Lee Valley Tools - Taig Lathe Instruction Booklet 03J71.

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Taig Lathe Instruction Booklet 03J71.00

1. Specifications

Center Height: 2.250"

Distance Between Centers: 9.75"
Recommended Motor: 1/6 to 1/4 hp, 1725 rpm, 1/2" arbor
Accuracy: ? .001"
Spindle: 3/4" - 16 tpi
Lubrication: 10W motor oil (head bearings permanently lubricated)
Replacement Belts: 3M - 315mm or 3M -500mm
Tailstock Spindle Threads: 3/8" - 24 tpi
Spindle Speeds (rpm): I -A: 5800
2-B: 3340
3-C: 2110
4-D: 1375
5-E: 880
6-F: 500

INTRODUCTION
The Taig Lathe components are set by the manufacturer and should not require any adjustment
before use. You should, however, go over each component, not only to check for proper adjustment,
but also to familiarize yourself with the lathe.

This instruction booklet outlines the adjustments that can be made to each component. Before
making any adjustment, you should clean the packing oil from the lathe and lubricate all the parts with
10W motor oil. All the components should slide or turn easily without any free play. Do not over
tighten.

2. Basic Taig Lathe Parts List

The following parts are the basic lathe components for either the wood turning or metal turning option:

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1 Lathe: Headstock, bed and tailstock.

2 Pulleys: Motor pulley (1/2" I.D.) and lathe pulley (5/8" I.D.).
2 Belts Short Vee, Long Vee
1 Motor Mount: Mounting plate, four 1/4-20x 1"machine screws,
four 1/4" flat washers, four 1/4-20 hex nuts.
1 3/32 Hex Key

1 5/32 Hex Key

1 1" Thin-Profile Wrench

1 Brass Thumbscrew

1 Carriage Stop: 6" steel rod, 1/4-20 thumbscrew.

Metal Turning Option - 03J71.01

The metal turning lathe set includes all items in the Basic Lathe plus the following:

1 Tool bit, unground, 1/4" 1 Carriage with handwheel

1 Tool bit post 1 Rack with 4-40 capscrew

1 Cross slide

Wood Turning Option - 03J71.02

The wood turning lathe set includes all items in the Basic Lathe plus the following:

1 2" Face plate

1 2-1/2" Tool rest with base and post swivel

1 7/16" Cup center

1 3/4" Spur center

3. Mounting Instructions

OPTION 1: To mount the motor on the left-hand side of the lathe headstock.
(Prevents dust contamination in open case motors.)

Material Required

1/4 hp motor (48 or 56 frame, 1725 rpm, 1/2" shaft) - (optional L.V. 03J60.40) or customer-
supplied equivalent

Motor pulleys ( 2 included)

Short vee belt (included)

Motor mount (included)

8" x 24" x 3/4" mounting board (optional board L.V. 03J70.04 is medium-density particleboard)

Two 1/4-20 x 1" rd. hd. machine screws with four 1/4" washers

Two 1/4-20 x 1/2" rd. hd. machine screws with 2 nuts and 2 washers

Four #10-32 x I" rd. hd. machine screws with 4 nuts and 4 washers

Motor Rotation
The direction of the motor rotation will have to be reversed to counterclockwise spindle rotation (when

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facing spindle) from standard motor manufacture (clockwise rotation).

Motor (L.V. 03J60.40 or equivalent)

Loosen the two screws holding the cover plate at the end of the motor and remove the plate.
Interchange the position of the red and black wires and replace the plate. If you supply your own
motor, please refer to instructions on motor.

Mounting Motor
Fasten the motor base to the top of
the included motor mount with the
1/4-20 x 1/2" screws. The washers
and nuts go on top. The slots in the
motor base may be used to position
the motor so the weight of the motor
will provide the correct belt tension.

Option 1- Mounting Board Drill Pattern.

A. Drill #7 or 13/64" and tap 1/4 - 20 NC.
B. Drill #7 or 13/64". Counterbore from the underside 5/8" diameter x 3/16" deep.

Using Optional Mounting Board (03J70.04)

The motor mount is fastened to the mounting board with two 1/4-20x1" long machine screws. Holes
must be drilled. Place 1/4" washers under and on top of the motor mount. Leave about 1/8" clearance
between the top of the washer and the screw head. This space permits the motor to tip forward for
changing the position of the belt.

