TABLE OF CONTENTS

S.No. Contents Page No.

1. Basic Textiles terms 1

2. Computer Embroidery 1

3. Identification of parts of embroidery machine 2

4. Running process of computerized embroidery machine 5

5. Different Types of Embroidery Threads 6

6. Embroidery stitches 7

7. Types of Needle used to sewing Different fabrics 17

8. Embroidery defects 19

9. Maintenance of Embroidery machines 22

10. Safety measure 23

 1. Basic Textiles terms

Yarn Basic raw material for weaving/Knitting

Type of Single ply, double ply and multiply
yarn
Yarn count Defines thickness of yarn. Higher the count, finer the yarn
Warp Lengthwise yarn in the fabric.
Weft (filling) Width wise yarn in the fabric.
Selvedge Edges of the fabric running lengthwise
Woven Woven fabrics are made by using two or more sets of yarn interlaced
Fabric at right angles to each other.
Knitted Knitted fabrics are formed by series of interlocking loops
Fabric (example: knit wears)
Sewing 1. Sewing Thread is a type of yarn used for sewing.
Thread

2. Computer Embroidery
 Embroidery is a craft by using a needle, thread or yarn is sewn on to a base
material or fabric to create a pattern.
 This is done by computer operated machine, it involves the use of special
threads available in many colors that help to produce various beautiful
patterns.
 There are two types of Computer embroidery machine as
Single head needle machine
Multi Head needle Machine

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  Sequence of Operations In Garment production

Fabric inspection

layering Pattern Making

Cutting Fusing

Stickering and bundling

Embroidery Stitching Buttoning and button holing

Washing

Ironing

Finishing

Packing

3. IDENTIFICATION OF PARTS OF COMPUTER EMBORIDERY MACHINE

Operating Process for Muti Head Computer Embroidery machine

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The computerised embroidery process can be broken down into six functional
activities:

1. Interpret artwork and digitise the design using specialised software

2. Save the design as a stitch file that can be understood by the embroidery
machine
3. Read the stitch data file into the embroidery machine
4. Teach the machine how to embroider the design
5. Frame or hoop the fabric you wish to embroider on and slot into the machine
arms.
6. Start the machine stitching and run until embroidery design is complete and
finished.

1. Interpret artwork and digitise the design using specialised software

 Artwork may exist as a printed document or in a digital form. The design

would be either scanned or opened into the specialised digitizing software and
displayed on screen.
 Older systems require the artwork to be enlarged and plotted on a tablet, but
modern systems use ‘on screen’ digitizing methods. The operator can zoom in
and use the pointer of the mouse to define the design in stitches.

2. Save the design as a stitch file

that can be understood by the
embroidery machine.

 Once the embroidery design is

complete the design is saved in
the internal file format of the
specialist embroidery software.
 This is important if the design
needs to be changed or edited
later as working with a native file makes this easier.

3. Read the stitch data file into the embroidery machine

 The file needs to be transferred into the memory of the embroidery machine,
this might be done via a cable from the PC running specialist software, or via
a flash card or USB stick.

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 4. Teach the machine how to embroider the design.

 Once the design is in the

memory of the embroidery
machine the machine operator
needs to teach the machine
how to sew the design i.e.
which needles and what
orientation to use.
 The needles are numbered and
each needle is threaded with a
different colour.
 The embroidery design
software provides the operator with a schedule of which colour is to be used
in each stage of the design and the stages are numbered in sequence.
 To teach the machine the operator assigns the relevant needle number
(colour) to each stage. Each threaded needle will stitch its colour block or
blocks until a colour change is required.
 It will then tie off its thread and park and the next relevant needle will move
into position to begin sewing.

5. Frame or hoop the fabric you wish to embroider on and slot into the
machine arms.

 The frame or hoop is based on a traditional embroidery ring; the fabric to be

embroidered is secured in the frame rather like the skin on a drum.
 The purpose of this is to secure the fabric in a mechanism that can be slotted
onto the embroidery machine so that it can be moved about accurately by the
embroidery machine pantograph.
 Framing also serves to stabilise the fabric, to avoid the movement of the
design whilst being stitched as described above.
 Further support is added by applying backing to the fabric which is a paper-
like product inserted under the fabric and is often also framed with it.

