credits

Just Gorgeous
credits

Director President of APICCAPS

Editor-in-Chief Paulo Gonçalves
[email protected]
Graphic Design Mário Teixeira (Salto Alto)
Photography Frederico Martins
Styling Fernando Bastos Pereira
Collaboration Catarina Rito, Manuel Arnaut, Patrícia Gonçalves
Special Thanks AICEP Portugal Global
Joaquim Mendonça Moreira
Paula Ascenção Laranja
Adversitising Coordination Ema Aguiar Ramos (Pegada Criativa)

Owner APICCAPS - Portuguese Footwear, Components,

Leather Goods Manufacturers’ Association
Rua Alves Redol 372
Apartado 4643
4011-001 Porto

Tel: +351 225 074 150

Fax: +351 225 074 179
[email protected]

www.apiccaps.pt
www.portugueseshoes.pt
www.portuguesoul.pt

Dep 329938/11
ISBN 2182-2298
Circulation 10.000 copies
Printed by Orgal Impressores

2:3
Conceptual Shoe by Valentim Quaresma
06/EDITORIAL
EDITORIAL 10/THE
THE
SHOES MUST GO ON 13/ table of
RELEASE THE STARS 14/ contents
PORTUGUESE FOOTWEAR
GROWTH IN 2011 16/PORTUGUESE
PORTUGUESE IDOLS
20/ PROTECT ME 36/INÊS
INÊS CALEIRO 39/
TALENT MADE IN PORTUGAL 53/WORLD
WORLD
FOOTWEAR YEARBOOK 54/ ALQUIMIA BY
VALENTIM QUARESMA 56/CONCEPTUAL
CONCEPTUAL
FOOTWEAR 57/PORTUGUESE
PORTUGUESE FASHION
ACCLAIMED 60/PORTUGAL
PORTUGAL FASHION 62/
EDUARDA ABONDANZA 64/MODALISBOA
MODALISBOA
66/WOMEN
WOMEN WEAR LUÍS BUCHINHO 68/HOT HOT
NEW TALENTS 84/GAPI
GAPI AWARDS 86/ LACE
IT UP! 96/SPOTS
SPOTS YOU SHOULDN’T MISS IN
PORTUGAL 98/DISCOVER
DISCOVER PORTUGAL 100/
JOANA VASCONCELOS 102/ GUIMARÃES
104/ CASA DA MÚSICA 106/ AZORES 108/
BARCELOS 109/ FADO 110/ CUSTARD TARTS
4:5
editorial

Paulo Gonçalves Editor in Chief

Editorial
These are challenging times for the overwhelming majority
of economic players worldwide. The slowdown in major
economies may induce a decrease in consumption. History
over the ages, however, allows us to conclude that it is
precisely during the most critical moments that the best
opportunities arise. Portuguese industry seems to be living
one of those periods and it made good use of 2011 to
strengthen its international prestige and conquer market
share from its main competitors.

Get to know the essentials of Portuguese fashion in this

edition of Portuguese Soul magazine. Learn about the
players, the innovations and future bets.

Get also to know a remarkable country with a history

spanning more than nine centuries. A country with tradition,
but permanently reinventing itself. A soulful country called
Portugal.

6:7
backstage

MAKING
OFF
“Protect me”
Boldness. Creativity. Talent.
“Protect me from what I want” is the title of the main
editorial of this edition of Portuguese Soul magazine.

Designed and produced by a team of Portuguese fashion

professionals, it combines the excellence of Portuguese
footwear with the proposals from some of the most out-
standing Portuguese designers.

The final result invites to a journey to a universe of beauty

and magic.

8:9
www.eject-shoes.com
internationalization

Portuguese
Footwear Shakes Up
International Markets
Supported by the Compete Program, the industry will invest 11 million euros to reinforce the
commitment in the internationalization process through a major offensive that will translate into
dozens of image related actions and the presence in major international specialty forums.
There are basically four major goals set for this promotional offensive. To consolidate the position
of Portuguese footwear in foreign markets, to diversify exports destinations, to approach new
markets and to allow new companies to initiate the internationalization process, such are the
goals of the industry, which comprises more than 1,300 companies accounting for more than
32,000 jobs and stands as the most internationalized in the Portuguese economy.
The industry will invest in reinforcing its presence in world-scope fairs
The external trade promotion and exhibitions, such as MICAM and Riva del Garda (both in Italy) and
is the major priority for the GDS (in Germany), in fairs with strong regional impact (Modacalzado in
industry, which exports roughly Spain, Ciff and CPH Vision, both in Scandinavia) and niche events (Bread
95% of its production to over & Butter in Germany, Who’s Next, Mess Around, Midec, Premiere Classe,
130 countries. Therefore, in 2012 Italmoda and Fashion Week in France - each of them aimed at different
more than 140 companies will targets and market segments - The Brandery in Spain, Pure, Moda
participate in more than 60 Footwear and London Fashion Week in the UK).
professional fairs all over the A special note to the huge bet on emerging markets with high growth
world. potential for Portuguese companies, such as Brazil, China, UAE, Japan
and Russia.
As part of this large “charm operation” on a global scale, the Portuguese footwear industry will
reinforce the investment in communication and image actions. Under the “Glamour” motto,
the 2012 campaign will reveal the excellence of the Portuguese offer. With the city of Porto
as backdrop (the photo session took place right at the Town Hall), the choice fell on an all-
Portuguese team (photographer, producer, stylist, models, hair stylists and makeup artists).
Noteworthy was the presence of two major names in Portuguese fashion: models Sara Sampaio
and Kevin Sampaio. Sara Sampaio, currently living in New York, won the 2011 Golden Globe Awards
and Fashion Awards.
In recent years, besides a presence in editorials of the world’s most famous fashion magazines
(Vogue Portugal, Spain and India, Elle, Marie Claire, Biba and Wad France), she starred in several
major international campaigns, such as Axe, Agatha Ruiz de la Prada, Blumarine, Replay Jeans
and Armani Exchange. As for Kevin Sampaio, he’s the face of several reference campaigns, such
as D’Squared2, Macy’s and Boglioli. In addition to the presence in editorials of fashion magazines
around the world, he regularly walks the catwalk for big international brands, such as Armani,
Bottega Veneta, Dior, Dolce & Gabana, Fendi, Gautier Versace, and Trussardi, among others.

10:11
THE
SHOES
MUST
GO ON
As 2012 is expected to be a particularly
demanding year for the overwhelming
majority of economic players at the
international level, the Portuguese footwear
industry is set to shake up the international
markets once more with a large-scale
promotional assault.
 RELEASE
THE STARS
First, we saw the lead actors from Star Wars comfortably wearing
Swear. Luís Onofre would have the honour of designing shoes for the
Princess of Asturias, and Helsar for ‘superstar’ Anastasia. Lately, it is
Michelle Obama’s turn, the most important woman in the world, to
confess being seduced by Portuguese footwear.

Portuguese footwear is literally fashionable Ferreira & Avelar, who holds the Profession Bottier brand, gained the loyalty
and deserves attention from famous of some special customers as well. Production of luxury shoes is growing in
personalities all around the world. Luís Portugal, and names like Nicolas Sarkozy, Hugh Jackman and Michael Bublé
Onofre’s creativity, for example, does not go cannot do without Portuguese footwear.
unnoticed, and after celebrities like Paris Hilton
and Naomi Watts, it was Michelle Obama’s Ferreira & Avelar, was created in 1947 and is based in Santa Maria da Feira,
turn to acknowledge pieces by this Oliveira with a turnover of around five million euros, and is in the hands of the
de Azeméis designer. Luís Onofre gifted two same families of entrepreneurs for three generations. Ferreira & Avelar
pairs of shoes to the American First Lady has invested in the production of high added value shoes, aimed almost
when she visited Portugal. A few months later, exclusively at foreign markets, especially France. It is precisely in the French
Onofre received, a courier, a special letter market that Ferreira & Avelar Footwear Company has consolidated its
embossed with the White House seal. “When prominent position in the luxury footwear industry for men, either through its
I saw the postman with a registered letter own brand, Profession Bottier, or through ‘prestige’ customers.
saying ‘White House’, I couldn’t believe my
eyes,” revealed Luís Onofre. It didn’t influence “We have seen sustained growth,” emphasized Eduardo Avelar, responsible
his humility, though. He learned early on to for the company’s commercial matters. Its confidence in luxury footwear has
ally talent and work ethics, and inherited the been showing results. “We have paid great attention to the selection of raw
company established by and named after his materials and specialized workmanship, particularly in the finishings,” he said.
grandmother, Conceição Rosa Pereira & Co. Ltd. Supplying a high-quality service is another issue of major importance, as
After graduating from the Professional Training Ruben Avelar explained. “We are in permanent contact with our clients, and
Centre for the Footwear Industry (he was it has been through them that we found out that personalities like Nicolas
one of the first Portuguese Hot New Talents), Sarkozy, Hugh Jackman and Michael Bublé had purchased our products.”
Onofre would specialize in Italy and work with
prestigious brands like Kenzo and Cacharel. He
is currently one of the best well-known names
in the Portuguese Footwear sector.
internationalization

PORTUGUESE
FOOTWEAR
GROWTH IN
2011
As it grows, Portuguese footwear industry is becoming
more and more international. Exports account for around
95% of its production. In the first nine months of the
year, Portuguese footwear exports grew by 20%.
Portugal currently exports footwear to 132 countries in
five continents –68% of all countries recognised by the
United Nations.

Still in 2011, Portuguese footwear reinforced its status as the product that
contributes positively to the Portuguese balance of trade, with a trade surplus that
will surpass 850 million euros by the end of the year.

From January to September, according to the Portuguese National Institute of

Statistics, Portugal exported footwear to the value of 1,231 million euros. Imports
have grown 7% to 427 millions euros.

Portuguese footwear exports have been registering growth in practically every

market, particularly within the European Union, in France (a growth of 10.8% to
162 million euros), Germany (21.4% to 113 million euros), and the Netherlands
(22%, to 80 million euros). Sales fell 3.2% in the United Kingdom (to 46 million
euros), but thrived in Italy (a growth of 77% to 19 million euros).

Outside of Europe, growth was also registered in Russia (72.7% to 5.2 million
euros), the USA (21.8% to 4.8 million euros), Japan (28.6% to 4.2 million euros)
and Canada (87.6% to 3.6 million euros).

In the last quarter of the year, this export growth rate should slow down, because
of the worldwide economic crisis. In any case, 2011 will always be a remarkably
successful year for Portuguese footwear in the world markets.ass of Portuguese
footwear in the world markets.

14:15
Portugal currently exports footwear to 132
countries in five continents –68% of all
countries recognised by the United Nations.
people

All around the world, the Portuguese

working abroad achieve success
after success in the rather
competitive Fashion trade.