The 1/4-20 screws may be forced into the particleboard; however, it is preferable to thread the holes
with a 1/4-20 NC tap.

Mounting Lathe
The lathe is fastened in place with four #10-32 x 1" machine screws and square nuts. The
counterbores in the bottom of the board are to accommodate the screw heads and washers.

Slide the motor pulley on the motor shaft with the large diameter next to the motor. Line up the motor
pulley with the lathe pulley with a rule or by eye and tighten the setscrew on the flat on the shaft.

Tip the motor forward to place the vee belt on the pulleys.

The lathe is now ready for use.

OPTION 2: To mount the motor behind the lathe headstock.

Material Required

1/4 hp motor (48 or 56 frame, 1725 rpm) -(optional L.V. 03J60.40) or customer-supplied
equivalent

Motor pulleys (2 included)

Long vee belt (included)

Motor mount (included)

12" x18"x 3/4" (or larger) medium-density particleboard

Two 1/4-20 x 1" rd. hd. machine screws with four 1/4" washers

Two 1/4-20 x 1/2" rd. hd. machine screws with 2 nuts and 2 washers

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Four #10-32 x 1" rd. hd. machine screws with 4 nuts and 4 washers

Motor Rotation
Normal motor rotation is used in this installation. (Clockwise spindle rotation when facing motor.)

Mounting Motor
Fasten the motor base to the top of
the motor mount with 1/4-20 x 1/2"
screws. The washers and the nuts
are on top. The slots in the motor
base may be used to position the
motor so the weight of the motor will
provide the correct belt tension.

The motor mount is fastened to the

mounting board with two 1/4-20 x 1"
long machine screws. Place 1/4"
washers under and on top of the
motor mount. Leave about 1/8"
clearance between the top of the
washer and the screw head. This
space permits the motor to tip
forward for changing the position of
the belt.

The 1/4-20 screws may be forced

into the particleboard; however, it is
preferable to thread the holes with a 1/4-20 NC tap.

Option 2 - Mounting Board Drill Pattern.

A. Drill #7 or 13/64" and tap 1/4 - 20 NC.
B. Drill #7 or 13/64". Counterbore from the underside 5/8" diameter x 3/16" deep.

Mounting Lathe
The lathe is fastened in place with four #10-32 x 1" machine screws and square nuts. The
counterbores under the board are to accommodate the screw heads and washers.

Slide the motor pulley in place with the small diameter next to the motor. Line up the pulleys with a
rule or by eye and tighten the setscrew on the flat on the shaft.

Tip the motor forward to place the vee belt on the pulleys.

The lathe is now ready for use.

4. Set-Up and Use of the Lathe

HEADSTOCK
The headstock consists of two aluminum extrusions held together
with three hex-socket screws. The upper screw tensions the
bearings and should be tightened only to the point where the
bearings are firmly held in the headstock. The lower two screws
clamp the headstock to the dovetail lathe bed. Tighten these two
screws evenly until the headstock is held firmly to the bed.

MOUNTING THE PULLEYS

The two pulleys supplied with the lathe have close fitting tolerances.
To ease their installation on the spindles, first heat the pulleys in hot

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water. This will expand them enough that they should slide onto the
spindle freely. Make sure that the lathe pulley seats fully on the spindle. Tighten the setscrews once
they are positioned properly.

THE CARRIAGE

Mounting the Rack

If you have bought the metal turning option, you will
have to affix the gear-tooth rack to the lathe bed.
The rack fits into a groove in the aluminum bed
extrusion (see illustration). Place the rack into the
groove with the end without gear teeth toward the
headstock and the other end flush with the tailstock
end of the lathe bed. The rack is fixed in place with
one 4-40 capscrew 3" from the end of the lathe
bed.

Adjusting the Carriage Handwheel Pinion

The handwheel pinion gear spins in an eccentric shaft. If the pinion does not engage the rack fully,
loosen the setscrew locking the eccentric shaft (located on the right side of the carriage). Turn the
eccentric shaft to raise or lower the pinion with relation to the rack. The adjustments to the pinion will
have to be by trial and error since access is only possible when the carriage is removed from the

lathe.