6. Start the machine stitching, run until embroidery design is complete and
finished.

 Embroidery machines use the conventional ‘lock stitch’ mechanism, using a

top thread and a bottom ‘bobbin’ thread to create a stitch.
 The bobbin, located beneath the material being stitched, catches the thread of
the penetrating needle and carries it in a circular direction creating a loop
through which the bobbin thread passes locking the stitch to the back of the
material.

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  Unlike a conventional sewing machine the computerised embroidery machine
is driven automatically moving in any direction within a specified field,
changing needles (colour), trimming thread and stitching at speeds of up to
1200 stitches per minute.
 It also has a more complex tension mechanism which can be key to the
productivity of the machine and the finished quality of the embroidery.
 A well maintained embroidery machine, using good quality threads and
stitching a professionally digitised design can complete an embroidery design
independently without stopping and without requiring operator intervention.

4. Running process of computerized embroidery machine

1. Monitoring the machine embroidery process

 Make sure the work area is free from hazards

 Check the equipment prior to starting the machine, including correct controls,
correct attachments, correct needle & thread
 Monitor the embroidery process once the machine has been started
 Rectify any errors or make required adjustments if the embroidery does not
meet the quality standards
 Use the correct tools and equipments
 Check needles and threads regularly

2. Rectifying any error/ breakdown during the machine embroidery

process

 Replace needle/thread if required during the embroidery process

 Report faults in the materials
 Follow company reporting procedures about defective tools and machines
which affect /problems to the relevant person promptly and accurately
 Report any damaged work to the responsible person
 Carry out the finishing operations related to computerized machine
embroidery

3. Carry out the finishing operations related to computerized machine

embroidery

 Follow the instructions &design specifications given for the embroidery to be

done
 Remove the frame from the machine after embroidery is completed
 Take out the embroidered panels
 Remove stabilizer if any
 Trim the extra thread
 Leave work area safe and secure when work is complete
 Work on embroidery machines safely and in accordance with guidelines

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  Inspect embroided products against specifications
 Sort and work to assist the next stage of production and minimise the risk of
damage

5. Different Types of Embroidery Threads:

 Different types of Embroidery threads in use are

 Rayon Threads,
 Polyester Threads,
 Nylon threads,
 Cotton Threads,
 Cotton-wrapped polyester,
 Metallic Threads,
 Laminate or Flat Threads and Silk Threads:

 Frame Fitting Practices

1. Place the piece of fabric using a short stitch length, if the fabric is thin fuse a
layer of light weight interfacing on the patch wrong side after piecing.
2. Hoop the base fabric with the help of stabilizer.
3. Place the hoop on Embroidery Machine and select the design to embroider.
4. The first segment is the intersection lines for the pieced appliqué placement.
5. Place the seamlines of the patch work inline with the stitching on the base
fabric. Stitch the outline.
6. Remove the hoop from the machine.
7. Trim the excess fabric from around the outline.
8. Return the hoop to the machine and complete the remaining design.

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 6. Embroider Stitches:

The stitches are grouped into four types, each offering different effects and uses for
embroidery:

 Outline – Used for outlining the elements of

your design
 Border – Used to secure edges and to add
textural dimension to your design
 Detached – Used to create decorative
details or in mass to fill in open areas of the
design
 Filling – Used to create shading or to solidly fill in a design area

Running Stitch

Uses: outlining, straight and curved lines.

 Work from right to left.
 Bring thread up at 1 then down at 2, up at 3
and down at 4 and continue.
 The spaces between the stitches can be the
same length as the stitches or shorter for a
different look.

Back Stitch
Uses: outlining, straight and curved lines

 Work from right to left.

 Bring needle up at 1 and back down at 2.
 Move left and bring needle up at 3, then back down at 1. Continue stitching.

Split Stitch Uses: Outlining, straight and curved lines, filling a shape by working
rows closely together.

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 Work from left to right.
 Bring needle up at 1 and down at 2.
 Bring needle back up at 3, splitting the center
of the previous stitch.
 Take needle down at 4 and then back up at 2.
 Continue stitching.

Stem Stitch
Uses: Outlining, straight and curved lines, stems for plants, filling if rows are stitched
closely together. Creates a rope like appearance.
 Work from left to right.
 Bring needle up at 1 and down at 2.
 Bring needle back up halfway between 1 and 2 at 3, just slightly above the first stitch.
 Be sure to keep thread below the needle.
 Continue stitching

Chain Stitch
Uses: Outlining, straight and curved lines,
filling if rows are stitched closely together.

