BERNINA® /bernette® SEWING MACHINE 8/05 86

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Pintucks & Double Needles Sample

bernette® 55 65 80e 90e

Scallop 12 8 11 12
Stitch
Square 13 9 10 11
Stitch
Decorative -- -- 9 10
Stitch

BERNINA® 1008 220 230PE 240 430 440QE 630 640 730
Feather -- 45 28 44 53 48 332 332 332
Stitch
Running 7 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4
Stitch
Straight -- -- -- -- 131 160 719 719 719
Stitch Scallop

MASTERING YOUR BERNINA® /bernette® SEWING MACHINE 8/05 87

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Triple (Drilling) Needle

Fabric ............................................................ firmly woven, 6” x 8”
Stabilizer ................................... firm tear-away or cut-away, 6” x 8”
Needle ..................................................................... Triple (3.0mm) Notes
Thread ...................... Isacord embroidery thread, 3 different colors
Presser Foot .......................... BERNINA® Clear Foot #34/#34C or
.................... BERNINA® Open Embroidery Foot #20/#20C
............................................................ bernette® satin stitch foot
Stitch ................................................................................. straight
................................. various decorative stitches as desired
Needle Position ..................................................................... center

Thread each needle with a different color thread. (bernette® use

the auxiliary spool pin and a supplementary thread stand.)

Engage the Triple Needle Limitation or Security Program,

if available..

Note: If these features are not available, check to be sure the

needles will not strike the foot by turning the handwheel to “walk”
the machine through the first stitch.

Select 5 different stitches and sew across the fabric randomly.

When doing decorative needle work you must sew slowly –

change motor to ½ speed if this option is available.

Trim threads, then trim sample edges, and mount.

Tips
Sew at a slower speed and test
the movement of the needle,
making sure that it doesn’t hit
the presser foot.

Tighten top tension to create

more dimension.

MASTERING YOUR BERNINA® /bernette® SEWING MACHINE 8/05 88

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Triple (Drilling) Needle Sample

bernette® 50 65 80e 90e

Decorative 4 4 4 4
Stitch Option
Decorative -- 7 7 7
Stitch Option
Decorative -- -- 26 28
Stitch Option

BERNINA® 1008 220 230PE 240 430 440QE 630 640 730
Decorative 3 45 28 44 53 48 332 332 332
Stitch Option
Decorative 7 4 68 95 25 27 16 16 16
Stitch Option
Decorative 13 14 16 18 21 22 12 12 12
Stitch Option

MASTERING YOUR BERNINA® /bernette® SEWING MACHINE 8/05 89

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Wing Needle/Double Wing Needle

Fabric ................................................................ cotton organdy, 6” x 8”
Notions .............................................. 6” length of heirloom insertion lace
Needle ......................................................................... Wing size 100/16 Notes
................................................................................ Double Wing
Thread ...................... two spools embroidery thread or 60 weight cotton
Presser Foot.............................. BERNINA® Clear Foot #34/#34C or
.................... BERNINA® Open Embroidery Foot #20/#20C
.................................................... bernette® clear satin stitch foot
Stitch ...................... straight, blindstitch, decorative stitches as desired
Needle Position .............................................................................. center

Single Wing Needle

Insert Wing needle. If available, engage the Wing Needle Limitation
function or Security Program (Wing needle option). This alters the stitch
width so that the “wings” of the needle will not hit the presser foot; also
constrains stitches to the center needle position.

Position lace on top of organdy. Select pin stitch or blanket stitch (if not
available, select a narrow zigzag stitch with SW = 2mm). Stitch along
one edge of lace, engaging the Mirror Image function if necessary and
available. Sew along remaining edge, again engaging Mirror Image –
or turning fabric – as needed. Carefully trim fabric from under lace.
Wing Needle Tips:
Frame lace insertion with three of the stitches suggested in the chart.
When selecting stitches to
Double Wing Needle use with a Wing or Double
Insert Double Wing needle. Select straight stitch. Engage Double Wing Wing Needle, look for multi-
Needle Limitation/Security function if available. Adjust stitch length motion stitches where the
to 3mm. Stitch across the fabric on the bias (diagonal). At end, carefully needle enters the same hole
pivot and sew back along first line of stitching, with “wing” portion of multiple times.
Double needle entering holes created by the first line of stitching.
Stitching on the diagonal
Frame center row with two additional lines of stitching: (bias) of the fabric allows
- 1st row - blindstitch - sew in one direction, pivot, and stitch back holes created by the Wing
to create a “chain” effect needle to open more easily.
- 2nd row - decorative straight stitch motif, such as a scallop To help support fabric and
stitching, temporarily bond a
Carefully remove the stabilizer following the manufacturer’s directions.
layer of heavy, water-soluble
Trim and mount the sample. stabilizer to wrong side of
fabric using a temporary
spray adhesive.

MASTERING YOUR BERNINA® /bernette® SEWING MACHINE 8/05 90

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Wing Needle/Double Wing Needle Sample

bernette® 55 65 80e 90e

Wing 9 10 S10 S11
Needle 10 11 S8 S8
Stitch 11 12 S4 S4
Options
Double Wing 2 2 2 2

Needle 9 12 S4 S4
Stitch 6 6 5 5
Options -- -- S8 S8
-- -- 8 8

BERNINA® 1008 220 230PE 240 430 440QE 630 640 730
Wing 2 28 25 41 50/132 45/161 720/329 720/329 720/329
Needle 7 4 4 4 4 4 726 726 726
Stitch 4 41 59 76 118 147 701 701 701
Options -- 14 16 18 141 171 732 732 732
Double Wing 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1
Needle 3 7 7 7 7 7 9 9 9
Stitch 4 14 16 18 141 171 719 719 733
Options
Specialty -- -- -- -- -- -- security security security
Needle Function

MASTERING YOUR BERNINA® /bernette® SEWING MACHINE 8/05 91

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Entredeux
Fabric ....................................................... cotton organdy, 8” x 6”
Notions .......................................... heavy cotton thread for cording
Stabilizer ...................... spray starch and/or water soluble stabilizer Notes
Needle ..................................................................... Wing, size 100
Thread ...................................................................60 weight cotton
Presser Foot ..................................... BERNINA® Cording Foot #25
Stitch ................................................................................. straight
Needle Position ..................................................................... center

Insert Wing needle. If available, engage the Security Program,

selecting the Wing needle option. This alters the stitch width so
that the “wings” of the needle will not hit the presser foot; also
constrains stitches to the center needle position.

Select the entreduex or star stitch; adjust stitch length to 3mm.

Attach Cording Foot #25, but do not load cord into the guides
at this time. Stitch a row of entredeux.

Load Cording Foot #25 with lengths of heavy cotton thread

in grooves 2 and 4.

Stitch a second row of entredeux. As the hemstitching is sewn,

the heavy cotton threads fill the outer edges of the stitching,
creating a stitch that looks very similar to fine, purchased
endredeux.

Trim and mount sample.

MASTERING YOUR BERNINA® /bernette® SEWING MACHINE 8/05 92

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Entreduex Sample

BERNINA® 1008 220 230PE 240 430 440QE 630 640 730
Star/Pattern -- 44 64 84 126 155 711 711 711
Stitch
Entredeux -- 41 59 76 118 147 701 701 701
Stitch

MASTERING YOUR BERNINA® /bernette® SEWING MACHINE 8/05 93

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Class 4
Product Reference List
Decorative Techniques
‰ Feet-ures, Volumes 1, 2, and 3 Needles
‰ BERNINA® Standard Buttonhole Foot #3 or ‰ Double Needles
‰ BERNINA® Standard Buttonhole Foot #3C (1.6/70, 1.6/80, 2.0/80, 2.5/80, 3.0/80, 4.0/80,
‰ Embroidery Foot #6 3.0/90, 4.0/90, 4.0/100, 6.0/100, 8.0/100)
‰ Wide Gathering Foot #16 or ‰ Triple (or Drilling) Needles (2.5/80, 3.0/80)
‰ Extra Wide Gathering Foot #16 ‰ Wing Needle (100/16, 120/20)
‰ BERNINA® Open Embroidery Foot #20 or ‰ Double Wing Needle (100/16)
‰ BERNINA® Open Embroidery Foot #20C
‰ BERNINA® 3-Groove Cording Foot #22 ‰ Guide Bar Set with Rulers
‰ BERNINA® 5-Groove Cording Foot #25 ‰ Wavy Rotary Cutter
‰ Pintuck Feet ‰ Ruler
‰ #30 - 3 groove ‰ Cutting Mat
‰ #31 - 5 groove
‰ #32 - 7 groove ‰ BERNINA® Iron
‰ #33 - 9 groove ‰ Elastic Thread
‰ BERNINA® Clear Foot #34 or ‰ Gimp Cord or Pearl Crown Rayon
‰ BERNINA® Clear Foot #34C ‰ Spray Sizing
‰ Clear Embroidery Foot #39
‰ Ruffler Attachment #86
‰ bernette® Cording Foot
‰ bernette® Gathering Foot
‰ bernette® Satin Stitch Foot

MASTERING YOUR BERNINA® /bernette® SEWING MACHINE 1/06 94

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Class 5
More Decorative Techniques
Class Overview
Decorative Detail Samples
1 Pleats and Tucks
2 Off-the-Edge Scallops
3 Lace Insertion
4 Fagoting and Bundling
5 Fringing
6 Piping

Embellishment Samples
7 Patchwork/Quilting
8 Applique
9 Surface Embellishment
• Crazy Patchwork
• Decorative Stitching
• Bobbinwork
• Couching

This class is formatted for owners of the

following BERNINA® sewing machine models:
• classic 1008
• activa 220
• activa 230PE
• activa 240
• aurora 430
• aurora 440QE
• artista 630
• artista 640
• artista 730 & 200 with 730 upgrade installed

This class is also formatted for owners of the

following bernette® sewing machine models:
• 55 • 65 • 80e • 90e

MASTERING YOUR BERNINA® /bernette® SEWING MACHINE 1/06 95

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Pleats and Tucks

Fabric ................................................ medium weight cotton, 4” x 18”
Needle ........................................................................ 80/12 Universal
Thread ........................................................ all-purpose sewing thread Notes
Presser Foot ................................... BERNINA® Clear Foot #34/34C
............................................ BERNINA® Edgestitch #10/10C
................................................ bernette® zigzag/universal foot
........................................................... bernette® blindhem foot
Stitch ..................................................................................... straight
Needle Position ................................................................. as directed

BERNINA® Clear Foot #34/34C or bernette® zigzag/universal foot

Mark fabric as shown; fold fabric along lines; press.

Fold fabric on 1st line. Stitch

1st tuck, aligning right edge of
foot with fold.

Fold fabric along second 2½” 3” 5” 5” 1” 1½”

line. Move needle position
to the far left; stitch tuck,
aligning fold with the right
edge of the foot.

Attach seam guide to back of foot. Adjust guide to 2¼” from center needle
position. Fold fabric on 3rd line; stitch a 3rd tuck, aligning guide along fold.

BERNINA® bernette®
Edgestitch Foot #10/10C blindhem foot
Fold fabric along fourth line. Place Move white blade to right until it is
fold to the left of the center blade of aligned with the right side of the
Foot #10/10C, with the fold against needle opening.
the blade.
Fold fabric along fourth line. Place
Move needle position all the way to fold to the left of guide, with fold
the left; sew. against guide. Sew.

Fold fabric along fifth line; position Fold fabric along fifth line; position
fabric as for the last fold. fabric as for the last fold.

Move needle position to “half left” Move white guide halfway back to
position; sew. center; sew.

Note: Very narrow tucks are easily Note: Very narrow tucks are easily
stitched with this foot by adjusting stitched with this foot by reposition-
the needle position. ing the white guide.

MASTERING YOUR BERNINA® /bernette® SEWING MACHINE 8/05 96

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Pleats and Tucks Sample

bernette® 55 65 80e 90e

Straight 2 2 2 2
Stitch

BERNINA® 1008 220 230PE 240 430 440QE 630 640 730
Straight 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1
Stitch
Needle 5 9 9 9 11 11 11 11 11
Positions

MASTERING YOUR BERNINA® /bernette® SEWING MACHINE 8/05 97

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BERNINA® models only

Off-the-Edge Scallops
Fabric ........................................... medium weight cotton, 12” x 4”
Notions ............................................... cording (gimp, perle cotton)
........................ Stitch N Ditch™ Heirloom Stabilizer, 1 yard Notes
Needle ................................................................... 80/12 Universal
Thread .............................................................. #75/11 Embroidery
Presser Foot .......................... BERNINA® Patchwork Foot #37 or
...................... BERNINA® Patchwork Foot with Guide #57
................... BERNINA® Open Embroidery Foot #20/#20C
Stitch ................................................................................ straight
Needle Position .................................................................... center

Draw 4 lines about 1½” apart across the width of the fabric. Fold
along each line and press.

Select the Straight Stitch; attach Patchwork Foot #37 to machine.

Sew a ¼” tuck on each of the folds.

Change to Open Embroidery Foot #20 or #20C.

Select the Satin Scallop Stitch. Thread the cord through the hole
in the stitch plate (directly in front of the needle).

Lay the edge of the Stitch N Ditch™ under the previously sewn
tuck, with most of the paper showing beyond the fold of the tuck.

Begin stitching on the paper; cord will be drawn into the scallop
stitching. (The scallop actually forms over the cord.) Continue
stitching, guiding the fabric under the foot so that only 2-3 stitches
at the “V” of the scallop stitch into the fold.

Sew off-the-edge scallops to each of the stitched tucks.

Off the Edge Tip:
Gently remove Stitch N Ditch™ from completed scallops. Stitch N Ditch™ Heirloom
Stabilizer is very thin, crisp,
Trim and mount the sample. and easy to tear, which makes
it perfect for off-the-edge
techniques.

MASTERING YOUR BERNINA® /bernette® SEWING MACHINE 8/05 98

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Off-the-Edge Scallops Sample

BERNINA® 1008 220 230PE 240 430 440QE 630 640 730
Straight 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1
Stitch
Satin Stitch 8 34 48 58 88 114 416 416 416
Scallop

MASTERING YOUR BERNINA® /bernette® SEWING MACHINE 8/05 99

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Lace Insertion
Fabric .................................................... lightweight cotton 4” x 6”
Notions ............................................ 9” insertion lace, ½ ”- ¾” wide
Needle ................................................................... 70/10 Universal Notes
Thread .................................................................. 60 weight cotton
Presser Foot ............................... BERNINA® Edgestitch #10/10C
....................................................... bernette® blindhem foot
Stitch ................................................................................ straight
Needle Position ...................................................half left, half right

First Run: Pin or spray-baste lace in position on top of fabric. Select

straight stitch; adjust length to 1.5mm-2mm.