Adjusting the Carriage Travel

Any free play in the lathe carriage will make it impossible to accurately turn parts. To adjust the
carriage, you must first clean the lathe bed of any packing grease, then apply a I light coat of I 10W
oil to the bed. Slide the carriage onto the bed until the handwheel engages the rack. Move the
carriage about midway onto the bed. To remove play from the carriage you must adjust the gib on the
back of the carriage. Back off the jam nuts on the two setscrews on either end of the carriage. Adjust
both setscrews evenly until the carriage moves smoothly on the bed without play. Lock the jam nut on
each setscrew.

Adjusting the Cross Slide Travel

To adjust the cross slide travel, adjust the tension on the gib with the three setscrews on the right side
of the cross slide as above.

The Tool Post

The tool post is milled to accept 1/4" square tools. The post is fixed to the cross slide with a #10
square nut that rides in either slot on the slide. Metal or cardboard shims may be needed to adjust the
height of the cutting tools on centre to the spindle. When fixing a cutting tool in the post, make sure
that both of the setscrews clamping the tool are tight.

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The Tailstock
A brass thumbscrew has been supplied with your lathe. If you wish, replace the hex-socket screw that
locks the tailstock centre in position so that hand locking the tailstock is possible. Remove the screw
from the tailstock, but retain the steel bushing and replace it with the brass thumbscrew.

Centering the Tailstock

Remove the carriage from the lathe
and bring the tailstock up to the
headstock and lock it in place.
Mount a taper or any center such as
the blank collet in the headstock.
Bring the tailstock center up to the
known center in the headstock and
adjust the tailstock's center until it is
aligned by loosening the adjusting
screw and moving the tailstock fore
or aft on its dovetail way.

Changing Tailstock Centers

To replace the standard tailstock
center with a live center, first
remove the lever pivot screw. Then
remove the center with the lever
attached; the lever is not used with the live center. Mount the live center.

5. Care and Maintenance

While the Taig Lathe requires very little maintenance, cleanliness is important. After working metal or
wood, the lathe must be thoroughly cleaned of swarf or shavings with a soft cloth and brush such as
an old toothbrush. After cleaning your lathe, oil the bed to prevent corrosion. Particular attention
should be paid to the spindle threads. Before attaching any chuck or component to the spindle, make
sure the threads are not damaged and are clean of debris. Components will not seat properly if the
threads are damaged and accurate turning will be impossible.

If the lathe will be left idle for any period of time, you should release the tension on the drive belt,
otherwise you may induce localized stretching in the belt and experience some vibration once you
restart the lathe. This will also prolong the life of the drive belt.

Occasionally check each component for play and smooth movement. Adjust and lubricate any part
that needs attention.

Finally, store your lathe covered to protect it from dust and humidity.

6. General Accessories

THREE-JAW CHUCK (03J70.05)

The three-jaw chuck is self-centering and is useful for holding round
and hexagonal stock. Because it is self-centering, it is particularly
useful for woodturning. The standard, aluminum soft jaws have a
capacity of 1/8" to 7/8".

Before using the chuck, the jaws must be trued. To do so, mount the
washer supplied with the chuck into the recess milled into the
bottom of the jaws. Tighten the jaws with the tommy bar. Using a
boring bar, make light cuts on the inside edge of the jaws until
a .010" to .020" "flat" has been turned onto all of the jaws.

One modification that is quite useful for the three-jaw chuck is to turn steps on the aluminum jaws.

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Again, to turn the steps on the front of the jaws, first mount the washer at the base of the jaws. This
modification will increase the chuck's capacity to 3-1/2".

When using a three-jaw chuck, try to do all operations without having to remove and remount the
workpiece. It is almost impossible to remount a workpiece exactly on center in a self-centering chuck.
Also, do not leave work clamped in the chuck for extended periods of time; the strain on the jaws may
make the chuck sloppy.

Extra sets of standard soft jaws (03J70.06) are available for making custom jaws or replacing a worn
set. Full-circle soft jaws (03J70.07) are also available to hold thin stock that needs full support.