 Work from top to bottom.

 Bring needle up at 1 and then reinsert
needle in same hole, forming a loop.
 Bring needle up at 2 and pull thread to
tighten loop until desired shape is achieved.
 Repeat multiple stitches to create a chain.
 To end the row make a small stitch over the last loop to hold it in place to secure
thread on backside.

Couching
Uses: Outlining shapes, straight and curvy
lines, spirals, bold dimensional accents,
decorative borders.

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 This stitch involves two threads: a thicker foundation thread, (also called the laid
thread) and a thinner thread (called the couching thread).

 Bring foundation thread onto the front and place along the design line.
 Bring the couching thread up under the foundation thread and make a tiny stitch over
the thread, going back into or very close to the entry hole.
 Continue making evenly spaced stitches over the foundation thread to anchor the
foundation thread in place.
 To finish couching, bring the foundation thread onto the backside and secure it.
 Secure couching thread on backside.

Blanket Stitch
Uses: Straight and gently curved lines,
borders and finishing edges.

 Work from left to right.

 Bring needle up at 1, down at 2 and up
at 3, keeping the thread looped under
the needle.
 Pull thread through and shape stitch as desired.
 Repeat multiple stitches until complete.

Whip Stitch
Uses: is used for seaming fabrics, either right or wrong sides together. The stitches
should be about 1/16" apart, and only as deep as necessary to create a firm seam.

 Bring needle up at 1 and down at 2 making sure to pierce both pieces of fabric to
bind together.
 Bring needle back up at 3 and down 4,
continue stitching the seam.

Ladder Stitch
Uses: Applique, bind two seams
together.

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 Bring needle up at 1 and through the fabric a short distance to 2, keeping the thread
hidden under the fabric (dashed lines).
 Bring needle over to 3 and repeat.
 Only the vertical stitches should show on the front of the fabric. Stitches indicated by
dashed lines will be hidden in the base fabric, or in the folds of the appliqué.
 Continue stitching.

Laced Running Stitch

Uses: Borders, decorative outlining.

 Stitch a line of Running Stitches.

 Bring the lacing thread up at 1 and lace
it under the next running stitch.
 Continue lacing the thread up and down
through the running stitches keeping the
loops even.
 To finish the lacing, bring the lacing
thread onto the backside under the
center of the last stitch.

Coral Stitch

Uses: Decorative borders, foliage, plant stems

 Working from right to left, hold the

working thread to the left of the starting
point (or the last stitch). Insert the needle
into the fabric above the working thread
and bring the tip of the needle out just
under the thread. Wrap the thread
around the needle from left to right and
pull the needle through the resulting loop.

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 Cross Stitch
Uses: Borders and filling if worked in adjacent
rows.

To stitch a line:

 Stitching from left to right, bring needle up at 1,

down at 2, then up at 3 and down at 4.
 Continue stitching across to end of line.
 Start back stitching from right to left, make
crosses by bringing the needle up at 5 and
down at 6. Continue until all crosses have
been stitched.

Upright Cross Stitch

Uses: Borders, fillings, decorative.
 Work left to right.
 Create a horizontal stitch by bringing
needle up at 1 and down at 2.
 Create a vertical stitch by bringing your
needle up at 3 and down at 4.
 To create the next upright cross stitch bring
your needle up at 5 and down at 6.
 Bring your needle back up at 7 and down at 8.
 Continue stitching.

Herringbone Stitch
Uses: Border, edging, can be stitched over
a ribbon or braid to hold it down.

 Work from left to right.

 Bring needle up at 1, and down at 2.
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 Bring needle up at 3 and down at 4 to create an elongated cross stitch.
 Bring needle up at 5 and continue.
 Mark two parallel lines with Water Soluble Pens to keep stitch height uniform.

Chevron Stitch

Uses: Border, edging, can be stitched over a ribbon or braid to hold it down.

 Work from left to right.

 Bring needle up at 1, down at 2.
 Bring the tip of the needle back through the fabric halfway between 1 and 2 at point
3.
 Bring the needle up to 4 and make a
backstitch by bringing your needle up
from 5 down at 6.
 Bring the tip of your needle back
through the fabric halfway between 5
and 6 at point 7.
 Bring your needle down at 8 and repeat the stitching sequence.