We couldn’t resist asking:

“What is the best thing about
being Made in Portugal?”
16:17
 PORTUGUESE
IDOL
by Manuel Arnaut

Ana Sofia, model, New York. Armando Cabral, model and Marta Mota, manager of woman
“The cultural heritage we left in the entrepreneur, New York. accounts, Women Management,
World, our language, our cuisine, and “To know that Portuguese is the sixth Paris.
being able to express ‘saudade’ with most spoken language in the world, and “Our culture, our values, and the roots
just one word.” that our emigrants are spread through that make me the person I am today.
140 countries. You are never alone, I have lived in Spain and came to the
Wide eyes, afro hair, perpetually sun- wherever you may be.” conclusion that, although similar to the
kissed skin. With exotic looks and a Spanish, we are different.”
cat-like stride, Ana Sofia is one of the His lengthy resume makes it clear:
best well-known Portuguese models in Armando Cabral is a super model. After her degree, the City of Light
the world. She has been photographed In addition to being a staple on the was the inevitable destination for
for magazines like American Teen Vogue pages of American GQ, he has walked someone who had always felt the
and Glamour, walked the runway for the runways of Calvin Klein, Louis pull of the fashion world. Marta Mota
Narciso Rodriguez and Betsey Johnson, Vuitton and Dior Homme. His latest worked in fashion houses such as
and modelled for brands such as achievements include a Michael Kors Berluti and Zara, lived in Portugal
Victoria’s Secret and Gap. worldwide campaign, photographed by and Spain, and was then invited to
Mario Testino, and becoming the face of join the model management agency
Ana is also as beautiful on the inside as J.Crew. Women Management, in Paris. Marta’s
she is on the outside. While in Portugal, responsibilities include negotiating
she finds time in her busy schedule to Beyond his achievements on the publicity and image rights contracts, as
work on ‘Entre Nós’ (Amongst Us), a runway, Armando, who studied well as deciding in which magazines,
charity project Ana created and which, management in London, has also front covers and editorials the models
through meetings and workshops, proved to be an able businessman. His on the agency’s books will appear. And
brings messages of hope and debates recent footwear line, Armando Cabral what a special lot they are – Women
about a better future to the youth from Shoes, has achieved worldwide success. Management represents the some of
the troubled neighborhood of Outorela, His modern designs, with some old- the biggest runway stars, such as Isabeli
where she grew up. school charm thrown in, may already Fontana, Carmen Kass, Mariacarla
be found for sale in South Korea, Japan, Boscono, Rosie Huntington-Whiteley
China, Canada, Dubai, the United States, and Natasha Poly. Although Marta
the United Kingdom and, of course, in lives in one of the most vibrant fashion
Portugal. capitals of the world, she still misses
walking on the cobblestoned streets
and admiring the sights of Lisbon.
people

Felipe Oliveira Baptista, fashion designer,

Paris.
“To be able to read Fernando Pessoa in its
original version.”

It’s a name that needs no introductions.

Felipe Oliveira Baptista is, right now, the
most respected and well-known Portuguese
designer in the international fashion scene.
Born in the Azores, this designer, for whom
fashion hasn’t always been his life and breath,
won the coveted Hyères Festival prize nine
Felipe Mendes, stylist, Paris. years ago and has been unstoppable ever
“To have a unique, rare and precious heritage.” since. Having worked at Max Mara and Cerruti,
Felipe is currently developing his own brand,
His accent betrays the many years that Felipe has spent living established in 2003, and is the creative
and working in Paris. After discovering a passion for styling while director of Lacoste. His début at his new
working for Maison Martin Margiela, he went on to work for post, during the New York Fashion Week, was
magazines Jalouse and Número. There, Felipe styled incredible described by style.com as “a promising start.
editorials which were photographed by none other than Karl Lacoste turned sleek, chic, and urban.”
Lagerfeld, creative director of Chanel. Although still very young, Although not available for purchase in
Felipe works regularly with the most important fashion and Portugal, the Felipe Oliveira Baptista brand can
design publications, such as British magazine Wallpaper*, be found in renowned stores such as Browns,
American Harper’s Bazaar, and several editions of Número from in London, or Galeries Lafayette in Paris,
around the world. amongst others. There, you will also be able
to find his Summer 2012 collection, already
shown in the City of Light, which reinterprets
sportswear and utilitarian fashion in an
elegant way.

18:19
 Pedro D’Orey, editor, New York.
“I always fly the ‘Made in Portugal’ flag. Our cuisine, our climate and our coast,
along with our genuine elegance, are truly unique.”

Although Pedro is currently involved in the launch of the most anticipated

publication of the year, the Brazilian edition of the iconic Harper’s Bazaar, his
shining path began amongst pots and pans. To feed his secret passion for
cooking, this editor decided to enrol in a culinary degree in a renowned French
school, which led him to meet Giovanni Bourbon, the founder of the Living
section of Vogue Brasil. After working for Vogue Spain, his work as a chef was
placed on the back burner, and D’Orey began “a marathon as a freelancer.” Always
working in areas related to fashion, design and lifestyle, he was one of the first
Sancha Teixeira, Bottega Veneta, Milan. Portuguese to publish in Japan, Australia, Taiwan and China, having contributed to
“To have in our blood the will to discover, several editions of Elle, Architectural Digest Spain, World of Interiors, Vogue Living
to learn and to go beyond our own goals. Australia, Vogue RG and Vogue Homem Brasil. “Bazaar Brasil will be a challenge,
These are characteristics I see reflected in the but we are still at the starting stages. After being invited, it was very fulfilling to
Portuguese and that is what drives me to fight work the Escape section from New York.”
for my dreams.”

Although Sancha worked for three years for a

Portuguese fashion retail group, her studies,
split between England and the United States,
fed her desire for exploring new places. An
MBA in Fashion, in Milan, provided the answer
and also the ticket for the invitation, while she
was still studying, to join the merchandizing
division of the renowned Bottega Veneta
house. Sancha now acts as a liaison between
creative and commercial, focusing on ready-
to-wear lines, women’s footwear and high
jewellery. Her favourite part of her job?
“Meeting with the creative team to prepare
the manufacture of each product: we define
materials, finishings, shapes and silhouettes
for the entire collection. It’s a fantastic
moment, as I have the opportunity to see the
meticulous work that is produced season after
season.”
20:21
Protect me ...
Bomber jacket and t-shirt - RICARDO DOURADO
Jewelry and reading glasses stylists own
 Shoes-EXCEED
Shirt-IURI
Shorts- JÚLIO TORCATO
Jewelry stylists own
22:23
Shoes-SHOES CLOSET
Skirt and blouse-RICARDO DOURADO
Men’s blazer-JULIO TORCATO
Jewelry stylists own
 Shoes-STRENA
Bomber jacket and t-shirt-RICARDO DOURADO
Jewelry and reading glasses stylists own
24:25
Shoes-CENTURY
T-Shirt-RICARDO DOURADO
Shorts-IURI
Bracelet stylists own
26:27
Jumpsuit NUNO BALTAZAR
Jewelry stylists own
 Shoes-SILVIA REBATTO
Dress-LUIS BUCHINHO
Jewelry stylists own
28:29
Shoes HELSAR
Jumpsuit, blouse and pants - NUNO BALTAZAR
Jewlery stylists own
 Shoes-CHIBS
Blazer-JULIO TORCATO
Sweater-HUGO COSTA
Shorts-IURI
Bracelet models own
30:31
Shoes-VIRUS MODA
dress-LUIS BUCHINHO
Jewelry stylists own
Shorts-JULIO TORCATO
Silk bandana stylists own
Bracelet models own

32:33
Shoes-XUZ
Dress and hot pants -ELISABETH TEIXEIRA
Jewelry stylists own
 ...from what I want

FREDERICO MARTINS Photography

FERNANDO BASTOS PEREIRA Styling
PAULO GONÇALVES (APICCAPS) Production
ATELIER PATRÍCIA LIMA Make-Up
VASCO FREITAS Hair
PEDRO SÁ Photography Assistant
NELSON LIMA Styling Assistant
HELENA ALMEIDA Make-Up Assistant
JANI (ELITE), JOSIANE (KARACTER) Model
AND GIL (L’AGENCE)

34:35
t-shirt - RICARDO DOURADO
interview

INÊS
CALEIRO
Inês Caleiro defines herself as a designer whose passion for
exploring new shapes and geometrical structures allows her
to express the emotions of urban adrenaline. She is one of the
young Portuguese talents.

36:37
 The Guava Project started in 2010, when
designer Inês Caleiro, who studied at the
London College of Fashion and worked
with designer Jimmy Choo, chose to
explore the business world after winning
the ‘Best Student Award’.

How did the Guava Project appear? How would you define the general public’s Do you think that the fact that you studied
The Guava Project started when I was in the response? in London and later worked in the US will
USA, and amongst the sketches of pieces of It is fantastic to feel that the public is quite project the brand in foreign markets?
furniture and products, I would also design welcoming. Guava was and has been like Yes, the fact that I studied and worked abroad
shoes as a form of mental therapy. I found a boom of innovation in the Portuguese and the experience that I brought to Portugal
myself holding a complete collection designed, footwear industry, and it is very good to served me well, and will consequently help to
with contacts to factories in Portugal and a feel that the public was looking forward to implement Guava in international markets.
very clear strategic view of what Guava would seeing something as contemporary as Guava. In any case, this knowledge will reinforce the
be and how to implement it both in the Recognition at international level has been a image that Portuguese footwear has abroad.
Portuguese and international markets. motivation for me to keep on coming up with Guava will be another asset to the high quality
and developing new challenges for the brand. established by Portugal.
How would you define Guava as a brand?
I usually define Guava as a Portuguese brand What news can we expect from Guava over
for shoes ruled by the passion for architectural the next few months?
shapes, inspired asymmetry and emotionally In the future, Guava intends to expand its
strong colours. Guava design is a result of the creations with a new line of men’s footwear
fusion between geometrical seduction, urban and continue to surprise with innovating
experience and a new design perspective. design.

Inês Caleiro
 TALENT
‘MADE IN’
PORTUGAL by Catarina Vasques Rito
Os Burgueses, Vítor, Ricardo Andrez, Susana Bettencourt, Estelita Mendonça,
Joana Lima, Fernando Lopes, Hugo Veiga, Iúri, Saymyname (Catarina Sequeira),
Marques Almeida (Marta Marques, Paulo Almeida) or Daniel Dinis are some of the
names present in the main fashion platforms of Portugal. Some showing for the
first time, some having done this for a couple of years, these young designers are
working hard to show that this is the career they want to make a difference in,
through projects that are mature on a design, manufacture and concept level.