FOUR-JAW CHUCK (03J70.08)

The four-jaw chuck can hold virtually any shape of workpiece. Each jaw is
adjusted independently to accommodate any shape.

Setting the Work in the Four-Jaw Chuck

For centering regular-shaped objects in the chuck (i.e., square or round
stock), set the work in by eye using the grooves milled into the body as
reference. Set up a scriber so that the point just touches the corners of the
work to be turned. Turn the chuck by hand and note any run-out at the
corners of the work. Adjust the jaws by loosening one jaw and tightening the
opposite. Keep on repeating this procedure until the workpiece runs true.
With practice, this should not take more than a minute or so. Tighten the
work into the chuck by finally tightening each jaw exactly the same amount in
sequence (1, 2, 3, 4). Check to see that the work remained true.

For round stock, it is best to use a dial indicator in the same fashion as
above. If you don't have an indicator, use a fine-tipped felt marker in the tool
post so that it just leaves a mark on the workpiece on the high spot. Adjust
the chuck, rub off the mark, and repeat until the mark runs right around the
work at an even thickness.

A four-jaw chuck can also turn eccentrics (such as crankshafts). To do so,

the clamped work is intentionally held off center by the eccentricity or throw
desired.

When turning with a four-jaw chuck, you must be careful to keep the carriage and your hands clear of
the protruding jaws of the chuck. Set the carriage stop before turning on the power to avoid running
the carriage into the chuck.

MACHINIST'S FACE PLATE (03J70.09)

& RIGHT-ANGLE JAWS (03J70.10)
The machinist's face plate has two T-slots milled into the face to accept #10 square nuts. Work can
be held on the face plate by using custom-made clamping bars or available right-angle jaw set. Work
is centered on the face plate much as it would be for the four-jaw chuck.

Because work is often unbalanced on the face plate, the lathe should be run at the slowest possible
speed and/or the face plate counterbalanced with opposing weights.

JACOBS CHUCK (03J70.14)

& HEADSTOCK CHUCK ARBOR (03J70.38)
A chuck is required for the tailstock when drilling
work. The Jacobs chuck threads directly onto the
tailstock center for this purpose. The Jacobs chuck
can also be mounted to the headstock spindle by
means of an arbor that runs through the spindle.
This will allow you to hold tools for machining parts
held to the carriage or milling attachment. It will

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also allow you to hold round stock 1/4" in diameter

or less, although the collets are better for this purpose.

COLLET SET (03J70.11)

Particularly useful in watch making, collets firmly hold small diameter parts. The set includes 1/8",
5/32", 7/32", 1/4", 9/32", 5/16", one blank collet for a custom-sized collet, plus a closing nut.

NEEDLE-BEARING LIVE CENTER (03J70.19)

The live center is required to support delicate material between centers. It is spring loaded so that it
will maintain the proper setting while turning. The live center is also useful when turning wood.
Because the center point turns with the workpiece, heat from friction is eliminated as well as the
squeaking.

The live center comes well greased with white lithium grease. It should be cleaned with solvent and
regreased periodically. The O-ring should be kept on the shaft to block any debris from getting into
the bearings.

STEADY REST (03J70.23)

A steady rest is used to support material in the
lathe that has a long overhang. It can be used
when boring the end of long bars or when turning
thin sections where there is a tendency for the work
to spring under pressure from the cutting tools.
Loosen the three posts and adjust the position of
each so that it has a close fit to the workpiece. Be
careful not to move the workpiece off center with
the steady rest.

TOP SLIDE (03J70.24)

The top slide allows for cutting tapers or angles. It
comes with a rotating tool-bit post and has a travel
of 1-3/4". The top slide fits onto one of the cross-slide T-slots. First, loosen the swivel-adjustment bolt
on the underside of the top slide (use a 1/8" hex key). Slide the top
slide onto one of the cross-slide T-slots and adjust the top slide to
the angle desired. Lock the angle by tightening the bolt on the
underside of the slide. The top slide is capable of turning tapers to a
maximum of 1-3/4" in length. If you need to turn a longer taper, you
will have to offset the tailstock center.