Cloud Filling Stitch

Uses: Filling in spaces

 Lay a groundwork of small, evenly spaced vertical stitches, alternating the placement
of the stitches as shown in the diagram.
 Weave your thicker secondary thread through the network of stitches in rows.
 When starting from the right, thread the needle under the first vertical stitch, then
bring tour needle through the vertical stitch to the lower right. Next, thread your
needle under the next vertical stitch to the upper right. Continue stitching in a zig-zag
motion to the end of the row.
 Work the next row in the opposite direction.

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 Feather Stitch
Uses: Decorative border edges, seam embellishment, foliage and stems.

 Work vertically, from top to bottom.

 Bring needle up at 1 and back down to right
at 2, leaving a loop on the front.
 Bring the needle back up at 3 and pull thread
to shape loop as desired.
 Insert the needle to the right of 4 at 5, leaving
a loop of thread on the front.
 Bring needle up at 6 and pull thread to shape loop.
 Take next stitch to the left and continue stitching.
 To finish, take a small stitch over the last loop.

Lazy Daisy Stitch (Detached Chain Stitch)

Uses: Stitch in a circle to create flowers, single stitches can be leaves.

Similar to the chain stitch, but the loops

are “detached” instead of connecting.

 Come up at 1 and back down in the same

hole or right next to point 1, forming a loop
on the front side.
 Bring needle up at 2 and pull thread to
shape loop into desired shape. Pulling tighter creates a straighter looking stitch,
while a looser thread creates a more rounded loop.

Fly Stitch
Uses: Stitch in rows for edging or singly for
accents, plants and foliage, decorative
lines, interesting filling.

 Bring needle up at 1 and down at 2,

leaving a loop.

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 Come up at 3 and with the needle over the loop, pull the thread to shape a V.
 Go down at 4 to anchor the V shape.

Seed Stitch
Uses: Filling spaces, flower centers, background textures like leaves, snow and
sand.

Two small straight stitches side by side

and randomly placed to fill an area.

 Come up at 1 and down at 2.

 Come up at 3 and down at 4.
 Continue grouping stitches together randomly and at different angles to look like they
are scattered like seeds.

French Knot
Uses: Decorative dots, filling flower centers, leaves, plants, eyes.

 Bring needle up at 1.
 Hold thread taut with other hand and
wrap the thread twice around end of the
needle.
 Gently pull the thread so that the
wrapped threads tighten and while
holding it taut, insert the needle next to 1.
Pull thread through onto the backside until the knot is formed and lies securely on
the surface.

Bullion Knot
Uses: Decorative dots, leaves, plants

The Bullion Knot is very similar to the

French Knot, but you loop the thread
around the needle more times, producing

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 a worm of a knot that is inserted a slight distance from the needle’s original entry
point.

 Make a back stitch, the length of the bullion knot required.

 Bring the needle out at 1, but do not bring it out all the way.
 Twist the thread around the needle point, as many times as is necessary to equal the
length of the back stitch.
 Holding the left thumb on the coiled thread, turn the needle back to 1 and insert it in
the same place. Pull the thread through until the bullion knot lies flat.

Colonial Knot

Uses: Use alone as decorative accents, or stitch close together to form lines and or
fill in shapes.

 Bring need up through fabric and wrap the

thread up, over and behind the needle
forming a figure 8 around the needle.
 Insert the tip of the needle back through
the fabric, close to where it first came up, but not in the same hole. Pull the thread
carefully until a knot is formed, then push the needle to the back and pull the thread
through.

Star Stitch
Uses: Decorative accents, stars, flowers,
in a row for a border, disperse randomly
for loose filling or stitch close together for
denser filling.

 Starting at the top, bring the needle up at

1 and down to the center at 2.
 Bring the needle up at 3 and down to
center at 2.
 Continue stitching in a clockwise direction

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 until you have 8 evenly placed stitches to create a star.
Satin Stitch
Uses: Solid filling for shapes, great for
monograms

 Bring needle up at 1, down at 2, then

back up right next to 1 and down right
next to 2.
 Place stitches closely together to fill in
area.
 Be sure the thread lays flat and without any twisting to produce a smooth look.