BERNINA® bernette®
Move needle to half left (artista Move white blade 1/8” from the
640 & 730: adjust needle one needle). Align right edge of lace
position to left). Align left edge of with guide; sew.
lace with blade; sew.
Turn fabric 180° and sew the right
Sew the right side in the same side in the same manner.
manner using the half right needle
position (artista 640 & 730: adjust
needle one position to right).

From the back, carefully cut through fabric, between the two rows of
stitching, leaving lace intact. Press fabric back against the straight stitch.

Second Run: Select zigzag stitch; SW = 1.5-2mm and SL = 0.75-1mm.

BERNINA® bernette®
Move needle to half left (640/730: Place edge of lace first to the right
adjust needle one position to left). of the blade, and zigzag over the
edge of the lace and the previously
Place edge of lace first to the left sewn straight stitch.
of the guide, and zigzag over the
edge of the lace and previously Turn fabric 180° and sew the right
sewn straight stitch. side in the same manner.

Sew right side in the same way,

using a half right needle position
(artista 640/730: adjust needle
one position to right).

Trim surplus fabric from wrong side. Trim and mount sample.

MASTERING YOUR BERNINA® /bernette® SEWING MACHINE 8/05 100

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Lace Insertion Sample

bernette® 55 65 80e 90e

Straight 2 2 2 2
Stitch
Zigzag 3 3 3 3
Stitch

BERNINA® 1008 220 230PE 240 430 440QE 640 650 730
Straight 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1
Stitch
Zigzag 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2
Stitch

MASTERING YOUR BERNINA® /bernette® SEWING MACHINE 8/05 101

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Fagoting & Bundling

Fabric ................................................ firm fabric, 2 pieces, 4 ”x 6” each

Needle ......................................................................... 90/14 Embroidery Notes
Thread ................................................................................... embroidery
Presser Foot........................................ BERNINA® Tailor Tack Foot #7
........................... BERNINA® Open Embroidery Foot #20/20C
............................................... BERNINA® Clear Foot #34/34C
Stitches........................................................................................... zigzag
...................................................... decorative stitches as desired
.................................................................................triple straight
Needle Position .............................................................................. center

Fagoting
Select Zigzag Stitch with a width of 5mm and a satin stitch
length. Decrease upper tension to 1. Attach Foot #7 to machine.
Place fabrics right sides together; sew with a 5/8” seam on a 6”
side. Sew slowly; adjust motor to ½ speed, if available. When
seam is complete, pull the two layers firmly apart and press seam
allowances open.
Change to Open Embroidery Foot #20/20C for better visibility.
Stabilize stitching area if necessary. From right side, anchor
fagoting to fabric on either side with a decorative stitch through
the seam allowance. Adjust width and length as desired; engage
Mirror Image (if available) as needed. Trim any excess seam
allowance if needed.
Bundling
To “bundle” fagoting stitches, select the Triple Straight Stitch,
attach Clear Foot #34/34C to the machine, center the foot over
the fagoting stitches, and sew through the middle. Start bundling
at center and sew to one end, leaving half the stitching unbundled.

MASTERING YOUR BERNINA® /bernette® SEWING MACHINE 8/05 102

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Fagoting & Bundling Sample

BERNINA® 1008 220 230PE 240 430 440QE 630 640 730
Zigzag 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2
Stitch
Decorative 13 36 52/53 62/63 70 93 427 427 427
Stitch
Triple 9 6 6 6 6 6 6 6 6
Straight
Stitch

MASTERING YOUR BERNINA® /bernette® SEWING MACHINE 8/05 103

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Fringing

Fabric ................................................ firm fabric, 2 pieces, 4 ”x 6” each

Needle ......................................................................... 90/14 Embroidery Notes
Thread ................................................................................... embroidery
Presser Foot........................................ BERNINA® Tailor Tack Foot #7
.......................................... BERNINA® Embroidery Foot #6 or
................................... BERNINA® Clear Embrodiery Foot #39
............................................... BERNINA® Clear Foot #34/34C
Stitches........................................................................................... zigzag
...................................................... decorative stitches as desired
Needle Position .............................................................................. center

Fringing
Select a zigzag stitch with a width of 5mm and a satin stitch
length. Attach Tailor Tack Foot #7 to the machine. Insert a bobbin
in a contrasting color.

Turn under ½” at one 6” end of one fabric piece; turn under ½”

along one 5” end of the remaining fabric piece. Butt folded edges
together under the presser foot, right sides up.
Guide fabric while stitching so needle pierces both fabric pieces.

Carefully remove the bobbin thread and gently separate the two
fabrics, leaving them joined by strands of the upper thread.

Change to Embroidery Foot #6. Anchor the upper edge of the

fringe to the fagoting/bundling sample by oversewing it. Sew
halfway with a decorative stitch and remainder with a different
decorative stitch.

After fringe is secured on one side, the other fabric can be pulled
away.

Trim excess seam allowance from wrong side if needed.

MASTERING YOUR BERNINA® /bernette® SEWING MACHINE 8/05 104

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Fringing Sample

BERNINA® 1008 220 230PE 240 430 440QE 630 640 730
Decorative 13 28 26 42 50 45 329 329 329
Stitch
Decorative 12 36 52/53 62/63 70 93 406 406 406
Stitch

MASTERING YOUR BERNINA® /bernette® SEWING MACHINE 8/05 105

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BERNINA®

Piping
Fabric .................................................................... firmly woven, 6” x 4”
Notions ....................................................................... bias strips, 2” x 15”
........................................................... 18” length of 3/32” filler cord Notes
Needle ............................................................................ 90/14 Universal
Thread ................................................................................... all-purpose
Presser Foot......................... BERNINA® Bulky Overlock Foot #12/12C
.................................................................... bernette® zipper foot
Stitch ......................................................................................... straight
Needle Position ....................................................................... as needed

BERNINA® Covered Piping bernette® Covered Piping

Fold wrong side of bias strip around Fold wrong side of bias strip around
filler cord and position it under the filler cord and position it under the
presser foot with folded edge to the presser foot with folded edge to the
left and the cord under center of foot left and the cord under the left side
so it rides in the large groove. of the foot.

Using a straight stitch with needle in Using a straight stitch with needle in
the half right position, begin stitching. the center position, begin stitching.
Stitches will be sewn alongside cord, Stitches will be sewn alongside cord,
creating a 5/8” seam. Trim seam creating a 5/8” seam. Trim seam
allowance if necessary. allowance if necessary.

Once piping is covered, it is ready to be inserted into a seam.

Covered Cord Tips:
Cut the other piece of fabric in half, making two 2” x 6” pieces. Fabric strips should be cut
1¼” plus the circumference
Inserting Piping of the cord being used. Trim
Matching raw edges, place piping right sides together with one long fabric the 2” strip, if needed, to work
edge. Place second piece right sides together with piping and first piece.
with the cording being used.
BERNINA® bernette® This should result in a 5/8”
Position fabric/piping under presser Position fabric/piping under left side seam allowance on the
foot; adjust needle one position of presser foot; adjust guide to left. finished piping.
closer to center.
Strips for covering cord
Note: By adjusting the needle posi- are generally cut on the bias
tion, the previous stitching will not be (diagonal); however, cross-
seen on the finished project. wise and lengthwise strips
may be used if there are
no corners to be turned or
curves to maneuver.

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BERNINA®

Piping Sample

bernette® 55 65 80e 90e

Straight 2 2 2 2
Stitch

BERNINA® 1008 220 230PE 240 430 440QE 630 640 730
Straight 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1
Stitch
Needle 5 9 9 9 11 11 11 11 11
Positions

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Patchwork/Quilting
Fabrics ...................... medium print cotton, one 4” x 8” center strip
.................................... “solid” print cotton, two 4” x 8” strips
.......................... print cotton, one 8” x 12” square (backing) Notes
Stabilizer ............................................... thin cotton batting, 8” x 12”
.............................. temporary adhesive spray (ex: HRFive)
Needle .......................................................................90/14 Quilting
Thread ....................................................... 30 weight cotton thread
................................. clear monofilament (“invisible” thread)
Presser Feet .......................... BERNINA® Patchwork Foot #37 or
...................... BERNINA® Patchwork Foot with Guide #57
............................................ BERNINA® Walking Foot #50
.................................. BERNINA® Leather Roller Foot #55
.................. BERNINA® Freemotion Quilting Foot #29/29C
.......................................................... bernette® quilting foot
.......................................................... bernette® walking foot
....................................... bernette® darning/embroidery foot
Stitches .................................................. straight, hand-look quilting
Needle Position ..................................................................... center

Patchwork
BERNINA® bernette®
Seam “solid” strips to each Seam “solid” strips to each
side of center print strip using side of center print strip using
Patchwork Foot #37 or Patch- the mark at the right of the
work Foot with Guide #57 and right toe of the quilting foot
a ¼” seam allowance. Press and a ¼” seam allowance.
seams to sides. Press seams to sides.

Create a “quilt sandwich” by placing batting between patchwork

and backing square, wrong sides to the batting. Use a temporary
adhesive spray such as HRFive to “baste” the layers together.

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Patchwork/Quilting
Quilting “In-the-Ditch”
Attach walking foot to sewing machine. Select straight stitch. Owner’s manual: _____

Stitch in the “ditch” of the seams between blocks or pieces.

Hand-Look Quilting Stitch Notes:

(BERNINA® electronic & bernette® 80e & 90e machines only)
Attach the walking foot to the sewing machine.

Insert a bobbin of colorful 30 weight cotton thread into the

machine; thread the needle with clear monofilament thread.

Select hand-look quilting stitch. Stitch along outer edge of the

patchwork seams, about 1/8” to ¼” from the seamline. Increase
tension as necessary; bobbin threads should pull to surface to
form “stitches”; monofilament creates “spaces” between stitches.

Stippling
Thread the needle with cotton quilting thread. Select straight stitch
and lower the feed dog.

BERNINA® bernette®
Attach Freemotion Quilting Foot Attach the darning/embroidery
#29/29C to the machine. foot to the machine.

Using needle and thread as a “pencil”, doodle in the two “solid”

patches, moving the fabric “paper” under the needle. It takes a
bit of practice to get the hang of this; be patient and you’ll soon
learn to coordinate hand movements and motor speed. Lines of
stippling should not cross over each other, the stitches should be
about 2.5mm long, and all lines should be curves.

This is one sewing technique that can be practiced with a pencil

and paper. Practice your stippling technique by holding a pencil
straight up and down and doodling in the “spaghetti” patterns of
stippling stitches. Freemotion embroidery and quilting can be
practiced in the same way.

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Patchwork/Quilting
Outline Quilting
Thread the needle with cotton quilting thread. Select a straight
stitch with a length of 2.5mm. Notes
BERNINA® bernette®
Leather Roller Foot #55 Darning/Embroidery Foot
Attach Leather Roller Foot #55 Attach the darning/embroidery
to machine. Move needle to foot to the machine.
left as needed. Foot #55 will
hold the fabric in place as you
“roll” around the fabric.

Using needle and thread as a “pencil”, trace/stitch outlines about

¼” from the printed figures in the center strip of the quilt block.

If available, engage the Needle Stop Down function when

quilting. This will cause the needle to always stop down in the
fabric, lessening the chance of the fabric shifting each time
stitching is stopped and started again.

Practice makes perfect. Before quilting, create a sample “quilt

sandwich” using the same fabrics and batting as your project.
Practice stitching perfect curves and corners. Even experienced
quilters can always use a warm-up before stitching.

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BERNINA®

Patchwork/Quilting Sampler

bernette® 55 65 80e 90e

Straight 2 2 2 2
Stitch
Hand-Look -- -- 15 16
Quilt Stitch

BERNINA® 1008 220 230PE 240 430 440QE 630 640 730
Straight 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1
Stitch
Hand-Look -- 27 24 40 49 44 328 328 328
Quilt Stitch

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BERNINA® models with BSR capability only (430/440/630/640/730)

BERNINA® Stitch Regulator
The BERNINA Stitch Regulator (BSR) is designed to assist
with freemotion stitching techniques by keeping the stitch length
regular and consistent. Notes
The BSR is a standard accessory for the...
• aurora 440QE (straight stitch only)
• artista 730 (straight stitch & zigzag)
• artista 200 with 730 upgrade installed (straight stitch & zigzag)

...and is available as an optional accessory for the...

• aurora 430 (straight stitch only)
• artista 630 (straight stitch & zigzag)
• artista 640 (straight stitch & zigzag)

The BSR Foot is equipped with three unique soles, each

designed for different sewing situations:

• A closed, O-shaped, metal sole, similar to that of Darning

Foot #9, for detailed freemotion stitching techniques such as
stippling, bobbin-work, and thread painting.

• An open, C-shaped, metal sole, similar to that of Freemotion

Embroidery Foot #24, for added visibility in front of needle
when following printed or marked lines. The “prongs” of this
sole are slightly curved, facilitating movement over several
layers of fabric and/or thread.

• A large, clear plastic sole for echo-quilting and medium-

to large-scale freemotion stitching techniques. The large sole
moves easily over raised areas and is useful for stitching thick
batts, as it compresses a larger area around the needle,
increasing visibility. Cross-hairs and concentric circle markings
aid in accurate stitch placement .

Experiment with each sole; personal preference plays a major role

in determining which sole is most appropriate for you to use with
each project and/or technique.

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BERNINA® Stitch Regulator

Changing BSR Soles
To remove a sole from the BSR foot, press the Owner’s manual: _____
release buttons (indicated in drawing at right by
red arrows) and slide the sole along the angled
grooves.
Notes:
To attach a sole to the BSR foot, place it over
the angled grooves and slide it up until it clicks into place.

Installing the BSR Foot

Lower feed dog. Attach desired sole to BSR as instructed above.

Attach the BSR foot to the sewing machine.

Insert BSR plug into the green socket located

under the lower left corner at the back of the
machine (see sidebar).

aurora 430/440: The BSR symbol will

appear on left side of display screen, and presser foot icon will
indicate Foot #42 (BSR). Press the BSR/Balance button; Mode
1 or Mode 2 – whichever was used last – will be selected, with To Easily Locate
stitch length set at 2.0 mm (if machine has not been turned off, the BSR Socket:
settings will automatically return to the ones last used with the Try one – or both –
selected Mode). Stitch length may be adjusted from 1-4 mm. of the following tips:
• Look for its reflection – look
artista 630/640/730: The BSR screen opens automatically for the bright green! – in the
when plug is inserted into the socket. Mode 1 will automatically clear half circle on the Slide-
On Table (included with the
be selected, with stitch length set at 2 mm. Stitch length may
machine) or Clear Acrylic
be adjusted from 1-4 mm.
Sewing/Quilting Table (optional
accessory). You may need to
Select Mode 1 or Mode 2 by pressing the appropriate number
lean away from the machine
on the screen. Note: For further information, see exercises on
to see the socket's reflection.
pages 114-117. • Using the pointer finger of
your left hand, locate the socket
Activate BSR and start stitching by stepping on the foot control,
just to the left of the presser
or by unplugging the foot control and pressing the Stop/Start foot bar. With the right hand,
button. Note: A red sensor in the foot will glow when machine insert the BSR plug into the
is run in BSR mode. socket.