To achieve the dream of becoming a designer is not enough to know how to

sew, recycling what one finds at home or browsing through trade magazines. If
the professional goal is simply to know how to sew well and copy what others
create, then there is the potential to be a good seamstress, a career worthy
of few. But becoming a designer and building a brand, be it an author or
commercial one, requires important structural planning. These considerations
are now beginning to become a reality for anyone looking to work in the
fashion business, with harsh competition both inside and outside Portugal.
made in portugal

This new generation soon learns, on the Promoting Portuguese fashion for 20 years, This has been the case with João Estelita
schools where it studies, that to achieve ModaLisboa is the place where designers Mendonça, Fernando Lopes and Hugo veiga
success and recognition in this area it is rely on their creativity and talent to show (which have recently joined forces and
essential to be knowledgeable in marketing, their collections each season before the created the LIV brand), Joana Lima, Susana
corporate communication, management specialized media, buyers (though not as many Bettencourt and many others, becoming
and sales. A brand will not succeed if it’s as one wishes), entrepreneurs and potential the future of fashion made in Portugal. The
not promoted and advertised. Even if it’s not consumers. The LAB platform has become question, however, remains: will they still be
financially viable to have its own physical the place for the new generation, where fresh around in ten years? We don’t know. They
base, new technologies exist that allow these talent show their collections, more or less do have talent, and they do have a strong
young designers to promote their work with well structured, depending on their financial concept. What they need now is for the textile
very little money. The names mentioned above capabilities. In some cases, even with very industry to lose any fear of investing in them,
have been setting themselves apart from all little resources, it is possible to glimpse a even with their small collections. One has to
others both through more conceptual projects, promising future that needs only some capital start somewhere, and that is not with large
directed to a more selected audience, or more investment to thrive. orders, since only large brands and groups are
commercial approaches, designed for mass capable of fulfilling them.
consumption. Both internal and external The Portugal Fashion event, that until recently
markets have room for all these approaches, (around a year and a half) had simply been The Portuguese consumer must also begin to
if these are worthwhile and original, since the a collective show of the new generation, has understand and recognize the talent of this
current demand focus on the unique. dramatically changed with the Bloom project, new generation, and to put aside any fears of
where a large space is now given to new purchasing Portuguese brands and be proud
designers. Here both fashion schools and to wear them. The creative evolution of these
recent graduates are given the opportunity to talents is then largely dependent on the
showcase their latest work, if solid and well interest of the consumers which in turn leads
made. and matures these projects.

The economic crisis is on everyone’s

mind, but the creativity levels in
Portuguese fashion are thriving.
With each edition of ModaLisboa
and Portugal Fashion new names
appear, inspiration solidifies and the
potential of a promising generation
fulfills itself. Projects created with
sales and internationalization
in mind are presented, with the
understanding of their importance
for a successful future.
40:41
companies

Felmini
heading for China

Felmini specializes in the manufacture of

boots for a bold female public, particularly in
major European markets. The search for new
markets is a big challenge, and in the first
quarter of 2012 they will enter the Chinese
market in grand style.

According to Joaquim Moreira, preparations for

entry into the Chinese market in partnership
with a Japanese client have been on-going
for some time. “We will start investing in
China in March,” said the head of Felmini, a
company with 185 employees and sales of
approximately 12 million euros per year.

Despite this investment in new potential

markets, Felmini has been establishing itself
mostly in Europe, and especially in Italy (40%
share of turnover). “We have sold footwear to
500 points of sale in Italy and should soon
reach five million euros.” Innovative design,
quality materials and outstanding service,
particularly with regards to delivery times,
are the mainstays of this Felgueiras-based
company.

42:43
 WHAT’S
UP?
Miguel Vieira Centenário
invests on the external markets launches golf footwear

Portuguese designer Miguel Vieira who had The focus on development and production of
the honour of opening the GDS Fashion Show golf footwear is beginning to show results for
last September, is preparing to invest on the Helsar Centenário. Established in 1941, the company
BRIC markets, especially in Angola with the in the Middle East based in Oliveira de Azeméis exports nearly
opening of a store in the capital, Luanda. The its entire output to countries like Germany,
opening is part of a reinforced strategy for the It is one of the Portuguese companies of Austria, China or Japan. In the golf segment,
internationalization of the brand. present times. After having manufactured it is in the Italian market that stands out the
shoes for Kate Middleton’s mother and sister most.
“We are waiting for the opening of a new for the British Royal Wedding, Helsar prepares
Shopping Mall in Luanda” revealed the to set up business in the Arab countries. In fact, executives from the Italian national golf
designer from S. João da Madeira. 80% of his team saw the line of shoes from Portuguese
invoicing comes from the external markets. “We are planning to open in the Middle East, company Centenário at MICAM and were
Brazil and Russia will be next because they are especially in Dubai”, revealed Patrícia Correia, impressed with the quality of the leather,
“good consumers”, he stressed. The choice of creative director at Helsar and 2nd generation finishing and design. “At the Milan fair we
the external markets will be strengthened by businesswoman. The creation of a bride and had a few models on display with the colours
the opening of a store in Canada (Toronto) and groom line in 2005, allowed the company from of the Italian flag,” explained José Domingos.
another one in Johannesburg, South Africa as S. João da Madeira to broaden their horizons. It was not long before the President of the
a franchisee will be next. Miguel Vieira expects The Portuguese market is still the most Italian Golf Association contacted the company.
to hold a network of five stores by the end of important. But this reality is changing, all the Today, the company’s Century brand footwear
next year. more because Helsar collections are spread walks on all major greens around the world.
over more than 20 countries. Soon, expansion
to Eastern countries will be a reality. The company recently celebrated its seventieth
“The export market is gaining relevance, and anniversary. Investment in new markets is
that is due to the fact that the domestic an immediate priority for a company that
Portuguese market is not going through its currently has 71 employees and a strong
best days”, Patrícia Correia revealed. In result, exports outlook.
Helsar has been growing and in 2010 a growth
of 8% on the turnover compared to 2009 is to
be registered.
companies
Vudu
“enchants” customers

It is an ambitious Project that appeared

precisely two years ago. After ten years of
collaboration with major international brands,
Norberto Costa, based in Felgueiras, launched
Vudu Shoes. After consolidating their presence
in the German market, they are participating in
almost 20 professional fairs. A true “overdose”
that aims at “enchanting” customers all over
the world.

“In the first two years of their existence,

Vudu succeeded in consolidating a relevant
position in the German market. “Today our
aim is to invest strategically in France, Italy
and Scandinavia”, revealed Sara Pignatelli.
Vudu Shoes assumes itself as a “modern and
defying brand, destined to the young public”.
In view of this, the British and American
markets become fascinating because they are
“demanding but with special interest in young
and irreverent products”.

Vudu’s responsible admits that “the difference

is the main signature of the brand namely in
what concerns colour. We have risked a lot!
We do not intend to create two of a kind pairs
of shoes”. Another “fingerprint” of the brand
that specialized in Dip Dye&Wash, is in the
feminine segment. “We have an interesting
growth margin that we desire to explore”, Sara
Pignatelli explained. So, they will privilege
“unique personalized finishing, re-inventing
classical style, in a bold vision of the world’s
De Gier Fly London fashion tendencies”.
invests in new markets store opening in Berlin

It is one of the oldest Portuguese brands After opening in Oporto, Lisbon and Sintra,
of footwear, established in 1935, highly in Portugal, London (United Kingdom) and
specialized in the production of men’s Copenhagen (Denmark) Fly London arrives,
footwear of excellence. It has already reached in Berlin in high style, opening the 6th own
its fourth generation of entrepreneurs and is store. They are about to embrace the Spanish
still going strong. market as well, with the creation of a Fly spot
in Barcelona.
According to Fátima Henriques,
Currently, the German market represents
“manufacturing high-quality footwear has
almost 10% of Fly’s exports, but the objective
always been De Gier’s main concern, by using
is to double that share over the next few
manual procedures and techniques of skilled
years. We would like to point out that Fly
craftsmen, turning each model into a piece
London stores sell not only footwear but also
of art.” From the start, De Gier has assumed
a line of clothing and fashion accessories like
an exporting aptitude, namely by exploring
sunglasses and handbags based on a concept
European markets. It is now “time to invest
of complete look.
in new markets, such as Korea, the United
Arab Emirates, Japan and Russia,” the head
of the company pointed out. Likewise, it will
be “important to consolidate our presence
in major European markets like the United
Kingdom.” “We try to seduce our clients with
fresh ideas, shapes and colours.”

44:45
Metro Sneakers
surprises in the feminine

It’s one of the new Portuguese footwear brands but it’s beginning to stir emotions internationally.

Metro Sneakers was born just a year ago from a partnership between Armando Silva, one the
most iconic Portuguese companies, and former Dutch national soccer team player: Pierre van
Hooijdonk.

The new brand is aimed at “every consumer of luxury sports footwear, like sports professionals,
DJs or fashion followers” Alexandre Tavares says. Presently, Metro Sneakers is sold in Europe,
especially in central countries, like Germany, Belgium and Holland, and in northern countries,
like Denmark and Norway, but also in other key markets such as the USA. It was initially born as
a brand dedicated to male consumers, but it’s on the women’s segment where it has been most
surprising. “It is a very interesting curiosity for a company that for over six decades has always
specialized in manufacturing superior men’s footwear,” noted Alexander Tavares. Indeed, the
new Metro Sneakers models sold out quickly in most of retail outlets, forcing Armando Silva’s
leaders to strengthen the focus on female consumers.

Carlos Santos:
all to surprise the customers
Many stories are told, some by word of mouth,
related to the origin of Bowling. The oldest
ones refer to an English archaeologist who
found on an Egyptian child’s grave, pins and
balls that might belong to the ancestor of this
game. Another legend, this one a little grim,
tells the story of warriors from ancient tribes
that would amuse themselves after the battles
using bones from the thighs of their enemies
to be hit by the skulls launched using the
thumb and another finger in the eyes’ cavities.
It is true that in the 12th century a game of
bowling on the grass appeared in England. Its
aim was to throw the ball the closest possible
to the target without knocking it down. The
popularity of this game was such that King
Eduard forbade its practice, as he feared it
would overcome the bow and arrow, a sport
with military importance at the time. The
modern version of Bowling appeared, however,
around the 4th century in Germany.

