Please fully read these instructions before calling for any support or advice.

You may find something that you have missed and not completed correctly.

This equipment must be installed by a qualified Air Conditioning Installer, please give this
guide to your installer. This equipment should be installed correctly by professionally qualified
technicians according to the manufacturer’s specifications and requirements. Please read the
entire instructions before commencing, so the full process is understood before beginning.
Failure to install correctly as set out in these instructions may render your 12 month parts
warranty null & void.

If the system is installed incorrectly, and as a result is

not operating correctly or is damaged, it is the
responsibility of the purchaser / installer. The supplier /
manufacturer accepts no responsibility for failures
caused by sub-standard or incorrect installations.

Guide to the customer

 The customer should make provision for a suitable power supply source; the voltage
should be in the range of 220-250V.
 Please note that the mains power supply input for all wall split systems connects to the
OUTDOOR UNIT
 The power supply circuit should have MCB leakage protection. The power supply
capacity should be no less than 13 Amps.
 You are advised to use an independent circuit and a suitably earthed socket / outlet,
although a single system can normally run from a standard domestic ring main.
 The wiring must be installed by a qualified electrician according to the latest electrical
safety requirements.
 The air-conditioner must be well earthed; the switch of the main power of the
air-conditioner must be reliably earthed, it is recommended that there is a mains isolator
on the outdoor unit.
 The power supply should be connected by a qualified electrician.

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Your packages contain:
• 1 x Outdoor Condenser Unit

• 1 x Indoor Evaporator Unit

• 2 x Insulated copper connecting pipes with pre-flared ends

• Interconnecting electrical cables

• Remote control with batteries

• Plastic tube for hole in wall

• Plastic round trim for hole in wall

• Tape to wrap pipes after installation

• Water drain extension pipe (translucent/white ribbed pipe)

• Right angled plastic connector pipe for fitting to base of outdoor

unit to pipe away any drips if fitting above a pathway, attach

standard garden hosepipe to the required length

• User Manual

• This Installation Guide

• Warranty Registration Card (FREE 18 Months upgrade if

returned within 14 days of purchase)

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Installation Steps.

1. Selecting the most suitable installation position.

2. How to bend the 2 copper pipes correctly by hand.

3. Installing the air-conditioner.

4. Connecting & correctly bending the pipes.

5. Expelling the air in the pipes and the indoor unit.

6. Electrical Connection.

7. Testing.

8. Service & Maintenance.

9. Error Codes.

10. Circuit Diagrams.

1 Selecting the most suitable installation position

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Indoor Unit

 Ensure there is no heating or steam source nearby.

 No obstacles are in the way of the pipes or wiring.
 There is good air circulation all round.
 It is convenient to adopt measures to reduce noises.
 Don’t install near a doorway.
 Make sure you have the distance specified in the picture between
the ceiling, walls, furniture and other obstacles.
 Install 2 metres high above the floor (for best performance).
 The system can be fitted at the top of a dwarf wall, but you will
lose some efficiency in cooling. The front vents must not be
obscured by furniture etc. If in doubt you should opt for the next
size system up when fitting to a dwarf wall, or one of our dwarf
wall systems.
 The picture to the right shows just one possible option for routing
of the pipes/wires from the indoor unit to the outdoor unit.
Although, you can exit the copper pipes at the left hand or right
hand ends, or from the bottom of the indoor unit, as well as at
ninety degrees straight through the wall to the rear of the unit. You
will find there are ‘cut-out sections in the plastic, which can be
removed to accommodate the pipes exiting from different
positions.
 The 2 copper pipes attached to the rear of the indoor unit are
designed to be ‘swivelled’ through 90 or 180 degrees to give these
other positioning options, but care must be taken not to kink or
crush the pipes. You need to hold them at the point where they
are attached to the back of the indoor unit, then gently move them
in small stages of 2cm at a time with a 3 second rest between
each. It is also recommended that the foam insulation be cut
carefully with a knife and rolled back at the point of swivel so that
you can see the copper pipes and make certain that you are not
compressing them or kinking them during this pipe alignment
process. Once finished, the foam insulation should be put back and re-taped in place with a good
quality waterproof tape, or you will get condensation drips.