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BERNINA®

BERNINA® models with BSR capability only (430/440/630/640/730)

BERNINA Stitch Regulator: Mode 1
Fabric .............................. medium weight cotton, two 12” x 12” squares
Stabilizer ....................................................... thin cotton batting, 12” x 12”
............................................. temporary adhesive spray (HRFive) Notes
Needle ................................................................................ 90/14 Quilting
Thread .............................. King Tut 40 weight thread (Superior Threads)
........................................ Bottom Line thread (Superior Threads)
Presser Feet............................. BERNINA® Stitch Regulator (BSR) #42
Stitch .......................................................... straight stitch, BSR Mode 1
Stitch Length ........................................................................... 2.0-2.5 mm
Presser Foot Pressure ............................................................................ 1

Install and activate BSR; lower feed dog. Check to be sure motor speed
is set to full. Note: It is possible to stitch faster than the BSR can regulate.
Engage audio signal to alert you when you exceed the “speed limit.”
When working in BSR Mode 1, there is constant power to the needle when-
ever the motor is engaged, whether using the foot control (all models), the
Stop/Start button (430/440/630/640 only) or by pressing the Quick Reverse
Button (730 & 200 with 730 upgrade only). Rather than stopping, the needle
continues to move up and down very slowly; some stitchers prefer this mode
for leaves, tendrils, and other meandering lines.
Layer fabric & batting to make a “quilt sandwich.” Thread machine with King
Tut in needle & Bottom Line in bobbin. Place fabric under BSR foot.
Step on the foot control but do not move fabric/hands. Notice that the needle
moves up and down. Release foot control.
BSR Using Stop/Start Function
Remove foot control. Press Stop/Start button (Quick Reverse button on the
730) to engage motor. Notice that the needle moves up and down. Press the
Stop/Start button (Quick Reverse button on the 730) to stop the motor.
BSR Using Foot Control
• Using the foot control or the Stop/Start button (Quick Reverse button on
730), move the fabric in a forward and back motion (1).
• Move hands from side to side, then top to bottom, keeping the lines per-
pendicular to each other (2).
• Move hands in smooth curves from left to right (3).
• Move hands in cursive “l” shapes (4).
• Create stippling shapes – think of interconnecting puzzle pieces with evenly
sized “bumps.” Avoid “painting” yourself into a corner and/or stitching
across a previously stitched line (5).

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BERNINA Stitch Regulator: Mode 1 Sample

1. 2.

3.

5.
4.

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BERNINA®

BERNINA® models with BSR capability only (430/440/630/640/730)

BERNINA Stitch Regulator: Mode 2
Fabric .............................. medium weight cotton, two 12” x 12” squares
Stabilizer ....................................................... thin cotton batting, 12” x 12”
............................................. temporary adhesive spray (HRFive) Notes
Needle ................................................................................ 90/14 Quilting
Thread .............................. King Tut 40 weight thread (Superior Threads)
........................................ Bottom Line thread (Superior Threads)
Presser Feet............................. BERNINA® Stitch Regulator (BSR) #42
Stitch .......................................................... straight stitch, BSR Mode 2
Stitch Length ........................................................................... 2.0-2.5 mm
Presser Foot Pressure ............................................................................ 1

Install and activate BSR; lower feed dog. Check to be sure motor speed is
set to full. Note: It is possible to stitch faster than the BSR can regulate.
Engage audio signal to alert you when you exceed the “speed limit.”
When working in BSR Mode 2, the motor is engaged only when the fabric
is moved under the foot, giving the stitcher time to stop and think about the
path the needle is taking. As with Mode 1, the motor can be engaged using
the foot control or Stop/Start button (430/440/630/640 only) or Quick Reverse
button (730 & upgrade only). Note: If there is no movement for over approxi-
mately seven seconds, the BSR will automatically be deactivated.
Layer fabric & batting to make a “quilt sandwich.” Thread machine with King
Tut in needle & Bottom Line in bobbin. Place fabric under BSR foot.
Step on foot control but do not move fabric. Notice that needle moves up,
preparing machine for stitching. Begin moving fabric; motor is engaged and
begins stitching. Stop moving fabric; motor is disengaged and needle stops
moving. Release foot control.
BSR Using Stop/Start Function
Remove foot control. Press Stop/Start button (Quick Reverse button on the
730) to engage motor. Notice that the needle moves up and down. Press the
Stop/Start button (Quick Reverse button on the 730) to stop the motor.
BSR Using Foot Control
• Using foot control or Stop/Start button (Quick Reverse button on the 730),
move fabric in a forward and back motion (1).
• Move hands from side to side, then top to bottom, keeping lines Mode 1 or Mode 2?
perpendicular to each other (2). Try each mode with various
• Move hands in smooth curves from left to right (3). techniques (quilting, sashiko,
trapunto, bobbinwork, silk-
• Move hands in cursive “l” shapes (4). ribbon embroidery, etc.) to
• Create stippling shapes – think of interconnecting puzzle pieces with determine your favorite for
evenly sized “bumps.” Avoid “painting” yourself into a corner and/or each situation.
stitching across a previously stitched line (5).

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BERNINA®

BERNINA Stitch Regulator: Mode 2 Sample

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BERNINA®

BERNINA® models with zigzag BSR capability only (630/640/730)

BERNINA Stitch Regulator: Zigzag
Fabric .............................. medium weight cotton, two 12” x 12” squares
Stabilizer ....................................................... thin cotton batting, 12” x 12”
............................................. temporary adhesive spray (HRFive) Notes
Needle ................................................................................ 90/14 Quilting
Thread .............................. King Tut 40 weight thread (Superior Threads)
........................................ Bottom Line thread (Superior Threads)
Presser Feet............................. BERNINA® Stitch Regulator (BSR) #42
Stitch .......................................................................... BSR Mode 1 or 2
Stitch Length & Width ..................................................................... preset
Presser Foot Pressure ............................................................................ 1 1

Use the BSR zigzag option to easily and quickly create freehand
embroidery designs, shade or accent fabric motifs, and couch
decorative fibers. Experiment with bobbinwork and other free-motion
techniques to create stunning fabric embellishments.

Trace or draw leaf shape (1) on fabric. Layer fabric and batting to
create a “quilt sandwich.” Thread machine with King Tut in the needle
and Bottom Line in the bobbin. Place fabric under the BSR foot.

• Select straight stitch and preferred mode. Stitch the leaf shape,
tracing lines several times (2).

• Select zigzag stitch and preferred mode. Shade the left side of the
leaf (3).

Experiment with different stitch lengths and widths, making note

of your preferences.

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BERNINA Stitch Regulator: Zigzag Sample

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Applique
Fabric .......................... 2 pieces woven cotton, 6” x 6”, two colors
.............. 3” x 3” scrap of fabric in a third color for applique
Stabilizer ............................................ lightweight tear-away, 6” x 6” Notes
....................................................... HRFive spray adhesive
Notions ................................................. 12” of single fold bias tape
Needle ................................................................... 80/12 Universal Adhesive Sprays
Thread .................................................................. 50 weight cotton A variety of spray adhesive
................................ clear monofilament (“invisible” thread) are available, many specifially
designed for fabric and sewing
Presser Feet ............................... BERNINA® Clear Foot #34/34C
applications.
.................... BERNINA® Open Embroidery Foot #20/20C
............. BERNINA® Circular Embroidery Attachment #83 202 Temporary Adhesive -
............................................ bernette® zigzag/universal foot Adheres paper patterns
..................................................... bernette® satin stitch foot to fabric.
Stitches ..................................................... straight, satin, blindhem 404 Permanent Repositionable
Needle Position .................................................................... center Adhesive - Creates “sticky
notes” and other “re-stickable”
Preparation items.
Cut a heart from the 3” x 3” piece of fabric.
HRFive Adhesive Spray -
Stack 6” x 6” fabrics squares, all right side up: Water-soluble; washes out
- stabilizer on bottom, completely. Can be used as
- one fabric in the middle, a repositionable spray; item
- the other fabric on top. stays sticky, but can be moved
and bonded to another surface.
Works great on paper, and as
BERNINA® bernette® a no-show adhesive on vellum.
Mark a point on the top layer; Draw a 4” circle in the center of
this will be the center of the the top layer. 505 Temporary Adhesive -
Especially good for applique
reverse applique circle.
and quilt basting; does not
gum-up needles.

606 Fusible Adhesive -

Bonds with heat; for iron-on
patches and appliques.

HRZero Adhesive Remover -

Removes adhesive residue
from plastic, metal, wood, glass,
stone, and ceramics.

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Applique - continued
Circular Reverse Applique
Owner’s manual: _____
BERNINA® bernette®
Attach Circular Embroidery Attach zigzag/universal foot
Attachment #83 to the machine to the machine. Select straight
arm. Remove rubber cap from
pin. Place layered fabric (stabilizer
stitch. Stitch along the drawn
line, around the entire circle.
Notes:
down) over attachment, aligning
mark over pin. Push fabric down Overlap ends ½”.
over pin, taking care not to pierce
fingers. Replace cap on pin. Remove fabric from machine.
Check size of circle by turning
fabric around pin. Adjust setting
Using sharp scissors, carefully
as needed so edge of circle is trim away the topmost layer of
within fabric square. fabric from within the circle.
Attach Clear Foot #34/34C to
machine. Select straight stitch. Select a satin stitch (zigzag
Sew, letting the fabric turn around stitch with a stitch length of
the pin as it feeds under the foot. approximately 0.3mm). Adjust
Overlap ends ½”. the stitch width to 3mm. Attach
Carefully remove fabric from satin stitch foot to machine.
attachment without moving pin. Stitch around circle, covering
Using sharp scissors, trim away the previous stitching and the
topmost fabric layer from within raw edge of the cut fabric.
circle. Replace fabric on pin,
making sure pin pierces through Overlap slightly at end; pull
the same point in center of circle. thread tails to back and knot.
Select satin stitch (zigzag with
SL of approximately 0.3mm).
Select square stitch (or other
Adjust SW to 3mm. Attach Open decorative stitch). Sew around
Embroidery Foot #20/20C. Stitch the circle one more, slightly
around circle, covering previous outside the previous stitching.
stitching and raw edge of fabric.
Overlap stitching slightly at end;
pull thread tails to back and knot.
Move point of attachment one
notch away from needle. Select
heart stitch (or other decorative
stitch). Sew around circle once
more; hearts form just outside
satin-stitched circle.
Remove attachment.

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Applique - continued
Blanket Stitch Applique
(BERNINA® electronic & bernette® 65/80e/90e machines only)
Fuse heart (or other applique shape) to base fabric as desired, using Notes
606 fusible spray adhesive.

Thread needle with cotton thread. Attach BERNINA® Open Embroidery

Foot #20/20C / bernette® satin stitch foot to machine. Select blanket
stitch (adjust width to 3mm if necessary); mirror image if necessary so
the perpendicular stitches point to the left. Move the needle to the far
right; line the edge of the applique up with the inside of the right toe of
the presser foot.

Stitch along all sides of the fused applique shape, with the straight
portion of the stitch falling on the raw edge and the “points” stitching into
the applique. At corners, stop with the needle down in the fabric, using
the Needle Stop Down function if available. Lower the feed dog, using
the Free Hand System if available. Stitch; because the feed dog is
lowered, the machine stitches in place, creating a handsewn look at the
inner corner. Use the Free Hand System to raise the presser foot. Pivot
fabric. Lower the presser foot, re-engage feed dog, and continue sewing.

Pivot around curves using the Free Hand System (if available) and
Needle Stop Down function, keeping the straight portion of the stitch
against the edge of the applique.

If desired, use the triple blanket stitch for a portion of the applique.

BERNINA® bernette®
Select quilting blindstitch (or a Select the blindstitch; adjust width
regular blindstitch with width of to 2mm and length to 1.5mm.
0.5mm). Attach Open Embroidery Attach the satin stitch foot to the
Foot #20/20C to machine. Move machine.
needle position to far right.

Hand-Look Applique
Arrange bias strip on fabric as desired, creating a soft curve. Pin strip in
place.

Thread needle with monofilament thread. Applique strip in place, guiding

the foot so that the straight part of the stitch sews “in-the-ditch”, while the
zigzag portion barely bites into the folded edge of the applique.

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Applique Sampler

bernette® 55 65 80e 90e

Square 13 9 10 11
Stitch
Blanket -- 13 14 15
Stitch
Hand-Look 4 5 12 13
Applique

BERNINA® 1008 220 230PE 240 430 440QE 630 640 730
Heart or 8 32 46 55 76 99 413 413 413
Scallop Stitch
Blanket -- 28 25 41 50 45 329 329 329
Stitch
Hand-Look 3 7 7 7 52 47 331 331 331
Applique

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Surface Embellishment
Fabric ................................................................sturdy muslin, 6” x 6”
....................... assorted 2½” x 9” strips (8-10 different fabrics)
Notions ................................................. cord, yarn or other round trim Notes
.............................................................. small, stranded beads
...................... narrow ribbon, 5mm wide (9mm for 640 & 730)
Needle ...................................................... 80/12 Embroidery or Sharp
Thread .................................... plain & variegated embroidery threads
......................................................... heavy decorative threads
Presser Foot ................................... BERNINA® Patchwork Foot #37
......................... BERNINA® Open Embroidery Foot #20/20C
........................................ BERNINA® Braiding Foot #21/12C
............................. BERNINA® Bulky Overlock Foot #12/12C
...... BERNINA® Black Latch or Supplementary Bobbin Case
.............................................................. bernette® quilting foot
......................................................... bernette® satin stitch foot
.............................................................. bernette® cording foot
.......................... bernette® 65/80e/90e only: extra bobbin case
Stitches .................................................. various stitches, as indicated
Needle Position ......................................................................... center

Preparation: Crazy Patchwork

Cut a 5-sided shape from one patchwork strip. Place right side up
in center of muslin square. Select another patchwork strip; place
right sides together with center patch, matching one raw edge. Stitch,
stopping at the end of the first patch. Flip open; press.

Select a second patchwork strip. Place along the next edge of the
center patch, over the previously stitched strip. Seam; flip; press.
Trim excess fabric from underneath the strip.

Continue adding strips in this manner, working in a circular direction

around the center patch, until the entire base fabric is covered.
Straight stitch close to the outer edges of the muslin base fabric;
trim excess fabric from around the edges of the square.

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Surface Embellishment - continued

Decorative Stitching
Attach BERNINA® Open Embroidery Foot #20/20C / bernette® Owner’s manual: _____
satin stitch foot to the machine. Thread needle with variegated
embroidery thread.

Select an open floral or honeycomb stitch. Sew over one of the

Notes:
patchwork seams, centering the stitch over the seam. Select a
different stitch; sew another seam. Embellish seams as desired.