Padded Satin Stitch

Uses: Solid filling for shapes.

 Stitch a cluster of seed stitches.

 Stitch the satin stitch over to create a
beautiful raised look.

Long and Short Stitch

Uses: Filling of larger shapes especially when color shading is desired.

 First work a row of alternating long and short Satin Stitches. Keep the upper edge of
the design line even.
 Next work a second row of long even
length stitches into the short stitches of
the first row, passing the needle through
the tip of the stitch above.
 Continue stitching rows until the shape
is nearly filled and the last row of long
stitches are worked along the bottom of the design line.
 Stitch the last row with short stitches to fill in the open area along the bottom.

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Types of Needle used to swing Different fabrics
Select the type of needle based on the textile construction (i.e knit vs woven), and
the needle size is determined by the thickness of the thread and the weight of the
fabric used for swing.

There are two needle sizing system: American and European. American Needle
sizes range from 8 to 19, and European sizes range from 60 to 120. Higher the
number, larger the blade of the needle.

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Commonly used needles for Embroidery and their uses as below:-

Needle Fabric Sizes Description

Uses
Machine For 70/10 – Machine embroidery needles have a larger
Embroidery embroidery 90/14 eye and specially designed scarf that
protects the thread against breaking or
shredding, even when stitching dense
designs. Use for machine embroidery with
rayon, acrylic or specialty threads.

Metallic For use 80/12 Metallic needles are designed especially for
with use with metallic threads. This needle
metallic features an even larger eye than the
threads embroidery needle, a fine shaft and a sharp
point to prevent thread breakage and
shredding. It has a special, large-groove
scarf designed to protect the thread and to
prevent skipped stitches. It’s also ideal for
use with monofilament thread.

Determining the Right Needle for a Thread

Here’s a quick way to determine if the thread and the sewing machine needles
are compatible:
1. Take half a metre of the thread being used on the machine and thread it
through the eye of a loose needle.
2. Hold the thread vertically with the needle at the top.
 If the needle is too big, it will drop to the bottom of the thread
 If the needle is too small, it will stick at the top of the thread
 If the needle is the right size, it will slowly spiral to the bottom of the thread

However, a larger-than-normal needle may have to be used to penetrate

thicker fabric, or stitch over the top of pronounced or bulky seams.

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Embroidery Defects

Poor Registration

DESCRIPTION: Where the stitches and design elements do not line up correctly.
The embroidery sewing process sews different colors at different times. If the fabric
shifts while one color is being sewn, then poor registration will occur when the next
color is sewn. Sometimes it is difficult to tell the
difference between poor registration, poor digitizing, and
fabric “grin-through” or “gapping” due to thread “pull”.
SOLUTIONS: Generally can be corrected by: 1)
Digitizing properly (using appropriate underlay stitches);
and 2) Hooping properly (using correct backing to
prevent excessive material flagging).

Fabric Grin Through or Gapping

DESCRIPTION: Where the fabric is seen through the
embroidery design either in the middle of the pattern or
on the edge.
SUGGESTED SOLUTIONS: Generally, can be
corrected by: 1) Digitizing properly (Using appropriate
underlay stitches, increasing stitch density, using
different fill stitch pattern or direction, or compensating
for “Pull” of thread by overlapping fill and satin border
stitches); and 2) Using appropriate topping.

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Missed Trim
DESCRIPTION: Where threads are left on the
embroidery pattern between images or lettering.
Thread trims are digitized when changing colors
and when moving from one location to another
using “jump” stitches.
SOLUTIONS: Generally, can be corrected by: 1) Digitizing properly (Using
appropriate number of trims, using appropriate tie off stitches, or replacing trimming
knives when necessary); and 2) Hand trimming the missed trims using trimming
snips.

Bunching at Corners
DESCRIPTION: Where the corners of lettering or
shapes are not sharp and crisp but are bunched up
or distorted. Usually caused by too much thread in
the corners due to poor digitizing. This includes: 1)
Not using appropriate stitch selection , 2) Not using
“Short” stitches in corner, and 3) Poor stitch balance
– thread too loose.
SOLUTIONS: Generally, can be corrected by digitizing properly: 1) Using
appropriate stitch selection, and 2) Using “short” stitch cornering, and 3) Correcting
stitch balance. American & Efird, Inc. 2002.