MILLING ATTACHMENT (03J70.25)

The milling attachment gives you the third axis required to convert
your lathe into a milling machine - the vertical adjustment. Horizontal
adjustments are controlled with the cross slide and depth of cut by
advancing the carriage. To mount the milling attachment, loosen the T-nuts
on the underside of the attachment and slide it onto the T-slots of the cross
slide. The brass bar on the back of the milling attachment registers with the
right edge of the cross slide to ensure squareness of the milling attachment
to the lathe spindle. Loosen the bolts holding the brass registration bar and
lower it over the edge of the cross slide and tighten the bolts. Tighten the
clamping bolts. Any play in the slide's travel can be eliminated by adjusting
the gib on the rear of the milling attachment.

RISER BLOCKS (03J70.35 and 03J70.36)

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You can increase the lathe's capacity by 2" in diameter with the installation
of riser blocks beneath the headstock (03J70.35) and tailstock (03J70.36). The headstock riser block
comes with a taller tool-bit post.

HSS SLITTING SAW (03J70.18)

& ARBOR (03J70.17)
The 2-1/2" dia. slitting saw mounts to the lathe spindle with a 1/2" arbor. The saw is capable of cutting
to a depth of 3/4", with a kerf of .032". The saw should be run at low speed with plenty of cutting
lubricant to keep the blade cool.

6-pc. HSS LATHE TOOL SET (03J70.15)

The 1/4" tools available for the Taig Lathe are ground for cutting mild steel. They will, however, be
suitable for use on other materials such as aluminum, brass, or acrylic. If you plan to work exclusively
on a material other than steel, you should consider buying or grinding a set of tools specifically suited
to it.

Right-Hand, Left-Hand Tools

The right-hand tool is the tool used most often in metal turning. The face of the tool should be nearly
parallel to the work and elevated to be precisely on center. You will find out if it is, after your first
facing cut. If it is not, a small portion near the center will remain. The left point of the tool does all the
cutting, but the rest of the tool "rubs" against the work leaving a good finish. The left and right tool will
take heavy cuts, roughing, as well as leaving a good finish when doing fine work. These tools can
also be used for facing.

Round-Nose Tool
The round-nose tool can be used as a roughing tool, but it does not leave as fine a finish as a right-
hand tool. The round nose is useful when turning work with a shoulder; the 1/16" radius on the end of
the tool will leave an inside radius in the corner of the shoulder to improve the strength of the
turnings.

Boring Bar
This tool is used to open up holes in the face of a turning. It is also the only way to enlarge a hole
absolutely true with the turning because it does not follow the previously made hole, which may have
wandered. The boring bar supplied with the set of six tools requires a pilot hole of at least 1/2" . Be
careful to leave plenty of clearance around the shank of the tool; otherwise, cutting chips may pack
around the tool and force the tool into the workpiece.

Parting Tool
As the name suggests, this tool is used to part off work from the lathe. The parting tool must be set at
90? to the turning axis to maintain side clearance. When parting steel or iron, the lathe should run at

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slow speed and the feed should be coarse and continuous. Use plenty of cutting lubricant. Parting off
brass can be done at higher lathe speeds, without cutting lubricant. Chips of brass tend to fly off the
cutter when parting. Keep your head away from the cut and always wear safety glasses.

Chamfer Tool
When the tool post is set at 90? to the work, you can quickly change to the chamfer tool to put an
accurate 45? chamfer on your work.

USING METAL TOOLS ON THE TAIG LATHE

To give a good finish and to cut effectively, tools must be sharp. They
should be stored so that their edges don't knock against each other. Set
tools into the tool post with cutting edge at center height. Use the tailstock
center as a reference. You will need to place shims under the tool to bring it
up to center height. These shims can be thin metal, card, or paper.

CUTTING SPEEDS
We have provided a table of recommended lathe speeds for common
metals; however, these suggested speeds are for production lathes. Small
lathe speeds can vary somewhat from the recommended ones for
production. The best rule of thumb is "when in doubt, reduce the speed". By
experimentation you will arrive at the proper speeds.

When working with cast iron or brass, you will not need to use a cutting lubricant, but when cutting
mild steel or aluminum, lubricants will improve the cut and finish. Motor oil is adequate. There are
also cutting lubricants specifically formulated for lathe work. Cutting oil is best applied to your work
with a small paintbrush.