Bobbinwork
(BERNINA® electronic & bernette® 65/80e/90e machines only)
Note: Use extra bobbin case only! Do NOT adjust your regular
bobbin case!

Wind a bobbin half full of heavy decorative thread, such as

Designer 6 or Pearl Crown Rayon. Insert bobbin into Black Latch
Bobbin Case (or an extra bobbin case); adjust (loosen, in most
cases) tension screw as necessary.

Select a feather stitch. Place patchwork right side down under

presser foot, with the muslin backing facing up. Stitch along one
of the unembellished seam lines. When finished, turn block right
side up; the bobbin thread is visible on the right side of the block
and resembles hand stitched embroidery. Use a hand-sewing
needle to bring the decorative thread to the back of the work;
secure thread tails.

BERNINA® only: Repeat, using the entredeux stitch. The

bobbinwork on the fabric surface forms small “roses”.

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Surface Embellishment - continued

Couching
BERNINA® Ribbon bernette® Ribbon Notes
Attach Open Embroidery Foot Attach the zigzag/universal foot
#20/20C to the machine. to the machine.

Select a stipple, floral, or other Select a blanket, zigzag, or

decorative stitch. Place ribbon other decorative stitch. Place
over a seam; stitch in place, the ribbon over a seam; stitch
centering ribbon between the in place, sewing through the
toes of the foot. center of the ribbon.

BERNINA® Yarn bernette® Heavy Threads

Attach Braiding Foot #21/12C to Attach cording foot to machine.
machine. Select a yarn or trim; Select three heavy decorative
thread through opening in foot. threads; thread through the
grooves in the front of the foot.
Select a ladder, double overlock,
or universal stitch. Couch yarn or Select a sewn out zigzag stitch.
trim over a seam, centering yarn Couch the decorative threads
over the seam. over a seam.

BERNINA® only: Beads: Select a triple zigzag stitch; adjust length

and width to 5mm. Place a strand of beads under the groove in the
sole of Bulky Overlock Foot #12/12C.

Begin stitching; adjust stitch length so stitches fall between beads.

Continue stitching, couching beads over one of the patchwork seams.

bernette® 55 65 80e 90e

Honeycomb 9 12 S4 S4
Blanket -- 13 14 15
Square 13 9 10 11
Scallop 12 8 11 12
Universal -- 7 6 6
Triple Zigzag 8 14 S3 S3
Sewn Out Zigzag 5 4 4 4

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Surface Embellishment Sampler

BERNINA® 1008 220 230PE 240 430 440QE 630 640 730
Floral -- 43 65 88 41 84 130 106 106
Feather -- 45 28 44 53 48 332 332 332
Entredeux -- 41 59 76 118 147 701 701 701
Stipple -- 26 23 39 48 43 327 327 327
Ladder -- -- 60 77 119 148 702 702 702
Universal 4 17 20 23 24 26 15 15 15
Triple Zigzag 10 6 6 6 6 6 7 7 7

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Class 5
Product Reference List
More Decorative Techniques
‰ Feet-ures, Volumes 1, 2, and 3 ‰ BERNINA® Iron
‰ BERNINA® Embroidery Foot #6 ‰ HRFive Spray Adhesive
‰ BERNINA® Tailor Tack Foot #7 ‰ Spring Hoop or BERNINA® Darning Ring
‰ BERNINA® Edgestitch Foot #10 or (for mending)
‰ BERNINA® Edgestitch Foot #10C ‰ Thread Stand
‰ BERNINA® Bulky Overlock Foot #12 or ‰ Blunt Point Scissors (for lace)
‰ BERNINA® Bulky Overlock Foot #12C ‰ Cotton Batting
‰ BERNINA® Open Embroidery Foot #20 or ‰ Fusible Interfacing
‰ BERNINA® Open Embroidery Foot #20C
‰ BERNINA® Braiding Foot #21 Decorative Threads
‰ BERNINA® Freemotion Quilting Foot #29 or ‰ Metallic
‰ BERNINA® Freemotion Quilting Foot #29C ‰ Rayon
‰ BERNINA® Clear Foot #34 or ‰ Cotton
‰ BERNINA® Clear Foot #34C ‰ Polyester
‰ BERNINA® Patchwork Foot #37
‰ BERNINA® Clear Foot #39 “Invisible” Monofilament Thread (0.004 mm)
‰ BERNINA® Stitch Regulator (BSR) #42 ‰ Smoke
‰ BERNINA® Walking Foot #50 ‰ Clear
‰ BERNINA® Leather Roller Foot #55
‰ BERNINA® Patchwork Foot with Guide #57 Couching Threads
‰ BERNINA® Circular Embroidery Attachment #83 ‰ YLI Candlelight
‰ Secondary Bobbincase (Black Latch) ‰ YLI Pearl Crown Rayon
‰ bernette® Quilting Foot ‰ YLI Designer 6
‰ bernette® Satin Stitch Foot ‰ Designer Threads (QRI)
‰ bernette® Cording Foot
‰ bernette® Darning/Embroidery Foot Needles
‰ bernette® Walking Foot ‰ Single Wing
‰ bernette® Zipper Foot ‰ Double Wing
‰ bernette® Blindhem Foot ‰ Quilting
‰ Embroidery

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Class 6
Stitch Manipulations
Class Overview
Function & Memory Basics Special artista Features
(All Models with Memory Capabilities) • Setup Program
- Screen Contrast
Memory – Basic Information - Start Screen
• Accessing Memory - Sewing Light
• Programming - Motor Speed
• Editing Memory - Thread Tension
• Saving & Leaving Memory - Functions
• Memory Capacity - Touch Screen
• Viewing Memory Contents - Software Version Information
- Hoop Adjustment
1 Function Sampler
- Auto Thread Cutter
• Motor Speed
- Messages & Audio Signals
• Needle Stop Up/Down Adjustment
- Stitch Length, Width, Needle Position
• Continuous Reverse
- Personal Program
• Long Stitch
- Portal Provider Settings (730 only)
• Pattern Begin/Repeat/End
- Return to Basic Settings
• Stitch Selection by Number
- esc & Leave Setup
• Securing Function
- Thread Brand
• Mirror Image
• Tutorial
• Pattern Extend
• Creative Consultant
• Balance
• Needle Limitation/Security Program
• Stitch Counter
2 Programming & Editing Sampler
3 Memory Sampler This class is formatted for owners of the
following BERNINA® sewing machine models:
4 Buttonhole Memory
• activa 220
The following exercises & information are for artista • activa 230PE
machines, but may be of interest to other machine owners. • activa 240
artista Memory Samplers • aurora 430
5 Memory/Combi Mode Sampler • aurora 440QE
• Creating & Saving a Stitch Combination • artista 630
• Inserting Stitches • artista 640
• Altering & Deleting Stitches
• artista 730 & 200 with 730 upgrade installed
6 Memory/Sub-Divider 1 Sampler

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Memory – Basic Information

activa & aurora artista 630/640/730

Accessing Memory
Owner’s manual page ______
Accessing Memory
Owner’s manual page ______
Notes
• Press the external mem button • Touch the Combi-Mode symbol.
on the front of the machine. The Stitch Altering Area (SAA)
• Memory cursor appears at left, appears on screen, ready for
the number of available spaces stitch input.
blinks, and the word mem
appears on screen. Programming
Owner’s manual page ______
Programming • Select desired stitch; it is
Owner’s manual page ______ automatically entered into the
• Select desired stitch; the stitch Stitch Altering Area. Notice that
number appears on screen. the background of the selected
• Touch the mem↵ ↵ button; the stitch is BLUE and that there is
selected stitch is programmed. a RED cursor along the lower
The number of available spaces edge of the selected stitch.
appears on screen. • Continue programming in this
• Continue programming in this manner.
manner.
• Scroll through programmed • The following parameters can
memory using the arrows on be altered separately for EACH
either side of the mem button. STITCH within the combination:
• Altered stitches can be saved • Stitch Length
in memory; including length, • Stitch Width
width, and needle position. • Needle Position
• Delete all unwanted stitches • Tension
before programming. • Balance
• Long Stitch
• Pattern Extend 2-5x
• Vertical Mirror Image
• Horizontal Mirror Image
• Securing Function
• Sub-Divider 1 (640/730 only)
• Sub-Divider 2 (730 only)

• The following parameters can

be altered for ENTIRE STITCH
COMBINATION (as one unit):
• Motor Speed
• Vertical Mirror Image

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Memory – Basic Information – continued

activa & aurora artista 630/640/730
Editing Memory Editing Memory
Owner’s manual page ______ Owner’s manual page ______
• Programmed stitches can • Touch screen to activate the
be deleted or overwritten. stitch you wish to alter or delete
activa 220/230PE/240 only: (selected stitch will turn BLUE).
• Make desired alterations.
Changes can be made to the
stitch properties prior to and/or Note: All alterations, insertions
after entering the stitch into and deletions will always affect
memory. area above the cursor (red line).
• Scroll to the stitch you wish Saving and Leaving Memory
to change or delete. Owner’s manual page ______
• Select the stitch you wish to artista 730 only
replace it with and press the • Touch Multi-Function button.
mem↵ ↵ button. The new stitch Select Save Combination; save
is saved over the original one. stitch combination in a drawer.
• All stored programs can be
Or – press delete and the stitch
recalled at any time – even
is cleared. after the machine is turned off.
Saving and Leaving Memory artista 630/640 only
Owner’s manual page ______ • Touch the Save icon; save the
• To save the contents, simply stitch combination in a drawer.
touch the center mem button. • All stored programs can be
recalled at any time – even
All entries are saved and the
after the machine is turned off.
memory closes.
• All stored programs can be Memory Capacity
recalled at any time – even Owner’s manual page ______
after the machine is turned off. • Combi Mode
• 50 memory “drawers” hold
Memory Capacity stitch formations; each can
be partitioned using memory
Owner’s manual page ______
sub-dividers.
• The total capacity is 30 spaces
for activa models, 60 spaces Viewing Memory Contents
for the aurora 430, and 90 for Owner’s manual page ______
the aurora 440QE (meaning • Method 1: Use arrows to scroll
through Stitch Altering Area (SAA).
30/60/90 individual stitch
• Method 2: Touch Multi-Function
patterns) button. Select Preview option.
Touch Binocular symbol to see
Viewing Memory Contents Sewing View. Stitch combination
Owner’s manual page ______ appears on screen, including all
• Use the arrows on either side of alterations. Touch esc to return
mem to scroll through memory. to previous screen.

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Function Sampler
This section is designed to demonstrate some of the stitch-altering and
memory functions of your sewing machine. These functions enable a group
of stitches to be selected, altered, manipulated, combined and/or stored.
Notes
Motor Speed
Owner’s Manual pages ________
• Reduces sewing speed.
• Especially useful when stitching with delicate threads.
Needle Stop Up/Down
Owner’s Manual pages ________
• activas:
- machine stops with needle up
- press and release button to move needle down or up
- press and hold button to set Needle Position down or up
• auroras & artista 630/640
- press and release button to move needle down or up
- press and hold button to set Needle Position down or up
• artista 730
- press button; arrow appears on screen
- machine stops with needle in up or down position
• Foot Control (optional for activas)
- press heel; needle moves to opposite position
- tap toe; machine sews one stitch
Continuous Reverse
Owner’s Manual pages ________
• activas: “double-click” Quick Reverse button
• auroras: press and hold Quick Reverse button; wait for beep
• artistas: press Continuous Reverse button
Programming
Owner’s Manual pages ________
• activa & aurora:
- push button method
- view by scrolling through memory bar one-by-one
• artista:
- touch-screen method
- view on-screen
- stitches can be edited individually

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Function Sampler - continued

BERNINA® 220 230PE 240 430 440QE 630 640 730

Motor Speeds 2 2 2 slide slide slide slide 4
control control control control
Needle Up/Down Function Yes Yes Yes Yes Yes Yes Yes Yes

Needle Up/Down Foot Control (opt) (opt) (opt) Yes Yes Yes Yes Yes

Continuous Reverse Yes Yes Yes Yes Yes Yes Yes Yes

Long Stitch -- -- -- -- -- -- Yes Yes

Long Term Memory 30 30 30 60 90 Combi- Combi- Combi-

Spaces Spaces Spaces Spaces Spaces Mode Mode Mode
Pattern Begin -- -- -- Yes Yes Yes Yes Yes

Pattern Repeat -- -- -- -- -- Yes Yes Yes

Pattern Extend -- -- -- -- -- Yes Yes Yes

Pattern End -- Yes Yes Yes Yes Yes Yes Yes

Securing Function -- -- -- Yes Yes Yes Yes Yes

Right/Left Mirror Image -- -- Yes Yes Yes Yes Yes Yes

Up/Down Mirror Image -- -- -- -- Yes Yes Yes Yes

Balance Function (knob) (knob) (knob) Yes Yes Yes Yes Yes

Security Program -- -- -- -- -- Yes Yes Yes

Stitch Counter -- -- -- -- -- -- -- Yes

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Function Sampler
Fabric ...................................................... heavy muslin, 12” x 12”
Stabilizer ...................................................... tear-away as needed
Needle ................................................90/14 Embroidery or Sharp Notes
Thread .............................................. 30 weight cotton embroidery
Presser Feet ................................................ Clear Foot #34/#34C
........................................ Open Embroidery Foot #20/20C
...................Sideways Motion Foot #40C (185 & 730 only)
Stitches ...................................................................... as indicated
Needle Position ......................................................... as indicated

Preparation
• Using HRFive spray adhesive, adhere stabilizer to the muslin.

• Mark muslin for eleven rows of stitching, spaced approximately

1” apart. When stitching, align the back of the presser foot with
the top edge of the fabric before beginning each row. Note: See
drawing on page 135.

Row 1
Motor Speed
• Select straight stitch #1; sew down the 9" width of the fabric.

• Touching the Motor Speed symbol or the Slide Speed Control,

change speeds as you sew.

• When stitching is complete, touch the Motor Speed symbol or

move the Slide Speed Control until full sewing speed is active
again. Note: Touching the external CLR button will not restore
the Motor Speed to full; this must be done manually.

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Function Sampler - continued

Row 2
Needle Stop Adjustment
Notes
activa aurora & artista
• Stitch part of the row; stop. • Engage the Needle Stop
Press and hold the Needle Stop Up/Down function so needle will
Up/Down button to lower the stop DOWN in the fabric. Sew
needle into the fabric. Press part of the row; stop. Using the
and hold the button again to heel of your foot,
raise the needle to its highest tap base of foot control once to
position. raise the needle.

• Continue sewing; stop again. • Continue sewing; stop again.

Notice that the machine stops Notice that the machine stops
instantly, without instantly, without coasting.
coasting.
• When stitching is complete,
touch the Needle Stop Adjust-
ment symbol to engage the
Needle Stop UP feature.