It had a religious connotation and was played

using 9 pins placed in a Diamond. Martin
Luther is said to have enjoyed this game so
much that he had a private Bowling track
built at his home. This particularly popular
occupation was in Carlos Santos’s mind when
he defined the new collection of the brand
from S. João da Madeira. “We are always
concerned in presenting new concepts to
surprise customers” we understand that
“bowling style and its historical roots adapt to
our brand”. An excellent service provided to
customers is another fundamental aspect: “We
are consistent with the products we present
and always select high quality materials”,
highlighted the founder of Zarco, Carlos
Santos.
companies

Myst: a Zen brand Footwear Cubanas Patico Investment

Investment in the Middle East in own brand and in external markets
It was born just a few months ago and it aims
to associate the accumulated know-how of Cubanas, the footwear brand detained by For three decades, Evalinda has worked
producing high quality footwear with a very But Fashion Solutions, will invest in the retail exclusively for other major national clients. This
“zen and trendy” attitude. sector. The opening of the first single brand reality would change in the near future, after
store in the Portuguese territory is expected the creation of the brand Patico in February
Myst is a Portuguese brand par excellence, to happen in Lisbon in October, on a “noble 2010.
which inspired by the history of a country area of the city”. A move the Middle East
with nine centuries of existence and many market is due to happen next year with the “The brand appeared almost as a blow-off,
traditions, “offers products with the best opening of franchise stores in Lebanon in a but it is now our main priority”, Vasco Santos
and latest styles of footwear to the highest partnership with a local group connected to admitted. We will start-off with the “German,
standards of quality and comfort,” said the the pharmaceutical business. Spanish and French markets”, he revealed. But,
brand’s General Manager Luis Silva. in the future we are inclined to proceed with a
But Fashion Solutions started their activity
in 1997. Currently, But Fashion detain three “strong global investment”.
Myst’s work rests on three fundamental
own brands (Cubanas, Made In and Sky). They
concepts. On the one hand, it assumes itself Evalinda started exporting only five years ago,
are planning on giving high priority to the
as an innovative brand, namely by investing in namely to some brands of Prestige Catalogues
spreading of the brand Cubanas, said António
new materials and manufacturing processes. such as La Redoute or 3 Suisses. However,
Marques, namely in South Africa, England and
On the other, it favors the know-how after having purchased new premises last
Italy where an investment in the retail business
accumulated over years in the production of year in Oliveira de Azeméis the moment came
is expected. Sales of the brand Cubanas in
footwear of excellence. Finally, it investment “to start the internationalization process”.
the external markets should increase 30%
in the production of high quality footwear, in Patico will privilege “the segment of women
approximately this year, especially in countries
order to ensure maximum comfort. Next year footwear, with an investment in very feminine
like Germany, Italy, France and in the Asian
should be the year for Myst to assert itself in and comfortable lines with special attention to
Continent (Taiwan, Japan, Singapore). The
international markets. finishing”. The turning point happened “in the
brand Cubanas is currently present in 20
countries. GDS in Dusseldorf, and MICAM in Milan where
the brand was present for the first time” Vasco
The first Cubanas store “a project development Santos revealed.
that started 4 years ago” is intended to be
assumed as a “concept-store and we aim at the
opening of more international stores” António
Marques underlined. The merchandising of
accessories such as handbags, costume-
jewellery and sunglasses is also foreseen as
well as the launching of a clothing collection
which is currently being studied.

46:47
Shoes Closet
An appeal to artistic celebration

A new brand, created little more than a year

ago, starts emerging on the national market:
“Our objective was to create an alternative
100% Portuguese brand that would focus on
quality, design and proximity to the consumer”,
Miguel Marques underlined.
In general, the brand defines itself “as an
experiment lab, where the closet becomes
an area of trial and comfort appealing to the
cultural and individual artistic celebration” he
revealed.

The brand’s DNA relies on five different key

aspects: proximity, tendencies, versatility,
know-how and inspiration. After consolidating
their presence in the Portuguese market where
several stores exist already, Shoes Closet is
finalizing the process of internationalization.

25 times Eureka

Eureka has just celebrated its 25th Anniversary.

After decades investing in the industrial sector,
the group from Vizela is now committed to
becoming a reference in the retail sector, and
in recent years it has invested 3.5 million euros
in the creation of new points of sale. In the
2011 edition of the Fashion Awards, held by
the Municipality of Lisbon and Fashion TV, the
Lisbon store would be awarded for “Best Shop
Design”.

Eureka (Alberto Sousa Lda.) was established in

1986 with just 10 employees and it occupied
an area of 200 m2. The following year, through
business development, it had to rent new
facilities and in 1994 its first plant was built.
The following years were of great investment,
first in its technological modernization and
then in starting its internationalization process.
Already this millennium, the investment
focused primarily on the commercial area. In
2004, the brand Philip Sousa is created, and
in 2008 the company completes the process
of certification according to the ISO 9001
standard.

Since 2009, the company invested in the

retail sector by opening its first store in Vizela.
Today, it already has stores across the country
(employing 65 people), especially in the cities
of Lisbon and Porto. For company founder
Alberto Sousa, “a lot of sweat, imagination
and never being satisfied with the work done”
are the key arguments of a company “which
is now a domestic and international reference,
with about 200 workers in its own facilities,
with a area of about 6000 m2.”
companies

Chibs
launched in the women’s segment 60
years after

It is one of the most prestigious Portuguese

footwear brands. It specialized in producing
added value men’s footwear for 6 decades.
This year Chibs was launched in the women’s
segment of footwear. A new concept to
maximise new opportunities.

“The strategy of this brand has been based

from the first moment on technological
innovation, on design and on quality”,
mentioned André Fernandes. Chibs has
focused on the male public but we decided
to present a new collection now that is
addressed to women, even though we use
a very masculine tendency: Oxford models.
Boots mark a strong presence in the new
collection too. “It wasn’t necessary to make
huge changes in production”, remarked the
responsible for the footwear factory Evereste,
for this is an investment in continuity.

48:49
INVESTS IN PORTUGAL
The prestigious brand of luxury products Louis Vuitton will invest in Portugal.

The company specializes in the production of handbags and other luxury articles, and has
purchased an old factory in Calvelo, Ponte de Lima. The premises are currently being renovated,
with an investment of 6.7 million euros.

Currently, the multinational has 40 workers amongst its staff in Portugal, but hopes to create
over 500 jobs. “Renovation works are almost completed, and [Louis Vuitton] will be able to
hire [500 staff] by the end of 2012,” said Vítor Mendes, mayor of the City. According to him,
the company chose Ponte de Lima because of tax benefits that the local authorities decided to
maintain over the next year.

Full production of Vuitton brand is scheduled to start in October.

50:51
 PAIRS OF SHOES PRODUCED IN THE WORLD

20.000.000.000

APICCAPS launched recently the World Footwear Yearbook. It is

an unprecedented report that analyses the major movements in
the footwear sector of the five continents in quantity, quality and
in the evolution of the main world players of this sector.

This report analyses the situation in the footwear sector worldwide Europe distinguishes itself
on different items (Production, Exports, Imports and Consuming) and
evaluates the strategic positioning of the various players. Additionally, By analyzing the Top15 of the main players in this sector, in value
this publication presents a description of the industry/footwear market of exports, 9 countries come forward, among which Italy, Spain
in several countries. and Portugal. In the leather footwear segment for example, these
three countries detain a share of 23% of the overall exports in the
The first edition of World Footwear Yearbook was distributed in over world. However, in the last 10 years all regions except South America
50 countries during the month of September, namely on the main registered a significant increase in values of exports.
international events of this sector, as well as by mail.
Furthermore, the European countries stand out in what concerns the
For the first time, the world production of footwear overcomes the average price of exported footwear. Italy (39.51 dollars by pair of shoes),
barrier of 20 thousand million pairs of shoes. China reinforced its role France (28.31 dollars) and Portugal (25.90 dollars) appear in the first
as key-player, ensuring the production of 62.4%. It is the equivalent to three places. China appears on the end of the list with an average value
12 597 millions of pairs in 2010. In total, the production of the Asian of exports of 3.39 dollars by exported pair of shoes.
continent is 87%.
Consuming increases
The footwear exports worldwide go up to 13 billion pairs of shoes, and
represent an increase of 12% compared to last year. China is the leader In what concerns consuming the two most populated countries in the
by far, with a market share in quantity of 73.4% (the equivalent to 9 world (China and India) represent 15.2% e 11.7%. The American market
930 millions of pairs of shoes exported in 2010). In figures the relative comes forward though. Even if they have much less consumers 13.4%
weight of China is substantially lower, the equivalent to only 38.5% of of the total in 2010 (only China is bigger).
the total amount.
In exports, Europe comes first. In effect, this continent represents a
more dynamic market, absorbing 43% of the imported pairs of shoes
worldwide. Apart from Europe, countries like the USA and Japan
come forward representing respectively 24.8% and 6.5% of the world
quantity of shoe imports.
crazy shoes

THE MAGIC
WORLD OF
VALENTIM
QUARESMA

54:55
Wealth and longevity are two goals that alchemists tried to achieve through a creative process connecting chemistry,
anthropology, astrology, magic, philosophy, metallurgy, mathematics, mysticism and religion. Using some of these sciences
as metaphors, Valentim Quaresma, a Portuguese artist presently living and working in Lisbon, has created a collection
aiming, on the one hand, to better understand the core of his work, and secondly, to develop new creative processes and
formulas to address issues that are inspiring to his creative universe. Using materials such as glass, acrylic, anodized
aluminum and nickel plated brass some masterpieces were created, just like alchemy.
CONCEPTUAL
FOOTWEAR

In Portugal, he is a complete stranger. In the British capital, he found enough

Abroad, he is a stylist of steadily inspiration to graduate as a footwear
expanding reputation. Born in Porto, Gil designer (at Cordwainer’s Technical College,
Carvalho travelled to London to pursue now absorbed into the London College of
a degree in architecture, but he soon Fashion). He won several prestigious awards
became fascinated by the world of and worked with elite teams, including
footwear. Vivienne Westwood. With a company and
his own studio, Gil Carvalho’s footwear has
received attention from some international
stars, such as Cameron Diaz, Elizabeth Hurley
and Madonna.

Gil Carvalho focuses on limited series,

where the materials and the originality
of the products make the difference. His
talent is easily recognizable in the proposed
conceptual footwear (see images).

56:57
 PORTUGUESE
FASHION
For the second year running, the
ACCLAIMED
Lisbon City Council and Fashion TV
elected the best professionals of
Portuguese fashion. In a ceremony
held at the Tivoli Theatre, in Lisbon,
Nuno Baltazar, Luís Onofre and Os
Burgueses were honoured.