Outdoor Unit

 The outdoor unit can be positioned higher or lower than the indoor unit.
 The unit is designed to be weather-proof; however, ideally the unit should be sited in the shade to
avoid the heat of the midday sun as this can affect cooling performance. You can shade with a
‘porch’ type canopy if you wish. If you put up a canopy to protect it from rain and sun, pay attention
not to cause any obstruction to the dissipation of heat from the condenser.
 There must be at least 100mm of space to the rear and sides and 600mm to the front of the
outdoor unit. Make sure any excess copper pipe-work that may be ‘coiled’ up behind the
condenser is not obstructing it from drawing air through the rear of the unit.
 Don’t keep animals or plants near the installation location as the hot air from the outdoor unit will
affect them. Also do not allow any foliage to grow into the unit, check it often to ensure it is free
from all obstructions.
 In the wintertime, check that the large fan can rotate freely and that it is not blocked with leaves,
snow or ice, or damage to the blades of the fan or motor may occur.
 Make sure you have the distances specified above between walls and other obstacles.
 Keep away from heat sources or flammable gases.
 The installation base and supporting frame should be strong and secure. The machine should be
on a horizontally level surface.
 You can obtain a wall bracket mounting kit from your reseller, or directly from us.
 If you are mounting the unit on a flat roof it is recommended that you fix it to 2 external grade
timbers of 100mm x 50mm x 1000mm, like ‘skis’ so that it cannot blow over in high winds. It is
recommended to use countersunk galvanised bolts fitted from underneath so as not to damage
any felt roof membrane. Then secure on top of the outdoor unit’s ‘feet’ with washers and nylock
nuts. Check the installation periodically to ensure it is stable and secure.

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2 How to bend the copper pipes correctly by hand

• DO NOT use a metric pipe bender as the pipes are imperial diameters and this will crush them as
they will spread and be flattened! Do not use any internal bending springs as you will damage the
pipe internally by chafing the copper.

Follow the instructions below.

• The copper pipes take a little patience and care to bend suitable curves without crushing or
kinking. There are 2 pipes; one is smaller than the other. The smaller is fairly soft and will bend
reasonably easily to a gentle curve, be careful not to kink though as it is very soft! Be gentle and
patient and you will have perfect bends!
• All larger pipes require a bit more patience; you will be able to achieve a radius of 5” or perhaps
even 4” if you are careful. First of all, cut round the foam insulation (do not cut into the copper) and
slide apart the insulation at the point you want to bend or curve the pipe, so that you can see the
copper pipe itself. Then, working from the centre position of your required curve, placing your
thumbs together, press them up into the copper pipe and gently draw down with your fingertips on
either side (rather like snapping a stick), be careful to ‘feel’ the pipe bending and stop as it starts to
depress. Move along an inch, left or right and make another tiny impression with your thumbs and
pull down slightly with your fingertips. Continue in this way, making perhaps 30 or so tiny indents,
until you have a perfect curve, Observe the pipe and check it is not depressed more than 1mm in
any place. Then slide back the foam insulation until it meets, then tape the joint with some good
waterproof tape to avoid condensation drips. Make all required curves in the same way.

3a Installation of the Outdoor Unit

 The outdoor unit must be fitted HORIZONTALLY

so that the 4 metal ‘feet’ are flat on the mounting
surface in a horizontal position. Left Feet Air Inlet Right Feet
 The outdoor unit must be firmly fixed to
avoid falling over in strong winds (see
notes above).
 The large fan with grille over must be
facing outwards from any wall; this is the
front of the unit.
 Install on a cement base as in the drawing
or use our wall brackets (available
separately).
 If it is installed near coastal areas or high
above the ground where strong winds are
likely, the unit should be installed close to
a wall to ensure the normal operation of
the fan and a wind blocking construction (like an open planked shelter, ‘picket fence style’) should
be made.
 If it is an overhanging installation (using wall mounting brackets), the structure of the mounting
wall should be made of a solid brick, concrete, or materials with equivalent strength, and of
sufficient support capacity. Otherwise, measures such as reinforcement, support or vibration
damping should be adopted. Do not mount bracket fixing bolts into mortar line.
 Always check the fastness and security of all wall mounted installation bolts every few
months to ensure safety. You may need to replace brackets or bolts if they become rusty over time.
Air Conditioning Centre accept no liability for damage to property or persons caused by failed
mountings that have not been fitter or maintained to a good safe standard.