Row 3
Continuous Reverse
• Select running stitch #4; sew approximately 3". Using the Free Hand
System (FHS), raise the presser foot and move the fabric to the left
about ¼”.
• Select the Continuous Reverse function and continue stitching back
to the beginning of the row. To access Continuous Reverse on the
activa 220/230PE/240, “double-click” on the Quick Reverse button.
On the artista 640 and 730, use the Automatic Thread Cutter to clip
the threads.
• Reposition the fabric approximately 1" below the previous stitching.
Touch the Continuous Reverse function again to deactivate it. Select
stitch #1; sew about 3-4" more; stop.
• Engage the Continuous Reverse function again. Sew. Notice that the
reverse stitches are the same length as the forward ones and that the
machine tracks perfectly.
• Clip threads. Touch external CLR button to turn off the function.

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Function Sampler - continued

Row 4
Long Stitch Function (artista 640/730 only)
Notes
artista 640 & 730
• Select stitch #1; sew for approximately 1”.

• Engage the Long Stitch function and sew another 2- 3”; adjust
stitch length to 5mm and continue to sew.

• Before finishing the row of stitching, touch the external CLR

button to cancel the alterations and turn off the Long Stitch
function. Finish sewing the row. This is an effective way to
secure basting stitches.

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Function Sampler - continued

Row 5
Pattern Begin,
Pattern Repeat 1-9x, Notes
Pattern End
activa & aurora artista
• Select the satin stitch scallop or • Select stitch #602. When a
satin stitch heart stitch: stitch is selected, the Pattern
220* ................ 32 Begin function is automatically
230PE* .......... 48/46 activated.
240 ................ 58/55
430 ................ 88/76
• Sew about 1½ stitch patterns;
440QE .......... 102/99
* Pattern Repeat is not available touch the Pattern Begin icon,
on the activa 220 & 230PE. move fabric forward, and stitch
another 1½ patterns.
• Begin sewing, then press the
Pattern End button. Continue • Touch the Pattern Begin icon
sewing; machine will stop when
and Pattern Repeat 3x. Move
stitch pattern is complete. Move
fabric forward about ½”. fabric slightly forward and stitch
until machine stops. On the
• Press the mem button to open artista 730, notice that while
Memory. you stitch, the Pattern Repeat
• Select pattern stitch and press function counts down the
mem↵ ↵ to enter it into memory. number of pattern repeats left
Repeat two times for a total of to sew.
three pattern stitches in Memory.
• Begin sewing again; while
• Begin sewing; machine automati- stitching, touch the external
cally starts at the beginning of the
Pattern End button (above
programmed stitch sequence.
Quick Reverse button on artista
• activa: Continue stitching. Press 730) or Pattern End function
Pattern End; machine will auto- (located above sliding speed
matically stop when entire stitch control on artista 640). When
sequence (3 scallops or hearts) selected, Pattern End stops
is complete. the machine at the end of the
• aurora: Continue stitching. Press current stitch pattern.
Pattern End; machine will auto-
matically stop at end of current • Touch external CLR button
stitch. Press and hold Pattern End to cancel the active functions.
button until machine beeps. Sew;
machine will automatically stop at
end of entire stitch sequence.

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Function Sampler - continued

Row 6
Stitch Selection by Number, Securing Functions
Notes
aurora artista 730 only
• Select the star stitch: • Use Stitch Selection by
220* ............. n/a Number to select #514;
230PE* ........ n/a engage Pattern Repeat 1x.
240* ............. n/a
• Attach Sideways Motion
430 ............. 126
Foot #40 to artista. Sew.
440QE ........ 155
* These functions are not
Sideways motion motifs
available on the activa. must be guided carefully;
do not allow fabric to turn
• Attach Open Embroidery while stitching.
Foot #20 or Clear Foot #34
to machine. • Engage Securing function
and stitch motif again. Three
• Engage Pattern End, press- small stitches are sewn at
ing button until machine the beginning and end of
beeps. Sew; machine auto-
the motif. Rows of stitching
matically stops after stitching
can also be secured at the
one star.
beginning and end.
• Engage Securing function
and sew until machine stops. All artistas:
Three small stitches are • Use Stitch Selection by
sewn at beginning and end Number to select #711;
of motif. Rows of stitching engage Pattern Repeat 4x
can also be secured at and Securing function. Begin
beginning and end. sewing. Before reaching end
• Open mem and enter three of row, stop and reengage
star stitches. Make sure the Securing function to
Pattern End and Securing secure stitching at the end
functions are still engaged. of the row.

• Stitch; sew until machine • Touch external CLR button

stops. Note that securing to cancel active functions.
stitches are sewn at the
beginning of the first and end
of the last/third stitch pattern.
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Function Sampler - continued

Row 7
Mirror Image
Notes
activa 240 & aurora 430/440 artista
• Select the blanket stitch: • Select #907; engage Pattern
220* ............. 28 Repeat 1x. Stitch one turtle.
230PE* ........ 25
240 .............. 41 • Engage Right/Left Mirror
430 .............. 50 Image; sew one turtle.
440QE ......... 45
* Mirror Image is not available • Disengage Right/Left Mirror
on the activa 220 & 230PE. Image and engage Up/Down
Mirror Image; sew one turtle.
• Sew one row across fabric.
• Engage both Right/Left and
• Engage Right/Left Mirror Up/Down Mirror Image; sew
Image and sew a second row one turtle.
next to the first.
• Touch external CLR button
to cancel active functions.

Row 8 (artista only)

Pattern Extend 2-5x
• Select #414; engage Pattern Repeat 1x. Sew one stitch pattern.
• Engage Pattern Extend 2x; sew one stitch pattern.
• Engage Pattern Extend 3x; sew one stitch pattern.
• Engage Pattern Extend 4x; sew one stitch pattern.
• Engage Pattern Extend 5x; sew one stitch pattern.
Note: As the stitch pattern is lengthened, the stitch density is
maintained. Your artista also limits the Pattern Extend capacity
of stitches to ensure the best results for your sewing projects.
• Touch the external CLR button to cancel active functions.

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Function Sampler - continued

Row 9
Balance
The Balance function is generally reserved for “fine tuning” the appearance Notes
of a stitch, as is sometimes required based on differences in fabrics and
threads. Balance, however, can also be used as a creative tool to manipu-
late the look of a stitch. On the artista 630/640/730, for example, it can be
used to alter the appearance of stipple stitch #327.
activa & aurora artista
• activa: Select double overlock • Select stitch #327; sew.
stitch #8; stitch about 1½”.
Adjust balance knob toward the • For a less compact stipple
“open” symbol; sew another 1½”. stitch, engage Pattern Extend
Adjust balance knob toward the 2x and adjust stitch length
“closed” symbol; sew 1½” more. to 3mm. Sew. The Balance
Return balance knob to normal. function can be used to alter
the stitch even more. Turn Stitch
• aurora: Select double overlock Length knob until 5 is selected.
stitch #8; sew about 1½”. Touch
Balance button; use Needle • In this exercise we want to
Position buttons to adjust use the Balance function to
balance. Touch > to open stitch, manipulate the appearance
< to close stitch. Adjust balance of a stitch, not to correct it.
to 2; sew another 1½” . Adjust Adjust the balance as indicated
balance to -2; sew another 1½”. in the box below for your
Return balance to normal. artista. Touch OK and stitch.

Balance Function
artista only
Note: On artista models, balance affects only the selected stitch.
Select Balance function. Two pictures appear on screen, showing the
stitch in its original form. Using the Stitch Length knob, adjust the stitch
image on the right side of the screen so it looks exactly like the stitch
sample on your fabric. Touch OK; the artista 730 automatically corrects
the stitch while sewing, calculating the proper balance to achieve the
appearance of the original stitch (left screen).

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Function Sampler - continued

Row 10 (artista only)
Security Program (artista 630/640/730)
Notes
artista 640 & 730 only
• Insert a 2.0 Double needle into the artista. Thread with two colors,
done in each needle eye.

• Select stitch #406 and Pattern Repeat 2x. Sew.

• Activate Security Program; select Double Needle 8.0. Touch OK. Sew.

• Repeat for Double Needle 6.0.

artista 630/640/730
• Continue the process above for the remaining Double Needle options:
4.0, 3.0, 2.0, and 1.0.

• When all Double Needle stitching is complete, touch the CLR button.
Notice that this does NOT clear the Security Program.

• Turn your artista off. Turn back on. Notice that the Security Program
is still active, and that a message appears on the screen to remind
you of this.

• The Security Program can only be deactivated by selecting the

Security Program and manually selecting the Single Needle and 9mm
Stitch Plate options. Confirm changes by pressing OK.

Security Program
The Security Program of the
artista 630/640/730 safely
restricts the sideways motion of
the needle when using Double,
Triple, and Wing needles. The
Security Program also restricts
needle movement when using
a Double Wing needle, or the
Straight Stitch or 5mm Stitch
Plates. When active, the Security
Program affect ALL stitches,
not just the selected stitch.

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Function Sampler - continued

Row 11
Stitch Counter Sewing (artista 730 only)
Notes
The Stitch Counter function of the artista 730 is not only for
darning and buttonholes . It can also be used to sew multiple
copies of the same line of stitching, each precisely the same
length.

A variety of stitches can be sewn using the Stitch Counter

function. Several are found in the Practical stitch menu, such
as Zigzag and Blindstitch. Others include the Blanket and
Double Blanket stitches from the Quilting stitch menu.

• Draw three parallel lines on the fabric, ½” apart. Select stitch

#329. Select the Stitch Counter function. Stitch along the first
marked line. When desired length is sewn, press Quick
Reverse; the machine stops at the end of the current stitch
pattern. The line of stitches is now programmed.

• Move the fabric to the beginning of the second marked line.

Sew. The artista 730 automatically stops at the end of the
programmed line of stitches.

• Stitch the programmed seam again, this time on the third line.

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Function Sampler

Row 1
Motor Speed

Row 2
Needle Stop Up/Down

Row 3
Continuous Reverse

Row 4 (artista 640/730 only)

Long Stitch

Row 5
Pattern Begin/End

Row 6
Select by Number
& Securing Stitch

Row 7
Mirror Image

Row 8
Pattern Extend

Row 9
Balance

Row 10 (artista only)

Security Function

Row 11 (artista 730 only)

Stitch Counter

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Programming & Editing

Fabric ............................... two pieces heavy muslin, each 6” x 8”
Stabilizer ...................................................... tear-away as needed
Needle ................................................90/14 Embroidery or Sharp Notes
Thread .............................................. 30 weight cotton embroidery
Presser Feet ................................................ Clear Foot #34/#34C
Stitches ...................................................................... as indicated
Needle Position ......................................................... as indicated

Preparation
• Place muslin squares together. If needed, insert a layer of stabi-
lizer between the layers.
• Draw four parallel lines on the fabric, about 1” apart.

Row #1
• Select the Alphabet button.
• Program BERNANA and the date in block letters.
• Select Pattern End 1x (not available on activa 220) and stitch.

Row #2
• Edit, changing the first “A” to an “I” to spell BERNINA.
• Select Pattern End 1x (not available on activa 220) and stitch.

Row #3 (not activa 220)

• Clear memory.
• Program the indicated stitch sequence.
• Engage Pattern End 1x and the Securing function (if available).
• Stitch.

Row #4 (not activa 220/230PE)

• Clear memory.
• Select the heart stitch; enter into memory one time.
• Engage mirror image and enter the heart stitch into memory
again (one time).
• Sew a row across the fabric.

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Programming & Editing Sampler

Row 1

Row 2

Row 3

Row 4

BERNINA® 220 230PE 240 430 440QE 630 640 730

Row #3 #50, 1x #64, 1x #84, 1x #126, 1x #155, 1x #711, 1x #711, 1x #711, 1x
Stitch #43, 3x #65, 3x #88, 3X #130, 1x #159, 1x #717, 1x #717, 1x #717, 1x
Combination #50, 1x #64, 1x #84, 1x #126, 1x #155, 1x #711, 1x #711, 1x #711, 1x

Row #4 -- -- #55 #76 #99 #413 #413 #413

Heart Stitch

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Memory Sampler
Fabric ...................................................................heavy muslin, 8” x 8”
Stabilizer ................................................................ tear-away as needed
Needle ........................................................ 90/14 Embroidery or Sharp Notes
........................................................................................... Wing
................................................................................ Double/Twin
Thread ...................................................... 30 weight cotton embroidery
Presser Feet.......................................................... Clear Foot #34/#34C
Stitches.................................................................................as indicated
Needle Position .................................................................... as indicated

Preparation
• Before stitching this exercise, read the information completely and
stitch the Programming & Editing exercise from the previous page.
• Sew out stitches on test muslin first.
• If needed, insert a layer of stabilizer between the layers of muslin.
• Draw guide lines before sewing rows of stitches.
• Sampler can be laid out as shown, or you may arrange it as desired.
• Add or delete rows as needed to create the desired look.

Row #1
• Insert Wing needle. Sew a row of stitch indicated in chart.
• Note the hemstitch effect created by the “wings” of the needle.
Row #2
• Change back to single needle. Program sequence: leaf 1x, star 3x,
leaf 1x. Sew one repeat.
Row #3
• Program the indicated stitch sequece. Sew one group.
Row #4
• Insert Double needle. Sew a row of stitch indicated in chart.
Row #5
• Program name and date in Block letters. Sew one group.
Row #6 (not activa 220/230PE)
• Program two hearts, engaging Right/Left Mirror Image for the second
one. Sew a row of alternating hearts across fabric.
Row #7 (not activa 220/230PE)
• Program as follows: star 1x, engage Right/Left Mirror Image, leaf 1x,
clear Mirror Image, leaf 1x, re-engage Mirror image, leaf 1x, star 1x.

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Memory Sampler

Row 1
with Wing Needle

Row 2

Row 3

Row 4
with Double Needle

Row 5

Row 6

Row 7

BERNINA® 220 230PE 240 430 440QE 630 640 730

Row #1 #41 #59 #76 #118 #147 #701 #701 #701
(entredeux/honeycomb)
Row #2 #43 #65 #88 #126 #155 #605 #605 #605
(leaf/star) #50 #64 #84 #130 #159 #711 #711 #711
Row #3 #50 #64 #84 #126 #155 #711 #711 #711
(star/check) #35 #50 #51 #69 #92 #405 #405 #405
Row #4 #45 #28 #44 #53 #48 #332 #332 #332
(feather)
Row #6 -- -- #55 #76 #99 #413 #413 #413
(hearts)
Row #7 -- -- #84 #126 #155 #711 #711 #711
(star/scallop) -- -- #29 #39 #79 #122 #122 #122

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Buttonhole Memory
Fabric .................................................................. heavy flannel, 6” x 8”
Stabilizer ........................................... 1” x 8” strip of Poly Mesh stabilizer
Needle ........................................................ 90/14 Embroidery or Sharp Notes
Thread ...................................................... 30 weight cotton embroidery
Presser Feet...................... Automatic Buttonhole Foot with Slide #3A/C
Buttonhole ............................................................................as indicated

Short Term Memory

• Fold fabric in half to 3” x 8”
• Space buttonhole markings evenly across the fabric.
• Select the standard buttonhole (see chart) and attach Automatic
Buttonhole Foot with Slide #3A/C to the machine.
• Sew the first bead; stop at the desired length and press the Quick
Reverse button.
• The machine will automatically sew the rest of the buttonhole and stop
at the end after sewing a few securing stitches.