Luís Onofre

Nuno Baltazar, the talented designer from The award for ‘Best International Brand’ went
Porto, won the award for ‘Best Designer’ in the to Lacoste, while Eureka, which just celebrated
Fashion Awards Portugal 2011. He is one of the 25 years in the business, won in the ‘Best Store
best Portuguese designers, and his focus is Design’ category.
on very feminine collections that stand out for
their elegance and refinement. In the media awards, prizes went to Anabela
Becho (Press) and José Cabral (Digital), writer
Luís Onofre was also one of the highlights, and photographer of blog O Alfaiate Lisboeta.
having won the prize for ‘Accessory Design’.
The ‘Cinderella’ shoes created by this Entrepreneur Paulo Nunes de Almeida was
designer from Oliveira de Azeméis impressed awarded the ‘Fashion TV Special Award’ for
the 14-element strong professional jury. In “his invaluable contribution to the Portuguese
the ‘Best New Talent’ category, the duo Os fashion industry,” as per the Fashion Awards
Burgueses, whose members Mia and Pedro press release. Paulo Nunes de Oliveira is
Eleutério participated in ModaLisboa for the also the vice-president of the Portuguese
first time in March, were acclaimed as the Entrepreneurial Association (AEP), president of
winners. For the second time running, the ‘Best the AEP Foundation, president of the General
National Brand’ award was given to Lanidor. Council of EXPONOR Brazil, and vice-president
of the General Council of the Portuguese
In the ‘Best Model’ categories, Sara Sampaio Entrepreneurial Confederation.
(Female), twins Jonathan and Kevin (Male)
and Margarita Pugovka (New Face) won
the honours, while Mário Príncipe (Best
Photographer), Paulo Gomes (Best Editorial
Editor), Antónia Rosa (Best Make-up Artist)
and Helena Vaz Pereira (Best Hairdresser)
saw their outstanding work in the past year
acknowledged.
WE WANT TO BE
NUMBER ONE!

www.telyoh.eu
catwalk

PORTUGAL FASHION

Miguel Vieira (Summer 2012)

60:61
 With exports growing at a good pace, the footwear industry is literally in
fashion. On the catwalk of Portugal Fashion, it left no one indifferent. Also
noteworthy are the collections of several Portuguese designers, such as
Fatima Lopes, Filipe Oliveira Batista, Luis Buchinho, Luis Onofre, Miguel Vieira
or Storytailers.

Models that breathe The new women’s Always progressive, For the warm seasons For the first time on
comfort and clarity collection from Dkode never conventional, Fly of the “one thousand stage at Portugal
in design. Such is the is inspired by a retro London’s Summer 2012 and one” colors, Fashion, and focusing
proposal from Atelier contemporaneity. collection is an eclectic Nobrand presents “The on typically Portuguese
do Sapato, one of the Revisited classics are combination that offers Peacewalker Collection.” raw materials, such as
Portuguese brands of reinvented for the models perfect for In an irreverent cork, wood or leather,
the moment, for the modern world. Natural everyday life, but also combination of Patico’s collection for
coming summer. In the materials contrast high heeled lines full materials, the collection the Summer of 2012
new collection, flat and with hight tech details. of glamor and style, comes out naturally appeals to female
high heeled sandals In this collection one always keeping intact “native”, respecting simplicity and comfort in
mingle with men’s can find natural and the brand’s unique classic American a varied range of warm
classic and dance shoes technological materials, spirit. In the women’s moccasins and British colors, in ambitious
in a complete, balanced randomly combined... in segment, lines with oxfords, reinventing and bold shapes, with a
and exciting collection. a Neo Craft movement modern silhouettes and them in openly boho mixture of irreverence
Binding welts, metal with an urban distinctive shapes are and retro-clean trend. and fantasy.
fasteners and washed touch. This is Dkode associated with Disco This collection reflects
leather soles are some recycling materials inspired proposals with the relentless pursuit
of the usual details from while searching for wooden platforms of freedom and return
Atelier do Sapato that new textures and and acrylic heels. For to Nature that summer
will stand for next year. compositions. Vibrant the male audience, brings after the wintry
colors and aged Fly combines “casual days. In a vibrant palette,
appearance materials looks” with styles that the collection radiates
ensure an exasperated convey individuality and blues, reds and oranges.
freshness. Dkode will originality inspired up to Right in its second line
show for the first time classical models that are of colors it presents their
at Portugal Fashion its differentiated by their derivations into yellows
proposals for the male vintage finish. and greens, while never
audience, in an eclectic forgetting more natural
mix of casual style, tones, which have been
without forgetting more asserting themselves
classical models, shaped as neutral, like black,
through their volume browns, grays and
and proportion. beiges.
catwalk

by Catarina Vasques Rito

EDUARDA
ABBONDANZA
Intensifying the Portuguese fashion is an area in rapid
creative growth. However, it appears
You have been in the Fashion world for
over 20 years. What has evolved for the
internationalization of that entrepreneurs and buyers will not better, and what changed for the worse?
ModaLisboa take a chance on well-known or on new
designers. What can be done to change
There was some evolution over these 20
years. I think the 90s were a turning point
this? because of the European Union funds given
I wouldn’t say that they don’t take chances; to Portugal for the development of industry,
we’ve been seeing improvements in but they were not used properly. 20 years is a
comparison to the past. The new generation of long time, though, and we managed to change,
designers, such as those on the LAB platform, paradigmatically, from a textile industry to a
come fully prepared to take on a market fashion industry. I don’t think anything has
with different systems of investment and become worse, but there should have been
sales that didn’t exist in the past. Today you a much larger growth if Portugal had not
can find incentives and programmes for new maintained a smallholding logic for so long,
companies with support in different business and if organizations had worked together
areas. I’m not saying this works perfectly. There for the economic growth of the country,
are many things that could be better, like, for something we’re seeing now as a way of
example, the bureaucracy, which despite many surviving.
government reforms, remains slow, and the
fact that the western world in general and
Portugal in particular are going through an
economic crisis. Since there are no magical
solutions to automatically change things,
Portugal must understand that the fashion
industry can be a very powerful economic
motor and, as such, we should support it,
protecting its brands and putting in place
incentives to creation, and not just to the
development of technology.
62:63
 Her name is fundamentally connected to
Portuguese fashion, as she is responsible for
the most important platform for creativity
made in Portugal. Along with Mário Matos
Ribeiro (currently working on other projects),
Eduarda Abbondanza founded ModaLisboa
20 years ago, where twice a year the cream
of Portuguese fashion design is shown. A
Lisbon native, former designer, mother and
teacher, Eduarda Abbondanza strives to
promote and expand Portuguese fashion
as a whole, and so we asked her opinion on
the current state of this sector, and on what
needs to be done to achieve a successful
internationalization, as was done with the
footwear industry.

What would you like to change in Footwear is one of the sectors that have Portugal is being sought again by large
ModaLisboa, beyond financial issues? been more successful at trading abroad international brands and product buyers
Accelerating its internationalization, which during the past three years. Do you to create and produce both textiles and
would benefit everyone, Portugal most of all. think the changes made by this industry footwear. Could this be a sign that new
could be applied to the fashion sector designers may have a future working in
(restructuring, researching which markets the industry?
to invest in, being present at international Yes. The investment in design, creativity
fairs and other platforms)? and innovation was always central to the
The footwear industry has always been one success of every brand, keeping in mind both
of the most traditional in Portugal, and for communication and strategic marketing.
the past three years it has shown it has a
fairly well thought-out strategic plan. And What pleases you in this successful path,
it’s one that has been producing results. The of international development, of footwear
fashion industry is larger and more complex. brands?
The 90s should have been used to restructure I am happy to note its example that could and
the sector and that didn’t happen. Now, new should be followed by other areas.
brands are appearing and industries that are
unable to adapt to the future are dying. This As a woman of fashion and a fashionable
is part of the renovation of the industrial woman, what do you think is lacking in this
fabric. There are many things that can be sector?
achieved at this time, such as encouraging The creation of more brands, since a brand
our protectionist side in what concerns our always adds further value to the product.
manufacture, which would make the heads
of industry pay more attention to our fashion What are your favourite brands?
designers. Carlos Santos, Armando Cabral, Eureka when
partnering with Miguel Flor and Nuno Gama,
Miguel Vieira, Ana Salazar, Nuno Baltazar, Fly
London, and many more.
catwalk

Gentlemen’s Only
by Manuel Arnaut

The new 2012 Summer collections have already been revealed by ModaLisboa. Impeccable
menswear collections and hot new talent on the LAB runways promise to raise temperatures all
around.

“Portugal is a country with a very strong menswear tradition and, as such and for a long time,
I have asked myself why there aren’t more designers working in this expanding market”. These
were the concerns of Eduarda Abbondanza, ModaLisboa’s president, but also certainly in the
minds of consumers of Portuguese fashion. At least that was the case until the 37th edition of
the most important event of national style. Thankfully for gentlemen everywhere, and following a
trend that has been brewing in the cauldron of Portuguese fashion, the Summer of 2012 marks
a turning point. Never have the menswear collections shown such levels of sophistication and
growth potential, even when compared to womenswear.

Perfection arrived ‘dressed’ in many ways. On the more innovating side, the highlights were
collections by Alexandra Moura (this time stronger in menswear) and by LAB youths Daniel Dinis
and Ricardo Andrez. Inspired by urban environments and films like ‘Wassup Rockers’, Ricardo
Dourado gave us one of the high points of this edition, showing a progressively stronger and
extensive menswear line, with a great deal of commercial potential.

Success in sales is an essential part of business, and it appears that our designers known how
to read the signs of an ebullient market. Although many designers mention their difficulties in
selling their creations to multi-brand stores, several new quality spaces dedicated to menswear
appeared recently, such as Wrong Weather, Por Vocação, and Fátima Mendes stores in Porto, and
new Fashion Clinic and Espaço B stores in Lisbon.

If, on the one hand, well-made sportswear can be a challenge, classically tailored menswear is
the ultimate show of strength. Unlike some womenswear presentations, which could do with
some editing and benefit from better manufacture, designers such as Miguel Vieira and Nuno
Gama rose above the rest with mature collections, on the level of a Portuguese Saville Row. The
former was inspired by the glamour of Capri, with a more structured silhouette, bursting with
colour, profusely accessorised, and showcasing rigorous tailoring. Nuno Gama, making a stand
against the current crisis, opted for a back-to-basics approach, highlighting the blazer and the
“impecáble” suit, as described in his press release.