3b Installation of the Indoor Unit

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 PLEASE NOTE: when removing the first copper
end plug pipe (either one, as it does not matter
which is removed first) from the back of the
indoor unit (these are the short pieces of pipe
with crimped and soldered ends, or end caps)
you should hear a rush of air escaping at high
pressure, this is completely normal, the unit is
pressurised at the factory to ensure it is leak free
when you receive it. If you do not hear any air
escape as the first of these pipes are undone,
please contact us BEFORE FITTING as your unit
may be faulty.

Installation Procedure

 First check the wall and make sure that it is firm and secure. Use a minimum of four suitable
screws with suitable wall plugs to fasten the installation bracket onto the wall. Keep it level and
completely flat to the wall otherwise it might cause water droplets to form on the plate when the
air-conditioner is running in cooling mode. Make sure the top is well fixed at the highest points, or
the bracket may flex and sag away from the wall.
 Decide where you are going to position your pipe-work for exiting through the wall.
 See ‘selection of the installation position’ in section 1 above for notes on different ways to position
the copper pipes.
 The water drain pipe is attached to the back of the indoor unit.
 Drill a 65-75mm (approx) diameter hole where you are going to exit your pipe-work through the
wall of the building. Alternatively (if you have visible bricks on your building) remove a quarter of
a brick by ‘chain’ drilling a series of small holes joined together vertically down through a brick,
then drill the same round the end of the mortar and knock through the quarter piece of brick. The
hole should slant downward slightly so that your water drain pipe will have a sufficient ‘run-off’ to
use gravity to drain the condensate water from the indoor unit to the outside of the building. (The
indoor unit can produce over 2 litres per hour in the summer). There is a 2 metre ribbed extension
pipe which may be used if necessary to extend the condensate drain pipe, please use a good
adhesive tape to join the 2 pipes. The extension pipe (if purchased separately) fits on one way
round only.
 Once you have decided where you will be placing your copper pipes, water drain pipe and
electrical wires, and drilled the suitable holes for each (or combined all together into 1 hole), you
are ready to mount the indoor unit. Depending on your pipe directions you may need to attach
your copper pipes to the pipes on the back of the indoor unit first (refer to the section on attaching
pipes if necessary).
 ‘Hang’ the indoor unit on the 2 ‘lugs’ at the top of the mounting bracket and make sure the unit is in
the middle of the bracket. Push the lower part of the casing against the mounting bracket until the
2 bottom ‘latches’ on the mounting plate click into place on the rear of the plastic casing.

4a Pipe Connection – Special Care Required

 Connect the pipes to the units: Apply a few drops of ‘3 in 1 oil’ (with no additives, available from
DIY and hardware stores) to each face of the joints. First place the taper of the pipe over the brass
cone and fasten the connection nut carefully at first by hand until tight and then with 2 spanners
that fit correctly until it is tightly fastened. The pipes must be very tight to avoid refrigerant leaks,
but be careful not to damage the fittings, they should be a similar tightness to a car wheel nut.

 The fastening direction is shown in the picture.

Threads are clockwise.
 Repeat the same process for both ends of both pipes.

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4b Fixing the pipes

 Wrap up all copper pipes with the insulating foam,

fitted.
 Cover the connection parts with insulation material
and fix them with cable ties at each end.
 Wrap up the pipes with tape alongside the wall and
fix them to the wall with clips or cable tie fixtures.
These steps are usually adopted when the outdoor
unit is installed below the indoor unit, although they
can be above or below each other.
 In case that you want to add an extension water
discharge pipe, the end of pipe should be above the
ground (to prevent water from draining back into the
pipe). Fix it onto the wall so it won’t be
 affected by wind.
 Wrap the pipes and connection wires well from
bottom to top with tape.
 Wrap up the pipes that are grouped together in
the way shown in the picture as it may prevent
water from entering the building.
 Use clips, cable tie fixtures or other fixings to fasten
the pipes to the walls.

5 Expelling the air in the

pipes and the indoor
unit – Pay attention to
exact timings – use a
digital watch!
You must expel all the air
from the system: moisture
or damp air in the
refrigerating system will
cause ‘sludging’ problems
with the compressor and
reduce efficiency and life
expectancy of the system.

Please use a stop watch or

digital watch and an
assistant to accurately time
procedures
c) and e) below.

a) Take off the valve covers from

the stop valve and T-branch
valve.
b) Take off the auxiliary cover
from the T-branch valve.
c) Turn the stop valve (ON
SMALL PIPE) using a
hexagon wrench (Allen key),
anti clock-wise to an angle of
90 degrees (QUARTER OF A
TURN), keep it open for 4 - 5
seconds and then CLOSE the valve fully - for now.