• After the buttonhole is complete, the word auto appears on the screen,
indicating that the buttonhole is programmed in short term memory.
• All subsequent buttonholes will be sewn in this programmed size until
the machine is turned off or a different buttonhole is programmed over
this one.
• Sew a second buttonhole.

Long Term Memory (activa 220/230/240 & aurora 430/440)

Note: Only one buttonhole may be saved in Long Term Memory on the
activa 220/230/240 and aurora 430/440.
• Press mem↵ ↵ (after the buttonhole has been programmed as above).
• To test, turn machine off and wait 60 seconds. Turn machine back on.
• Select the standard buttonhole and press the mem button.
• Sew the buttonhole on the third line.
Note: To clear a saved buttonhole, a new one must be programmed
over the previous one.

Long Term Memory (artista 630/640/730 only)

• Select the Stitch Altering Area (SAA). Select Save Settings.
• To test, turn machine off and wait 60 seconds. Turn machine on.
• Select the buttonhole, touch the on-screen measuring icon, press OK.
• Sew the buttonhole on the third line. Note: All exercises in the rest
Note: To clear a saved buttonhole, a new one must be programmed of this workbook are for artista
over the previous one. sewing machines only.

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Buttonhole Memory Sample

BERNINA® 220 230PE 240 430 440QE 630 640 730

Standard #10 #10 #10 #10 #10 #51 #51 #51
Buttonhole

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Stitch Altering Area

Note: to access, touch SAA; pop-up menu appears on screen

Use the Stitch Altering Area to:

• Permanently set stitches to suit your personal preferences
Notes
• Create a personal menu of stitches, your Personal Program,
including your favorite settings, all adjusted to suit to your
personal preferences:

The following settings can be modified permanently and/or

modified and stored in your Personal Program:
Stitch Length
Stitch Width
Needle Position
Tension (artista 640 & 730 only)
Balance
Vertical Mirror Image
Horizontal Mirror Image
Pattern Extend 2-5x
Long Stitch (artista 640 & 730 only)
Pattern Repeat 1-9x

In single mode select stitch #4. Adjust SW 5 mm and SL 3.5 mm.

Touch the Stitch Altering Area.

To permanently save the altered stitch, replacing the factory

settings, select Save Settings.

To store the altered stitch in the Personal Program, leaving the

#4 stitch on the Practical Stitch Menu at factory settings, select
Add to Personal Program.

Altered stitches can be reset to factory settings and stitches

can be removed from the Personal Program on the Stitch Altering
Area screen.

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This is a blank page.

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artista 630/640/730 only

Memory/Combi Mode
Fabric ...................................................... heavy muslin, 12” x 12”
Stabilizer .......................................................tear-away as needed
Needle ................................................ 90/14 Sharp or Embroidery Notes
Thread .............................................. 30 weight cotton embroidery
Presser Foot ................................. Reverse Pattern Foot #1/1C or
............................................................ Clear Foot #34/34C
Stitch ........................................................................ as indicated
Needle Position ................................................................... center

The following parameters can be altered separately for EACH

STITCH within a combination:
630 640 730
• Stitch Length yes yes yes
• Stitch Width yes yes yes
• Needle Position yes yes yes
• Tension n/a yes yes
• Balance yes yes yes
• Long Stitch --- yes yes
• Pattern Extend 2-5x yes yes yes
• Right/Left Mirror Image yes yes yes
• Up/Down Mirror Image yes yes yes
• Securing Function yes yes yes
• Sub-Divider 1 --- yes yes
• Sub-Divider 2 --- --- yes

The following parameters can be altered for the ENTIRE STITCH

COMBINATION (as one unit):
• Motor Speed
• Right/Left Mirror Image

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Memory/Combi Mode continued:

Preparation
all artista sewing systems: Using a spray adhesive such as HRFive,
adhere the stabilizer to the muslin. Mark six parallel lines on the fabric, Notes
approximately 1½” apart.

Row 1
Creating and Saving a Stitch Combination

630: 640 & 730:

• Touch the Combi Mode symbol. The Stitch Altering Area (SAA)
appears, ready for stitch input.

• Select stitch #120 (artista 630) or #145 (artista 640 & 730). The stitch
is automatically entered into the Stitch Altering Area (SAA). Notice that
the background of the selected stitch is BLUE and that there is a RED
cursor (dotted line) along the lower edge of the selected stitch.

• Select stitch #120/145 again. Notice that the first stitch is not active.

• To edit stitches in Combi Mode, simply touch the screen to activate the
desired stitch (the selected stitch – shown in the Stitch Altering Area –
will turn BLUE), then select the alterations.

• With the second #120/145 selected, engage the Horizontal Mirror

Image Function.

artista 630 & 640 artista 730

• Touch the flashing floppy • Touch the Multi-Function button,
disk / file drawer icon; save select Save Combination. Save
combination. this combination in a file drawer.

• Engage Pattern Repeat 4x. Sew. • Engage Pattern Repeat 4x. Mirror Image Icons
Sew. - Function Bar

artista 630/640/730
Up/Down
Mirror Image

Right/Left
Mirror Image

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Memory/Combi Mode continued:

Row 2
Inserting Stitches - Exercise A

630: 640/730:
Notes
• Your previous stitch combination should still be visible in the Stitch
Altering Area.

• Touch the first stitch pattern (it should turn BLUE). You will be
inserting a stitch in front of this one. Use the UP scroll arrow to move
the cursor (the red line) to the TOP of the first stitch pattern. Note: All
alterations, insertions, and deletions always affect the area above the
cursor.

• Select stitch #137; it appears above the first stitch (#120/145). With
stitch #137 selected, engage the Up/Down Mirror Image function.

• Scroll to the end of the combination, or touch the last stitch pattern.
Select stitch #137; it will be inserted into the stitch combination.

• Scroll up until the cursor is above the first stitch. Insert the Securing
Function. Scroll to the last stitch in the combination and insert another
Securing Function.

artista 630 & 640 artista 730

• Touch the Save icon. Save this • Touch the Multi-Function icon,
combination in an empty drawer. select Save Combination. Save
this combination in a different
• Engage Pattern Repeat 3x. drawer than Row 1.
• Sew. • Engage Pattern Repeat 3x.

• Sew.

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Memory/Combi Mode continued:

Row 3
Inserting Stitches - Exercise B

630: 640/730: Notes

• The previous stitch combination (Row 2) should still be visible
in the Stitch Altering Area (SAA).

• Insert stitch #401 at the beginning of the combination. Insert

stitch #401 two times at the end of the combination.

artista 630 & 640 artista 730

• Touch the Save icon. Save • Touch Multi-Function button;
this combination in an empty select Save Combination.
drawer. Save this combination in a
different drawer.
• Engage Pattern Repeat 2x;
sew. • Engage Pattern Repeat 2x;
sew.

• This combination isn’t quite as pretty as one might like, so it will

be altered for Row 4.

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Memory/Combi Mode continued:

Row 4 - Altering and Deleting Stitches - Exercise A

630: 640/730: Notes

Select the first stitch in the combination, then touch Delete.

Select the next to last stitch, #401. Engage the Up/Down Mirror
Image function.

Save this combination in the same memory drawers as Row 3;

it will overwrite the previous combination.

Engage Pattern Repeat 2x; sew. While the second repeat is

stitching, touch the Pattern End button (above the Quick Reverse
button on the machine) as the second leaf is sewn; the artista will
stop at the end of the leaf. Note: The Pattern End button signals
your artista to complete the current stitch pattern and then stop.

Note: When a stitch combination is being sewn, selecting the

Pattern End function will stop the machine at the end of the
current stitch pattern, not at the end of the current combination.

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Memory/Combi Mode continued:

Row 5 - Previewing Stitches - Exercise C

630: 640/730: Notes

• Touch the File Drawer symbol. Select an empty drawer.
Combine the following stitches:

artista 630 & 640 artista 730

• stitch #137, two times • stitch #740, one time
• stitch #712, one time • stitch #751, 1x
• stitch #744, 1x • stitch #744, 1x
• stitch #712, 1x • stitch #751, 1x
• stitch #137, 2x • stitch #740, 1x

• Touch the Multi-Function • Touch Multi-Function symbol;

icon; the Preview screen select the Preview option.
opens. Touch Escape. Touch the Binocular symbol
to access the second level
• Touch the Save icon. Save of Preview, the Sewing View.
combination in an empty Touch ESC.
drawer.
• Touch the Multi-Function
• Engage Pattern Repeat 1x; button. Select the Save
sew. Combination option. Save
in a new drawer.

• Engage Pattern Repeat 1x;

sew.

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Memory/Combi Mode continued:

Row 6 - Altering Stitches - Exercise B

630: 640/730:
Notes
• The previous stitch combination should still be visible in the
Stitch Altering Area (SAA).

• Touch the Multi-Function symbol. Select the Mirror Image

Combination Option.

artista 630 & 640 artista 730

• Touch Multi-Function icon; • Touch Multi-Function symbol;
the Preview option appears select the Preview option.
on screen. Your stitch combi- Touch the Binocular symbol
nation appears on-screen as to access the second level
a mirror image of the original of Preview, the Sewing View.
combination. Touch ESC. Your stitch combination
appeaars on-screen as a
• Touch the Save icon. Save mirror image of the original
combination in an empty combination. Touch ESC.
drawer.
• Touch the Multi-Function
• Engage Pattern Repeat 1x; button. Select the Save
sew. Combination option. Save
Rox 6 in a new drawer.

• Engage Pattern Repeat 1x;

sew.

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Memory/Combi Mode Sampler

artista 630 artista 640 & 730
Row 1
Creating & Saving a Stitch Combination

Row 2
Inserting Stitches – Exercise A

Row 3
Inserting Stitches – Exercise B

Row 4
Altering & Deleting Stitches – Exercise A

Row 5
Inserting Stitches – Exercise C

Row 6
Altering Stitches – Exercise B

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Memory/Sub-Divider 1 Sampler
Fabric .......................................................... heavy muslin, 6” x 12”
Stabilizer .......................................................................... tear-away
Needle .................................................................... 90/14 Universal Notes
Thread ................................................ 30 weight cotton embroidery
Presser Foot ....................................... Reverse Pattern Foot #1/1C
Stitch ........................................... decorative stitches as indicated
Needle Position ..................................................................... center

• Combine the following stitches in Combi Mode:

• stitch #137 + Up/Down Mirror Image
• stitch #145
• stitch #145 + Up/DownMirror Image
• stitch #137
• Sub-Divider 1

• After the Sub-Divider 1, enter the following stitches:

• stitch #448 + Up/Down AND Right/Left Mirror Image
• stitch #137 + Up/DownMirror Image
• stitch #145
• stitch #145 + Up/DownMirror Image
• stitch #137
• stitch #448
• Sub-Divider 1

• Save this stitch combination.

Instructions for sewing this sample are on pages 161-163.

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Memory/Sub-Divider 1 Sampler continued:

Stitching Outer Rectangle
• Using a temporary spray adhesive, bond the stabilizer to the muslin.

• Scroll to select the first section of the saved stitch combination.

Activate Pattern Begin and Pattern Repeat 1x.

• Sew; at the end of the stitching, step down on the heel of the foot
control to move the needle into the down position. Pivot 90º, then use
the foot control to move the needle to the up position.

• Scroll to the second section of the stitch combination. Activate Pattern

Begin and Pattern Repeat 2x. Sew; the artista will automatically stop
after the second repeat. Note: When Sub-Divider 1 is used, the
artista will stitch multiples of ONLY the selected section. When the
second repeat is complete, use the foot control to move the needle
to the down position. Pivot 90º, then use the foot control to move the
needle to the up position.

• Scroll up to the first section of the stitch combination. Activate Pattern

Begin and Pattern Repeat 1x. Sew; at the end of the stitching, use the
foot control to move the needle to the down position. Pivot 90º, then
use the foot control to move the needle to the up position.

• Scroll to the second section of the combination. Activate Pattern

Begin and Pattern Repeat 2x. Sew. This completes the stitching
of the rectangle.

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Memory/Sub-Divider 1 Sampler continued:

Stitching Center Motif
• The center motif is about 4” long. Draw a line through the
center of the stitched rectangle to use as a guide. Notes
• Select the Multi-Function button. Select the Preview option.
Scroll to move the cursor just to the right of the second tulip
in the second section of the stitch combination. Notice that
every stitch in the combination is numbered.

• Select the 9th stitch (tulip). When the stitch is selected, the
Preview screen auto-matically closes. The artista will begin
stitching at the beginning of stitch nine (unless the cursor is
moved again).

• Sew; the artista will stitch the end of the combination and
automatically begin sewing it a second time.

• Sew, watching stitching. After the tulip begins stitching, press

the Pattern End button on the front of the artista; sewing will
stop at the end of the tulip.

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Memory/Sub-Divider 1 Sampler

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artista 630/640/730 only

Setup Program
The Setup Program allows personalization of your sewing system
to reflect your sewing style, needs, and preferences. To access,
press the external Setup button. Notes
Display > Brightness & Display > Contrast
• adjust the appearance of the screen for the lighting conditions
in your sewing area

Display > Welcome Text

• change greeting

Sewing Setting > Sewing Light (artista 730 only)

• turn sewing light off/on

Sewing Settings > Motor Speed

• adjust the overall sewing speed of your sewing system
Note: the artista has a separate motor speed screen for
embroidery; to access, touch the Embroidery Settings symbol

Sewing Settings > Thread Tension (artista 640 & 730 only)
• adjust the overall tension setting of your sewing system
Note: the artista 640 & 730 have a separate tension screen for
embroidery; to access, touch the Embroidery Settings symbol

Customize Favorite Function (artista 730 only)

• assign function of your choice to the Favorite Function button
Sewing Tension
Touch > Calibrate (artista 640 & 730 only)
• calibrate the touch screen of your sewing system The tension of BERNINA®
sewing machines is factory
set for the best “all around”
Software & Language
results using Mettler polyester
• access information on the software version installed in your Metrosene thread in the needle
sewing machine and embroidery module and bobbin. If you regularly
use other types of thread,
you may find it useful to adjust
your tension settings using the
Thread Tension Adjustment in
the Setup Screen.