64:65
Where there’s creativity
there’s hope

MODALISBOA
by Manuel Arnaut

Gabriela Pinheiro, fashion editor of men’s The Marques Almeida duo, which explored the
magazine GQ, noted the effort and attention potential of denim and suede (perhaps a bit
given to tailoring and to the seduction of a too much) is a good example of this. Before
growing male public. “Since the Winter of ModaLisboa, the collection designed by the
2010, when runaways were filled with outfits pair who worked for Vivienne Westwood/
of impeccable cut, international designers have Anglomania and Preen had already been
rekindled the cult of the suit,” she says. “This shown at Fashion East, during London Fashion
‘dandy’ trend allows brands to sell expensive Week. The Saymyname runway, by Catarina
suits, cufflinks, scarves, waistcoats, tie clips... Sequeira, showed parkas with tulle, well-
Our designers wanted to jump on that structured waistcoats and acrylic accessories
bandwagon and we have proved, yet again, that can be purchased in places like Hong
that the Portuguese can produce clothing Kong, Japan, Italy, the United Kingdom and the
like no one else. Sometimes the problem is to United States.
know which line to follow.”
With Vítor, based in Germany, the mood was
In addition to strong menswear collections, nomadic, inspired by the gipsy community. His
ModaLisboa showcased new fashion names collection showcased patchwork made from
through the LAB platform, a well-tuned radar thousands of pieces of fabric taken from his
for discovering fresh talent. “This platform own wardrobe, which, at least in regards to the
is essential for the constant renovation and material, seemed like a step backwards after a
discovery of the new blood that the fashion Winter collection with excellent knitted pieces.
industry needs,” notes Eduarda Abbondanza.
“To secure a spot in the line-up, brands must There is no need, however, to go abroad to
produce or sell in Portugal. Usually, several achieve success. Even with a firmly planted
meetings are needed and negotiations may foot in Portugal (and rave reviews by the
take more than a year. It’s not relevant to media), the duo Os Burgueses explored a
invest in and support brands that might go out palette of white, rose and grey, creating casual
of business.” pieces with a twist. If this was the first act of
their “new world opera”, we can hardly wait for
Along with a well-structured strategic plan, their performance next season.
large doses of creativity and the will to take
chances are essential. These characteristics
weren’t lacking in several designers that,
although young, have already proven
themselves in more competitive markets.
design

WOMEN
WEAR
LUÍS
BUCHINHO
by Patrícia Gonçalves

For a practical, urban woman with a He is an essential name in Portuguese fashion. Dresses are assumed as the main piece of the
very feminine attitude and who knows More than two decades after starting his feminine wardrobe, with a soft color palette
what she wants. With no age limit. The career as a fashion designer, Louis Buchinho dominated by pastel colors, pink, beige and
creations from Portuguese fashion keeps on winning several awards for the way white, contrasting with the patterns and sun
designer Luis Buchinho have long he dresses women, creating collections of yellow. “Trends for the coming season are
convinced the Portuguese. Already clothes that accent femininity. the return to a sweeter woman, but without
represented in Spain and being a Early on, the designer chose to create simple forgetting her vibrant and energetic side,”
regular presence at the Paris fashion clothes, without extravagance, that can be explains Luis Buchinho.
week, the future is about increasingly easily used in any situation, favoring prêt- The designer’s collection is also based on
promoting the brand abroad. à-porter, although adding some elements of sport-inspired pieces revisited, with slim
high couture. With a distinctly cosmopolitan cotton shorts and pants with zip and lace
and contemporary design, Luís Buchinho’s details, bicolored and tricolored graphics. The
creations appeal to different audiences and straight lines of the light, practical dresses
the designer therefore believes his models and cigarette pants play with the chosen
have no age limit. “When I design I do not materials: cotton with silk, cotton twill, linen
worry about the client’s age, only with the final gauze, silk and cotton jersey. “These are light
proposal. The same pair may be purchased and fluid materials that dance along the body,
by a 20-year old woman and by a 60-year with draped forms, slightly contrasting with
old one. The only difference is that they will some more structured screens and the more
wear them in different contexts and possibly architectural forms of the coats,” he explains.
with different accessories,” he says. That’s Multifunctional models that, depending on
maybe why wearing Luís Buchinho may prove which accessories are coordinated, can be
a pragmatic and intelligent choice: “A woman worn in a cocktail or simply on everyday life.
who wears my clothes has a wardrobe made
up of different brands, but she chooses mine
as a top complement. It is basically a consumer
who pays great attention to the timelessness
of the pieces, since my coordinates can easily
transit from one season to another, as they are
not too rigid in terms of trend”.
The fashion designer’s proposals for Spring
/ Summer 2012 respect the brand’s concept.

66:67
Proposals for next season
For the next Spring / Summer season, however, Louis Buchinho’s work goes beyond women’s
fashion, presenting proposals for the “urban, city and very pragmatic man.” At the same time, the
designer has been presenting lines of accessories - he even has a partnership with renowned
footwear brand Goldmud - to accompany his collections.
With a studio and a shop in the city of Porto, Luís Buchinho prepares the path to
internationalization. He is currently exporting to Spain already, but other markets lie ahead: “It’s
a path which is built very slowly and with great perseverance, but one of my goals is to broaden
horizons internationally.” Even because Portuguese fashion is good and is becoming a reference
in international markets, in terms of quality, but also at the level of creativity and innovation.
“Portugal already has a significant number of new designers. In addition, we have a huge asset:
high quality manufacturing. Being aware of international events is enough to realize that made
in Portugal is still an asset. We have very good manufacturers at level of textile and footwear,
as proven by top international brands turning to our country to have most of their productions
manufactured,” he alludes.

Renowned designer Luís Buchinho was born in

1969. Fashion came as a “fluke” and he early
showed his creative strengths. He finished his
training in fashion design at CITEX - Textile
Industry Professional Training Center in 1989
and in June 1990 he won the first prize for
young designers. In the same year, he began
his relationship with the company JOTEX, with
which he collaborated for 19 years. Nine years
later, in 1999, at Moda Lisboa - one of the
biggest fashion fairs in Portugal - awarded
him for creating the best women’s collection
and he was also voted best creator at the Look
Awards. More recently, in 2010, Luís Buchinho
won the award for best designer at the
Fashion Awards Portugal, and in May 2011 was
voted the best Portuguese designer.

The designer presently achieved an prominent

place in the world of fashion and is therefore
present in several exhibitions, including the
Paris fashion week, being also one of the most
sought after fashion designers in Portugal. The
future, constantly under construction, is still
about showing his creations on the catwalk,
gradually conquering markets and fans of the
«Luís Buchinho style». Soon, the Autumn /
Winter collection will be here. Being aware is
all it takes...
68:69
 sandals-CÁTIA COSTA
silk blouse, mesh top and mesh skirt-Luciana Teixeira
swarovski crystals choker stylists studio

70:71
sequined dress- LIV by Fernando Lopes e Hugo Veiga
metal rings, perspex bangles and metal cuff stylists own
 ankle boots-SARA ALVES
bathing suit, mesh dress and
silk collar-Luciana Teixeira
swarovski crystals cuff stylists studio
vintage sunglasses

72:73
sandals-ARMANDO PINTO
printed top-H&M
pleated mesh dress-Luciana Teixeira
vintage metal chokers
74:75
ankle boots-MARIA JOÃO DIAS
neoprene jacket-LIV by Fernando Lopes e Hugo Veiga
silk pleated shorts-H&M
perspex bangles and metal bracelets stylists own
 shoes-SARA ALVES
sequined dress- LIV by Fernando Lopes e Hugo Veiga
metal rings, perspex bangles and metal cuff stylists own

76:77
 FREDERICO MARTINSPhotography
FERNANDO BASTOS PEREIRAStyling
Production
PAULO GONÇALVES (APICCAPS)
Make-Up
ATELIER PATRÍCIA LIMA
Hair
RUI ROCHA
Photography Assistant
PEDRO SÁ
NELSON LIMAStyling Assistant
HELENA ALMEIDA Make-Up Assistant
MARGARITA (BEST MODELS) Model

78:79
80:81
NEW
OPPORTUNITIES
World population should grow over 30% There are many consensual elements across
by 2030, going from 6.1 billion people in various demographic diagnostics completed,
2000 to 8.1 billion people in 2030. Adding worldwide, in recent years. A fall in fertility,
to that, the population is aging at an increase in life expectancy and overall global
accelerated rate. A new scenario that is population aging are three mega-tendencies
creating new commercial opportunities. found.

The world population will increase

substantially, seeing as the African and Asian
continents will boost this growth. On the other
hand, in the more developed countries, namely
in Europe, a population decrease will be seen.

During this century, the proportion of people

over the age of 60 will triple, going from 10%
in 2000 to 32% in 2100. In Western Europe,
almost half of the population (46%) will be
over 60. These demographic changes will
intensify in the next two decades in Europe,
North America, China, Japan and Russia hitting
the peak sometime close to 2030.
This is, indeed, a new reality that society will Various footwear companies already seem to be aware of this phenomenon. It is the case of
have to respond to in the least space of time. Comforsyst SA. In the last years, the company has radically changed its business model. The
Immediately, seeing as the aging population bold and tall high heels that were the companies trademark for over three decades gave way to
will have a direct effect on the work market comfortable and elegant soles, with the launching of Softwaves. Marcelo Santos explains that
and the medium term medicine area. It is, “the business model had exhausted itself”. Thus, the new brand started to invest “in a global
equally, about a market niche that is important target audience, less sensitive to fashion and one that privileges comfort and well-being”. The
to companies that know how to potentiate the world is changing and change underway could result in excellent business opportunities for
new opportunities. companies willing to take the chance.

Cindicalfe also “faces the new needs of the population as an opportunity to develop ever more
sophisticated shoes, in terms of productive process and materials”, revealed André Oliveira. For
that reason the Flex & Go. Brand was created. Generically, “Cindicalfe is a flexible company in
productive terms and that has specialized in the production of comfort footwear and seeks to
create propositions of value to demanding customers”.
Generally speaking, those responsible for Cindicalfe view that the new demographic tendencies
are an opportunity. In today’s day and age, the elderly “are clearly more demanding and seek
comfortable items, of quality, without neglecting fashion tendencies. Customizing the product for
each customer could become, as such, a key point”.

On the same viewpoint, Kyaia (one of the largest corporate groups of the footwear industry in
Portugal) is investing in this market segment with great potential and, in 2007, they created the
Softinos brand. A brand that presents a product of comfort, that privileges the best shapes and
natural raw material, namely very soft leathers, to the customer. The priority is to present an
excellent product, captivating an emerging market segment.

With a long history in this market segment, Ropar since its early days invested in the Arcopédico
brand. “We have come to work very specifically in the “Over 50” market”, revealed Erico Parodi.
An experience that allows them to conclude that “there will be an even bigger offer of products
in this market segment”, reason for which “the demands of the buyers should excel” and will
proceed itself to a “restructuring of offer”. A new reality that emerges worldwide. The Portuguese
footwear companies seem to be on the front row.

82:83
 GAPI AWARDS

Portuguese brands honoured in Germany

After Porto (MOCAP), Madrid (Modacalzado) and Milan (MICAM), it is Dusseldorf’s
turn (GDS). Six Portuguese brands were honoured in Germany for their innovating
characteristics, four of which for the first time.

The wooden clog collection by Xuz was one of the highlights, winning the ‘Revelation Brand’
award. Xuz was launched three years ago by Carmo Alvim and Rita Melo with the goal of “going
back to our roots,” in a remake of clogs used in the past. The boots, clogs and sandals have a
wooden base and are handmade “to avoid mass production,” revealed Carmo Alvim.