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d) Check whether there is any refrigerant leakage from the pipe connections, at all pipe joints, using a
mixture of washing up liquid & water in a plastic sprayer bottle, to see if any air bubbles form (you are
looking for tiny bubbles forming) on the pipe joints, tighten the nuts further if necessary, and then recheck.
Once there are no leaks, you can continue. It is extremely important that there are no tiny leaks,
otherwise you will need to have your refrigerant topped up within a short time, and your system may be
damaged!
e) Next, push in the ‘tyre inflator’ style valve on the T-branch valve (SIDE OF LARGE PIPE VALVE) for 3 - 4
seconds using a screwdriver or similar, to expel the air in the pipe-work. CAUTION: use a long enough
implement as the refrigerant gas may be COLD in winter (not normally in summer). You may possibly
notice a slight oily residue on the tip of the screwdriver, this is normal. BUT, do not worry, and do not
release for longer than 5 seconds even if no oil is present, oil is not always seen as it may have been
very settled in your system, so none may be released from the valve.
f) VERY IMPORTANT - Finally, open the stop and T-branch (Large & Small VALVES) with a hexagon
wrench (Allen key) fully anti-clockwise until they stop (they are designed to be sealed in the fully opened
position, but should not be forced) to allow the gas / refrigerant to freely circulate around the system.
They may be stiff, so be sure to open them fully. Then replace the 3 valve covers on all the valves
TIGHTLY, some PTFE tape on the threads of the valve covers ONLY can be used if desired, but NOT on
the pipe joints, only 3 in 1 oil. NB. In Winter it may be necessary to warm the valve block with a hairdryer
for 10 minutes or kettle of hot but NOT BOILING water so the rubber valves will seal properly when
opened and closed, do this for ambient temps. 8 degrees C or below.

Failure to open the 2 Hexagon Key valves fully may result in failure of the Compressor, and will not be
covered by warranty.

g) There must be no gas / refrigerant leaks, please check all the piping connections parts again. You must
test for leaks in all joints; generally, this can be tested with washing up liquid in water. A small plant /
window sprayer is ideal for this. Gas leaks on pipes are not covered by warranty.

6 Electrical connection

 Unscrew the screw & take off the electrical panel cover (RH handle) from the outdoor unit, the indoor
unit connection panel is behind the screw on corner cover on the lower RH side. Then unclip the curved
end plastic insert above the corner piece you removed to reveal the electrical terminal connections.
 You need to connect the interconnecting wires correctly between the indoor & outdoor units.
 The interconnecting wires are numbered using round sleeves at the end of each terminal; connect each
numbered wire to the corresponding number on the terminal block on the outdoor unit.
 Fasten very securely the wires to the connection blocks.
 Connect a 2.5mm2 flex to the LNE connection for the mains power supply at the OUTDOOR UNIT.
 Screw up the connection panel covers to their original places.

7 Test running - FIRST TIME OPERATION

 Make sure that all the pipes and wires are connected.
 Make sure that both the liquid valve and gas valve on the side of the outdoor unit
are COMPLETELY OPEN. (Large & Small Hex Valves)
Connect the mains power supply cable to the correctly rated power source (see notes earlier)
Connect the mains wires to an independent power source outlet of the correct rating.
Fit batteries in the remote control, refer to user guide to set up remote control.
When operating for the first time - run the air-conditioner in cooling mode (SNOW FLAKE on indoor unit
display) for 30 minutes on the lowest temperature setting. Then turn off using the remote control. Wait
for 3 minutes to allow the refrigerant to settle. Then run in heating mode (RED SUN on wall unit display)
for 30 minutes on highest temperature. Or vice-versa in winter to warm the room first before cooling is
possible. Then switch off for 3 minutes before setting to your desired temperature on cooling or heating
modes. Complete this procedure once a month to keep your system valves in good order.

 Performance & Evaluation

 Test the outdoor / indoor air temperatures.

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 Make sure that the temperature difference between the outdoor and indoor air is
o
greater than 8 C. The unit may not heat or cool if the selected indoor temperature is not more than 8
degrees difference from the outdoor temperature.