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artista 640/730 only

Setup Program - continued

Emb Set > Adjust Ref Position

• adjust the reference point of the embroidery module Notes
Emb Set > Auto Thread Cutter (artista 640 & 730 only)
• turn embroidery thread cutter off/on

Messages & Audio Signals

• turn audio signals off/on
• choose from a range of signals for each function:
Select Stitch
Select Function
Upper Thread Control
Lower Thread Control (artista 640 & 730 only)
Feed Dog Position
Presser Foot Position
Bobbin Winder
Embroidery Finished
Thread Cutter (artista 640 & 730 only)
Threader (artista 730 only)

Portal Provider Settings (artista 730 only)

• set up a phone connection for optional artista 730 modem
• allows access to a special artista 730 portal for News,
Downloads, and Tutorials

Return to Basic Settings

• returns all settings -- sewing and/or embroidery -- to the original
factory settings

esc & Leave Setup

• closes the Setup Screen without making changes
• returns to previously selected screen

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artista 730 only

Tutorial
Note: The artista 630 & 640 artista 730:
feature an embroidery Tutorial The artista Tutorial acts
which acts as an “on-line”
reference for a variety of
as an “on-line” manual with
instructions for a variety of
Notes
embroidery topics. See the sewing and embroidery topics.
Mastering Your BERNINA
Embroidery Module Workbook • Press the external T button
for more information.
• Select the desired category
from those listed:
Threading Additional Video Clips
Sewing Techniques Tutorial videos are found on
Buttonholes both the artista 730 Design
Peripherals CD-ROM (recovery) CD and
Embroidery on the BERNINA® artista
730 USB Stick.
Free Hand System (FHS)
Trouble Shooting CD: Attach the BERNINA®
Presser Feet CD-ROM drive to your artista
Needles and insert the Tutorial CD.

• Information is displayed USB Stick: Insert the

in the form of text, color BERNINA® artista 730 USB
diagrams, and video clips. Stick in the USB port at the
right side of the artista.

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artista 730 only

Creative Consultant
The artista 730 sewing system has an internal “sewing consultant”
that provides a wide range of sewing information and instructions.

• Press the external C button.

• Select the appropriate fabric type from the menu of lightweight,

medium weight, and heavyweight fabrics.

• Select the desired sewing technique:

Seaming
Overcasting
Edgestitching
Blindhem
Buttonhole
Zipper
Invisible Zipper
Decorative Work
Machine Quilting
Freemotion Work
Applique
Sideways Motion

• The Creative Consultant displays the following recommendations:

Presser Foot & Alternates
Needle & Alternates
Presser Foot Pressure
Stabilizer
Feed Dog Up/Down
Additional Accessories
Additional Comments
Tutorial Links

• After selecting the appropriate fabric and technique, press OK;

the artista 730 selects and adjusts the recommended stitch and
settings for:
Stitch Length
Stitch Width
Needle Position
Tension
Balance
Needle Stop Up/Down
Maximum Sewing Speed

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Class 6
Product Reference List
Stitch Manipulations
‰ Feet-ures, Volumes 1, 2, and 3
‰ BERNINA® Buttonhole Foot with Slide #3A/C
‰ BERNINA® Open Embroidery Foot #20 or
‰ BERNINA® Open Embroidery Foot #20C
‰ BERNINA® Clear Foot #34 or
‰ BERNINA® Clear Foot #34/C

‰ BERNINA® Iron
‰ HRFive Temporary Adhesive Spray
‰ Thread Stand

Threads
‰ 30 weight cotton embroidery thread
‰ Gimp cord or YLI Pearl Crown Rayon

Needles
‰ Microtex Sharp
‰ Embroidery
‰ Double

MASTERING YOUR BERNINA® /bernette® SEWING MACHINE 1/06 168

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Class 7
Directional Stitching
Class Overview
Directional Stitching
1 4-Directional Stitching
2 Directional Stitching
This class is formatted for owners
3 Freeform Directional Stitching
of the following model of
4 All-Over Directional Stitching
BERNINA® sewing machines:
5 Trailing Tulip Vines
• artista 730
6 Monogram
7 Scalloped Edge
8 Stacked Scallop Edge
9 Directional Quilting
10 Directional Baubles

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4- Directional Stitching
(artista 730 only)
Fabric ......................................................................... firm fabric, 6” x 6”
...................................................... firm cotton for patch, 2” x 2½”
Stabilizer ...................................................heavyweight tear-away, 6” x 6” Notes
Needle ......................................................................... 90/14 Embroidery
Thread ........................................................ 30 weight cotton embroidery
Presser Foot................................................ Sideways Motion Foot #40C
Stitch ..................................................... directional blanket stitch (#46)
Needle Position ....................................................................... as directed

Position and bond the fabric patch in the center of the fabric square
using 606 fusible adhesive spray.

Draw a line ½” from each side of the patch, forming a rectangle. This is
the stitching line.

Press the decorative stitch menu icon at the right side

of the screen, then select the 4-directional stitching
category. Select stitch #46 (directional blanket stitch),
then select the forward (down) direction.

Activate the Needle Down function. Position the presser foot on the
drawn line at the right side of the patch, aligning the center mark on the
foot with the line, and positioning the needle at the upper right corner of
the patch. Sew forward (down), stopping at the lower right corner of the
drawn rectangle.

Select the left direction. Sew, lightly guiding the fabric to keep the
sideways stitching on the drawn line. Stop when the needle reaches the
lower left corner of the drawn rectangle.

Select the backward (up) direction. Sew, keeping the stitching line
centered under the center mark on the foot. Stop at the upper left corner
of the drawn rectangle.

Select the right direction. Sew, lightly guiding the fabric to keep the
sideways stitching on the drawn line. Stop when the needle reaches the
upper right corner of the drawn rectangle, completing the stitching.

Bring the thread tails to the wrong side of the sample; tie by hand.

Fringe the edges of the patch between the stitching and the outer edge
of the patch.

Trim and mount the sample.

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4- Directional Stitching Sample

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16 - Directional Stitching
(artista 730 only)
Fabric ................................................................ firm fabric, 6” x 6”
Stabilizer ......................................... heavyweight tear-away, 6” x 6”
Needle ................................................................ 90/14 Embroidery Notes
Thread ............................................... 30 weight cotton embroidery
Presser Foot ...................................... Sideways Motion Foot #40C
Stitch ................................................................ directional zigzag
Needle Position .................................................................... center

Mark the center of the square of fabric. Place stabilizer behind

fabric, bonding with a light application of HRFive adhesive.

Press the decorative stitch menu icon at the right side of

the screen, then select the 16-directional stitching folder.

The stitch direction is chosen

by pressing the clockwise and
counterclockwise arrows; the
red line indicates the stitch
direction.

Starting at the center of the

fabric, stitch all 16 directions
using the preprogrammed directional zigzag stitch #40. Note that
the directional zigzag is a satin stitch, and that the stitch formation
that changes depending on the sewing direction.

Trim and mount the sample.

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16 - Directional Stitching Sample

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Free-Form Directional Stitching

(artista 730 only)
Fabric ................................................................. firm fabric, 6” x 6”
Stabilizer .......................................... heavyweight tear-away, 6” x 6”
Needle ................................................................. 90/14 Embroidery Notes
Thread ................................................ 30 weight cotton embroidery
Presser Foot ........................................Sideways Motion Foot #40C
Stitch ....................................................... directional straight stitch
........................................................ directional zigzag stitch
Needle Position ..................................................................... center

Select directional straight stitch #39, then choose a direction

from the compass template that appears on the screen. Stitch
1” to 2”.

Select a different direction. Stitch a couple inches.

Select another direction; stitch.

Continue selecting directions and stitching.

Repeat using directional zigzag stitch #40.

Note: The artista 730 can change directions while stitching;

the machine does not have to be stopped first.

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Free-Form Directional Stitching Sample

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All-Over Directional Stitching

(artista 730 only)
Fabric ................................................................. chamois, 8” x 12”
Stabilizer ........................................................... Aqua Film, 8” x 12”
Needle ................................................................ 90/14 Embroidery Notes
Thread ................................................ 30 weight cotton embroidery
Presser Foot ....................................... Sideways Motion Foot #40C
Stitch ...................................................... directional straight stitch
Needle Position ..................................................................... center

Place stabilizer behind fabric, bonding with a light application

of HRFive temporary adhesive. Fold fabric/stabilizer in half to
4” x 12”. Mark a large + shape on the fabric as a reference guide.

Program the following stitches in Combi Mode:

• #217, two times
• Insert stitch #39, direction 6, 4x between the two #217s
• Insert stitch #39, direction 10, 4x after the second #217

Save the stitch combination.

Stitch from one end of the fabric to the other, guiding fabric so
that the + stays parallel and perpendicular to the presser foot.

Stitch additional rows parallel to the first row, creating an allover

pattern on the fabric. Note: The second row in the sample was
stitched after selecting the Multi-function button (eyeglasses) and
Mirror Combination function.

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All-Over Directional Stitching Sample

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Trailing Tulip Vines

(artista 730 only)
Fabric ................................................................. chamois, 8” x 12”
Stabilizer ....................................... heavyweight tear-away, 8” x 12”
Needle ................................................................ 90/14 Embroidery Notes
Thread ................................................ 30 weight cotton embroidery
Presser Foot ....................................... Sideways Motion Foot #40C
Stitch ......................................................................... as indicated
Needle Position ..................................................................... center

Place stabilizer behind fabric, bonding with a light application of

HRFive spray adhesive. Mark a large + shape on the fabric as a
reference guide.

Program the following stitches in Combi Mode:

- stitch #137* + Up/Down Mirror Image

- stitch #145
- stitch #39, direction 6 - 1x
- stitch #145 + Up/Down Mirror Image
- stitch #137
- stitch #39, direction 10 - 1x
- stitch #145 + Up/Down Mirror Image
- stitch #137
- stitch #39, direction 6 - 1x
- stitch #137 + Up/Down Mirror Image
- stitch #145
- stitch #39, direction 10 - 1x

Save the stitch combination.

Stitch from one end of the fabric to the other, guiding fabric so that
the “+” stays parallel and perpendicular to the presser foot.

Stitch additional rows of this stitch combination, scrolling through

the stitches to start at different points.

Note: Some adjustments to stitch combination formulas may be

necessary depending on the fabric, thread, and stabilizer used to
create the stitch sample.

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Trailing Tulip Vines Sample

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Monogram
(artista 730 only)
Fabric .............................................................................. firm fabric, 8” x 12”
Stabilizer .......................................................... heavyweight cut-away, 8” x 12”
Needle 90/14 Embroidery
Thread Isacord embroidery
Notes
Presser Foot ........................................................ Sideways Motion Foot #40C
Stitch ............................................................................ monogram alphabet
...................................................................... directional straight stitch
Needle Position ..................................................................................... center

In this exercise, you will plot, program, and stitch a monogram, using the
directional straight stitch to move from the end of one letter to the beginning of
the next. Using the Long Stitch function omits every other stitch point in the 9mm
long directional stitch, making it easy to remove connecting stitches. Using the
Securing function ensures that letters are securely “tied” at the ends.
In Combi-mode select the Monograms from the Lettering menu Select B and K.
Directional stitches will be placed between the B and the K. Scroll up to place
the cursor at the lower edge of the B.

Select stitch # 39 to insert the first directional stitch and to activate the compass.
Locate the ending mark (red +) on the B and the beginning mark (green o) on
the K. The goal is to use directional stitches to sew from the last stitch in the B
to the first stitch in the K and to position the K below and to the right of the B.
Study the Monogram Sample. In what compass direction will the artista need
to sew to move from the last stitch in the B to the first stitch in the K? (Try this
without looking at the Monogram and Compass templates.) With the cursor
positioned at the bottom of the first directional stitch, move red compass line until
it is in the correct direction. Touch stitch #39 to insert a 2nd directional stitch.

Touch the Multi Function button and select Preview. Touch the Binocular icon
to view a virtual representation of the letter placement. Is the K is too close
to the B? Touch esc and insert additional stitches as needed. Preview the
combination and continue adding and adjusting stitch direction until the letter
placement is correct.
Add the long stitch function to each directional stitch. Add the securing function
to the beginning and end of the combination.

Place stabilizer behind fabric, bonding with a light application of HRFive spray
adhesive. Mark a large + shape on the fabric as a reference guide. Position Preview: artista 730
the stabilized fabric under Sideways Motion Foot #40. Engage Pattern Begin
Select Preview, then the
and Pattern Repeat 1X. As you stitch, guide the fabric, keeping the sides of the
presser foot parallel to the guiding lines drawn on the fabric. Clip and remove Binoculars icon. A diagram
the basting stitches between the monogram letters. appears screen showing how
the monogram will look when
Note: Some adjustments to stitch combination formulas may be necessary it is stitched.
depending on the fabric, thread, and stabilizer used to create the stitch sample.

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Monogram Sample

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Scalloped Edge
(artista 730 only)
Fabric ................................................................. chamois, 8” x 12”
Stabilizer ....................................... heavyweight tear-away, 8” x 12”
Needle ................................................................ 90/14 Embroidery Notes
Thread ................................................ 30 weight cotton embroidery
Presser Foot ....................................... Sideways Motion Foot #40C
Stitch ...................................................... directional straight stitch
............................................................. multi-motion scallop
Needle Position ..................................................................... center

Affix the stabilizer to the back of the fabric with a light application
of HRFive spray adhesive. Fold in half to 4” x 12”.

Select Combi Mode. Program the following stitch combination:

• stitch #507, two times

• stitch #39, direction 2, 1x, between the two scallops
• stitch #39, direction 14, 1x, after the second scallop
• select the second scallop; engage Right/Left Mirror Image
• select each of the directional straight stitches; engage the
Long Stitch function; this will make the connecting stitches
easier to clip and remove.

Save to an empty file drawer.

Stitch, guiding gently.

If necessary, fine tune the directional stitching so that the end of

the scallops meet as shown in the illustration.

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Scalloped Edge Sample

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Stacked Scallop Edge

(artista 730 only)
Fabric ................................................................. chamois, 8” x 12”
Stabilizer ....................................... heavyweight tear-away, 8” x 12”
Needle ................................................................ 90/14 Embroidery Notes
Thread ................................................ 30 weight cotton embroidery
Presser Foot ....................................... Sideways Motion Foot #40C
Stitch ......................................................................... as indicated
Needle Position ..................................................................... center

Place stabilizer behind fabric, bonding with a light application of

HRFive spray adhesive. Fold fabric/stabilizer in half to 4” x 12”.
Mark a large + shape on the fabric as a reference/guideline.

Program the following stitches in Combi Mode:

- stitch #507, 3x

- touch Pattern Begin; the cursor moves between the first and
second scallops

- stitch #39, direction 2 - 3x between the first and second

scallop

- stitch #39, direction 14 - 3x between second & third scallop

- engage Long Stitch function for the Directional stitches only

Save the stitch combination.

Stitch from one end of the fabric to the other, guiding fabric so
that the + stays parallel and perpendicular to the presser foot.