Portuguese brand Profession Bottier also won Cohibas, Cubanas and Telyoh were honoured in For the first time, GAPI prizes honoured a
for the first time in Dusseldorf, in ‘Prestige the ‘Design’ class in Men, Women and Children ‘new talent’. The winner was Eugénia Elisabete
Colection’ class. Originating in Santa Maria categories. André Fernandes considers that Sousa Tavares, a graduate of the Footwear
da Feira, the brand invested in a luxury men’s “receiving the Innovation prize means that and Leather Goods Designer Course from the
footwear line and caught the attention of VIPs the strategy developed in terms of collection Professional Training Centre for the Footwear
like Nicolas Sarkozy and Michael Bublé. Ruben and brand work has quality and should be Industry.
Avelar considers that “the daily work, attention continued, bearing in mind that Cohibas is in Over the last few years, the Innovation in
to detail, selection of quality materials and a highly-competitive market.” For the head Footwear Industry Prizes, an initiative of the
providing pieces suited to each customer of Cohibas, the diversity of proposals and CTCP (Technological Centre for Footwear in
is what makes Profession Bottier a very the possibility of personalizing each article Portugal) and of the INPI (National Institute
innovating brand”. Another deciding factor is make Cohibas a key brand. “We’ve attained for Industrial Property), together with GAPI
the combination of quality, good service and the necessary stability to proceed to new (Industrial Property Supporting Office) have
modern designs with traditional techniques projects,” highlighted Andre Fernandes. As already rewarded over 30 Portuguese brands.
that ensures the presentation of a product of for Cubanas, it received, for the first time, the
the highest quality. ‘Footwear Oscar’.For the first time, GAPI prizes
distinguished a “new talent”. The winner was
Eugénia Elisabete Sousa Tavares, graduate of
the Course of shoe and leather goods designer
from the Professional Training Centre of the
Footwear Industry.
84:85
beauty

Lace it up!

86:87
88:89
90:91
 FREDERICO MARTINS Photography
FERNANDO BASTOS PEREIRA Styling
ATELIER PATRÍCIA LIMA Make-Up
RUI ROCHA Hair
PEDRO SÁ Photography Assistant
NELSON LIMA Styling Assistant
HELENA ALMEIDA Make-Up Assistant
ZHENYA (BEST MODELS) Model

92:93
“I CARRY INSIDE MY
HEART, AS IN A SAFE
SO FULL IT CANNOT
BE CLOSED, ALL THE
PLACES I HAVE BEEN
TO, ALL THE HARBOURS
I ARRIVED TO, ALL THE
LANDSCAPES I WATCHED
FROM WINDOWS OR
PORTHOLES, OR FROM
DECKS, DREAMING,
AND ALL THAT, SO
MUCH, IS TOO LITTLE
FOR WHAT I WANT.” From
“The Passing
of the Hours”
(Álvaro de Campos)
portugal

PLACES YOU
SHOULDN’T MISS
WHILE IN
PORTUGAL

96:97
A country with nine centuries of history,
full of tradition, enchanting landscapes
and cultural riches. Be surprised by a trip
to Portugal.
portugal

DISCOVER
PORTUGAL
You will spend memorable times.

You can start by visiting the North of the

country. See the Castle of Guimarães – the
birthplace of Portugal. Take the opportunity
to witness Portuguese Baroque in all its
splendour at São Francisco Church and
at Clérigos Tower. Those are monuments
you definitely cannot miss in Porto. Still at
‘Cidade Invicta’, visit Ribeira (quayside) or
Lello Bookshop, one of the oldest and most
beautiful bookshops in the world. Indulge in
the natural beauty of Gerês National Park
and visit the Mateus Palace near Vila Real.
The Douro region, which was designated
as a World Heritage site by UNESCO, is a
must-see. Be amazed by the magnificent
landscapes and discover the essence of Port
Wine. Don’t forget to stop by other cities,
such as Braga and Ponte de Lima.

Continue to the Centre of Portugal, where

you will find the University of Coimbra, one
of the oldest in Europe. It will guide you
through this city of students. The ruins of
the Roman city of Conimbriga is very close
to Coimbra, and will take you back in time
to when the Romans ruled the Iberian
Peninsula.

98:99
 Mosteiro dos Jerónimos Torre de Belém

Castelo de Guimarães

Once you arrive to the capital of Portugal, Queluz National Palace, Mafra National Further south, indulge in the sights of
Lisbon, Jerónimos Monastery and Belém Palace and Convent, Castle of Almourol, Marvão and Monsaraz. They are walled
Tower are two not-to-be-missed monuments Convent of the Order of Christ in Tomar and villages where hours lull by and time is never
to the history of Lisbon and Portugal. Castle of Óbidos are other places of worship enough to enjoy the endless landscapes. At
They are both the product of one of our that you absolutely must visit. At Batalha Évora’s Roman Temple and at Vila Viçosa’s
most significant eras, the Age of Discovery. Monastery, Old Testament kings, angels, Ducal Palace, you will be told worthwhile
Very close to Lisbon, another mandatory prophets and saints invite you to explore one stories of past times. Don’t miss Alentejo.
destination is the Pena National Palace, in of the most fascinating gothic monuments
Sintra. in Europe, dating from the Late Middle Ages.
Don’t forget to see Alcobaça Monastery,
a true masterpiece, designated as World
Heritage by UNESCO.
Mosteiro de Alcobaça

Óbidos

Palácio Nacional de Pena

Complete your journey through the Later on, take the opportunity to visit the You can create a complete itinerary, or
Portuguese mainland heritage at the Archipelagos of the Azores and of Madeira. you can always come back, time and time
Fortress of Sagres, where the history of Visit Lagoa das Sete Cidades in São Miguel again. Get acquainted with the habits and
Prince D. Henrique is celebrated. At the Island (Azores) and enjoy its breathtaking hospitality of the Portuguese people and
south-westernmost part of the European views. The volcanic landscapes of Pico Island, spend a night at a rural Bed & Breakfast or
Continent, you will be impressed by the the highest point in Portugal, are dazzling. at a Manor House, or even in one of the well-
vastness and immensity of the sky and of Madeira is a green oasis in the Atlantic known Pousadas.
the ocean. The beaches in the Algarve are Ocean. The endemic laurel forests are as
stunning. impressive as is Pico Ruivo.
people and arts

She was born in Paris 40 years ago and she is currently

one of the maximum exponents of the world of
contemporary visual arts. Her work is as vast as it is rich
and in 2012, hers will be the picture on display at the
Chateau de Versailles.

JOANA
VASCONCELOS
You are one of the maximum exponents of In what way is culture still a means of It appears you have a close relationship
the Portuguese visual arts. When did your promoting Portugal in the world? with footwear, in a sense that one of your
relationship with art begin? Culture is what distinguishes peoples. It most emblematic works appeals to the
My relationship with art comes from my is something that defines them, a sign of imaginary symbol of the shoe. What is the
family many of which are connected to arts. identity. Portuguese culture is so rich and full image you have of the footwear sector in
However, I cannot say that I always wanted of good examples in jewellery, gastronomy, Portugal?
to be an artist. The desire of becoming an arts, music, and so on that it becomes The Portuguese shoe sector is an interesting
artist came later on as a result of a personal attractive to the outside world too. If the example on the Portuguese industrial
search. State insists on not being responsible for structure. It is highly oriented to exports
supporting culture they will be making a and it is very competitive, sophisticated
In a general manner, how would you major mistake with serious damages for the and creative. I am a proud consumer of
describe your work? future of arts. Portuguese footwear.
I would characterize my work as being
joyful, communicating, inquiring, open and On the international plan where can we
challenging. see the works of Joana Vasconcelos in
2012?
Are the traditions and Portuguese culture In the summer of 2012 I will expose my
your main source of inspiration? Works at the Chateau de Versailles which is
My sources of inspiration are much more a great honour and a huge challenge. An
embracing than that. I inspire myself mainly individual exhibition is also planned in New
on everyday life, on what surrounds me; York in September and there’s a good chance
being Portuguese and living in Portugal, it is that I might have a big itinerary exhibition in
only natural that references to Portuguese Brazil in the beginning of 2012.
tradition and culture should be present in my
works too. But even if I use local references
I always try them to have a global reach. The
heart of Viana is a local symbol, but a heart
is always universal.

100:101
culture

Lights; Camera; Action.

In 2012, Guimarães will be designated
a European Capital of Culture. This is a
catalyst for development of the region,
with culture, in its broadest sense, as
the main drive of this transformation.
In essence, Guimarães 2010 - European
Capital of Culture aims at improving quality
of life by contributing to the urban, social
and economic renewal of the city, while
promoting access to culture and adding
value to the territory and its collective
heritage.

102:103
 For twelve months, Guimarães will be a
meeting point for artists and creations,
from music to cinema, photography,
fine arts, architecture, literature,
philosophy, theatre, dance and street art.
In Guimarães, the artistic productions
imagined and created by its residents
will merge with those arriving at the
city from all over Europe. Throughout
the year, the city will promote cultural
diversity, hosting cultural events from
around the world.

The European Capital of Culture programme makes a strong effort on developing an

agenda heavily geared towards formation. According to João Serra, President of the
Cidade de Guimarães Foundation, the programme “is consistent and represents an option
for the strengthening of cultural facilities and the ability to attract talent, developed
with the city’s creative and productive structures.” Guimarães 2012 European Capital of
Culture’s programme starts off with a street show by Catalan collective La Fura del Baus
and ends with the national premiere of the new ‘The Muppets’ movie, the well-known
characters created by Jim Henson.

The launch of Guimarães 2012 is scheduled for January 21, with an evening of
entertainment centred on the renewed Toural square, but the opening ceremony is
scheduled for the Multiusos Pavilion, at 18:00, with a show featuring musicians such
as Cristina Branco, Chico César, Rão Kyao and Danças Ocultas, amongst others, and the
participation of Fundação Orquestra Estúdio and Grupo de Caixas e Bombos Nicolinos.

Another urban entertainment highlight should take place on the following weekend, with
‘Mi casa es tu casa’, a programme scheduled by Fernando Alvim, where musicians and
other artists set their stages in several private homes in the centre of Guimarães.

Based on the concepts of ‘City’, ‘Citizenship and Participation’ and ‘European Scope’,
Guimarães 2012 European Capital of Culture’s project is built with three goals: to develop
human capital, to create a creative economy and to generate a new geography of the
senses.

In 2010, Guimarães will also be in fashion.dIn fact, Portuguese fashion will be featured in
the European Capital of Culture, with several initiatives planned to promote Portuguese
brands and designers internationally.
culture

Built as the keystone of ‘Porto – European

Capital of Culture’, Casa da Música is the
first building made in Portugal exclusively
devoted to music in all its different
dimensions, incorporating both presentation
and public enjoyment, and artistic training
and creation.

Casa da Música was designed in 1999 as

a result of an international architectural
competition. The proposal by Rem Koolhaas
- Office for Metropolitan came out as the
winner.