Poor Stitch Balance

DESCRIPTION: where white bobbin thread shows on the
topside of the embroidery. Ideally, the needle thread should
be held on the underside of the seam, and not ever be
pulled up to the topside. Proper stitch balance can be
checked on the underneath or backing side of the
embroidery by looking for 2/3 needle thread to 1/3 bobbin
thread on Satin stitches.

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SUGGESTED SOLUTIONS: Generally, can be corrected by: 1) Using quality
embroidery needle thread, 2) Using quality pre-wound bobbins, and 3) Setting
machine thread tensions correctly.

Fabric Damage –
Needle Holes
DESCRIPTION: Where the fabric is damaged around the corners of the embroidery.
Caused by: 1) Not using the correct type and size of needle; 2) Putting too many
stitches in the same location; and 3) Not tearing of backing properly, allowing the
fabric to be damaged as the stitches are pulled out.
SOLUTIONS: Generally, can be corrected by: 1) Digitizing properly; 2) Reducing the
stitch count in the corners; 3) Using the correct type and size of needle; and 3) Using
a ball point needle as small as possible.

Embroidery Too Thick

DESCRIPTION: Where the embroidery is too thick and uncomfortable which can be
caused by too high of a stitch density or not using the correct backing for the
application.
SUGGESTED SOLUTIONS: Generally, can be corrected by: 1) Digitizing properly
(Using appropriate stitch selection, using fewer stitches, and using “short” stitches on
corners); 2) Making sure stitch is balanced properly; 3) Using smaller thread size;
and 4) Using the correct backing (Using correct type and weight).

Poor Coverage – Poor Stitch Density

DESCRIPTION: Where the stitch density is not thick enough and you can see
through the embroidery stitching.
SOLUTIONS: Generally, can be corrected by: 1) Digitizing properly (Using
appropriate stitch selection, using more stitches, and using underlay stitches); and 2)
Using appropriate backing & topping.

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Poor Hooping

DESCRIPTION: Where the fabric around the

embroidery looks distorted and does not lay flat.
SOLUTIONS: Generally, can be corrected by: 1)
Using appropriate backing & topping, 2) Making
sure sewing operators hoop the garment properly
without stretching the fabric too much prior to
putting it in the hoop, and 3) Pressing or steaming
hoop marks.

 Maintenance of Embroidery machines

 Handle materials, machinery, equipment and tools safely and correctly

 Use correct lifting and handling procedures
 Use materials to minimize waste
 Maintain a clean and hazard free working area
 Maintain tools and equipment
 Carry out running maintenance within agreed schedules
 Carry out maintenance and/or cleaning within one’s responsibility
 Report unsafe equipment and other dangerous occurrences
 Ensure that the correct machine guards are in place
 Work in a comfortable position with the correct posture
 Use cleaning equipment and methods appropriate for the work to be carried
out.
 Dispose of waste safely in the designated location
 Store cleaning equipment safely after use
 Carry out cleaning according to schedules and limits of responsibility

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  Safety Measures
 When in doubt, ask the instructor.
 Report any injuries or accidents immediately to the instructor. Also, Report
any breakage to a tool or m/c to the instructor. If the equipment does not
operate properly, notify the supervisor immediately.
 Wipe up any oil spilled on the floor immediately to prevent anyone from
slipping. Keep aisles clear at all times.
 Operate only the machines you have been trained to operate and when the
instructor or supervisor/ assistant is present.
 Operate machines only with permission.
 Always inspect the m/c before starting to work. Be sure it is clean and
threaded correctly, with no loose threads on the pulley belt and all guards in
place.
 Make only adjustments you have been trained to perform
 When sewing on a power m/c, wear low shoes & close-fitting clothing. Avoid
loose fitting sleeves, sweaters, jewellery, ties, and ribbons when operating the
machine. If your hair is long, tie it back.
 Always practice proper posture to reduce fatigue, help prevent accidents and
increase efficiency. If possible, adjust the chair height so that your feet rest
flat on the floor.
 Do not pull your chair forward or toward while operating the machine.
 Use both hands to raise & lower the machine head.
 Always keep your head above the table.
 Keep your feet off the treadle when you are setting or threading the needle.
 Turn off and unplug the machine when you are away from it for more than
few minutes.

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