HSS MILLING CUTTERS (03J70.31)

These double end-milling cutters enable you to mill slots or faces onto a workpiece held on either the
carriage of your lathe or to the vertical milling attachment. The cutters can be chucked in the collets,
three-jaw chuck, or in the Jacobs chuck. Run the lathe at the speed recommended for cutter diameter
in the adjacent chart. Our 5-piece set includes sizes 1/16", 3/32", 1/8", 5/32", 3/16".

CUTTING SPEED (RPM)

Diameter of Material or Drill High Carbon Cast Iron, Stainless Brass, Bronze,
Aluminum
Size (Inches) Steel Steel Mild Steel
1/16 611 2445 6112 9168
3/32 408 1630 4075 6113
1/8 306 1222 3056 4584
5/32 244 978 2444 3666
3/16 204 815 2038 3057
7/32 175 698 1746 2619
1/4 153 611 1528 2292
3/8 102 407 1018 1527
1/2 76 306 764 1146
5/8 61 244 611 916
3/4 51 204 509 764
1 38 153 382 573
1-1/2 25 102 254 381
2 19 76 191 286
2-1/2 15 61 153 229
3 13 51 127 191
3-1/2 11 44 109 164
4 9.5 38 95 143

ADDITIONAL TOOLS REQUIRED FOR METAL TURNING

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LAYOUT TOOLS: CUTTING TOOLS:

scribe and block center drill
accurate 6" rule set of short drills
calipers files
dividers taps & dies
vernier caliper or micrometer sharpening stone or grinder
machinist's square

7. Woodturning Accessories

2" FACE PLATE (03J72.01)

The face plate is drilled for three #6 wood screws. You can also mount work
to the face plate with double-sided turning tape. One face plate is supplied
with the Wood Turning Lathe.

2-1/2" TOOL REST, BASE AND SWIVEL (03J72.02)

The 2-1/2" rest, base and swivel are supplied with the Wood Turning Lathe;
however, they may be purchased separately for those who want to turn
wood on the Metal Turning Lathe. The tool rest base slides onto the dovetail lathe bed with the swivel
post towards the front. The rear thumbscrew on the base locks the
base in position on the bed. The thumbscrew on the front of the
base locks the swivel in position. The rest height is adjusted with the
thumbscrew on the swivel. For improved resistance from loosening
due to vibration, the setscrew located opposite to this thumbscrew
may be tightened using the hex key provided.

7" DOUBLE TOOL REST (03J72.03)

When turning long work on the lathe, a long tool
rest allows you to work without having to
continually move the rest. The 7" rest comes with
one base and swivel, and uses the rest base from
the 2-1/2" rest supplied with the Wood Turning
Lathe. By adjusting each swivel independently, this
tool rest can be adjusted parallel with the spindle
axis, or at an angle to keep the rest in close contact
with tapered work.

EXTRA BASE AND SWIVEL (03J72.04)

An extra base and swivel are available separately for those who want to use the 7" rest, but do not
already have the 2-1/2" rest.

7/16" CUP AND 3/4" SPUR CENTER SET (03J72.08)

This set is supplied with the Wood Turning Lathe. The 3/4" spur
center mounts to the spindle threads. The removable center pin is
held in place by a setscrew and can be replaced with the 1/2" spur
center (03J72.13) when turning very small spindles. The 7/16" cup
center mounts onto the dead center threads. When using the cup
center, you should put a drop of heavy oil on the cup and center
point to reduce friction.

1/4" CUP AND 1/2" SPUR CENTER SET (03J72.13)

The 1/2" spur center can be held in any chuck, a 1/4" collet, or in the 3/4" spur center by removing its
center pin. The 1/2" spur center is supplied with a flat washer. Place the washer between the 3-3/4"
and 1/2" spur centers; this will protect you and your tools from the exposed teeth of the 3/4" spur
center. When holding the 1/2" center in the 3/4" center, make sure you tighten the setscrew in the
3/4" center.

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Lee Valley Tools - Taig Lathe Instruction Booklet 03J71.00 Page 12 of 12

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http://www.leevalley.com/shopping/Instructions.aspx?p=44583 12/19/2008