CASA DA MÚSICA
Conceived to be the home of all If you visit Portugal, and Porto in particular,
music, it is part of Porto’s urban be sure to visit Casa da Música. You will
renewal process, integrated in certainly be surprised.
a network of cultural facilities
throughout the metropolitan area
and worldwide. It is an institution
that embraces a broad and ground-
breaking cultural project, which
takes on the dynamics of local
and international music scenes in
various areas, from classical to jazz
music, from fado to electronics, from
major international production to
experimental projects.

In addition to concerts, recitals

and performances, Casa da Música
promotes meetings of musicians
and musicologists, investing in the
pursuit of the origins of Portuguese
music and relying heavily on its role
as a core element in music education.
It also defines itself as an open
cultural platform for crossing music
with other areas of artistic creation
and knowledge, a space open to all
audiences and all creators.

104:105
Programme
for 2012
In 2012, Casa da Música offers a real tour of France through the best
music written over the past eight centuries.
From the birth of polyphony at the Cathedral of Notre Dame to the
latest and most popular creations in France nowadays, from the
dances that entertained the court of King Just, to the themes that
eternalized films shot in the City of Light or the great symphonic
poems from the Romantic period, this is an unforgettable journey in
space and time.
Some of the most outstanding figures of French culture will be at
Casa da Música in 2012. Pascal Dusapin, Pierre Boulez conducting
two concerts with the Remix Ensemble and the Ensemble
Intercontemporain, harpsichordist and conductor Christophe Rousset
performing solo and fronting Les Talents Lyriques. Bruno Mantovani
will world-premiere a piece for two pianos and orchestra and
musicologist Jean-Jacques Nattiez presents the Portuguese version of
his book Proust Musicien.
The Piano Cycle is dominated by some of the greatest contemporary
French pianists as well as international virtuosos, which are committed
to offer the audience French music masterpieces and the celebration
of the 150th anniversary of the birth of Debussy.

Photo Fernando Guerra

region

In the Azores, time stops. Leave everyday life behind

and accept the invitation to experience the beauty of
these landscapes.

A real paradise on the Atlantic, with pristine On shore, discover the ‘Blue Island’ and the
nature and untouched vegetation, living in hydrangeas that extend along the paths
harmony with the sea towards the sea. Visit the capital, Horta.

There are nine small islands, nine places The Azores have a rich heritage, from which
for adventure, nine delightful surprises: its temples and whaling activities stand out.
whales and dolphins frolicking in the ocean, On Terceira Island, the town of Angra do
astonishing volcanic landscapes covered in Heroismo is a UNESCO World Heritage site
green, tufts of purple hydrangeas amongst the thanks to its Renaissance historical centre.
pastures, blue and green lagoons, craters of Worthy of attention is the architecture of the
extinct volcanoes, smouldering earth. beautiful traditional houses, the Cathedral, the
Mannerist church of Nossa Senhora da Guia,
Nature calls for adventure, mountain climbing, the Museum of Angra, and the Palace of the
marine life observation and scuba diving. Captain-Generals. There is also a wine museum
in Biscoitos.
It invites you to let go and to enjoy
the relaxation of a simple stroll or of In Ponta Delgada, the famous City Gates stand
contemplating the landscape. There is a sense amongst the churches, the Carlos Machado
of enchantment, as if time stopped, something Museum, beautiful palaces and the Esperança
pure in the air. Convent and Chapel, with the Treasure of
Christ. Visit also the museums of Ribeira
Nine magical places in the midst of the Grande and Vila Franca do Campo.
Atlantic, every island is a short boat trip away.
See Pico, Portugal’s highest point, from Faial Don’t miss seeing Lagoa das Sete Cidades
Island. It is likely that the summit will rise (Lake of the Seven Cities) on São Miguel
above the cotton wool clouds. Discover the Island, one of the most beautiful and imposing
dramatic cliffs, the black basalt ‘maroiços’ in the world, situated in a massive 7.5-mile
– pyramid-shaped constructions made of circumference caldera.
loose stones – on the small rectangular Pico
vinyards, a World Heritage site, and the warm The unforgettable scenery at Lagoa Verde
waters and fumaroles of São Miguel Island, (Green Lake) and Lagoa Azul (Blue Lake),
where your meal may be cooked in the hot framed by steep escarpments covered in trees
springs. and flowers, the banks and the small peninsula
invite you to relaxing strolls and picnics in the
Don’t miss visiting Faial. It is an excellent place quiet surroundings. According to the legend,
to venture out on a boat trip and observe the different colours of the water resulted from
cetaceans. Over 24 species travel through the tears shed by a green-eyed princess and a
this area, from blue whales, the largest living blue-eyed shepherd whose love was thwarted
animals on Earth, to sperm whales and and whose weeping created the lakes at the
dolphins. It is a true expedition that will be bottom of the crater.
engraved on your memory forever.

106:107
AZORES

Inside the caldera lies the picturesque village

of Sete Cidades, with its curious traditional
houses and neo-Gothic (19th-century)
church, green pastures, and the more modest
but beautiful Lagoa de Santiago (Saint
James Lake).

Next to Lagoa Azul lies a picturesque park

with magnificent tree groves and clumps of
azaleas. Scenic overlooks at Vista do Rei and
Cerrado das Freiras offer interesting views of
the road that runs along part of the crest of
the caldera, with green rows of hydrangeas.

Lagoa do Fogo (Fire Lake) is also one of the

most impressive. Located in the crater of an
extinct volcano, it is a huge pond of clear
water with a beach at a peninsula.
tradition

THE LEGEND OF
THE COCK OF
BARCELOS The Cock of Barcelos
is one of the key elements of
the ongoing promotional campaign
for Portuguese footwear and one of the
trademarks of Portugal today. At Expo 2010
in Shanghai, for example, thousands of Cocks
of Barcelos were sold. But what is the legend
behind the cock? There are several versions of the
legend. The most widespread tells the story of
how inhabitants of Barcelos were troubled
by a horrendous crime that had
taken place in town, and even more
troubled by not having caught the person who
had committed it.
One day, a Galician arrived in town
and suspicions turned
to him. The authorities
decided to arrest
him, and although he
claimed his innocence, no one
believed him. Nobody thought possible
that the Galician had been on pilgrimage to Santiago
de Compostela in fulfilment of a vow, nor that he was a
devout believer in Saint James, as well as in Saint Paul and in
the Virgin Mary. So, he was sentenced to death by hanging. Before being
hanged, the Galician asked to be taken to the judge who had condemned him.
Once authorization was granted, he was taken to the magistrate, who at that time was
hosting a banquet for his friends. The Galician again claimed his innocence and, to
the disbelief of all present, pointed in the direction of a roasted rooster on
the table and said: “My innocence will be proven by the crowing of
this cock when I am hanged.” Everybody laughed and japed but, just
in case, no one touched the cock. What seemed impossible,
however, became true. When the pilgrim was to be hanged,
the roasted cock stood on the table and crowed. No
one doubted his innocence then. The judge
ran to the gallows to discover the poor
man hanging from a rope around his
neck. The knot was loose, though,
and that kept him from
choking to death. He was
immediately released and
sent in peace. Years later,
he returned to Barcelos and
erected statues in praise of the
Virgin and of Saint James.
108:109
 FADO
Intangible Heritage
UNESCO approved
in November, Fado,
one of the leading
exponents of For the President of the Republic of Portugal, this recognition is a “cause
Portuguese culture, as for pride for all Portuguese.” “From this moment, Fado is recognized as
a Heritage of all Humanity, an inestimable value in the present and an
Intangible Heritage important cultural heritage for future generations,” Cavaco Silva emphasized.
of Humanity.
For UNESCO, “intangible cultural heritage, transmitted from generation to
generation, is constantly recreated by communities and groups depending
on their environment, their interaction with nature and history, giving them
a sense of identity and continuity, contributing thus to promote respect for
cultural diversity and human creativity”.

From Severa to Amália, from Marceneiro to Carlos do Carmo and the new
generations of Fado singers like Ana Moura, Camané or Marisa, from the
famous “Fado houses” and big shows to unknown “retiros” and small taverns,
Fado has a history very much alive and is an art constantly evolving.

In this regard, all attempts to crystallize it, to trap it, to instrumentalize it

in a single formula, in an exclusive expression, in a single attitude have
failed. Because it belongs to all, Fado never allows itself to belong to only
a few. Recognition by UNESCO is the strongest evidence of its vitality and
timelessness, of its genuineness, its richness, and its creativity: the loyalty
to a root has always been an urge for it to upgrade. Its link to a past and a
tradition has always been a desire for future and renewal. Equal and different
from itself, Fado recreates and reinvents itself and surprises with each
metamorphosis. Fado is the Portuguese culture and now Intangible Heritage
of Humanity.
speciallity

CUSTARD
TARTS

These tarts are one of the most popular

Portuguese pastry specialties.

As the story goes, in the 19th century, clergymen from Mosteiro dos
Jerónimos (Hieronymites Monastery) in Belém, in an attempt to
support themselves, put up custard tarts for sale in a shop next to the
monastery. In those days, Belém area was far from the city of Lisbon,
and steamboats were the only fast way of getting there. Mosteiro dos
Jerónimos and Torre de Belém (Belém Tower) attracted many tourists,
who would soon surrender to the custard tarts.

The monastery was shut down in 1834 and, three years later, ‘The
ancient confectionery of Belém’ was founded. Since then, it operates
continuously, baking around 15,000 custard tarts daily.
Only master confectioners, who hand bake the custard tarts at the
Secret Workshop, know and pass on the recipe, which still remains
unchanged to this day. Both the original recipe and the name ‘Pastéis
de Belém’ (Belém Tarts) have been patented.

Nowadays, most Portuguese cafés sell custard tarts from the pastry
industry. It is an original and exclusive confectionery that delights
tourists throughout the world.

110:111
Recipe
Ingredients

Dough (Puff Pastry):

for 20
- 300 g of flour
- 250 g of puff pastry margarine
- salt and water

custard
- or you can buy ready-made puff pastry, in which
case you’ll only have to roll it and line the moulds
as indicated

tarts Filling:
- ½ litre of cream or sour cream
- 9 egg yolks
- 10 tablespoons of sugar

Preparation

Mix the flour, salt and water, and knead the dough
until it holds together. Divide the margarine into
three portions. Roll the pastry, sprinkle it with of
the margarine and roll it up like a rug. Repeat this
operation twice, until all the margarine has been
used, and let the pastry rest for 20 minutes. Then,
cut the pastry into 2 cm thick squares and place
each of them in a flat madeleine or muffin mould.
Whip the egg yolks with sugar and cream and
cook the mixture in a double-boiler in the oven
until it thickens. Let it cool for a while and place a
dessertspoonful of mixture inside each mould. Put
the moulds in the oven and allow the tarts to bake
until they turn brown. You can eat them warm or
cold.
112:112
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