8 Service & Maintenance

Check the indoor dust filters every 3 months, vacuum with a brush or wash in warm water with washing
up liquid only, dry naturally.
Check the outdoor unit and ensure no plants or leaves/sticks etc can obstruct the fan operating, and
that air can flow freely through the rear cooling fins. Wash the fins gently with a hosepipe to remove grit
and dust that can collect on the fins. Isolate from power supply first and allow to dry before
reconnecting.
Your system should be serviced and refrigerant levels checked every year (for larger systems this may
be required more often, by law, check with us first), please contact us to arrange this. If you have
extended warranty, you MUST have an annual service to qualify for warranty.
If you ever notice a reduction in cooling or heating efficiency, first check the filters, if they are clear,
please contact us.

9 Error Codes

Your system can display different error codes. These are generally used by our Engineers to determine
the fault; here we have listed them below for your convenience.

Display LED STATUS

E0 Indoor unit EEPROM parameter error

E1 Indoor / outdoor units communication error

E2 Zero crossing detection error(except MSR1-24HRDN1-QRC4W)

E3 Indoor fan speed has been out of control

E4 Open circuit or short circuit of indoor room temperature T1 sensor

E5 Open circuit or short circuit of evaporator coil temperature T2 sensor

EC Refrigerant Leakage Detection

F1 Open circuit or short circuit of outdoor ambient T4 temperature sensor

F2 Open circuit or short circuit of condenser coil temperature T3 sensor

Open circuit or short circuit of compressor discharge T5 temperature

F3
sensor

F4 Outdoor unit EEPROM parameter error

F5 Outdoor fan speed has been out of control

P0 IPM malfunction or IGBT over-strong current protection

P1 Over voltage or over low voltage protection

P4 Inverter compressor drive error

Switch off if any error codes occur and contact us immediately, otherwise further damage may
occur.

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 dF is not an error code, it means your system is simply defrosting itself and will resume to normal
operation in a few minutes time. This is a standard feature and should be left to complete the defrost,
no action is necessary.
In wintertime you may notice steam rising from the outdoor unit during defrost, this is normal. It is also
common for the outdoor unit to drip water in the winter; this is the moisture condensing on the cold
copper coils.
Please contact us if you have any doubts about the correct operation of your system.
You must contact us first for any service or warranty issues, no unauthorized work should be carried out
on your system, any such unauthorized work will not be paid by us and may invalidate any warranty.

IMPORTANT - Items to note:

 Fix the machine firmly; otherwise it may produce noise and vibration, or blow over in high winds.
 If using wall brackets for the outdoor unit, bolt the unit to the brackets securely, check all bolts and
serviceability of brackets and all fixings often, service or replace as required to prevent bracket failure
and injury or death. Air Conditioning Centre cannot accept any liability for damage to property or
persons caused by insufficient servicing or checking fastness and safety of all components.
 Install the outdoor unit where it will not disturb your neighbours. You may require planning permission in
some areas, if in doubt always check first with your Local Council before proceeding.
 IMPORTANT: When switching between heating and cooling modes, switch off system for 3 minutes
before changing the mode to allow the refrigerant to settle.
 When using heating mode, the indoor unit fan will not operate until sufficient heat has been generated
by the outdoor unit, this may take several minutes initially each time heating is selected. Please be
patient and wait for the indoor unit fan to operate and blow warm air.
 AUTO MODE is designed to keep the room at a rough ambient temperature using heating and cooling.
This is more useful if you are leaving the room unattended and just want to keep it at an average
temperature as it is not that precise for temperature accuracy. The idea is designed to use minimal
electricity so the temperature range is +/- 5 degrees either way from where you have set it, this avoids
the machine heating and cooling all day and ‘fighting’ itself using lots of power unnecessarily. You will
find that if you are occupying the room then either cooling mode or heating mode will give a
more accurate temperature.

10 Circuit Diagrams

Indoor Unit Circuit Diagrams. Please refer to the correct one for your model only.

KFR-23/33/53IW/X1c-M Circuit Diagrams Indoor Unit

KFR-63IW/X1c-M Circuit Diagram Indoor Unit

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Outdoor Unit Circuit Diagrams. Please refer to the correct one for your model only.

KFR-23IW/X1c-M Circuit Diagram Outdoor Unit

KFR-33/53IW/X1c-M Circuit Diagrams Outdoor Unit

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KFR-63IW/X1c-M Circuit Diagram Outdoor Unit

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