Partially trim fabric from scallops. Note: To create edging, trim

fabric from outer edge, then apply YLI Pearl Crown Rayon to the
edge using Embroidery Foot #6 or Clear Embroidery Foot #39
and a small zigzag stitch.

Note: Some adjustments to stitch combination formulas may be

necessary depending on the fabric, thread, and stabilizer used
to create the stitch sample.

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Stacked Scallop Edge Sample

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Directional Quilting
(artista 730 only)
Fabric ............................. two pieces cotton quilting fabric, 4” x 12”
Stabilizer ........................... cotton needle-punched batting, 4” x 12”
Needle ................................................................ 90/14 Embroidery Notes
Thread ................................................ 30 weight cotton embroidery
Presser Foot ....................................... sideways Motion Foot #40C
Stitch ...................................................... directional straight stitch
Needle Position ..................................................................... center

Affix the batting to the back of the fabric with a light application
of HRFive spray adhesive. “Baste” the backing to the other side
of the batting in the same manner to create a “quilt sandwich.”

Select Combi Mode. Program the following stitch combination:

• stitch #39, direction 8, 1x,
• stitch #39, direction 4, 2x,
• stitch #39, direction 8, 3x,
• stitch #39, direction 12, 2x,
• stitch #39, direction 8, 2x,

Insert a Sub-Divider 1.

Program the following stitch combination:

• stitch #39, direction 8, 2x,
• stitch #39, direction 12, 1x,
• stitch #39, direction 8, 1x,
• stitch #39, direction 4, 1x

Save to an empty file drawer.

Draw a line from one end of the fabric to the other, marking the
center of the fabric. Engage Pattern Repeat 1X and stitch each
stitch combination one time, aligning the center of the presser foot
with the drawn line at the beginning of each line of stitching, and
keeping the foot parallel to the line as the fabric moves from side
to side under the foot.

Trim and mount the sample.

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Directional Quilting Sample

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Directional Baubles
(artista 730 only)
Fabric .................................................. firm, woven fabric, 8” x 12”
Stabilizer ....................................... heavyweight tear-away, 8” x 12”
Needle ................................................................ 90/14 Embroidery Notes
Thread ................................................ 30 weight cotton embroidery
Presser Foot ....................................... Sideways Motion Foot #40C
Stitch ......................................................................... as indicated
Needle Position ..................................................................... center

This is a fun and different way to use the artista 730’s directional
capabilities. It makes use of the Sub-Divider 2 feature, which acts
as a stop within a combination. A Sub-Divider 2 also allows you
to continue sewing other parts of a stored stitch combination.

• Select Combi Mode. Program the following combination of stitches:

- stitch #654, stitch length = 2mm
- stitch #651
- stitch #654, SL=2, Up/Down Mirror Image
- Sub-Divider 2
- stitch #39, direction 4- 3x
- Sub-Divider 2
- stitch #431
- Sub-Divider 2

• Save to an empty file drawer.

• Place the stabilizer under the fabric.
• Begin sewing the motif. After the first three patterns have been
stitched the artista 730 will automatically stop at the Sub-Divider 2.
• Release the foot control, then begin sewing again. The artista 730
automatically moves to the directional section of the combination,
then stops at the next Sub-Divider 2.
• Release the foot control. Raise the presser foot and pivot the fabric
180º. Resume stitching; the next stitch pattern stitches over the
previous directional stitching. Again, the artista stops automatically
at the end of the stitch pattern.
• Pivot 90º and continue sewing the combination as shown.
• Repeat to create an interesting linear embellishment.
• Trim and mount sample.

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Directional Baubles Sample

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Class 7
Product Reference List
Directional Stitching
‰ Feet-ures, Volumes 1, 2, and 3

‰ Sideways Motion Foot #40C

‰ Embroidery Foot #6
‰ Clear Embroidery Foot #39

‰ BERNINA® Iron

Thread
‰ Mettler 30 weight Cotton Embroidery

Needles
‰ Embroidery
‰ Microtex Sharp

Stabilizers
‰ OESD Heavyweight Tear-Away
‰ OESD Heavyweight Cut-Away
‰ OESD Aqua Film
‰ HRFive Spray Adhesive

‰ Nifty Notions “Cut for the Cure” Rulers

‰ Rotary Cutter and Mat
‰ Temporary/Wash-Away Fabric Markers

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 Mastering
BERNINA /bernette Sewing Machines
® ®
Your
BERNINA®

Appendix
Stitch & Function Charts

Practical Stitch Chart

Selected Decorative/Quilting Stitches Chart
Selected Functions/Features

Function Icons & External Buttons

artista 630
artista 640
artista 730

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 Mastering
BERNINA /bernette Sewing Machines
® ®
Your
BERNINA®

Owner’s Manual References

Practical Stitch Chart

Practical Stitches 55 65 80e 90e 1008 220 230 240 430 440 630 640 730
Straight Stitch 2 2 2 2 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1
Zigzag Stitch 3 3 3 3 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2
Vari-Overlock 6 6 5 5 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3
Running Stitch -- -- -- 9 7 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4
Securing Stitch -- -- -- -- -- 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5
Quilters’ Securing St. -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- 41 324 324 324
Triple Straight Stitch 7 15 S2 S2 9 6 6 6 6 6 6 6 6
Triple Zigzag 8 14 S3 S3 10 6 6 6 6 6 7 7 7
Honey comb 9 12 S4 S4 -- 19 22 22 23 25 8 8 8
Blindstitch 4 5 12 13 3 7 7 7 7 7 9 9 9
Double Overlock 11 10 S6 S6 -- 8 8 8 8 8 10 10 10
Super Stretch -- -- -- -- -- 9 9 9 9 9 11 11 11
Gathering (Bridging) -- -- 8 8 -- 14 16 18 21 22 12 12 12
Stretch Overlock / 10 11 S5 S5 11 15 17 19 -- 23 13 13 13
Towelling
Jersey Stitch -- -- -- -- -- -- 18 20 22 24 14 14 14
Universal Stitch -- 7 6 6 4 17 20 23 24 26 15 15 15
Sewn-Out Zigzag 5 4 4 4 -- -- -- 24 25 27 16 16 16
Lycra Stitch -- -- -- -- -- 18 21 25 26 28 17 17 17
Stretch Stitch -- -- -- -- 5 -- -- 26 27 29 18 18 18
Reinforced Overlock -- -- S12 S13 14 -- -- -- 20 30 19 19 19
Knit Overlock -- -- 13 14 -- -- -- -- 28 31 20 20 20
Basting Stitch -- -- -- -- -- -- 19 21 19 21 30 21 21

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 Mastering
BERNINA /bernette Sewing Machines
® ®
Your
BERNINA®

Owner’s Manual References

Practical Stitch Chart - continued

Practical Stitches 55 65 80e 90e 1008 220 230 240 430 440 630 640 730
Simple Darning -- -- -- -- -- 13 15 17 18 20 22 22 22
Reinforced Darning -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- 23 23 23
Bartack 1 -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- 24 24 24
Bartack 2 -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- 25 25 25
Fly Stitch - large -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- 26 26
Fly Stitch - small -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- 27 -- 27
Narrow Blindstitch -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- 29
Standard Buttonhole 1 1 1 1 yes 10 10 10 10 10 51 51 51
Heirloom / Narrow BH -- -- -- -- -- -- -- 11 11 11 52 52 52
Stretch Buttonhole -- -- -- -- -- -- -- 12 12 12 53 53 53
Round Buttonhole 1 -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- 13 54 54 54
Round Buttonhole 2 -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- 55 55
Keyhole Buttonhole 1 -- -- -- -- -- 11 11 13 13 14 56 56 56
Keyhole Buttonhole 2 -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- 57
Keyhole Buttonhole 3 -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- 58
Straight Stitch BH -- -- -- -- -- -- 12 14 14 15 59 59 59
Hand-look Buttonhole -- -- -- -- - -- -- -- 15 16 63 63 63
Button Sew-On -- -- -- -- -- 12 13 15 16 17 60 60 60
Narrow Zigzag Eyelet -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- 18 61 61 61
Straight Stitch Eyelet -- -- -- -- -- -- 14 16 17 19 62 62 62

MASTERING YOUR BERNINA® /bernette® SEWING MACHINE 1/06 193

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 Mastering
BERNINA /bernette Sewing Machines
® ®
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BERNINA®

Owner’s Manual References

Selected Decorative/Quilting Stitches

Dec/Quilt Stitches 55 65 80e 90e 1008 220 230 240 430 440 630 640 730
Outline Heart -- -- -- -- -- -- -- 85 127 156 712 712 712
Satin Stitch Heart -- -- -- -- -- 32 46 55 76 99 413 413 413
Feather -- -- S8 S8 -- -- 37 44 53 48 332 332 332
Straight Stitch Scallop -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- 131 160 719 719 719
Blanket -- 13 14 15 -- 28 34 41 50 45 329 329 329
Double Blanket -- -- -- -- -- -- 35 42 51 46 330 330 330
Entredeux -- -- -- -- -- -- 59 76 118 147 701 701 701
Star -- -- -- -- -- -- 64 84 126 155 711 711 711
Satin Stitch Scallop 12 8 11 12 8 34 48 58 79 102 416 416 416
Satin Stitch Triangle -- -- -- -- -- 29 42 49 66 89 401 401 401
Hand-Look Quilt St. -- -- 15 16 -- 27 33 40 49 44+ 328+ 328+ 328+
Hand-Look Applique -- -- -- -- -- -- 36 43 52 47 331 331 331
Floral (tulips) -- -- -- -- -- 20 23 27 29 64 101 101 101
Stipple -- -- -- -- -- 26 32 39 48 43 327 327 327+
Ladder Stitch -- -- -- -- -- -- 60 77 119 148 702 702 702
Directional Straight St. -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- 39
Directional Zigzag -- -- -- -- - -- -- -- -- -- -- -- 40
Turtle -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- 907 907 907
“Swoosh” -- -- -- -- -- 33 47 56 77 100 414 414 414
Leaves / Bow -- -- -- -- -- 43 65 88 130 159 717 717 717

Note: + indicates that additional stitches are available.

MASTERING YOUR BERNINA® /bernette® SEWING MACHINE 1/06 194

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 Mastering
BERNINA /bernette Sewing Machines
® ®
Your
BERNINA®

Owner’s Manual References

Selected Functions / Features

Functions / Features 55 65 80e 90e 1008 220 230 240 430 440 630 640 730
Long Stitch / Function -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- 42/-- Yes/-- Yes/Yes Yes/Yes
Pattern Extend 2-5x -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- Yes Yes Yes
Pattern Begin -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- Yes Yes Yes Yes Yes
Right/Left Image -- -- -- -- -- Yes Yes Yes Yes Yes Yes Yes Yes
Up/Down Mirror Image -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- Yes Yes Yes
Pattern End -- -- -- -- -- Yes Yes Yes Yes Yes Yes Yes Yes
Pattern Repeat 1-9x -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- Yes Yes Yes
Balance -- -- -- -- -- Dial Dial -- Yes Yes Yes Yes Yes
Double Needle Limit. -- -- -- -- -- -- -- Dial -- -- Yes Yes Yes
Wing Needle Limit. -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- Yes Yes Yes
Tension Dial Dial Dial Dial Dial Dial Dial -- Dial Dial Dial Yes Yes
Continuous Reverse -- -- -- -- -- Yes Yes Dial Yes Yes Yes Yes Yes
Needle Stop Up/Down -- -- Yes Yes -- Yes Yes Yes Yes Yes Yes Yes Yes
Securing Function -- -- -- -- -- -- -- Yes Yes Yes Yes Yes Yes
Motor Speeds -- -- Slide Slide -- 2 2 -- Slide Slide Slide Slide 4
Memory -- -- -- -- -- 30 30 2 60 90 Yes Yes Yes
Personal Program -- -- -- -- -- -- -- 30 -- -- Yes Yes Yes
Favorite Function -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- Yes
Alphabets -- -- -- -- -- 1 2 -- 2 3 4 (A/a) 5 (A/a) 6 (A/a)
Monograms -- -- -- -- -- -- -- 3 -- -- -- -- 3 sizes
Auto Thread Cutter -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- Yes Yes
Stitch Selection 0-9 -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- Yes Yes Yes

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 Mastering
BERNINA /bernette Sewing Machines
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BERNINA®
artista 630 Functions

Basic Functions Buttonhole Functions

Pattern Extend 2-5x Recording

Right/Left Mirror Image Length On-Screen Measurement

Up/Down Mirror Image Manual

Balance
Alphabet Functions
Security Program Alphabet Size (size 1 active)

Continuous Reverse Upper case/Lower case

Securing Function

Pattern Repeat 1-9x External Buttons

Needle Position Buttons - 1
1
Stitch Selection by Number Needle Stop Up/Down - 2
Pattern End - 3
Slide Speed Control - 4 2 3

Stop/Start Button - 5
4
Securing Function - 6
Quick Reverse Button - 7
5

MASTERING YOUR BERNINA® /bernette® SEWING MACHINE 1/06 196

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 Mastering
BERNINA /bernette Sewing Machines
® ®
Your
BERNINA®
artista 640 Functions
Basic Functions Buttonhole Functions
Long Stitch Recording

Pattern Extend 2-5x Length On-Screen Measurement

Right/Left Mirror Image Manual

Up/Down Mirror Image

Alphabet/Monogram Functions
Tension
Alphabet Size (size 1 active)

Balance
Upper case/Lower case

Security Program

Continuous Reverse

External Buttons
Securing Function
Needle Position Buttons - 1
Needle Stop Up/Down - 2 1
Pattern Repeat 1-9x Pattern End - 3
Slide Speed Control - 4 2 3

Stitch Selection by Number

Stop/Start Button - 5 4
Thread Cutter - 6
Quick Reverse Button - 7
5

MASTERING YOUR BERNINA® /bernette® SEWING MACHINE 1/06 197

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 Mastering
BERNINA /bernette Sewing Machines
® ®
Your
BERNINA®
artista 730 Functions
Basic Functions Buttonhole Functions
Long Stitch Recording

Pattern Extend 2-5x Length On-Screen Measurement

Pattern Begin Manual

(with Favorite Function indicated)

Right/Left Mirror Image Stitch Counter

Up/Down Mirror Image

Alphabet/Monogram Functions
Stitch Counter Alphabet Size (size 1 active)

Needle Stop Adjustments Upper case/Lower case

Tension Monogram Size (size 1 active)

Balance
External Buttons
Security Program Head Frame
Automatic Thread Cutter -1
1 2
Continuous Reverse Favorite Function Button - 2
Pattern End Button - 3 3
Quick Reverse Button - 4
Securing Function 4
1
Machine Right Front
Pattern Repeat 1-9x Needle Position Buttons -1
Creative Consultant - 2
2 4 Clear Button- 3
Motor Speed
Tutorial - 4
3 5 Setup Button - 5
Stitch Selection by Number

MASTERING YOUR BERNINA® /bernette® SEWING MACHINE 1/06 198

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